BajaNomad

Towing Toyhaulers, 5ers, and Trailers on Dirt Roads

ElFaro - 3-13-2010 at 07:07 PM

One of these days I'd like to take my toyhauler trailer out to some semi-remote locations (e.g. Gonzaga, Tortugas, Ascension, San Juanico, etc.) but I'm hesitant to drive long distances on dirt roads. Our 2006 Toyhauler trailer has never had a motorized vehicle inside nor will it ever. We use it strictly as our Baja home and the truck for camping, fishing, kayaking, inflatable, gear, etc.

I'd like to know who has towed their 5th wheel, trailer, or toyhauler on long dirt roads out to the Pacific or Gulf and back out again and if you suffered any structural or mechanical issues with your 5th wheel, trailer, or toyhauler as a result?

What other things went wrong after towing on the dirt roads? (e.g. dust, items inside knocked down and scattered about. Anything that may have fell off or broken off the trailer?)

Would you do it again?

Any tips you would recommend B4 hitting the dirt road?

This question is specific...I'm not interested in the effects of dirt roads on campers, utility trailers, boat trailers, motorhomes, or Mobiles that were towed in past decades or conjecture/opinion on the subject. Just info from people who have actually "lived through it". Thanks

Diver - 3-13-2010 at 09:57 PM

We have towed our 24' camp trailer all over creation including 4 round trips to Asuncion.
The first few hundred miles on dirt, I went slow and the camper did fine.
Later when I pushed the speed a few times (and the one time the trailer "got air" with Shari as witness), it finally started to show the affects.
When I hauled a few bales of hay to Asuncion inside the camper, a few of the cabinet doors fell off (screws were too short).
Now it's a challenge to level as the frame has a nice 2" bow from from to rear.
But it doesn't leak and everything still works and its a 1995 camper and ... it's Baja !!
If you don't go; you won't know !!
.

[Edited on 3-14-2010 by Diver]

Doug/Vamonos - 3-15-2010 at 08:44 PM

I have a 22' Warrior Toybox that has been all around Baja. In my opinion, the Warriors (not the recent lite models) are built pretty tough, much tougher than regular campers since they're designed to carry a couple thousand pounds of dune buggies or motorcycles. Mine has two 35 gallon fuel tanks with pump, and I usually load it up with camping equipment and a dirt bike or two, and 130 gallons of water. I've towed it to Punta Chivato several times and to Geckos many times, where it lives now. You have to go slow if the dirt gets rough. No two ways about it. Just a couple miles an hour, or you'll start vibrating stuff apart. In my case, the wood screws that mount the microwave always came loose and some other misc. parts. Structurally, it always held up. No frame problems, no spring or axle problems, and no siding problems I could find. Like I said, you have to slow down when it is rough or bumpy, mostly because if you don't all the neat stuff you brought along with you will be strewn all over the place. The trailer makes camping magnitudes better. Definitely have two spare tires ready to go. Absolutely have good tires and inflate them to max pressure because you WILL have a blowout at some time. It just happens, and when it does it can tear stuff apart.

dean miller - 3-16-2010 at 05:40 AM

We have a very old Roust-a-bout 13 foot trailer which we have used off road in Baja for about 20 plus years. Lots of repairs and replacements to just about all systems.

* Six leaf springs -- rather than 3 leaf
* Springs under the axle
( have had the springs replaced 2 times)
* Tire size increased 3 sizes
* Wheel well cut out for larger tires
*Water tank repaired
* Water system replaced with marine system
* Dual batteries
* Lots of interior lights
* Dual propane tanks
* Rear rack for storage

The major problems we have faced is the dust, and constant vibrations causing fitting, screws to work loose; always tightened with a coat of loc-tite which solved the problem.

On our last trip the food storage shelf worked loose...There will always be something to tighten, repair or replace, but the adventure is worth it...or at least we think it is.

sdm

Bob and Susan - 3-16-2010 at 06:15 AM

tires are the "weakest link"

a 2006 trailer probably has 7 year old tires on it

remember to look at the date codes
age kills tires

get high load rated tires

bajabass - 3-16-2010 at 06:34 AM

Quote:
Originally posted by Bob and Susan
tires are the "weakest link"

a 2006 trailer probably has 7 year old tires on it

remember to look at the date codes
age kills tires

get high load rated tires
100% correct! Learn how to check date codes on tires. I own a tire-front end shop, and the majority of tires gone bad are more than 5 years old, dry-rotted and/or damaged. I hear horror stories about people losing one tire at a time, until they have replaced them all. Can ruin a trip real quick! I still see tires from the 90's all the time:no:

dean miller - 3-16-2010 at 08:14 AM

Always cover the tires from the UV rays especially in SoCal; LA Orange and SD counties...Seems to reduce the side wall cracking.

BajaBass is the Brave Bull still going strong in Orange? Great place-- devoted to bull fighting.

sdm

ElFaro - 3-16-2010 at 10:46 AM

Dean, Diver, Doug...

Thanks much for your input...I'd like to hear more from others on what they experienced good and bad from long haul towing on Baja dirt roads.

My toyhauler is a 2006 Warrior "Superlite" 24'. Granted it is made with the lighter frame but I compensate for not hauling much more than personal effects inside. Mine has a 20 gal. gas tank in the rear I use for my outboard fuel and onboard generator and two 50 gal. water tanks. Even though the GVW of the hauler is 7500 lbs. we don't load it above about 6000 lbs. I did a "spring over" (mostly because the hauler came with "drop axles") to give me some reasonable ground clearance for the "U" bolts. One thing I never do is put cans or heavy objects in the upper cabinets because they act like hammers bouncing up and down on the roads. I do carry 2 xtra leaf spring sets because I snapped a leaf spring in half once in Baja on another trailer.

dean miller - 3-16-2010 at 03:48 PM

ElFaro
"I do carry 2 xtra leaf spring sets because I snapped a leaf spring in half once in Baja on another trailer"
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Seems to be pandemic when you travel on Baja "roads," especially if there is an off road componet to your travels.

I have discovered that springs are considerably less expensive to be repaired or replaced in Baja.. They are masters at Mexineering spring repairs.

sdm

BajaWarrior - 3-16-2010 at 04:00 PM

I use to travel to Punta Cabras (approx. 16 miles off road round trip from pavement) with my 25' Toyhauler a few times during the summer and also to San Antonio del Mar (Colonet). Just take it easy and you'll keep it in one piece.

ElFaro - 3-16-2010 at 04:35 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by BajaWarrior
I use to travel to Punta Cabras (approx. 16 miles off road round trip from pavement) with my 25' Toyhauler a few times during the summer and also to San Antonio del Mar (Colonet).


You don't anymore? Why? Do you have a permanent home down south or did you get tired of towing the hauler or ...? Just curious...

BajaWarrior - 3-16-2010 at 05:06 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by ElFaro
Quote:
Originally posted by BajaWarrior
I use to travel to Punta Cabras (approx. 16 miles off road round trip from pavement) with my 25' Toyhauler a few times during the summer and also to San Antonio del Mar (Colonet).


You don't anymore? Why? Do you have a permanent home down south or did you get tired of towing the hauler or ...? Just curious...


Yes, we have a vacation home 25 miles south of San Felipe for fall, winter, and early summer. For the three months remaining we have use of a home in La Bocana de Santo Tomas (that I built 15 years ago and sold 11 years ago but now get to use as if our own, heading there in two weeks for 3 nights, then over the mountains on HWY 3 to San Felipe for 6 nights).

We still use the ToyHauler for in between trips to the Southern Ca. deserts for ATV riding (like this past weekend to Superstition) and a few trips mid to late summer to Lake Havasu to use our PWC's (Jet ski's). Yes, we have jobs too! I will always own a form of RV but like ToyHaulers most.

Maderita - 3-17-2010 at 02:50 AM

Quote:

Any tips you would recommend B4 hitting the dirt road?

El Faro,
Last year, I built the suspension of a heavy 4-horse bumper pull trailer, specifically to haul horses and equipment over dirt roads in the mountains of northern Baja.

I can make a few suggestions. You didn't note some specs on your trailer, such as # of axles, bumper pull vs. 5th wheel, leaf springs vs. torsion axles, etc.

I "flipped" my straight axles (mounting the axles under the leaf springs) for an additional 6" (approx.) of ground clearance. The longer the trailer, the more ground clearance that is needed at the front and rear, when going over bumps and dips.
My tandem axles w/ electric brakes required welding new spring perches onto the axle tubes.

I had seen some cheesy bolt-on shock kits for trailers w/ skimpy shocks. Never saw a big trailer with offroad shocks, so I dreamed up a plan to meet my needs. Trailering is stressful for horses even on paved roads, so I wanted to cushion the ride as much as possible.

With that in mind, I welded shock mounts to each axle tube and to the trailer crossmembers. Then I installed 4 KYB monotube gas shocks which are known for their stiff valving. I needed to control a heavy trailer w/ heavier cargo on short trailer springs. If I had it to do over, I would not have chosen KYB's; only because of their metric sleeves fused to the rubber bushings which created installation hassles.

Next I added Equa-Flex tandem-axle equalizers which are designed to absorb shock from being transmitted from the suspension to the frame. I found a pair on eBay for half price, yet they are worth the invstment at full retail price. http://www.trailair.com/products/equaflex/

Having worked on trailer axles before, I've seen how badly (and dangerously) the cheap $.50 nylon sleeves wear out, causing metal-to-metal contact and errosion of the shackle/hanger bolts. Sure enough, upon disassembly, my well used trailer had some bolts which were 50% worn through. Mind you, these are the bolts that keep the axles and wheels on the trailer! I installed a "wet bolt" kit ($46) which has brass sleeves/bushings and drilled bolts. The bolts have zirc grease fittings for easy lubrication of the sleeves. After doing that, I'd say, "The cost-cutting nylon sleeve system should be outlawed."
http://www.trailair.com/products/equaflex/pricing.php

It took a good deal of labor, though the job was not particularly technical. A big driveway and MIG welder were needed, as well as friend's dedication to my project. The results are phenomenal. I've ridden in the trailer, and hung off the side to watch the suspension articulate. Conventional trailer suspensions ride harshly. This suspension is far smoother.

The trailer resides on a ranch, 25 miles from the nearest asphalt. One year later, it has made numerous trips, hauling horses and cattle to the desert. So far, it is proving to be tough enough for Baja.

[Edited on 3-17-2010 by Maderita]

ElFaro - 3-18-2010 at 12:13 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by Maderita
Quote:

I can make a few suggestions. You didn't note some specs on your trailer, such as # of axles, bumper pull vs. 5th wheel, leaf springs vs. torsion axles, etc.

I "flipped" my straight axles (mounting the axles under the leaf springs) for an additional 6" (approx.) of ground clearance. The longer the trailer, the more ground clearance that is needed at the front and rear, when going over bumps and dips.
My tandem axles w/ electric brakes required welding new spring perches onto the axle tubes.

Having worked on trailer axles before, I've seen how badly (and dangerously) the cheap $.50 nylon sleeves wear out, causing metal-to-metal contact and errosion of the shackle/hanger bolts. Sure enough, upon disassembly, my well used trailer had some bolts which were 50% worn through. Mind you, these are the bolts that keep the axles and wheels on the trailer! I installed a "wet bolt" kit ($46) which has brass sleeves/bushings and drilled bolts. The bolts have zirc grease fittings for easy lubrication of the sleeves. After doing that, I'd say, "The cost-cutting nylon sleeve system should be outlawed."
http://www.trailair.com/products/equaflex/pricing.php

[Edited on 3-17-2010 by Maderita]


Maderita...thanks much for the info/tips.

My toyhauler is an '06 Warrior "Superlite" 2-axle bumber pull.

You and I know too well Hwy 1 and dirt roads hammer the hell out of the shackle/spring hanger bolts and sleeves. Mine came with nylon sleeves and bolts with "press fit" zerk fittings...(basic "tow off the lot after sale" parts).

I plan to put on a "Dexter Axle Kit". These kits last at least 3X longer than the factory junk and can take serious pounding! They are brass bushings and threaded zerk end fittings. The challange for me is to get the trailer box jacked and blocked up properly.

I've had to replace alot of "just put on enough to get it off the sales lot grade" items with higher quality parts due to the severity of how Baja treats one's trailer.

dean miller - 3-18-2010 at 04:13 PM

Any time the repair or replacement allows always up grade to a larger stronger part.

I have discovered that I like the marine quality parts where ever they will fit or fit with modifications.

The ease of repair and replacement should also be a consideration-- either by your self or with assistance or a lot of Mexineering..

sdm

Maderita - 3-19-2010 at 12:55 AM

El Faro,
Oh, if you have DEXTER axles and suspension, then from what I understand, their dimensions are unique to the brand. Scratch the Trailair Equa-Flex equalizers. The spacing of the spring hangers, distance between axles, and the equalizer width (hole to hole) are Dexter vs. every other manufacturer.

I presume that you are talking about getting the Dexter "Heavy Duty Suspension Kit"?
http://i.b5z.net/i/u/1080235/f/parts_kit_cat_8-08/Suspension...

The wet bolts, bronze sleeves, and shackles are a great upgrade. Before you commit, you might think about replacing your equalizers with Dexter EZ-Flex shock absorbing equalizers:
http://www.dexteraxle.com/e_z_flex_equalizers
I have never seen the EZ-Flex in action, but have held them in my hands. They look well made and heavy duty. I've also heard good reports.

You should be able to find the exact kit for your trailer, complete w/ wet bolts, and EZ-Flex equalizers. It will take some careful parts matching to get it right. Dexter has both 33' and 35" axle spacing.

If you are in the San Diego area, the guys at Aros Trailer/John Deere in El Cajon have always been knowledgeable, helpful, and willing to mix & match parts for me. As of a year ago, they stocked the Dexter parts.
http://www.arostrailersupplies.com/shop/

Good luck on your project. Let us know how it turns out.

[Edited on 3-19-2010 by Maderita]

mtgoat666 - 3-19-2010 at 05:27 AM

I find it very funny that trailers for hauling off-road toys are built so poorly that they cannot be driven on unpaved roads without damage :lol::lol:

Likewise, it's funny that many RVs and trailers are sold to people with marketing message that the vehicles allow you to get out in the wilderness,... but you better bring your tools along to repair all the damage if you try to drive an unpaved roadway :lol::lol:

Doug/Vamonos - 3-23-2010 at 09:00 PM

I would not spend all that money on replacing parts just yet. Where exactly are you planning to tow? And how fast? I also flipped my axles...and never looked at them again. Other than greasing the springs on occasion, I have done absolutely nothing to my trailer. And it has done plenty of offroading with a hefty load. Just SLOW down when in the dirt, especially when it is rutted out. It's simple. Your trailer will be fine. Especially since you say you are loading it lightly. Worry more about tires than your frame. Ummm....unless something actually breaks...then ignore what I said!