Originally posted by landyacht318
Many factors contribute to whether a particular surf spot will have many people out, or none. In addition to what BajaGeoff said about swell
directions, the tide can have huge effects on some locations. A new moon or full moon is about when the tidal swing is the largest(usually a day
after).
Some locations will love a real low tide, some work better on a high tide, some can work through any tide. Some spots are better on an outgoing tide,
most are better on an upcoming.
Shifting sands can also make or break a certain location.
After the presence or lack of ground/wind swell, what might be the biggest factor in whether you see surfers out or not, is the wind. Wind blowing
from land to sea, is good. It make the waves clean and break in a barrelling/ tubular fashion, if the bottom contours allow.
No wind is also good.
Strong NW winds, or any onshore direction, will make many surfbreaks choppy, with whitecaps depending on the strength. It makes riding waves much
less pleasurable. Early in the morning is usually when the wind is lightest, and can, but not always provide the best conditions for surfing.
Many non surfers believe that strong local winds make for good surfing. It is strong winds a great distance (500 to 10,000 miles)away from land which
create long period ground swells and provide the groomed, well traveled energy which makes the best waves for surfing.
What makes surfing the most pleasurable is trading/ sharing waves with your friends. What makes surfing the least pleasurable are crowds of greedy
narcissists. Surfing in crowded conditions would nearly be akin to getting ready to take a swing at a golf ball, and some yahoo comes running up and
smacks it on your back swing. Or when fishing having another boat dropping anchor right next to you. Or having a lover defiled in front of you.
Imagine anything , relatively solitary, that you enjoy to do, and have it ruined by the presence of others. Perhaps they are a good and respectful
people, but would it not be better if they were good and respectful somewhere else? If the others have no respect or any otherwise desirable
character attributes, then it is difficult to not be overwhelmingly angry at their presence. We surfers realize we are our own worst enemies.
Crowds in Surfing are incredibly frustrating, and why emotions can get so high when one cannot escape them, especially when going to great lengths to
do so, then finding that many others have the same Idea/location in mind, and bring their 'at home' attitude with them.
When a surfer has had all the conditions come together- swell, wind, tide, time, remote location, and friends to share it with, it is simply magical
experience, and that location forever becomes etched in that person's conscious.
When one hopes to repeat this experience, and finds all the conditions come together, except there are 150 others there, and then seeing it advertised
online, well it is enough to cause some surfers to verbally attack DavidK, rationally or not.
[Edited on 4-13-2010 by landyacht318] |