BajaNomad - Locking Rear Differential?

Locking Rear Differential?

MitchMan - 4-14-2010 at 12:46 PM

Is a locking rear differential a necessity for driving or pulling a boat and trailer on sandy beaches in baja?

Does anybody know what years Toyota 4x4s (4 cyl) pickups or 4x4 (4 cyl) Tacomas started having a locking rear differential as a stock feature (if at all)?

Same question for 6 cyl 4x4s Toyota pickups and Tacomas?

[Edited on 4-14-2010 by MitchMan]

Neal Johns - 4-14-2010 at 01:13 PM

Not stock, my V6 Manual '99 Tacoma had a full electric in the rear with the 4x4 TRD package as does my '93.
Beach sand? Well if one wheel hits a spot with more traction (likely) it will help.

Solution: Become an Aridologist and camp in the interior! :lol:

tripledigitken - 4-14-2010 at 02:29 PM

Mitch,

I had a 1991 SR5 4 by 4 auto, the locking diff's were not available that year.

Ken

DonBaja - 4-14-2010 at 04:22 PM

IMO having a locked up diff is not the most important thing. Airing down your tires is the most important when driving or towing in the sand. A regular not locked up 4x4 with the tires aired down to 8 lbs will go places that you wouldn't think possible.

David K - 4-14-2010 at 06:35 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by DonBaja
IMO having a locked up diff is not the most important thing. Airing down your tires is the most important when driving or towing in the sand. A regular not locked up 4x4 with the tires aired down to 8 lbs will go places that you wouldn't think possible.

This is good advice on Baja beach sand (Cortez side) where the sand is mixed with ground shells and coral... bottomless.

With lockers both front and rear, or traction control (limited slip), you may not need to air down, but on my '01 and '05 Tacomas (with the rear locker) I had to air down for the beach.

The rear locker only works in low range, and that low torque can bury you very easily.

I found 4WD high range, and 10-15 psi to work great in deep sand.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

My '10 Tacoma with TRAC (limited slip all 4 tires) in H4 (and A-TRAC in L4) did not need the tires to be deflated on my first beach run last New Years at Bahia Santa Maria... It was amazing.

Photos taken by BajaRob in front of his home.

I turned off the TRAC to see how the old 4WD (open differentials) did with tires at 32 psi, and I soon became stuck. By turning the traction control (A-TRAC) back on, I drove right out without any digging or deflating the tires... a truely amazing feature! :bounce:

Jaybo - 4-14-2010 at 07:23 PM

There are also locking differential kits to put in the truck you already own - ARB air lockers are a really nice unit and work great.

http://www.arbusa.com/Products/Air-Lockers/10.aspx

Maderita - 4-16-2010 at 03:11 AM

Quote:

Is a locking rear differential a necessity for driving or pulling a boat and trailer on sandy beaches in baja?

MitchMan,
There are a number of variables which make your question difficult to answer.

I can say that a rear locking differential will increase your truck's advantage, and by a significant amount. Adding another locking diff to the front will further increase the advantage. That advantage could be a necessity given certain conditions: very soft sand, slow speed, starting from a dead stop, backing up, going uphill, tight turns, etc.

If you have a light boat and trailer, such as <2,000 lbs, then you should be able to tow over flat beach sand, without a locking diff. Ideally, you would maintain a speed of 15+ mph and not stop while on soft sand. If you have to stop, try to plan it so that you are pointing slightly downhill, giving room to get your speed up when restarting. Plan ahead, even if that means getting out and walking to preview the route.

As mentioned, tire pressure is a huge factor. So is tire size and engine power/torque. 8 psi is pushing the envelope for a 4,000 lb. vehicle. Unless you have beadlock wheels, you risk popping a tire off the bead, and losing all air pressure. That is no fun to deal with in the sand and requires knowledge, tools and air to fix. 8 psi might also result in "rim cut" damage to the tires as the sidewall collapses and folds on itself.
Some tires bulge/mushroom better than others (desireable). Some tires tend to fold/crease when deflated too much. 10 to 12 psi would be a safer bet. If stuck, decreasing to 8 psi for a short distance might get you unstuck. Think of that 2 to 4 psi as your last "insurance policy" to get unstuck.

Remember to air down the trailer tires as it will decrease the rolling resistance of the trailer.

Driving technique is as important as the equipment/vehicle.
My preference when driving sand is to be in a lower gear, turning 3,000+ rpm. That's where you have the power and throttle response should you start to sink into the soft stuff. Along those same lines, I would choose low range, where the torque to the wheels is multiplied. If you start off in a gear that is too high (manual transmission) and have to downshift, then you will lose momentum rapidly.

Turning your front wheels at slow speed in the sand is like throwing out an anchor. If the tires start to dig in, make sure to straighten out the front wheels. If starting from a stop, always point the wheels straight ahead.

If forward momentum stops, get off the throttle immediately. So often I see drivers bury the vehicle to the axles, making extraction more difficult.

Unless you have a Jeep club with you, a good rule is to stay above the high tide line. Don't be tempted to drive on the benign looking tidal flats near San Felipe.
Buenas suerte.

durrelllrobert - 4-16-2010 at 09:34 AM

Locking Rear Differential?
I'm sure that's what my ex-wife had :lol:

Barry A. - 4-16-2010 at 10:15 AM

Maderita------------All excellent advice, and completely covered, I am thinking. Welcome to the board--------

Barry

Maderita - 4-16-2010 at 11:09 AM

Thanks Barry.

MitchMan,
Another tip: radial tires on your boat trailer will "float" on top of the sand with less rolling resistance than bias ply tires, which tend to dig in. Chosing a wider tread section will give an advantage too.

Look for a wider size, such as, ST225/75R. The ST designates Special Trailer tire, the 225 is the section width in mm, the 75 is the profile or aspect ratio (sidewall height to section width), the "R" designates radial ply. Hopefully, you have 14" or 15" diameter wheels on the trailer. You don't want skinny "pizza cutter" tires for the sand.

mtgoat666 - 4-16-2010 at 11:12 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by MitchMan
Is a locking rear differential a necessity for driving or pulling a boat and trailer on sandy beaches in baja?

well, some beaches are better than others. if you don't know how to judge strength/support of beach sediment, then I suggest you do your trailer launching at beaches where you see others doing launching, and follow examples of others.
you probably don't need lockers on a good beach, if you drive wisely.

if you are going to a poor beach where you are going to push things to limit,... well, you risk getting stuck, so bring an anchor and winch so you can pull yourself out before next high tide :lol:

Barry A. - 4-16-2010 at 11:50 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by mtgoat666

Quote:

Originally posted by MitchMan
Is a locking rear differential a necessity for driving or pulling a boat and trailer on sandy beaches in baja?

--------On all 3 of my 4x4's I always carry a trailer-hitch WARN winch (1 winch works on all 3 vehicles) which you can use both in front and in back from installed 2" receivers, and also a PULL PAL (anchor-like implement)------these are my insurance policies in case of the obvious-------getting stuck which happens rather often). This allows me to really get away from "the crowds" and camp in very remote areas and beaches. (or at least it used to--- I don't go anymore)/

Mr. Goat-------can you explain how you evaluate the "strength/support" characteristics of any given beach? That would be valuable for sure, but I never could master it. Maybe you can help me??

Barry

mtgoat666 - 4-16-2010 at 12:13 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Barry A.
Mr. Goat-------can you explain how you evaluate the "strength/support" characteristics of any given beach? That would be valuable for sure, but I never could master it. Maybe you can help me??
Barry

well, doing geotech/soil engineering for a living taught me :lol:

simple layman explanation: learn to see clues about grain size, grain angularity/rounding, cohesion, and water content.

For example, moist fine grain beaches with some amount of cohesion between grains are great for driving on. Driving on saturated sediment often difficult, can liquify (turn to unsupporting mud) beneath wheels or feet, and driving on really coarse beaches with no cohesion between grains is difficult (imagine driving thru rounded gravel/cobble beach where even your feet sink and gives your calf a workout).

Barry A. - 4-16-2010 at 03:38 PM

Ah ha--------thanks, Goat. That would explain why the course grain beaches of Baja tend to swallow tires, and the beaches of say, Coronado (fine grain), are like race-tracks most of the time. I always wondered about that.

Appreciate the explanation.

Barry

MitchMan - 4-16-2010 at 06:03 PM

There has been some really great advice given here. Much appreciated. It does sound like alot of elements and variables are involved in driving over sand.

To some it up, some of the techniques and utilities for driving on sand are to certainly have a 4x4 vehicle, consider deflating tires down to 12 -15 lbs (lower to 8 lbs with great caution only if absolutely necessary) and have an electric pump to reflate the tires, using radial tires 2 or 3 ply (use of wider tread is advisabe) and avoiding nobby, heavy treaded all terrain stiff sidewall type tires, employing positraction or limited slip rear differential can certainly help as can a rear locking differential, adding front locking differential can also be useful, maintaining momentum and a consistent moderate speed, if stopping on sand, try to stop on a downward grade, carry several 8 ft x 1 ft carpet strips, a shovel, towing straps or rope, and finally having a trailer hitch winch and a Pull Pal is good insurance.

I intend to do most if not all of these items (accept for the items that may be mutually exclusive).

Last August I took my son on a fishing excursion to fish Ceralvo island in La Paz and we got stuck and lost about a mile away from where we should have been on very soft sand with my 2.8L V6 S10 4x4 Chevy Blazer. We were there in 95 degree weather from 6 am to about 2pm without air conditioning. Not fun. Luckily I had good cell phone service. I called everyone I knew and the Los Planes police finally found us and pulled us out with his 4 banger 1985 4x4 Toyota pickup.

I am serious about doing everything necessary in the circumstances to properly deal with driving over sand. My Blazer had a fatal electrical problem and is being sent to the wrecking yard. I will be buying a Toyota 4 banger 4x4 within the next 30 days a year-model somewhere between 1986 to 1999 and will make sure that it will have front and back lockers.

[Edited on 4-17-2010 by MitchMan]

David K - 4-16-2010 at 08:29 PM

Right... you would only drop to 8 psi if 10 psi didn't work... and the high tide was closing in or you were late for dinner! The rear locker will most likely NOT be needed or used for the beach... as I mentioned before, it (the stock one) only works in low range... and that may dig you in worse.

I see you are getting advice over on the Tacoma forum, too...

Different beaches, different sand... The Cortez side is much harder to drive than the Pacific... which is almost like pavement once you are across any soft stuff getting to the tidal zone.

Good luck... and maybe practice your sand driving before pulling a boat over it.

MitchMan - 4-16-2010 at 09:55 PM

Good words, DavidK. Thanks all.

David K - 4-16-2010 at 10:42 PM

Let me know if you need anything else... I would seriously think about the V-6 over the 4 if pulling a boat is a focus of the truck... and of course, I love the newer, bigger, traction control gizmo'd Tacomas!

My first was a 2001, an extra cab, 2 door 4WD Off Road TRD and it was awesome... no problems... go go go. They got bigger in 2005 when a swapped up, plus I went from the extra cab to a 4 door double cab that year, so I appreciated the new 4.0 litre, 236 HP engine... swapped to a 2010 nearly identical to the '05 truck lst December, and have been blown away by the limited slip TRAC system and Active Traction Control (A-TRAC) system that became available in the 2009 Off Road TRD 4WD Tacoma.

durrelllrobert - 4-17-2010 at 09:08 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by MitchMan

Last August I took my son on a fishing excursion to fish Ceralvo island in La Paz and we got stuck and lost about a mile away from where we should have been on very soft sand with my 2.8L V6 S10 4x4 Chevy Blazer. We were there in 95 degree weather from 6 am to about 2pm without air conditioning. Not fun. Luckily I had good cell phone service. I called everyone I knew and the Los Planes police finally found us and pulled us out with his 4 banger 1985 4x4 Toyota pickup.

[Edited on 4-17-2010 by MitchMan]

I posted this before but in a real emergency you can use your starter motor to pull you out of sand when you are stuck. Just pull your spark plugs to eliminate compression(I always carry the wrench), put it in low gear and engage the starter. The large ratio between the starter gear and the teeth on the fly wheel (about 30 to 1) will pull you out and then you just reinstall the plugs and drive off. :light:

Barry A. - 4-17-2010 at 09:30 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by durrelllrobert

Quote:

Great idea, but this only works with a stick-shift veh., not an automatic-tranny veh., I believe .

I also use my winch (in the past) for pulling my loaded boat trailer back up the beach from the water to firm land when no other way is feasible.

Barry

Taco de Baja - 4-17-2010 at 10:55 AM

It was an option when I bought my 4-cyl 1996 Tacoma, so it goes back at least that far, not sure about the 1995.5 Tacoma.

For the pre-Tacoma pick-up trucks, there are several companies, like ARB, that made/make aftermarket lockers. I don't think Toyota offered a factory locker for the pre-Tacoma trucks.

Remember that sometimes a locker will dig you in deeper when traveling in sand, as a buddy found out in his 2000-something 2-wheel drive 4-Runner with a locker...He buried it so deep the vehicle was completely resting on the gas tank, transmission, exhaust and frame with the wheels spinning freely.... Major PITA to dig him out.

Barry A. - 4-17-2010 at 02:29 PM

To date, (knock on wood) I have never been really stuck in any kind of sand with my 2007 Nissan X-terra with an engaged factory elec. rear locker-----I have been stuck several times when the locker was turned off, but the engagement of the rear locker has always gotten me out (so far) without letting any more air out tho I normally run 25 lbs in the dirt/45 lbs on the hyway. I have 265 BFG TA tires all around.

I stay away from mud when possible so have little experience with it other than being horribly stuck in it from time to time (that is why I now have a winch and a pull-pal).

I have been stuck in sand with a normal 4x4 pickup with big tires (285's) and no locker many times, mostly on Baja Cortez-side beaches-------but letting the air down to say 12 lbs has always (so far) saved me. We are talking a pickup w/ 1000 lb camper in this case, and no trailer.

Just my personal experience, and take it for what you think it worth. :spingrin:

Barry

durrelllrobert - 4-18-2010 at 10:57 AM

Quote:

Toyota pickup.

[Edited on 4-17-2010 by MitchMan]

Great idea, but this only works with a stick-shift veh., not an automatic-tranny veh., I believe .
Barry

ABSOLUTELY CORRECT :bounce:

MitchMan - 4-20-2010 at 01:06 PM

After reading all the great helpful advice and comments on this thread and after researching hours and hours on the web, I have kind of narrowed it down to one of three rear differentials that I can afford: 1) Detroit TruTrac LSD? 2)Automatic PowerTrax No-Slip Lockers? 3)Toyota E-Lockers?

You guys know the Baja pretty well; after any rain you get the flooded streets of La Paz and Cabo and muddy dirt roads between the paved roads and the beaches , then when it's hot and dry you get the soft sandy beaches and rough dry dirt roads.

All things considered, which of the three above-mentioned differentials would be the best all-around choice for a 1st generation 4x4 4 cyl Tacoma?

[Edited on 4-20-2010 by MitchMan]

Taco de Baja - 4-20-2010 at 03:47 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by MitchMan
After reading all the great helpful advice and comments on this thread and after researching hours and hours on the web, I have kind of narrowed it down to one of three rear differentials that I can afford: 1) Detroit TruTrac LSD? 2)Automatic PowerTrax No-Slip Lockers? 3)Toyota E-Lockers?

You guys know the Baja pretty well; after any rain you get the flooded streets of La Paz and Cabo and muddy dirt roads between the paved roads and the beaches , then when it's hot and dry you get the soft sandy beaches and rough dry dirt roads.

All things considered, which of the three above-mentioned differentials would be the best all-around choice for a 1st generation 4x4 4 cyl Tacoma?

[Edited on 4-20-2010 by MitchMan]

I would go with the Toyota Locker, as you can choose when you want it locked, and when you don’t. However, that being said, if you want the factory Toyota E-locker to work anytime, you will also have to do the "grey-wire mod". Otherwise it will only work when the vehicle in is 4-Low. This is a fairly easy fix, but something to keep in mind. You can search for it on-line, but here is a quick write-up:

Tacoma Grey-wire Mod.

You may also have to get a donor rear axel-with the e-locker pre-installed, as I don't think you can just pop the factory e-locker into a non e-locker axel housing.....And that may make it as expensive as an other option you did not mention:

the ARB air locker.....

Maderita - 4-21-2010 at 01:38 AM

MitchMan,
If you take your time and hunt, then you might find a deal on a good used Toyota factory rear e-locker. Just make sure that it has the same gear ratio. Otherwise you will be changing a ring & pinion set, negating any possible savings. Unless you do the axle swap yourself, it is unlikley that you will save much money vs. purchasing an aftermarket locker.

A little research shows the Tacoma 1st gen = 1995-2004 model years, with an 8" (that's ring gear diameter) rear axle.
Aftermarket locking diffs for this should include the ARB "Air-Locker" and Detroit (Eaton Corp.) "Softlocker", per this link:
http://home.4x4wire.com/erik/diffs/#T100-Tundra

Both are on my top 3 list of durable/reliable units.
If you are not familiar with the ARB Air-Locker, they have been around a long time. Made in Australia. Requires a source of compressed air, usually an ARB pump mounted to the frame at additional cost. The pump can also be used for inflating tires with an added air fitting. A larger air tank can be mounted under the frame. "Onboard air" in a great addition to any offroad vehicle. It is activated by the flip on a switch, so you only use the locker when needed, thereby avoiding any undesireable characteristics on the highway. My 4x4 Ford E350 van has an ARB in the rear axle, 5 gallon air tank, with air fittings installed fore and aft. The only problem I've had, and heard of from others, is a loss of pressure from a leaking air line between the pump and the differential.

The Detroit Softlocker is a newer version of the Detroit Locker/TracTech or "No-Spin" which has been around for decades with high reliability and strength. It is a full-time locker. Can't be beat for it's offroad capability, but many would find it's quirky characteristics undesirable on the pavement. It chirps the tires on turns, makes loud clunks at odd times, and has torque steer (pulls to the side) when getting on or off the throttle. The Softlocker has the same performance with reportedly milder "side effects". I've owned a number of Detroit Lockers on a variety of vehicles, but never tried a Softlocker.

If Eaton Corp. is now making an E-Locker for the Toyota, I'd highly recommend it. It is part-time, electromagnetically engaged at the touch of a button. Impressed by the one in my Wrangler with a Ford 8.8" rear axle.
It is holding up to the abuse of 260 hp, 33" mud terrain tires, and jumping sand dunes with paddles.

None of those options comes cheap. Probably $600 to $900 + installation.
You mentioned the Detroit TruTrac Limited Slip. Why spend the money and not have a locking diff when you need it? It is better than a conventional open diff, but falls well short of the superiority of a locker.

The Richmond PowerTrax "No-Slip"/"Lock-Right" and Detroit "EZ Locker" are drop-in units that go into the existing carrier. This saves cost and makes installation easy. These "lunchbox lockers" are junk in my opinion. At least Eaton/Detroit admits they are for light/medium duty applications. They might be appropriate for a front axle, with occasional use, (and in your case a 4 cyl engine). If used in the rear axle, (or with high hp and/or big tires) it is a time bomb. When (notice I didn't say "if") it explodes, the metal shards will destroy the rest of your differential and bearings. Then you will have to pay out $1000-$2000 for being a cheapskate and not spending the additional $400 for a real locker the first time around! (been there, done that).
See there? I just saved you a thousand dollars or more! Now take the money and go get yourself a free locking diff. (Just trying to help, in case you need a way to rationalize the purchase).

durrelllrobert - 4-21-2010 at 10:21 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by whistler
On most late model manual tranny vehicles you have to depress the clutch before it will crank.You would have to disable this feature before it will work.

never had a late model tranny truck. my experiences getting stuck in desert were all with pre 70's trucks. now i'm a lazy auto guy that doesn't get stuck (in sand) :yes:

edm1 - 4-29-2010 at 08:24 PM

Maderita, welcome to the board. Excellent post. I'm adding you to my "must read" list; I know I and others will be learning a lot from you.

I got stuck alone with my dog in deep sand one July north of Bahia Sta Maria and I know the feeling. I had an ARB locker only in the rear dually axle of my 22-ft motorhome and didn't have a drive axle at the front (aka 2WD). Now, I have a Dana 60 up front with an ARB as well. The only drawback now is when locked, the front is more difficult to steer; it just wants to plow ahead. I can only imagine locking the front to prevent from or to get out of getting stuck so the front locker probably won't see many miles, but the miles it will see will be crucial.

Again, welcome to the board.

Art

[Edited on 4-30-2010 by edm1]

MitchMan - 5-1-2010 at 06:16 AM

Good post Maderita. Definitive, logical, knowledgeable and well written supported post is very helpful. Thanks.

classicbajabronco - 5-23-2010 at 03:56 PM

remember if you plan to air down, bring a pump so you can airback up before you hit the payment.

Don't give teh truck lots of gas when you start to move or you will spin your tires and sink.

Dont break hard of your front end will dive and create a big hole you will later need to climb out of.

I run a detroit locker in my 66 bronco and 8psi and I don't even need to put it in 4wd in the cortez sand.

David K - 5-23-2010 at 06:44 PM

Yah, it is mostly about air pressure in the sand... You see the local fishermen tending to their nets on Shell Island (north of Bahia Santa Maria where edm1 stuck his van) in 2WD pick ups. I know people who drove their huge Pace Arrow motor home out on that beach too... and it isn't 4WD... Air pressure is the key... Unless you have the new Toyota traction control (A-TRAC) set up, then perhaps not.

classicbajabronco - 5-23-2010 at 07:13 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by durrelllrobert

Quote:

what happens when you starter burns out and your still stuck in the sand? :?:

I guess this is when you jack up the rig and stuff that nasty ex-wife of yours in the hole you made spinning the tires :lol:

durrelllrobert - 5-25-2010 at 09:09 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by classicbajabronco
I guess this is when you jack up the rig and stuff that nasty ex-wife of yours in the hole you made spinning the tires :lol:

Hopefully she was under the tires the whole time :lol:

Baja12valve - 5-25-2010 at 09:26 AM

Edm1 has a very valid point, steering is a big issue with a front locker. With both wheels spinning at the same rate, your vehicle is difficult to steer. Front lockers work best in a straight line. Terrible in mud, snow or rain. I would not get a automatic locker for the rear. They will have a tendency to lock up as you go around a corner and if you are in a wet situation, you will easily spin out. A selectable locker is best.

David K - 5-25-2010 at 07:41 PM

Toyota's 'A-TRAC' has no steering issues, but creates locker-like traction when needed... and it comes from the factory.

classicbajabronco - 5-25-2010 at 08:37 PM

just throw in hydraulic assisted power steering and you will be able to turn that front locked axle easily....

Another great locking dif is the Ox locker. It is a manually activated locker that is actived with a cable. Very simple and very strong...correction: it is used in the australian outback...but made in the good ol' us of a

http://www.ox-usa.com/ox/

[Edited on 5-26-2010 by classicbajabronco]

[Edited on 5-26-2010 by classicbajabronco]

David K - 5-25-2010 at 08:45 PM

Alice Springs?