BajaNomad

MISION SANTA MARIA TRIP REPORT (PART 4 of 4)

David K - 6-6-2010 at 05:08 PM

Continued from Part 3:
http://forums.bajanomad.com/viewthread.php?tid=46087
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We follow Art’s motorhome over the ridge to the oasis that contains ‘The Bog’ where the road and the water are one.



Just before the bog begins we find Neal Johns’ camper with a serious problem, no rear wheel drive after the ring and pinion in the distributor has shattered.



Without four wheel drive, Neal will not be able to drive out on his own power. The weight of the camper compounds matters. Chris’ Dodge is powerful and he hooks up Neal to help him pull through the bog.




My Tacoma brings up the rear of our desert caravan.


The water is deep!








Steve brings the tow strap back for his 4Runner that needs a pull, as it doesn’t have a rear locker or off road tires. He did so well staying dry until the last palm tree ‘pushed him’ in!








Art’s 4WD motorhome is a beast!

Once we were all out of the bog and on level ground with room, we got to work trying to get Art’s tire reinflated. It had popped off the bead and presented quite the problem. Unfortunately, Kurt was suffering with a bad respiratory infection that orange juice alone couldn’t cure. Baja Bucko (Teddi) was also very anxious to get going, so Steve and Zully made room in their 4Runner for Kurt, Teddi and Teddi’s dog and headed on out.


Paul goes to work figured the best course of action. A volume of air is needed, but we only had air pumps and no large tank of compressed air. I suggested the method used in such emergencies in Mexico, which is to pour a small amount of gasoline into the tire and ignite it! The expanding gasses (i.e. ‘explosion’) can pop the tire back on the rim. This was one attempt I caught on film, click on image with volume up:



Neal suggested removing the valve stem and igniting there, and I volunteered to ‘light the wick’ this time… By gosh, it worked!

It is all about teamwork, and we had the greatest team on this trip! The next event was the Widowmaker climb. That alone was hard enough, but someone needed to pull Neal’s camper up it… and the rest of the way out. That someone would be Art and his monster four wheeler!







Paul took some good videos of Art climbing the Widowmaker, and then pulling Neal up. There are posted on YouTube and Baja Nomad.

Further up the mountain climb, things got more difficult because of the sharp turns and the length of the tow strap. It was getting dark and Neal was getting tired. I don’t know why, he is only 80 years old!







Paul and I followed Art and Neal. Chris was just ahead of Art. Neal’s front steering goes out and Paul quickly sees that the tie rod ends are bent, but can be adjusted so Neal’s tires both point the same direction, again.







At this point, boulder was in Art’s way as he repositioned to pull Neal up. The solution was for Paul to winch it away.





Night is upon us and there is still more mountain to climb. On the one sharp turn, Chris’ Dakota is used to get Neal around. Once that is negotiated, the motorhome is reattached. It is a long struggle as we continue on over the highpoint and beyond. Sometime after 1 am, the caravan comes to a stop. Neal’s tie rod ends are shot and steering is no longer possible. We are 8 miles from Rancho Santa Ynez, and this would be where we would ‘crash’ for the night. I have not previously slept in the front seat of my truck, so another first for my Tacoma!

The next morning (Monday) it was decided to go find the parts if the could be found in Baja, otherwise bring them from California. Neal had a satellite phone, but it wouldn’t connect. Neal stayed with his truck and was happy to do so while we headed for El Rosario. Some photos taken along the way to Santa Ynez:








Boojum fell during rain storms of January, perhaps?

Baja Angel and a boojum.

Once back in El Rosario, I called Neal’s home and two of his friends with messages for Marian as to Neal’s status. Antonio (the owner of Baja Cactus Motel) went into action for us via phone as he was in Tijuana and provided a member of his staff to go with Chris to find parts. The parts were found in San Quintin and arrived later that day. We later learned that Neal got his satellite phone to work and he spoke with Marian the next morning. Paul and Zoom had to return home and we stayed with them to make sure they found the way safely. Chris returned to Neal the next day with new tie rod ends installed and Neal was able to drive back to El Rosario.

In El Rosario Neal would have his differential repaired. Here is what it looked like:



It was replaced and Neal returned home on Saturday, a week after this adventure started. What we experienced I don’t wish upon anyone… but what we experienced was also something I will always treasure… A super group of amazing, talented, friendly, adventure seeking Baja Nomads … the kind of people that make memories and friendships last a lifetime!

[Edited on 6-7-2010 by David K]

Udo - 6-6-2010 at 05:22 PM

WOW!

[Edited on 6-7-2010 by Udo]

[Edited on 6-7-2010 by Udo]

[Edited on 6-7-2010 by Udo]

Barry A. - 6-6-2010 at 05:58 PM

INCREDIBLE!!!!! You guys and gals ROCK!!!!

What an adventure, and what great NOMADS. I am really impressed with you all.

Of course, things would have been much easier if my rockin X-Terra has been there. Nooooooo problemo!!!! :lol:

Barry

DK

desertcpl - 6-6-2010 at 06:06 PM

so give us your take on why Neal had so much problems,
was it to much speed? on the diff. and was it just the wenching that got the tie rods,, what would you have done diff. if you had to do that again,, or should say if Neal had to

Barry A. - 6-6-2010 at 06:17 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by desertcpl
so give us your take on why Neal had so much problems,
was it to much speed? on the diff. and was it just the wenching that got the tie rods,, what would you have done diff. if you had to do that again,, or should say if Neal had to


It has got to be the "wenching"---------we all know about Neal and THAT. Trouble, trouble, trouble, those wenches, but we will never know because "what happens in Baja, stays in Baja". :lol:

Barry

Udo - 6-6-2010 at 06:30 PM

Here is my take on the differential problems


I bought a Toyota pick up a few years ago for the express purpose of coverting it to a light weight motorhome. All it had was a shell, a sofa-bed, a potty with a holding tank and a stove. The top popped up as well. It was one of the chassis mount conversions. It looked really cool and took me to many places in Baja as well as many off-road drives.
In the two years that I owned it (before it was stolen), I went through two sets of rear wheel bearings and two differentials.
In my opinion, the rear end problems would have been a no issue had Toyota offered a full-floating rear axle kit. Something similar to what one sees on one ton pick ups.
IMHO Toyota makes an awesome pick up (I have one now ,4X4, as well as an FJ Cruiser), and they are made to schlep 1000lbs regularly, but not while off-roading, such as Neal did and I used to do.

[Edited on 6-7-2010 by Udo]

hbmurphy - 6-6-2010 at 06:31 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by desertcpl
so give us your take on why Neal had so much problems,
was it to much speed? on the diff. and was it just the wenching that got the tie rods,, what would you have done diff. if you had to do that again,, or should say if Neal had to


My opinion would be the stock gears, 2,000 pounds of additional weight, 33 inch tires, combined with the shock to the rear when he hit. If he was lucky it would have been a u-joint. I personally think taller gears for his beast would help. He does have a great assessory for his truck - a marlin crawler box! I don't know if he was in low-low at the time but with all that weight, the rear was asked to work double time!

Even though we had some tough times, everyone had a great attitude. NO MAN LEFT BEHIND! Well sort of. I would have loved to stay but my sweetie has some special stressors at work and needed to be back.

Once again, I want to thank all of you for the invite and the great experience!:cool:

hbmurphy - 6-6-2010 at 06:43 PM

I tend to give my truck a good workout and my stock gears lasted 5,000 miles before I popped them at the infamous "Hammers" trails in Johnson valley! But then again, who the hell would take such a large truck with IFS to the Hammers! I too run 33s but I have an automatic trans and the heaviest thing I have is my fat ass and my 3 full toolboxes and my ridiculous large compressor.

I have Yukon 4.56s, elocker in the rear and an ARB locker up front. I haven't had any driveline problems since.

[Edited on 6-7-2010 by hbmurphy]

desertcpl - 6-6-2010 at 07:08 PM

thanks for the response, I have a 07 Tacoma TRD OFF ROAD,rear locking diff,, we have been doing some wheeling here in Yuma,, but I find the 4X4 low, is lacking,, I have done the Rubicon before in a stock CJ7, it really had great grears was able to walk up most thing and down things with out a hiccup

hbmurphy - 6-6-2010 at 07:27 PM

David - Thanks again for everything and for documenting this trip - very fun!

GREAT POST

desertcpl - 6-6-2010 at 07:33 PM

Oh forgot to tell all of you what a great post this was ,, thanks

hbmurphy - 6-6-2010 at 07:36 PM

One more video... Does anyone know how I can increase the volume? I should have moved right next to Bucco - :-(

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EL9pADdJHpM

David K - 6-6-2010 at 10:06 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by hbmurphy
One more video... Does anyone know how I can increase the volume? I should have moved right next to Bucco - :-(

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EL9pADdJHpM


What a wonderful way to end the trip report... thank you very much Paul. Baja Bucko (Teddi) singing to us around the campfire at Mision Santa Maria de los Angeles, 'The Cowboys of Baja...' :bounce::bounce::bounce:

(I just turned up my speaker volume and heard Bucko and the guitar fine)

David K - 6-6-2010 at 10:22 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by desertcpl
so give us your take on why Neal had so much problems,
was it to much speed? on the diff. and was it just the wenching that got the tie rods,, what would you have done diff. if you had to do that again,, or should say if Neal had to


I think it was the modifications (transfer case, oversize tires, heavy camper) and many hard miles that pushed the differential to the breaking point. Nothing is tougher on a vehicle that that road. Others here can give you better mechanical answers. My truck and Bajatripper's 4Runner where the only two 'pure stock' vehicles (I think) and neither had any breakdowns. The 4Runner needed help only getting through the bog as he had no locker or traction control... and his tires looked to be more highway rated than off road.

I have driven 3 Tacomas in there now ('01, '05, '10) and the road was the hardest of the three and this new Tacoma drove it the easiest... All three of my Tacomas received minor underbody damage from the rocks. This one the most with the bumper being snagged. However, the new Active Traction Control (A-TRAC) available only on '09 and newer Off Road TRD 4WD Tacomas, proved itself beyond all my expectations giving the truck all the advantages of front and rear lockers, without the highly disadvantage problem with steering caused by lockers.

Thank you Nomads for the kind words and I am glad you could enjoy our trip in a small way, here on the Internet. Do try and join us in-person, whenever possible. When you combine a great land with great people and great vehicles, fun is bound to happen!

Next trip will be easy and relaxing... just sand, sun and the Sea of Cortez: Shell Island, this summer!

BajaRob - 6-7-2010 at 06:34 AM

Thanks for the great trip report and pictures of a very challenging outing. You made it like being there without the carnage. Viva Baja!!

Baja12valve - 6-7-2010 at 08:10 AM

David K, I am curious, how much gas, by volume, did you pour into Art's tire to blow it back on the rim? Too little gas is not problem, too much could be a different issue. Nice job though, I have heard of that method, but I have never seen it done.
For me, breaking teeth in gears is a crapshoot. I have taken my truck in all sorts of places, no problems at all. During a routine shift from a stoplight,, nothing special, I broke a tooth in 3rd gear in my NV4500. Go figure.

hbmurphy - 6-7-2010 at 08:26 AM

Quote:
Originally posted by Baja12valve
David K, I am curious, how much gas, by volume, did you pour into Art's tire to blow it back on the rim? Too little gas is not problem, too much could be a different issue. Nice job though, I have heard of that method, but I have never seen it done.
For me, breaking teeth in gears is a crapshoot. I have taken my truck in all sorts of places, no problems at all. During a routine shift from a stoplight,, nothing special, I broke a tooth in 3rd gear in my NV4500. Go figure.


About 1/4 to 1/3 cup... Just from our anecdotal evidence - it finally worked when Neal suggested that we remove the valve core! I think all the other attempts may have worked but the expanding gas most likely escaped through the bead area!

Remember - his tires were about 1" too narrow for his rims! :light:

[Edited on 6-7-2010 by hbmurphy]

TMW - 6-7-2010 at 10:25 AM

Thanks David for the trip reports. Sounds like a great adventure I wish I had been on.

bajalou - 6-7-2010 at 11:14 AM

Quote:
Originally posted by hbmurphy

About 1/4 to 1/3 cup... Just from our anecdotal evidence - it finally worked when Neal suggested that we remove the valve core! I think all the other attempts may have worked but the expanding gas most likely escaped through the bead area!

Remember - his tires were about 1" too narrow for his rims! :light:

[Edited on 6-7-2010 by hbmurphy]


I've used that method many times. It will work much easier/better if you take the wheel off the vehicle and lay it flat on the ground. I've never used more than 2-3 tablespoons. It's the fumes that do the work, not the liquid. Put a couple tablespoons in the tire, leave a trail from the bead across the tire down to the ground for a couple feet. then lite the "fuse" and wait for the "Whomp". The time laying your fuse lets the gas evaporate and that's what you need - fumes.

Engine starter fluid works equally as well.

fandango - 6-7-2010 at 12:08 PM

wow! what an adventure.

did neal camp alone that night?

ursidae69 - 6-7-2010 at 02:00 PM

You all are lucky that motorhome didn't burn up. Next time, take the tire off and use starter fluid like bajalou mentioned.

Also, that road looks like a mudd-freeway now. When I went there in 2003 I hiked the last part rather than drive the bog just because it is a desert afterall and water is something to conserve, not fill with your gear oil. :rolleyes:

Other than that, cool trip with good rough road action.



Quote:
Originally posted by bajalou
Quote:
Originally posted by hbmurphy

About 1/4 to 1/3 cup... Just from our anecdotal evidence - it finally worked when Neal suggested that we remove the valve core! I think all the other attempts may have worked but the expanding gas most likely escaped through the bead area!

Remember - his tires were about 1" too narrow for his rims! :light:

[Edited on 6-7-2010 by hbmurphy]


I've used that method many times. It will work much easier/better if you take the wheel off the vehicle and lay it flat on the ground. I've never used more than 2-3 tablespoons. It's the fumes that do the work, not the liquid. Put a couple tablespoons in the tire, leave a trail from the bead across the tire down to the ground for a couple feet. then lite the "fuse" and wait for the "Whomp". The time laying your fuse lets the gas evaporate and that's what you need - fumes.

Engine starter fluid works equally as well.

Barry A. - 6-7-2010 at 02:40 PM

So guys (and gals) if you just drove to the "bog" stopping short of entering the water, are the really rough sections of the road behind you, or still in front of you?

IN other words, is it feasible for a "normal" vehicle (suv) to reach the bog, park, and then hike on in to the Mission?

Barry

ursidae69 - 6-7-2010 at 02:54 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by Barry A.
So guys (and gals) if you just drove to the "bog" stopping short of entering the water, are the really rough sections of the road behind you, or still in front of you?

IN other words, is it feasible for a "normal" vehicle (suv) to reach the bog, park, and then hike on in to the Mission?

Barry


The rough spot is before the bog, maybe half mile. That trail itself is not all that challenging otherwise. Any stock 4x4 with a locker can make it fine.

Barry A. - 6-7-2010 at 03:23 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by ursidae69
Quote:
Originally posted by Barry A.
So guys (and gals) if you just drove to the "bog" stopping short of entering the water, are the really rough sections of the road behind you, or still in front of you?

IN other words, is it feasible for a "normal" vehicle (suv) to reach the bog, park, and then hike on in to the Mission?

Barry


The rough spot is before the bog, maybe half mile. That trail itself is not all that challenging otherwise. Any stock 4x4 with a locker can make it fine.


Thanks--------and I am thinking that the "bog" somewhat dries up in the Fall, right??-----like in Oct. or Nov.??? before the rains, assuming no tropical storms come thru.

Barry

edm1 - 6-7-2010 at 05:56 PM

This was not mentioned - this was the moment when Neal really got s-c-a-r-e-d. I didn't hear anything on the radio, to stop, and I kept pulling. Notice the ravine to his left. It was close.

From then on, Chris stayed with me to man the radio.



[Edited on 6-8-2010 by edm1]

mtgoat666 - 6-7-2010 at 06:03 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by ursidae69
Quote:
Originally posted by Barry A.
So guys (and gals) if you just drove to the "bog" stopping short of entering the water, are the really rough sections of the road behind you, or still in front of you?

IN other words, is it feasible for a "normal" vehicle (suv) to reach the bog, park, and then hike on in to the Mission?

Barry


The rough spot is before the bog, maybe half mile. That trail itself is not all that challenging otherwise. Any stock 4x4 with a locker can make it fine.


looks like y'all had a grand adventure!!

why not just walk the last mile or 2? seems like the damaged vehicles would suggest that walking would be cheaper. from looks of the pictures, a good walk would be beneficial for cardiovascular health!!

i see 2 $500 bumper repairs' and neal johns putting down >$3k to fix truck.

David K - 6-7-2010 at 06:06 PM

I have been to Santa Maria 4 times now.

This time was (by far) the most difficult. All of us with 4WD and lockers or traction control drove through the bog without a problem. Bajatripper's 4runner and Neal's camper AFTER the differential failed (and made him 2WD) were the only vehicles that needed help in there.

Trip 1) MAY 1, 1999: The bog was wet, maybe less than 6" water.
Trip 2) Mid APRIL, 2003: The bog was wet, 6" to 12" water
Trip 3) Memorial Day May, 2007: the bog was 'dry' (damp, but no surface water)
Trip 4) " 2010: The bog was 2-3 feet deep... BIG rains past winter...

Many people drive to the mission, the road was made through the bog in the late 1960's.

The 'rough' spots are nearly all on the final 4 miles coming down from the peninsular divide... with the 'hardest' parts being the granite surface/ off camber section, The Widowmaker (1.1 mile from the mission), the bog, and the final half mile to the mission (where Art's and my bumper got peeled back).

David K - 6-7-2010 at 06:23 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by mtgoat666
Quote:
Originally posted by ursidae69
Quote:
Originally posted by Barry A.
So guys (and gals) if you just drove to the "bog" stopping short of entering the water, are the really rough sections of the road behind you, or still in front of you?

IN other words, is it feasible for a "normal" vehicle (suv) to reach the bog, park, and then hike on in to the Mission?

Barry


The rough spot is before the bog, maybe half mile. That trail itself is not all that challenging otherwise. Any stock 4x4 with a locker can make it fine.


looks like y'all had a grand adventure!!

why not just walk the last mile or 2? seems like the damaged vehicles would suggest that walking would be cheaper. from looks of the pictures, a good walk would be beneficial for cardiovascular health!!

i see 2 $500 bumper repairs' and neal johns putting down >$3k to fix truck.


Four wheeling to the mission and beyond to the end of the road was the goal... Camping AT the mission or nearby, was the goal... and how we enjoyed ourselves. Check out the many YouTubes of others going to the mission... It is like climbing Mt. Everest to Baja four wheelers... we go because it is there. There was no way knowing Neal would have problems, or that I would bend a bumper, or that Art would pop his tires BEFORE they happened.

These sort of things make us better drivers or better mechanics or better campers... but the one thing that it did the most was make all of us on this trip BETTER FRIENDS, and that is worth all we went through.:light::bounce:

hbmurphy - 6-7-2010 at 07:17 PM

I had a dream this weekend that I visited Art in Pheonix. We had to run out to a parts store so we took his daily driver - It was one of these lifted about 24 inches!!! :lol: :lol: :lol: :o


edm1 - 6-7-2010 at 08:30 PM

That's very funny Paul. And my DD is my toad when off-roading in the US :-) It has to match the ground clearance of my motorhome.

edm1 - 6-7-2010 at 08:36 PM

"i see 2 $500 bumper repairs' "

I already straightened my bumper, trimmed the bottom and reinforced it with a 3/16x3x2 tubing at the bottom. The bumper assembly is now 5 inches higher than before. I've trimmed the fiberglass hind quarters to match the height of the raised bumper, for a raked look and improved departure angle. Cost me $90 in steel materials plus welding elbow grease, excluding paint finish which will be later. Did it all myself. Trouble is I now have to retrofit my spare tire carrier to fit the new bumper height.

[Edited on 6-8-2010 by edm1]

David K - 6-8-2010 at 09:58 PM

It is funny how close my bumper is to where it belongs... it is still twisted downward 50%, but is nearly parallel with the truck tailgate and no longer stickingout...?!

MORE PHOTOS from HB MURPHY (Paul)

David K - 6-24-2010 at 08:54 AM













Thank you!

motoged - 6-25-2010 at 11:53 AM

I was dirtbiking Baja in February 2010 and stopped at the top of the Widowmaker as I was riding solo and didn't want to risk the uphill coming out of the Mission at that point:o ....my buddies the next day made it to the water (2 -3 feet deep) where they parked for their walk to the Mission:saint:

The road certainly had been "boulderized" by the fall rains, but was a great ride....several hours of helmet-cam video allow me to enjoy the ride whenever I want now:spingrin:....

Congrats in getting up the Widowmaker with those rigs:coolup:

David K - 6-26-2010 at 09:35 PM

THANKS!!! IT WAS AWESOME!!!

bump to the top

Ken Cooke - 9-22-2010 at 06:03 PM

Here's to adventure and a great thread! I *still* wish I could have made this run...:(

BAJACAT - 9-22-2010 at 10:50 PM

me too Ken maybe next time...

BajaRoadrunner - 9-27-2010 at 12:11 PM

I'm ready to do it again, November???
Just did Corral Canyon's Bronco Peak and Sidewinder. Everything working good in the XJ.

let me know.

David K - 9-27-2010 at 01:21 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by BajaRoadrunner
I'm ready to do it again, November???
Just did Corral Canyon's Bronco Peak and Sidewinder. Everything working good in the XJ.

let me know.


Thanks RR, we are planning another USA vacation in November (New Mexico) at the moment... The deep water should be way down for you... I did do the rear differential breather mod on my Tacoma, so deep water is no more an issue. Both hb murphy ('09 Tacoma) and I had no issues with the deep water... only bajatripper needed help as he had no locking differential... and Neal Johns coming out, as he had no 4WD after the rear differential blew.

Do see bajatripper's photos I posted a couple weeks ago: http://forums.bajanomad.com/viewthread.php?tid=47842

David K - 12-21-2010 at 12:18 PM

Sure was a fun trip with everyone!

I am making a web page of it, so I came here to check a couple things I wrote last June...

I will post the web page link when it is done.