BajaBlanca - 8-23-2010 at 11:01 AM
Welcome to Batopilas:
http://s848.photobucket.com/albums/ab45/BajaBlanca/?action=v...
The next day, we bought a bus ticket on a regular bus (sold in one of the arts and crafts stores) to go to Batopilas. This village is located at the
bottom of the canyon. It was put on the map in the 1800’s by an American named Alexander Shepherd. He left the US under charges of being corrupt …He
took his whole family to Batopilas (his son wrote an autobiography about their life – SILVER MAGNET by Grant Shepherd). Shepherd mined for silver and
became a millionaire. Because of him, Batopilas became the second city in all of Mexico to get electricity. The bus trip took 5 hours and the trip
is so wild and so beautiful that words do not do justice, but it was exquisite. The trees are all different kinds of pines and the vegetation changes
as you descend. This excursion is all about the trip down - Les was at the window and he was ..... well ...... unimpressed for the first 80% of the
trip and then the canyons got sheer drops and the views were amazing and the bus was on the very very VERY edge of the narrowest dirt road you can
imagine. From that moment on he was so busy saying "oh ****" and taking pictures one after the other. At one famous point, the bus stops for all to
get off and stretch. I point to what looks like a narrow footpath and ask if that is for locals to walk across. The driver looks at me and
laughs....No , he says, that is where WE will be crossing soon !! You guys, it looked like a line on a piece of paper, that is how steep the drop was
and the road zig zagged all the way down. On the way, the most exciting part for me was seeing lots of Indian women traveling on foot with their kids
and we saw the RUNNERS !!!! The famous Raramuris runners. We were so lucky !!
Batopilas, which I totally expected to be wowed by, let me down. The bdgs are falling apart and the town seems abandoned. As you slowly roll into
town, you’ll see on the left, the huge silver mine plantation house where Shepherd and family lived. It is run down and full of weeds. History
totally being destroyed …In town, we went to a hotel right on the one main street. Spotless and we were the only guests there. Colonial style building
with famous pictures of Indians and their legends on the walls. We left for lunch and could only see one real restaurant to speak of. Carolina was
the name of the restaurant and owner's name and the food was OK and inexpensive. Her brother lives next door and works with leather so we bought a
knife sheath. He wanted to sell me the shoes the Indians wear but it would have taken a week to understand how to tie them up !!
I went to the local museum on the one and only main road. I enjoyed the museum tremendously. Lots of photos and the guy spoke passable English for
Les. So many Americans were involved in the history of the town – governors and ambassadors went from Mexico to States and back again … really
interesting. What most disturbed me is that it seems that Shepherd really did not do much for the town – for someone who became a millionaire off
it’s riches, I expected to see art and statues and perhaps a library and certainly a more complete museum. I do intend to write to the U.N. –
Batopilas is frozen in time and should be protected/preserved for all of humanity.
As for the town: I must say, each building or store or tienda has at least one antique in it that will awe you. One store has a 1800's cash register
that is enormous and intricately etched. Another has those ancient irons where you put coals inside to heat them up being used as knapkin holders.
Another restaurant had the huge pottery vats the Indian used for corn storage (maize) and one bar had the back part that was washed away when the
river overflowed in the 1800's. Women were washing clothes in the river which runs thru the town. Kids were swimming in the same river that horses and
cows were drinking from. It is as if Batopilas never evolved – it seems stuck in time … I saw lots of Indians in their typical clothing. People are
not very friendly. I guess we are spoiled by Baja and La Bocana
The hard part was taking the bus back to Creel – you must be there at 5:30 a.m. !! This is so that people taking the train the same day can make it
back in time. PART III coming next, tours we took around Creel.
I recommend a book called HISTORY OF THE COPPER CANYON AND TARAHUMARA INDIANS - which is actually 3 books in one, part of the profits help the Indians
in Chihuahua and the author/compiler seems to be committed to this. It includes Grant Shepherds writings. And some amazing photography. A first class
book all around.
[Edited on 8-23-2010 by BajaBlanca]
Natalie Ann - 8-23-2010 at 12:03 PM
I'm loving this report and pix, Blanca.
(For those having a difficult time with the link, copy/paste works.)
The trip down sounds exciting adventurous.
Interesting how the folks there are not so friendly. You're right, we've been spoiled by Baja.
Know that I'm eagerly awaiting Part 3.
[Edit to thank Blanca for the book recommendation.]
nena
[Edited on 8-23-2010 by Natalie Ann]
David K - 8-23-2010 at 01:14 PM
Copper Canyon Part 2 direct link...
Copper Canyon Part 2
rocmoc - 8-23-2010 at 01:31 PM
I can't image riding in a bus on that road. We were in a Creel local's Chevy Suburban (sp) and I swear he did the Catholic crossing of his chest on
half of the turns. It is differently a must do on your bucket list. Batopilas was prettier IMHO than most Mexican towns but yes the old Shepherd
Estate has seen better days. Sound like you missed one of the best site and that is a $10 tour of the Lost Mission further down the river. It is a 4
wheel drive trip. They were working on the Mission when we were there and they ask me if I wanted to go on the roof. Heck yeah, up the bell town and
out thu the bell opening. Really cool, a once in a life-time chance. Did you see the old Remingtons in the Swinging Bridge Restaurant? I made a
offer to purchase but they were not interested. Said many people have tried to buy them. If you are ever in Creel, don't miss this side-trip and
don't miss Creel. One of my favorite place on the mainland.
rocmoc n AZ/Baja
[Edited on 8-23-2010 by rocmoc]
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DianaT - 8-23-2010 at 02:34 PM
Anxious to look at all you photos as soon as this connection is working a little better!
We drove down to Batopilas on our own and talked Juanita into allowing our dogs to stay at her hotel across from the plaza---beautiful old place and
she is super nice. But one does have to tell her when you want a shower so she can turn the hot water on.
We enjoyed being there and also driving to the "lost" mission. The climate in the canyon is much nicer in January---was quite warm and nice and there
was snow in Creel.
Really glad you had such a great vacation and thanks for sharing it!
Oh, we find the Tarahumara a little more friendly than the first time we went to Creel 20 years ago, many who have changed their culture and are
benefiting from more tourism, but they have good reasons from the past for not liking outsiders, and everyone is an outsider.
Diana
[Edited on 8-23-2010 by DianaT]
[Edited on 8-23-2010 by DianaT]
BajaBlanca - 8-23-2010 at 03:51 PM
rocmoc - Les was not interested in the mission, that wd've been a Blanca must do and maybe next time !!
we did see the guns, the swinging bridge restaurant is the photo where I am at the table with 2 beers in hand AND it is the same restaurant that had
the antique irons.
my thought on the bus: that driver does that trip down the canyojn and back up EVERY DAY OF EVERY WEEK. If he trusts that he can do it, I wd prefer
him to anyone else !! I did not bat an eye but Les was sweating bullets.
It is not that people were unfriendly, it is that people from Baja (IMO) are overly extremely super outgoing.
Diana T - if you told me I had to deal with snow at any point in any trip, I would cry from moment one on !!! HAHAHA You are talking to an ocean lover
who had never ever been in snow for more than a month and she was 17 at the time and much hardier than now !! May was perfect weather at the top.
August is supposed to be better for rain and thunder storms (apparently nice to see at the rim of the canyon) and also the waterfalls are fuller. But
I was happy with what we got. It was really hot during the day at the bottom of the canyon but cooled off nicely in the evening and at night. Of
course, at the hotel, there was air conditioning.
durrelllrobert - 8-23-2010 at 04:07 PM
wonder how they got all the building materials, etc. down there back then
must
have taken a whole lot of mule trips.
Ken Bondy - 8-23-2010 at 04:11 PM
BajaBlanca
Loved the report and the photos.
++Ken++
Bajahowodd - 8-23-2010 at 04:24 PM
Can't recall which Nomad it was, but a fairly recent post was made noting that they were going to be taking a cruise into the Sea of Cortez. They
specifically requested input on what to do and what to see in places such as La Paz and Loreto. However, I recall that they stated they were not
interested in taking the shore excursion into the Copper Canyon from Topolobampo, citing the length of time involved. At that time I posted that they
should really reconsider, in that the canyon is one of the treasures of the world. Your posts and pix must surely make them change their minds. Thanks
for sharing.
BajaBlanca - 8-23-2010 at 04:35 PM
Durrellrobert: In the book THE SILVER MAGNET by the son of the millionaire to be Alexander Shepherd, it took them 40 days to cross by mule ... there
were 7 kids and the whole party numbered 17 people. Four dogs. bags and handbags. The young ones had a person who sat with them in the saddle so as
to hold them upwhen they slept.
At one point, the dad brought over a grand piano !!
The trail/road is crazy now, back then, well, what an adventurer and I personally take my hat off to his WIFE !!!! SHE REALLY LOVED HIM. No doubt
about it.