BajaNomad - COPPER CANYON III - everything Tarahumara Indian and more

COPPER CANYON III - everything Tarahumara Indian and more

BajaBlanca - 8-24-2010 at 06:28 PM

PART III COPPER CANYON –
Copper Canyon Part 3

Copper Canyon III - Indians

you can see the pics as a slideshow, click on the slide to slow it down. Or you can go to the top where it says:see album and then go thru slowly one by one. I think.

We took some tours around Creel to see the Indian villages, a waterfall and surrounding area. It is very green and lush. The Mexican government has donated thousands of miles of land to the native Indians who live there. I understand there are over 100 tribes and as many dialects. They still have their ancient way of life harvesting 5 crops (corn, squash, etc.). The kids can go to school if they want but are not obliged to. I saw most of them working alongside their parents. After highschool, they have courses specializing in agriculture and animal husbandry. Most of them survive off their arts and crafts (pottery, whittling, basket weaving). The women wear layers and layers of colorful skirts. The men wear all white – a tunic over a short draped cloth skirt. The Raramuris are famous for jogging for days either barefoot or in their typical sandals.

The waterfall is beautiful and one can go swimming in the lower pools. Lake Arareko is huge and quite a few people live near it. Les and I were both feeling the lack of oxygen and were not hiking anywhere that day !! Why didn’t I do all this when I was young ……. Make that younger.

There are some rocks that naturally look like an elephant and a turtle. Our guide explained that there are some volcanic rocks underneath the nonvolcanic rocks.

The Indians live in wooden log houses down the mountain and in caves at the top of the mountain – you can visit a cave that was lived in for 3 generations and then they outgrew it. We heard that there is a famous Australian pianist who married a Tarahuamara and lives half the year in Australia and the other half in a very elaborate cave.

I was most impressed with the handicraft – from the clothes to the pottery to the whittling and basketweaving – it is all beautiful, and in my opinion, way underpriced.

The mystery of the Indian philosophy really drew me, if I could go back in time, I would definitely make it a project to study their language in detail, and perhaps explore their philosophy: everything is life – rocks – rain – birds – people. They are very connected to Earth. I am sure they wd be devastated to see what we are doing to the oceans … the air ….

edited to try and paste link as taught by David ... let's see if I am a good student ... :lol:

[Edited on 8-26-2010 by BajaBlanca]

[Edited on 10-22-2010 by BajaBlanca]

David K - 8-24-2010 at 09:05 PM

Blanca.... edit! Only the link URL goes into the box.

Here it is for the photos:
Copper Canyon Part 3

windgrrl - 8-25-2010 at 08:13 AM

Thank you for the wonderful images, Bajablanca and also to DK for making viewing possible!

Bajafun777 - 8-25-2010 at 09:36 AM

Bajablanca, very good photos and interesting comments you provided in photobucket on your photos. Looks like you had a great time, which is what Mexico travel is all about. Travel Safe, Be Safe and Nomad ON!! Later---------------- bajafun777

toneart - 8-25-2010 at 10:19 AM

Happy Blanca! :yes:

What an interesting culture. That picture of the girl's face labeled "Mysterious" reminds me of that famous National Geographic photo in the 1980s of the pretty, young Afghan woman with the startling Blue/Green eyes. (I have that issue).

You were there during the winter, weren't you? It didn't look very cold, judging by what you were wearing. I had heard it is really cold there.

BajaBlanca - 8-25-2010 at 02:51 PM

Tony - we went there this past MAY - it was cold at night and perfectly nice during the day. Too hot for me at the bottom of the canyon .. but I think I have become more sensitive since it rarely gets too hot here in La Bocana.

I sure wish I could get the photo link down pat.... I am technologically challenged and THANKS DAVID FOR FIXING .... I have no idea what to edit hahahaha I am NOT kidding when I say I just don't get any of this :lol:

Wish I had the excuse of being blonde :spingrin:

David K - 8-25-2010 at 03:21 PM

To insert a link (url) which begins with http:// onto a Nomad post use this button located right above where you type you post:

The first pop up will be where you type the name of your link... like 'Copper Canyon 3 Photos'

The second pop up box is where you insert the url (web address for the photos), which you have copied with your mouse from the photobucket page:

http:// s848.photobucket.com/albums/ab45/BajaBlanca/Everything%20Tarahumara%20Indian%20in%20Creel/?action=view&current=cf47ab77. pbw(space added to keep it from being blue)

Shorter urls will show up all blue if the http:// is in front and there are no spaces in the address. The photobucket url is so long, that Nomad won't allow it to become a hyper link (all blue)... the last three letters aren't included.

So paste the link in the second pop up box... and this is the result:

Copper Canyon 3 Photos

Somehow, you copied your entire post and pasted the entire post in the second box! Only copy the the url.

Now, to fix... go up to your opening post and you will see an 'edit' button next to the post box... click on it and try again! Probably copy your text so you don't have to retype it all...

BajaBlanca - 8-25-2010 at 08:21 PM

David K - I THINK THE LINK WORKS AND IT LOOKS SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO BEAUTIFUL NOW !!!!

Thanks so much, I had NO idea that was how it should be done, esp. since on my computer it looked correct .... hahaha

great great great day.

David K - 8-26-2010 at 08:46 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by BajaBlanca
David K - I THINK THE LINK WORKS AND IT LOOKS SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO BEAUTIFUL NOW !!!!

Thanks so much, I had NO idea that was how it should be done, esp. since on my computer it looked correct .... hahaha

great great great day.

You did great! I am more than happy to help!

Mexitron - 8-26-2010 at 12:00 PM

Thanks for sharing Blanca! We're thinking of driving from through Chihuahua on the way to Guaymas (and taking the ferry to Santa Rosalia). Looks like beautiful country...do you know if there are any roads we could drive in on to get a peek at the canyon?

BajaRat - 8-26-2010 at 01:32 PM

I lived in the area for a while. My friend married a girl from there and I helped build a couple of homes for the family. They recieve quite a bit of rain from thunder storm activity this time of year and lightning is to be taken very seriously there. The winter weather consists of below freezing nights, snow storms and many mild sun filled days. There are dirt roads outside of Creel that allow you to get close to the rim of the canyon, ask about the divisadero overlook. The only road I know of heading west out of the Sierra Madres Mexico 16 leaves from San Juanito about an hour north of Creel on the only paved road to Hermosillo. After the road leaves the forested mountains it decends into the semi-arid decidous thorn forest. One of the most un nerving places I've visited in the world is on this road. It's a town named Yecora in the state of Sonora. It's set back off the Highway on it's own side road. First we drove past two men posted like sentries on each side of the road in civilian clothes with assult rifles. When we arrived in the small white plastered center of town there were seemingly out of place new cars, more men with assult rifles and some very well dressed women. It was the fastest beer, ice and snacks run I've ever made. Our assumptions were confirmed by a Catholic monk outside of town that this was a major drug trafficing hub. Get ice elsewhere and enjoy lifes ride.
Lionel

BajaBlanca - 8-26-2010 at 08:32 PM

MEXITRON - I have NO idea about the roads since the only road trip we did was from Creel to Batopilas, but as you are on the train, you see long and willowy roads the whole time between Los Mochis and Creel ....Definitely keep your wits about you - drug cartels are HUGE in this area. They, I am sure, are not remotelyinterested in tourists, so my thought is: stay as close to touristy areas as possible. Maybe park the car - take the train for a little canyon side trip - then return for the car ??

BAJARAT - we have some friends who went during the rainy season and stayed at the Divisadero hotel overlooking the canyon - they said the lightning and thunder was amazing. I hate rain, so, no thanx !!!

For anyone who likes nature at it's best, this ranks right up there with the Redwood Forest or Petrified Forest or Glacier Park ... truly a must see.

Mexitron - 8-27-2010 at 05:39 AM

Thanks for the info BajaRat and BajaBlanca! I'll make sure to avoid Yecora and sounds like the train is the best bet for seeing the canyon...

Marc - 9-6-2010 at 07:50 AM

Wonderful report BajaBlanca. Did you visit the Cathedral? That takes a few hours. It stands some miles down the river.

"Born to Run" and "God's Middle Finger" are must reads if you are headed that way. I was there twice in "09 and again in March. We took the train the first trip and drove the other times. Let me tell you it's a looong winding drive from Hermosillo. We spent a night at Basasaechic (spelling?) Falls on the way. A log cabin set in the pines. Perfect!

I think next year we will take the ferry from Sta. Rosalia and try driving the southern route. On our first trip we drove as far as Croix and were warned to turn back because of bandito activity so we drove back to El Fuerte and hopped on the train. I think we can make it next time if we pick a local guide to talk us through (read God's Middle Finger) A guy trip for sure in October '11. I do want to spend some time in Urique and the southern route looks challenging in a big 4X4.

[Edited on 9-6-2010 by Marc]

[Edited on 9-8-2010 by Marc]

BajaBlanca - 9-7-2010 at 09:49 AM

We did not visit the cathedral but I know we shall return to the area again and again. I really enjoyed this trip- it was NOT what I expected - it was way way WAY beyond that. Thanks for the heads up on the books.

Iflyfish - 9-7-2010 at 10:29 AM

Thank you for sharing these wonderful images.

We took that train back in the 1970's from El Forte to Creel. First Class, "Coca Cola Señora?", There was a Declaimer on the train telling stories part of the way.

We traveled through a forest fire on our way to Creel. Incredible to be riding through an inferno on both sides of the tracks, will never forget it.

My twin brother is an Anthropologist so we had a very interesting time there. We hiked from Creel up to San Ignacio and sat for much of the afternoon in the shade of the church. The area around the church cleared out of people as soon as we arrived. They did not want anything to do with us "ghosts". Finally people started to mill around us and life went back to its normal pace as they recognized we had no hidden agendas.

We walked through a valley of these amazing sandstone "mushrooms" a unique place in the world. We would catch fleeting images of brightly colored skirts moving on the canyon walls, these were from the people who lived in the caves on the cliffs of this canyon. They too wanted nothing to do with us.

We ended up in an open area where a number of small Milpas (small gardens) were being tended and the corn being stored in small silos built on stilts to keep them off the ground. The houses were made of sticks and wattle and the "cool stoves" were discarded square gallon tin cans.

We brought with us peanut brittle and seeds to share with people and they gratefully appreciated them.

We began to talk with a farmer; he too had only rudimentary Spanish. He was plowing his milpa with a one bottom oak or hardwood plow bit. We were raised on a wheat farm in North Dakota and had watched plowing being done with a one bottom plow before, but NEVER with an Oak Plow!!

Our language deficiency did not allow for much exchange and I felt this incredibly deep chasm between our lives and experience. It was like being transplanted to a place that was thousands of years old and I guess that is because it was.

I still have the beautiful multicolored woven baskets, pottery, drum and violin I purchased on that trip and am reminded each time I see them of those wonderful people who manage to maintain to this day their ancient life, language and culture.

I appreciate your sharing this wonderful travel account with us.

Iflyfish

BajaBlanca - 9-7-2010 at 10:53 AM

Iflyfish = I want a twin brother who is an anthropologist .... isn't it amazing that 30 years after YOU went there, the people have exactly the same lifestyle and still sell the same gorgeous pine baskets (which is obviously passed on from generation to generation) and still love their way of life enough to see what we consider progress "CREEL" and shy away from it, maintaining their integrity to nature. They are amazing. One with the earth. Ancient. Thanks for sharing your experiece.

Iflyfish - 9-7-2010 at 10:56 AM

We will have some good stories to share for sure!!

Iflyfish

Marc - 9-7-2010 at 10:09 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Mexitron
Thanks for sharing Blanca! We're thinking of driving from through Chihuahua on the way to Guaymas (and taking the ferry to Santa Rosalia). Looks like beautiful country...do you know if there are any roads we could drive in on to get a peek at the canyon?

Creel is 2:00 hours from Cuauhtemoc. About 1:15 on Mex16 to the signed turn off then about :45 to Creel. Absolutely beautiful country. Roads are first rate.

Once in Creel drive to Divisadero and a bit beyond for the views. Have a drink in the hotel bar that sits on the canyon rim.

It's about a 10 hour drive from Creel to Hermosillo. A drive you will not soon forget!

[Edited on 9-8-2010 by Marc]

Iflyfish - 9-8-2010 at 12:26 AM

Ditto on the God's Middle Finger recommendation! Some very serious narco stuff goes down there. Quidado. The train is safer.

Iflyfish

wilderone - 10-22-2010 at 08:05 AM

The Tarahumara want to preserve their culture and lifestyle, but it is difficult in drier years and many live so far from any town in case medical attention is needed. I've been donating to this organization which seems to diligently use their funds and doesn't have a lot of staff. I receive a detailed newsletter once a year which discusses their projects. They drill wells, buy subsidized corn, run a medical clinic, etc. Infant mortality is way down after many water wells were drilled. Anyway, if you choose:
Tarahumara Childrens Hospital
PO Box 62600 Dept 1346
New Orleans LA 70162

[Edited on 10-22-2010 by wilderone]

BajaBlanca - 10-22-2010 at 02:37 PM

wilderone - that is fantastic .... there was a clinic next to our hotel but I didn't have time to visit it ... I bet they are connected. Would it be possible for you to tell us more about some of the projects they are involved in besides the wells (and the U.N. named that particular improvement and the #1 for getting people out of poverty).

Teh guy who puts out the book HISTORY OF THE COPPER CANYON and the Tarahumara Indians which includes UNKNOWN MEXICO by Carl Lumholtz and SILVER MAGNET by Grant Shepherd also donates profits to giving corn to the Indians whn their crops are not yielding ... The book has incredible photos of the area and lots of info. and in reality, it is 3 books in one. A deal and a half.

wilderone - 10-23-2010 at 09:29 AM

I dug for the last newsletter which I got last month - made my donation and threw it away. It's very down to earth - the organization buys corn for distribution in the lean years, equipment for the clinic, pays modest salaries for the few people who run this organization, and the wells are a big deal; they apply for grant money to keep the organization afloat. I'd get folksy letters from Fr. Luis Verplanken who ran it for many years (deceased), telling how a drill bit broke, how much it cost, how many tons of corn they bought, how many births and deaths that year. I know they do a lot to enhance the health of the Tarahumara without interfering with the culture. Even a $5 donation would help with postage, etc. and you'll be on their mailing list and you can keep up on the news. I only get one mailing a year.

BajaBlanca - 10-23-2010 at 06:21 PM

thanks for the infomation. sounds like a VERY worthwhile organization

DENNIS - 10-24-2010 at 10:21 AM

More TARAHUMARA stuff:

http://www.forttumbleweed.net/tarahumara.html

Neal Johns - 10-24-2010 at 07:13 PM

Excellent writeup and pics. Thanks!
Neal

On my last trip there, I had a diverse group of friends I was guiding and we had great fun (and a few adventures). We drove down in 4WD's and on the way home took the roads west to Alamos, a great town to visit. Detailed below:

Read the four post in the DE Trips about my last trip to CC.

http://desertexplorers.org/tr-cucyn99/cucyn.htm
http://desertexplorers.org/ccfotos.htm
http://desertexplorers.org/hughes.htm
http://desertexplorers.org/patvirg.htm

BajaBlanca - 10-25-2010 at 08:00 PM

Dennis - loved reading the Tarahumara information - and can you believe they think our marathons are too short LOL ??!! but if you consider they run for a day and a half - then a couple hours IS waaaaaaaaaay toooo short.

Ken Cooke - 12-19-2010 at 08:04 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by toneart
You were there during the winter, weren't you? It didn't look very cold, judging by what you were wearing. I had heard it is really cold there.

It does get very cold there in the winter. You wonder how the Tarahumara people survive without thick down jackets. But, they have acclimated to the region over centuries. Plus, the sunlight there is warm during the daylight hours.

Ken Cooke - 12-19-2010 at 08:07 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Neal Johns
Excellent writeup and pics. Thanks!
Neal

On my last trip there, I had a diverse group of friends I was guiding and we had great fun (and a few adventures). We drove down in 4WD's and on the way home took the roads west to Alamos, a great town to visit. Detailed below:

Read the four post in the DE Trips about my last trip to CC.

http://desertexplorers.org/tr-cucyn99/cucyn.htm
http://desertexplorers.org/ccfotos.htm
http://desertexplorers.org/hughes.htm
http://desertexplorers.org/patvirg.htm

Neal -- Be sure to look at my thread (located here in the 'non-Baja Vacation' section of the forum for video and photos of Alamos and the mountainous region of Cerocahui and Creel. Our group had to travel via Tubares to Choix and on to El Fuerte. From there, we traveled north to Alamos.

Barry A. - 12-19-2010 at 09:00 AM

We were there for two weeks in February, and tho brisk at night we never even wore jackets------just micro-fleece pull-overs. We were coldest in Creel, where there was a little snow, but it was shirt sleeve weather in the bottom of the canyon, even at night.

Barry

Marc - 1-14-2011 at 07:47 PM

Was in Creel three times since '09. Drove to Batopilas. Think I'll go back later this year.

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