BajaNomad - The road to Erindira!

The road to Erindira!

bajabass - 11-8-2010 at 02:13 PM

Got real bored Saturday morning and decided to head out to La Bocana. The construction south of Maneadero is not too bad, a little dusty, but goes pretty quick. I hit the dirt road out to La Bocana, and it is in pretty good shape. As usual the views were spectacular! OK, it is still early. On to Erindira!
I made fast work of the road out of La Bocana, and jetted a little further south to the Erindira turnoff. Freshly paved! Everything but a 1 mile stretch is the newest, smoothest blacktop I have seen! Stopped by Coyote Cal's and met Rick, had few XX's and a shot of patron. He mentioned the dirt road that follows the coast north, then cuts through valleys dumping you out behind the school in Santo Tomas. Sounds good to me, I ask my current navigator, Winston the Baja mutt, he nods and smiles, and off again. Probably 10 miles of coast, with fantastic views, then about 20 or so of valley after valley, a couple ranches, lots of livestock, and everybody I saw waved and smiled!! A great drive!!! :yes:

Glad you had a good time!

Mulegena - 11-8-2010 at 02:19 PM

Good to know the road to Erindira is almost completed. Its worth the trip.

I'm looking forward to my next Thai Massage with Hai who owns and teaches in her on-site clinic at Coyote Cal's. She's the best!

For an adventure I plan to make time to explore the coast and head north on the track you drove to Santo Tomas. Thanks for paving' the way.

bajabass - 11-8-2010 at 03:33 PM

Hai must have been the lady I met at Cal's, Rick's wife. Very friendly people and a nice little bar. I'll try a massage next time.

estebanis - 11-8-2010 at 08:47 PM

Glad to hear about the road. We are heading down in a week and a half. Can't wait!
Esteban :bounce:

BajaBlanca - 11-10-2010 at 07:01 PM

years ago we stopped by coyote cal's and no one mentioned Hai nor massages .... ohhhhhhhhhhhhh just wait til next time !! :yes:

bajabass - 11-10-2010 at 07:43 PM

Worth a stop, and Rick has like 50 different tequilas in the bar! :lol:

woody with a view - 11-10-2010 at 07:54 PM

a friend/co-worker of Bia's fished from shore at a spot called "la concha" out there. they seem to think it is the mother lode for a group of 17 Mex-American campers. they claimed the chorros, langostas, pescados and ceviche were unreal.... maybe we have been going too far south?

bajabass - 11-10-2010 at 08:10 PM

A couple nice reef breaks as well.

woody with a view - 11-10-2010 at 08:17 PM

we scoured the area 25 years ago.... back when i was 11. :rolleyes:

we prefer to drive 7-10 more hours to get at the real soul of baja reef breaks. you know, where if you break a leg, you're on your own. disregard previous 2 sentences.... move along, nothing to see here!

if it was easy it would be boring.

edit: add an "a"

[Edited on 11-11-2010 by woody with a view]

bajabass - 11-10-2010 at 08:28 PM

I have not surfed in over 25 years. Motocross and drag racing kept me away from the ocean for too long! Nice waves, 3 hours from the Cliffs, and nobody there!!!

woody with a view - 11-10-2010 at 08:31 PM

you have yours, we have ours.....

salud!

Mike99km - 11-10-2010 at 08:37 PM

Look south for Barred Surfperch from the rocks.
Mike M

bajabass - 11-10-2010 at 08:38 PM

Mine will be La Paz soon, but I was REALLY bored last weekend, and just had to get out. My legs are a little to torn up for surfing anymore, but the area is great to look at. Maybe I'll follow one of DavidK's maps and share the surf fishing with you some day! :light:

Just joshin Woody, I find my own way around. :biggrin:

woody with a view - 11-10-2010 at 08:45 PM

no worries, Mate! i've shared many u2u's with others and actually met a handful of Nomads "out there".

it would make a great road trip from la paz sometime. u2u for details....

bajabass - 11-10-2010 at 08:59 PM

I have a friend that spends some time in Santa Rosalalita pretty often, and it's on the list. Somehow I knew that would be your response Woody! :yes:

Honestly though, if you have 2 days, and not 5. Give it another try. Surf, fish, clams, heckuva view, and a massage up on the hill! :light:

woody with a view - 11-10-2010 at 09:06 PM

2 day = a weekend.

5 days = an adventure.

i get it, but we plan our trips around the vagaries of the sun, moon, tides, swell, work, homelife, etc...... see you out there!

bryanmckenzie - 11-15-2010 at 03:40 PM

Hi BajaBass,

At first, this reads like you took the coast road south from La Bocana to Erindira. But upon a re-read, it sound like you drove back to Highway 1? Then south to the turnoff. And the new pavement you refer to is NOT on the coast road, but rather the road to the Ejido? Yes? YIPPEE. It was awful late 2009.

Last year (Sept 2009), I drove the dirt road from overnighting at Coyote Cal's northward in a VW Jetta. Stayed for a few afternoon hours near Punta Cabras at Calavera with owner Manuel Arce. No one down on his beach except myself. Downed a few beers, tried surfing, got some tan (no tan lines on this trip) and then continued driving Northeastward towards Santo Tomas. Moderate graded dirt road. Can't really get lost if you follow the "main" track. And can't really damage a vehicle if you take it slow.

My web page contains all the info Nomads might need, including large maps of surf spots, map of the clockwise route, loads of photographs, Google Earth 3-D screen capture, and of course, my Nomad musings ... CLICK HERE Awesome little circuit if you have not yet done it, rewarded with spectacular views, sunsets and friendly people.

Quote:

Originally posted by bajabass
Got real bored Saturday morning and decided to head out to La Bocana. The construction south of Maneadero is not too bad, a little dusty, but goes pretty quick. I hit the dirt road out to La Bocana, and it is in pretty good shape. As usual the views were spectacular! OK, it is still early. On to Erindira!
I made fast work of the road out of La Bocana, and jetted a little further south to the Erindira turnoff. Freshly paved! Everything but a 1 mile stretch is the newest, smoothest blacktop I have seen! Stopped by Coyote Cal's and met Rick, had few XX's and a shot of patron. He mentioned the dirt road that follows the coast north, then cuts through valleys dumping you out behind the school in Santo Tomas. Sounds good to me, I ask my current navigator, Winston the Baja mutt, he nods and smiles, and off again. Probably 10 miles of coast, with fantastic views, then about 20 or so of valley after valley, a couple ranches, lots of livestock, and everybody I saw waved and smiled!! A great drive!!! :yes:

[Edited on 2010-11-15 by bryanmckenzie]

A great campsite - 1989

Pompano - 11-15-2010 at 04:10 PM

Bajabass, sure sounds like a great way to spend the day tome.

Been there, done that. Here is a shot of the Erindira coastal road.....Near the 'White Tanks'..anybody remember?

Bob & Evelyn, The M & M's and Me in middle camper hauling my Vulcan and Harley north. Representing Mulege river valley, Pta. Arenas, Coyote Bay in spring of 1989.

bajabass - 11-15-2010 at 04:23 PM

Yes Bryan, that is how I went. Into La Bocana and out on the same road, then south to the Erindira turn-off. From Cal's, I took the fireroad about 30 miles, exiting in Santo Tomas, right behind the school.
Looks the same Pomp! Only 2 cars there, Saturday and Sunday. The road north is a great drive!

bajanow - 12-2-2010 at 11:51 AM

In 1976, two of us drove to Erindera because it was close and the lonely coast offered surfing and camping potential. Minimal population in the farming village, smallest of home tiendas and no other conveniences. No other gringos camping and no signs of recent camping. There were silvery olive orchards to see on the drive to the coast. Our destination was a rocky “thumb” peninsula that yielded sweeping views north and south. Unfortunately, it was Spring, and the weather was foggy and drizzly. The damp made the red clay soil an undesirable place to set-up our orange Big-5 pup tent. (We also had a Styrofoam cooler for our supplies in the back seat of our Ford Pinto.)

We decided to drive further south. Consulting the AAA map, it appeared that we could save some miles by taking a right turn off the road back to the highway, cross a dry wash and return to Mex 1 further south. We turned into the wash and followed twin tire tracks across hard packed sand and scattered bunches of grass. About 300 yards after the turn we approached a water crossing. I told the driver to stop and got out to investigate. I walked up to the river and although shallow looking, the far bank was steep and muddy. To risky to try in a Pinto with minimal ground clearance and stock tires. I waved off the driver and indicated he should back-up. Driver did back up but turned off the hard pack tracks to do a “Y” turn. Not good.

He backed a car length off the hard pack, put it in gear and immediately spun the rear wheels. The sand quickly turned to quick sand. The water table was about 6 inches below the surface. In seconds the rear wheels were in spinning muddy holes filled with water. The Pinto was resting on the body pan. The drizzle was turning into rain and I was wondering about a flash flood due to the sound of distant thunder. We threw rocks and branches under the wheels, but to no avail as the quick sand swallowed our offerings. Soon we were standing in muddy pools of water too.

Out of nowhere two Mexican labors appeared. One energetically ran about gathering bigger rocks and branches to throw under the rear wheels while the other repeatedly offered us a cigarette with a shaky hand, DTS I think. None of their efforts got the Pinto free. Time past, the sky darkened and the river rose. We were muddy and soaked and worried.

Up road a well dressed rancher on a well put together horse. He sized up the situation and shouted, “Francisco, Jose, rimma, tablon!!” Off the worker ran. They quickly returned rolling a 19" truck rim and shouldering a 12' x 8" x 4" beam. Archimedes was right. The four of us placed the fulcrum and lever behind the rear bumper and the Pinto’s rear was lifted skyward by the weight of the beam alone. Shouts of joy, grins and hearty handshakes all around. (I think we gave Francisco and Jose a dollar each.) In seconds we were back on the road and off to our next adventure.

Bajahowodd - 12-2-2010 at 01:31 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by woody with a view
a friend/co-worker of Bia's fished from shore at a spot called "la concha" out there. they seem to think it is the mother lode for a group of 17 Mex-American campers. they claimed the chorros, langostas, pescados and ceviche were unreal.... maybe we have been going too far south?

Too far South. Funny you mention that. Years ago, we used to head out there a couple of times a year. Haven't done so in quite a while, and do head farther South. Gonna try it again soon.

One thing that bothers me just a bit, found on Coyote Cal's web site, in a couple FAQs, information that may be encouraging flaunting Mexican law.

From the web site:

"Mexico Travel Alert
How to get your Travel Mexican Visa

A travel visa is now required, but not enforced for road travel to our Mexican hostels, for destinations south of the Coyote Cal's Mexican Hostels you will need a visa! If you follow the below helpful hints, getting your Mexico visa will take only a few minutes and be without hassle. However, if you are only coming to the hostel, save yourself the $15.00.

1. You must have a valid passport,
and a certified copy of your birth certificate.

2. The easiest places to get your visa, called a FM-T are:

* At the border crossing in T.J. located in the "Declaration Area" to the far right of the entry gates. They also have a 24 hour bank. The office is located near the north pedestrian gate entrance.

* The Ensenada immigration office, now open 24 hours (7) days a week, is located at the first traffic light and to the right as you enter into Ensenada. Where the big speed bumps are and the shipyards are located. (Look for the "Migration" sign in the middle of the road island pointing the way.)

*
Federal Check PointThe immigration checkpoint about 20 miles south of Ensenada on Hwy (1), between the towns of Maneadero and Uruapan is no longer a check point. This is were the Army and Federal Drug Agents have their checkpoint. A very good reason you should not carry any kind of illegal drugs! (See Photo), Mexico stopped checking visas here in September of 1999 but sometimes sets up a surprise check point. If this happens don't worry. The immigration agent is in the van. He can issue you a FM-T on the spot. This is the easiest place to get your visa, but the agent can be more difficult. He may ask for payment because no one is watching him but do not pay anything at this location. If you are direct and polite and follow my hints you will have no problems and will not have to give the agent any money."

BajaWarrior - 12-2-2010 at 04:27 PM

Wow, this seems a little out of touch...(post above re: Coyotes Cal's)

It's more than $15.

You get yelled at and possibly sent back to TJ if you show up at Ensenada Migration for an FMT.

The checkpoint has moved south from it's previous location by about 10 miles and has been there for some time right above Urupan (turnoff for La Bocana de Santo Tomas).

DanO - 12-2-2010 at 04:35 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by BajaWarrior
Wow, this seems a little out of touch...(post above re: Coyotes Cal's)

It's more than $15.

You get yelled at and possibly sent back to TJ if you show up at Ensenada Migration for an FMT.

The checkpoint has moved south from it's previous location by about 10 miles and has been there for some time right above Urupan (turnoff for La Bocana de Santo Tomas).

Also, since the relocation of the checkpoint, I have never seen migracion set up there.

BajaBlanca - 12-2-2010 at 04:39 PM

well, at immmigration this past week, I heard that everyone must get the tourist visa in tj

no more ensenada or anywhere else unless you want to pay a $100 fine.

Bajahowodd - 12-2-2010 at 04:44 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by DanO

Quote:

First off, I understand the idea of trying to get as much business as possible. Second, it seems to me that they are paying someone to maintain the site. Old info remains, because they didn't feel like paying for an update.

Also, since the relocation of the checkpoint, I have never seen migracion set up there.

wilderone - 12-3-2010 at 09:50 AM

Yes, it is a cool place to camp. Next to this point, there was a little beach with decent body surfing waves.

Great hiking along the craggy volcanic cliffs

Cuidad!!

durrelllrobert - 12-3-2010 at 10:21 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by bajabass

I made fast work of the road out of La Bocana, and jetted a little further south to the Erindira turnoff. Freshly paved! Everything but a 1 mile stretch is the newest, smoothest blacktop I have seen!

didn't stop at the abalone farm to pick up some fresh ones?

David K - 12-3-2010 at 11:31 AM

Quote:

Yah, several errors... what are you going to do... ?

We hear all different 'facts' about FM-T or FMM. There was a check point just south of Maneadero for Tourist Cards until the 1990's... but you could just breeze right past. At least, there was signs telling Tourists the need for such paperwork before going on south. It was so much calmer getting the card there then at Tijuana!

Today, nada is signed along any road in Baja telling tourists what their limits of travel are... 72 hours or 7 days in border zone? Border zone goes to Maneadero, San Quintin, or Guerrero Negro (Eagle Monument)???

It is so sloppy and weak, I really don't think they care... but love any chance to extract money, for any reason. Typical government stuff.

The Tourist Card was FREE until mid 2000.

That new tourist tax or fee reduced the casual family vactions to Baja ($20 per person for a family of 4-6 or more before you even are starting you drive in Baja is nuts).

Then the attack of 9-11-01 caused a big increase in border wait times... and all the recent changes at San Ysidro they advertised to speed things up hasn't helped at all. The trip back north is the only negative part of a Baja vacation IMO.

Next came all the Narco War activity and bad press about Mexico.

Now, the U.S. economy crashing for the past 2 years, that has prevented so many from vacationing...

The poor folks in Baja who have depended on tourism for their income have just so much going against them!