BajaNomad

considering La Paz to Semi Retire

DrG - 12-11-2010 at 07:33 AM

We have added La Paz to the areas we are interested/possible early or part time living to retire to. We are looking at Rosarito, Ensenada and now La Paz. I appreciate all who have answered the last post with multiple good and useful information with regards to Rosarito and Ensenada. I would appreciate any and all comments comparing the 3 areas. We are looking for a place that is not remote of others, but enjoy the community type of environment with others of the same mindset, healthy active ex-pats, with a love of the culture and the people of Mexico

Howard - 12-11-2010 at 08:51 AM

Radically different weather. Look at the weather charts for the different times of the year.

[Edited on 12-11-2010 by Howard]

David K - 12-11-2010 at 08:55 AM

Many norteamericanos who live in La Paz leave from around or soon after June to October to avoid the heat/ humidity and hurricanes. It is about the same latitude as Hawaii, only more desert-like.

You will get a lot of input here, so stay tuned...

Bob H - 12-11-2010 at 09:06 AM

We absolutely love La Paz... and the surrounding areas... but year round might be tough. Very hot in summer.

comitan - 12-11-2010 at 09:52 AM

My 2cents, La Paz is definitely livable Middle of October through middle of August. I was in Maryland in August this year and sure wished I was back in La Paz otherwise anyone from the east coast could live in La Paz very comfortably I also think that goes for anyone from the south.

oladulce - 12-11-2010 at 10:43 AM

DrG, you might try looking here also Talk Baja . Often more direct responses to honest questions. A little more Baja-living oriented, and a very friendly atmosphere. Some of the same folks as here, and some very generous folks with lots of La Paz -living info. Try a forum Search for questions and answers about La Paz by Soulpatch and Bajabass as they research(ed) living there.

On both sites, try a google search such as "La Paz living, BajaNomad" or the same with "TalkBaja". Often the search function on the forums don't reveal the wealth of info that's already on there about your topic. (6 years on here and i just learned that- duh!)

Once you decide that La Paz may be an option and you have more specific questions, there is also a Yahoo forum called "La Paz Gringos" where I've gotten some good info about where to find things in the city or La Paz-living info in general.

Bajafun777 - 12-11-2010 at 12:39 PM

DrG, fly into La Paz and stay at the Marina Hotel ask for Gabriela who works the front desk. If she is there tell her Donna and Gary said she might be able to assist you in looking around the city. I would strongly suggest you lease for 4 to 6 months to get the real life experience of what you will be living every day once you buy down there. WE really liked this city and have been to numerous cities in Baja and Mainland.

Gabriela is a very nice person and took us to some very nice places to see what the city had to offer. She is the person that voluteered to help get around when our jeep had to be left in La Paz to be repaired. She asked for nothing in return but we definately we rewarded her assistance before we left. Honest good person and just someone enjoying life and helping make Mexico a little better place.

She will also be able to get you a good price on a rental car once you are there. Just take the taxi from the airport to the Marina Hotel. Lots of places to lease or rent just get the leads that will come once you start seeking them. Heck, some of the nomads here that live in La Paz for dinner and a few cold ones might show you around also,LOL. Again, nice place and we walked around at night without any problems so you have a good choice to check out in La Paz. Take Care & Travel Safe------ bajafun777 "No Hurry, No Worry, Just FUN"

Bajafun777 - 12-11-2010 at 12:45 PM

In Rosarito try looking at leasing in Las Gaviotas and negotiate the price not the weekly rates that are really just smoke of what the real price of leasing long term of 4 months or more will get you there. You just have to bargain well as many of the homes are really hurting for renters and love to find people of good character that will take care of their homes if leased for a good price. Good security 24/7 so your car, self and possessions safe when staying here. Great pool, hot jacuzzi, great seculed beach and really nice friendly people there. I lease there for 4 months and going back again in June to do it all over again, really liked it and several nice place to go to eat, dance and enjoy yourself close to this place. Several bajanomads also live there on this site also. Take Care & Travel Safe---- bajafun777 "No Hurry, No Worry, Just FUN"

BajaBlanca - 12-11-2010 at 12:46 PM

One of the most beautiful places I have ever seen - south of La Paz - is LA VENTANA.

roamingthroughbaja - 12-11-2010 at 01:50 PM

Summers are fine if you use the 3 S's. Swim, shade, siesta! August and September are the hottest, but when I think of the 8 months of cold, damp, overcast misery that we put up with on Vancouver Island, 2 months of sweating is worth the trade!

bajacalifornian - 12-11-2010 at 03:15 PM

Travel. Leave San Diego and America behind and travel. Stop in Ensenada and the region before. Spend time in every town until Cabo. Do it again and again. Cortez side is friggin' hot in the summer. Consider climate. Pacific side is like San Diego. Consider shopping, and movies and cultural stuff. Make it right for what you like. It's all here.

bajacalifornian - 12-11-2010 at 04:26 PM

You have a lot of free time. Fishing, photography, drinkin', no se.

bajacalifornian - 12-11-2010 at 04:31 PM

Articles you put off, build a study, with a view of the sea . . .

bajacalifornian - 12-11-2010 at 04:34 PM

mountains, and motorcycles, and four wheelers, and desert racing and Comondu and the mangroves, and the culture and living with Mexicans who never have a negative comment

bajacalifornian - 12-11-2010 at 04:45 PM

Size of the town. ?Like small town news, coffee clutch to darts to c-cktail hour . . . not much change in 24 hours. The Baja is small. You will meet the governor. If you need to talk to the president of your town, you do it. If you travel 3 hours, you will see friends. Same applys if you are in small, or larger. Need dentistry in Mulege? La Paz is close.

mcfez - 12-11-2010 at 04:58 PM

Will..... consider this: Will your family and close friends REALLY come down there to visit? Will you miss them?

Unless you own the secret Baja Peso Tree......flights can be expensive for love ones to visit. Time is another factor for them. Oh...and the fear of the drug cartels dragging them off to the deep dessert to be molested.

We picked San Felipe should we move to Baja. Least we can drive into the states to visit them often. I am a family man. I do need my family and my kids often. Do you?

Am curious to hear from other BN's (that's short for BajaNomad) (this short will be approved by our local word inspector) That has moved to Baja and miss out having family and friend near.

In any case DrG, I wish you the best on the move. Our native Baja folks are the best to live with.



[Edited on 12-11-2010 by mcfez]

Bajahowodd - 12-11-2010 at 05:01 PM

Climate is a major dif as compared to Rosarito and Ensenada. That said, La Paz has a more international vibe, in that many Europeans, in particular vacation there. It is the largest city in BCS, and that means a great deal of amenities, culture, a broad range of cuisine in the local restaurants, major shopping and services.

Other than the climate thing, when comparing to Rosarito and Ensenada, seems to me that many who choose to live in the Northern towns do so for relatively fast access to the border. If you live in La Paz, you face a couple of days driving to the border, or what I consider to be somewhat limited and pricey flights.

BajaDove - 12-11-2010 at 05:05 PM

living in La Paz, any time your on the water you're going to be comfortable.
the humidity problem Aug. & Sept. so you wash your pours from the inside, your hair curls, your skin shines. you look great. Drink a lot of water and do all heavy duty before ten AM or afther sixPM. It's great.

sancho - 12-11-2010 at 05:15 PM

As mentioned, the area around the Border,
Rosarito, Ensenada is quite a bit different
than La Paz, La Paz is my favorite city in Mex
a true Mex City, with a relatively small tourist influence.
It is easy to drive to Ros/Ens, where as La Paz is
1000 mi, so, of the Border. In my opinion,
La Paz is head
and shoulders above the Border region re:

things to do, such as outdoor activities , water sports,
etc. I don't want to offend anyone, but to me
Rosarito offers little more than an afforadable
place close to the Border. Ensenada offers somewhat
more. I not so sure it is fair to compare the 2
areas

Bajahowodd - 12-11-2010 at 05:18 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by sancho
As mentioned, the area around the Border,
Rosarito, Ensenada is quite a bit different
than La Paz, La Paz is my favorite city in Mex
a true Mex City, with a relatively small tourist influence.
It is easy to drive to Ros/Ens, where as La Paz is
1000 mi, so, of the Border. In my opinion,
La Paz is head
and shoulders above the Border region re:

things to do, such as outdoor activities , water sports,
etc. I don't want to offend anyone, but to me
Rosarito offers little more than an afforadable
place close to the Border. Ensenada offers somewhat
more. I not so sure it is fair to compare the 2
areas


Only with respect to one's personal needs and preferences.

rocmoc - 12-11-2010 at 05:39 PM

I looked at the historical weather and temps are very close to Southern AZ but with LESS moisture. This brings up the question how to stay cool other than in a pool or the sea. Do you use swamp coolers? We do until the monsoon season kicks in fully then we have to use AC. We get moisture from both baja/the west and mainland Mexico/the east so the swamp cooler become useless. After full kick of the monsoon seasson, AC is the only solution except jumping in the pool.

rocmoc n AZ

fixtrauma - 12-11-2010 at 06:45 PM

Welcome to Baja Nomad DrG!

Linda and I really enjoy the time that we are able to spend in the La Paz area. Linda's brother moved to La Paz in 1955 and most of his family remains there to this day.

We often talk about how our shoulders drop an inch or two when we arrive in La Paz because of how things slow down for us. We actually sit down and visit! Spend time down on the Malecon to walk, sit maybe have a paleta or two and watch the sunset.

We have developed so many friendships in the area. Reminds me of small town. One story......I had a blow out on one of the van tires while on a main street in La Paz. So I pulled into a parking area close to the street. While I was under the van (working the jack) and my legs sticking out, two different friends who were driving by either recognized the van or my white legs and stopped to help! We live in a town here in Oregon of about 16,000 and would have been more surprised if that would have happened here!

There are many other things to take into consideration when choosing a place to invest time and life than the ones that I have described but this is just an example of why La Paz is our second home at this time. Plans are to spend much more time there when we can.

BTW....it is not just La Paz.....we completely enjoy our drive down the Baja when we choose to drive instead of fly. What a great drive!

Again.......welcome to Baja Nomad.

DavidE - 12-11-2010 at 09:15 PM

Ai Chihuahua, La Paz is one hot enchilada in summer up until October or November on one magic overnight when the humidity disappears.

I've seen many, many days in La Paz where the summer sun seared temperatures beyond 112F and then cooled down to the mid-eighties at night. In Cabo, where things are supposed to be grand year around I measured temperatures 104F and higher for 17 days straight in July. San Jose del Cabo was 109, and La Paz, was, well....

And that isn't dry heat...

Where I live 800 miles southeast in a direct line, June temperatures reach the high eighties, and sixty degree weather awaits just a three hour drive away and seven thousand feet higher. In December where it may get to 72 in San Lucas, we at at 84. Out sea temperature is 79F.

All of these comparisons are accurate.

longlegsinlapaz - 12-11-2010 at 09:21 PM

IMO, Rosarito and/or Ensenada vs La Paz = apples & oranges!! Totally different all across the board! Driving back to the border from Rosarito/Ensenada can be done in about 2 hours, driving back from La Paz is a 2-day drive for me, but oh what an amazing drive it is! You get to enjoy the rugged beauty of endlessly changing scenery & the warmth & friendliness of the Mexican people in many small towns along the way.:yes:

The vast majority of gringos that I know in La Paz & surrounding areas are full-time permanent residents. I actually know/know of fewer people who leave during the summer and/or hurricane season that I can count on one hand. There's a slightly larger group who have vacation homes or property here who maintain a residence in the states & spend a month or more here but the bulk of their time is spent in the states.

La Paz does have all that you stated that you're looking for....& so much MORE! But not everywhere is right for everyone. I think you should sit down separately & write a list of must haves, would be nices & absolute show-stoppers. Once you've each compiled your list, sit down & compare notes & come up with a mutual list of your perfect world. Then come back & share your results with us. We can advise what fits & what doesn't fit for the La Paz area.

I believe once you narrow your choices down to 2-3 places, then it's time to go spend some time in each of those places. Go with the mindset that you're looking for a place to live, rather than a vacation spot....I think it's important that you don't look at things through "vacation eyes". Are the amenities which are important to you there? Are they better in one place than the other?

Everyone ends up where they end up for a myriad of different reasons. There are almost as many different "flavors" to Baja as there are reasons different people are attracted to different areas. The La Paz area felt like home on my first visit & it has been my full-time home since 1999. Having lived my entire life in the Pacific Northwest, I was a little concerned about how long it'd take me to acclimate....that took me all of about 60 seconds!

As you do your research, if you have specific questions, don't hesitate to ask!:bounce:

DrG - 12-12-2010 at 06:51 AM

Thank you to all who responded. We are taking everyone's comments to heart and will investigate all 3 areas. We want to come to Rosarito and Ensenada in Jan. or early Feb. and then come again for a longer trip in June, perhaps going down to La Paz. Not sure if real estate in Rosarito or Ensenada is going up, down or staying the same. Can't imagine too much is going on right now with all the "bad press" at the border cities, but since we have not been there, I can't really comment. We need to go look and see how "small" the areas are, as we want a good social life, along with slowing down the pace and hopefully meeting people with our same interests. I am leaning towards Ensenda, seems larger and further south away from the border. My wife wants to be closer to San Diego and likes the feel of Rosarito, although we have not been there in 25 years. She grew up in Southern Cal. on the beach in Santa Monica. Wants that life style without the cost and hassle of L.A. We appreciate all the comments and please keep them coming so we have as much information as we can gather and who knows perhaps meeting some friends on this forum

MitchMan - 12-12-2010 at 08:52 AM

I vote for La Paz. If you wait for deals on Volaris like I do, traveling to/from La Paz can be cheap enough. The good thing about La Paz is that it has everything! Services, government offices, plenty of large supermarkets, furniture and appliance stores, materials supply stores and plenty of hardware stores, great medical and dental care availability, big hospitals, plenty of lawyers and accountants and architects, great down town area, the best and longest boardwalk in Baja or the mainland Mexico, numerous restaurants from fast food to haute cuisine, repair services, WalMart, Home Depot and a movie theatre to rival the Spectrum in Irvine, CA.

The kicker is that there is plenty of reasonably priced real estate available. Especially if you are OK living in real Mexican neighborhoods. If you want live only among gringos in a gringo enclave, you can find that too. Also, the airport is very, very adequate and very close to town. That's a plus, believe me.

Having said that, my favorite town is Loreto. Tried to build there a couple of times, but couldn't find anybody to build me a small casita.
The contractors were only interested in over charging me to build a big house only. Tried twice to build there, but gave up, went to La Paz and immediately found something grand for 1/3 the price of anything comparable in Loreto and benefited big time from the goods, services, and conveniences available in La Paz. Though, I still fantasize about a place in Loreto.

monoloco - 12-12-2010 at 09:06 AM

Personally, I'd stay away from Rosarito and Ensenada, there is just too much crime and violence and there is no indication of it getting anything but worse. It's likely that any real estate you buy there will decrease in value as more people flee. So far we haven't seen an increase in violent crime in Baja Sur, But that too could change if the Mexican government can't get a handle on the narco problem.

bajaguy - 12-12-2010 at 09:07 AM

Quote:
Originally posted by DrG
......I am leaning towards Ensenda, seems larger and further south away from the border. My wife wants to be closer to San Diego.............






Listen to the voice in your head......you will be happier. Just remember, in your life with the wife, you can be right or you can be happy. :lol:

Alan - 12-12-2010 at 09:48 AM

My personal choice was La Paz for all the afore mentioned reasons but based on your described desires with the exception of proximity to the border you may want to investigate Todos Santos. With the now completed 4 lane hwy it is only 45 minutes to La Paz

MitchMan - 12-12-2010 at 01:09 PM

Alan, how do you get to and from Todos Santos cheaply after you fly into the La Paz's airport from the US?


[Edited on 12-12-2010 by MitchMan]

bajacalifornian - 12-12-2010 at 02:06 PM

Speaking out of turn here, but I would rent a car. Plan to visit Todos Santos for sure, then go on to Loreto. In Loreto, you're only two hours from Mulege. Pop back to La Paz and return home with a southbound attitude.

bajacalifornian - 12-12-2010 at 02:09 PM

woops, I was talkin' to DrG

bajabass - 12-12-2010 at 02:58 PM

I just walked in the door from my umpteenth roundtrip from Orange to Ensenada. Having rented in La Mision, midway between T.J. and Ensenada, for 8 years or more, I decided on La Paz. Actually Dra. Bajabass and I made a mutual decision on La Paz. She has spent most of her life in Ensenada, and I have been corrupting the area between the border and Ensenada for over 30 years, off and on. We both love Baja Sur, but we need goods schools, and a growing need for doctors, and good fishing! Really, the climate is great for us, there are good schools and medical facilities, plenty of service and retail businesses to get what you need, you can fly to T.J. every day, inexpensivley if you book ahead, many, many housing options, the list goes on! Not to mention the FISHING, beaches, and endless exploring on and off the water. OK, time to load the truck AGAIN, and be back to La Mision by 7 for birria at my friends ranch. Oh, I'm keeping my little place in La Mision. I need a place near the border, my wife's family are in Ensenada, and I can escape the heat if need be!

absinvestor - 12-12-2010 at 04:05 PM

mcfez hit the nail on the head. In 1995 we sold our home in Colorado and headed to Baja to spend the rest of our life!! We were married for over 30 years and had two grown self supporting kids. We figured that with a house on the beach the kids would visit often. The problem is time. We were retired but both the kids work. They get two or 3 weeks vacation some of which is needed to do things other than travel to see mom and dad. During the two years we remained in Baja we returned to Colorado a couple of times and the kids each came to visit twice. My wife is not a complainer but I could tell that on every birthday or holiday that she really missed the kids. (At that point we didn't have grandkids.) After two years we decided to leave Baja and return to Colorado. With the excitement of living on the beach and traveling all over Baja I would never have thought that homesickness would have been an issue but it was!! We now have 6 grandkids so it would have only gotten worse. In 2011 we are going to return to Baja living but will only plan on staying in Baja during the Colorado cold months (after Thanksgiving and Christmas) and we will keep our Colorado home. Good luck Ron and Patty

MitchMan - 12-12-2010 at 04:33 PM

absinvestor, glad you disclosed an important dimension to the discussion on retiring in the Baja. Family that one leaves behind; important consideration. One of the reasons that my wife and I haven't taken up full time residence in Baja is because my wife needs to keep an eye on her aging dad who lives alone. We also have 4 grand kids and five children who live both in and out of California.

The way we cope is to have a regular casita in the Baja town of our choice near the corresponding airport (keeps the total travel cost down of getting to and from casita and the airport). Also, we budget $6,000 / yr for travel to and from Baja and for Visa costs and cost of maintaining a vehicle in Baja. We are able to visit the Baja 8 to ten times a year for 1 to three weeks at a time. Most of the time I go alone, though. Because the kids live all over the place, they come to our USA house for Xmas, New Years, Thanksgiving and some birthdays. We fly to them once a year, ususally for a grandchild's birthday. Also, we keep in absolute touch by skype Video Calls and videos emailed back and forth. This arrangement completely works with no one feeling a lack of contact or closeness.

Imho, if we didn't have to keep track of my father-in-law, we could consider living in Baja permanently and sell the USA house because we could fly out of Baja anytime we wanted on any holiday or special event easily on a budget of $6,000 usd per year. In fact, I am sure the travel budget could be easily cut in half and have a net overall savings as living in Baja is quite a bit cheaper than in the USA.

The real point is that if you were to live full time in Baja, your kids that do not live within five hundred miles of you in the USA, you wouldn't be seeing them anymore or any less than you do now. Three of my kids live within 80 miles of me now and I don't see them much more than birthdays and holidays now as they are all very busy with thier own kids, careers and school. Quite frankly, that's quite enough for me.

Ensenada

bajaguy - 12-12-2010 at 04:44 PM

Is 90 minutes away from the San Diego airport (we have SENTRI :lol:).......and Southwest Airlines flies anywhere I need to go...........

Daughter, son-in-law and grandkids in Cincinnati, OH and the other daughter is in Nashville, TN

Alan - 12-12-2010 at 05:18 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by MitchMan
Alan, how do you get to and from Todos Santos cheaply after you fly into the La Paz's airport from the US?


[Edited on 12-12-2010 by MitchMan]
Actually they would have a choice to fly into LAP or SJD and then bus connections could be made to TS. Because he said semi-retired I assumed they wouldn't be flying in very often.

krafty - 12-12-2010 at 05:21 PM

monoloco it is folks like you that keep the fear alive-Rosarito is a beautiful little town-quit knocking it!

Bajahowodd - 12-12-2010 at 05:30 PM

I would ask any of the Todos Santos fans to clarify something. Personally, I missed an opportunity to buy there in 1989. Today, it seems to me that real estate prices are in the stratosphere. I recall someone referring to it as Sedona South. From what I can see, La Paz does not suffer from overheated real estate prices. Hey, if for some reason, I could buy a similar property in Todos for what I could pay in La Paz, I'd choose Todos, especially as someone noted, the four lane now makes it easy to go to La Paz for shopping and dining. That said, La Paz appears to have greater value for the buyer.

monoloco - 12-13-2010 at 08:58 AM

Quote:
Originally posted by krafty
monoloco it is folks like you that keep the fear alive-Rosarito is a beautiful little town-quit knocking it!
Sorry, I guess I was wrong, there is no crime problem in Northern Baja.

monoloco - 12-13-2010 at 09:03 AM

Quote:
Originally posted by Bajahowodd
I would ask any of the Todos Santos fans to clarify something. Personally, I missed an opportunity to buy there in 1989. Today, it seems to me that real estate prices are in the stratosphere. I recall someone referring to it as Sedona South. From what I can see, La Paz does not suffer from overheated real estate prices. Hey, if for some reason, I could buy a similar property in Todos for what I could pay in La Paz, I'd choose Todos, especially as someone noted, the four lane now makes it easy to go to La Paz for shopping and dining. That said, La Paz appears to have greater value for the buyer.
I think that if you investigate you will find that prices have come down quite a bit from their high.

absinvestor - 12-13-2010 at 08:16 PM

To MitchMan- We created part of our own problem because we travel with two dogs (Golden Retriever and Aussie Shepherd.) Because of the dogs, flying does not work for us. Our situation with the kids is similar. We see them during the birthdays etc but not much in between. Like you, I love the kids but that is enough for me. Unfortunately, even though we might not see them anymore, keeping our Colorado home is a must to keep the wife happy. With two kids and 6 grandkids birthdays or major holidays happen every month for us!!! My wife of 43 years doesn't ask for much but if she is homesick it takes the fun out of living in Baja for both of us. Ron

mcfez - 12-14-2010 at 07:14 AM

Quote:
Originally posted by MitchMan
absinvestor, glad you disclosed an important dimension to the discussion on retiring in the Baja. Family that one leaves behind; important consideration. One of the reasons that my wife and I haven't taken up full time residence in Baja is because my wife needs to keep an eye on her aging dad who lives alone. We also have 4 grand kids and five children who live both in and out of California.

The way we cope is to have a regular casita in the Baja town of our choice near the corresponding airport (keeps the total travel cost down of getting to and from casita and the airport). Also, we budget $6,000 / yr for travel to and from Baja and for Visa costs and cost of maintaining a vehicle in Baja. We are able to visit the Baja 8 to ten times a year for 1 to three weeks at a time. Most of the time I go alone, though. Because the kids live all over the place, they come to our USA house for Xmas, New Years, Thanksgiving and some birthdays. We fly to them once a year, ususally for a grandchild's birthday. Also, we keep in absolute touch by skype Video Calls and videos emailed back and forth. This arrangement completely works with no one feeling a lack of contact or closeness.

Imho, if we didn't have to keep track of my father-in-law, we could consider living in Baja permanently and sell the USA house because we could fly out of Baja anytime we wanted on any holiday or special event easily on a budget of $6,000 usd per year. In fact, I am sure the travel budget could be easily cut in half and have a net overall savings as living in Baja is quite a bit cheaper than in the USA.

The real point is that if you were to live full time in Baja, your kids that do not live within five hundred miles of you in the USA, you wouldn't be seeing them anymore or any less than you do now. Three of my kids live within 80 miles of me now and I don't see them much more than birthdays and holidays now as they are all very busy with thier own kids, careers and school. Quite frankly, that's quite enough for me.


That was me disclosing an important dimension to the discussion on retiring in the Baja.