BajaNomad

BEST PLACE TO GO WHALE WATCHING?

edimburgo - 12-20-2010 at 04:16 PM

Hi Nomads!!!!

we are heading south tomorrow( if the weather is not too bad). we'll be 9 days in baja and we wanted to know what is the best place to go whale watching in this time of the year. We have heard great things about Guerrero Negro and Laguna San Ignacio but which place should be better to go at the end of December?

Any suggestions about who to contact with to go out on a bout to see the whales?

Muchas Gracias

Cesar

tiotomasbcs - 12-20-2010 at 04:33 PM

The first whales enter El Ojo de la Liebre, I believe. G Neg, altho not beautiful, has many hotels and restaurants! My favorite is San Ignacio. Stay in Hotel and reserve tour and van out to the lagoon; easier and less beating on your rig Very pristine. .December is a little early. Let's see what other Nomads think?! Enjoy. Tio

Bajahowodd - 12-20-2010 at 04:36 PM

Cesar-

Nomad Shari is likely to be among the most knowledgeable you might encounter. My two cents, since I've viewed the whales in both the places you mention, as well as Magdelena Bay, is that given normal conditions, one is more likely to have a close encounter at San Ignacio.

However, given the mating and birthing cycle, the best opportunity usually occurs later in the season when the males depart and the females and their calves remain. December is not the best opportunity. If anything, I would suggest that you plan your whale encounter as part of your return trip. The later the better.

We've actually had a good experience in early March.

And, although I mentioned San Ignacio as the preferred choice, as early in the season as you'll be there, I would recommend that you contact these folks in Guerrero Negro. Nice Hotel. They do the tour leaving from their lobby. And they take credit cards.

http://www.hotelloscaracoles.com.mx/

DianaT - 12-20-2010 at 04:49 PM

BY FAR, we have had our best whale experiences at San Ignacio---and we love the town.

However, it is really early and our favorite people, Kuyima http://www.kuyima.com/whales/index.html don't even start to operate until the middle of January.

Many years ago we did see some in Ojo de Liebre in December, but.....

Shari' websites

mcfez - 12-20-2010 at 04:49 PM

Just adding a little more info...


http://www.bahiaasuncion.com
http://bahiaasuncionmexico.wordpress.com/
http://sharibondy.wordpress.com/

mtgoat666 - 12-20-2010 at 04:53 PM

dec may be a bit early for baby whales, probably won't reliably have babies until late January, but early season is best for seeing mating.

try kuyima in san ignacio. good outfit. if you get skunked after looking for whales for an hour or 2, ask to go on tour of mangroves. or even if you do see whales, still ask for tour of mangroves -- great birding, and fun to see mangroves at water level

SI nd SIL are a lot prettier than GN. GN is sort of a gritty industrial town.

malarimo's is best food, hotel and tour outfit in GN.

opinions are like arses, everyone's got one :lol:

[Edited on 12-20-2010 by mtgoat666]

Ken Bondy - 12-20-2010 at 05:15 PM

edimburgo

Here's something I wrote a while ago that may be of use to you:

"The California gray whale, one of the thirteen great whales (12 with baleen plus one, the sperm whale, with teeth), spends its summers feeding in the waters of Alaska. But late every year, in November or December, that old primordial bell rings, they hear it, and they head south, making the longest migration of any mammal. They swim over 5,000 miles down the Pacific coast of North America to mate and bear their young in three shallow-water lagoons in Baja California. North to south these lagoons are called Laguna Ojo de Liebre, Laguna San Ignacio, and Bahia Magdalena. Laguna Ojo de Liebre is also called Scammons Lagoon, named for the American whaling captain who discovered, in 1857, what the whales do there every year, and slaughtered them by the thousands in the rest of the nineteenth century. The whales were killed primarily to provide oil in lamps.

Considering that, something happens now in those lagoons that is incomprehensible. After being killed to the point of extinction, in the cruelest possible ways, these magnificent animals now actually seem to have forgiven us, or at least forgotten what happened to them in these lagoons. There is a behavior that happens in the lagoons every year now that defies explanation. They now actually demand interaction with humans.

Each of the lagoons has a thriving “whale-watching” industry which is regulated by the Mexican government. Tourists view the whales in small, motor-driven fiberglass skiffs called pangas. In a behavior described as “friendly,” certain whales regularly try to climb into the pangas with the tourists. It is unnerving when a 50-ton animal places its chin on the gunnels of your little boat. I have chased whales in all three of the Baja lagoons; and by far my favorite is Laguna San Ignacio. It is much more remote and difficult to access than the other two lagoons, and the facilities are limited. It is spectacularly beautiful in its isolation. In my opinion, based on my experiences in all three lagoons, more “friendly” behavior takes place in Laguna San Ignacio. A fringe benefit to chasing whales in Laguna San Ignacio is the chance to spend a little time in the small Baja town of San Ignacio, with its magnificent town square and old, beautifully preserved mission church.

Most of the friendly whale behavior occurs late in the calving season, in February and March, after most of the mating has taken place and when many of the males have left the lagoons and headed north. It is not unusual for a female with calf to literally push the calf to the boat, thus introducing the youngster to humans. The whales allow themselves to be touched, actually in many cases they demand to be touched; if you don’t scratch them they will move on to another panga.

The interaction between whales and humans in the Pacific Baja lagoons is one of the most amazing things I have seen in nature. It changes the life of almost every person who experiences it."

capt. mike - 12-20-2010 at 05:17 PM

yur way too early for mom and baby encounters.

Bajahowodd - 12-20-2010 at 05:40 PM

I wrote to Cesar on another thread he started that he might consider making a return trip in late February or early April. However, after all is said and done, if he checks in with the folks at Caracoles, Malarrimo, or for that matter even Cowboy, on his return trip, any one of these places is reliable enough to tell him what his chances will be heading out into the lagoon that early. Perhaps for a first-timer, just being able to float around and among some of these beasts will be enough to whet his appetite for a return trip more solidly within the season.

mcfez - 12-20-2010 at 05:57 PM

Very nice write up Ken Bondy.

Are you a professional writer? If not...you should be.

Loretana - 12-20-2010 at 06:03 PM

Mid February, San Ignacio Lagoon. You can't miss.

Stay at the San Ignacio Springs Yurts. Book the van with them and head out to the lagoon for a life altering experience.

Ken Bondy - 12-20-2010 at 06:07 PM

Thanks mcfez. No, not a professional, just a hack.

Brian L - 12-20-2010 at 08:00 PM

Sorry if this is a bit off-topic, but a couple of other questions:

1. What age kids are appropriate for the panga tours?

2. Is it permissible to bring your own rv to San Ignacio?

CortezBlue - 12-20-2010 at 08:02 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by Bajahowodd
Cesar-

Nomad Shari is likely to be among the most knowledgeable you might encounter. My two cents, since I've viewed the whales in both the places you mention, as well as Magdelena Bay, is that given normal conditions, one is more likely to have a close encounter at San Ignacio.

However, given the mating and birthing cycle, the best opportunity usually occurs later in the season when the males depart and the females and their calves remain. December is not the best opportunity. If anything, I would suggest that you plan your whale encounter as part of your return trip. The later the better.

We've actually had a good experience in early March.

And, although I mentioned San Ignacio as the preferred choice, as early in the season as you'll be there, I would recommend that you contact these folks in Guerrero Negro. Nice Hotel. They do the tour leaving from their lobby. And they take credit cards.

http://www.hotelloscaracoles.com.mx/


G Nego, lets see how long it take Kavid D to correct this?

woody with a view - 12-20-2010 at 08:07 PM

Quote:

opinions are like arses, everyone's got one :lol:


and they all STINK!!!!

Gaucho - 12-20-2010 at 08:11 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by blane
Sorry if this is a bit off-topic, but a couple of other questions:

1. What age kids are appropriate for the panga tours?

2. Is it permissible to bring your own rv to San Ignacio?


I took my 5 and 7 year olds there last April and they had a great time. We stayed at the Yurts on the river and used Kuyima to take us out. Yes, there are places to park an rv in San Ignacio.

DianaT - 12-20-2010 at 08:57 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by mtgoat666
dec may be a bit early for baby whales, probably won't reliably have babies until late January, but early season is best for seeing mating.


And that is quite a sight to see---watched this in January in San Ignacio Lagoon a few years ago---violent, it takes more than two to tango and the guide will not get too close.









Ken so beautifully described the close encounters, and they are wonderful, but the more distant experiences are also great.

We just hope you get to see some whales!

On edit, can anyone say how much more of the road out to the San Ignacio Lagoon was paved this year?

[Edited on 12-21-2010 by DianaT]

capt. mike - 12-21-2010 at 07:05 AM

wow those are some dorks.

ya don't often get to see whale porno.:lol::lol:

Marc - 12-21-2010 at 07:50 AM

April 2000 in BOLA we kayaked among a group of Grays. That was the southern part of the bay opposite Camp Gecko. A dead juvenile had washed up on the beach and I wondered if they were hanging around because of that. We heard their cries all the night before.

mtgoat666 - 12-21-2010 at 09:06 AM

Quote:
Originally posted by blane
Sorry if this is a bit off-topic, but a couple of other questions:

1. What age kids are appropriate for the panga tours?

2. Is it permissible to bring your own rv to San Ignacio?


1. any age, i've been out with infants and toddlers who either love the whales or scream with fear of the sea monster,... just remember it is a panga, y'all may get wet, it may be choppy and uncomfortable boat ride on windy day.

2. bring whatever vehicle you like. the washboard road will rattle your RV into 10,000 tiny pieces

Brian L - 12-21-2010 at 09:09 AM

So, after reading your answer to the RV question, I'm not sure if you are serious about the first one either...
Quote:
Originally posted by mtgoat666
Quote:
Originally posted by blane
Sorry if this is a bit off-topic, but a couple of other questions:

1. What age kids are appropriate for the panga tours?

2. Is it permissible to bring your own rv to San Ignacio?


1. any age, i've been out with infants and toddlers who either love the whales or scream with fear of the sea monster,... just remember it is a panga, y'all may get wet, it may be choppy and uncomfortable boat ride on windy day.

2. bring whatever vehicle you like. the washboard road will rattle your RV into 10,000 tiny pieces

mtgoat666 - 12-21-2010 at 09:26 AM

Quote:
Originally posted by blane
So, after reading your answer to the RV question, I'm not sure if you are serious about the first one either...

Quote:
Originally posted by mtgoat666
Quote:
Originally posted by blane
Sorry if this is a bit off-topic, but a couple of other questions:

1. What age kids are appropriate for the panga tours?

2. Is it permissible to bring your own rv to San Ignacio?


1. any age, i've been out with infants and toddlers who either love the whales or scream with fear of the sea monster,... just remember it is a panga, y'all may get wet, it may be choppy and uncomfortable boat ride on windy day.

2. bring whatever vehicle you like. the washboard road will rattle your RV into 10,000 tiny pieces


serious about both

the road is graded once per year, usually at beginning of season, but gets washboarded pretty quick after grading. it is 40+ miles of usually rough washboard, i suppose an rv can do it w/o rattling apart.

Brian L - 12-21-2010 at 09:52 AM

Quote:
Originally posted by mtgoat666
Quote:
Originally posted by blane
So, after reading your answer to the RV question, I'm not sure if you are serious about the first one either...

Quote:
Originally posted by mtgoat666
Quote:
Originally posted by blane
Sorry if this is a bit off-topic, but a couple of other questions:

1. What age kids are appropriate for the panga tours?

2. Is it permissible to bring your own rv to San Ignacio?


1. any age, i've been out with infants and toddlers who either love the whales or scream with fear of the sea monster,... just remember it is a panga, y'all may get wet, it may be choppy and uncomfortable boat ride on windy day.

2. bring whatever vehicle you like. the washboard road will rattle your RV into 10,000 tiny pieces


serious about both

the road is graded once per year, usually at beginning of season, but gets washboarded pretty quick after grading. it is 40+ miles of usually rough washboard, i suppose an rv can do it w/o rattling apart.


Ok, good to know, thanks! Probably best to stay in San Ignacio town, drive truck out to lagoon.

David K - 12-21-2010 at 09:54 AM

Road has been paved at least 10km. towards the lagoon... over a year ago... maybe more by this year?

Brian L - 12-21-2010 at 09:55 AM

Quote:
Originally posted by David K
Road has been paved at least 10km. towards the lagoon... over a year ago... maybe more by this year?


So, only 75% of rv would rattle off? Can you guarantee which 25% will remain? But then you have to drive back...

David K - 12-21-2010 at 10:11 AM

Like any washboard road... lower air pressure in tires and 'speed' will 'smooth' the ride. I don't recommend motorhomes off road... use your 'toad' or get one. Keep the moho on the pavement!

Ken Bondy - 12-21-2010 at 10:18 AM

The last time I was there we stayed three days with Kuyima in their little cabanas. Highly recommended:

BAJACAT - 12-21-2010 at 10:31 AM

We went to Ojo de Liebre, but it was a windy day, my butt still in pain from all the bouncing. also it's hard to take pix.overall it was a great experince for adults and kids alike,but I was toll that San Ignacio it's better for whale watching,that will be in my list when I go back..

[Edited on 12-21-2010 by BAJACAT]

Brian L - 12-21-2010 at 10:56 AM

Quote:
Originally posted by BAJACAT
We went to Ojo de Liebre, but it was a windy day, my butt still in pain from all the bouncing. also it's hard to take pix.overall it was a great experince for adults and kids alike,but I was toll that San Ignacio it's better for whale watching,that will be in my list when I go back..

[Edited on 12-21-2010 by BAJACAT]


Still a great picture. I think my kids would love it! They love petting the stingrays at SeaWorld, it's always hard to drag them away from that.

edimburgo - 12-21-2010 at 06:06 PM

Muchas Gracias a todos!!!!

felices fiestas!!!!!!

Cesar

shari - 12-21-2010 at 07:50 PM

Hi Edimburgo and welcome to baja nomads. There will most likely be only a few whales in Ojo de Liebre around Christmas...most people like to go when they have a chance to have a "friendly" encounter. But if you dont have a choice and can only go early in the season...there are some cool things that happen then too...like mating, and birthing, seeing a newborn pink baby gray whale is pretty spectacular...also sometimes a big pregnant mamma will have a midwife with here and sometimes they can be "friendly" as they are just hangin around waiting to give birth and not busy with a newborn calf.

Yes, mid february is best but the lagoons are very busy that time of year too so sometimes earlier or later is nice too as you might have a boat and whales to yourselves...just some thoughts on timing here.

whenever you go, have a wonderful trip and try to make sure the lanchero is respectful of the critters.

roadhog - 12-21-2010 at 10:13 PM

Kuyima is online. Excellent panga tour. Camping AAA tourist. The road is ferocious. Takes 6-8 hours at truck saving speed. Locals doing business over the road rebuild suspensions yearly at min. The Lagoon location is visually outstanding touring. Good tight tourist package with van transport or not. Bring your own everything - no commercial support there.

Camping at the salt works camp outside Guerrero Negro is a remote natural ecology. Periodically Windy. Hiking. I did not panga there or drive over to the seaside. The whale area is larger here.
GN is a NA company town, a mix of Baja and serious business. As I was reminded, GN food stores offer a limited selection for American tastes so bring your own. There is an American class superduper at Constitucion.

bring warm watre repellant clothing and warm clothing. There are cold snaps with strong wind.

roadhog - 12-21-2010 at 10:27 PM

Malarimo Malarimo at GN has a motel, wifi, food and panga tours.
Try both San Ig Lagoon and salt camping at GN. Its on the way.
Also use the Rice and Beans Oasis resturant/park camp/shower at San Ignacio Town. First Sharp Right when coming down the hill into town. WiFi, knowledagble Innkeeper. Kuyima has an office on the square. The Kuyima Lagoon innnkeeper speaks english.
read Moon's 'Baja' and Church's 'Camping Mexico's Baja'

David K - 12-22-2010 at 07:47 AM

Malarrimo: http://www.malarrimo.com

shari - 12-22-2010 at 08:28 AM

FYI...the "salt works" camp south of GN is actually a national park with a beautiful Interpretive center with a restaurant, gift shop and has palapas to camp in, all for $3 a night. the lagoon oceanfront campsites are large and you can hear the whales breathing at night...it is a truly spectacular, quiet, mystical place to visit. It was Mexico's first whale sanctuary.

wilderone - 12-22-2010 at 08:55 AM

Right on Shari - the camp at the Scammons Lagoon launch site, also has lots of birds, beach, indigenous obsidian flakes and scraper tools abound, fossil shells, hiking, palapas to shield from the wind; the prices at the restaurant are reasonable, hot coffee in the morning; nice patio to hang out. Even if you don't see many whales, a great place to camp and spend some time. You can drive about 45 mph on that road - good condition.

Great place to camp with lots of birds!

tripledigitken - 12-22-2010 at 09:59 AM

Quote:
Originally posted by shari
FYI...the "salt works" camp south of GN is actually a national park with a beautiful Interpretive center with a restaurant, gift shop and has palapas to camp in, all for $3 a night. the lagoon oceanfront campsites are large and you can hear the whales breathing at night...it is a truly spectacular, quiet, mystical place to visit. It was Mexico's first whale sanctuary.


The camper/pickup at the palapa campsite was ours, note no other campers that day. Restaurant/Interpretive Center is the white bldg.





Captains ready for whale watch customers at Interpretive Center and Restaurant



[Edited on 12-22-2010 by tripledigitken]

Ken Bondy - 12-22-2010 at 10:22 AM

shari, wilderone and Ken are all spot on about the whalewatch facility at Ojo de Liebre. A real bonus is the complete gray whale skeleton:

Brian L - 12-22-2010 at 10:44 AM

What is the latest you can see the whales at San Ignacio Lagoon? Is the last week of March too late?

DianaT - 12-22-2010 at 10:54 AM

Quote:
Originally posted by blane
What is the latest you can see the whales at San Ignacio Lagoon? Is the last week of March too late?


Usually not. Kuyima stays in operation until April 15. And there are a couple of other official operations that other people like -it is all very controlled. Both lagoons are a part of the Reserve.

If you are early, the camping at Ojo de Liebre is beautiful



But we have always had a more positive experience whale watching at San Ignacio then at Ojo de Liebre or Bahia de Magdalena. But everyone has their favorite places and hopefully you will have great experience.

Someone mentioned it taking 6 to 8 hours to drive out to San Ignacio? For the last several years when the road was the worst it only took us a couple of hours and it did not ruin the truck. Current truck is a 2003 and it has been out there at least once a year all but one year.

It will be interesting to see how much more pavement there is this year.





[Edited on 12-22-2010 by DianaT]

mtgoat666 - 12-22-2010 at 11:01 AM

Quote:
Originally posted by blane
What is the latest you can see the whales at San Ignacio Lagoon? Is the last week of March too late?


depends on when the last whales leave. often the wahles are good thru the second week of april,... but you never know.

with global warming trend over past decade, the whales have been arriving later each year, and whale counts have been down last few years, whales have been skinnier. ocean warming is screwing up arctic feeding grounds, me thinks.

or perhaps the evil russians and japanese are illegally hunting gray whales. whaling countries are truly evil.

Ken Bondy - 12-22-2010 at 11:02 AM

Quote:
Originally posted by blane
What is the latest you can see the whales at San Ignacio Lagoon? Is the last week of March too late?


In my experience late March has been the best time.

Ken Bondy - 12-22-2010 at 11:06 AM

Quote:
Originally posted by roadhog
The road is ferocious. Takes 6-8 hours at truck saving speed.


Wow, I did it in 45 minutes in 2002. That was in an H1 but the road must have really gone to hell for it to now take 6 hours or more.

David K - 12-22-2010 at 11:12 AM

Quote:
Originally posted by roadhog
The road is ferocious. Takes 6-8 hours at truck saving speed.


:o
Gee wiz... get a Toyota! :light:

The Roads.

DianaT - 12-22-2010 at 11:21 AM

Road to Ojo de Liebre



Road to San Ignacio



And I mentioned before that 2 hours was the longest it ever took us to get out to San Ignacio, and usually far less and that old 2003 truck with 165000 miles on it is a Toyota---:biggrin:

Ken Bondy - 12-22-2010 at 07:16 PM

Diane that second shot with the coyote is terrific!! You even got a vulture right on top of him :)

DianaT - 12-22-2010 at 08:06 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by Ken Bondy
Diane that second shot with the coyote is terrific!! You even got a vulture right on top of him :)


Thanks Ken---yup, seems like all the scavengers need to stick together. :biggrin: