dt and Ged's excellent baja adventure ride. Day 5, La Purisma to San Miguel/San Jose Comondu and back to LP the hard way...

Since before this trip started I knew that Ged wanted to spend some time exploring San Jose/ Miguel Comondu....and so did I. Shari Bondy (Bahia Asuncion) had posted a story a while ago about the area and I/we were looking forward to some exploration of the area. I had assumed correctly that one day wouldn't be sufficient to explore the area but that's what we had, we could always change our plans if we needed to....but I'm getting ahead of myself....we had to get there first.

We asked our host about taking the Northern route to SJMC (that's how I will refer to it for this story) and he said that it was not possible, the road was washed out. He recommended that we take the southern route in. Ged's buddies had planned to go through SJMC via the Northern route and on through San Javier on their trip South so we couldn't help but wonder how they made out.

After some discussion it was decided that we would take the Southern route (modified of course) in and inquire about the Northern route as a possible return path when we got there.

After a filling breakfast of water and a granola bar ( we still hadn't found food) we hit the road. We proceeded South on the tarmac looking for a dirt road "short cut" that would speed us on our way. We found the turn off and were going along just fine when Ged came to a stop in the middle of the trail. Staring at his GPS he stated (confidently I might add) that we were going the wrong way, we should have turned right a few clicks back. I pointed out that the route shown on my MAP indicated NO right turns from our current course to our destination. Ged was quick to point out that I wasn't in possession of the state of the art navigation equipment as was he and I should STFU and follow him....he didn't say it like that but I got the feeling that he wanted to.

So, back we went and turned off on the correct (according to Ged) trail. We stopped a ways down the road and I pointed out to Ged that there weren't any vehicle tracks on this trail, only some cattle tracks.....Not to worry he replied, it's right here on the GPS, lets push on...

After a while the trail turned into a path that turned into an arroyo that turned into a bunch of deep sand and bushes that the cattle weren't even going through.....

This is where it still looked like a trail...



I knew Ged wasn't enjoying our "as the crow flies" route but damned if he would admit that his GPS could be leading us astray. Sure enough, after crashing through miles of brush and traversing miles of endless sand woops (OK, I'm embellishing a bit here) we found a dirt road and followed it to the pavement. My GPS (I had one hidden) showed that we had saved about 1 mile of pavement in our short cut....I mean "alternate route". So be it, we were on our way....

There was new pavement most of the way to the town followed by a few miles of dirt road through the valley. This place is magical and pictures can't capture it. I will be posting a few but I recommend that you see Ged's thread on advrider for better pic's.





















We rode around a bit and looked for a place to eat.....no luck, so we stopped at a tienda for a Fanta naranja and a bag of chips....2 of the major food groups covered ( salt and preservatives). I was struck by how quiet the town was as we sat on the steps of the tienda. We spoke (kinda) to a local resident asking about the Northern route to La Purisma, he said "no es possible". We asked about the possibility of making it on a motorcycle and he said "maybe"..."7 guys came through here a couple of days ago on motorcycles".....OK, that settles it, if Ged's buddies made it (on dirt bikes, not dual sport sleds) we would at least have to give it a try......Peer pressure can be a funny thing.....and sometimes not so funny....

So with a renewed spirit of adventure we saddled up and headed North out of town.






We crossed the valley and headed up a rocky hill out of town. I was content following Mr. GPS up the next rocky hill, and the next....and across the rocky plateau to the next rocky hill and down the rocky trail ahead to the rutted rocky uphill that lay ahead to the rocky trail where I think I saw a bit of dirt below the rocks.....and then he stopped and stared at his GPS for a while......"Does your map show a place called Cerro Colorado"? he asked.....Yes, I replied, but it's not on the road to where we are going.....Well, we're almost there he replied, guess we'd better turn around and go back to SJMC.....That's just great, 5 miles of rocks for nothing....10 if we go back.....but back we went.

So, we made it back to where we should have turned off and turned off there. After a bit we came to the bottom of a particularly intimidating rocky uphill and we stopped. Ged referred to his electronic tour guide and proudly proclaimed that we were on the right road.

In the planning stages of this days ride we had considered the possibility that the Northern route may be more than we wanted to tackle on our dual sport bikes and we agreed that we could always turn around and head back if the going got too rough........sure, if you're wearing a skirt you can.....

So, there we were at the base of the first imposing obstacle (after the first 10 miles of torture we encountered following Mr. GPS) with a decision to make. Looking up the hill before us Ged asked "do you really want to ride 25 more miles of this crap or should we turn around and go back the way we came in?".....



This is where I made a Freudian slip that I would later regret. What I meant to say was "heck no I don't want to ride 25 more miles of rocks, let's go back" but what came out was a challenge of his manhood and a question of his sexual orientation for even suggesting such a thing........so on we went....

Peer pressure is a funny thing. It seems to be much more a "man thing" than a woman thing. My wife thinks I'm juvenile and act like a 15 year old around my buddies because I succumb to peer pressure and do stupid stuff.....she' right, I, like most men never got past my 15yr old mentality when it comes to peer pressure......fortunately, neither has Ged....this is going to be fun....

So, we continued on up one rocky hill and down the next. The trail wasn't getting any better but we were making progress till we came upon a long valley where the road disappeared into a ravine of television sized boulders.




This picture is before the bad place.....

I looked ahead and in the only patch of dirt for miles I could make out motorcycle tracks....Ged's buddies had indeed been through here. We wouldn't be able to turn back now, you could cut the peer pressure with a knife....

I walked the route we would have to take to be sure it was doable. Unfortunately for Ged, it was....barely....so off we went. I lead the way through, my 34" inseam helping me reach the ground...or the next rock as there wasn't any "ground" to be found. Ged wouldn't be so lucky with his 26" inseam......

Ged gripped the bars like a rodeo cowboy grabbing the horns of a raging bull. Gritting his teeth with determination he attacked the rocky section like a man possessed.






Oh, look at that pretty rock....I think I'll have a closer look..





Yep, that's pretty all right, wish I could get my leg out from under my motorcycle....









Hey Ged, where you going, come back.....

After slaying the rocky dragon we made it back to San Isidro and eventually La Purisma.





Where I headed straight for the tienda for some beer. I picked up a 6 pack and rode back to the motel. There was a couple from Colorado there and the new Canadian ambassador to La Purisma (Ged) was giving them the rundown of our adventure. They were a really nice couple and the girl was a dirt bike rider wishing she could partake in such an adventure. I didn't say much at first as I felt like I was holding the 1000lb elephant in the room.....the 6 pack of beer. I was really thirsty after our ordeal and I assumed that Ged was too and I didn't think 4 beers would be enough for the two of us so I was reluctant to offer our new friends a beer.......but after a long uncomfortable break in the conversation I relented and offered them a beer. They declined....Oh happy days, let the hydration begin.....

We had hydration and adult beverages covered but what we really needed was food, that granola bar for breakfast wore off a long time ago. I suggested a trip to a well stocked tienda that I had checked out the day before. They seemed to have all the necessities of life and it didn't take us long to gather up the necessary ingredients of a Baja feast.

We retreated back to the motel with our bounty, staked a claim to an outside table and commenced to prepare a meal fit for kings. We made chicken bologna burritos with goat cheese, avocados, tomatoes, cucumbers, and re-fried beans with potato chips and Fanta naranja to wash it down.





Half way through our feast our hostess Quilthy happened by and recoiled in horror at what she saw. She scolded us for eating such fare but by then we were stuffed and content.

We retreated to our chairs in front of our rooms and reflected on the days events feeling pretty pleased with ourselves for taking on and completing a tough challenge. After a while a man appeared and started talking to us in Spanish (of course) We did our best to follow along and it seemed that he was asking if we would like to come to his place for breakfast in the morning. I confidently took over the conversation and made reservations with him to have breakfast at 8:30 the next day......or we were going to fix breakfast for him tomorrow at 8:30.....I wasn't sure which but I figured we would sort it out tomorrow morning. He pointed out where he lived, we smiled and nodded our heads knowing that a new Baja adventure awaited us tomorrow and beyond......

To be continued.....

[Edited on 3-21-2011 by dtbushpilot]

[Edited on 3-21-2011 by dtbushpilot]

Uhhhh, that is a 29" inseam, stretch

After that ride and your encouragement/questioning of my manhood, I remember saying something about your judgement...and you pointed out "My judgement is not to be trusted!".

A great perspective on the ride...has me snorting with laughter

What a great trip report! It really makes me appreciate being a girl, and being able to simply get into my Honda and drive to these lovely little towns You give new meaning to the thought that getting there is half the fun.

So last time my girlfriends and i drove to La Purisima we ate at the restaurant in front of the hotel. I hope they are still in business, because their sopes were delicious, and as good as those burritos look (minus the boloney of course) we are always happy not to prepare our own food

Thanks to both of you for taking the time to send out these great illustrated reports, and happy trails to you!

[Edited on 3-23-2011 by Paula]

Love your trip reports David... another A on your card!

Any chance I can get you to take highlighter to a map and show us the roads/ trails you rode... ?

Quote:

Originally posted by David K Love your trip reports David... another A on your card! Any chance I can get you to take highlighter to a map and show us the roads/ trails you rode... ?

If the map I put above covers the area well enough, let me know... You can use your mouse to (right click) 'Save Picture As...' then make a copy of it on your printer from the file where you saved the map/ picture at. Take a highlighter or draw arrows along roads used or draw in roads not on the map. Scan the customized map. Upload it to Photobucket, and post it!

Easy right???

It's what I did for each new map I drew of Mike's trip!

You could come over here to O'side and we could do it here!

DK,
We took the main gravel road from the paved highway on the east side of Baja ...then the main road west out of LP down to Tres Marias....where the shortcut southeast started to the main paved road to Los Comondus.


The we rode north to LP via the road through El Pabillon....

Don't expect DT to do all that coloring...he didn't do well in kindergarten...

Quote:

Originally posted by motoged DK, We took the main gravel road from the paved highway on the east side of Baja ...then the main road west out of LP down to Tres Marias....where the shortcut southeast started to the main paved road to Los Comondus. The we rode north to LP via the road through El Pabillon.... Don't expect DT to do all that coloring...he didn't do well in kindergarten...

Or better yet, did you save a GPS trackof the route. I rode from Loreto via San Jose / San Miguel Comondu around the back way to San Javier last Spring and I think I know of the rocky sections you mention. Like banging your head on a wall, it feels good when it's over.