Baja Run Day 5, La Paz -- Redux

When last we spoke, we were departing Mulegè following a most wonderful breakfast at Hotel Serenidad. What a shame to hear just two months later that the dispute over the property has raised its ugly head again, putting the future of the place very much in jeopardy.

We had just a couple of particularly long days scheduled in the trip (approximately 300 miles) and this was to be one of them, due largely to my preference to get (and stay) as far away from Cuidad Constituciòn as possible at all times.

The first few miles south of Mulegè are some of the prettiest in all of the peninsula. The Sea of Cortez and those beautiful beaches are simply stunning.


Our photographer and his bride (so who took the picture?)



As we approached Loreto, we encountered the first and only major delay, southbound, at a federalie checkpoint. (That was to be more commonplace on the northbound leg.) They spent quite a bit of time unloading and rummaging through lots of stuff on the bikes. But it struck me that it was a particularly ineffective search. They would dig through an entire saddlebag liner without removing the liner. (Just mayhap someone might put something under the liner.)

In Loreto we lost a bit of time. The entire Baja run could be divided into equal thirds. 1/3 down to Loreto, 1/3 Loreto to Cabo and back, and 1/3 north from Loreto. My wife was (for the very first time of any of our many motorcycle tours) driving a chase truck. We figured to leave the truck with our friend, Reg, in Loreto so she could do that middle third of the trip on the back of my bike. Great plan. Too bad I had left the directions to Reg’s place on the kitchen table back home.

I led the group through Loreto to The Mission Inn, because I recalled he’d mentioned that being nearby. Then I began wandering the streets (on my bike) looking for anything familiar (like for instance his truck). Finally I pulled in at a nearby RV Park with restaurant and asked the proprietress. Ah ha! Not surprisingly, she knew Reg! So at last, I managed to locate his place, but he was nowhere to be found. Fortunately he had a very friendly and helpful neighbor (who pointed out to me that Reg’s gate was unlocked; DUH!). So we moved and secured the truck, and finally were able to continue southward. (Methinks my motley crew were getting a bit impatient to get on down to La Paz. Not that I blame them.)

I always find that day from Loreto to La Paz such a day of contrasts. Some of the most gorgeous riding of the trip and also some of the very least interesting.

I’d say we got through Ciudad Constituciòn with due dispatch but not exactly without providing some considerable merriment for the rest of my entourage. Fortunately, I didn’t pull this stunt right there, but rather in Insurgentes. As I approached the big Y (or is it a T) on the way in, the big sign said Mex 1 heads left. And so did I. Right into the one-lane connector coming the other way. With oncoming traffic. Oooops! Couldn’t back up. Moved over and through and made a highly questionable U-turn (now heading the wrong direction) followed by yet another U-ee onto Mex 1 south. Ta Da!!! The others, able to observe my screw-up and find a preferable route, made it through much more gracefully. Meanwhile, a cop was sitting right there (where I was making the second U-turn) and bleeped his siren at me. End of story. Wheeeew. Oh well, what’s a trip without hitches? But my buds were beginning to question the quality of their tour guide. (You get what you pay for!)

I really love La Paz. Of course I love big cities and la Paz is a very fine one. Rolling through on Obregòn is nothing short of spectacular.


What's to say?



One of the members of our group has an old time Navy buddy, Mike, who lives in La Paz. He had recommended Club El Moro.


What an outstanding choice.



We definitely were not suffering on this trip. Settled in for late afternoon at the poolside bar and then accepted their recommendation for a dinner destination.

Dinner at Bismarck Cito was without a doubt the most controversial meal of the entire trip. We sat at two tables (I guess 8 at each). One table had gotten there earlier and got quite good, very attentive service. The other table (mine), well, we might as well have been invisible. The service could hardly have been worse in any regard. Those who ordered the “special” ($$$$) were generally disappointed in their meals as well.


The "Special." Some loved it; most thought it overpriced.



My wife and I ordered off the menu and got some very reasonable and tasty local fish with which we were very pleased (if not with the service). Well, the strolling musicians were certainly enjoyable. But I doubt that place will be on any future “must do” list. (I have subsequently read that others’ experiences are not unlike ours.) As for us, the range was probably all the way from “one of the best of the trip” to “worst.” I think the curve was weighted toward “worst.”


As you can see, we were really bummed about the place



I had established a rule at the outset: Until further notice, while rolling down the highway in Baja, we were not to get separated. All nine bikes were to stay as a pack. This was not out of fear, but because I did not want to find myself without the full complement of bikes and having absolutely no way (short of heading BACK down the road) to find out what was up.

Our next day was different. We had a very short day (to Cabo). We had picked up Dennis’s friend, Mike, in La Paz (on a brand new bike), and mike’s friend, Alison. I wanted to stop in Los Barriles to visit very dear friends of Connie’s and mine of many years, Joann and Russ. I’m certain some of you down there know them. Wonderful people. (Pix to follow.) Some in our crowd wanted to get on down to Cabo. Some wanted to tag along with us and meet Joann and Russ. So we split up. No big deal, of course. But that’s for the next write up.

Thanks for picking this back-up. I enjoy the style and photo's. I would never take that many on a trip, but I don't play well with others. The running with scissors, doing things that could put a eye out and all.
MMc