BajaNomad - WASHBOARD ROADS

WASHBOARD ROADS

DENNIS - 5-24-2011 at 02:55 PM

Here's a question that has been on my mind almost forever and what better place than here on Nomad to get a definitive answer...or two....or.......

On a washboard road, what is the best method to drive over it...fast?...slow?
By best I mean for your vehicle suspension, tires etc.........and for your kidneys.

krafty - 5-24-2011 at 03:04 PM

fast-to get it over with as quickly as you can, I think.?!

Bajamatic - 5-24-2011 at 03:05 PM

driving over the top - speed depends on distance between the weaves. 35 usually does the trick. And air down.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CmxMQwhcVF0

[Edited on 5-24-2011 by Bajamatic]

oldlady - 5-24-2011 at 03:13 PM

My husband agrees with Bajamatic. They are ubiquitous in our neighborhood. I drive very very slowly, the rattle and bounce isn't any worse and the dust on my neighbors' laundry is a lot less.

Curt63 - 5-24-2011 at 03:15 PM

Faster is better but you have less control - ABS brakes may not work. Best to turn them off if possible.

Put it in 4HI if you got it for more control

Air down to 20 PSI or lower if you got beadlocks.

Good shocks are the key.

Drive on the berm if possible or look for the smoothest part of the road.

Careful if you touch the shocks to check temperature. Bajawarrior burned his hand but has an excellent remedy for that malady.

Duct tape all fillings in and get on it!

Mike99km - 5-24-2011 at 03:17 PM

I have never melted shocks by going slow, I have melted shocks though.
Speed is harder on the vehicle. Slow speed is harder me, I sometimes get upset when my beverage foams over.
At speed:
tires will break down
gas cans will show you where they leak
racks and the stuff in them tend to come apart
wash board is like a liquid wrench fro all things bolted
you don't have time to change things headed the wrong way

I still can't hold myself back sometimes and go fast. I understand the price and am willing to pay.

[Edited on 5-24-2011 by Mike99km]

[Edited on 5-24-2011 by Mike99km]

bajalou - 5-24-2011 at 03:20 PM

My experience is that the WORST speeds are between 15 and 25MPH.The vehicle is bouncing on the washboard and the suspension isn't doing what it's design to do. 35-40 and the suspension is absorbing the ups and downs of the road for a smother ride. 4-5 MPH and you go up and down with the washboard and are not hitting the bumps with force to cause big jolts.

comitan - 5-24-2011 at 03:21 PM

I'm also willing to pay the price!!!

mtgoat666 - 5-24-2011 at 03:21 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by DENNIS
By best I mean for your vehicle suspension, tires etc.........and for your kidneys.

best for you car is very slow. fast is OK for your car, but not better for your car than really slow. medium speed can cause a lot of wear and tear.

i really doubt you can damage your kidneys from driving bumps. it may feel like it, but the damage is imaginary, not real damage to your kidneys. probably what you feel is general fatigue from your body being jostled. if you got a big gut and poor muscle development in your trunk, you probably fatigue more easily with jostling.

bajajudy - 5-24-2011 at 04:36 PM

The old 4 or 40 rule
I lean toward 40 also.

BajaGringo - 5-24-2011 at 07:15 PM

We have 15+ miles of mostly washboard between us and town. The best compromise for body, vehicle and safety is 4-20-40.

4 wheel drive
20 psi
40 mph

CDB - 5-24-2011 at 07:20 PM

I definitely prefer to run on the tops. Especially in the Baja Bug.

tiotomasbcs - 5-24-2011 at 07:29 PM

Is that what they call it--4-40?? I'm with the air down--20lb and 35mph. However, when driving my Odyssey it's slow, slow slow! Fill up the cooler and fire a fattie! The Tacoma don't care but da Honda sys why hurry??

So many variables but easy does it! :cool:

Tio

Bob H - 5-24-2011 at 08:08 PM

Its a very good question. A lot of it depends on what you are driving. We drove our 4x4 Ford F250 with Lance cabover camper down to Gonzaga Bay on that very rough washboard road a few years ago. I had to go pretty slow or I would have rattled my camper to it's possible death. On normal roads I have 75 pounds of pressure in each tire, so airing down to 20 pounds they would be flat, because of the load. I did air down to about 50 pounds and we made it fine, with very little damage to the camper. However, it took us 6 hours to drive 40 miles or so.

But, it was worth it once we got there (had our kayak on top of the camper). The bay was slick as glass the first morning and we loved it!

Sublimity - 5-24-2011 at 08:24 PM

Fast...Fast...Fast

I hate the "beating" everything takes when going slow over washboard roads. However, it is much dependent upon what kind of suspension you are running. Shocks do make all the difference; it was explained to me that once "cheap" shocks fade they rarely come back, good shocks on the other hand will fade with heat but will restore once cooled. I suppose each must find their own happy speed!

BajaWarrior - 5-24-2011 at 09:55 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Curt63
Faster is better but you have less control - ABS brakes may not work. Best to turn them off if possible.

Put it in 4HI if you got it for more control

Air down to 20 PSI or lower if you got beadlocks.

Good shocks are the key.

Drive on the berm if possible or look for the smoothest part of the road.

Careful if you touch the shocks to check temperature. Bajawarrior burned his hand but has an excellent remedy for that malady.

Duct tape all fillings in and get on it!

Ah yes, a proven remedy!

Marc - 5-24-2011 at 10:10 PM

Fast as you can. My favorite road to really gun it is to and from La Gringa at BOLA. About 50-55 mph does it good. Dangerous though on curvy roads. There's zero traction. I drive a big 5.7L Tundra.

[Edited on 5-25-2011 by Marc]

Roberto - 5-24-2011 at 10:46 PM

bajalou is correct (of course). Above or below the full impact of the microbumps of the washboard. Below can be painfully slow. Above can be painfully punishing on the parts if they are not up to the job.

If you are NOT equipped for high-speed travel on washboard (i.e. stock suspension) bite the bullet and pay the price in speed or repairs, depending on your choice.

If you are - enjoy. It's an exhilarating feeling to "float" on the washboard - just don't slow down!

redhilltown - 5-24-2011 at 11:45 PM

I'm with Roberto on this! Either know what you are doing and have the truck and spare parts to do it with or slow down.

El Jefe - 5-25-2011 at 07:16 AM

We too live about 13 miles of bad road from the nearest pavement. So we get a lot of practice. We run the Pilot tires at 15 psi in all wheel drive. 4wd on a dirt road makes you track sooo much better. Never understood people that have it and don't use it, like they are saving it for something?? 35 mph does work well when road conditions merit. Faster on long straightaways. BUT you can't stop in a hurry. You just slide. We bonked a cow in the head the other evening coming home from dinner out. One side mirror damage.

An interesting thing I've found is that generally the left side of the road is smoother going up hill and the right side better on the way down. Most people stay to the right and the spinning and skipping of tires on the up-hill side cause bigger washboard.

To Paula and me the worst part of the drive is what it does to our spines. Low back, neck, you get the picture. But hey, its worth it to be here looking out at that beautiful blue sea.

BajaDove - 5-25-2011 at 07:17 AM

If you're going to go fast stop every ten minutes take a wrench and screwdriver to every nut and bolt, easier than looking for them when the car falls apart.

mrbotete - 5-25-2011 at 11:37 AM

If you're going to go fast stop every ten minutes take a wrench and screwdriver to every nut and bolt, easier than looking for them when the car falls apart.

It seems to me that stoping every ten minutes it would defeat the purpose of going fast or slow....timewise

But I get your point...this roads can really destroy your car nut by nut :lol:

wessongroup - 5-25-2011 at 11:47 AM

Thanks to all.. good information... it all helps...

inquiring minds want to know???????

mtgoat666 - 5-25-2011 at 11:49 AM

more interesting questions::::::

what wheel movement or driving style causes washboards?

do fast or slow drivers cause the washboards?
do particular vehicles cause more or less washboard formation?
should the responsible vehicles be cited/fined to pay for more frequent grading to maintain road?

are particular road beds better or worse at forming washboards?
why don't road contractors use better materials in road beds to prevent formation of washboards?
it seems to me that many road projects bring in crushing plants to prepare aggregate for road base, so why don't engineers specify better/best aggragate for use in road bed?

:?:

wessongroup - 5-25-2011 at 11:51 AM

According to Tom Pettigrew, a Forest Service engineer, the cause is an unlikely source: your car's suspension. (Well, maybe not yours specifically, but it's not innocent in this matter, either.) A vehicle's suspension system distributes the shock and energy of road irregularities with a bouncing rhythm called harmonic oscillation. At each downstroke, the wheels exert extra force on the road, causing the particles in the road to either pack or displace at regular intervals. Once a pattern of ruts starts to establish itself, it becomes self-reinforcing due to what engineers call forced oscillation. The next car hits the same irregularities in the road and bounces at the same rate, causing the pattern to become more and more defined. Forced oscillation overcomes minor variations in oscillation rate that might otherwise arise due to differences in car weight.

Wouldn't variations in speed affect the washboard pattern? Sure, which brings us to another critical part of the feedback loop: you, the driver. Drive too fast on a washboard road and the downstroke exerted by the car wheels may meet the road at a point where a bump is ramping upwards. You know what that means: You bounce off the ceiling. Instinctively most drivers slow to a speed at which the downstrokes coincide with the troughs between bumps, reinforcing the pattern.

Washboarding is inevitable in any unpaved road that sees fairly heavy traffic. The only way to avoid it is to: (a) radically redesign how automotive suspensions are made, (b) give up suspensions altogether, or (c) keep off those dirt roads.

bajalou - 5-25-2011 at 12:40 PM

I drove to Valle Trinidad from Highway 1 a couple weeks ago. There was a portion that had been graveled and it had terrible washboard. Then the gravel ended and the roadway was smooth dirt. - No more washboard on the dirt portion.

1bobo - 5-25-2011 at 12:52 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by wessongroup
According to Tom Pettigrew, a Forest Service engineer, the cause is an unlikely source: your car's suspension. (Well, maybe not yours specifically, but it's not innocent in this matter, either.) A vehicle's suspension system distributes the shock and energy of road irregularities with a bouncing rhythm called harmonic oscillation. At each downstroke, the wheels exert extra force on the road, causing the particles in the road to either pack or displace at regular intervals. Once a pattern of ruts starts to establish itself, it becomes self-reinforcing due to what engineers call forced oscillation. The next car hits the same irregularities in the road and bounces at the same rate, causing the pattern to become more and more defined. Forced oscillation overcomes minor variations in oscillation rate that might otherwise arise due to differences in car weight.

Wouldn't variations in speed affect the washboard pattern? Sure, which brings us to another critical part of the feedback loop: you, the driver. Drive too fast on a washboard road and the downstroke exerted by the car wheels may meet the road at a point where a bump is ramping upwards. You know what that means: You bounce off the ceiling. Instinctively most drivers slow to a speed at which the downstrokes coincide with the troughs between bumps, reinforcing the pattern.

Washboarding is inevitable in any unpaved road that sees fairly heavy traffic. The only way to avoid it is to: (a) radically redesign how automotive suspensions are made, (b) give up suspensions altogether, or (c) keep off those dirt roads.

Ran out to Punto Chivato the other day (freshly graded, BTW) and got to thinking about the physics of washboard formation. Thanks, now I have an answer!

shari - 5-25-2011 at 01:39 PM

I'm surprised nobody mentioned the following point....
All washboard roads are different and have different heights and widths of the troughs between the bumps and THIS is what you have to judge in order to regulate your speed. For example..normal smaller washboard with close "valleys" is generally better to go faster as it smooths out the ride...but you dont need to go super fast in which case you may lose control easily and skate around if your tires have too much air pressure.

In the good old days when it was washboard all the way here from Vizcaino, the section from rebombeo to the turnoff was awful big big topes like washboard and you could not use the go fast method or you would do mortal damage to your vehicle....as it is washboard loosend nuts and screws, dashboards, tire lug nuts, hoses and a myriad of other goodies.

so one can not really say that you can use the go fast rule on all washboard...man oh man, am I glad we dont have to deal with THAT any more except when we go visit baja blanca! or Russ!

BajaBlanca - 5-25-2011 at 02:00 PM

:lol:

not THAT is funny !!!!!

Baja12valve - 5-25-2011 at 05:40 PM

Soft suspension is also key. I have in cab adjustable shocks. I soften them to the max and it makes all the difference in the world. Stiff suspension is a real bummer, I have had them before and I will never have one again.

mcfez - 6-7-2011 at 07:38 PM

I fly it .....slow speed such as 10-20 mph is too jittery.......always knocking my false teeth right onto the floor

I will lower tire pressure a bit before doing the fly.

motoged - 6-7-2011 at 11:34 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by BajaGringo
We have 15+ miles of mostly washboard between us and town. The best compromise for body, vehicle and safety is 4-20-40.

4 wheel drive
20 psi
40 mph

4:20, eh !!!????

I was thinking there for a minute that you sparked up a fatty and ripped down the road at 40 mph....give or take a few.... :light:

motoged - 6-7-2011 at 11:35 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by tiotomasbcs
Is that what they call it--4-40?? I'm with the air down--20lb and 35mph. However, when driving my Odyssey it's slow, slow slow! Fill up the cooler and fire a fattie! The Tacoma don't care but da Honda sys why hurry??

So many variables but easy does it! :cool:

Tio

See....Tio gets it .... :lol:

bajamigo - 6-8-2011 at 06:36 AM

To summarize:

Traveling slowly accentuates the vibrations caused by a washboard road. The faster you travel, within reason, the smoother the ride will be as you tend to ride on the tops of the washboard instead of sinking down into it.

Traveling "with" the washboard tends to be a bumpy ride. Traveling "against" it is usually smoother. That means traveling on the opposite side of the road as you would normally. Do this only if you can clearly see ahead to avoid oncoming traffic.

Often the washboard portion of the road exhibits itself as two parallel tracks. It can sometimes be avoided by traveling in between the washboard tracks.

Last, but not least, be aware if you travel too fast you can loose traction with the road surface and slide off to the side, especially on turns that have washboard surfaces. So, if you're trying to avoid the vibration by traveling a bit faster than usual, be aware of the "grip" your vehicle has on the road so you don't travel too fast for safety.

ncampion - 6-8-2011 at 06:46 AM

It's interesting to hit the brakes firmly on a vehicle with ABS on a washboard road. It throws the ABS as the wheel speed is very irratic. Almost eliminates braking if going fast.

mtgoat666 - 6-8-2011 at 08:47 AM

in summary, driving on washboard surface is is not rocket science or brain surgery. use common sense! drive whatever pace makes you comfortable! if it feels good, do it! don't drive faster than is safe!
always remember: yes we can!

p.s. don't drink and drive!

DENNIS - 6-8-2011 at 09:06 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by mtgoat666
p.s. don't drink and drive!

Will your silliness ever cease?

Famous quote:
"A road-trip without Pacifico is like a day without sunshine"

bkbend - 6-8-2011 at 12:37 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by mtgoat666
more interesting questions::::::

what wheel movement or driving style causes washboards?

do fast or slow drivers cause the washboards?
do particular vehicles cause more or less washboard formation?
should the responsible vehicles be cited/fined to pay for more frequent grading to maintain road?

are particular road beds better or worse at forming washboards?
why don't road contractors use better materials in road beds to prevent formation of washboards?
it seems to me that many road projects bring in crushing plants to prepare aggregate for road base, so why don't engineers specify better/best aggragate for use in road bed?

:?:

My observation is the finer the road material the less the washboard. Fine material packs into a harder roadbed than coarse gravel and slows down the formation process.

David K - 6-8-2011 at 04:11 PM

Those of you who remember Timothy Walker (TimsBaja.com) may recall on his site there was a link to the scientific explanation for why roads corregate (become washboard). Perhaps some searching will bring back that link. In a nutshell, bad shocks (bouncing tires) cause the sand to colect in ridges was what I recall that site said.

In Harry Lewellyn's 'Shifting into 4WD' he says it is from high speed pneumatic tires (bouncing)... (Poor shocks allow a tire to bounce excessivly)

the whole truth about washboards

mtgoat666 - 6-8-2011 at 04:24 PM

After asking my question, i read the research. Info below seems to be generally accepted. Those of you that deny science, e.g. you global warming denialists, should read no further! Also, if you distrust the french, a common affliction of global warming denialists, you should read no further!

"...neither tyres nor suspensions are necessary to obtain washboard roads, although of course, adding a spring, a dashpot, a tyre or an engine would affect the size of the bumps. In other words, it is not because of the suspension of cars that washboard roads exist. The ripple wavelength is NOT simply the speed of the wheel times the bounce frequency of the suspension, which seems to be a common belief.

Another interesting result is that the size of the wheel and the size of the grains has no influence on the pattern. The mass of the wheel does however. ...using very fine sand (average size of 200 µm) and coarse grains (3 mm), we obtained an identical pattern."

from http://perso.ens-lyon.fr/nicolas.taberlet/washboard/

see also

N. Taberlet, S. Morris and J. McElwaine. Washboard Road: The dynamics of granular ripples formed by rolling wheels. Phys. Rev. Lett. 99:068003 (2007)

A.-F. Bitbol, N. Taberlet, S. Morris and J. McElwaine Scaling and dynamics of washboard road. Phys. Rev. E 79:061308 (2009)

David K - 6-8-2011 at 04:28 PM

Okay, so you quoted a Euro link about what is NOT causing washboard... Why did you leave out what DOES cause it (if not the shocks/ tires tyres)?

[Edited on 6-8-2011 by David K]

mtgoat666 - 6-8-2011 at 05:03 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by David K
Okay, so you quoted a Euro link about what is NOT causing washboard... Why did you leave out what DOES cause it (if not the shocks/ tires tyres)?

[Edited on 6-8-2011 by David K]

ok, in simpler words, the experiments found the following:

Granular materials of unpaved roads are are inherently unstable.

According to McElwaine, ripple formation begins because no road surface is perfectly flat. When a wheel encounters a random hump in the road, it rises up and falls back down, pushing a bit of material out of its way to create a trough and a second hump. Subsequent wheels continue this process and a pattern of regular humps and troughs emerges.

The researchers found that the wheel typically caused a small single ripple to form at one location in the sand after about ten or so rotations of the table. New ripples then grew rapidly from the single ripple and spread until the entire path of the wheel was covered in ripples.

The experiment was repeated using a different type of sand and again using long-grain rice. ...the researchers discovered that changing materials had little effect on ripple formation – suggesting that washboards cannot be avoided by using a specific type of material in road construction.

Indeed, the experiments and related computer simulations revealed that ripple formation is governed only by the speed of the wheel, its weight per unit width and the density of the granular material. Ripples were not seen when the wheel was kept below a critical speed – about 8 km/h for a car – leading the team to conclude that at higher vehicular speeds a flat road is unstable and will quickly become rippled.

The study also suggests that heavier wheels will produce smaller ripples because their greater mass inhibits the vertical motion required to make a washboard.

=================

perhaps if y'all stayed below 8 k/hr there would be no washboards. Or if y'all drove really heavy vehicles, the washboards would be smaller and perhaps more comfortable.

======================

David K - 6-8-2011 at 05:13 PM

Thank you!

So, washboarding is unavoidable unless we stay under 5 mph or drive motorhomes (or tanks)...

It does say the wheel rising up and down is the cause... so in a way, bad shocks (which allow excessive verticle wheel travel) make things worse, quicker than those with good shocks... but that all car travel (over 5 mph) will form washboard ripples.

[Edited on 6-9-2011 by David K]

Udo - 6-8-2011 at 07:28 PM

I'll go with Ron's anwer:

4-20-40, sometimes 60...the FJ Cruiser handles pretty good at 60!

TMW - 6-9-2011 at 08:06 AM

Here is some more info:

Physics of Washboard Road Formation
Stockbyte/Getty Images
The wheels of a vehicle push back dirt, and over time that dirt builds up into small ridges.
Some experts who maintain dirt roads say that your car's suspension system causes the problem as it actually tries to smooth out the bumps in the road [source: U.S. Forest Service]. As a wheel moves over a bump, the suspension system absorbs the shock and then pushes back against the road surface. On a soft surface like a dirt road, the push back either packs or displaces the dirt it hits. Over time, as more and more cars go over the bump, the washboard pattern develops.

However, in the summer of 2009, physicists from Canada, France and the United Kingdom published a new study about the physics of washboard road formation. They discovered that ripples will form, even when the springy suspension of a car and the rolling shape of a wheel are eliminated [source: American Physical Society].

They built an experimental vehicle, replacing the wheel with a suspension rolling over a road with a simple inclined plow blade, without any spring or suspension, dragging over a bed of dry sand. Ripples appear when the plow moves above a certain speed.

After observing the results, they compared this phenomenon to the physics of stone skipping: A stone needs to be thrown above a specific speed in order to have enough force to bounce of the surface. A washboarding plow is similar, except the sandy surface remembers its shape and the effect is amplified.

They concluded that the formation of a washboard pattern is inevitable. The ridges will form, even if the wheel diameter, suspension or surface is changed. The only way to avoid the effects of a washboard road is to stay below a certain speed, but that's impractical: you'd usually have to drive at 3 miles per hour (4.83 kilometers per hour) to eliminate the problem altogether.

Some day, such discoveries may lead to improved suspension systems or improved road surfaces that smooth out a bumpy ride. In the meantime, there's not much you can do about washboard road except brace yourself, watch your speed and hang on for the ride.

american researchers lagging in important fields of science!

mtgoat666 - 6-9-2011 at 09:01 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by TW
However, in the summer of 2009, physicists from Canada, France and the United Kingdom published a new study about the physics of washboard road formation. They discovered that ripples will form,...

TiddlyWinks:
and that's what is posted above :bounce:

WHAT WASHBOARDS?

durrelllrobert - 6-9-2011 at 11:10 AM

Not a Problem:

mondo - 6-12-2011 at 05:48 PM

Air down helps a lot. We have a 2500 Dodge Diesel 4x4. Nornal psi is 65 but we go down to 30psi for the run to Gonzaga Bay. The truck has a motorcyle and basic camping stuff. We run at 15 to 30 mph most of the time. Comfort and safty more important than speed for us.

redhilltown - 6-12-2011 at 11:45 PM

I also air down quite a bit and of course it not only helps for comfort but for punctures etc. The only problem is in Baja, unless you have your own way to air back up it can be a while on the highway which is not good for your tires nor your safety. There was a thread not too long ago about air compressors (for the most part the small -plug- into- your -battery ones are crap)....David K had one he really likes and my friend I adventure with has a spectacular one that hooks up to your battery and takes about 10 mins total for all four tires...I should know the name of it, shouldn't I!!!

And at least here in the states, I'm sure many of us have horror stories of trying to air back up at a gas station...feeding in tokens or quarters in the freezing cold for a machine that couldn't pump up a bicycle tire on a good day.

Cypress - 6-13-2011 at 05:54 AM

Washboard roads are the result of harmonic oscillation.

[Edited on 6/13/2011 by Cypress]

BajaGringo - 6-13-2011 at 06:07 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by redhilltown
I also air down quite a bit and of course it not only helps for comfort but for punctures etc. The only problem is in Baja, unless you have your own way to air back up it can be a while on the highway which is not good for your tires nor your safety. There was a thread not too long ago about air compressors (for the most part the small -plug- into- your -battery ones are crap)....David K had one he really likes and my friend I adventure with has a spectacular one that hooks up to your battery and takes about 10 mins total for all four tires...I should know the name of it, shouldn't I!!!

And at least here in the states, I'm sure many of us have horror stories of trying to air back up at a gas station...feeding in tokens or quarters in the freezing cold for a machine that couldn't pump up a bicycle tire on a good day.

This is the one I use and really like. I did find it at a better price...

Warn Air Compressor

durrelllrobert - 6-13-2011 at 09:43 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Cypress
Washboard roads are the result of harmonic oscillation.

[Edited on 6/13/2011 by Cypress]

:lol

f course:
www.youtube.com/watch?v=l2xOw-VXe_g

David K - 6-13-2011 at 11:53 AM

Quote:

For sure you should not air down unless you have a pump!!!

The cig. lighter connect ones are very slow, about 2 psi per min.

The battery clip ones are about 3 times faster (6 psi per minute). I got one at Harbor Freight in 2006 for $49 (on advice from bajalou).

Recently, I was given one that is almost the same, but stores in a smaller bag instead of a hard plastic case. It pumped 5 psi per minute. It is a Master Flow Tsunami (model MF-1050).

[Edited on 6-13-2011 by David K]

redhilltown - 6-22-2011 at 10:51 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by David K

Quote:

Well after seeing this and looking them up the best I can on the google, I finally bought this very model today at Pep Boys. The reviews were very positive except the need to tweak it a bit. I will be deep into the Inyo mountains and Saline Valley this weekend and I will give a report (not what this thread is really about I realize, but why not?).

mtgoat666 - 6-23-2011 at 01:46 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Cypress
Washboard roads are the result of harmonic oscillation.

are you sure?

Quote:

Originally posted by Cypress
harmonic oscillation.

do you even know what those two words mean?

:lol:

[Edited on 6-23-2011 by mtgoat666]

Cypress - 6-23-2011 at 04:08 AM

Yep! :yes:

[Edited on 6/23/2011 by Cypress]

redhilltown - 6-27-2011 at 11:58 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by David K

Quote:

Well it worked like a charm! Thanks DK. Got it at Pep Boys and while the price said 79.99 when she rang it up it was 55.00...plus I found a five dollar bill in the parking lot so let's just call it 50.00!!! Canvas case is a piece of crap (is there not ONE person out of a billion that can make a proper zipper in China?) and I will replace it but other than that, no complaints. I didn't really need to air down but I wanted to check it out so I went down to 25 psi and it brought each tire back up in about two minutes max. One of the main complaints on the units is the pressure gauge is off but this one was pretty accurate. Let's just say it was a PERFECT beer break! And on a Baja note I cooked up a whole L.A. Bay Goldspotted Bass from last fall on the campfire...even after that long of time it was delicious...freezer wrap and double bagged did the trick.

The only true problem is I am now out of Goldspotted Bass...