Hello Nomads,
I'm Ray, a motion graphics designer in SF...and I'm Julia, a part time waitress at a brewpub and part time oil painter.
We've been reading the site daily since we started planning our 10-day Baja camping/roadtrip 5 months ago. We leave in 9 days, (Oct 17 - 27th) so we
finally mustered the courage to post!
So...umm..hello!
OK. We bought the Baja guides and read ALL of the posted trip reports. But We still have a few Qs and if you would be so kind as to schooling us a
bit, we would certainly appreciate it.
Our #1 Q:
After an early AM crossing in TJ and spending the first night in El Rosario (It seems EVERYONE agress on the Baja Cactus) Should we wake early and
drive onward to BofLA (4 or 5 Hrs?) Or continue on HW1 to Mulege (7hrs?)
All we want is peace and quiet, taco stands, pacificos and stunning views....and to not get too lost (we splurged on a GPS!)
Please let us know what you think! And hopefully if our paths cross with any of you, we'd love to buy you lunch and pick your brain further!
Thanks!
Julia & Raymtgoat666 - 10-8-2011 at 02:26 AM
Quote:
Originally posted by raymorrone
After an early AM crossing in TJ and spending the first night in El Rosario (It seems EVERYONE agress on the Baja Cactus)
Wrong. Never say EVERYONE agrees. Skip Baja Cactus and stay at Catavina. MUCH nicer place to stay in Catavina.
Quote:
Originally posted by raymorrone
Should we wake early and drive onward to BofLA (4 or 5 Hrs?) Or continue on HW1 to Mulege (7hrs?)
All we want is peace and quiet, taco stands, pacificos and stunning views....and to not get too lost (we splurged on a GPS!)
hard to answer that Q. If you want to go to BOLA, then go to BOLA. BOLA and Mulege are very different. How do we know which place you will like?
Both places are very nice. Perhaps you should go both places...DENNIS - 10-8-2011 at 06:05 AM
Welcome to BajaNomad, Ray.
You'll get a ton of advice in a little while. Nomads, for the most part, are day people....except for the Goats who like to roam around at night
eating out of the neighbors trash cans.shari - 10-8-2011 at 06:48 AM
welcome to the sandbox Ray & julia...while baja cactus is great, Catavinia area is stunning and unique. BOLA is just a short hop off the highway
so check it out too...and if it is a bit too steamy there and in Mulege, you can head over to the cooler pacside and visit all of us over here
too...lots of options...be flexible..have a wonderful, fun trip.
check your U2U box up by the sign in.BajaDove - 10-8-2011 at 06:56 AM
The most fun thing is 'Baja decisions' Stop where you feel comfortable and when it's time wake up say 'been there done that' and move on down.
spend a night in or near Santispac *Bay of Conception* beauty fix.
Most of all take it in and love where you are.SFandH - 10-8-2011 at 07:00 AM
We always push on to Catavina if daylight permits, and we make sure it does. Very pretty place and it puts you that much closer to your destination.
We went to BoLA once. Have not returned. Check it out if you have the time though, many people like it. Baja is for exploring.CasaManzana - 10-8-2011 at 07:02 AM
The Cactus is indeed a great place...no pool like Catavina has but very delux rooms and WiFi (none in Catavina) AND at half the price. BoLA is worth
the jaunt for a day if you have not been there before, if for no other reason then to say you have been there. If you stay in Guerrero Negro I
recommend the Cowboy Motel ($400 pesos), first one on the left (also WiFi'ed). And as you can see, there isn't anybody that agrees with anybody on
this boardBajaDove - 10-8-2011 at 07:09 AM
Forgot the best view of Land's End is from the Costco Parking lot.PCbaja - 10-8-2011 at 07:23 AM
Hola,
If you make your way to Mulege (which I recommend) stop by Punta Chivato on the way. It has some of the most beautiful beaches in Baja and the weather
is perfect this time of the year. The Pacside is to cold and windy and will be for awhile. If you want a good nite sleep,I would continue on to
Catavina or GN. Baja Cactus is nice but to noisy at night because of the location.
Buena suertewoody with a view - 10-8-2011 at 07:35 AM
bola is easily reached in 8ish hours. go there first night and look around. mulege the next day and then make you plans accordingly. don't forget to
stop in san ignacio. get an ice cream and sit in the park under the largest tree in baja and marvel at the church/mission.
edit: stay at baja cactus on the way home. it's about 5 hours from the border and makes a perfect layover.
[Edited on 10-8-2011 by woody with a view]BooJumMan - 10-8-2011 at 07:35 AM
Catavina is an awesome place for sure to stay. Only problem is that to get to Catavina in one day is sometimes hard to do before nightfall (during the
winter months).
You'll most likely going to have to jam straight down there to get there, and not enjoy the drive, and sights to see on the way. Also, the stretch of
road between El Rosario and Catavina is sketchy at night. Lots of blind turns, winding through the high desert. So unless you get to El Rosario with 3
hours of daylight left, Id stay in El Rosario, and explore Catavina the next morning/day.
Also, you need to fill up at El Rosario no matter what because the next gas station isn't until Villa Jesus Maria...
When I am going south I usually always stay in El Rosario because I know what to expect, its cheap and I love Mama Espinosa's... But, I LOVE Catavina.
I always stop there and take a walk no matter what.larryC - 10-8-2011 at 07:42 AM
Welcome to BN. I would say that both destinations, Bola and Mulege, should be seen. Right now in bola the whale sharks are in and can be see in the
south bay after a short panga ride. If you are into fishing then try a little Dorado fishing, they are catching some nice ones inside the bay. Then
there is Mulege and the Concecion bay area, in a word "spectacular". You'll have a great time at both places.
Larrybonanza bucko - 10-8-2011 at 07:47 AM
Ray and Julia:
Congratulations on discovering the last place anywhere near California that is almost the way God created it.....outside of the cities that is.
You will find the people away from the border to be honest, religious, anxious to help and inventive in ways that never occur to a Gringo...ask about
seating a tubeless tire on rim with a little gas and a match at some stop you make.
I agree totally with the advice above to stop at Catavinia/Rancho Santa Ynez. It is unique with big rocks and flora that you won't most other places
on earth including Boojum trees!
We live part time just 8 miles over the hill....but a long fifty mile drive via Mex 1 and "Mex 5"....on one of Baja's most beautiful beaches. Our
place has only been easily accessible by air until recently. But if you want to see Baja the way it won't be for much longer come visit Alfonsina's
and Papa Fernandez's village. The trip North from there is on very good road now except for about 18 miles of dirt which has been graded. You can
make it from Alfonsina's beach y cantina to the border at Mexicali in about 6 hours via San Felipe....a little shorter than the trip to TJ and a
shorter border wait there too.
You will not be able to get your fill of Baja in 9 days. Come back and visit us...use your talent for graphics and be inspired by one of the last,
best, most beautiful places on earth.
Some old Bush Pilots such as I have been hoarding this place for 40 years....guess it's gonna be time to share.
BBDavid K - 10-8-2011 at 08:08 AM
Depends on when you can cross the border. Without long stops, Baja Cactus El Rosario is 5 hours south driving time. If you leave San Diego with a full
tank, you can make the 225 mile drive without stopping for gas and fill up at Antonio's station next to the motel. It is perhaps the finest highway
motel you will ever stay in and it is less than $40 a night (show them your Baja Nomad card or ask for Antonio for royal treatment). Mama Espinoza's
restaurant is next door, we often have breakfast there... but for dinner we prefer either Hugo's Tacos Mision (and art studio... tell Hugo hello from
me... point to my 'got baja?' sticker on the glass case inside) or Ed's place 'Baja's Best Restaurant/ Bar/ Bed & Breakfast' on the FAR end of
town across from the Turista Motel (which is nice if Baja Cactus is full). Ed's lobster dinner is yummy (ask for it made 'Ed's Way) and his Tequila
Sunrises are made with fresh squeezed orange juice!
Cataviña is 1.5 hours (76 miles) from Baja Cactus... and you can enjoy it more if you are not rushed. The short climb up to the painted cave (2 miles
before Cataviña) is a must if you are able to do that. See my link to the Cataviña area photos to see the petros and hill they are on top of at http://vivabaja.com/tours
If the hotel is full at Cataviña (it doesn't have many rooms), there is a rustic motel on the other side of the highway and a bit north called Linda.
Or, go a mile past Cataviña and take the paved road left to Rancho Santa Ynez (food and bunkroom with shower). The president of Mexico slept here and
so did Steve McQueen when his Baja racer broke down, so it is historic. Santa Ynez was a major checkpoint in the original Baja races and has been used
a few times when the race occaisionally comes this way.
Bahia de los Angeles is a must visit, even if just for a day... you will see why when you first see the bay from the road going in. There are several
taco stands, restaurants, motels, campgrounds in the little town. It has a great museum displaying the area history and natural wonders. A drive north
to La Gringa is popular (paved part way, from the traffic circle with the sail boat statue in the middle). 2 gas stations (always top off before
heading anywhere from here), as well.
In Baja Sur (on Mountain time, so you loose an hour at the state border where the giant eagle monument is), a must is to take the paved side road a
mile + into San Ignacio, do NOT miss this, side road by the gas station... an oasis in the desert with a huge river that comes out of the ground, and
goes back into the ground on each side of the oasis. The mission (church built over 200 years ago/ founded in 1728) faces the town plaza. Casa Leree
is one of the many places to stay if you like the feel of San Ignacio!
The next oasis on Highway One is Mulege, and just past is Bahia Concepcion... and you have read about that I am sure!
Have a great time and welcome to Nomad. Naturally for all this help, we expect a trip report and photos!!!David K - 10-8-2011 at 08:12 AM
David K, those BN cards are sweet!elgatoloco - 10-8-2011 at 09:22 AM
Don't drive at night.Ateo - 10-8-2011 at 09:33 AM
I think if you have 10 days you should really see the Pacific side too! I really only focus on Baja surf destinations so I'm not sure what to
recommend for you, but to be able to see a little bit of both sides of Baja should help you figure out where you want to go on your future Baja trips.
Will you be in a truck or passenger car? Dirt roads ok? There are numerous pacific camp spots north of El Rosario if you find yourself in this area
and want to explore. Grab the Baja Almanac and look for dirt roads heading westward. You'll usually end up at a cool desolate beach. Or take the
paved road to Erendira and head north or south for semi desolate camping.David K - 10-8-2011 at 09:37 AM
Quote:
Originally posted by ateo
David K, those BN cards are sweet!
Yah, and we need to remind Doug to change the year to 2012 on them if he hasn't yet!
[Edited on 10-8-2011 by David K]Mulegena - 10-8-2011 at 09:45 AM
Quote:
Originally posted by BajaDove
The most fun thing is 'Baja decisions' Stop where you feel comfortable and when it's time wake up say 'been there done that' and move on down.
spend a night in or near Santispac *Bay of Conception* beauty fix.
Most of all take it in and love where you are.
BajaDove gives excellent advice, and I concur.
Baja brings out the romantic adventure spirit in all of us.
End of October is a great time to visit. Baja's "autumn" if you will.
The constant cold winds that come out of the north haven't begun,
and the waters on both sides of the peninsula still have plenty of warmth, so plan to get wet.
The Pacific side of the peninsula will still be warm and nice.
The eastern peninsula will be cooler with less humidity but still hot days.
Listen to your Hearts.
Walk the Beauty Way.
[Edited on 10-8-2011 by Mulegena]
[Edited on 10-8-2011 by Mulegena]Ateo - 10-8-2011 at 10:02 AM
Heck, even a 1-2 hour detour into Santa Rosalillita would mix it up a bit. Paved road, easy access, explore around.mcfez - 10-8-2011 at 10:13 AM
Quote:
Originally posted by DENNIS
Welcome to BajaNomad, Ray.
You'll get a ton of advice in a little while. Nomads, for the most part, are day people....except for the Goats who like to roam around at night
eating out of the neighbors trash cans.
Hey DENNIS....why is he eating at the neighbors trash cans.....you have not replaced your stolen one yet?
raymorrone...
Welcome to the BN. You'll find MY advice superior to the rest of these folks :-)
One can spend months in BoLA. You have only ten days....I am assuming those ten days include travel time too. I suggest that you make your destination
BoLA only.....saving Mulege for another vacation. There is TONS of stops, and TONS of stuff to do on the way to BoLA and at BoLA. Take you time and
enjoy the scenery!
MY TAKE ON THIS
desertcpl - 10-8-2011 at 10:51 AM
If this is your first trip to Baja, dont be in a rush, take your time, if your pushing for El Rosario for the first day or beyond your going to miss
alot.
you might want to take some time and see the Gold Coast that runs from TJ to Ensenada, it really is beautiful, stop in at the Famous Rosarito Beach
Hotel, then a little to the south of the Hotel is also a famous place for Lobster dinners Puerto Nuevo ( its on the free road and very well marked)
then you might want to stop in Ensenada and go the their very famous Fish Market on the water front in downtown Ensenada. then you might also might
consider stopping in San Quintin, almost every place in Baja has its own unique flavor, El Rosario is a must stop for gas, I know in some maps it
shows gas at Cativina ( not ) some times in drums, but dont count on it, but do stop in Cativina its like no other place you will ever see. LA Bay is
a must stop, the Bay is one of a kind you will never forget it, then on to Mulege the town has so much history and its just beautiful little town,
camping just south on Bahia Concepcion is not to be missed
one last thing,, dont drive at night period, so plan your travels accordingly. make sure your vehicle is in good shape and good tires. bring some
tools, water, cell phone reception is spotty
[Edited on 10-8-2011 by desertcpl]
[Edited on 10-8-2011 by desertcpl]Bob H - 10-8-2011 at 12:05 PM
Lots of great advice here... will be looking forward to your trip report after you return from your very first trip to Baja!!
Mulege is one of our favorite places to visit. And Bahia Concepcion beaches nearby are to die for!!
wow! Thank you!
raymorrone - 10-8-2011 at 12:40 PM
Thank you to all! This is some spectacular advice! Who needs a guide book? - I'm printing out every response!
Indeed, we will be in no rush at all and in full exploration mode (except behind the wheel at night) with our Nomad Card in hand. I know 10 days is
simply not going to be enough.
And Ray promises a detailed trip report with photos and video links! its his first time out of the country...and given his job, his first time away
from a computer screen in months. He is so pale, he's almost translucent.
Thanks again everyone! And we mean it on taking folks to lunch!
Julia (and Ray)
JuliaBajaNomad - 10-8-2011 at 12:44 PM
Quote:
Originally posted by David K
Quote:
Originally posted by ateo
David K, those BN cards are sweet!
Yah, and we need to remind Doug to change the year to 2012 on them if he hasn't yet!
It's now set to automatically update the expiration date to Dec 1st of the next year now every October 1st.
BajaBlanca - 10-8-2011 at 12:55 PM
welcome to baja nomad land !!!
take a shovel - just in case you need to dig out
remember to deflate your tires if you are near sand - soft sand - and have a good pump to air up again. this has saved many a soul
take water with you in the car.
no joke about filling up in el rosario on the way down and in guerrero negro on the way north
I think you will like BoLA and your tolerance of heat will indicate if you want to spend more time there than a day or so
there is a wonderful remote minute exquisite little village which is located south of tortugas and one hour north of bahia asuncion. I say stop in
asuncion for visit and then head north 1 hour to this village. It is called PUERTO NUEVO and for 200 pesos a day, you get your own cabana and access
to a full kitchen and a wonderful pool overlooking the pacific and total privacy at night since you will be the only ones there most likely AND the
owner will trade you meat or whatever veggie etc you have for LOBSTERS.... i will be posting a trip report today. Take your food - it is so small
there that there are NO stores at all ....
and then you can come visit la bocana and from here head over to san ignacio for the night ... we can give you all sorts of information !! that way
you see both sides of the peninsula ...
NOTE: IF THIS IS YOUR FIRST TIME COMING SOUTH, DO NOT BE FRIGHTENED BY THE MILITARY GUYS - YOUNGSTERS- STANDING WITH MACHINE GUNS. THEY ARE CHECKING
FOR DRUGS, they will ask you to step out of the vehicle. There are numerous checkpoints coming down the peninsula. Take yourpurse with you and KEEP
all docs and cash on your body. also, keep an eye on them from each side. some folks have had cameras or other items P-nched ... better safe than
sorry.
have fun and we would love to meet you so ... visit the pacific side too !!!
10 days will be enough get you hooked
danaeb - 10-8-2011 at 03:12 PM
Quote:
Originally posted by raymorrone
I know 10 days is simply not going to be enough.
Julia (and Ray)
It looks like the weather will be superb while you're here.
I've known people (Oh. Yeah. That would be me....) who bought property after 3 days here. desertcpl - 10-8-2011 at 03:39 PM
NOTE: IF THIS IS YOUR FIRST TIME COMING SOUTH, DO NOT BE FRIGHTENED BY THE MILITARY GUYS - YOUNGSTERS- STANDING WITH MACHINE GUNS. THEY ARE CHECKING
FOR DRUGS,
Oh Yea, I forgot about that, dont bring drugs into MX,, you can always stop here at the house and leave them with me for safe keeping BajaBlanca - 10-8-2011 at 03:53 PM
BajaBlanca - 10-8-2011 at 03:59 PM
Julia and ray - you do know to take a passport AND to get your tourist visas or FMMs right at the border in TJ, right ? No atter what the sign or
anyone says, the office and the bank window further south of it are open 365 and 24/7. Knock on the bank window and the guy or gal will wake up and
take care of you....
The fine is $100 each if you don't. and you are caught without FMMs.
Also, if you want to go fishing, get a Mexican fishing license online ... let me know if you need the link.
I'll tell you what, if you give me a heads up the day before you come, i will make you both lunch !! If you have a camper trailer motorhome, we
charge $5/day for parking in front with a truly breathtaking view of the oceano !! that means you get to count the dolphins jumping the waves.desertcpl - 10-8-2011 at 04:13 PM
make sure you have car insurance before you inter, and get your visa as soon as you cross the border.
the weather in BOLA and Mulege will be great and not sweltering, it will be perfest beach weather for camping, the Pacific side can be cold.
I wouldnt think you need to get off the beaten path for you first time in Baja either, you will have alot to do and see with only 10 days, Oh do stop
for a few hours in Santa Rosalia its a interesting place, see the Church that was designed by Eiffel ( from Paris )
the archtectual buildings in this town is unlike any in Baja.
dont wear any expensive jewelry, you dont need to attract attention to you.
when you fill up with gas always watch the attendant, make sure he zeros the pump and watch as he is pumping gas dont walk away
exchange your dollars for Pesos, its always better to pay this way. keeps people more honest with the exchange rate,
avoid camping in remote places, I know you mentioned you want peace and quiet. but I would think you can have both, just dont get complacent and throw
caution to the wind
sunscreen
volcano - 10-14-2011 at 06:43 AM
sounds like translucent Ray better pack a bunch of sunscreen and cortisone cream....I'm lost without them in my first few weeks south.
Well...with all the trip advice here....
mcfez - 10-14-2011 at 07:35 AM
Let me add this to the do's and do not's:
If you are to sleep on the beach...make sure you zip up your sleeping bag tightly. Sleep off the sand....at least 24 inches. These sticky hungry
little buggers, Newbietrillias, could visit you during the night.
[Edited on 10-14-2011 by mcfez]
greengoes - 10-14-2011 at 08:12 AM
If you are going as far down as Baja Sur do spend at least 1/2 a day in San Ignacio. It is a wonderful Mexican town and the Misión San Ignacio
Kadakaamán is something you will always remember.
Bajatripper - 10-14-2011 at 09:52 AM
Welcome to the board, Ray and Julia
Just one piece of advice, should you decide to stay at El Rosario. I wouldn't bother getting too early a start, that early morning sun can be murder
on a couple of curves up in the mountains just south of there. Better to take a relaxed breakfast and give it some time to get a bit above the
horizon.
Otherwise, enjoy the peninsula, it has lots to offer, I'm sure you'll find what you are looking for.BajaDanD - 10-14-2011 at 06:54 PM
Quote:
Originally posted by PCbaja
Hola,
If you make your way to Mulege (which I recommend) stop by Punta Chivato on the way. It has some of the most beautiful beaches in Baja and the weather
is perfect this time of the year. The Pacside is to cold and windy and will be for awhile. If you want a good nite sleep,I would continue on to
Catavina or GN. Baja Cactus is nice but to noisy at night because of the location.
Buena suerte
Pac side should not be cold and windy just yet. Oct /Nov usually is the best time. IMObajalinda - 10-15-2011 at 11:51 AM
BajaDanD - you are so right. Here on the Pacific side we are having gorgeous weather. Very warm to hot days and beautiful cooler evenings. Ocean
water temps great for swimming. For many, Oct/Nov is one of the best times of the year here.bufeo - 10-15-2011 at 01:16 PM
Julia and Ray,
Welcome to Nomads, but, even more, welcome to Baja California.
You have (and will probably receive more) a ton of suggestions to sort through before you leave and myriad decisions to make en route.
There is a huge lexicon of intriguing adjectives one can apply to that peninsula, but the one that has suited us best over the forty-plus years we've
travelled there is 'magnetic'. It just keeps drawing us back—the mountains, the people, the flora, the canyons, the history, the geology—the list goes
on.
It took us seven attempts to make it to the southern tip. Understandble in the '60s before the Transpeninsula Hwy was completed, but even after the
pavement extended all the way we tried three times before one year we just set out, drove straight-the-way to Cabo San Lucas, and then worked our way
back north.
Our impediments during those first attempts to make it to the tip were not machinery malfunctions, not weather, not funds, not anything of that sort.
There is so much to see. So many side-trips. The myriad distractions along the way. With one exception during those first seven trips we worked with
fourteen days each time. We never knew how fast the calendar could speed by.
Whatever decisions you make, wherever you eat, camp, lodge, drive, or stop—¡Buen viaje!