Santiago - 10-15-2011 at 03:27 PM
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This photo is the best one I have of our 3 burner Wedgewood stove/oven from an old RV. Last trip down the oven pilot would light, but the burner
would not. If we held a butane lighter on the thermocouple, it would open and let the gas flow to the main burner which would light but then in a
minute or so, it would go out. The pilot would stay lit, but just barely. Also, isn't the pilot a two stage on these; low and high flame? If so, it
seems as if it's stuck on low.
I'm assuming I need to replace the pilot/thermocouple assembly? Someone at an used RV place said it might be the oven control assembly but that
doesn't seem likely to me.
Hook - 10-15-2011 at 05:44 PM
Before you you ANYTHING else, check all orifices and gas passageways, that you are able to, for insect infestations or webbing. Very common.
woody with a view - 10-15-2011 at 06:35 PM
^^^^^what he said^^^^^
my propane fridge has needed cleaning 2x in the past three years. it is 25 years old and works like day 1.
Hook - 10-16-2011 at 07:53 AM
BTW. you can test if it's the thermocouple by simply running a 12v source directly to the gas valve that the thermocouple opens and closes. Most of
these valves you can actually hear open and close, if you listen carefully. Bring down a set of jumpers with alligator clips on both sides to perform
the bypass test.
Still, T-couple assemblies are not expensive. If you are headed down, just bring one with you, just in case.
fish101 - 10-16-2011 at 09:07 AM
WAHOO RV in San Jose has all the parts that you may need..Chuck down there is great with helping those that may need it..1wahoorv@prodigy.net.mx ask
for Chuck Schmuck... he will put them on the bus same day as ordered and save you some time...
Bob and Susan - 10-16-2011 at 10:07 AM
the thermal coupler is probably good if the pilot light stays lit
it dose sound like a spider
they make webs inside gas lines
just get a can of compressed air and blow out the line
gas dryers do it all the time
bajalou - 10-16-2011 at 10:21 AM
A lot of RV stoves have 2 separate pilot lites - close together but separate. One will stay lit all the time, it lights the other one when you turn
on the oven. When the second one heats the thermocoupler, it allows the gas to heat the oven main burner.
The small one can be on all the time - even with a bad thermocoupler.
Bob and Susan - 10-16-2011 at 10:34 AM
there it is...
Update on "oven won't light" thread
Santiago - 3-25-2012 at 09:57 AM
http://forums.bajanomad.com/viewthread.php?tid=55691#pid6608...
The above link is to a thread I started last October on why my small RV stove/oven combo would not light, even though the pilot would.
On my last trip down I was determined to fix this with a blast of compressed air, assuming that it was spiders. No go. Next day, LarryC drives over
to talk about the transducer repair and I ask him to take a look at it.
I go thru the drill:
1. turn oven control to pilot only and light the pilot.
2. turn oven control to 350 degrees and the pilot gets about twice as big.
3. gas does not flow to the main burner and of course, won't light.
But then LC asked a very good question: "Don't you have to hold down the button while lighting the pilot until the thermo heats up?"
The answer to that is no, and he just shrugs his shoulders. Now I'm confused because that is the way ever other propane appliance is lit; but not the
oven.
Anyway, last week I go to the RV used parts place in Sacramento where I bought the unit and go thru the above drill and the guy says I have a bad
safety switch. He pulls one out, fits in the palm of his hand and explains that it is in the space between the rear oven wall and back plate of the
entire unit. The gas line that goes from the oven control to the main oven burner goes thru this switch which has mercury in it - just like the
old-time heater thermostats in our homes.
Unfortunately, these are not made anymore as somebody alerted the gombint that having mercury next to where we cook our food just might not be a good
idea and all the old stoves are slowly being cannibalized for this part.
We go thru stacks and stacks of old stoves until we come across one that is my match and still has the safety switch in it. Cool. $200 he says. No way
- I bought the whole thing for $75 4 years ago and now you want $200 for just this itty-bitty switch? back and forth like this for 10 minutes and
then he gets quiet and says that since new ones don't have these switches anymore, why not just connect the gas line that goes from the oven control,
through this switch directly to the main burner - just bypass the switch?
Everyone in the store who is listening to this gets real quiet, me, him, his boss, the guy in line behind me as we all contemplate this work-around.
We all agree this should work: still light the pilot, the oven thermostat will tell the oven control valve to send gas to the main burner and the
pilot will light the burner.
We congratulate ourselves on this very mexican fix, if I can use this term, until the guy behind me says, "Yeah, but what would happen if a sudden
gust of wind should blow out the pilot light; wouldn't the next time the oven thermostat tell the oven control to send more gas be a problem???"
Always a party-pooper in every crowd....
msteve1014 - 3-25-2012 at 10:37 AM
So don't use the pilot. Turn off the gas everytime you are done with the stove, or bypass the pilot, my stove has a valve to shut it off, and light
the oven by hand each time. You are looking for a "Mexican" fix, right?
Bob H - 3-25-2012 at 11:04 AM
Or, just buy another unit from someone on Craigslist.
Here's a 4-burner one in Scripps Ranch in San Diego for $75
http://sandiego.craigslist.org/nsd/app/2921352358.html