BajaNomad

Headed down to see the whales got some ?s

Sprocket - 1-17-2012 at 12:58 PM

I plan to stay at Jardines (san quintin) on the first night. Then load up the wife and kids and head to GN. I would like to stop at the rock art at Catavina, Marmol, and Mision San Borja. Heres my problem

1) last time I stopped at the rock art sign I couldnt find anything (I was coming back from the baja 1000 in a rush so gave up)

2) on our last try for San Borja I got lost, tried to access via BOLA highway.

Does any one have gps cords?Catavina, Marmol, and Mision San Borja
Can I get to San Borja off the 1 easily?
Anything else we can stop and see easily from the freeway on our way? recommendations

I will be going back thru Cocos to San Felipe.
Will Be driving our 15 pass e350 lifted dont mind off roading just cant deal with getting stuck with the family.

children are 5 and 8 (pretty industrial units)

thanks

[Edited on 2-23-2012 by Sprocket]

BajaRat - 1-17-2012 at 01:55 PM

Marmol info.
Just got back, road has just been graded and is in excellent condition. School house approx. 15 km in complete with km markers, mine approx 15 km further and well marked.

Caution!!!!!!!!!!!! mining has begun again, large dump trucks using road. Dump driver told us they have a market in China for the material.

Have fun! Rat

larryC - 1-17-2012 at 03:18 PM

From Hiway 1 you can get to San Borja through Rosarito, not sure of the KM mark but probably 40 or 50 klicks south of Punta Prieta. The road to Borja through Roasrito is pretty well marked, and the road is better than the road off the LA bay road.
Hth
Larry

David K - 1-17-2012 at 03:32 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by Sprocket
I plan to stay at Jardines (san quintin) on the first night. Then load up the wife and kids and head to GN. I would like to stop at the rock art at Catavina, Marmol, and Mision San Borja. Heres my problem

1) last time I stopped at the rock art sign I couldnt find anything (I was coming back from the baja 1000 in a rush so gave up)

2) on our last try for San Borja I got lost, tried to access via BOLA highway.

Does any one have gps cords?Catavina, Marmol, and Mision San Borja
Can I get to San Borja off the 1 easily?
Anything else we can stop and see easily from the freeway on our way? recommendations

I will be going back thru Cocos to San Felipe.
Will Be driving our 15 pass e350 lifted dont mind off roading just cant deal with getting stuck with the family.

children are 5 and 8 (pretty industrial units)

thanks


I have ALL that information for you... anytime, just go to http://vivabaja.com there is a GPS waypoint section as well as photos from my trips to those sites. A fast way to find the trip pages (which usually have GPS and road directions) is to use this index to find the photos of a site: http://vivabaja.com/tours (you will note that link is in each of my Nomad posts, below).

At this time (2:25 pm PST) my server is down while Edison replaces a transformer... so the links will be back up later... I will post them to further assist your quest.

The Cataviña rock art sign you will note is at the top of the boulder hill, across the arroyo from Hwy. 1 (Km. 176)... just north of the north arroyo crossing. That is where the cave art is located... at the top, under the big boulder... Drive down off Hwy. 1, park in the arroyo, and climb up to the top... have a look inside.

Here is the base of the hill the rock art is on top of:






Some more photos inside the cave: http://vivabaja.com/703/page5.html



The Road to San Borja (22 miles) from the L.A. Bay Hwy. is signed at the turnoff (near the dry lake bed)... and it is basically just one graded road all the way there. You can't miss the mission... it is very impressive... the furthest north stone mission in California (Baja)... Construction was done by the Dominicans and work stopped in 1801. Only the bell tower was left out. Another road in (or a loop route out) is from Hwy. 1 at Rosarito... also about 22 miles away. It is a bit slower and rougher than the L.A. Bay Hwy. route in... on our last visit 2 years ago.


See both routes to San Borja and the mission on our last trip there in 2009: http://vivabaja.com/709/page16.html

Here is the good road between the mission and the L.A. Bay highway:




Many many sites along Hwy. 1 and it all depends on your time, vehicle, and interests... mines, petroglyphs, fossils, missions! Baja is an awesome place!!:bounce:

La Lobera, Las Pintas, Sauzalito, San Fernando, El Marmol, Montevideo, all accessible with 2WD...



[Edited on 1-18-2012 by David K]

David K - 1-17-2012 at 03:52 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by larryC
From Hiway 1 you can get to San Borja through Rosarito, not sure of the KM mark but probably 40 or 50 klicks south of Punta Prieta. The road to Borja through Roasrito is pretty well marked, and the road is better than the road off the LA bay road.
Hth
Larry


KM. 52... from TW on the KM. Marker thread (I just bumped up)

KM14 Punta Prieta
KM39 Hwy to Santa Rosalillita
KM52 Rosarito and access to Mission San Borja
KM62/63 Access to Pacific Ocean by Altamira (AB)
KM67/68 Access to El Tomatal and Miller's Landing
KM70 Access east to El Marmolito Onyx mine
KM96 Jesus Maria

David K - 1-17-2012 at 04:36 PM

EL MARMOL (from my Mar. 2011 post):

The 56 mile drive down Highway One to the El Marmol road (from El Rosario) was a breeze and the signed road was between the 148 and 149 kilometer markers. The next 9 miles to El Marmol are dirt, but some of the easiest dirt miles in Baja and would be a breeze for most vehicles.













Of course... even more interesting than El Marmol, is the rare cold water geyser and soda springs of El Volcan, just 4 miles and a short 1/4 mile hike away!

SEE EL VOLCAN here: http://forums.bajanomad.com/viewthread.php?tid=52804

[Edited on 1-17-2012 by David K]

David K - 1-17-2012 at 04:49 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by BajaRat
Marmol info.
Just got back, road has just been graded and is in excellent condition. School house approx. 15 km in complete with km markers, mine approx 15 km further and well marked.

Caution!!!!!!!!!!!! mining has begun again, large dump trucks using road. Dump driver told us they have a market in China for the material.

Have fun! Rat


The mine is La Olvidada, now reached by a good graded road from El Marmol... There they are mining barite used for oil exploration/ drilling... See it here:

http://forums.bajanomad.com/viewthread.php?tid=52779

Sprocket - 1-18-2012 at 01:50 PM

David thanks

1) rock art in cave under big rock. NE of parking lot with whats left of a palapa. is it over the ridge we saw or just right in that area?

2) El Marmol looks like it should be easy with your instructions (is it easy to get to the guadalupe rock shrine from El Marmol rd?

3) San Borja. I checked earth google, Iam now sure we took the first sand wash
after the juction to bola not the rd. a few mile further east. Will 2x4 work to get there on this road. or should we go in off 1.

I was told the the road from Rosarito was better of highway 1. Is this true and if so where would I find the entrance off the 1? How long should I plan from the time we leave the highway to San Borja?

thanks

[Edited on 1-18-2012 by Sprocket]

[Edited on 1-18-2012 by Sprocket]

David K - 1-18-2012 at 02:13 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by Sprocket
David thanks

1) rock art in cave under big rock. NE of parking lot with whats left of a palapa. is it over the ridge we saw or just right in that area?



Always happy to help others find a Baja adventure!


1) rock art in cave under big rock. NE of parking lot with whats left of a palapa. is it over the ridge we saw or just right in that area?:

At about Km. 176, just north of the arroyo crossing, pull off the highway... a palapa used to be there, correct. Park there or go on down to the arroyo and park... be careful of sand if you do. Look across the arroyo from the park area and see the boulder hill (in my photo with Josh above). The sign is on top of that hill, as is the painted cave. The hill is at the junction of the two arroyos (may have water in them). A trail also climbs up from the south side as well as the west side (pictured).

Here's more photos from 2001... that's Amo Pescar with camera in cave:


Mike (Amo Pescar) photographs the Catavina rock art found in this cave, on top of a hill just a short distance from Mex.#1. N 29°45.118' W114°44.570'


This is just a small sample of the colorful ancient pictographs


Here's Chrstopher at the ' swimming pool', just north of the painted cave hill. N 29°45.106' W114°44.451'


==============================================





[Edited on 1-18-2012 by David K]

David K - 1-18-2012 at 02:24 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by Sprocket
David thanks

2) El Marmol looks like it should be easy with your instructions (is it easy to get to the guadalupe rock shrine from El Marmol rd?

thanks



I have no idea what 'guadalupe rock shrine' you are speaking about near El Marmol road???

The El Marmol road goes from near Rancho Sonora (where onyx crafts are sold) past the former San Simon windmill to El Marmol... then continues to Arroyo El Volcan and ends at mina La Olvidada (with a view down to the islands south of Puertecitos).

David K - 1-18-2012 at 02:32 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by Sprocket
David thanks


3) San Borja. I checked earth google, Iam now sure we took the first sand wash
after the juction to bola not the rd. a few mile further east. Will 2x4 work to get there on this road. or should we go in off 1.

I was told the the road from Rosarito was better of highway 1. Is this true and if so where would I find the entrance off the 1? How long should I plan from the time we leave the highway to San Borja?

thanks



In 2009, the road from the L.A. Bay Highway to San Borja was much better than the road from Rosarito... In 2003, it was the other way around... Things do change... But, they are both 2WD roads... and not a lot of rocky parts on the L.A. Bay route.

If you go from Rosarito, you leave Hwy. 1 at the big curve where the highway swings from southbound to west bound. Continue south into town on the dirt road, and soon you will take a road to the left (east)... You will find it or just ask... don't remember seeing any sign... but it is a small town and only one road leaves to the east and the other to the south over the hill.

The road form the L.A. Bay highway is signed... and is a wide graded road that meets the pavement at an angle heading towards L.A. Bay. 2 miles down the road is the side road to Montevideo painted cliff (7 miles)... Well worth a visit... 2WD okay as long as you are in a truck or big van. Beautiful desert in there... the world's tallest boojum trees, too.







[Edited on 1-18-2012 by David K]

Sprocket - 1-18-2012 at 03:39 PM

I have no idea what 'guadalupe rock shrine' you are speaking about near El Marmol road.

La Virgen??

I have traveled to El Marmol, La Virgen(shrine rock) and a window rock all by dirt bike on single track they all seemed close but we didnt use roads and you do loose track of time on bikes.

[Edited on 1-18-2012 by Sprocket]

[Edited on 1-18-2012 by Sprocket]

WINDOW ROCK.jpg - 40kB

ArvadaGeorge - 1-18-2012 at 04:14 PM

There is a major shrine on the west side of the road between El Rosario And Marmo Turn . Once you get into the big rocks keep a eye
to the west

David K - 1-18-2012 at 04:23 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by Sprocket
I have no idea what 'guadalupe rock shrine' you are speaking about near El Marmol road.

La Virgen??

I have traveled to El Marmol, La Virgen(shrine rock) and a window rock all by dirt bike on single track they all seemed close but we didnt use roads and you do loose track of time on bikes.

[Edited on 1-18-2012 by Sprocket]

[Edited on 1-18-2012 by Sprocket]


OH, yes... but it has never been refered to as a Guadalupe shrine... but simply as La Virgen.... Thanks for clearing that up.

La Virgen is on the old main road, between the El Marmol road and Cataviña. If you visit historic Agua Dulce, then continue south on the old road to La Virgen, and then you can return to Hwy. 1 or just continue south on the old Baja 1000 road, which rejoins Hwy. 1 right by the Painted Cave parking area.



La Virgen



AGUA DULCE : 29º52.97', 114º49.38'(NAD27)
Elizabeth at Agua Dulce... Turn north from Hwy. 1 between
Km. 160-161 (29º51.56', 114º50.35'). Go 1.4 mi. to old Baja main road , turn left for 0.3 mi. then right 0.3 more. Hike into gully.

From Space!

David K - 1-18-2012 at 04:34 PM






Bajatripper - 1-18-2012 at 06:03 PM

On the Cataviña rock art (I seem to recall reading it's informal name is the nursery), you won't have any problem finding it this time down. They are developing it into a small tourist trap, with a very clearly-marked trail up, going around the left side instead of what always seemed the natural way up, head-on. From the looks of it, I think I was the second person to use one of the two new primitive-style toilets. There's a new parking area and now they make you walk along a trail down the arroyo and up to the cave. I seldom use "you can't miss it" because it usually means you will, but I'd use it in this context.

David, nice pics on the old Virgencita, something only a true "old road buff" would know about. It is one of my favorite spots to take newbies to. I remember the old man who lived there in the 1960s, getting by on selling machaca, coffee and gasoline. I remember something about a fire, but can't quite recall what. Perhaps your family was through the area then and you remember something.

New trail marker leading the way up the hill, past the weird cardon.


View from the top, heading back. Those new markers remind me of DavidK's map posts.


[Edited on 1-19-2012 by Bajatripper]

Bajatripper - 1-18-2012 at 06:12 PM

Some advice on whale-watching at San Ignacio Lagoon, should you make it there. If you approach the camps from the north, the price gets cheaper the further south you get. Last year, we ended up at Campo Cortez, which is the last camp reachable by road (there are some further south, but you have to contract through a tour company to reach them by boat).

A side benefit of going further south is that the whale-watching area is closer-by, so the boat ride isn't very long. That can make a BIG difference on windy, choppy days. The camps reached by boats are near enough to the action to see whales from the comfort of folding chairs set up along the shoreline.

Campo Cortez, from the boat


One of several temporary camps where boat tourists get to watch whales from the shore


[Edited on 1-19-2012 by Bajatripper]

Islandbuilder - 1-18-2012 at 07:49 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by Bajatripper
Some advice on whale-watching at San Ignacio Lagoon, should you make it there. If you approach the camps from the north, the price gets cheaper the further south you get. Last year, we ended up at Campo Cortez, which is the last camp reachable by road (there are some further south, but you have to contract through a tour company to reach them by boat).

A side benefit of going further south is that the whale-watching area is closer-by, so the boat ride isn't very long. That can make a BIG difference on windy, choppy days. The camps reached by boats are near enough to the action to see whales from the comfort of folding chairs set up along the shoreline.

Campo Cortez, from the boat


One of several temporary camps where boat tourists get to watch whales from the shore


[Edited on 1-19-2012 by Bajatripper]


Great info, BT.

Can you just drive up to those camps and hire a panga, or do you need to make prior arrangements?

Thanks.

woody with a view - 1-18-2012 at 07:53 PM

drive right up, as far as the road goes.

Islandbuilder - 1-18-2012 at 07:59 PM

Thanks Woody!

woody with a view - 1-18-2012 at 08:07 PM

the prior arrangement angle is for those less adventurous or those who don't like driving off road. pay more and let someone lead them around by the wallet. Ojo de Liebre/Scammons lagoon is really cool also. camping right at the waters edge or stay in town about an hour away and be on the water early!!!

Shari puts together a gathering every year. we detoured from our vacation in the "area that shall not be named!" last march (right after the tsunami) and met Nomads from all over baja in GN. had a great dinner,breakfast and were on the water around 9am. after communicating with the whales we all went back to our respective corners of baja and continued our vacation......

[Edited on 1-19-2012 by woody with a view]

March 2011 whales 235 (2).jpg - 38kB

post tsunami

woody with a view - 1-18-2012 at 08:16 PM

back at the "area that shall not be named!"

March 2011 whales 235 (1).jpg - 36kB

Bajatripper - 1-18-2012 at 08:44 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by Islandbuilder
Great info, BT.

Can you just drive up to those camps and hire a panga, or do you need to make prior arrangements?

Thanks.


That's exactly what we did. We camped out and then hit the camps just after breakfast. It wouldn't hurt to start your search around 0800-0900, the water is likely to be calmer in the mornings. Just drive from camp to camp, asking what they'll charge you for the trip. The regularly-scheduled tours go out in the morning, around 0800-1000, and then again in the afternoon. If you get there when a tour boat is leaving with space, you stand a chance of getting a better deal, but it will be more crowded. Unless you're hurting for money, crowded isn't the way to go.

Many of the companies offer a discount for state (BCS) residents. I think we paid around 1,500 pesos for a boat we had all to ourselves. There were five of us. We had such luck that we actually got tired of petting a calf as the mother whale circled about, passing under our boat a few times. It was a great (though at times disconcerting) experience.

Islandbuilder - 1-18-2012 at 08:47 PM

Woody;

Very nice!

Mean.

But very nice!

(I wonder if we perhaps met once, probably 5 years ago, at Cerritos? I'm my ideal weight (if I was a foot taller) and have a long gray beard and flesh colored hair)

BT, thank you. I think that's our plan, just show up and climb into a panga. I think Shari is planning another BN meet-up, but I don't think she's set a date yet.

[Edited on 1-19-2012 by Islandbuilder]

LA VIRGEN

David K - 1-20-2012 at 10:14 AM

Here is a photo of La Virgen from last spring taken by John M:




Here it is in 1956 (photo from Howard Gulick):




and in 1961:








From space:



On map:



This 2003 Baja Almanac map incorrectly showed the old road as the paved highway, and the turnoff for 'Faro San Jose' shown is actually La Virgen on the old road.

wilderone - 1-20-2012 at 10:37 AM

"I was told the the road from Rosarito was better of highway 1. Is this true and if so where would I find the entrance off the 1? How long should I plan from the time we leave the highway to San Borja?"

Yes, true. Once you get to Rosarito and turn toward the village (which is strung along Mex. 1 more or less), BEAR LEFT (north) - you really don't get into "town" at all. And then you will see a couple signs. Just stay on the road until you get to the end - takes about an hour depending on how many times you stop to take photos and stop to look at the sand washes or rocky sections. Ask Angel or Henry to take you to see the rock art. I love San Borja - the evening sunsets and morning sunrises are memorable.

tripledigitken - 1-20-2012 at 10:46 AM

Quote:
Originally posted by wilderone
.....Just stay on the road until you get to the end - takes about an hour depending on how many times you stop to take photos and stop to look at the sand washes or rocky sections. Ask Angel or Henry to take you to see the rock art. I love San Borja - the evening sunsets and morning sunrises are memorable.


wilderone,

Ditto to all of the above. Angel was our tour guide in 2006. He is a 6th generation San Borjian.

In the photo, Angel is showing us his grandfathers grave site.







David K - 1-20-2012 at 11:02 AM

Wilderone, when where you last over both roads to the mission? In 2003 the Rosarito road was great, but in 2009 it was way more rutted up and slower than the L.A. Bay road... Interesting to hear when they run a grader over the roads in Baja.

[Edited on 1-20-2012 by David K]

tripledigitken - 1-20-2012 at 11:05 AM

Shows up on my screen. It's posted the same as all my photos.

:?::?::?:

David K - 1-20-2012 at 11:17 AM

Here's when his brother made cover boy of a magazine!

[Edited on 1-20-2012 by David K]

san borja boy-r.JPG - 45kB

tripledigitken - 1-20-2012 at 11:18 AM

Quote:
Originally posted by David K
I got the info box with a red x... I will try something else.


my bad.........should be ok now.

shari - 1-20-2012 at 11:19 AM

you are so right wilderone about the road to San Borja...it takes me forever...i might as well walk it because we have to stop ALOT to photograph some immense cirio out of a Dr. Seuss book.

it is always nice to help out the end of the road folks and i like those rustic cabins at the lagoons edge.

Watching whales is....is a big experience in every way and we are thankful that the shrimp tacos are ready at the restaurant overlooking the inner lagoon calving sanctuary.




you can wander around checking out the displays in the Interpretive Center...or you can catch their van out to the pronghorn antelope project on the other side of the lagoon.



What I like most about these areas is that you are not on anyone elses schedule so you can decide when you want to hop on a panga...you can wait till the tide changes, or sun comes out etc. and go when you want. You can pack a lunch and use the palapas for shelter and shade.

They sometimes arent as busy as the more commercial operations and can be more flexible...but remember, they must be approved and have the permits to do trips. The government is very strict at protecting the safety of the animals as well as the whale watchers.

While many people want to see whales at the peak of the season, January is amazing for seeing newborn calves, mating, and the month old calves learning about boats and humans. This baby was only a day old as it still had the longitudinal folds from being curled up in the womb. The second photo is of mama curling her tail around the baby to protect it.





and dont forget to take a ride out to El Faro...the lighthouse...turn right after the bank...the birding is superb and the clams at the guard shack are awesome.



Have a great time and let us know how it went for you.

[Edited on 1-20-2012 by shari]

[Edited on 1-20-2012 by shari]

David K - 1-20-2012 at 11:20 AM

Here's the family in 2003:







Sarah and Andee are in the second photo... the kids let them ride the mule around.




[Edited on 1-20-2012 by David K]

David K - 1-20-2012 at 11:37 AM

Thanks for fixing the photo link Ken... I see that I had my kids mixed up, that Angel is the older Gerardo brother, not seen in my 2003 photos.

From BajaCat, in my 2009 trip report (on the father and son I pictured above):

David, Jose's full name is JOSE ANGEL GERARDO MONTEON, a fourth generation cochimi , Gerardo is HIS last name , and also I made a mistake on his son's name. Is GENARO GAXIOLA GERARDO not gerardo, sorry about that, I already fix it


[Edited on 1-20-2012 by David K]

Sprocket - 2-15-2012 at 01:07 PM

We just hit the road! I will post up our adventure (vaction) when we get back!

shari - 2-15-2012 at 05:47 PM

hey Sprocket...if you get this...make sure you check out the little hot springs at San Borja too...after the kids ride the Mula...plan to camp there...I think they have little rooms too.

some nomads will be spying on whales with me thursday feb.16th, then the birthday extravaganza on march 3rd...dinner and party on the 2nd...then again on march 9-11 if any of you happen to be in the area!

Sprocket - 2-21-2012 at 10:41 PM

Just got home! Wow awesome time will post soon

whales

captkw - 2-23-2012 at 10:32 AM

HOLA,ya dont have to go to baja to see whale's,,,,only,,only ,if you want to them birthing,,get a grip !!

shari - 2-23-2012 at 11:09 AM

respectfully....seeing whales in the lagoons is far far far superior to seeing them ANYWHERE else in the world...it doesnt even compare. It is truly a unique, phenominal experience unparalled anywhere else...so many whales concentrated in such a small. calm, protected place...mothers with their babies, mating, birthing, friendly encounters etc....it's like whale soup in there!

shari

captkw - 2-23-2012 at 11:16 AM

HOLA, I love whales and get to see them all over the northern pacific,,was cking them out in mag bay when I was a kid...my point is,,,and I'll say it again,,you do not have to go to baja mexico to spend time with whales,,BTW,the baluga whale's in the turnagain arm in AK,,runnig in with the tidal bore is a sight never forgotten,,please excuss my spelling,,it's a awsome day in B.C.S. K&T:cool:

Ken Bondy - 2-23-2012 at 11:48 AM

I agree with shari, seeing what goes on in those Baja lagoons is magnificent, truly a life-changing experience. The only thing I have ever seen that compares is off the north coast of the Dominican Republic in an area called the Silver Banks. It is the primary breeding grounds for the Atlantic humpback population. The unique thing about it is that it is, or was, the only place in the world where the local government permitted you to get into the water with them (on snorkel). The trip is by liveaboard boats only, and they run from Puerto Plata in the Dominican to Grand Turk in the Turks and Caicos. I am not particularly happy with the photos I got on this trip but here is one with a mom and calf:


whales

captkw - 2-23-2012 at 12:02 PM

HOLA, I'm a not one to argue,,but Ive been around baja VERY much....ITs my winter home and as a boat guy that has seen a lot of this planet and whale's..I just ,guess, that seeing a lot of whale's all over this planet...oh never mind,,I guess it's the marketing,that dosnt sit well with me..your right........me stupid and I'll go buy a TV and watch the dis channel,,hell,,last year I saw on nat geo,,some fool's came down here to film the humbolt squid..they started at loreto and a kid on the beach had to tell them to go back north to rosario to find them...DUHHH !!LOL K&T:cool:

[Edited on 2-23-2012 by captkw]