captkw - 5-29-2012 at 11:23 AM
not sure if this is a gonna work
Attachment: crimping.pdf (10kB)
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DavidE - 5-29-2012 at 11:38 AM
Oops! I am going to have to go back and re-do a few tens of thousands of soldered connections I have made in the last 50 years on commercial fishing
vessels, boats, cars, RV's, and alternators, including FAA/PMA certified aircraft work. Almost no alternator sold today does not use soldered
connections inside. Many soldered connections.
I have always used support to enhance the strength of solder to copper junctions. A good three-to-one adhesive lined heat shrink tubing works best for
this. In fact on small unsupported ring terminals like what used to be found on ignition coils, I actually allowed solder to flow on to the ring,
thicken the part, and then harden. This helps reduce fractures between the OEM terminal and start of the soldered barrel.
Crimp well, then solder with 60/40 or 63/37 Sn grade tin/lead solder.
Harbor Freight Tools, sells a good MARINE plastic box assortment of shrink tubing
ICO-RALLY IMO sells the best which is designated HIM. It's adhesive is incredibly strong, and salt water proof.
[Edited on 5-29-2012 by DavidE]
DavidE - 5-29-2012 at 11:47 AM
This is an excellent referral site for this subject
http://www.instructables.com/id/Master-a-perfect-inline-wire...
crimping wire
captkw - 5-29-2012 at 12:03 PM
thank's DAVID E !! I posted that for I think it was bob and susan with the lighthouse avatar and for guys that were wiring a boat the wrong way with
solder !! It's also in the CFR'S part 33 and ABYC rules,,I work as a marine electrical specialist and am always having to "try" and convince guy's
that soldering on a boat is not the way to go!!,,seem's like the best way when in fact it's not..and btw that's my first link i have ever done in my
life !! ;learning @#$%^&*&^% laptop a poco a poco..LOL Capt"k" & Lil Tasha
DavidE - 5-29-2012 at 12:59 PM
You may be interested to note that pure Pb, lead is much more resistant to the effects of salt water and sulfuric acid than Tin/Lead. Au, gold, is
seemingly invulnerable, and I use gold plated terminals whenever I can find them on crucial connections and surfaces.
A HEX DIE (not merely a squeeze crimp) properly applied to a solid or brazed barrel butt connector sheathed in adhesive lined heat shrink tubing is
acceptable in my view. The insulation stripped wire ends can be dipped into silicone grease or better yet copper paste, then squeezed for all it's
worth with a die crimper.
The last commercial king crabber I did, had seventeen miles of wire (including 200' runs of 37 conductor 16 gauge), more than 5,000 soldered
connections, 11 pounds of solder and 800' of HIM tubing, sailed two years after I started working. I last checked on her in 2005. Her skipper said
"The job was incredibly reliable, components failed over a 22 year period, but wire termination failure was zero". I used a homemade blend of LPS3 and
anhydrous lanolin to smother exposed terminations. Each V16/149 Detroit engine had two starter motors. Two 6/71 hydraulic motors and a pair of
generators. Five process control stations and LED warning lamps. Pretty hot stuff for its day.
boat wire
captkw - 5-29-2012 at 01:31 PM
roger/good copy on all !! I use omc triple guard grease in my anchor (brand) cons.and then heat shrink and the liquid electrical tape as a final and
they LAST !! I do solder a little on radar install's and some other rare stuff and the debate on PL-259 goes on and on and on !!! K&T
