BajaNomad

New railings on our new 2nd story

shari - 6-12-2012 at 07:59 PM

I'm pretty happy with how this new cement railing looks on the 2nd floor addition at our place. The challenge here is to use something that wont rust or mould so cement seemed to be the way to go. I love the caprail Roberto put on them too.
Any suggestions for painting it?


It has been pretty exciting to see these new rooms taking shape. We decided instead of 2 rooms upstairs, we would make a nice big suite with a deck around it. It will have a small kitchen, bar, living room, bathroom and separate bedroom.

the guys are polishing the stairway rail too.


the view is stunning and you can see right down into the hole of the blowhole from there!


the tiling is nearly done on the first floor room too...the bar is in and tiled, shower in and bathroom should be done in a couple days too...woo hooo. We hope to have this room ready for fishing season...pray for tuna! (to whatever deity works for you)

Cisco - 6-12-2012 at 08:05 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by shari
I'm pretty happy with how this new cement railing looks on the 2nd floor addition at our place. The challenge here is to use something that wont rust or mould so cement seemed to be the way to go. I love the caprail Roberto put on them too.
Any suggestions for painting it?


It has been pretty exciting to see these new rooms taking shape. We decided instead of 2 rooms upstairs, we would make a nice big suite with a deck around it. It will have a small kitchen, bar, living room, bathroom and separate bedroom.

the guys are polishing the stairway rail too.


the view is stunning and you can see right down into the hole of the blowhole from there!


the tiling is nearly done on the first floor room too...the bar is in and tiled, shower in and bathroom should be done in a couple days too...woo hooo. We hope to have this room ready for fishing season...pray for tuna! (to whatever deity works for you)


Oh Shari, you have done soo much.

It's beautiful.

Does the cement HAVE to be painted for protection? It looks classic as it is.

Congratulations, see you soon.

shari - 6-12-2012 at 08:14 PM

we have been chipping away at this project one bag of cement at a time!
cisco, I too quite like the raw cement look so I would appreciate some suggestions on this and opinions.

I want to put a cement bench up there...wide enough to sleep on.

Nan&D - 6-12-2012 at 08:15 PM

Nicely designeed stairs.
D

KurtG - 6-12-2012 at 08:24 PM

Wow! Lots of changes since I first visited 6 or so years ago. You and Juan have done a beautiful job and I look forward to visiting again soon. What a view from up there!
Kurt

Bajaboy - 6-12-2012 at 08:25 PM

looks beautiful...with all the seagulls maybe white might be a good choice of color:biggrin:

woody with a view - 6-12-2012 at 08:27 PM

you should paint it. concrete will get moldy and crappy looking in no time unless you seal it, either by painting or a concrete sealer. but it looks awesome!

shari - 6-12-2012 at 08:31 PM

prolly right woodman!

the stairs were such a challenge...my eternal thanks to D for hangin in there and getting them right!!!!! gracias amigo

gnukid - 6-12-2012 at 08:35 PM

I painted a railing white and it always looks dirty, I have to wash it and paint it and the white paint comes off and causes white marks on everything including clothes. The cement could be treated and sealed and be very nice, paint should be similar to surroundings, brown, sand or tan to have dust not show. I prefer unpainted for sure, stained and sealed.

shari - 6-12-2012 at 09:00 PM

thanks for that advice...anybody have any suggestions for cement sealer...could we get by with just sealing it and not painting it? figure in the salt spray from the blowhole too.

Ateo - 6-12-2012 at 09:01 PM

I'd paint it similar to the original cement color or go with a darker or lighter brown that'll match the structures brownish color. Hard to say without being there. Either way it looks fricken great.

When you don't know what color to go with, do a painting moratorium for three weeks to get ideas before going for it - that way you won't need to repaint 2 weeks from now.

Maybe light light brown? Like a cappucino or biscotti.....check frazee paints for ideas.

[Edited on 6-13-2012 by ateo]

shari - 6-12-2012 at 09:05 PM

here is a photo of what the house looked like when we first started building onto it....how time flies eh!

Ateo - 6-12-2012 at 09:40 PM

Always a beginning to a dream...yours looks like it's materializing.

vgabndo - 6-12-2012 at 10:09 PM

Shari, I have had experience with a family of products that are very well suited to your needs/wants. This will leave you with the pure concrete look, but will resist staining, help to prevent surface erosion and resist salt intrusion.

It STOPS water penetration so once it is on and cured, any moisture still "curing-out" will have to go where the sealer isn't!

I have successfully installed an expensive hardwood floor over a concrete slab only 16 days old. The stuff is harmless and I put it on with a Hudson Sprayer. It soaks in and reacts with the un-reacted alkali and forms a very hard but somewhat brittle waterproof surface.

http://www.timberprocoatings.com/masonry-finishes/concrete-s...

Now, picking it up in Viscaino may be problematic. :lol:

bigjohn - 6-12-2012 at 10:33 PM

How about a picture from that same vantage point of your home, now? That would be killer! :yes:

bigjohn - 6-12-2012 at 10:35 PM

I guess what I mean is the "After" photo!

Stunning

Mulegena - 6-13-2012 at 05:39 AM

Shari and Juan
I am so so happy for you guys. Wow! What vision and patience-- and dang hard work!

Paint: Check the color swatches at Comex and look for your original exterior wall paint; choose within the same color bar two shades lighter. You can make this your basic interior wall color, too. Two or possibly three shades lighter within the same color family will give definite contrast yet still match perfectly and harmonize with your rock rooms and the blowhole nearby...

or another really cool option, choose a very light pastel blue for the railing and stairs and interior accent colors; this way the railings will be unobtrusive and melt right into the sky and ocean horizon. Gotta have purple undertones to reference your sky and ocean colors unlike over on this side of the peninsula the sea has a turquoise hue. Stay away from green or grey undertones.

Many many blessings from the Spirit of Our Lady of La Bufadora are surely yours.

[Edited on 6-13-2012 by Mulegena to ruminate on color]

[Edited on 6-13-2012 by Mulegena]

desertcpl - 6-13-2012 at 06:58 AM

Quote:
Originally posted by shari
here is a photo of what the house looked like when we first started building onto it....how time flies eh!




Shari

this is amazing,, how about a photo journey thru the years with your place?

paranewbi - 6-13-2012 at 07:07 AM

Awesome Shari!

I'm for the natural cement look.

Eli - 6-13-2012 at 07:19 AM

Beautiful work Shari. Have you considered a concrete stain such as Scofield Lithochrome Chemstain? I don't know what is available in your area, but once stained & sealed, you are done, unless you want to play more down the line, than you can always come back with a different color stain; say you start with copper patina green and could add a blue a few years later or even terracotta, or even paint it someday as our taste and needs tend to change with the years. Although, once you paint, I don't think you can go back and stain. Anyway, these concrete stains can give you a natural stone transparent modeled affect, kind of like marble. You can even fix a botched up dyed concrete finish with these stains. Lithochrome is what I used on all my floors.




[Edited on 6-13-2012 by Eli]

BajaBlanca - 6-13-2012 at 07:37 AM

hard to believe it is the same house ! looking really nice.

David K - 6-13-2012 at 08:30 AM

Very nice Juan y Shari! Looks like a palace!

boe4fun - 6-13-2012 at 09:07 AM

Great work you two, can't wait to get back.

shari - 6-13-2012 at 09:29 AM

I just snapped this photo of our progress to date...that's alot of rock eh! I remember I thought Juan was crazy when he said he wanted a rock wall all around the place!



thanks for the suggestions everyone...I hope someone can bring down some of that magic cement sealer to spray on...that chocolate colour is not the final colour...it's an undercoat. The walls will be sort of the same as the big sign...goldy...I think....or shades of that...I think I will photoshop some colours onto the railing to see what it might look like finished....but I like the idea of just sealing it. Paint just flakes off in the salt air it seems.

[Edited on 6-13-2012 by shari]

shari - 6-13-2012 at 09:55 AM

eli...I googled litacrome and nothing came up?

Paul...when are you coming down...we are gonna need some concrete sealer!

motoged - 6-13-2012 at 09:56 AM

Shari and Juan,
Your hard work looks beautiful...congratulations ....y mas suerte:saint:

Eli - 6-13-2012 at 10:02 AM

I screwed up the spelling but edited above. Try googling Scofield Lithochrome Chemstain. I just did and it worked for me.

Udo - 6-13-2012 at 12:42 PM

That's a helluva lot of work since I was there three weeks ago!

p.s. let me know when someone is coming down your way via Los Angeles or Orange County.
I have a surprise package for Juan. It will fit in a 12"X12" box.

faux marble paint!

durrelllrobert - 6-13-2012 at 02:25 PM

I'm sure you can find a pottery artist down there that could apply a very classy faux marble finish to the ballisters and railing.

woody with a view - 6-13-2012 at 03:04 PM

but that is another type of paint. and then after it fades/peels she'd have to get the guy back.

just seal it.

comitan - 6-13-2012 at 03:06 PM

Shari

The Mexican way, cement, cement powder color, and pegacreto mix with water paint it on.

Pescador - 6-14-2012 at 07:32 AM

I think the best sealer is the 5 X 1 that comes from Comex. Put about two to three coats on with a stout brush. Then You can paint it as any other block. For the area that serves as a handrail, just make sure the paint is Gloss and it will take the hand traffic with only an occasional repaint. I have 5 or 6 years on some of mine and it looks like new.

shari - 6-14-2012 at 07:39 AM

Pescador...would it be possible to just seal it with that and not paint it? I like the Comex idea as it is available in Vizcaino...but painting all those vertical things would take forever...wonder about spraying it on?

Udo...yes, we really want to get these rooms ready for the fall....the downstairs room is now tiled, the bar in and bathroom nearly done...we're on a roll...thanks to abalone!

schwlind - 6-14-2012 at 09:03 AM

Shari,

I assume you used some type of form for the ballisters and if so, where did you find them?

Thanks,
Linda

Mulegena - 6-14-2012 at 09:06 AM

Pescador, would that Comex Sealer repel the salt in the air and earth that plagues concrete here in Baja?

Would it also act as a one-coat primer or would it simply seal new concrete and plaster walls in readiness for primer and paint?

Puckdrop - 6-14-2012 at 09:28 AM

Sherri, hate to be the barer of bad news, but I see a major fault with your beautiful concrete railing. Izaak is going to keep grama very busy runing up and down those stairs when he keeps shooting the puck through those wickets :lol:
Very nice job on the reno's.

shari - 6-14-2012 at 10:53 AM

too funny Puckdriop....I read your first sentance with utter dread...then got to laugh. Izaak LOVES the up-down thing allright and you will see we put the ballisters...thanks for the right word Linda...very close together so that little rascal cant do a dive into the blowhole!

LInda...Juan bought them in Vizcaino where a guy makes them if you want his number...we dont have the mold.

gnukid - 6-14-2012 at 11:31 AM

Quote:
Originally posted by Pescador
I think the best sealer is the 5 X 1 that comes from Comex. Put about two to three coats on with a stout brush. Then You can paint it as any other block. For the area that serves as a handrail, just make sure the paint is Gloss and it will take the hand traffic with only an occasional repaint. I have 5 or 6 years on some of mine and it looks like new.


This comex sealer makes a skin on the cement, which is good except if it cracks then it peels huge sections. This is why I would discourage this type of comex seal and paint so close to the ocean unless you want to repaint it every year.

A cement stain and sealer by itself, not the comex 5x1, would be far less maintenance and looks better. You can do this once and forget about it or redo it on occasion.

You need a good quality cement sealer. They tend to cost about 1000 pesos for a 3-5 gallon bucket. Some are shiny and some are not. The shiny type will dull since its being exposed to salt and mist constantly.

shari - 6-14-2012 at 11:40 AM

muchas gracias gnukid...this is exactly the kind of input I was hoping for here...it is so labour intensive to seal all these ballisters, I want to try to do the right thing from the get-go! keep the ideas coming all...keeping in mind extreme exposure to salt from the blowhole and winds.

Today's chemistry lesson, Class...

Mulegena - 6-14-2012 at 01:07 PM

Lifted from Wikipedia, Concrete Sealers
more than you wanted to know, but need to know anyway, imo.
Hint, seems Shari's balusters need a penetrating sealant, read on...:

"Concrete sealers are applied to concrete to protect it from corrosion. They either block the pores in the concrete to reduce absorption of water and salts or form an impermeable layer which prevents such materials from passing.[1]
Extensive research from concrete authorities in North America – American Concrete Institute, Portland Cement Association, National Ready Mix Concrete Association - confirm that almost all damage to concrete is attributable to moisture intrusion: alkali-silica reaction (ASR), chemical intrusion, freeze/thaw, and corrosion of reinforcements.
There are two main sealer categories: topical sealers (film-forming) and penetrating sealers (reactive).
Penetrating sealers should be properly matched with substrate porosity in order to penetrate the surface, clot, and form a barrier. Penetrating sealers generally do not significantly modify substrate appearance. They are chemically reactive and bond with minerals in cement reducing the amount of free silica available for ASR and reduce moisture required to induce ASR. As well as blocking surface moisture they block subterranean moisture and can reduce efflorescence. Lastly, penetrating sealers can harden and increase the density of concrete, increasing its strength as measured in pounds per square inch (PSI). The Lifespan of these sealers can be nearly permanent.[2]
Today, five major compounds are commonly used in concrete sealers:
Acrylic resins form a topical thin film membrane. Acrylics are affordable and generally simple to apply. They are well known to increase perceived visual enhancement and generally provide good UV protection for colored substrates. They can make substrates slick when wet, sometimes requiring the addition of anti-skid materials. Despite being the softest and least lasting of the major sealer categories, price and convenience make acrylics a very popular choice for residential applications such as stamped concrete and exposed aggregate.
Epoxy. Because epoxy coatings are so strong and durable they trap moisture under the service which will cause the epoxy to bubble and crack. The water it is trapping on the other side wants to come in, and eventually it will! Epoxy sealers are also not permeable to water vapor.[3]
Silicates. Silicates are deep penetrating sealers capillary that stop the wicking process in concrete. The silicate reacts with the free lime in concrete and forms and expanded crystalline structure beneath the surface. These crystals fill the pores of the concrete and prevents the penetration of radon and moisture infiltration by capillary action. The barrier stops water and radon.[4]
Silane/Siloxane. Silane/siloxane sealers are clear water-based, low VOC, ready-to-use, breathable penetrating siloxane/silane water repellent for dense concrete and masonry surfaces – brick, cast concrete and stucco. Silane/siloxane sealers disintegrate quickly from traffic and UV-rays, darken the sealed service and can turn yellow, aren’t paintable and can be very slippery when wet.[5]
Polyester Sealers. Polyester sealers are low viscosity, rapid curing, penetrating sealers that anchor lacquers, urethanes, polyesters, vinyl esters and most epoxies to a variety of substrates. Polyester sealers are strong and effective against water but they do not completely stop the intrusion of vapors and gases.[6]
Several of the above listed sealers can be used in combination. Silanes, silicates and siliconates, which must be applied directly to the substrate, can be very receptive to topical coatings and can be used first in a multi-component system, followed by acrylics or epoxy/urethane systems. Silicates can also be applied as a second step with siliconates as the smaller molecules can provide additional pore closure. Siloxanes and silicones are too topical in nature to be reliably used in conjunction with topical coatings."

acadist - 6-14-2012 at 04:05 PM

Looks great! In your enviroment any paint/sealer will be more of a maintenance item. Plan on every year or two putting on a new coat. Just my 2 cents...from someone who sells paint. Little far but there is a Sherwin-Williams in Loreto. For solid color make sure you get concrete stain thin first coat to absorb into the concrete and second coat to provide protection and even color. For the natural look use a concrete sealer, pretty easy to apply with a bug type sprayer. Your biggest issue in making it last is making sure it is very clean when you paint, salt will not be your friend.

ReBar

O.G. - 6-14-2012 at 06:36 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by shari
prolly right woodman!

the stairs were such a challenge...my eternal thanks to D for hangin in there and getting them right!!!!! gracias amigo




You should have left that ReBar sticking up, Shari. To give it that authentic look.:lol:

Iflyfish - 6-14-2012 at 07:22 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by shari
here is a photo of what the house looked like when we first started building onto it....how time flies eh!



Wow, you will always feel a sense of accomplishment when you look at your beautiful home. You guys have manifested your dream. I am in awe!! Just beautiful!

Iflyfish

Ken Bondy - 6-14-2012 at 07:56 PM

OK sis you need some advice from a concrete expert. That's me, your bro. First, "cement" in your context is a white powdery substance that comes in 94# bags and is one of the three ingredients that makes up concrete (the other two are aggregate (rocks and/or sand) and water). Your beautiful rails are CONCRETE, not cement. Never forget that :). Don't waste your time and money on coatings on concrete in a coastal environment. The best thing that you can do to concrete after it hydrates (sets up or hardens) is to keep it permanently under water, and that includes salt water. Think bridge foundations. So from a durability standpoint coatings are of no value on concrete, however they may be aesthetically pleasing, your choice. But don't ever let anybody tell you that you need to smear anything on concrete to make it more durable in a coastal environment.

shari - 6-14-2012 at 08:29 PM

oh my word...brother...mil disculpas for the cement/concrete mix up...I am blonde after all! I do hope our railings are never underwater..but they do get daily spray from the blowhole.

So why does concrete break down and sort of slough off? And why do they make all those concrete sealants? I would be just fine leaving it au naturel if it wasnt going to break down...it is a windy spot too...will it just erode away? Are you SURE we shouldnt seal it? We sure could use the money saved on other things.

Bob H - 6-14-2012 at 09:06 PM

Shari, your place looks amazing! It just keeps growing and growing.

Listen to Ken Bondy, he knows what he's talking about. This subject is his livelyhood and he's an expert when it comes to concrete/cement, etc!

vgabndo - 6-14-2012 at 10:03 PM

Now Ken you well know how high you stand on my list of "respectables", but I'd really like to hear your argument against polymer sealants which have proven to virtually eliminate the intrusion of water into finished concrete. I would cite their use on sidewalks in the north to prevent the spalling from freeze/thaw as proof of their effectiveness as a waterproofer. It seems that anything that makes it take longer for the inevitable intrusion of salt water onto the rebar would be a positive thing. If a baluster cracks the oxidation will swell the steel, and the little post might just pop. A surface sealant won't stop that, but flexible caulking maintenance would help. I'm curious!

Ken Bondy - 6-15-2012 at 04:17 AM

vgabundo and shari

Elastomeric coatings are fine for preventing water intrusion through cracks in concrete and I have specified them many times on roofs. However for this application I am dubious that a coating would provide much benefit. After hydration (the initial chemical reaction between the water and the cement) the best thing you can do to concrete is to keep it wet. The highest quality concrete (strength, durability, permeability) is concrete that is kept permanently underwater, like in bridge foundations. A coating on a concrete rail such as this may be aesthetically pleasing and it may help to retain some excess mixing water (which is good), but I don't think it is necessary for the long term performance of the rail. One thing shari said does concern me and that is the salt spray. Low quality concrete with a high water-to-cement ratio can be susceptible to spalling from excessive wetting and drying. That might be the only valid reason for a coating.

Russ - 6-15-2012 at 06:11 AM

I had them at my 1st place down here. they're still there 17 years later and I doubt they have been repainted. So IMHO I think a quality solid body stain would work well. I've used stain on my new place and it's working great.


[Edited on 6-15-2012 by Russ]

woody with a view - 6-15-2012 at 06:19 AM

she needs to seal that concrete from the salt spray in the air. apples to apples and a scientific explanation of the properties of, ahem, concrete don't negate the fact that the concrete WILL mold/stain on the ocean side, WILL crack in short order and WILL be better protected by a quality sealer.

just do it!

Puckdrop - 6-15-2012 at 06:33 AM

Oh Shari, by this time you must be totally confused and just want to go have a couple of tequila's. having been in the construction industry for the past 39 years I really have to concur with Ken. Concrete is one of mans best inventions. You can shape in into any shape you want and maintain it's structural integrity. No need to do anything to it, just pour let it cure and it will stand the test of time for hundreds of years. Case and point, the Roman Colosseum, and hundreds of 700 year old churches in Europe ! The only thing that might have been applied to those concrete structures is a bit of pee from the local town drunks !It really comes down to appearance. Do you want to have el-natural look or spiff it up with color ? Sealants and all other concrete products are nothing but some company's trying to make money. Sorry to confuse you even more but that's my 39 year 2 cent worth of advice.:P

Ken Bondy - 6-15-2012 at 07:17 AM

Sis, I don't want to start any more wars:). Based on my experience (50 years now) with the design and construction of hundreds of concrete buildings in coastal areas of Florida, Hawaii, and California, including many within a few feet of the surf line, and what i know about your project, I would not apply a coating if it was my railing. I think the money could be better spent elsewhere. But if you feel more comfortable with some form of coating, by all means start painting:). Other than cost there is no downside to painting on a coating, particularly if it makes you feel better.

woody with a view - 6-15-2012 at 07:20 AM

^^^^what he said^^^^

durrelllrobert - 6-15-2012 at 07:49 AM

Quote:
Originally posted by Ken Bondy
vgabundo and shari

Elastomeric coatings are fine for preventing water intrusion through cracks in concrete and I have specified them many times on roofs. However for this application I am dubious that a coating would provide much benefit. After hydration (the initial chemical reaction between the water and the cement) the best thing you can do to concrete is to keep it wet. The highest quality concrete (strength, durability, permeability) is concrete that is kept permanently underwater, like in bridge foundations. A coating on a concrete rail such as this may be aesthetically pleasing and it may help to retain some excess mixing water (which is good), but I don't think it is necessary for the long term performance of the rail. One thing shari said does concern me and that is the salt spray. Low quality concrete with a high water-to-cement ratio can be susceptible to spalling from excessive wetting and drying. That might be the only valid reason for a coating.

Hey Ken, since you are in the biz I'm sure you are familar with KIM ADMIX for waterproofing concrete. The Navy uses it a lot for underwater structures but of course it is added into the concrete pour; not after the 28 day cure. The same company that makes that(http://www.kryton.com ) also makes a sealant that is applied afterwards and is used on repairing/ sealing cracks, etc. on ferro-cement boats. Only reason is to protect the embeded rebar which will ruin a ferro-cement hull if it begains to rust; much like the rebar in the ballisters.

shari - 6-15-2012 at 07:59 AM

oh this IS rich! I just knew a Nomad brother would come to my aid. One of the man things I love about our rock rooms is that we dont have to seal and paint them...ever! No unsightly paint peeling, colour matching, painting..and it always looks great...low maintenance which is my motto! So I am happy to go with the unpainted, untreated if the experts say so.

I am a bit concerned with the "Low quality concrete with a high water-to-cement ratio can be susceptible to spalling from excessive wetting and drying. " as Ken mentioned...this is most likely the case on the hand rail on top anyway...the actual spindles look pretty skookum...but the top rail may have some quality cement issues....and they do get wet and dry from the blowhole on a daily basis...with salt water...hmmm

Ken Bondy - 6-15-2012 at 08:07 AM

shari did you cast the verticals yourself onsite or did you buy them from a fabricator? Do you know if they contain any reinforcing steel?

shari - 6-15-2012 at 08:11 AM

we purchased them in Vizcaino...they seem pretty solid and have a rebar down the middle.

Russ - 6-15-2012 at 08:13 AM

I agree with Ken.
Example of how forgiving cement is. All the homes here until recently used beach sand for their cement mixes. Block, mortar, brown coat and slabs. Most are in fair shape. The ones that are not holding up well are because the contractors save $ by using less cement.
I painted exterior of homes for a couple years and homes that used a stain rather than paint were by far easier to maintain and restrain over the home that were painted. No chipping or sanding stain. just a quick wash and reapply.:tumble:
Stain quality today is far better than in the past and color choices are almost equal to paint.
I can also imagine Shari's blasters in bright colors.

[Edited on 6-15-2012 by Russ]

vgabndo - 6-15-2012 at 11:16 AM

Thanks for that Ken, and everyone else. I'm hearing that the problem is really that NOTHING is going to be very effective in preventing deterioration in that "damned near built on a pier" location and that the decision is less one of effectiveness of a sealer, than of the ultimate waste of money trying to fool mother nature!

I've heard that under the best of conditions, concrete keeps getting harder for about the first 200 years. In my judgement the problem will be inadequate sealant on the REBAR which will not get stronger for 200 years in a salt saturated environment!

There is a price to be paid for being able to sit at home and look down into a Pacific blowhole!!!

Given how often your are going to be able to keep those rooms rented Shari, I'll bet you can afford to replace some concrete every decade or so!

What an absolute "one of a kind" place!

Ken Bondy - 6-15-2012 at 12:29 PM

Thanks for that vgabndo. I was sorry to hear that the vertical members contain a piece of rebar "down the middle". That's a shame. A longitudinal bar in that application provides no benefit and presents the possibility for corrosion and splitting. If the bar can be seen at the ends of the members, as I presume it can, THAT'S where a coating would be useful :)

woody with a view - 6-15-2012 at 12:31 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by vgabndo
Thanks for that Ken, and everyone else. I'm hearing that the problem is really that NOTHING is going to be very effective in preventing deterioration in that "damned near built on a pier" location and that the decision is less one of effectiveness of a sealer, than of the ultimate waste of money trying to fool mother nature!

I've heard that under the best of conditions, concrete keeps getting harder for about the first 200 years. In my judgement the problem will be inadequate sealant on the REBAR which will not get stronger for 200 years in a salt saturated environment!

There is a price to be paid for being able to sit at home and look down into a Pacific blowhole!!!

Given how often your are going to be able to keep those rooms rented Shari, I'll bet you can afford to replace some concrete every decade or so!

What an absolute "one of a kind" place!


^^^^what he said!^^^^:cool:

shari - 6-15-2012 at 01:07 PM

the itty bitty inch or so of rebar sticking up from the ends is there so it can be tied into the bottom curb and put a top handrail on it with rebar in it too for strength.

pretty awesome to have a cement guy on this forum!

Ken Bondy - 6-17-2012 at 08:03 AM

Quote:
Originally posted by shari
the itty bitty inch or so of rebar sticking up from the ends is there so it can be tied into the bottom curb and put a top handrail on it with rebar in it too for strength.

pretty awesome to have a cement guy on this forum!


The inch or so of bar sticking out from the ends won't provide any help in anchoring the vertical to the top rail and bottom curb (way too short), but as long as these exposed pieces of bar are embedded in concrete they should be protected from corrosion.