BajaNomad

San Pedro Martir National Park

Ateo - 9-8-2012 at 12:02 PM

We bailed North County just after 5PM, missing Back To School Night (Teacher said that was FINE - as we'd be seeing a whole heck of a lot cooler stuff) and got on the I-5 southbound. To my dismay, no traffic until we hit the South Bay where we encountered a truck fire.






Was this an omen? Would we lose our lives in a massive inferno at San Pedro Martir? The mystery of the Park would soon reveal itself.............but first we stayed the night at our old dig in Ensenada -- Hotel Coronado. Look it up next time if you're looking for a cheap place to stay ($30). I once left an ice chest full of beer in the parking lot on the way to Scorpion Bay. When I returned 10 days later, the owner had it waiting for me, not one beer touched.

Unfortunately I didn't take any good pics but here's the view from the parking lot:






The next morning, we were amped to get going and see this new (to us) section of Baja. For years I had driven past the turnoff to the park, en route to some other locale, never wondering what was up the road. In fact, this was the first Baja trip that I didn't bring a wetsuit and surfboard with me. Actually, that's not true.......San Felipe and Tecate trips didn't have boards either.......oh well, it sounded right at first. Anyway, the whole no surfboard thing kind of stung for a bit, because the biggest swell of the Summer was gonna be hitting while I was on top of a mountain. Woody with a View tried to entice me over to his surf camp, but I held my ground, barely....................I'm glad I made my decision, as I discovered a whole new Baja playground, full of awe, wonder and exploration.















The drive in was a definite highlight. I can't even imagine doing it before the pavement was there. Ok, I can imagine it, but I wouldn't want to do it -- especially on the limited time that we had. Pay attention, as the road curves and winds and excessive speed will hurl you and your belongings over a 2000 foot cliff, surely to your death. More photos:









Approaching the park:



Thanks for the mountain lion reminder park service.......I hate those suckers..... after hearing a story about a father/daughter mountain lion encounter that didn't go well. Guess it's good to be aware though.....



No rangers were at the park entrance, so we came back the next morning and paid our fees.







We drove into the park and realized we were basically alone. We were alone in our campground, until Saturday night when 2 other families pulled in. Still they were out of ear and eyesight.....we didn't even know they were there till we were leaving Sunday.






We set up camp and got in the rig to explore the park. It had rained a few hours ago and there was some debris on the roads.













We wre late for the Observatory. Only open 10AM to 1PM. We'll come back manana.







Mountain Lion protection.




As Graham and Astrobaja told me -- plenty of firewood around. Don't waste any space hauling firewood up the mountain.







We told the kids they could make a fire, but without matches or a lighter. It worked.

We ate a great dinner and entered dreamland shortly thereafter. We were awoken around 4AM by coyote howls, then barks. Sounded just like a dog. Maybe 30 feet from the tent. This went on and on.....bark, bark, bark, bark, for 45 minutes. At one point I got out of the tent shouting and shining my flashlight but that didn't do anything. Bark, bark, bark, bark. Finally it just stopped and we fell back to sleep.


The next day we headed back to the Observatory, arriving exactly at 10AM. We joined a Mexican family for an epic tour of the telescope.








This was the view of Picacho Del Diablo from the observatory. Diablo is the highest point in all of Baja at 10,157 feet. We'd see better views later that day.....



The telescope




The view out the door at the top of the telescope. Someone fell to their death here a few years ago. I didn't venture outside.



The stairs leading up and down to the telescope. At that high altitude it was very hard climbing up......








Next, we headed over for a 8KM (total) hike to the Mirador El Altar. There some extreme steep grades heading up that required a few rests, but overall anyone in average shape could do this hike.








Release zone for Condors.....








At the top we reached a meadow with tons of cattle.












We then hiked over the to the Mirador Picacho.














Coming down the mountain!




The museum was closed for our entire stay. The rangers were kind of vague about when it would be open.....Graham, any thoughts?

We left the kids at camp and decided to do another hike, just my wife and I. The trailhead was in our campground so we couldn't pass it up. We saw deer, quail, and a coyote. See if you can see the little bugger in the photo.










Our time in the park was over. We were content and got our fill. There's still plenty more to see, and we'll do that next time............


We headed down the mountain. Next stop was Baja Dark Skies Inn. We passed thru scorched trees and chaparral on our way to the Inn. I remember Astrobaja recently posting on Nomad regarding the fire that was close to his property. Boy was it close!!









The ride in to Baja Dark Skies Inn





We arrived and were instantly and kindly greeted by Mike and Pamela. They gave us a tour of the Inn and surrounding ranch. Nowhere the last 3 days in the National Park did I see a body of water or stream, but they had one right in their backyard. All the H2O they would ever need. How valuable in a place like Baja!



The guest house......so clean and great artwork inside.



600 year old oak tree (estimate). In 1412 this tree was a baby. No Columbus or Cortez in this part of the world yet either......


Mike and Pamela showing us around. They have a slice of heaven.



Tons of apples. May be used to flavor beer I hear????



Astrobaja's backyard view


The highlight at the Inn was getting to see the telescope. I can't wait to go back and look back 9 billion years into the past. That's the light that this telescope can pick up. Light that left 9 billion years ago, entering the eyepiece, then to be interpreted by your brain. Pretty amazing stuff.





I must again thank Mike and Pamela for showing us around. It was a pleasure to meet you both -- and we'll be back soon! It was nice talking astronomy with you Astrobaja!

We headed out, back to the paved road, but not before stopping a few times to marvel at the beautiful landscape.








Nothing more to say, except it was a great trip. We stopped in Ensenada and got Carne Tortas at this place. Pretty damn good.




We headed to Tecate and had a 5 minute wait in the Ready Lane (Sunday afternoon).

Thanks Graham, Astrobaja, and other Nomads for the intel. You made the trip that much richer! Thanks.

-Ateo



[Edited on 9-8-2012 by Ateo]

[Edited on 9-8-2012 by Ateo]

[Edited on 9-8-2012 by Ateo]

TMW - 9-8-2012 at 12:25 PM

Wow that was excellent, thanks. You had me out of wind on the hike.

willardguy - 9-8-2012 at 12:46 PM

do they let you peer thru the telescope at night?

Ateo - 9-8-2012 at 12:47 PM

Thanks TW. The view from the Mirador at the end of the hike was insane. Still does something to my stomach just looking at the picture.

Quote:
Originally posted by TW
Wow that was excellent, thanks. You had me out of wind on the hike.

Ateo - 9-8-2012 at 12:49 PM

Not that I'm aware of. Maybe they have special times where they let the public in for viewing? Astrobaja would know.

Quote:
Originally posted by willardguy
do they let you peer thru the telescope at night?

Bajaboy - 9-8-2012 at 01:17 PM

excellent report

Ken Cooke - 9-8-2012 at 01:33 PM

Great pictures! I'm with TW on the hike up Mirador el Altar. Years past, I drove up that trail and into the aspen forest. Good exercise on foot, though.

J.P. - 9-8-2012 at 01:45 PM

We were allowed to go out on the upper most cat walk that goes around the structer, Fabolous 360 Viev I have a lot of pictures maybe some day I will master loading them om this site.

Ateo - 9-8-2012 at 01:48 PM

Hey Ken,

I kept wondering if they used to allow vehicles on that trail. It was obvious there were old car tracks. I kind of figured the rangers still drive up there often. I would've loved a lift in the Jeep......

BornFisher - 9-8-2012 at 02:08 PM

Great report and pics, gracias!!

woody with a view - 9-8-2012 at 02:09 PM

we almost came up to find you on saturday. detoured to the modelorama in your foto and returned to surf the brains out. looks like a cool trip. a good friend went up to rancho coyote to set up a quail hunt later in the month. we were gonna tag along but the surf was calling.

Ken Cooke - 9-8-2012 at 02:27 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by Ateo
Hey Ken,

I kept wondering if they used to allow vehicles on that trail. It was obvious there were old car tracks. I kind of figured the rangers still drive up there often. I would've loved a lift in the Jeep......


The trail was not gated at the time. The gate at La Tasajera can be driven around in a Pinto. La Tasajera contains a nice meadow with a stream where the endemic San Pedro Martir Trout can be seen.

David K - 9-8-2012 at 03:12 PM

WINNER!!! I like what you posted Ateo... Glad you got the Photobucket issue worked out!

bacquito - 9-8-2012 at 04:30 PM

Great report-I hope to return to the area some day soon.

Ateo - 9-8-2012 at 07:54 PM

Ken,
Thanks for that Trout link. Led me to some decent old stories of Baja.

Quote:
Originally posted by Ken Cooke
Quote:
Originally posted by Ateo
Hey Ken,

I kept wondering if they used to allow vehicles on that trail. It was obvious there were old car tracks. I kind of figured the rangers still drive up there often. I would've loved a lift in the Jeep......


The trail was not gated at the time. The gate at La Tasajera can be driven around in a Pinto. La Tasajera contains a nice meadow with a stream where the endemic San Pedro Martir Trout can be seen.

Marc - 9-9-2012 at 07:19 AM

Fun report. Can I get there from Mex3 or Mex5? Or only from Mex1?

astrobaja - 9-9-2012 at 08:00 AM

Ateo: thanks for a great trip report, and also for the kind words about our place here in the sierra! It was a real pleasure to meet you and your family!! Look forward to showing you some celestial sights!

The observatorio national does not let the public look through any of their scopes at night, all of the telescope time is sold to astronomers from all over the world. There are actually only a very few professional observatories that arrange special nights where the public can look through the giant scopes. Kitt Peak is one, and I believe mount Wilson is another. McDonald observatory in west Texas has one night a year where you can look through their 82 inch scope (I did it once, it was awesome). Most observatories have separate visitor centres with smaller instruments for public viewing. In talking to the past and present director there are plans underway to construct such a spot, perhaps near the museum. BTW for the museum all you need to do is ask and they will open it for you, especially if it is a larger group.

wessongroup - 9-9-2012 at 09:20 AM

Thanks much for the "trip" ... really nice ...

acadist - 9-9-2012 at 09:33 AM

Awesome pictures, looks like a great trip. Didn't know there was anywhere in Baja I didn't need to bring my own firewood:D

David K - 9-9-2012 at 10:32 AM

Quote:
Originally posted by Marc
Fun report. Can I get there from Mex3 or Mex5? Or only from Mex1?


From Mex. 3 near San Matias is the road to Mike's Sky Rancho (20 mi.), beyond Mike's to the Observatory highway you should have an off road vehicle or 4WD.

From Mex. 5, you need to go to Mex. 3 and see the above note.

If you don't have a 4WD or wish to drive on a difficult road, then going around to Mex. 1 south of Colonet is the only option.

[Edited on 9-18-2012 by David K]

David K - 9-9-2012 at 10:36 AM

Quote:
Originally posted by astrobaja
Ateo: thanks for a great trip report, and also for the kind words about our place here in the sierra! It was a real pleasure to meet you and your family!! Look forward to showing you some celestial sights!

The observatorio national does not let the public look through any of their scopes at night, all of the telescope time is sold to astronomers from all over the world. There are actually only a very few professional observatories that arrange special nights where the public can look through the giant scopes. Kitt Peak is one, and I believe mount Wilson is another. McDonald observatory in west Texas has one night a year where you can look through their 82 inch scope (I did it once, it was awesome). Most observatories have separate visitor centres with smaller instruments for public viewing. In talking to the past and present director there are plans underway to construct such a spot, perhaps near the museum. BTW for the museum all you need to do is ask and they will open it for you, especially if it is a larger group.


Mike, what is the size of the Baja telescope mirror in inches? I have been to Palomar many times (in my 'back yard') and know it is a 200 inch mirror, and for most of my life was the biggest in the world.
Thanks!

bajaandy - 9-9-2012 at 10:57 AM

Excellent report! Like you, it took many, many trips to Baja before I made it up there to explore. What a wonderful part of Baja that so many never expect to see, and fewer still actually will. Nice picture essay of your trip. And very nice pictures of Picacho del Diablo. (I finally climbed that sucker a few years ago. There's a trip report floating around here on Nomads somewhere...)
Good on ya for leaving the sticks at home for once and exploring what is truly "another world" in Baja!

Ateo - 9-9-2012 at 11:29 AM

Thanks BajaAndy.

I need to find your trip report. Looking at that mountain made me realize anyone who could climb to the top had some serious cajones.

Quote:
Originally posted by bajaandy
Excellent report! Like you, it took many, many trips to Baja before I made it up there to explore. What a wonderful part of Baja that so many never expect to see, and fewer still actually will. Nice picture essay of your trip. And very nice pictures of Picacho del Diablo. (I finally climbed that sucker a few years ago. There's a trip report floating around here on Nomads somewhere...)
Good on ya for leaving the sticks at home for once and exploring what is truly "another world" in Baja!

Ateo - 9-9-2012 at 11:32 AM

DK, I think the the largest in the park is 83". There are 2 other smaller ones (I think).

bajaandy - 9-9-2012 at 12:18 PM

Here ya go...



Quote:
Originally posted by Ateo
Thanks BajaAndy.

I need to find your trip report. Looking at that mountain made me realize anyone who could climb to the top had some serious cajones.

Quote:
Originally posted by bajaandy
Excellent report! Like you, it took many, many trips to Baja before I made it up there to explore. What a wonderful part of Baja that so many never expect to see, and fewer still actually will. Nice picture essay of your trip. And very nice pictures of Picacho del Diablo. (I finally climbed that sucker a few years ago. There's a trip report floating around here on Nomads somewhere...)
Good on ya for leaving the sticks at home for once and exploring what is truly "another world" in Baja!
Picacho Del Diablo

Bajaboy - 9-9-2012 at 01:50 PM

Sunday just before 2:00 got this message:
Atencion!! En estos momentos el parque nacional se encuentra bajo una intensa lluvia acompañada de tormentas eléctricas por seguridad se recomienda abstenerse a visitar el área natural protegida.

astrobaja - 9-9-2012 at 02:23 PM

Bajaboy: yup I can vouch for that;D Raining very hard for quite a few hours now with more coming on the radar!

David yeah Ateo got it right its an 83" (tiny by modern standards) the 1.5 meter is de-commisioned for a while and there is a 34" scope too. Long range plans are for a 6 meter (240 inch) scope.

David K - 9-9-2012 at 03:14 PM

Great. I hope they get the 240 inch scope.

BajaGeoff - 9-17-2012 at 02:25 PM

Really nice report! Gracias!

Great Stuff!

El Vergel - 9-18-2012 at 06:01 PM

Thanks for sharing a most excellent Trip Report.

Ateo - 9-18-2012 at 06:07 PM

I really think this park is very special. It deserves more visitors.

WideAngleWandering - 9-22-2012 at 10:53 PM

It's beautiful and quite empty. I was up there for a few days and I didn't see a soul, except the park ranger at the gate and one guy walking down the road removing rocks.

The visitor's center looked snazzy but it was locked up so I couldn't go in.

bryanmckenzie - 9-24-2012 at 07:10 PM

Most excellent trip report & pictures, Ateo. It's great to see other Nomads exploring that little piece of Baja that few others do. After two visits, I have yet to get to the Observatorio when they are open and it fits my schedule. The next time, I'm throwing the schedule away and making time for more hiking, visiting the Sky Ranch and see the observatory. My April trip report is also floating around on one of these forums --- it includes pictures & video of camping in freezing rain and snow and hellaciously high winds, ugh!

Did you get some decals for your car? I've got mine on the side window.

[Edited on 2012-9-25 by bryanmckenzie]

Ateo - 9-24-2012 at 07:38 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by bryanmckenzie
Most excellent trip report & pictures, Ateo. It's great to see other Nomads exploring that little piece of Baja that few others do. After two visits, I have yet to get to the Observatorio when they are open and it fits my schedule. The next time, I'm throwing the schedule away and making time for more hiking, visiting the Sky Ranch and see the observatory. My April trip report is also floating around on one of these forums --- it includes pictures & video of camping in freezing rain and snow and hellaciously high winds, ugh!

Did you get some decals for your car? I've got mine on the side window.

[Edited on 2012-9-25 by bryanmckenzie]


Bryan,

You're trip report was one that led me to SPMartir. Because of your post -- I got the experience. Muchas gracias amigo. Serious. Thanks.

David K - 9-24-2012 at 08:09 PM

Trip reports are the best!

bryanmckenzie - 9-25-2012 at 01:59 PM

De nada, amigo. I'm so glad that someone else got to enjoy this slice of heaven, so different from the rest of Baja.

Quote:
You're trip report was one that led me to SPMartir. Because of your post -- I got the experience. Muchas gracias amigo. Serious. Thanks.




[Edited on 2012-9-25 by bryanmckenzie]

GE KML file: Observatorio Nacional San Pedro Martir

bryanmckenzie - 10-8-2012 at 10:31 AM

This should work if you simply click on this Google Earth KML file.

Ateo's Baja Nomad trip report

If not, right-click this link to download it & save it to your own computer; then double-click the file on your computer to open it using Google Earth software.

PM me is you have problems so that I correct them.

1400 pixel image here. San Felipe is on the horizon beyond the famous hilltop. The observatory is behind the two ridge lines to protect against ambient light sources from the San Felipe "metropolitan" area.



[Edited on 2012-10-8 by bryanmckenzie]

[Edited on 2012-10-8 by bryanmckenzie]

David K - 10-8-2012 at 07:08 PM

Very cool with snow on the ground, even! Hey Bryan, please see u2u about helping me with a GE map.

Ateo - 10-8-2012 at 07:22 PM

Was able to see it on the 1400 pixel image link. Pretty cool. Is that San Felipe on the ocean center screen? I wasn't able to see it in person from the peaks.

David K - 10-8-2012 at 10:18 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by Ateo
Was able to see it on the 1400 pixel image link. Pretty cool. Is that San Felipe on the ocean center screen? I wasn't able to see it in person from the peaks.


Yes... and correct, Diablo Mountain is between the observatories and San Felipe (as Bryan said, it is to block out the city lights).

EdZeranski - 10-10-2012 at 08:53 PM

Wow, thats a great report, thanks!! Memories, memories! I have not been up to San Pedro Martir for quite a while. The first time was in the early-mid '70s with my '67 VW Westfalia camper. That was slow going over unpaved track up to Melling Ranch from Colonet on the first day then on to San PM the next. Melling Ranch was really fun. We camped and hiked for about a week then crawled into San Vincente on fumes, gas could get scarce back then. The Jeffery pines smelled like vanilla rather than butterscotch like in the sierras....or was it the other way?? Anyway, wil be headed south next Wednesday for a few weeks.

EdZ KG6UTS
Ocean Beach/Borrego Springs

bryanmckenzie - 10-11-2012 at 07:33 AM

One cannot see San Felipe from up there as it is behind the hilltop; just as when you are in San Felipe, you cannot see the peak/observatory. At least not until you go out on the water a few miles, like in this photo I took last year; Picacho el Diablo is off to the right.

Quote:
Originally posted by Ateo
Was able to see it on the 1400 pixel image link. Pretty cool. Is that San Felipe on the ocean center screen? I wasn't able to see it in person from the peaks.





[Edited on 2012-10-11 by bryanmckenzie]

Ateo - 10-11-2012 at 07:38 AM

Very nice Bryan. Thanks for the visual explanation.