BajaNomad

Santa Rosalia, B.C.S: Baja's Daily Bread

Gypsy Jan - 12-15-2012 at 02:38 PM

From The OC Weekly

To view the original article and a whole bunch of beautiful photos, go to: http://tinyurl.com/btueryj

By Bill Esparza

"One of the many generous concessions to foreign investors during the Porfiriato was a 70-year contract granted to the Compagnie du Boleo to mine copper in the town of Santa Rosalia,B.C.S from 1885 until their tax exemption ended in 1954. The venture ended in a state of bankruptcy, and all attempts since then to revive the mine haven't been profitable. The French mining company installed a prefabricated metal church designed by Alexandre Gustav Eiffel, French architecture, and a bakery to give homesick Frenchmen the dignity of fresh baguettes.

It took a few years for Panaderia El Boleo to arrive(there must of been mutinous talk at the close of the 19th Century),but it was clearly designed to feed an army of workers with its gigantic ovens. I had never lucked out driving to and from Loreto to experience Santa Rosalia by day--at night it almost feels like a ghost town--until a few summers ago when I got to see the Southern Baja California's northernmost outpost on the Sea of Cortez at sunrise. We had to wait for signs of life in the sleepy town that France forgot, but were rewarded with some of the best pan dulce I've ever tasted--this is a required stop for all Baja adventurers road-ripping the peninsula.

Santa Rosalia doesn't have beautiful beaches, and probably only sees action for a few hours a day before the slumbering town closes down the few businesses that are scattered throughout its quiet streets. On the other hand, It's a gorgeous place to take a stroll and experience a very different piece of Mexico--it looks like a lost village of New England with really amazing fish tacos. Stop by the church to see classic French architecture from the mind of Monsieur Eiffel himself.

It's a peaceful, and beautiful old town--there's something special about the clapboard housing in this unspoiled setting, just be sure to stop at the ATM here if you're heading on to Loreto or beyond, because there are no ATM's on the road from Santa Rosalia to Loreto."

mulegejim - 12-15-2012 at 02:58 PM

"It's a peaceful, and beautiful old town--there's something special about the clapboard housing in this unspoiled setting, just be sure to stop at the ATM here if you're heading on to Loreto or beyond, because there are no ATM's on the road from Santa Rosalia to Loreto."

There is one in Mulege at this time - it is at the bank in town. Jim

DENNIS - 12-15-2012 at 03:27 PM

That Panaderia has been famous for a long time. Wish it was up here.

baja Steve - 12-15-2012 at 03:42 PM

Two ATM's in Mulege. One at the police station and one at the bank.

Boleo

tripledigitken - 12-15-2012 at 04:36 PM

Always on the list of places to go. Their rolls make a very good bread pudding!



durrelllrobert - 12-15-2012 at 04:43 PM

great photos! (http://tinyurl.com/btueryj

willardguy - 12-15-2012 at 04:45 PM

isnt the panaderia famous for baking using seagull eggs? and created some kind of environmental / political uproar? :?:

DENNIS - 12-15-2012 at 05:13 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by willardguy
isnt the panaderia famous for baking using seagull eggs? and created some kind of environmental / political uproar? :?:


Jeeezo....I hope so. I knew there was a good reason somewhere. :lol:

good bread

captkw - 12-15-2012 at 05:24 PM

I stopped there around 10 years ago and had some sweet bread (good) and was looking for sour dough...no luck !! this little village also has a good auto parts....K&T:cool:

Leo - 12-15-2012 at 06:47 PM

Always one of our stops down the peninsula. Photogenic, good bread and one of the first ATM's in Southern Baja.

BajaBlanca - 12-15-2012 at 07:59 PM

we always buy a stash of bread !

Bajaboy - 12-15-2012 at 08:06 PM

good pizza in town, too

Paula - 12-15-2012 at 08:47 PM

Air and Fire, a novel by Rupert Thomson

This is a beautifully written love story set in Santa Rosalia in the early days of the mines and the town.

Reading it may cause you to go to great lengths to return there and try to find the exact locales where the story takes place.

captkw - 12-15-2012 at 08:49 PM

Think copper

shari - 12-15-2012 at 10:17 PM

hmmm...odd...Sta.Rosalia has a vibrant night life...much more than any other town in baja it's size. The main street and plaza is full of people of all ages at night...not at all a ghost town after the sun goes down.

sea gull eggs in the bread...wow...I've never heard that before...what a novel idea. I love sea gull eggs!

HOLA,,Shari

captkw - 12-15-2012 at 10:21 PM

Are you folks still slammin fish today...PS you are puttin AS on the map all by your self !!! Cool !! cabo is NOT all baja !! K&T

[Edited on 12-16-2012 by captkw]

BajaBruno - 12-15-2012 at 10:45 PM

My experience has been similar to Sheri's. The downtown bars lasted later than I did, and I was trying!

PCbaja - 12-16-2012 at 11:33 AM

ATM in Mulege.