BajaGeoff - 12-26-2012 at 12:24 PM
We decided to make it a Baja Christmas this year and stayed at our friend Kathleen's house in La Mision called La Casa de Gracia. The surf forecast looked favorable for the whole weekend and it didn't disappoint!
Sunday morning it was cold and howling offshore and the surf looked really fun. Since nobody was out, it was really hard to tell how big it was. I put
on my 4/3 with my squid lid to keep my head warm and went for it. I made it to the outside without getting clobbered by a set, which made me happy.
The first set rolled through and it was easily 10 feet on the face. With the wind whipping as hard as it was, it was really difficult to get into the
waves on my 6'8". I caught a few but ultimately spent most of my time battling the current and trying to stay in position.
Monday morning was a completely different story. The swell had dropped a bit, but the sets were still a couple feet overhead. A good sandbar had
formed in front of the house that had rights chugging down the beach for 100 yards. I surfed by myself for almost three hours and came back to the
beach exhausted but very happy. That was some of the best surf I have had in months!
Christmas morning it had dropped a bit more, but it was still overhead and fun. Unfortunately, at the end of my fourth wave I got bounced by the
whitewash and as I fell, my board hit my lower leg, which snapped my fin right out of the box. No damage to the board, but the fin sank straight to
the bottom.
All things considered, it was a great trip and some really fun Baja surf.
¡Viva Baja!
bajaandy - 12-26-2012 at 12:28 PM
Score! Congrats on the fun surf and no crowds. Bummer about loosing a fin. Musta been a sign.