BajaNomad

Kayaking Punta Final to LA Bay

Graham - 11-4-2013 at 09:40 PM

Having a crack at kayaking the coast between Punta Final and LA Bay.

Thirty years ago (1983) I walked down the coast from Punta Final to LA Bay as part of my goal to walk around the coast of Baja… (at least everywhere south of Ensenada and San Felipe.) It was incredibly beautiful but also somewhat challenging for a redheaded couch potato fresh over from England. Story told in my 1988 book – Into a Desert Place.

I’ve always wanted to re-visit the area… been 30 years… and I hope to do so in the next week or so, on my sit-on-top kayak.

Knowing the wind and the currents, I won’t be in any hurry and have no intention of ever being more than 100 yards from shore.

Have great memories of the hospitality received at the little shark fishing community at Calamajue.

Looking forward to a very slow drift/paddle from north to south, with lots of wind enforced breaks and hikes inland. When I walked it, I often wished I had something that would float to get me and my pack around all the rugged headlands and sheer cliffs.

Does anyone know if I’m likely to find anyone/any water there on the beach at Calamajue today? Anyone planning on being in the area at that time? Can I drive out to the end of the road at Punta Final and launch from there? Is there a secure place to leave a vehicle? Appreciate any advice.
Thanks.


Youtube of my kayaking Guardian Angel Island in March.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wEo49gtoXiU

willardguy - 11-4-2013 at 10:28 PM

last couple trips out (calamajue) not a soul around for miles. pila still bone dry, the chapel is untouched, everything else is in shambles. putting in at punta final should be no problem.

Barry A. - 11-4-2013 at 11:01 PM

Boy, Graham, that is a long paddle, as you know. Can you carry enough supplies on a sit-on-top???

I don't know-----------------------?

Barry

Graham - 11-5-2013 at 12:26 AM

Yes, it's going to be a pretty long paddle and I'll need a bit of luck with the wind. I have a large Cobra Tandem kayak, rated to carry 600lbs. Way more than than the 60-70lbs I carried when I walked it!

Food no problem - I expect to eat a lot of fish and shellfish and seaweed and carry enough basic supplies for a month. Water will be the main concern. If I carry 15-20 gallons... one re-supply should be enough to avoid having to fall back on using stills. And I'm sure I'll find space for a little beer.

Amazing to think how Calamajue has changed. It was quite a "village" with a school and a teacher when I stayed there a week in May 1983. Many a day when the pangas returned I helped clean the catch. Thanks for the info.





redhilltown - 11-5-2013 at 01:02 AM

Wow...hard to imagine Calamajue as "bustling" but you have the proof! One of my most vivid memories of Baja is when we were there a couple of years ago and launched our tin boat with the help of two-count em two-locals that were there...we rounded the southern most point and looked south and it was an awesome sight...so vast and rocky. The race will be going thru there soon and maybe some of those guys on here will have an update????

Skipjack Joe - 11-5-2013 at 01:38 AM

Gary,

Perhaps the best place to launch your kayak at Pt Final is at 'Snoopy's'. As you face the Cortez there is a ramp on the right side of Snoopy that is of little use. But there is a protected area next to it that is virtually dead calm no matter how rough the sea may be. There is usually a panga anchored there that rests on the sand during low tide and floats at high tide. That spot can be driven to with a 4WD and your kayak could be safely launched.

That area now requires a fee from the rancher. I would think that you could arrange to have your vehicle parked next to his house and have it watched over. There are also several homes at Pt Final and someone may agree to have your vehicle stay on their property. Those homes are within a short walking distance of Snoopys. The third option is to leave your truck at Snoopys which is not as crazy as it sounds because the area is gated requiring a fee to be paid to drive through. One bit of advice on the last option: park up as high up off that beach on to those rocks as your 4WD will take you. The spring high tide (in winter) goes up surprisingly high.

Good luck.

Oh yes, one other thing. There is a well in Calamajue but it's not right on the coast and the water is not the best. The shark fishermen told me about it and offered water. I don't know it's exact location (or even approximate).

One good thing about your trip: you'll have the wind to your back the whole way which should make it drier, safer, and easier to paddle.

Desert Rat - 11-5-2013 at 01:48 AM

So, you are at it again! Your kayak trip should provide you with quite an adventure. I wish you the best. Be careful out there. Look up, look down and look all around! Looking forward to reading your trip report.

mcfez - 11-5-2013 at 07:10 AM

Still waiting for that next book to come out :-)


Contact here for stow of your vehicle. PF is full of folks this time of the year.
http://puntafinal.com/

Also......can you "tow" water behind you? Something like a small inner tube would have very little resistance.........



[Edited on 11-5-2013 by mcfez]

nandopedal - 11-5-2013 at 11:20 AM

Best of luck Graham!

David K - 11-5-2013 at 11:37 AM

Naturally, I am happy to post your SPOT location maps and any emergency signal... being this is a pretty remote coast with only 4 roads* to it between Punta Final and the coast near La Gringa... rumored to be used by drug traffickers... we wish you success!

*Puerto Calamajue, near Punta Bluff, near Punta Candelero, Bahia Guadalupe.

David K - 11-5-2013 at 11:50 AM

Quote:
Originally posted by Skipjack Joe


Oh yes, one other thing. There is a well in Calamajue but it's not right on the coast and the water is not the best. The shark fishermen told me about it and offered water. I don't know it's exact location (or even approximate).


Well location:

Graham - 11-5-2013 at 12:41 PM

Thanks for all the great suggestions and advice.... and the good wishes. Yes, my best friend in all this will be my Spot device and location/status signals. That will be a big comfort knowing you'll be receiving them David and posting my whereabouts.

There will be times when I'm going to feel awfully small on my kayak looking up and down that rugged coast knowing it may be weeks before I emerge at the other end.

sancho - 11-5-2013 at 03:25 PM

Here's a vid posted a while back, kayak paddle from
San Felipe to Mulege. makes you feel like your there

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gQSFy8fjbE0

AndyP - 11-5-2013 at 07:15 PM

Sounds like a really fun trip! If you don't have your water storage figured out yet the 10 liter MSR Dromedary bags are probably the way to go- very tough and conform well to the kayak. Make some solid tie-down points along the center of the the kayak and they'll make good ballast and keep the boat very stable.

Also the Pacific Action style sails are pretty cool downwind sails that supposedly work really well for sit-on-top's, and you can make them yourself for cheap. Covering the miles under sail feels pretty luxurious out there, but does add another element of risk. I'm excited to see the trip report, I've paddled from Mulege to La Paz and want badly to do the section you're headed for. Few things are better than paddling in Baja!

Graham - 11-6-2013 at 09:50 AM

Nice video sancho... thanks.

And thanks for the sail and water storage suggestions Andy. I hadn't planned on doing anything except paddling and usually only on the calmest days but I've taken note of the design and maybe at some point I'll see if I can rig up a sail from what I'm carrying or what I can find along the way.

If all goes well I want to explore the shore slowly and have lots of time to land and take pictures and try to recall the fun and feelings I had tackling all the problems when I walked it.

One advantage to walking - when I woke every day I knew I'd be packing and leaving.... With the kayak and wind and tide I may not be able to leave for days.

On the other hand, there probably won't be any long climbs inland following coyote trails or need to wade up to my chest in the sea carrying my backpack over my head.

My Cobra Tandem kayak may be - like me - old, fat and slow but it's very stable and able to hold a lot of beer...





room inside.




room on the deck to stack stuff.







On my last trips I've carried water in bleach bottles and 2-litre soda bottles... and spread the risk and the load.


Hardest part of the trip will be the beginning when I'm fully loaded and needing to get the kayak up and down the sometimes rocky "beach." An extra challenge when alone.

bajadock - 11-6-2013 at 10:22 AM

Looks like a challenge, especially during unfriendly wind conditions. Any guess as to how many days the trip will take?

Martyman - 11-6-2013 at 12:30 PM

Dump the beer-switch to tequila. Takes up less room!
Sounds like a great trip...I'm jealous.

Barry A. - 11-6-2013 at 12:53 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by Martyman
Dump the beer-switch to tequila. Takes up less room!
Sounds like a great trip...I'm jealous.


When space and weight are really tight, I always switched to BACARDI 151 proof, but you have to be REALLY careful of that stuff.

Yes, I too am "jealous"-------that is a "lost coast" for sure, ripe for exploration and spending time along, and just dreaming!!!

Barry

David K - 11-6-2013 at 04:36 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by sancho
Here's a vid posted a while back, kayak paddle from
San Felipe to Mulege. makes you feel like your there

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gQSFy8fjbE0


Cool to see the video begin on Shell Island at sunrise... at the structure (that used to be there) just south of our camping spot!

Udo - 11-6-2013 at 04:56 PM

Little bit of kayaking advice, Graham...from a kayaker:

I would buy one of those short sails you can add on to the yaks. You entire trip will be downwind and should take a lot of the stress from your paddling. As you know...the wind generally comes from the northeast in that area of the SOC.

Barry A. - 11-6-2013 at 06:10 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by Udo
Little bit of kayaking advice, Graham...from a kayaker:

I would buy one of those short sails you can add on to the yaks. You entire trip will be downwind and should take a lot of the stress from your paddling. As you know...the wind generally comes from the northeast in that area of the SOC.


Excellent idea, Udo. 3 friends of mine used sails on their kayaks this time of the year in their cruize from the Colorado River Delta to Mulege several years ago, and they were really happy with their sails, as I recall and were able to use them a LOT.

Barry

MikeYounghusband - 11-6-2013 at 06:53 PM

Good luck Graham and have fun. Let me know if I can help

Graham - 11-7-2013 at 10:42 AM

Definitely might have to do without the beer, at least most of it, and go with a little of the strong stuff... can also serve as mouthwash, antiseptic, and fire starter. On my last trip to Guardian Angel Island I took a bottle of pure cane alcohol... found many uses for it, but I confess I haven't been the same since.


Thanks Udo and Barry for further suggesting the kayak sail… I agree they are a great idea … and I’d be very tempted if my goal was to get from A to B as quickly and effortlessly as possible. My intention on this stretch is a little different… to take my time, maybe three or four weeks, get lots of exercise and travel so close in under the cliffs that I’m not sure I’d be using the sail enough to justify the cost. Though if I get injured and can’t paddle then I’ll have a bash at improvising something…. maybe with duct tape, a couple of agave stalks and an old t-shirt. It was good to look at the design of those sail rigs.

I managed to rig up a nice shade structure from agave stalks on the island...



And if I’m unlucky with the winds or simply enjoying the good life on a nice little sheltered beach I may even end up not far from Punta Final or Calamajue, fishing and hiking around, and waiting for a calm day or two to work my way back. My SPOT will show where I am… visitors always welcome. And I wouldn’t say no to a few gallons of water!

And thanks Mike for the good wishes. Your amazing walk from Tecate to Cabo with Don-kay and Solo will be an inspiration.

Graham - 11-9-2013 at 03:55 PM

I'll be carrying a Katadyn reverse osmosis hand pump desalinator for making drinking water from the sea. In fact it's the same one carried by Bryan and Justin of Nat Geo and "whatiswest" fame on their 1000 mile walk/SUP journey.

They never used it but it went the whole length of Baja.... quite a pedigree.

I imagine I'll be using it a lot, but I'll also carry as much water as I can for safety, and because it's not always practical or convenient to spend time pumping drinking water from the sea.

A picture of me testing it out this morning.




And this is the Nomad discussion of Bryan and Justin's trip.

http://forums.bajanomad.com/viewthread.php?tid=65399#pid8214...

Graham - 11-16-2013 at 12:07 AM

Update: Trip will have to be postponed for a while.

I was packed and ready, just about to leave, a friend was going to drop me off at Punta Final, when I heard my older brother was having health problems in England. Under the circumstances I didn't want to be out of touch for weeks without a speedy way of heading home.

I'll return to do this stretch of coast when I can.

Thanks for all the great advice and suggestions.

David K - 11-16-2013 at 12:54 AM

Baja will be there when you get back! Best wishes for your brother's health and recovery!!

Udo - 11-17-2013 at 10:52 AM

Prayers and best wishes to your brother, Graham!

Family first, travel can wait

Whale-ista - 11-17-2013 at 11:10 AM

Wishing your brother improved health, and safe travels for you to England and beyond.

BornFisher - 11-17-2013 at 11:30 AM

Graham-- Hope your brother will be O.K. soon.
What a great adventure. With the spot, you just may have a few visitors, someone may even show up with some Budweisers!!

Graham - 11-17-2013 at 12:03 PM

Appreciate all the good wishes.

My flight is booked but I'm heading to Baja to at least get in a little hiking and sunshine to prepare for a winter in England.

treuboff - 11-17-2013 at 07:41 PM

Do not go alone! Buddy system is the way. People who go solo are in the news every day.

bacquito - 11-17-2013 at 08:49 PM

Good luck to you and your family. Stay healthy.

Desert Rat - 11-18-2013 at 12:11 AM

I'm hoping that all goes well with your brother. I'm sure that your visit with him will lift his spirit. Take care.

David K - 11-18-2013 at 11:02 AM

Quote:
Originally posted by treuboff
Do not go alone! Buddy system is the way. People who go solo are in the news every day.


Guess you don't know Graham... His whole Baja life has been going it alone... Walking around the perimeter of Baja (3,000 miles)... Walking from Tecate to Loreto (1,000 miles) along some of the mission road El Camino Real... Summer in the high sierra of Baja... Months on a waterless desert island... Here are the books he lived to write:

http://grahammackintosh.com







bufeo - 11-18-2013 at 11:14 AM

Quote:
Originally posted by sancho
Here's a vid posted a while back, kayak paddle from
San Felipe to Mulege. makes you feel like your there

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gQSFy8fjbE0


Sorry to veer away from the OP's thread, but Sancho were you part of that group of kayakers that stalled a bit off Pta Bufeo and put to shore for a rest from the wind? We "entertained" some mariners for a brief lunch and shelter from the wind for a few hours.

Allen R