BajaNomad

The two most difficult phases of my travels to Baja...

Whale-ista - 1-16-2014 at 09:39 PM

1) Getting out of town

2) Returning home

No matter how much I envision myself sipping wine over the ocean at San Miguel or kissing whales in a lagoon in BCS, I never seem to be able to put together enough time/travel companions/motivation/blah blah blah to just hit the road and get outta town. I''m always thinking of items I might need, more camping gear, the perfect... whatever gizmo.

Then it finally hits me: it will never be "the perfect time." Just pack up the truck and go!

So today I did, braving early rush hour traffic (how do people survive that on a daily basis?) crossing at Tecate to avoid the urban crush/coastal collapse, and arriving at San Miguel after watching a lovely moonrise over the the hills thru "la ruta vino."

(Has anyone else noticed all the highway signs along MX-3 that have been altered to say "puta de vino"? Took me two signs to get the joke...)

I've driven that road since the early 90s, and compared to those early days, it is GREAT! The only obstacles were a few slow trucks between Tecate and Las MInas (normal) and a herd of goats on the highway- but those were in the US, near the Tecate turn-off! What the...

Now listening to music at Boules near my ramshakle casita, drinking a glass (or 2) of a local cab blend, chatting with neighbors and enjoying a risotto with huitlacoche.

(I'd post a photo, but the image doesn't do the flavor justice.)

I'm using the wi-fi at the restaurant, and already making use of the T-mobile free international roaming to send texts to friends to let then know I've arrived.

Tomorrow... we'll see where I wind up next...

DJL - 1-16-2014 at 09:47 PM

Life ROCKS !!!!!

D.~;)

Ateo - 1-16-2014 at 09:48 PM

Ohhhhh. You are in Baja heaven right now. Enjoy. You going to see whales?

elgatoloco - 1-16-2014 at 10:37 PM

:yes:

BajaParrothead - 1-16-2014 at 10:51 PM

Whale-ista I'm in complete Baja envy right now. Drive safe and enjoy the trip!!

shari - 1-17-2014 at 08:09 AM

all I can add is Wooooooo Hooooo! Have a wonderful adventure!

Day 2: Ensenada- Ojo de Liebre/ would Gonzaga return be better?

Whale-ista - 1-18-2014 at 04:11 PM

Made it to  Ojo de Liebre lagoon for sunset, awoke to the sound of whales exhaling. That was almost enough to relax me, but need another day of whales. Went out early with a guide, and a small group of newbies. We had a brief encounter with
mom/calf, LOTS of spy hopping, even some leaps in the distance and a few novios getting busy (we left them alone).

One of the women was afraid of the whales, and the guides were not much help. They didn't have any naturalist training, or at least offered no interpretation. I'm thinking of going to San Ignacio tonight, to go out with trained guides. That makes a big difference.

As for the drive: Left San Miguel 7:30 am, rush hour traffic thru town was no fun, and the road work between Sto Thomas/San Quintin is a pain. Sigh...made it to El Rosario in 4 hours, filled the tank and continued south. Usual military stops. I was waved thru two, the final one near Jesus Maria had a chatty guy who wanted to know why I was travelling alone, etc. Did a brief look in back, but nothing more.

Any idea if driving east from Laguna Chapala, then taking 3 to Ensenada is a better choice for the return, given all the traffic/road work in the San Quintin-Maneadero area right now?

I prepaid for a night at Cactus, (unfort they didn't have a room in the back that allows dogs. So... may be noisy...) but if I take the eastern way to Gonzaga I wouldn't use it anyway. I'd be willing to lost my $300 pesos if the drive is better.

Any recommendations on driving hwy 3 to Gonzaga/Ensenada vs Hwy 1 ? I think there's a dirt stretch from the Chapala turn off, but will I still be ahead of all the construction delays?

I'll post this question on another spot also, separate from the trip info.

Thanks for any feedback on the drive back.

chuckie - 1-18-2014 at 04:14 PM

Shari..Don be messin with my wooooo hoooooo!

Skipjack Joe - 1-18-2014 at 05:53 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by Whale-ista
Made it to  Ojo de Liebre lagoon for sunset, awoke to the sound of whales exhaling.



You could have stayed home for that.

No. The gravel road from chapala is not faster than the road diversions.

BajaBlanca - 1-18-2014 at 06:09 PM

Just taking off is the best way to do it! Good for you!

Minor wheel damage delays return

Whale-ista - 1-20-2014 at 02:54 PM

Using wifi at the Oasis yurts bed/breakfast to post a quick update.

After arriving at Kuyima in San Ignacio lagoon, it appeared a rock (?) or something damaged the hub cover on one of my wheels. Given the condition of the dirt roads, surprised this hadn't happened earlier. Since it looked as if grease/oil was leaking ƒrom the bearing, I stopped in San Ignacio on the way north and had a llantera inspect the problem. Good news: superficial, but it slowed my return.

So, I'll drive to Ojo de Liebre for another night, then back to San Diego tuesday. I Had spotty TelCel coverage at San Ignacio lagoon to alert people that I'm running behind schedule via text message.Imagine: actual phone communication from the lagoon! How times change...

Talked with a couple who had driven the Chapala/Gonzaga road, and they confirmed it is not a good choice. Also met two travelers from France at the yurts, about to drive to Kuyima. I assured them it was worth the drive, and to be prepared for rough roads.

As for hearing whales breathing all night.... not something I can do at home!

Time to hit the road north after topping tank in San Ignacio. And if possible, I will not buy gas in GN if I can avoid it... too many times I've been shortchanged there! What is it about that place...?

Onward!

Quiet, very quiet, night in Ojo de Liebre...lobster at El Rosario

Whale-ista - 1-21-2014 at 03:33 PM

Spent Monday night in Ojo de Liebre. Parked at far end of road, away from interpretive center, and was awakened by amazing bird calls in the canal/estuary.

Arrived in time for sunset, plus a hot shower, then set up camp and enjoyed a glass of wine and some goat cheese quesadilla. Slept soundly, awoke at dawn for a bird walk/photos, then departed around 9 am.

Manuel (the guard at the salt works gate) and I are now on a first-name basis- and he likes the poodle. I promised we would return soon.

No time for whales today- need to get back to San Diego for work mid-Wednesday.

Filled tank at 28th parallel, didn't stop again until El Rosario. About 215 miles from lagoon to lobster lunch.

Will fill tank one last time at Cactus. The hotel staff kindly refunded my pre-paid hotel room- I saw that they were able to find a guest for #9 room in front (noisy!), since I had called from San Ignacio to let them know I was delayed. I'll try again another time, hopefully a back room. But travel w/poodle limits my options somewhat.

Now awaiting a lobster a la plancha to splurge on my final lunch of the trip. I can never finish these- I'll make a burrito to go for the drive north, and depending on how things go between here and Ensenada, may spend the night at the San Miguel casita before final push thru Tecate...and that also gives me a chance to finish that bottle of red wine before crossing.

Andale!

PS: the hotel room refund was the exact same amount as the full lobster meal. Coincidence? I don't think so...

[Edited on 1-21-2014 by Whale-ista]

bajaguy - 1-21-2014 at 03:47 PM

Next time you decide to go whale watching, sign up with our own Baja Nomad, Shari. She runs guided tours from Ojo de Liebre.....you will not be dissapointed, and Shari is a hoot!!!

We hare headed down in March for our third trip with Shari....this time bringing our G-kids
Quote:
Originally posted by Whale-ista

One of the women was afraid of the whales, and the guides were not much help. They didn't have any naturalist training, or at least offered no interpretation. I'm thinking of going to San Ignacio tonight, to go out with trained guides. That makes a big difference.


[Edited on 1-21-2014 by bajaguy]

shari - 1-21-2014 at 09:04 PM

Oh dang...we had room for you on our trip today cause Motoged chickened out. It was a spectacular day...flat....I mean mirror flat calm this morning. Most mom's were taking advantage of the calm and sleeping so we saw lots of calves rolling over their mother's noses and backs which is always cool.

We had 3 cow/calf pairs come right to the panga...mom was pushing her baby up to us...schooling it about humans...which thrilled everyone!

We saw a mating trio, lots of spyhops...this last one was right beside the panga...



I look forward to our next outing on Jan. 29th...still room if anyone wants to tag along on a guided trip.

Whaleista...we really need to coordinate better next time! I was watching for you.

Bird/whale trip, Jan 16-21

Whale-ista - 1-22-2014 at 01:51 AM

final tallies

Border crossed: 1(US/MX)
Lagoons visited: 2 (San Ignacio/Ojo de Liebre, aka Scammons)
Oasis crossed: 1 (2 times)
Miles travelled: 1200
Wheel possibly damaged by flying rock(?): 1
Cost to inspect: 50 pesos
Whales seen: dozens
Birds heard/seen: thousands
Poodles exhausted: 1
Roads diverted/collapsed/under repair/being built: many
Lobster burritos consumed: 2 (+1 to go)
Negra modelos swallowed: 3 (no fridge this trip)
hours on road spent dodging cows, goats, horses, mules, coyotes, big rig trucks, earth movers, potholes: don't ask...

I plan to go again this spring, possibly February, also end of March since it was early and the whales were not as active yet. Let me know if you want to caravan.

shari - 1-22-2014 at 08:00 AM

Hope to cross paths with you on your next trip down...we will be at the Whale Magic camp in Ojo de Liebre full time then...Palapa #1!

Whale-ista - 1-22-2014 at 08:26 AM

Shari- sorry we missed each other. I would love to join you in February. Maybe weekend of 14-17?

Were you next to the interpretive center and launch area? I was camped way past the last palapa, #13?i spent Monday night along the estuary/canal inlet, the better to bird watch, but the isolation made me a bit nervous. (I kept my nightlight on)

I looked for you as I left around 9 am but wasn't sure if you were going out from there, or another area in the lagoon.

How does February look?

alacran - 1-23-2014 at 10:35 PM

It would help if some of the whale watching places (Shari et al) would provide some service further South, like Sta. Rosalia, Mulege, Loreto, lot´s of tourists there and plenty of local people.
Get with it.

shari - 1-24-2014 at 07:43 AM

whalista...oh darn...we were out on the boat when you came to the Interpretive Center. We will be in the first palapa beside the Center starting Feb.9th full time as we have trips every day...soooo great...we will see you round the campfire in mid February at the lagoon..bring your instrument and dancing flip flops!

Alacran...Ojo de Liebre is my second home and the personnel there are my extended family which is why I concentrate my whale excursions there. This is part of what makes my trips magical.

One could not do whale tours in Sta.rosalia or Mulege as whale sightings are not reliable or predictable. Loreto has many operators who live there doing whale watching...but thanks for suggesting I get with it.

Sticking with what I know and do well in my own barrio seems to work for me.