BajaNomad

Kayak trip around baja

LukeJobbins - 3-11-2014 at 03:00 PM

I am new to this forum but a somewhat experienced baja traveller. I am starting to plan a kayak trip around baja starting in the gulf and going down around and ending in SD. I plan on starting the trip in about 3 years. I am planning on going solo and super light-wieght. I am going to have a desalinization kit, a compact 1-person tent and small camping supplies and plan on mostly eating fish I catch(bringing 2 rods with fishing supplies and some money to stop in places and reload on lost lures/line etc). I am definitely doing a lot of planning and want to just cruise slowly and spend about 8-10months. I would like to bring a surfboard or 2 if I can figure out a way to pack it on a kayak. If anyone has any suggestions or resources about my travel or anyone wants to support me on the trip with a place to stay or supplies staged on their property or whatever please let me know. The more I know from you guys before I go the more enjoyable the trip will be.

Pompano - 3-11-2014 at 03:12 PM

Here's some kayaking info on doing the Sea of Cortez via my Coyote Bay neighbors of many years...NOLS. (National Outdoor Leadership School.) Since the 70's, I would say they are the experts on that kind of a trip. Happy planning...

http://www.nols.edu/courses/baja-sea-kayaking/

plus another expert in the field. An old amiga, Trudi.

http://www.tourbaja.com/


[Edited on 3-11-2014 by Pompano]

dtbushpilot - 3-11-2014 at 03:12 PM

Welcome to Nomads Luke, good luck on your venture. We live in Buena Vista BCS and would be happy to let you stash some stuff here.

I've always understood that boating south on the pacific side is much preferable to boating north, not sure about a kayak. Keep us posted on your plan......dt

Bob53 - 3-11-2014 at 03:27 PM

As far as your surfboard goes, couldn't you just tow it? If you are starting your journey on the gulf side, how far up the coast will you be beginning your trip? You also might want to plan your gulf side stretch avoiding the windy season.

mtgoat666 - 3-11-2014 at 03:27 PM

you should reach out to abraham levy. he is a mexican that kayaked solo along entire baja coast (i think he ended up kayaking the entire coast of mexico, pacific, SOC and caribean). he camped with us one night on the central coast, and he seemed to be well-equipped, but basically winging it, meeting people along the way, scrounging a meal here and there, etc.
with all the campers and fish camps, you are rarely more than a days paddle from running across someone.

i dont think you need to pack a surf board. as you pass by the line up and tell your story about kayaking the whole coast line, i am sure you will be able to borrow a board here and there.

sancho - 3-11-2014 at 03:44 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by LukeJobbins
I am starting to plan a kayak trip around baja starting in the gulf and going down around and ending in SD






The first part, going so. on the Cortez to the Cape sounds
good, most/all kayak trips of distance in the Cortez go that direction. Not sure about turning the corner and coming
back no. along the Pacific side of Baja, uphill, so to speak,
I would think you would be fighting a headwind,
watermovement, waves

paranewbi - 3-11-2014 at 04:19 PM

Camping at Conception Bay the gentleman next to me had a Hobbie outrigger with the sail set up...after a few margaritas with my wife I watched him one afternoon tacking back and forth in the wind to eventually get to our shore and I helped pull him up.
Back here in San Diego I visited the Hobbie kayak center on Mission Bay, across from Sea World and decided I could never afford that set up. Stuck to our dually for fishing with my wife.
Always fantasized about hooking up my own outrigger with a surfboard or SUP board for the outrigger pontoon?
Maybe a solution for you?
Cut me a check if you make millions off it.

Udo - 3-11-2014 at 04:47 PM

I am an expert kayaker in Baja, Luke.

IMHO, I would start in Mission Bay, San Diego, and end up in the gulf...your choice of where.
The currents and tides are treacherous in the Pacific and kayaking you would spend more energy than you will get in return.
It is easier to do the harder side first, and when you have some strength left, finish on the SOC. Time your kayaking time to go with the incoming flood tide. The ebb tide is not worth battling. You would lose more than you will have gained.
I sailed a Hobie 16 down to Pescadero (on the Pacific side) many years ago when I was younger, and still would do it again.
I now own a Hobie Tandem Island, and as such, the trip is still doable, either way, in the TI, not a paddle kayak). I have also sailed the same 16 across to Puerto Peñasco from Fan Felipe, over a two day period. The currents and tides were nasty! They eventually took me 20 miles off course, and that was dead reckoning, before the GPS era.
I am sure I don't have to lecture you about VHF and safety gear.

805gregg - 3-11-2014 at 05:39 PM

Don't talk about it as Nike said "Just Do It"

David K - 3-11-2014 at 05:43 PM

The late Carlos Fiesta traveled solo around the peninsula and more (Long Beach Harbor around the cape, up to the Colorado River, then back to San Felipe) in a panga... Read and see his Baja Circumnavigation pics and story, starting here: http://www.bajaexpo.com/circumnavigation/adios.htm

LukeJobbins - 3-11-2014 at 10:04 PM

thanks for the help guys keep it coming if you know of more stories or resources or ideas

freediverbrian - 3-11-2014 at 10:11 PM

The prevailing currents and wind go south on the pacific side . Don't go "up hill" start south on the pac side

AndyP - 3-12-2014 at 12:03 AM

Definitely don't try to tow a surfboard or anything like that... maybe an inflatable board would be feasible but a normal surfboard won't fit on or in any kind of seaworthy kayak.

Work hard on your roll and paddle skills if you're not a true expert already. Whitewater paddling would develop skills you're going to need for the west coast.

Skipjack Joe - 3-12-2014 at 12:11 AM

Quote:
Originally posted by 805gregg
Don't talk about it as Nike said "Just Do It"



And Al Davis, who said "Just win, baby".

David K - 3-12-2014 at 12:11 AM

Quote:
Originally posted by freediverbrian
The prevailing currents and wind go south on the pacific side . Don't go "up hill" start south on the pac side


Exactly, do as Carlos Fiesta did!

Desert Rat - 3-12-2014 at 12:45 AM

Read Ed Darack's book, "WIND, WATER, SUN". He paddled 850 miles down the coast of Sea of Cortez starting just north of San Felipe. Has good maps.

Russ - 3-12-2014 at 06:55 AM

Google has a huge amount of references. Hauling a surfboard? I don't think so and you can get by with one fishing rod or a hand line, You'll wand to save all the weight and space for water and food. Desal pump probably for emergencies. You'll want something like Spot too so we know when and where to give you an assist IF you need it. I've talked to a few people that have paddled the SOS none so far that have paddled the Pacific. All have had horror moments fighting the wind and tides. You have the time to get everything tuned up. You might want to do a couple of 3 day trips in Mexico just to get the feel for the provisions you can take.
Good luck

micah202 - 3-12-2014 at 07:16 AM

Quote:
Originally posted by Russ
..............You might want to do a couple of 3 day trips in Mexico just to get the feel for the provisions you can take.
Good luck


...not t'mention some practice doing beach-landings in surf,,,,before you're in an isolated location,,,with all your eggs in the basket!

...don't get me wrong--it sounds like a lovely adventure,,,I'm actually considering a similar trip....mex-cuba,,,and up the chain!

[Edited on 3-12-2014 by micah202]

degoma - 3-12-2014 at 07:44 AM

For a vivid description of kayaking the pacific coast check this out:

Keep It Moving - Baja By Canoe , Valerie Fons, 1986, ISBN 0-89886-101-2

Why they call their boats canoe’s I don’t understand…look like kayaks to me. The trip continues around the cape and up the gulf. Good, if not harrowing, read.

They started in San Diego. I'm with Udo, start there.

[Edited on 3-12-2014 by degoma]

BooJumMan - 3-12-2014 at 07:55 AM

Sounds like a fun trip, I also agree with going south, starting from SD. Longshore currents will be traveling North to South! Timing it season wise will be crucial as well. (Example would be N. Baja in Aug-Sept, pretty slow swell and storm wise).

AndyP - 3-12-2014 at 08:07 AM

Quote:
Originally posted by degoma
For a vivid description of kayaking the pacific coast check this out:

Keep It Moving - Baja By Canoe , Valerie Fons, 1986, ISBN 0-89886-101-2

Why they call their boats canoe’s I don’t understand…look like kayaks to me. The trip continues around the cape and up the gulf. Good, if not harrowing, read.

[Edited on 3-12-2014 by degoma]


They were paddling decked canoes (which look kinda like kayaks), I think Kruger Sea Winds.

Luke, I've paddled from Mulege to La Paz, and am headed back now to kayak from BOLA to La Paz. I kept a blog with some details if it's helpful:

http://potterfs.wordpress.com/category/mexico/kayak-mulege-t...

Also you will want this book, it doesn't cover most of the pacific though:

http://www.amazon.com/Guide-To-Baja-Sea-Kayaking/dp/09645399...

David K - 3-12-2014 at 08:41 AM

Marv and Aletha Patchen also had a open canoe adventure from San Felipe south to Mulege, back in the 70's... Reading these other accounts will help you to know what to prepare for and of all possible consequences...

LukeJobbins - 3-12-2014 at 08:55 AM

Right on guys! I'm definitely going to read all these books and blogs. I'm not really opposed to going to pac side first I was just thinking of someone dropping me off around san felipe and then not having to worry about someone picking me up, just cruise into SD(home). I am planning on practicing surf passages a lot when I get the kayak I am going to use. I have done some in sit on top kayaks just for fun but I definitely dont have the experience I need yet and will be paddling and practicing a lot in the next few years.

And as for everyone saying just go for it, the reason I am waiting is school. I have school paid for right now and the second I graduate I am going off the grid for this trip. I want to bail out now but I would lose the full ride. It sucks being responsible.

monoloco - 3-12-2014 at 09:01 AM

Check this out:

http://youtu.be/XHQGUbMSPTM

mcfez - 3-12-2014 at 09:37 AM

The Sea of Cortez has taken many experienced kayak'ers out to sea. Happens a lot in fact. During one of Graham Mackintosh trips he was preparing for.....he writes about a group out of the Bay of Los Angeles that never came back.......

Please know what you are doing ...from lots of experience!

Bob53 - 3-12-2014 at 10:16 AM

Well, if you are around Bahia de los Angeles during your trip while I'm there, you are welcome to stop by for a nice hot meal and a place to crash.

gnukid - 3-12-2014 at 11:07 AM

How about one run south on SOC and truck back up and take a second run the pacific!

Alm - 3-12-2014 at 02:01 PM

Have never heard of "desalinization kit". IMO, the only thing that works is a desalinator PUR - aka Katadyn. Though you will need it less than you think (if at all), if you carry some water. One 10L Dromedary bag should suffice for 3-4 days if your food regimen is proper. Eating mostly fish that you catch - good luck with that during 5-6 days storm. At least one week supply of food is a must. Check forum Watertribe for some tips. They are doing annual marathons in Florida, but many things are common. Like carts, stoves, etc. I think right now they are busy discussing the last marathon, so maybe later when they'll calm down.

Yes, Kruger Seawind would be a good boat for a trip that long. Pacific Action sail - 1 m size - is a must on the South-bound leg. Again, Watertribe folks will tell you a lot about Sea Wind, and cheaper equivalents (one US and one Candian, forgot the names), and Pacific Action.

I hope you have some experience in packing for multiday trips, but surfboard doesn't sound realistic in a kayak in this kind of trip. Even in Kruger it would be difficult. Another problem is that surf-able beaches are a nightmare for landing and launching a heavily loaded expedition kayak. I don't know what is your idea of traveling super-light, but trust me, your kayak will be heavy. Tent, Thermarest, sleeping bag, food, clothes, kitchen, fishing gear - this is a lot. Desalinator alone weighs 7-8 pounds, model 35, and I would shoot myself if I had to pump model 06 daily, for 8 months.

On the Cortez side the wilderness is mostly between San Felipe and Loreto. The stretch from La Paz to Cabo is heavily developed, not too many places to camp under the stars.

[Edited on 3-12-2014 by Alm]

Udo - 3-13-2014 at 02:32 PM

The BOLA area HAS taken several kayakers as well as small boat owners because of the rip currents, unpredictable tides, etc.
Just keep in mind...the Sea Of Cortez does not have a tide per se, it is actually a large swell that comes up from the Pacific, and recedes after it hits the north end of the SOC.
STUDY a tide calendar for the time you will travel, and plan on kayaking through BOLA during a slack-tide time. That is a time when there is the least amount of fluctuation between high and low tides.
Quote:
Originally posted by mcfez
The Sea of Cortez has taken many experienced kayak'ers out to sea. Happens a lot in fact. During one of Graham Mackintosh trips he was preparing for.....he writes about a group out of the Bay of Los Angeles that never came back.......

Please know what you are doing ...from lots of experience!

Udo - 3-13-2014 at 02:37 PM

It's not as easy as it sounds!

When headed north from Mexico, you WILL encounter the US Coastguard, USCBP, and the USDA. Plan on spending some time in customs and being searched and investigated.
When preparing for the trip, plan on notifying the US and Mexico Coast Guards of your plans. Keep in touch by VHF.
Quote:
Originally posted by LukeJobbins
... just cruise into SD(home).

motoged - 3-13-2014 at 03:00 PM

I am glad Nomads have offered a lot of sage advice. The collective experience can highlight issues, concerns, and solutions.

When we hear of such grandiose adventures, there is often a lot of encouragement to "Go for it...", and some cautious warnings about the doubt of the project's feasibility (unfortunately categorized at times as being "a negative hater").

I love a good adventure and have had a few....kayaking Espiritu Santu for 10 days self-contained trip in 1989 introduced me to Baja...motorcycles have been my conveyance of choice since.

In 1989 I thought bicycling down Baja would be a great idea....I know better now.

Running around the cliffs on Espiritu seemed like a good idea at the time....until my sister (experienced Baja guide) pointed out the risk of injury and the complications it set up if I broke a limb. I thought she was a party-pooper at first, but have since developed much more respect for the notion of good risk management thinking.

I would like to think Nomads can voice their opinions and concerns regarding some newbie adventurers seeking advice without being shat upon for being "negative".

I wish this fellow well....and if he is still into it when he finishes college (remember how dreams change in that life-stage?), he will have had enough time to plan and realistically prepare for the undertaking. And no matter how well we plan, some chit always comes up that we hadn't anticipated that can derail things.

So, Go For It.....and be smart about it.

Buena suerte, amigo.

Alm - 3-14-2014 at 11:35 AM

Quote:
Originally posted by motoged
I would like to think Nomads can voice their opinions and concerns regarding some newbie adventurers seeking advice without being shat upon for being "negative".

Well, he is a newbie on the forum but he says "Baja traveler", whatever it means... There are travelers that won't go anywhere without their 4WD and even then they would need a hotel and restaurant on every night stop because don't know how (or not willing) to sleep in a car or in a tent, and make a simple meal on a portable stove.

I agree with what Udo said about kayaking all the way to SD. Yes, US Coast Guard will likely stop and question him. He will run into problems around Cabo - not much place to land and to camp. And he will run into similar problems North of Ensenada, with beaches not accessible either because it's a seawall rather than a beach, or because it's all developed. I haven't kayaked between Ensenada and SD, but when I look at the shoreline when passing by, I'm having a lot of doubt.

Most multiday trips, being it a group of novices with a guide and a boat carrying all their "stuff", or a lone sea dog - start at San Felipe and end in La Paz (guided groups usually do very short trips, not covering the entire stretch from SF to LP). And then there are intermittent routes along the lagoons on the Pacific side. Fewer kayakers travel on the Pacific (other than traversing the lagoons), the surf is the first reason that comes to my mind - it makes difficult to land and launch. And when they do travel Pacific, they go Southwards, not Northwards, due to prevailing winds.

[Edited on 3-14-2014 by Alm]

bajalinda - 3-16-2014 at 03:34 PM

As mtgoat666 mentioned, Abraham Levy is a Mexican guy who kayaked solo the entire Mexican coast in 2008. You can check out his website at www.abrahamlevy.com and contact him through the website (looks like he's planning to cross the Atlantic next in a specially designed rowing boat/kayak!). But back to Baja....he stayed with us here at La Aguja for 3 or 4 days resting up. He had already kayaked the Caribbean side, then flew to TJ and continued on the Pacific side paddling south to Cabo then up the Sea of Cortez. I don't think he had a SPOT locator, but did have a satellite phone and several other electronic gizmos (camera, etc.)

I'm going to try my first attempt at posting a photo here - so if it works, here is a photo of Abraham leaving La Aguja/Playas Pacificas.

abraham leaving rancho aguja.jpg - 45kB

LukeJobbins - 3-17-2014 at 09:22 AM

Lets give a little background for all the people who doubt me or think I might not be able to do this for whatever reason. I am 25 years old. I am an avid runner, completed a half triathlon with no training, did the military thing for 4 years and now am going to college to mostly learn and expand my knowledge but also to get that coveted piece of paper society wants you to have to get a job. I have been traveling to and camping in baja since I was 5 years old. I have camped on islands in BOLA for a week at a time, I have camped and surfed all over the pacific side, and I have played water polo, and have surfed for as long as I remember. I am well aware of the troubles and trials of getting through surf, I know how to swim and know about tides and currents better than most people. I have a grasp on never give up and do whatever it takes for as long as it takes to complete the task. I hope this doesn't come out like I am stuck up or c-cky because I am not, I am just confident in my ability knowledge-wise and physically-wise to handle anything life has to throw at me.

I used to live in the SD area and now reside in central california. I have travelled all over the world, and I have come to love nature and the outdoors and still love surfing so I can't go too far from the ocean, but I hate the crowded work 9-5 commute to work area of society that most people have bought into in the US. I know I face the reality of most likely having to conform to this idea at some point to support myself and others in the expensive overcrowded california, but while I am young and after college before I accept those responsibilities I plan on living out my dream of going into the wild of baja on a long trip to explore and get lost in nature and baja and away from society for a while.

With that being said, I am very grateful to everyone who has expressed concern for my safety and trip and I thank everyone that has given their advice and suggestions wether first-hand or recommended reading. Please keep it coming.
-Luke

Russ - 3-17-2014 at 09:37 AM

Get outta the traffic... pack up and head south soon. You have everything you need. Attitude and ability. Just a thought --- :light:

El Jefe - 3-17-2014 at 09:56 AM

Quote:
[qu
On the Cortez side the wilderness is mostly between San Felipe and Loreto. The stretch from La Paz to Cabo is heavily developed, not too many places to camp under the stars.


I beg to differ on the above. Plenty, plenty places to camp along the east cape all the way south to San Jose del Cabo. Piece of cake.

The west side will be the most interesting for a surfer. And for crying out loud, DO take your board. So many points to pull in behind and get some nice rides. If it were me, I'd figure out a good way to lash the shortest board I could ride to the deck. Small boards weigh very little. Everything else would go inside since when you do turn over you want it all in there intact. Think worst case scenario like getting rolled on the way into the beach. How much stuff will you loose? Bulkheads might be nice for storage, and of course dry bags etc.

You can handle yourself in the surf, but the boat's going to weigh a ton with some water in it. I'd practice some sketchy landings fully loaded somewhere in San Diego before heading to parts unknown.

Keep researching. It will keep you sane as you finish your studies. Keep the dream alive. Don't get some gal knocked up. Keep your options open. Do it.

SlyOnce - 3-18-2014 at 09:29 AM

I think a really good idea would be to get someone to follow you. Perhaps in a sailboat, or on land. Or at least line up some nomads with houses/camps along the way where you can rest up and get supplies, repairs.

I am a sailor. Coming back up the pacific side in a sailboat is a serious undertaking. You have to do it at the correct time of year, and you have to plan being wind and weather bound in places like Bahia Magdelena, Abre Ojos, Turtle Bay, Cedros Island sometimes for days or even weeks.

I have a kayak but for going ashore. I am curious how far you can paddle per day against a 15 to 20 knot wind, 5 or 6 foot swell, and contrary 1.5 to 2 knot current. And that is a good day on the Pacific side for going North.

I have rounded Punto Falso and sailed North and did so by hugging the beach and tacking out, then in, and it took 24 hours to make 40 miles north on a good day. Sailors call it the "bust out zone".

[Edited on 3-18-2014 by SlyOnce]

Alm - 3-18-2014 at 10:38 AM

Luke, it wasn't any safety concerns. It's more a logistics, planning, preparing, and the "return" on your time and efforts in terms of fun. Paddling some stretches makes very little sense to me, there is no wilderness and land-able places are few. But if the purpose is to make a complete loop, by all means try it. Just be prepared. What sailor said about paddling from Cabo to North, agrees with my experience.

As to the desalinating, again I have to say that Katadyn model 35 is THE only thing that works. It takes one hour a day to make a daily supply of water though, one hour of boring non-stop pumping. It's probably easier to carry 2*10L Drom bags.

gringorio - 3-18-2014 at 01:30 PM

Hey Luke,

I'm another that says go for it! Go the direction that most intrigues you... I'll echo the safety: Be prepared before you leave, with beach launches and landings, take a personal EPIRB and/or Spot, have hand-held flares in your life vest, a whistle too, buy a waterproof VHF and keep it tethered to you when on the water... You can U2U for more details.

The other thing about the Pacific side, and you may know this, is that there are long stretches of steep beachs which can make it really difficult to land or launch when the waves are up.

In general, make good choices about when to paddle and when to get off the water. Poor decisions can lead to really bad outcomes.


:tumble:

El Jefe - 3-18-2014 at 02:28 PM

Have to admit, I also would not recommend kayaking north on the Pacific. I too have sailed a small boat from Cabo to San Diego. Eleven days of motoring into the wind, swell and current. No fun at all. I and the other crew member plotted murdering the captain in his sleep, throwing him overboard and driving the boat onto the beach. Then taking a bus home. "Gosh, he must have fallen overboard on his watch. We woke up and we were on the sand!"

Just go down one side, get a ride back up and go down the other side. And you can leave your surfboard home on the journey down the Cortez.

Alm - 3-18-2014 at 05:01 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by El JefeJust go down one side, get a ride back up and go down the other side. And you can leave your surfboard home on the journey down the Cortez.

Yep. And going South on the Pacific, start from Rosarito, or even from some place further South. On this stretch, i.e. San Diego to P. Banda, you would likely have set your tiny tent on a concrete pad between huge gringo motorhomes in some RV park because this would be the only place safe and accessible.