BajaNomad - outboard question

outboard question

woody with a view - 4-13-2014 at 12:02 PM

25hp mariner:

i run it every week to keep the parts moving during the winter. i just had the carb cleaned and a new fuel line/bulb since the original was GREEN on the inside from the ethanol. i re-used the clip that attaches the fuel line to the fuel intake on the motor. when i pump the bulb gas is squirting from that clip/motor connection and the motor runs for a minute or two then dies like the fuel has ran out. if i force the clip just right and hold it while pumping the bulb it seems like the lines/bowl fill again and it runs for a few minutes until fuel starved again. i can see the filter on the motor start full and run down to about 1/2 when the motor starves.

is that squirting fuel at the connection right? seems like there isn't a good seal. it isn't overflowing at the bowl.

would a clip go bad and loose its seal at the ball bearing after 25 years or are they normally solid for life?

Mucho Garcias!

[Edited on 4-13-2014 by woody with a view]

Pacifico - 4-13-2014 at 12:10 PM

You might need a new connector for the line to the outboard. It should not be leaking at all. I think there is a small o-ring inside the connection on some of them...check that. If it is sucking air, then you could be losing your suction to draw up fuel and that could be the problem. Replace the connection with a new one.

Is your vent open on your fuel tank or your fuel line kinked? Sounds simple, but it happens....

willardguy - 4-13-2014 at 12:22 PM

seems like i've fought those things my whole life

we run a hose from the bulb directly to the filter now, one less thing to go wrong!

dtbushpilot - 4-13-2014 at 12:41 PM

Sounds like it is sucking air at the connection. I would replace it before I looked any further.

woody with a view - 4-13-2014 at 12:47 PM

Thanks for the suggestions! funny thing is my vent stays open because the plastic tank grows like a bloated football if i leave it closed. i guess i'll start closing it when the motor runs. also, the new hose is ethanol proof (per writing on the jacket) but seems softer than the old line and does bend a couple of places that looks wrong. good ideas guys!!!!

Pacifico - 4-13-2014 at 01:08 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by woody with a view
Thanks for the suggestions! funny thing is my vent stays open because the plastic tank grows like a bloated football if i leave it closed. i guess i'll start closing it when the motor runs. also, the new hose is ethanol proof (per writing on the jacket) but seems softer than the old line and does bend a couple of places that looks wrong. good ideas guys!!!!

That vent on the tank needs to be open when running it.... Otherwise, it won't allow fuel to flow to the engine. The vent actually let's air into the tank, not out. I have one that does the same thing in the sun or heat - it gets all bloated and it have to unscrew the cap to equalize it. The vent doesn't equalize it like I would think it should.

woody with a view - 4-13-2014 at 01:16 PM

got it. i thought you were saying it should not be open to create suction.....

55steve - 4-13-2014 at 01:55 PM

Also could be a bad diaphragm in the fuel pump - if the hose had the green crap in it the fuel pump does also.

msteve1014 - 4-13-2014 at 05:59 PM

You need to stop that fuel leak. You do not want a fire on top of the other problems. Did you buy a complete fuel line, including the connectors on each end? Some of the after market ones do not fit quite right, even when new.

fuel line and connectors

captkw - 4-13-2014 at 08:06 PM

Hola,,, only buy OEM or SIERRA !!! attwood,,moeller,,tempo are all crap out of the box....forget worst Marine brand or as a place to buy motor parts !!!.....K&T :cool:

Islandbuilder - 4-13-2014 at 10:44 PM

I have a fuel tank connector that seems to connect, but it isn't onto the tank end fitting far enough for fuel to flow to the bulb.

A properly fitting connection shouldn't leak (fire bad!!) if it's leaking you are probably not getting a good enough connection so fuel isn't getting past the anti-spill valve built into the fitting.

New fitting seems like the deal. I can make mine work if I spray it with penetrating lube and work it back and forth a few times. Sometimes the ball bearings stick and the lube frees them up

fuel line connectors

captkw - 4-13-2014 at 10:50 PM

Yes, A shot of (any) oil once a month is a GOOD thing !! the cheap made ones can also suck air and make a lean condition at WOT !! not good !! spend the money and buy the GOOD stuff !! cheaper in the long run and not having to be towed in......K&T :cool:

....Woody,,,,that motor should be a merc (yr/ser#) and has crome cylinders....run a Heavy/Heavy 50/1 mix and use merc "motor tune" at 100 hrs...good lil motor and ifthe "switch box" hasn't been replace DO SO...known issue !! ck CDI electronics.... also keep in shade or at min cover with white T-shirt......Tight Lines!!!

[Edited on 4-14-2014 by captkw]

[Edited on 4-14-2014 by captkw]

[Edited on 4-14-2014 by captkw]

dizzyspots - 4-15-2014 at 06:39 AM

Dittos on the OEM or Sierra...www.iboats.com

woody with a view - 4-15-2014 at 02:05 PM

last time I ran it heavy it seemed to foul the plugs and dripped oil all over the concrete..... it is covered with a gray tarp. will look into the motor tune.

woody with a view - 4-20-2014 at 10:33 AM

went to worst marine and got a moeller!

it fits right but the barb is small and if i pump the ball too much it leaks past the hose clamp at the barb. i guess i won't pump so hard cuz she runs great now.

woody,,woody,,woody

captkw - 4-20-2014 at 11:06 AM

Hola,,Guess you missed my post...Get a serria or buy a OEM hose & connectors..throw the moeller in the trash...for the simple fact you WILL have problems with it...Pure JUNK !! :rolleyes:

[Edited on 4-21-2014 by captkw]

chuckie - 4-20-2014 at 12:40 PM

Send him the money for the replacement, why dont ya....I dont think they are "purs' junk...

Worst marine brand

captkw - 4-20-2014 at 06:12 PM

Hola,,Heres the skinny on the story...worst marine sold the brand name "Tempo" for many years and I would have guys show up at my boat yard at 6:00 AM with bait fresh on the hooks with gas smell all around the motor many,,many,,many times....then W.M. switched to "moeller" brand and they even are cheaper made JUNK !! and to "chukie" when you make 95 HR repairing and folks life depends on your work !! then I might give hoot about what you think on this matter....K&T :cool:

[Edited on 4-21-2014 by captkw]

[Edited on 4-21-2014 by captkw]

woody with a view - 4-21-2014 at 04:01 PM

hey capt, what is the mystery lube you are referring to at 100 hours?

Bob53 - 4-21-2014 at 05:55 PM

I bought two Moeller 3 gallon fuel tanks for my tin boat about a year ago and now they both leak around the filler cap. Garbage.

woody with a view - 4-21-2014 at 06:12 PM

get yourself a new one and let's fish! we'll b dragging the Valco down June 7.

Woody

captkw - 4-22-2014 at 06:48 PM

It's made by most outboard mfgr...for mercury try their "MOTOR TUNE" whati t does is clean the crap out the cylinder and behind the rings and allows for better heat transfer (cooling) just don't have your prop exhaust pointing at the wives white porshe.....LOL. if done correctly a lot of black messy (carbon) will come out of your motor !! Bob,, I'm surprised you even got a year out a "moeller"...pure JUNK !!...K&T :cool:

woody with a view - 4-22-2014 at 07:21 PM

went with Merc quickkleen.

most of the fuel I run these days is Pemex (no ethanol!!!!) but it does run some US crap to keep it over the winter.

Woody

captkw - 4-22-2014 at 08:12 PM

Hola,, Quickleen is added to the gas....mercury (quicksilver) "power tune" is sprayed in the carb throat while running and after it dies then sprayed in the spark plug holes towards the top of the piston...let sit 2/3 hrs then run up to WOT.......much needed for a two stroke motor....its cleans the the ring "lands" and should be done every 100 HRS.......nothing wrong with a lil Quickleen...but not doing the same job...and I'm sorry,, but I was looking at a Johnson/rude can....OOPS !! its called "power tune" ....K&T :cool:

....PS, I get asked sometimes "how the hell do you do a 6 banger" ???? lots of forethought and as many hands that I can round up !!!!! LOL.....sorta a Chinese fire drill once in a while !!!

[Edited on 4-23-2014 by captkw]

woody with a view - 4-26-2014 at 11:37 PM

so i put some quickkleen in the gallon of gas remaining in the tank and start pulling like a tomato picker and NOTHING!!!!

fuel is in the filter bowl, pull the brand new plugs (30 minutes of run time) and they are dripping oil!!!! clean them off and nothing....

i'm running 50-1 so don't know why i'm so drippy on the plugs. it ran fine last weekend.

any guesses?

Woody, Hola

captkw - 4-27-2014 at 10:14 AM

I would get a friend over for the "pull" man and check for a GOOD spark !!!! 7/16 in. min. The "switch box" on that motor is a known issue.....I will/can help you on this matter and a ser# would be nice !!... and do you have the 360 type of spark plugs..K&T :cool:

woody with a view - 4-27-2014 at 11:13 AM

serial # OG926197
NGKBP8H-N 10

when i squeeze the bulb i can hear air escaping so i'm going to get a Mercury hose/bulb this week with the OEM clip.

Maybe not your case but...

durrelllrobert - 4-27-2014 at 11:37 AM

...I just saw this on http://forums.iboats.com/johnson-evinrude-outboards/evinrude-smokes-black-wet-spark-plugs-

Re: Spark plug question on 2-cycle outboard [Re: huntersrain1]

Take it from an old 2 stroke race bike guy and do yourself a favor. Dont try to clean plugs on a 2 stroke. Once that porcelain gets soaked, it's toast. Plugs are cheap. Buy two sets at a time and keep a set in the boat.

I've had guys tell me 100 times that they "just bought those plugs"...when I told them to toss em out. They get really irritated at times too. Tough...the facts dont lie. A rich running 2 stroke will eat plugs. Period. If you idle too long and dont blow it out..( especially of you premix the fuel)...the plugs are toast. Oh, they'll run...but they wont "perform" under pressure.

Save all that sandpaper and washing plugs for your car or lawnmower...but it wont do you much good on a 2 popper engine.
Sorry, but it's true. And if your engine uses surface gap plugs....buy three sets at once. They are worse.

willardguy - 4-27-2014 at 01:45 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by durrelllrobert
...I just saw this on http://forums.iboats.com/johnson-evinrude-outboards/evinrude-smokes-black-wet-spark-plugs-

Re: Spark plug question on 2-cycle outboard [Re: huntersrain1]

Take it from an old 2 stroke race bike guy and do yourself a favor. Dont try to clean plugs on a 2 stroke. Once that porcelain gets soaked, it's toast. Plugs are cheap. Buy two sets at a time and keep a set in the boat.

I've had guys tell me 100 times that they "just bought those plugs"...when I told them to toss em out. They get really irritated at times too. Tough...the facts dont lie. A rich running 2 stroke will eat plugs. Period. If you idle too long and dont blow it out..( especially of you premix the fuel)...the plugs are toast. Oh, they'll run...but they wont "perform" under pressure.

Save all that sandpaper and washing plugs for your car or lawnmower...but it wont do you much good on a 2 popper engine.
Sorry, but it's true. And if your engine uses surface gap plugs....buy three sets at once. They are worse.

Oh the memories!

Woody

captkw - 4-27-2014 at 01:49 PM

Hola..BTW that's a great lil motor..I had one (remote steering & shift) on a 14 Livingston that I used in Baja and dragged to panama and back with....Yes get a real fuel line and rember the the primer bulb arrow HAS to be facing UP !! as in damn near straight up...once you get prime the lil round choke/idle speed knob pull at least once ALL the way out...that pumps a small shot of fuel in the intake for easy starting..under the cowl is a fuel filter with a small "O" ring on top of the clear/white cup...make sure that it goes back together with it..easy to loose..lighty oil the O ring before reinstall.....the most import aspect of any marine motor is the condition of the w/p impeller !!! running it on a hose dosnt mean a damn thing about the condition of a w/p impeller!!!....if you don't KNOW how old the w/p impeller is...Get it Serviced before taking boat out...

woody with a view - 4-27-2014 at 04:37 PM

the impeller is a year old.

i'll get new plugs. what's a surface gap?

woody

captkw - 4-27-2014 at 06:47 PM

your motor has the correct plug and is a 360 or surface fire plug...and a damn good plug at that....you can always pull them and inspect them....but they need gas,,cranking and good DVA (voltage)....for the motor to run....Get the fuel system fixed.... and you cant go wrong with mercury parts !! (quicksilver)..PS if left out in the Baja summer sun the lwr (end) is enough to toast the impeller...it gets what is called a "set" and will run fine on the hose,,but can burn up a good motor FAST...that motor has no alarm for overheat !!! and don't worry about the oil on the plugs..(good thing) the ignition system will fire them just fine if no electrical issues...the DVA on a outboard is made to take it in stride!!.. this is NOT a bike motor!! Rob is correct about bike motors...K&T

[Edited on 4-28-2014 by captkw]

[Edited on 4-28-2014 by captkw]

[Edited on 4-28-2014 by captkw]

woody with a view - 4-28-2014 at 07:00 PM

ordered the OEM hose with engine clip. ordered 4 plugs. prolly won't arrive by this weekend so it'll be next weekend before I can mess with it.

the motor lives in Sandy Eggo all year and sees Baja 2-3 times a year for a week each and goes surfing NOB a couple times each summer. it doesn't get much use, never really has. I'm sure the impeller is fine. had it switched, lower oil and carb cleaned last summer. I just need to get it on the water and run it hard to blow it out!

Woody

captkw - 4-28-2014 at 08:49 PM

Thanks for the reply..Now I have to look up Sandy Eggo !! never heard of it.....The impeller gets the most damage from sitting or going to shore and picking up sand,grit and the rare kelp balls... I would suggest for the first run always watch the tell/tale out let..also at high speeds the vanes have to flex enough to let the water (now under pressure) to pass by the vanes for good cooling...a very missunderstud unit !! Tight Lines

Hook - 4-28-2014 at 09:09 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by captkw
Thanks for the reply..Now I have to look up Sandy Eggo !! never heard of it.....

Ask DavidK, there is a mission there. I think he has maps. :lol:

Sounds like an electrical problem to me (not plugs, they rarely fail even in an over rich environment), especially if you are running good plugs.

Actually, I'd check the grounds and the hot leads to ANYTHING related to ignition before I began buying parts. Like Neil Young said, corrosion never sleeps. Especially check where the ground wires actually ground on the engine block or a ground (-) terminal block.

LOL,,,Hook has a sense of humor !!

captkw - 4-28-2014 at 09:15 PM

DK is cool in my book......from the post that woody has made he has a fuel issue to start with..I asked him to ck spark but he hasnt replyed about that yet...those plugs can be coverd in oil and work FINE if the ignition system is alright....if they have Carbon(black,,sooty) then chit hits the fan and have to be replaced as ROBERT noted....to be continued..........................

woody with a view - 4-29-2014 at 05:25 AM

i'll check Saturday.

i get all squishy for a Happy Ending!

woody with a view - 5-3-2014 at 02:55 PM

4 plugs arrived. got the gapped figured out .040 in case you were wondering. the gas line with the engine clip arrived. cut in a glass in-line fuel filter and shortened up the 8 foot line to make it more better! placed lower end in a plastic barrel i got from work. pumped the bulb and didn't hear any air escaping.......

WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA on the first pull!!!!!!!!!!!!!

:spingrin:

thanks for all the suggestions guys. now i got 4 spark plugs in reserve. enough to last a lifetime!

T minus 33 days...... :cool:

acadist - 5-3-2014 at 04:50 PM

Let Bea do the squishin!

woody with a view - 5-3-2014 at 04:57 PM

i'm just stoked she likes Baja!!!

"Good on you mate !!"

captkw - 5-3-2014 at 07:49 PM

woody,,2 quik notes..Highly recomend a metal painted fuel filter...NO glass !!! nope,not,n/a (not applicable)forget the thought....LOL.and when I ran you ser# I thought that they were 360 or surface gap plugs ????? or your coils blue or black ??? glad to hear you get er running !! K&T...forget about the plugs..they are not 360's...........

[Edited on 5-4-2014 by captkw]

woody with a view - 5-3-2014 at 08:39 PM

thanks for the help Capt. next ballena is on me!

acadist - 5-3-2014 at 09:08 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by woody with a view
i'm just stoked she likes Baja!!!

She's a keeper!

woody with a view - 5-10-2014 at 09:57 AM

went out to fire it up for the weekly idle in the water filled barrel and NOTHING..... fuel is in the filter and the inline glass filter. gapped and changed the plugs and nothing. run switch is in correct position.

what is the "switch box" ? the run/off switch?

woody with a view - 5-10-2014 at 01:03 PM

DISREGARD!!!

i went back (stubborn bastidge!) and switched the run/off switch up and down 20 times, disconnected the fuel line, noticed some flakes of crud in the glass filter, reconnected the fuel line, scratched my you know what and VIOLA!!!

Barry A. - 5-10-2014 at 01:42 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by woody with a view
DISREGARD!!!

i went back (stubborn bastidge!) and switched the run/off switch up and down 20 times, disconnected the fuel line, noticed some flakes of crud in the glass filter, reconnected the fuel line, scratched my you know what and VIOLA!!!

You gotta luv them Outboard motors!!!! :lol:

We boatguys have all been there.

Barry

woody with a view - 5-10-2014 at 01:57 PM

it's driving me loco!

Woody....

captkw - 5-10-2014 at 04:13 PM

Hola..on that motor the fuel pump is on the side or the carb...and the idle speed/chock knob has to be pulled ALL the out and that shoots a shot of gas into the intake....proper starting procedure....if still no start,, CK for spark ( takes two people)..The switch box on that engine is mounted on the side of the engine with a bunch of wires going to it....it takes DVA from the stator underneath the flywheel and converts into usable voltage...they are a known failure on a older unit !! (the switchbox)also under the flywheel is a timer base......But ,,I degres...lets see if you have spark...if yes then you have a fuel problem which Is not likely...do you have a land line to call me...going out the door for a barby,,,I'll check back later...btw lots of curseing does NOT seem to help the engine but really seems to help the health of the guy pulling the rope !! K&T

woody with a view - 5-10-2014 at 05:16 PM

capt see u2u in top right corner. call me tomorrow around 9am.

Woody

captkw - 5-11-2014 at 05:10 AM

Hola, I have u2u's from other members but not from you !!please try again...its 4:03 am and moving slow !! someone from the 530 area code u2u me...that's not you is it ?????

Hook - 5-11-2014 at 05:45 AM

Cappy, are there resistance (ohms) measurements he can take on the switchbox (when it wont fire) that will let him know if it's the switchbox?

And what about the run/stop switch? Those can fail/be intermittent and can be easy to bypass with some jumpers when the engine wont start.

Nothing more frustrating than an intermittent electrical problem........

What about that fuel pump? It's probably easy to remove and disassemble to look for issues.

Woody, have you visually inspected the entire length of your inside-the-cowling fuel line system to make sure there is no where air is entering or fuel is escaping while it sits?

Cant imagine it's anything with the external fuel system since it's all new.

[Edited on 5-11-2014 by Hook]

woody with a view - 5-11-2014 at 06:44 AM

there is moisture around the bowl where the fuel escapes when it is flooded. i thought maybe by leaving the fuel line connected it was causing too much pressure just sitting there all week but can't believe that is the issue.

Bob and Susan - 5-11-2014 at 06:55 AM

steve55 on the first page had the answer woody...

its the fuel pump

its feeding the top carb when you use the ball under pressure then it runs out of gas

there is a rubber gasket inside that rots

replace it if possible
or rebuild it if the pump is part of the top carb

woody with a view - 5-11-2014 at 06:59 AM

when it fired yesterday it idled and revved just fine for 20 minutes. i'll go out in a bit and see if it is cured!

[Edited on 5-11-2014 by woody with a view]

Bob and Susan - 5-11-2014 at 07:16 AM

I 've had a couple of "driveway" boats...
they run great in the driveway but not on the water

you need to "field test" it before you bring it down to Baja

bring it and it WILL break!!!

Hook - 5-11-2014 at 07:16 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by woody with a view
when it fired yesterday it idled and revved just fine for 20 minutes. i'll go out in a bit and see if it is cured!

[Edited on 5-11-2014 by woody with a view]

Yeah, 7am; why not!!! :lol:

Oh, wait, you're in the States! :saint:

The moisture around the bowl; is it gasoline or simply condensation. Taste it or sniff it.

If it's gas, it could be a failing float needle valve that is intermittently sticking. And eventually the rubber/plastic cap on the float needle valve will disintegrate, especially in exposure to ethanol, allowing too much fuel in; though this rarely prevents an engine from running.

I expect you have already removed the fuel bowl and sprayed the entire float mechanism arm with a carb cleaner. Work it back and forth. This might be the most common problem for an engine that's been sitting. If the float is stuck in the down position, pumping with the fuel line bulb will usually produce fuel exiting the carb at the top, in copious amounts. If the float needle is working it stops fuel from continuing to enter the fuel bowl (the fuel bowl is where the float and needle valve reside) with moderate pumping pressure.

A fuel pump leak from the gasket should be very evident. In fact, if you can verify that your float needle is fine, pumping with the bulb should produce leakage around the fuel pump..........or for that matter, anywhere there is a leak between the float needle and the fuel bulb. A fuel bulb manually pumped can develop lots more pressure on the fuel system than simply a running engine.

[Edited on 5-11-2014 by Hook]

woody with a view - 5-11-2014 at 07:38 AM

i had a guy named Fernando the Outboard King in Santee go thru it last summer and rebuild the carb (so he said!) so i'm hoping he would have caught that. he is a great mechanic as far as i'm concerned, and is highly touted! i got a manual from mercury so i guess it's time to dig into it and the motor. seeing how i'm only home friday night thru sunday night time is not something i have too much of.....

Pacifico - 5-11-2014 at 07:57 AM

Woody, if you are having ANY issues or concerns with your outboard, don't leave shore without a VHF radio! Treat it as you will break down out there and prepare for it. In addition to VHF radio, I now carry an EPIRB just in case.

Hopefully you can fix it and get the gremlins out before you head south. Is your boat already down south or up here? (I know you have the engine up here.) if your boat is up here, I would definitely try to get it on the water somewhere and put some hours on it.

Hook - 5-11-2014 at 08:30 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by woody with a view
i had a guy named Fernando the Outboard King in Santee go thru it last summer and rebuild the carb (so he said!) so i'm hoping he would have caught that. he is a great mechanic as far as i'm concerned, and is highly touted! i got a manual from mercury so i guess it's time to dig into it and the motor. seeing how i'm only home friday night thru sunday night time is not something i have too much of.....

Well, then I doubt the issue is anything with the parts in the carb......except that the float can stick in no time if fuel goes bad and the resulting "varnish" forces it to stick. But, again, a stuck float is usually evident by gasoline running out of the air intake or some other port on the top part of the carb. We used to rap the side of the carb with a screwdriver handle if the float was stuck and we were out on the water. That's a temporary fix; spraying the mechanism, internally, is the best solution.

I have to say that I am a fan of the Lucas Oil gas additives. I run some through every ten tankfuls or so in every gas operated engine I have.

woody with a view - 5-11-2014 at 08:38 AM

i've got Lucas in it now, in addition to the quicksilver. i've only got about 1/2 gallon in the tank now as i'm trying to run this cleaning cycle thru it and have little or no fuel remaining so i can top off with ethanol-free Pemex in 3 weeks!

Pacifico - it is here. i have 2 handheld VHFs, one for the boat and one for the beach/other vehicle in the caravan. i won't have time to get it on the water prior to the trip. i'll make sure to run close to shore for awhile to see how she's running prior to heading offshore. worst case, i get some rowing in and shoot off a flare or 5!

:lol:

[Edited on 5-11-2014 by woody with a view]

Bob and Susan - 5-11-2014 at 09:12 AM

vessel assist...

http://www.boatus.com/towing/

willardguy - 5-11-2014 at 09:14 AM

sea anchor and oars!

WOODY

captkw - 5-11-2014 at 09:45 AM

Did you CK for spark ???? quik test with two guys open throttle a crack...remove air box or on most mariners (mecury) there are plastic plug you remove from air box...and with little red tube on a can of starter fluid have guy 1 pulling with guy 2 shoot the Starting fluid into a carb....they do sale starting flueid for two strokes that have oil in the mix ,,but hard to find...Ck for spark,,CK for spark,,Check for spark,,check for spark

woody with a view - 5-11-2014 at 09:56 AM

i went out and pulled 10 times and nothing. did some wiggling around and it fired. looking under the hood see the blue thingy? and the overflow port from the bowl? and the wetness at the gasket? i wipe the gas off that gasket and 20 seconds later it looks like this. what is that gasket called?

woody

captkw - 5-11-2014 at 10:03 AM

that's the thing that shoots a shot of fuel into the intake..looks like the arm to it is missing??.Have you ckecked for spark???????????????????????????????????????????????????? if you push down on that blue plunger and then (after cking spark) and if gas is in the flaot bowl it SHOULD start....I GOT YOUR LL and will call soon...But,,PLEASE do a spark check..the USCG AUX was leaving to go patrol and lost steering so I running out the door and willcall asap...K&T

woody with a view - 5-11-2014 at 10:05 AM

the arm is there that pushes down on it you just can't see it. nobody to hold the spark plug while i pull! :lol:

woody with a view - 5-11-2014 at 10:07 AM

can't those guys swim? :rolleyes:

Bob and Susan - 5-11-2014 at 11:25 AM

that's the fuel pump...check the washer...4 Philips head screws

fuelpump.jpg - 43kB

woody with a view - 5-11-2014 at 11:32 AM

see the hole just above the rubber to the left of your arrow? i think that is the overflow port when the engine is flooded? should fuel come out of it ever? it does when i manually push down the blue chingas. that is not what is causing the seepage i am seeing when i wipe and 20 seconds later its wet.

i got a call from CaptKW and i'm hoping my starting issue is me not understanding the procedure to start it. i was not pulling the choke lever at all prior to pulling the rope. i thought it was warm in Sandy Eggo and choke wasn't needed. turns out that lever squirts fuel in to prime the carb! it otherwise runs perfect. hopefully that's all it was.

now, one last question. should i run the carb dry prior to laying the motor on its side during transport in the back of my truck or does it not matter?

msteve1014 - 5-11-2014 at 11:49 AM

I think that hole is to let gas out if the diaphragm leaks gas to the wrong side. Most fuel pumps are similar. Sounds like the rubber is old, dry, cracked.

Hook - 5-11-2014 at 11:51 AM

What's that line with the zip tie "hose clamp"? :lol:

Looks like a fuel line........but zip ties cant close completely around the entire circumference of the hose opening. And since that line is pointed down, fuel could leak IF that is a fuel line.

Get a stainless clamp on that, Woodrow, if it is a fuel or air line.

Can I call you Woodrow? :biggrin:

Bob and Susan - 5-11-2014 at 11:52 AM

overflow for gas...when you push the ball too much...

I use a choke one time...then after it starts...never...you'll flood it

watch witch side you lay it on...there is a "correct" side

woody with a view - 5-11-2014 at 12:23 PM

that is the fuel line to the filter from the tank. it is a non-OEM zip tie as the other 3 are black. to satisfy the Hookster i changed it out with the only small worm drive clamp i have.

WHICH SIDE IS THE RIGHT SIDE? i mean correct side! :light:

oh, and ordered up a rebuild kit for the carb/fuel pump from mercuryparts-direct.com

[Edited on 5-11-2014 by woody with a view]

55steve - 5-11-2014 at 01:31 PM

Woody - One day soon we'll sit around at BoLA and BS about this engine. I could have fixed this in about an hour. I know mechanical things VERY well...

woody with a view - 5-11-2014 at 02:07 PM

june 6-14

ncampion - 5-11-2014 at 02:37 PM

Never seen such a long thread about an outboard that won't run. For crying out loud, they never run!!

Hook - 5-11-2014 at 02:48 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by ncampion
Never seen such a long thread about an outboard that won't run. For crying out loud, they never run!!

LOL!

Yeah, 2-strokes can be like that.

willardguy - 5-11-2014 at 03:00 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by woody with a view
that is the fuel line to the filter from the tank. it is a non-OEM zip tie as the other 3 are black. to satisfy the Hookster i changed it out with the only small worm drive clamp i have.

WHICH SIDE IS THE RIGHT SIDE? i mean correct side! :light:

oh, and ordered up a rebuild kit for the carb/fuel pump from mercuryparts-direct.com

[Edited on 5-11-2014 by woody with a view]

4 stroke outboards must lay tiller side down, don't think it matters with 2strokes. but im sure the captain will set us straight! :yes:

woody with a view - 5-11-2014 at 04:15 PM

it runs! i think i wasn't priming it, just yanking until it started.....

CASE CLOSED!

Hook - 5-11-2014 at 04:18 PM

Cant you launch that thing in Mission Bay or something? You really gotta run it under load before you haul it all the way to BOLA.

msteve1014 - 5-11-2014 at 04:56 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by woody with a view
it runs! i think i wasn't priming it, just yanking until it started.....

CASE CLOSED!

Case closed? I do not believe it. You will be back next week.

woody with a view - 5-11-2014 at 05:55 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Hook
Cant you launch that thing in Mission Bay or something? You really gotta run it under load before you haul it all the way to BOLA.

yeah, i suppose. chula vista marina is just down the road.....

standby, until next week! :lol:

WOODY

captkw - 5-11-2014 at 06:50 PM

Congrats..and that plunger part that we discussed should never leak.. and I always recomenned to run at a high idle to empty the carb (do it) and makes sure the fuel connector on the engine is pressed in to allow air in..Much better for the fuel pump diapram !!!.. I'm sorry I didn't have more time to talk...rather busy to say the least !!! Tight lines and another satisfied boater..Yee Haa !! Keith & the famous lil Tasha :cool:

...PS..do NOT use a screw clamp..NOPE..use A very small zip tie like the factory does...or if your picky like me I use a zip tie that is rounded at the head for a true 360 seal

[Edited on 5-12-2014 by captkw]

Hook - 5-12-2014 at 07:13 AM

Well, I'd rather have a SS clamp on a fuel fitting in a hot operating environment than a plastic zip tie. To each his own.

Why no love for the SS hose clamp, cappy? Shall I replace all my fuel fittings with zip ties? :biggrin:

I do respect your opinion on this subject.

[Edited on 5-12-2014 by Hook]

Bob and Susan - 5-12-2014 at 07:20 AM

yea I like the SS clamp too

the factory ONLY puts on zip ties because it's cheaper.

they break in time

hose clamps

captkw - 5-12-2014 at 07:35 AM

I use what the factory uses or better...a screw type clamp does very poor job on small hoses and can actually cut the line due to vibration..for high pressure lines I use "Oetiker" SS steel bands/clamps and for low pressure as in woodys case a good small ziptie has been found to make a much better clamp the a "screw" type as the screw type has a "flat" spot in it (not good....also as in OEM apps for larger hoses I use "T" clamps and they are pricey but do the job correctly...remember the simple fact that " all it takes to stop a engine is one bad 50 cent part" so do it right the first time and be done with it.....I found out at about the age of 20 every guy thinks he is a mechanic and can fix it himself !! some guys are doc,cops and cooks& crooks..etc,etc but assumeing to repair a motor and it does not mean that will stay running with performance and realibilty.....

[Edited on 5-12-2014 by captkw]

[Edited on 5-12-2014 by captkw]

[Edited on 5-12-2014 by captkw]

woody with a view - 5-17-2014 at 11:19 AM

it only took 2 pumps of the choke lever and 4-5 pulls on the rope and she's humming along. next stop, BOLA!

T minus 19 days and a wake up!

monoloco - 5-17-2014 at 11:43 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by captkw
I use what the factory uses or better...a screw type clamp does very poor job on small hoses and can actually cut the line due to vibration..for high pressure lines I use "Oetiker" SS steel bands/clamps and for low pressure as in woodys case a good small ziptie has been found to make a much better clamp the a "screw" type as the screw type has a "flat" spot in it (not good....also as in OEM apps for larger hoses I use "T" clamps and they are pricey but do the job correctly...remember the simple fact that " all it takes to stop a engine is one bad 50 cent part" so do it right the first time and be done with it.....I found out at about the age of 20 every guy thinks he is a mechanic and can fix it himself !! some guys are doc,cops and cooks& crooks..etc,etc but assumeing to repair a motor and it does not mean that will stay running with performance and realibilty.....

[Edited on 5-12-2014 by captkw]

[Edited on 5-12-2014 by captkw]

[Edited on 5-12-2014 by captkw]

+1 on the zip ties, they definitely work better on small hoses than the stainless screw type, and you can keep a few extras in your tool kit.

willardguy - 5-17-2014 at 11:56 AM

i've always had my best luck securing fuel line with a couple wraps of 22# copper wire.