BajaNomad

san francisco de la sierra

susaninlapaz - 4-28-2014 at 01:23 PM

had the most terrifying six kilometros of my life last Friday driving the last bit of a 37-kilometro road from highway 1 (the pavement ends at km30, and if I can figure out how to attach a foto you will see how the rest looks). I have a 1979 El Dorado RV on a Ford Econoline chassis, and at points the dirt part of the road is maybe 2 feet wider than my wheelbase. on the right is the mountain, and on the left aint nuthin but canyon.

all that said, hundreds of people drive that road every year so that they can go to the "hotel" at the top (maybe 8 rooms in 3 cabins, and a restaurant with wifi!!! but no cell service) and then take a burro to see famous cave paintings and what the government sign says is a "mysterious biodiversity where new species may be discovered at any time." when I was there last week, a tour group came back and had freshly made goat stew. they were from Italy, and all six were over 60, and all of their Spanish was perfect.

my alternator died on the mountaintop (with warning, I admit, but I am an old lady who does not know what the red alternator light may indicate, and I got bad reassurance from my mechanic in la paz when I phoned), so I spent six hours with Yadira, the chef and hotel manager, Chico her husband the goat herder and cheesemaker, and some of the 13 children who attend the one-size-fits-all school that serves the 30 families populating san Francisco de la sierra. by 5pm we had reached two agreements: Chico would drive my RV back down the mountain all the way to his mechanic to make sure I got good service and a good price, and I would return in about two weeks, planning to stay for a month or two and teach English to anyone who would like, since not a single soul on the mountain speaks any.

but I will NOT be driving. chico will come get me--as before, yadira will chauffeur me in their truck--after I call from vizcaino, which is about an hour away.

if YOU want to tackle that road cuz you are a sensible person who is not afraid to go where many men, women, and children have gone before, from the north the signs are great, but I don't know about the southern approach. the road is about halfway between santa rosalia and guerrero negro.

let's see if I can do those fotos...

shari - 4-28-2014 at 01:32 PM

wow Susan...what an adventure. I know that road well and it is indeed challenging in a good sturdy pick up...what possessed you to try it in your RV?????

But as most misfortunes in Baja...they turn out being "life changers" as in good things happen as a result. If you indeed go back and stay a month, you will never be the same and will fall in love with the ranch life it's people and culture. You will experience things most people only see in movies or read about and the experience will enrich your life immensely...an invaluable adventure.

I dont think I'd try to bring the old beast up there again though! I look forward to hearing about your ongoing saga. If you want to hang here while your truck gets fixed...c'mon out! We're only an hour on the little Ecobus...you can house sit for us while you are here.

san francisco de la sierra

susaninlapaz - 4-28-2014 at 01:42 PM

hey, shari, great to meet you! will send a u2u about visiting/housesitting, but meanwhile just want to say how much I appreciate your response--I feel the same way about everything, including "what on earth were you thinking????" all I can say is that I am new to the rv life, not all that bright about a lot of stuff to begin with, and a guy named Yan told me it would be fine to drive my rig all the way! I do have to take her back up so I have a place to live, but chico assures me it is a lot easier for my rv than it is for me, and he'll be glad to take my fear money anyway!

shari - 4-28-2014 at 01:47 PM

Aha....well we need to talk to that Yan guy!!! I'm sure the universe will unfold all it's new plans for you in due time. If the SF vaqueros tell you it's OK...then do it!

ligui - 4-28-2014 at 01:59 PM

Hi Susan thanks for sharing your story with us . Doing things i shouldn't have are my best memories . ;)

Happy travels

Before there was a road...

David K - 4-28-2014 at 02:06 PM

... there was the Camino Real to San Ignacio, or arrive by helicopter!




Choral Pepper (wearing hat) stands with the young female
inhabitants of this tiny village.
Never before have these folks seen outsiders.
A three day mule ride was (then) needed to reach San Ignacio
from San Francisco de la Sierra.
An auto road was constructed 20 years
after Choral visited by helicopter.

susaninlapaz - 4-28-2014 at 02:11 PM

WOW! thanks...once more I am going to try to post a foto...

BajaBlanca - 4-28-2014 at 05:10 PM

I can help ypu with the loading a photo tomorrow, if you like. Check your email.

This was a great and scary story and we have one too.....one of the dumbest and scariest trips was from highway 1 to San Juanico via San Ignacio lagoon. Let me hunt for the link and add it when I find it. I still shake my head in awe that we did what we did.

What were we thinking???


Found the link to that horrorific trip:
http://forums.bajanomad.com/viewthread.php?tid=53847#pid6341...



And you are a trooper for sharing.


[Edited on 4-29-2014 by BajaBlanca]

David K - 4-28-2014 at 05:40 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by susaninlapaz
WOW! thanks...once more I am going to try to post a foto...


I explain it here (in the first post on the Nomad Photo Gallery forum): http://forums.bajanomad.com/viewthread.php?tid=65085

Blanca learned... and the only issue a few haven't caught on is that Baja Nomad is an 800 pixel wide format, so photos cannot be wider than that without distorting the page. It is easy, just click the gear symbol as explained in the link's first post.

silly people on ridiculous roads

susaninlapaz - 4-28-2014 at 05:46 PM

fantastic fotos! and I love YOUR story, and spirit...yes, would love help with how to upload a foto with my post

David K - 4-28-2014 at 05:51 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by susaninlapaz
fantastic fotos! and I love YOUR story, and spirit...yes, would love help with how to upload a foto with my post


http://forums.bajanomad.com/viewthread.php?tid=65085

(Oh, a famous Baja saying: "Bad Roads Bring Good People")

hey david k

susaninlapaz - 4-28-2014 at 05:53 PM

thanks for the link and the info! I figured if I hunted on the site long enuff I could find some help, but honestly I am pretty bad at that sort of thing, so glad for the help. let me know if I can help you back in any of MY areas of expertise. need to know how to make great meatloaf and brownies? how about a document copyedited? a sermon...?

David K - 4-28-2014 at 09:54 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by susaninlapaz
thanks for the link and the info! I figured if I hunted on the site long enuff I could find some help, but honestly I am pretty bad at that sort of thing, so glad for the help. let me know if I can help you back in any of MY areas of expertise. need to know how to make great meatloaf and brownies? how about a document copyedited? a sermon...?


No return payment required, but thank you. Baja Nomads are people helping people (and a few who just watch and throw mud)!;)

Whale-ista - 4-29-2014 at 01:46 AM

Blanca: Wow- that was some dust bowl you crossed! Go Tracker go!

Would love to see fotos of Susan's recent trip. I've been considering a drive up that way, but in a truck, not RV.
Quote:
Originally posted by BajaBlanca
I can help ypu with the loading a photo tomorrow, if you like. Check your email.

This was a great and scary story and we have one too.....one of the dumbest and scariest trips was from highway 1 to San Juanico via San Ignacio lagoon. Let me hunt for the link and add it when I find it. I still shake my head in awe that we did what we did.

What were we thinking???


Found the link to that horrorific trip:
http://forums.bajanomad.com/viewthread.php?tid=53847#pid6341...



And you are a trooper for sharing.


[Edited on 4-29-2014 by BajaBlanca]

shari - 4-29-2014 at 07:21 AM

U2U Susan for her blog link which has great photos and the story to go along with them! The adventure continues.....

Is your truck fixed yet?

bajalearner - 4-29-2014 at 09:10 AM

Maybe you should not teach them English. You may be embarrassed my what they say about you driving that big car up the mountain. hahaha

Nice report, thx

elgatoloco - 4-29-2014 at 12:08 PM

We went up that road last year and I wish I had done it earlier before the pavement. We were in full size pickup with camper. Having that last bit of 'old road' gives you an idea of what the locals faced before asphalt. The area up there is truly unique and we will go back, eventually, for a longer stay. :dudette:

silver linings

susaninlapaz - 4-29-2014 at 01:55 PM

yes, not only is the drive totally worth it, but those last 7km keep out the wussy riffraff! it will never be cabo-ized, like my poor la paz