BajaNomad

The slow roll: San Diego to Cabo Pulmo (June 12-?)- Cabo Pulmo +Sea turtle

Whale-ista - 6-19-2014 at 01:23 PM

Another day in Baja, this one in La Paz at lovely Casabuena, near downtown. Close to center of town, but in a real neighborhood. It is family owned/operated, complete with a beautiful courtyard full of pets, plants and pool.

I feel right at home. (Except for the pool)
Pets? Check. 2 dogs, 2 cats, lots of geckos. Yvette has gotten along with all so far.
Gardens? Check. Gorgeous plants and landscaping.
Pool? Yes! With a fabulous mural by local artist.

So happy to have a day to spend in such pleasant surroundings. I've decided it's good to alternate travel days, especially with this heat. My new routine is: a long drive, a day of rest, another drive, etc. No reason to rush...

As of today, I've been a week on the road. I've stayed in Cielito Lindo, Guerrero Nego, La Bocana, Loreto and now La Paz.

I have driven smooth, newly constructed stretches of Hwy. 1 that pass under my tires like a smooth, soft dream, and other areas with potholes that swallow smaller cars without warning.

I've had a commercial truck come at me head-on while it trying to pass a "slow" car, with the drivers of both yelling insults at each other.

I've seen road-crew after road-crew painting, digging, waving... how can they survive this heat?

Meanwhile, my legs look like an "all you can eat" mosquito buffet...

But, since I don't Photobucket, I have no photos to share. No matter. The most overwhelming aspect of this trip can't really be photographed: it's the heat.

Torrid. Humid. Draining. Unrelenting...and it's only June!

Clearly I picked the wrong year to camp at Cabo Pulmo... was I ever young and strong enough to willingly camp in this kind of heat??

The natural AC on the Pacific coast worked great. But crossing from La Bocana to Santa Rosalia Monday was brutal. I stopped briefly in Mulege en route to Loreto and could hardly breath the damp, hot late afternoon air.

For the last few days on the Cortez side my routine is: awaken early and walk near where I'm staying. Enjoy a leisurely breakfast at a cafe, chat with the locals, then head back to where I'm staying for an afternoon in my cool, dark AC cave.

Emerge after dark, Nosferatu-like, hoping for a cool breeze while looking for nourishment. Ideal form: a cold plate of salad with fresh grilled yellowtail on top, and a cold adult beverage to wash it down. Last night, I found this combo at Tailhunter, and enjoyed the malecon and their live music emanating from upstairs until the karaoke bar next door overwhelmed it.

Oh well, it was 11 pm- time to go back to the bat-cave at Casabuena.

This morning was spent chatting with one of the owner and other travellers at CasaBuena, admiring the pool (to be used soon), and now- AC cave time again.

My hats off to those who travel south this month and manage to stay outside from 11 am-6 pm. Perhaps if I were on the water, or in the water. But that's currently not an option so for now... siesta time!

[Edited on 6-21-2014 by Whale-ista]

[Edited on 6-23-2014 by Whale-ista]

[Edited on 6-23-2014 by Whale-ista]

MMc - 6-19-2014 at 01:39 PM

So why not go to the pacific side? Todos Santos is a couple of hours away, to go to Baja and stay indoors is like staying home only different.

Whale-ista - 6-19-2014 at 02:07 PM

I really want to see cabo pulmo this trip. I've come this far, don't want to give up the chance, especially since not sure when I'll be able to get this far south again.

And I don't mind the PM siestas. Rather luxurious...
This is a vacation, so a good time to read, rest, relax.

(Plus, poodle is thrilled I finally have time to join her naps...)

[Edited on 6-19-2014 by Whale-ista]

El Jefe - 6-19-2014 at 02:36 PM

The good thing about this time of year is that the sea water at Cabo Pulmo will be warm and comfortable for snorkeling etc. Then when you get out you will not get chilled by a cold wind. Just a warm breeze if you are lucky. It was still on the east cape the last few days, but we have a breeze today.

We are fortunate to have enough solar panels to run AC in our small bedroom all day. We call it ICE STATION ZEBRA. It provides a cooling respite from the warm day and a comfortable place to sleep at night. Paula is in there napping under a blanket right now. How luxurious.

With no AC, a fan is the next best thing. Short of that when camping, well, pray for a little off shore wind to blow through your camp. Or just get a room with a good ceiling fan. Stay in the shade near the water all day and you will be fine. Tell us about all the fish you see! I saw some mobulas flopping out there yesterday. Awesome.

jbcoug - 6-19-2014 at 03:19 PM

It appears to me that you are coping with the conditions perfectly. Keep up the good work!

churro - 6-19-2014 at 08:26 PM

Thanks for posting? Sounds like a great trip!

BajaBlanca - 6-19-2014 at 08:44 PM

send me the pics and I will post them for you! Hang in there, you have found the perfect remedy for enjoying the south - air conditioning and siestas are really not a bad combo. Except now I still do it even tho' we are home already.

I think you will love the snorkeling in Cabo Pulmo -just bear in mind that it is quite a desolate drive from Los Barriles (should you go that way) and it is just a sleepy little village with awesome waters.

Happy Summer Solstice from the tropics!

Whale-ista - 6-21-2014 at 08:40 AM

Another day another 100 KM, and, voila! tropical paradise!

I am now, officially, in the tropics-and by driving, not flying, ferrying etc. Wonderful... this has been quite an adventure. And because of the relatively early heat, the poodle and I literally have the place to ourselves, and the wildlife. There is no one else staying here.

This is really, truly a paradise of birds, lizards, bats, flowering bushes... I awaken surrounded by raucous bird calls, a small hawk circling overhead, woodpeckers hammering on... metal? Oh, and of course: roosters.

I don't mind, even if it is 5 AM- the air is perfumed by fabulous flowering fragrant plants. This is the coolest time of day to enjoy the sights.

In addition to bird calls, Mike has set up busy bird feeders near the empty bar/restaurant. As I walk around reptiles dart for cover- iguanas by the empty pool patio, geckos in the palapa roof.

For those who have never been here, it is...unique. Quirky. Full of artistic flair and brightly colored embellishments. Love the "folk art"- handcrafted objects everywhere. Lovely...

After a week of travel, my journey has felt a bit Quixotic. Many have advised me to give up and head back to the cool Pacific, but I really have wanted to see this side of the south peninsula, and I am delighted to be here. It's been nearly 30 years since my last driving trip south of La Paz, so... a few things have changed!

The poodle and I have finally adjusted to the heat/humidity, so we don't want to go back to the Pacific side right now!

Off to the beach. More later...

shari - 6-22-2014 at 07:09 AM

now you know why I rarely leave Asuncion from June-October...too darn hot to function for an old snow bird like me! Look forward to some photos and more of your report.

DJL - 6-22-2014 at 09:09 AM

Quote:


In addition to bird calls, Mike has set up busy bird feeders near the empty bar/restaurant. As I walk around reptiles dart for cover- iguanas by the empty pool patio, geckos in the palapa roof.

For those who have never been here, it is...unique. Quirky. Full of artistic flair and brightly colored embellishments. Love the "folk art"- handcrafted objects everywhere. Lovely...



La Trinidad sure is lovely ! Thanks for the report !!

(Oh , quit screwing around and wear Bug dope - those Je-jente bites will still be itchy come Fall .)

D.~

Whale-ista - 6-22-2014 at 08:17 PM

Ten days and 1100 miles after leaving San Diego I am in Cabo Pulmo, just in time to enjoy the World Cup games, good food and cold beer.

I'm staying in a small casita, "casa de Chuparosas", in the center of town. Since I had a hummingbird nest back in San Diego that produced 6 chicks this year, I feel right at home!

The next door homeowner/property manager agrees this years early heat is over the top oppressive, so I don't feel so bad about giving up on the idea of camping. It is just too insanely hot! Perhaps if I had a different camper- mine works best in cooler temps.

So, poodle and I are relaxing, reading, beach walking and enjoying the tropics.

Major accomplishments of the trip so far: I've learned how to find some interesting, off the beaten path places and people and not pass out from heat exhaustion. I've also had some remarkably tasty food at La Ribera and Pulmo restaurants. And now I know why I packed an axe: to crack coconuts, of course!

Yvette has learned to stay under the table and away from the big dogs during their bar fights, which happened during the US-Portugal World Cup match this afternoon, at the ex-pat bar. (There is a limit on how many big dogs can fit safely into one bar. It was exceeded and all kinds of canine hell broke loose)

So, on balance, this trip has been a good learning experience for both of us.

For more Information on where I'm staying see:
http://cabopulmocasas.com/newsite/?page_id=131

[Edited on 6-23-2014 by Whale-ista]

Sea turtle, reef fish, olas, wind and....rain?!?!?

Whale-ista - 6-23-2014 at 01:30 PM

Up early, walked w/poodle to beach and arranged to go out on snorkel trip. Dark clouds and wind were approaching, so wanted an early trip.

Left beach at 830, with family from Moneterrey. Parents stayed on board, 2 of 3 adult daughters went with me into water. We saw lots of reef fish- perricos, needlefish etc., but visibility was only so-so due to dark clouds.

The first spot OK, second had a lovely sea turtle eating on the bottom. It surfaced and swam nearby just as sun broke thru. Managed to take some good underwater photos- I'll try to send to BajaBlanca for posting if I can work out the wifi issues.

Normally would have had a 3rd spot, deeper off the reef, but the conditions were not good: visibility poor with clouds, and large, rolling olas. They made the boat rock and roll and was a bit dangerous for exit/entry.

So... satisfecho con tortuga! Back to beach by 10:30- good way to start the day!

Now: windy, and... I think I smell rain! A miracle!!!