BajaNomad

SD to Pulmo

tyguypb - 1-13-2015 at 04:07 PM

left SD with my Lady on the 26th with a very open mind but a rough agenda. We got as far south as cabo pulmo, and made it back home safe on the 11th. pretty much 4 of the 16 days rained almost all day including the last day from Bahia de Los Angeles to the Border which was nothing short of nerve racking.

Packed up the Suby with all the camping/cooking/fishing/snorkeling/kayaking gear plus the two yaks on the roof racks.

1st night was at los Jardines in San Quintin, a wonderful spot as most of u know. Next day was off to Campo Rene which had been a long time in the making. The estero coyote exceeded expectations so we stayed 3 nights for two full days of kayak exploration and fishing from about 9-4:30 each day with far to many caught and released Corvina, corbina, grouper and bass of varying sizes. We only kept one corvina each day for that evenings dinner.

Side note about campo rene: Pardon the gripe, But on a Sunday night the camp, which from what i gather is now owned/operated by the local co-op in Abre, was having a fiesta for the "enforcement" of the Co-op. The guys who watch over the managed marine waters protecting against Poachers. The Party was going till well past 11 PM blasting there beloved Mariachi music. That is all well and dandy, believe me i would be a hypocrite to be upset about keeping others awake due to noise and partying. BUT! as i lay awake in my tent i watched a man from the party walk into our Palapa area after scouting to make sure there was no one watching. (he was wrong) He shone a light and tried to steal a nice thermos. I bolted out of my tent to retrieve my belongings and he tried to throw it behind my car and lie to me about what he was doing rifling through our belongings. when i picked it up and showed it to him he tried telling me he needed hot water for his baby.... There was no hot water, the restaurant was closed and after about 5 minutes of awkward guilty protest he trundled off into the darkness.

Then we headed to Bahia concepcion and spent 2 nights, including NYE camped out at Santispac. one full day of kayaking took us around isla pitayah, blanca over to Guapa and then over to the beautiful beach on isla Coyote. then we headed back. Some fantastic birding and big schools of common dolphin.

This is when 7-9 days of 20-30 kt winds were predicted so the Next day in a hungover stupor we meandered down to scout a campground south of Loreto and ended up ducking out of the wind at Juncalito. we Awakened the next morning and hiked canon Tabor/steinbeck canyon. some light rock climbing/scrambling got us up to the paintings on the big overhanging boulder about 2 hours to get there due to searching for the best "trail" and only 50 mins to get back. That afternoon we drove down and spent the Night in La Paz at a hotel and took our only shower of the trip haha.

As the sun shone we headed to have a look around at Playa tecelote and Balandra before confirming our suspicions, Spiteful hateful winds drove us further down to Cabo Pulmo where we camped at Los Frailes in a bit of a strange Gringo encampment (i use that word knowing full well i am one). Bunch of folks in campers squatting on a Mexicans land not paying for it, but when the proprietor came Sunday morning with his fresh produce for a well renowned Farmers market, the silver haired RV warriors came from miles around and shamelessly pillaged the produce. it was quite the spectacle to behold but i was happy for the local farmer/land owner who was fetching a much better price for his product. I digress... We awakened and spent the morning snorkeling and free diving in the Lee of the big headlands and after that decided to cut our losses and get the F@#K out of the Wind tunnel that was the Sea of Cortez.

We beat a hasty retreat spent that night in Juncalito then drove to San Ignacio and showed up at Oficina INAH just in time to set up a 3 day Mule trip out of Sierra Del San Francisco into the Canyon Santa Teresa for some EPIC cave painting viewing. (I will admit that this would have NEVER happened without some kindness from a complete stranger in Juncalito. A fellow by the name of Colin Garland let us stay on his property for two nights and let us borrow a baja adventure book which is where we read of this town of San Francisco and thus the idea was born)

that night we camped at the little oasis in the town of San Ignacio that is run by that incredibly nice man whose name is escaping me. the Hurricane did some serious damage to that poor fellows campground since my last stay in March. Full of anticipation the lady and i departed for the Mountains that morning for what would be the coolest part of our trip in both of our opinions. we met our guide named Pepe who i affectionately likened to the Baja Malboro Man. My girlfriend and i can converse in spanish relatively proficiently but my god this man spoke the most incomprehensible ranchero spanish i have ever heard. This made for a strong language barrier but a very authentic experience. Pepe was the man, born and raised as a ranchero in SF he had lived his whole life in the mountains and his knowledge of the area illustrated this. For all we could gather his family had been there since ever since. One more note on Pepe, i am pretty sure he was part borrego because for being probably 2.5 times my senior he moved with the speed and grace of the local chivas... Anyhoo, we went to cuevas Pintada, Aquilar, Musica, boca de San Julio and Flecha. it sprinkled the middle day and rained almost our entire mule ride out of the canyon. but it was an unexpected and unforgettable trip. All said and done with permits, guide fees, animals, and a substantial tip the trip was under 300 dollars. that did not include the food we brought and cooked for ourselves and Pepe.

That evening we drove back to Campo Rene and capped off the day with a sunset kayak surfing session after consuming a healthy amount of Tequila and beer. We spent another two nights at Rene and another full day of kayaking and fishing in the estero. We drove from there to Bahia/La Gringa, spent the one night in my beloved Bahia De Los Angeles and then headed back to the border in the persistent precipitation.

Thanks for reading my novel, sorry for the stream of consciousness writing style and lack of revision. i have tons of pictures but i lack the technological intellect required to post them, Help?

David K - 1-13-2015 at 04:19 PM

Thank you for taking the time to share your trip with us. It is all great to let us know what happened to you, and it can only help make things better... Such as the palapa invasion and near-robbery at Campo Rene during the co-op's fiesta. One Nomad friend is very close to the fishing co-op people at Abreojos, and perhaps the word will get to them to make sure stealing from anyone is not good for the future business there.

I am happy to assist with your photo posting if the instructions in the how to post (1st post in the thread) are not easy for you: http://forums.bajanomad.com/viewthread.php?tid=65085

u2u, email, or even phone call me for help!

Tomas Tierra - 1-13-2015 at 04:36 PM

Ty,

Cool read! Thank you for the write up..

How was the last bit of the road up to SF de La Sierra?? My last trip up there was 2013... We got a little beat up

TT

David K - 1-13-2015 at 04:52 PM

Quote: Originally posted by Tomas Tierra  
Ty,

Cool read! Thank you for the write up..

How was the last bit of the road up to SF de La Sierra?? My last trip up there was 2013... We got a little beat up

TT


Yes, how many miles does the pavement run up the mountain?

tyguypb - 1-13-2015 at 05:51 PM

i will look at creating an account and attempting this photo business.

The pavement goes for 30 KM and then comes to an abrupt end. i think its some 7-14 more km from there. The dirt road is pretty rough but if i can make it in my Subaru Outback as the conservative risk averse human that i am, any truck should fare fine.

David, have you ever taken the other trip out of SF over to the San Gregorio ranch/canyon area? i am very keen to return and do San Gregorio, they made it sound quite appealing

tyguypb - 1-13-2015 at 06:59 PM

here are some photos from the trip if i can figure this out...

















tyguypb - 1-13-2015 at 07:04 PM

mas..













David K - 1-13-2015 at 07:08 PM

EDIT: I see you got the photos up, great! Only they didn't get sized correctly at upload... 800 pixels is full Nomad width. Small worry now, let's just enjoy these until they are fixed! Thank you.
Quote: Originally posted by tyguypb  
i will look at creating an account and attempting this photo business.

The pavement goes for 30 KM and then comes to an abrupt end. i think its some 7-14 more km from there. The dirt road is pretty rough but if i can make it in my Subaru Outback as the conservative risk averse human that i am, any truck should fare fine.

David, have you ever taken the other trip out of SF over to the San Gregorio ranch/canyon area? i am very keen to return and do San Gregorio, they made it sound quite appealing


The AAA map says it is 23.2 miles up to San Francisco de la Sierra. 30 kms. is 18.6 miles, leaving 4.6 miles of dirt (provided the AAA map is correct), that's almost 8 kms... in the range you say!

Photos of the first American explorers of the painted caves in the Sierra San Francisco are in this site: http://choralpepper.com

I have not (yet) been up there to see those painted sites... several Nomads have, however! The film 'Bajo California' is an excellent way to experience this part of Baja from your home. The entire movie is now on You Tube.



[Edited on 1-14-2015 by David K]

shari - 1-13-2015 at 07:17 PM

Great trip report Ty and wonderful pics too. I am glad you got to go to La Sierra which is probably the coolest thing EVER! It is interesting about the dialect from SF de la Sierra...super hard to understand even for bilingual people. I hope to do that trip at the end of March after whale season.

David K - 1-13-2015 at 07:25 PM

They speak ARCE up there! :light:

BajaBlanca - 1-13-2015 at 07:54 PM

Wonderful report.

Sorry about campo rene.....

I cant wait to see those cave paintings one day.

tyguypb

captkw - 1-13-2015 at 08:08 PM

Hola,,Thanks for a HONEST report !! and glad you had a safe trip !! got your U2U's and will reply as time allows.....your busting the midnight crook is/was the way to GO !!! and more folks need to be on the lookout and a watchfuil eye 24/7 anywhere on this chunk of spinnin rock !! infared night lights go a long way !! K&T:cool:

AndyP - 1-13-2015 at 10:17 PM

Thanks for a great trip report! I'd love to do that mule trip someday, what a cool experience.

bajarich - 1-14-2015 at 11:37 PM

Quote: Originally posted by tyguypb  
Spiteful hateful winds drove us further down to Cabo Pulmo where we camped at Los Frailes in a bit of a strange Gringo encampment (i use that word knowing full well i am one). Bunch of folks in campers squatting on a Mexicans land not paying for it, but when the proprietor came Sunday morning with his fresh produce for a well renowned Farmers market, the silver haired RV warriors came from miles around and shamelessly pillaged the produce. it was quite the spectacle to behold but i was happy for the local farmer/land owner who was fetching a much better price for his product.


Did you know that the people camped at Los Frailes are camped on Mexican government land i.e. the aroyo and are not squatting on anyones land? Did you also know that the vendors who sell the produce there are there exactly because the gringos are there? Those gringos provide a lot of money to the local economy and have done a lot for the local ranchers, many spending time there since before you were born. By the way, how much did you pay to camp at Los Frailes or did you just "squat" there like the other gringos? Maybe you should find out what you are talking about before putting other Nomads down.

paranewbi - 1-15-2015 at 07:17 AM

Thanks for the awesome report...love seeing photos of places I've been to and wish I could be at this minute...well every minute.
Wife and I have camped at Los Frailes as 'guests', at least that's how we felt as there is a regular group that camps in the arroyo that welcomed us warmly. They guided us to an area next to a hand built oven near the beach because there was no room in the arroyo itself. During the time we were there we were checked on almost daily to see if we needed anything or just to chat. Great people even if most were Canucks!
You look like a mellow couple Tyguypb and don't take bajarich's givin' you a lesson on 'what you are talking about' as the aggression it seems to be stated with. For myself, I didn't become aware that other Nomads were camped in the arroyo and that's probably because I don't wear that chip on my shoulder for others to take care and not put me down :)

Floatflyer - 1-15-2015 at 09:34 AM

"You look like a mellow couple Tyguypb and don't take bajarich's givin' you a lesson on 'what you are talking about' as the aggression it seems to be stated with. For myself, I didn't become aware that other Nomads were camped in the arroyo and that's probably because I don't wear that chip on my shoulder for others to take care and not put me down".

Huh? This doesn't seem to be a Nomads issue. To characterize those that are camping in Los Failes on federal land as "squatting on Mex land and not paying" seems rather critical of this long time practice.

AND, to say that the "silver haired RV warriors - - shamelessly pillaged the produce" is nothing but an attack on people that are buying the produce, exactly as the farmer hopes they would.

Best to have an accurate portrayal of a situation before accusations, IMO.

David K - 1-15-2015 at 01:20 PM

bajarich, I missed where any 'Nomads' were being "put down"???

Not all Gringos are Nomads, ... and not all Nomads are Gringos.

Thanks to Ty for sharing his vacation... !

tyguypb - 1-15-2015 at 01:55 PM


Tranquilo amigo,

first of all i want to apologize as i seem to have unintentionally offended some folks with my story telling and use of colorful language. I am sorry that you though i was "putting other nomads down" that was certainly now my intent, and i apologize thoroughly if that is how you felt.

i don't know if i was "in the aroyo" we were at the base of a hill, not in the wash area with the main group of large campers. As the locals folks camped out in this particular location told us, which is all i am basing my claim upon, was that this particular area of land was owned by a local mexican fellow. This place had a "rule board" that was banning people with dogs from camping there. i'm not sure if we are talking about the same place.

And yes, i did mention that it was good/beneficial for the local Rancheros and the population of caucasians camping in the region as they were both enjoying a mutually beneficial relationship. a sort of symbiosis if you will...

I hope you will not take my use of colorful language as the defamation of anyone's Character. just making a more amusing story. lo siento

please lower your guns, i come in peace

I'm not much for internet quarreling so if that is what becomes of this paricular thread, this will be my last post.



[Edited on 1-15-2015 by tyguypb]

Paulina - 1-15-2015 at 10:52 PM

I appreciated your trip report, specially the mule portion of your adventure. It's on my list to do. Thank you for posting!

P>*)))>{

bajarich - 1-15-2015 at 11:04 PM

Sorry I got so defensive. You were in the tree area which is different from the arroyo. The land belongs to the ranch, but by no means are people just squatting there, that was a poor choice of words. The rule about dogs came from Big Vern who has since passed away. I'm sorry to take issue with your post, and I don't want to discourage you from posting in the future. I hope you continue to enjoy Baja as much as I have over the years.

paranewbi - 1-16-2015 at 07:56 AM

Bajarich...if I may, please give some clarification for me.

The arroyo I am familiar with was close to the fish camp at Los Frailes. It was a small turn off the dirt road and the Trailers were angled in on both sides of the arroyo. This would be the north end of the bay near the govt. beach area that had outhouses raised over sand piles that emptied on the top of the sand piles. There was a small rustic oven built for the woman who use to make bread in it to sell to the residents of the arroyo. Does this sound familiar?

My question is of your notation that 'Big Vern' had passed away. We became familiar with a large man that was known as 'The Mayor' who was one of the people who came by most often and was extremely nice and caring towards us...even told us of a community well (not so good water) just beyond the fish camp a ways.

When we departed I thanked him for his kindness and expressed that I hoped we would meet again one day. This would probably be the reason I would go to Las Frailes some day...I would hope that I have not missed that opportunity.
Thanks

Genecag - 1-16-2015 at 09:07 AM

Very nice report and cave paintings look amazing!

wilderone - 1-16-2015 at 10:29 AM

Great report - great photos. Thanks.

Floatflyer - 1-16-2015 at 02:16 PM

To satisfy my own curiosity I drove to Los Frailes this morning and talked to several campers. Friends that I know that have camped there for numerous years, and by there I mean in the arroyo, pay nothing for their usage of federal property in the arroyo.

I next went into the trees, north of the trash bin, and talked to several people there. I had my dog with me and asked if was ok if she was with me. They said yes but that others tried to keep dogs from another area nearby, especially males. Again I was told that nobody pays for the usage of this area BUT this property was owned by the ranch family at the head of the arroyo, Marron/Fiol. The family no longer lives there full time as they have moved into town for educating their children. Campers continue to store some of their equipment during the summers at the ranch for a fee. The ranch puts on the occasional dinner and the many campers support these dinners partly out of thanks for the generosity of the family.

It appears that several produce vendors visit Los Frailes for the sole purpose of selling vegetables, a good thing for all concerned.

I believe that this is all accurate or close. In the past the Cabo Pulmo Marine Park employees have asked/directed campers to not park their boats near the water. A good friend had a dead man he had buried to assist him in getting his boat out of the water confiscated by the Park's people. All in all it seems that there isn't any big controversies going on and this remains a beautiful location for those that want to be away from civilization a bit.

bajarich - 1-16-2015 at 11:05 PM

paranewbi, Yes it was Big Vern who was know as the Mayor of the trees, and yes, sad to say he did pass last Feb, or March while we were camped in the arroyo. He became very weak, I think it was congestive heart failure, and was flown back to Canada to his family where he passed. He was a very nice fellow, and seemed to be the one who put together the dinners up at Rancho San Antonio.

floatflyer, thanks for your research on Los Frailes, What you discovered is in line with what I know. I'm headed down to Los Frailes my self, crossing next week.

[Edited on 1-17-2015 by bajarich]