BajaNomad

Punta Chivato

Rossman - 5-23-2015 at 04:23 PM

I am planning a trip from Asuncion to Punta Chivato for 2 or 3 days of fishing. Does anyone have first hand knowledge of camping spots in the area, preferably close to a beach where I can launch my kayak.

Thanks

Ross

Russ - 5-23-2015 at 04:57 PM

No improved camp sites. The "camping beach" is a good location but no water or other facilities and our restaurant/hotel is closed.Fishing can be outstanding in June thru the summer early and late just out side the hammer head/the light tower. Wind can be an issue any where so be prepared. Ask any resident about other camp & fishing spots.

Rossman - 5-23-2015 at 05:33 PM

Quote: Originally posted by Russ  
No improved camp sites. The "camping beach" is a good location but no water or other facilities and our restaurant/hotel is closed.Fishing can be outstanding in June thru the summer early and late just out side the hammer head/the light tower. Wind can be an issue any where so be prepared. Ask any resident about other camp & fishing spots.


Thanks Russ

Another quick question. Is the turn off from Mex 1 signed or should I look for a Km marker?

Udo - 5-23-2015 at 06:18 PM

I'll put it this way, Ross...when I went there last year, there was a sign, but you never know when someone crashes into the signs in Baja.
The road is about 6 miles from Mex 1.
You'll be amazed at the difference in the water between BA and the lake-like water in Punta Chivato.
Send a U2 to Pescador on fishing tips for the area. He spends a lot of time there.

Russ - 5-23-2015 at 06:24 PM

There is the Hotel sign or km156 if it's still there. Look for Palo Verde and the last road on the south end that's concrete and go straight.

Cliffy - 5-23-2015 at 10:24 PM

gO SLOW iT WASN'T GRADED TOO WELL LAST TIME i WAS THERE BUT IT IS AN INTERESTING PLACE
Oh well had the caps on sorry!

chuckie - 5-23-2015 at 11:28 PM

Awful road....if you can call it that

Russ - 5-24-2015 at 05:58 AM

Chuckie, Always with the positive comments....
Actually the road is in good condition as of the last 4 months. It's a dirt road so there are the pot holes and some wash board areas. It gets dragged once a week. The bad thing today is that the owner of the camp beach has no interest in maintaining a camp area so no improvements. It's a shame because many of the residents came off the camp beach and we did a lot of business with the old hotel. But it would take a care taker to maintain and prevent vandalism.. Oh, and collect fees.

chuckie - 5-24-2015 at 06:55 AM

We went in there last year to the sale...my wife said she would rather have a root canal than do it again...My comment is positive....Its a terrible road....I am positive of that

Pescador - 5-24-2015 at 06:58 AM

Once you make it to Chivato, you have a lot of possibilities in terms of camping areas. The old campground might be a possibility, but if you can handle the "bad road" in there, you will find a lot of roads heading out in various directions that lead to real gems of isolated beaches and camping areas. There is a back road, accesible by two wheel drive that runs from San Bruno to Chivato and there are lots of areas that might be of interest there. San Marcos Tierra is an estuary just south of San Marcos Island that is a really pretty area. Just depends on how civilized or how primitive you want.

chuckie - 5-24-2015 at 07:38 AM

Great place,once ya get there...we go up in the boat now and then....

David K - 5-24-2015 at 07:51 AM

If you deflate your tires about 1/3 (ie. 30 psi to 20 psi) the comfort level and puncture resistance is greatly increased. For sand driving, about 1/2 of street pressure is a good place to start.

Russ - 5-24-2015 at 08:24 AM

DK you're right as usual. There is a tire shop a block north of the turn off for PC. Convenient to air up.
Pescador, Knows the area well and that's great advice to go explore the back roads. Keep a camera handy so you can show us where you have been. Google Earth shows the better roads if you want to plan ahead. And it's FREE:bounce:

David K - 5-24-2015 at 08:36 AM

I haven't been to Punta Chivato, by land, since 1973... Just might have to explore those beaches Pescador describes this summer on our Baja Sur trip?

Rossman - 5-24-2015 at 11:02 AM

Quote: Originally posted by Pescador  
Once you make it to Chivato, you have a lot of possibilities in terms of camping areas. The old campground might be a possibility, but if you can handle the "bad road" in there, you will find a lot of roads heading out in various directions that lead to real gems of isolated beaches and camping areas. There is a back road, accesible by two wheel drive that runs from San Bruno to Chivato and there are lots of areas that might be of interest there. San Marcos Tierra is an estuary just south of San Marcos Island that is a really pretty area. Just depends on how civilized or how primitive you want.


Thank you sir. That is great information. I have was actually looking at that road South from San Bruno. I'm sure I can find a gem of a spot to camp along there. Primitive is fine for me. Thanks again.

ahhh Punta Chivato....

carlosg - 5-24-2015 at 05:23 PM

Hi Ross,

My family and I have camped at the camping beach a couple of times in the past three years, this is a great spot for snorkeling and just relaxing (my avatar photo is of a sunrise on that spot) actually this beach has the nicest and finest sand in the area, there's a beach just south of there -the camping beach- between the light beacon and the hotel where you can find scallops and chocolatas as well. If you do come to Punta Chivato don't pass the opportunity of eating at Julia's: she's a great cook and serves killer fresh seafood and handmade flour tortillas, she also sells beer, drinking water, sodas and good heavy fire wood. We always enter thru Palo Verde at the south end of "town": there's a concrete paved street that leads to the dirt road to Punta Chivato. The little store next to the road right on a corner just before the turn off is a good place to get supplies, it's a CONASUPO Store so the prices are really good, there's another store around the concrete loop (prices are slightly higher) where you can buy beer, ice, even meat and gas if needed. We love this place, the first time we camped out there we got hit by the remnants of hurricane Miriam, it took our camp down so we went and recovered at the Orchard in Mulege and then returned for another ten days to the camping beach... the following year we got hit by a sand storm and that was an experience to say the least, it lasted most of the day and it was howling and hauling a... Next time we would like to try Ensenada el Muerto, I think you can get there from the dirt road as it turns around the north end of the landing strip. Here's a good map that can be helpful: http://wikimapia.org/#lang=en&lat=27.080908&lon=-111... the beaches by Estero San Marcos are also really nice and isolated, just remember to NOT ever leave your camp unattended, it's better to be careful than sorry!!!!

[Edited on 5-25-2015 by carlosg]

Rossman - 5-24-2015 at 06:05 PM

just remember to NOT ever leave your camp unattended, it's better to be careful than sorry!!!!

Hmmmmm that could be a problem since I am traveling alone and plan to kayak fish.

Russ - 5-24-2015 at 06:05 PM

carlosg, I haven't seen the site you posted before and the imagery is much better than I get on Google Earth. I enhanced the screen shot I took to try to bring even more detail up.

Really an informative post. I often forget about Julia's restaurant. She's a good cook and if you provide fresh supplies she'll do you right or tell her what you want in advance and her son, Carlos, will bring them in each day.
here's another map


[Edited on 5-25-2015 by Russ]

Pompano - 5-24-2015 at 06:06 PM

Quote: Originally posted by Pescador  
Once you make it to Chivato, you have a lot of possibilities in terms of camping areas. The old campground might be a possibility, but if you can handle the "bad road" in there, you will find a lot of roads heading out in various directions that lead to real gems of isolated beaches and camping areas. There is a back road, accesible by two wheel drive that runs from San Bruno to Chivato and there are lots of areas that might be of interest there. San Marcos Tierra is an estuary just south of San Marcos Island that is a really pretty area. Just depends on how civilized or how primitive you want.


Rossman, the area that Pescador describes is indeed a good area to camp. Quite a few of us went there often in the late 70's and throughout the '80's..leaving from the old Casa Grande at Punta Chivato. I even took my 31' Minnie Winnie 2WD motor home on the various desert trails. No services at all...you bring it in and also bring it out. We'd camp for several days on ocassion and hunted ducks, quail,and doves in the area, making blinds out of seashell and rock piles. There was then quite a series of old aqueducts constructed by an early French endeavor from San Bruno..long since gone. Sugar cane, wheat, olives, a vineyard...all gone, too. A very pretty and interesting area. Dump trucks used to come over the same trails to collect the pretty shells and rock to be used for house decor, driveways, pathways, etc....expensive loads.

I have seen other campers there from my boat while fishing the area, but not for a few years now. Today I would not leave anything unattended that you don't want to go missing. Sorry, but that's how it is in today's Baja...not like old times anymore.

p.s. Weather always affects these Baja trails, so get current info before traveling. Things get washed out every so often.


Hope you have fun and Good Camping!

[Edited on 5-25-2015 by Pompano]

Russ - 5-24-2015 at 06:35 PM

Pompano, You'd not know the San Marcos "estuary" today. The salt cedars you probably camped under are gone and are part of the "harbor" mouth. All salt water now. The water table that feed the artesian wells are almost dried up and there is little vegetation along the banks as it used to be. After '95 the series of hurricanes really ripped it up and opened the mouth.


Here is the back today




[Edited on 5-25-2015 by Russ]

Pompano - 5-24-2015 at 06:41 PM

Wow, Russ, that's a totally different scene today from what it was before the storms. I'll have to scronge around in my photo files to find something to compare it to. Thanks for the look!

carlosg - 5-24-2015 at 08:42 PM

Quote: Originally posted by Russ  
carlosg, I haven't seen the site you posted before and the imagery is much better than I get on Google Earth. I enhanced the screen shot I took to try to bring even more detail up.

Really an informative post. I often forget about Julia's restaurant. She's a good cook and if you provide fresh supplies she'll do you right or tell her what you want in advance and her son, Carlos, will bring them in each day.
here's another map


[Edited on 5-25-2015 by Russ]



Hi Russ,

Actually Carlos and his helpers (Simon the water truck driver and another guy) took us snorkeling for scallops and chocolatas over there; Paco would come over every day to see if we needed anything. These are great people, I try and keep in touch with them now and then. Julia is a really nice lady.

What is the second map image, is it from a GPS?

This is what the Estero looked like at the East end by the beach two years ago:

BN_P1010197.jpg - 171kB


...we took a cuad drive over there from Punta Ranchero

[Edited on 5-25-2015 by carlosg]

Russ - 5-25-2015 at 07:05 AM

It seems the nature of things to fill in the mouth. But this time it looks like a harbor entrance. Even the beach route along the beach north to the "flat rocks" is flooded at high tide and you have to find your way inland. Yes, the second map image is from an old GPS screen shot. Here is a recent shot ... you can see several tracks across the mouth of the estuary and a lot of other track.

Pescador - 5-25-2015 at 07:54 AM

For the most part, I would not be afraid to camp in most of those areas but a couple of things will help you. Do not set up camp that is completely visible from the road, make sure everything is locked up and secure when you go out to fish. Loose things generally have legs and somehow walk away, but you will probably run in to local people on the roads rather than outlaws from other areas. There is a new development just out of San Bruno called Costa Tranquilo and just past that area is a single tree, a protected cove, and a great camping site looking at San Marcos Island. Just make sure to pick up after yourself and blend in. Closer to Muertos, there is more development and consequently more traffic. They started a new restaurant out on Dolphin Cove that quit after the road got washed out in Odile Hurricane.

Hook - 5-25-2015 at 08:36 AM

Boy, I'd love to see a CURRENT shot of the old camping beach out by the light tower. That used to be my go-to camp in Baja from the early 80s to the late 90s, when the ejido was still running it. I think I met Bill Alvarado in the last year he was running the show out there.

We'd anchor our small boats inside the finger reef on the north side of the hammerhead or, when our boats got larger, on the south side. Pretty darn protected.

I do remember a few nights when T-storms from the mainland would roll over the sea and cause lots of havoc on the beach and anchorage. A sand storm there is very unpleasant.

I have boated in there in the past couple years and it looked largely the same, except the outhouses were gone. The old cinderblock shower stalls were still there, IIRC. Great solar showers, camping, outhouses and even delivery of dry goods/produce/meats/water, etc., by enterprising locals.

Those are really my fondest memories of boondocking in Mexico. It was great swapping stories with all the other people in camp, sharing various foods we had brought down, various alcohols and other substances. :o . In May/June there could be 20 separate camps out there........but it never seemed too crowded. Just more fun.

Someone brought oysters from SQ on their way down (often ME!), others brought WSB or lobsters from the fish market in Ensenada. Every 3-4 days, you'd up and head into SR or Mulege for reprovisioning, especially fuel for the boats, ice and, of course, beer. There were no beer sales (outside of the hotel bar) out there until, I believe, the guy who began selling/leasing lots on Shell Beach put in a little Conasupo near the entrance to the hotel.

Great memories, trolling south into the rising sun at sunrise; looking for paddies, after having made macks at Muertos. My personal best 37 lb. dorado was caught in about '95, after finding a paddy about 20 miles out and flylining a mack near it. That mark stood until I caught a 58 lb dorado over here around 2012-3, cant remember which.

One other memory; seeing what looked like sea snakes hanging around the sand areas right off the camping beach. They really did not look like eels; they would remain in place, suspended vertically in the water, just hanging out. We gave them a wide berth, knowing how poisonous most sea snakes can be. Anyone else ever see those and ever get a positive ID on them?

[Edited on 5-25-2015 by Hook]

Jan, 2012

tripledigitken - 5-25-2015 at 08:51 AM

Hook,

These are the most recent I have.










Hook - 5-25-2015 at 09:04 AM

Still a great looking area. I much preferred this as a camp to the camps inside Concepcion, as they were just too far to run in and out of, for fishing. And the jake brakes were always heard along Concepcion. Chivato is close to the offshore fishing and there was decent YT fishing around the islas Santa Ines in the winter. Not as good as at San Marcos, though.

carlosg - 5-25-2015 at 09:49 AM

Quote: Originally posted by Hook  
Boy, I'd love to see a CURRENT shot of the old camping beach out by the light tower. That used to be my go-to camp in Baja from the early 80s to the late 90s, when the ejido was still running it. I think I met Bill Alvarado in the last year he was running the show out there.

[Edited on 5-25-2015 by Hook]


March, 2014...

Flying over camping beach on my friend Ray's plane...




_BN_P1010299.jpg - 187kB




...you can see the remains of the outhouses and showers on lower left corner and the other below the second house on the hill...


_BN_P1010302.jpg - 191kB



...beach between light beacon and hotel and the other outhouse by the road away from the beach...



_BN_P1010303.jpg - 185kB




...late September, 2013...


...under our truck after the sandstorm there was about 4-6 inches of sand swept away by the wind, all the way down to the hard surface of the beach...



_BN_20130927_171139.jpg - 228kB



..our camp after the storm, the bottom right corner is our fire pit covered by sand, our camp stood up good to the wind, we spent all day inside our tent playing monopoly, playing music, eating and enjoying some tecates...


_BN_20130927_153128.jpg - 197kB

Hook - 5-25-2015 at 10:47 AM

I remember being holed up in one of my backpacking tents for a sandstorm there. It held up just fine in winds that were maybe 30-40kts.

But the no-see-um netting filtered out everything but this extremely fine dust/grit that was awful to breathe in. We bailed the next day, in case the winds returned. I learned that day that there are better locations along that beach that dont get so much blowing sand. But most were already taken.

I had what looked like the exact same shade structure. It was one of only two structures that made it through, standing. The structure was made by a company called Jenkins; I dont see them around anymore. I had the canvas bags you fill with sand and anchor to the corners using a big S-hook and some rope to the top of the bags. They are great structures; I still have mine. But I generally bring an EZUP now, and peel the top off if the winds come up or I leave camp. Much easier to set up and store in the vehicle while on the road.

Rossman - 5-25-2015 at 10:54 AM

Great information guys. Those latest pictures really have me stoked to explore the area. Think I'll head over there next Monday for 2 or 3 days if I can find some propane bottles for my Colman stove. Nothing here in Asuncion, hopefully Vizcaino.

carlosg - 5-25-2015 at 12:03 PM

Quote: Originally posted by Hook  
I remember being holed up in one of my backpacking tents for a sandstorm there. It held up just fine in winds that were maybe 30-40kts.

But the no-see-um netting filtered out everything but this extremely fine dust/grit that was awful to breathe in. We bailed the next day, in case the winds returned. I learned that day that there are better locations along that beach that dont get so much blowing sand. But most were already taken.

I had what looked like the exact same shade structure. It was one of only two structures that made it through, standing. The structure was made by a company called Jenkins; I dont see them around anymore. I had the canvas bags you fill with sand and anchor to the corners using a big S-hook and some rope to the top of the bags. They are great structures; I still have mine. But I generally bring an EZUP now, and peel the top off if the winds come up or I leave camp. Much easier to set up and store in the vehicle while on the road.


This is a 14'x10' shade, on the bottom of each leg there's a circular "foot pad" screwed on, I bury the leg in about 12"-18" in the sand and this kept the structure fine during the storm, I bought the whole thing in Chula Vista at: http://marcoscanopiesinc.com/, the no-see-um netting on our Kodiak tent filtered out even the finest sand and kept us comfy during the storm....

willyAirstream - 5-25-2015 at 08:44 PM

Rossman, coming monday is good. If you come earlier, be aware there is an off road race thru the PC area , pre running this week for a sunday, may 31st race.
Coleman propane bottles are available at Albas tienda in the plaza in mulege. There probably in SR also.

Rossman - 5-26-2015 at 02:26 AM

Quote: Originally posted by willyAirstream  
Rossman, coming monday is good. If you come earlier, be aware there is an off road race thru the PC area , pre running this week for a sunday, may 31st race.
Coleman propane bottles are available at Albas tienda in the plaza in mulege. There probably in SR also.


Thanks for the info. I figured I could find the propane in Viz, SI or SR on the way down. Good to know there is a spot in M too.

Russ - 5-26-2015 at 05:49 AM

If not I have one I'll give you.
carlosg, Great photos! I took 3 for future use if that's okay?

willyAirstream - 5-26-2015 at 07:21 AM

Yeah, I forgot to mention, these fotos are terrific!

Hook - 5-26-2015 at 08:31 AM

If you havent left the states, those propane bottles are WAY cheaper up there.

I dont think I've found a better everyday, low price than Wally's two bottles for around 5.50. They are often more than double that over here.

I once went the route with the 20 lb bottle, the distribution post and all the hosing for the various propane devices. Too much hassle, unless you are staying put in one place for AT LEAST a week.

I'll pay the extra for the convenience of the 16.4 oz bottles for the camp stove and the wife's little catalytic heater. I've gone LEDs for light.

msteve1014 - 5-26-2015 at 09:30 AM

The little adapters to refill small tanks from the 20 lb. tanks work fine. After a few times some small tank valves will leak, then you toss them.

Russ - 5-26-2015 at 10:54 AM

I Have a one pound refillable tank for camping. Works great.

http://www.amazon.com/Worthington-281149-1-Gallon-Cylinder-P...


Rossman - 5-26-2015 at 02:20 PM

I have a similar tank but 5 lbs. Unfortunately the local propane distributor in Asuncion won't fill one less than 20 lbs and have been unable to find a spot in Vizcaino either. If I could get that refilled my propane problems would be over for a long time.

Russ - 5-26-2015 at 03:48 PM

The guy that comes around here in the truck won't fill them either but I got the Santa Rosalia facility to fill it but only after it was empty??

Pacifico - 5-28-2015 at 08:12 AM

Quote: Originally posted by Hook  

One other memory; seeing what looked like sea snakes hanging around the sand areas right off the camping beach. They really did not look like eels; they would remain in place, suspended vertically in the water, just hanging out. We gave them a wide berth, knowing how poisonous most sea snakes can be. Anyone else ever see those and ever get a positive ID on them?

[Edited on 5-25-2015 by Hook]


This was my "go to" camping spot for many years as well; 84-94ish... So many great memories there! I too, remember what I thought were spotted eels in the sand there. They were about 18-24" long.

Pompano - 5-28-2015 at 08:27 AM

Quote: Originally posted by Pacifico  
Quote: Originally posted by Hook  

One other memory; seeing what looked like sea snakes hanging around the sand areas right off the camping beach. They really did not look like eels; they would remain in place, suspended vertically in the water, just hanging out. We gave them a wide berth, knowing how poisonous most sea snakes can be. Anyone else ever see those and ever get a positive ID on them?

[Edited on 5-25-2015 by Hook]


This was my "go to" camping spot for many years as well; 84-94ish... So many great memories there! I too, remember what I thought were spotted eels in the sand there. They were about 18-24" long.


What you fellows saw were most likely harmless 'garden eels'. We used to see them often in the shallows between Pta. Chivato and the Sta. Ines Islands. They were many and in groups. A marine biologist staying with us made the ID when we took him out to spot sea snakes (which we did not find...thankfully?)



1640_IVANYI-WELCOME-TO-GARDEN-web.jpg - 15kB

carlosg - 5-28-2015 at 10:47 AM

Quote: Originally posted by Pompano  
Quote: Originally posted by Pacifico  
Quote: Originally posted by Hook  

One other memory; seeing what looked like sea snakes hanging around the sand areas right off the camping beach. They really did not look like eels; they would remain in place, suspended vertically in the water, just hanging out. We gave them a wide berth, knowing how poisonous most sea snakes can be. Anyone else ever see those and ever get a positive ID on them?

[Edited on 5-25-2015 by Hook]


This was my "go to" camping spot for many years as well; 84-94ish... So many great memories there! I too, remember what I thought were spotted eels in the sand there. They were about 18-24" long.


What you fellows saw were most likely harmless 'garden eels'. We used to see them often in the shallows between Pta. Chivato and the Sta. Ines Islands. They were many and in groups. A marine biologist staying with us made the ID when we took him out to spot sea snakes (which we did not find...thankfully?)



We met an American biologist ("El Cuervo") last Thanksgiving at El Coyote beach last year, he comes and camps and does research, he loves to teach any children that may be around the area: he sets up little aquariums on the beach for the children to learn and observe...

Pompano - 5-28-2015 at 11:03 AM

Quote: Originally posted by carlosg  


We met an American biologist ("El Cuervo") last Thanksgiving at El Coyote beach last year, he comes and camps and does research, he loves to teach any children that may be around the area: he sets up little aquariums on the beach for the children to learn and observe...


Carlos, sounds like you met our old Coyote Bay friend, The Raven Man. Quite a nice character who has been doing research on our two ravens at Coyote for many years. He calls them Coy and Ote (Ki and Otie). I think I first met him around 1987 or so...when I saw this head with a telephoto-camera hunched over and cautiously creeping along my seawall towards the ravens sitting in my tree. What a fun sight that was!

Here's his camper over at the bay's camping beach.


Hook - 5-28-2015 at 01:22 PM

Thanks for solving this, Roger. They certainly look like the garden eel pics I see on Wiki.