BajaNomad

Advice for first trip

JohnM99 - 10-21-2015 at 07:08 AM

Hi
My wife and I are making our first road trip from San Diego to San Jose del Cabo in 10 days. We recently bought a place in San Jose, and are taking a car to leave there for future trips (Honda Pilot 4WD). We have been reading a lot, but no substitute for experience, so thought I would ask a couple of questions.

We are in no hurry, maybe plan to take 5 days or so. We thought we would mostly go on Hwy 1, but some side trips OK but we are not really not offroaders. We thought we would drive to Catavina first day, then go a bit slower - some days only a couple of hours drive perhaps, other days up to 6 - a couple of questions -

If we were thinking of no more than 6 hours driving in one day, realistically, how far is that? 300 miles? 200? what is your advice?

Between Catavina and San Jose, what are your favorite overnight stops? Bahia de los Angeles? Mulege? Loreto? La Paz? (we have only been to Los Cabos before).

Really looking forward to this - thanks in advance for your advice.

John

woody with a view - 10-21-2015 at 07:14 AM

catavina to BdeLA is less than 4 hours so don't drive too fast if you're intent on driving 6 hours a day!:lol: stay at costa del sol. from there i'll let others chime in.

JohnM99 - 10-21-2015 at 07:23 AM

We are happy to drive less than 6 hours - just not much more. I understand Catavina to Bahia de los Angeles would be a relatively short day - but then we have some time to look around.

Also - would you make reservations ahead? Or just play it by ear and look for a place to stay when you get there? We kind of thought a reservation for the first night or two would be good - smaller towns - if we stay in bigger places later, easier to get a place perhaps.

We are just hoping to get to know something about the Baja, do some photography, and see some of the oddest places/things, and nicest places. Later on in whale season, we would drive back up to Scammon's lagoon from San Jose some time (but too early for the whales right now).

So - hard far do you normally get in 6 hours? I am guessing 300 miles would be a bit optimistic....

bajaguy - 10-21-2015 at 07:25 AM

Bahia de Los Angeles - Costa del Sol

Guerrero Negro - Salt works tour - Terra Sal motel

Bahia Asuncion - Sherri's place

San Ignacio

woody with a view - 10-21-2015 at 07:46 AM

don't worry about a rez. we were just in town and it was deserted, but with the Baja1000 coming that will change. better yet, make the rez. figure 50mph as a baseline. in the central desert you can go 80mph for stretches.

David K - 10-21-2015 at 08:15 AM

What the others said above + in San Ignacio, the La Huerta motel (just past the mission, on the right, set back in a big field, little super market at entrance to field. La Huerta would be good for a reservation, but when is the question: hotel.lahuertabcs@outlook.es

Now, about missions... that is my big Baja connection lately, the Old Missions of Baja & Alta California, 1697-1834. If you will drive the 22 mile graded dirt road to San Borja (road is from the Bahia de los Angeles highway, you wil see the furthest north stone mission in Baja. Founded in 1762, the stone church was completed in 1801. It is a marvelous sight in the center of Baja! After touring the mission (José or his adult sons may provide the tour), you can continue on west to Hwy. 1 (also 22 miles) to continue on south to Guerrero Negro.


San Francisco de Borja Adac, 1762

L.A. Bay area sites and road to and out from San Borja shown:



San Ignacio mission faces the town plaza, it is less than 2 miles on a paved side road off Hwy. 1, DO NOT PASS BY without a drop into San Ignacio for a look (if you decide not to stay there that night). The mission was founded in 1728! Completion of the lava stone cathedral came in 1786.

San Ignacio, 1728

Baja is a land full of missions, they are artifacts that can connect you by touch to the past when travel to Baja from Europe was equivalent to a trip to Mars from Earth, today! The mission at Mulegé and Loreto are along your route to San José del Cabo, which, of course, is the site of the 12th California mission, which gives that town the name. Founded in 1730, relocated at least four times, closed for 20 years and then reopened until 1840.

Santa Rosalía de Mulegé, 1705


Loreto, 1697

A 22 mile paved highway goes from Loreto up to the second California mission at San Javier, and is well worth a visit to the finest preserved Jesuit church in California!



San Francisco Javier Biaundó, 1699 (church constructed from 1744-1758).

Spanish Missions Map.jpg - 110kB

[Edited on 10-21-2015 by David K]

TMW - 10-21-2015 at 08:23 AM

Visiting the missions is a must see since you will be taking your time. Visit DavidKs web site for info on them and where they are, well worth it. LA Bay is also worth a trip, a lot of history.

bkbend - 10-21-2015 at 08:43 AM

For your first drive down Hwy 1, Catavina is a long haul unless you're beginning in the dark and not stopping much. It's probably the slowest piece of the road with lots of towns, trucks, local buses and mountain curves. A more restful day one would be to stop in San Quintin or El Rosario. After El Rosario you can start making better time and Bahia de los Angeles is about 5 hours, Guerrero Negro 6.5 hrs.

David K - 10-21-2015 at 09:02 AM

Correct, Cataviña is 300 miles from Tijuana, a long first day. El Rosario in 225 miles south, has the nicest motel along the highway (Baja Cactus, next to Pemex station), and makes the next day to Bahia de los Angeles a breeze... so you can have breakfast before you leave town.

woody with a view - 10-21-2015 at 09:21 AM

the time will just have changed in 10 days time. Catavina is about 7 hours from the border.

Udo - 10-21-2015 at 09:46 AM

My wife Jana prefers Mama Espinoza's "CALDO DE JAIBA", crab soup for breakfast over anything else.
Mama Espinoza's (restaurant) is two doors down from Baja Cactus.
They also have a great souvenir shop complete with products made from marble, plus a great historical photo essay on the walls prom previous Baja racers.
Quote: Originally posted by David K  
... so you can have breakfast before you leave town.

Bob53 - 10-21-2015 at 10:02 AM

I usually stay in San Quintin and then drive to Bahia de los Angeles the next day. San Quintin is about the half way point between San Diego and Bahia. I usually stay at Hotel Mision Santa Maria. It is nice and is right on the beach. The food there is ok but I choose to eat at Jardines, one of the best restaurants in town. Costa del Sol in Bahia is nice and has good food but it is right in the middle of town. Choose one of the older rooms because the new rooms have very uncomfortable beds.

Bob53 - 10-21-2015 at 10:06 AM

Quote: Originally posted by woody with a view  
don't worry about a rez. we were just in town and it was deserted, but with the Baja1000 coming that will change. better yet, make the rez.

The Baja1000 does not go through L.A. Bay this year so reservations are probably not necessary.

JohnM99 - 10-21-2015 at 12:13 PM

Wow - thank you all for such good advice! What a great forum!

I had wondered if Catavina might be a bit far, so we will stop a little sooner the first night. I was attracted to the idea of seeing what that landscape would be like at night. Will definitely look around there for some photography.

Any advice about favorite places in the south, and where you would stop? We have never been to La Paz - and plan to drive on the older road Hwy 1 between La Paz and San Jose, leaving the 4 lane.

woody with a view - 10-21-2015 at 12:26 PM

Quote: Originally posted by Bob53  
Quote: Originally posted by woody with a view  
don't worry about a rez. we were just in town and it was deserted, but with the Baja1000 coming that will change. better yet, make the rez.

The Baja1000 does not go through L.A. Bay this year so reservations are probably not necessary.


i know, but there will be ALOT of people vacationing for the event nearby, and "HEY, let's go to BdeLA for a couple of days."

edit: and then i realized in 10 days the B1K is still a week or two in the future.....

[Edited on 10-21-2015 by woody with a view]

JohnM99 - 10-21-2015 at 12:56 PM

Which places do you like in B de LA? I see several are popular on Trip Advisor - and it seems Los Vientos has new owners....

bajaguy - 10-21-2015 at 01:03 PM

Costa del Sol. Nice rooms and good food
Quote: Originally posted by JohnM99  
Which places do you like in B de LA? I see several are popular on Trip Advisor - and it seems Los Vientos has new owners....


[Edited on 10-21-2015 by bajaguy]

Bob53 - 10-21-2015 at 01:27 PM

I agree. Costa del Sol is nice and clean. Air conditioned, not that you need that on your trip, and the food is good.

motoged - 10-21-2015 at 01:37 PM

BoLA....Costa del Sol #1

Victoria, the owner/concierge/hostess is a good soul and being in town is more of an asset than out in the lonely wind at Los Vientos...

Costa del Sol:






Los Vientos:









Martyman - 10-21-2015 at 01:47 PM

I would recommend doing some camping. Adventures happen when you are out in the boonies with a campfire at night. Not too many adventures sitting in a hotel room.
Also, I tend not to stop at obvious gringo hangouts. We're in Mexico and if you want to experience Baja (not the Baja) ya gotta get a leetle dirty.

AndyP - 10-21-2015 at 04:34 PM

To echo Maryman: rushing isn't too fun or even safe, but I personally would do what I could to ensure spending the night in Catavina, which is an incredible place. I love camping out at Rancho Santa Ynez for a few dollars. Walk across the arroyo and wander around taking pictures at sunset and sunrise, experience the incredible stillness and smells and plant life and stars, sit around a campfire...

Everyone has different goals, but even a genuine 5 star hotel in El Rosario would bum me out knowing what was available a couple hours down the road. For me Baja is about wilderness, and Catavina is a uniquely accessible example of it.

I've camped at the border and left early in the morning to make Catavina for my first night, or if you have time maybe make it your second night? Just an idea.

AKgringo - 10-21-2015 at 04:36 PM

Quote: Originally posted by Martyman  
I would recommend doing some camping. Adventures happen when you are out in the boonies with a campfire at night. Not too many adventures sitting in a hotel room.
Also, I tend not to stop at obvious gringo hangouts. We're in Mexico and if you want to experience Baja (not the Baja) ya gotta get a leetle dirty.


My last trip to BoLA, I slept in my car with my dog. Is that dirty enough?

Early in the evening, over the loud Mariachi music from a few campsites away, I heard some noise next to my car. It was a coyote digging through my stuff, and close enough to slam him with my car door.....if I really wanted to open it for a coyote!

JohnM99 - 10-21-2015 at 04:41 PM

Thanks again - Costa del Sol looks good. Thank you for the photos.

Weather is slowly turning to winter rain here (Victoria BC) - good time to head south.

Another question if I may - how is the toll road Tijuana/Ensenada? All OK to drive on now I think?

John

Bajahowodd - 10-21-2015 at 04:57 PM

Getting back to your first destination, we have for years driven from Orange County to San Quintin and stayed a a lovely family run hotel called Jardines De Baja. Amazing verdant gardens that attract tons of birds. And they have a really good restaurant adjacent run by the hotel owners daughter and her husband.

We usually stop heading South for breakfast at Ed's Baja's Best. It has zero curb appeal, but is really nice inside.

From there we head to San Ignacio and stop at Hotel La Huerta, and drive down for breakfast to Santa Rosalia to eat at El Muelle which is two blocks above the church and a block to the left.

Then on to Loreto, where we we usually stay at family owned Hacienda Suites, which has a complimentary breakfast. Tons of good restaurants in and around Loreto for dinner. We often go to Domingo's place which is right next door to the hotel, but there is really great buzz for a place out on the highway which name escapes me at the moment. (Sabroso??)

Usually stay at Club El Moro on the East end of the malecon in La Paz. They also have a complimentary breakfast and it it an easy walk toward many restaurants closer in, such as Tailhunter.

David K - 10-21-2015 at 05:06 PM

The Tijuana to Ensenada Toll Highway (Mexico #1-D) is just fine (until the next landslide)! It is signed and called "Scenic Road" (not toll road), to beckon more tourists to use it, perhaps?

Los Barriles

AKgringo - 10-21-2015 at 05:26 PM

I think that you would enjoy checking out Los Barriles since you will be driving right by it. I can not recommend a place to stay, since I camp when I am there, but I like the ambiance of the area and the small town feel.

If the timing doesn't work out on the way down, it is a short day trip north after you get to Los Cabos.

tripledigitken - 10-21-2015 at 07:32 PM

Quote: Originally posted by soulpatch  
.... easy drive to Bola the next morning and getting ready for an amazing vista when you crest the last hill..... breathtaking.



Couldn't agree more, one of THE classic vistas of Baja!

woody with a view - 10-21-2015 at 07:35 PM

^^^Yep^^^

edit: and then that first Pacifico Ballena once you get into town!

[Edited on 10-22-2015 by woody with a view]

MMc - 10-21-2015 at 07:59 PM

This is your trip not ours do what you want.
Try staying in the wine county the first night then Cativina the next.
Catavina is very cool at night we love to hike up the canyons at night as you get away from the light the stars just get closer.

Bay of LA is also cool.

Bahia Asuncion or San Ignacio Both fun but very different, I'd go out of my way to Asuncion just for the people.

From there south there are really cool places so go a play it by ear, see something you like, stay there. there is a lot to see.

From Loreto to la paz is 4 to 5 hours
.
This is your trip, do not get so wrapped up in our agendas. Go have fun!



Quote: Originally posted by JohnM99  
Wow - thank you all for such good advice! What a great forum!

I had wondered if Catavina might be a bit far, so we will stop a little sooner the first night. I was attracted to the idea of seeing what that landscape would be like at night. Will definitely look around there for some photography.

Any advice about favorite places in the south, and where you would stop? We have never been to La Paz - and plan to drive on the older road Hwy 1 between La Paz and San Jose, leaving the 4 lane.

David K - 10-21-2015 at 09:52 PM

This will be just the first drive... it will create a desire to have MANY more! "So much Baja... So little time!"

redhilltown - 10-21-2015 at 11:38 PM

Another vote for Catavina the first day and then relax at BOLA and Costa del Sol the second...and check out the mission at San Borja. Or Jardines in San Quintin...both hotel and restaurant...or the wine country...I always cross at Tecate...oh wait...and then...:o

Ya can't go wrong!!! Have fun.

JohnM99 - 10-22-2015 at 07:27 AM

I have traveled a lot, but all planned/booked/scheduled and it is a big change to just go somewhere and see how it goes. Hard to "let go" of the urge to plan everything to the last detail.

That said these comments are all so helpful. Very kind of all of you to take the time to post.

Re Los Barriles - that is one of the reasons we are taking our car to leave in Mexico - so it is easier to do trips from San Jose. Have never enjoyed renting cars down there.

Looking forward to getting surprised.


BajaBlanca - 10-22-2015 at 07:37 AM

even though it is a proper town, I recommend a night in Ensenada! there are plenty of hotels (we stay at the el cortez because we like the bougainvillea restaurant attached to it - the BEST filet mignon with mushroom sauce in Baja)


BAJA INN HOTEL EL CORTEZ
Paseo Calle Primera #1089 & Av. Castillo
Ensenada, B.C. 22800, Mexico
Tel: 01152 (646) 178-2307
Fax: 01152 (646) 178-3904
From U.S.: 1-800-303-2684
Within Mexico: 01-800-026-6999
E-mail: info@bajainn.com
Capacity: 75 rooms & 7 junior suites




....the Baja inn - EL CORTEZ is on the main drag for tourist shops and there is one in particular that has been there over 20 years, can't remember the name offhand but will edit when I do. The owner buys art and artifacts from all over Mexico. We have done extensive travel on the mainland and this store encompasses it all.


and you are cordially invited to visit US! we live in la bocana and since BAHIA ASUNCION is a must for its people and seafood and incredible beach......we are only 1.5 hours south and very remote. we also have a great beach restaurant and cabanyas on the beach and a couple of B&B's (I am partial to ours http://www.labocanahotel.com) but scott and kim are amazing hosts too.

from us, san Ignacio is an oasis that should not be missed. there is the mission and there is a recommended hotel called LA HUERTA, head up the road past the Mission church at the main square. La Huerta hotel will be on your right.

From there, head to Mulege, explore or should you want to spend the night, here is a link



http://www.clementinemulege.com



a bit further south is Loreto - one of the cutest quaintest towns. There are so many places to stay and we have tried several. One link is:


http://www.cococabanasloreto.com


From Loreto we head straight to LA PAZA, so I have no more recommendations.


Have a wonderful and safe trip.

Entrada1270 - 10-22-2015 at 08:34 AM

Hi, I sent you a U2U with our stop and hotel suggestions, all the way to La Paz. Enjoy the trip.

MulegeAL - 10-22-2015 at 08:53 AM

If you and your gal are more morning-people than night, consider leaving El Rosario early for photo-ops south through Catavina early in the morning. The vistas and photo ops south from El Rosario at low light angle can be incredible. This will take time, esp Catavina area. Take one of the many dirt turns off into the boulder fields and wander around with your camera.

And, this helps avoid driving at night, better to have the road ahead get lighter than darker, esp considering you haven't done hwy 1 for a while and the days are getting shorter. Stop early, decompress a bit then go wander off somewhere; have fun!

Bajahowodd - 10-22-2015 at 03:42 PM

One last thing you may wish to consider. You have stated that you will be driving from La Paz to San Jose on Mex1. There are some very hilly and curvy sections before you get to Los Barriles that add time vs. doing the four lane through Todos Santos. However, if you want to avoid a crap load of slow traffic and traffic lights, I recommend that you turn in to the SJD airport and hop on the toll road that will leave you off in San Jose non-stop (except for the toll booth at the end).

BajaBlanca - 10-22-2015 at 05:45 PM

bajahowodd - I think the restaurant you were trying to remember in your first post was SABOR.

It is off the road a bit and very delicious.

mtgoat666 - 10-22-2015 at 06:56 PM

Why do first timers always ask the Internet for advice?
My first time in Mexico was done on the fly, no planning, just went, had only a cooler, sleeping bags and tent, and money for food and beer, did not even have a passport!
The goddess Nike said it best: just do it!

JohnM99 - 10-22-2015 at 09:31 PM

"Why do first timers always ask the Internet for advice?"

Actually, pretty funny. Going on a trip to experience new things, but still addicted to trying to plan the details....!!

Hard to change habits.... will try!

David K - 10-22-2015 at 10:03 PM

The Internet is for INFORMATION, not just gossiping and complaining!
Finding out what other like or dislike about Baja places can help improve your chances for a good time. Many do not have time to waste or unlimited resources. Keep asking, I say!

bajabuddha - 10-22-2015 at 10:26 PM

John, don't worry about the old goat. One thing about him is his posts are always consistent. His life is probably so miserable now all he can do is throw rocks any more.

Remember, the only 'dumb' question is the one you don't ask. My advice is, once on the road in Baja, KEEP ASKING. All my early travels were pre-internet (how did we ever survive!) and at each campsite and watering hole, it was the 'chat' that gave new clues and info. Don't set an itinerary; keep your black book handy, but open with pencil-in-hand.

Buena Suerte, y buen viaje. Bienvenidos a Baja!

JohnM99 - 10-23-2015 at 07:18 AM

I don't take any offence at the comment - mtgoat666 makes a valid point - there is a lot of value in being open to unplanned ideas. And, as bajabuddha says, how did we ever travel in the old days. It is amazing how travel has changed in just 20 years.

This will be the first time since the 70s that I have gone somewhere with nobody knowing when I will get there - including me.... let's see if I can remember how to be spontaneous!

I think we will try to start early the first day, and get to Catavina for the first night then wander around after that....

As long as we don't get lost in Tijuana and disappear......