BajaNomad

Cost to build a house on the east cape (?)

imlost - 12-2-2015 at 03:07 PM

I'm considering building a house in a more remote area of the east cape - somewhere in the Cabo Pulmo National Park. Can you give me an idea of the cost to build a 2 or 3 bedroom, 2 bath house. It will need to be off-grid, of course. A cost per sq/ft is fine. Thanks!

monoloco - 12-2-2015 at 07:57 PM

$100-125 a sq ft. depending on level of finish.

pelone - 12-2-2015 at 09:16 PM

The above estimate is very optimistic----your desired location is remote. It is not likely that your builder will be from Cabo Pulmo. The access to materials may be a challenge as will an available and experienced work crew. It can be done but there will be hurdles. You may want to start brushing up on your communication skills in Spanish and have a realistic time line.

Paulclark - 12-2-2015 at 10:42 PM

I build in the area and the rule of thumb I give is $140/sq.ft. plus solar system. There are far too many variables to be specific, but the Cabo Pulmo Bungalows style will be less and an average American style home will be about this price.


Cancamo - 12-3-2015 at 08:30 AM

Check your U2U inbox.

cost

captkw - 12-3-2015 at 09:46 AM

LOL, we started building are first house on the east cape in 1980 and a 2nd in 92....for starters,,, all water trucks break down,dont show and are shaky at best... also half way thru all things can change overnight... if you go into this with a SET plan you are only kidding yourself...BUT,, there is nothing wrong with starting with a plan...that way you can make GOD laugh !!

Captkw

Howard - 12-3-2015 at 10:02 AM

It would be interesting if we bred our avatars together and see what we would have. :biggrin:

El Jefe - 12-3-2015 at 11:24 AM

Ten years ago we had our house built between Pulmo and San Jose and the cost came to at least 200 dollars a square foot including the solar system. Then we did a lot of finish work ourselves including kitchen cabinets and interior painting etc. Our house is well built to mostly USA standards. Milguard windows came from the states. Well worth the extra expense. All our neighbors with locally made windows have leaks and other troubles. We also found a great deal on hardwood doors that I brought down and finished myself. No termites in those babies.

The most challenging part of the process is to get a realistic bid. Most folks end up paying more than the original bid amount. It is common to get two thirds through the job only to have your contractor tell you that he needs more money to finish the job. I was fortunate to pick the right guy. His bid seemed high at first blush, but he got the job done on time and for what he said it would cost. He does not work out your way, however.

ncampion - 12-3-2015 at 11:24 AM

Keep in mind the extra cost of being off grid. A good solar system can cost $20 - $40K if you install yourself. I don't recommend skimping on the power as you will soon regret it and spend twice as much later, not to mention the mental trauma of not having enough power. Also a "legal" septic system will cost another $5 - 6K. Building in a remote area is much more challenging and expensive than an "in town" house.

Alm - 12-3-2015 at 12:08 PM

Since those 20-40K solar systems built decades ago, prices of solar panels dropped tenfold. It now costs about $2-2.5 per watt if you install yourself. This includes panels, controller, cables - everything but labor. 3000W=6K-7K.

I agree with others that building ANYTHING in Mexico is a royal pain in the ars. Nothing ever goes by the plan. Contractors leave for a lunch break and show up 2 days later. Temporary plumbing without glue or proper compression fittings on a huge few thousand liters water tank, fittings held together with rusty wire and shoelaces - then the water pressure blows it to pieces as soon as those idiots open the tap. Jacks of all trades. Nobody knows how to do anything right. No right tools, materials, or training.

[Edited on 12-3-2015 by Alm]

bajaguy - 12-3-2015 at 12:32 PM

I recommend that if you decide to build, you have copies of the plans and materials list and some basic books on home construction and are on site everyday........if you are not, who know what you will end up with

Required reading for anyone who is thinking of building in Mexico:

http://www.amazon.com/God-Mr-Gomez-Jack-Smith/dp/1883792681

durrelllrobert - 12-3-2015 at 12:54 PM

Also, if you are considering concrete block construction consider this: an 8 foot high wall built using 16" x *" x 12" blocks reqires 8 blocks for every 16" and at around $1 each thats $8 + the rebar and mortar, and labor for each 16" whereas metal studs at 16" on center will cost around $5 and go up alot faster with less than 50% of the labor cost.

That's why you see almost all the new commercial buildings using these and I see lots of truck loads of metal studs heading south out of Ensenada.

The other advantage of these is that 10 8 foot metal studs weighs about the same as 1 douglas fir wooden stud so you can probably haul all that you need in a single trip using a pickup with an 8 foot bed. In addition to the light weight the do not warp, twist or split when nailing and termites do not eat them.

All of the house plans I have drawn the the last 2 years are completely framed with metal and the exterior covered with fibergalass impregnated plaster board (DensGlass at Home Depot) that you just apply a thin coat of stucco over. Other advantages are that they come with openings to run your electric wiring and plumbing through (no need to drill holes) and due to their supperior strength metal 2x4s at 16" O.C. can be used as ceiling joists and rafters in leiu of wooden 2x6s. Send me a U2U if you want more information.

Terry28 - 12-3-2015 at 02:26 PM

Now that is excellent info....Thanks Bob..I may have a project in the Bay of LA that this will be very useful for...

hookemup - 12-3-2015 at 02:53 PM

Check U2U inbox

monoloco - 12-3-2015 at 03:12 PM

Quote: Originally posted by durrelllrobert  
Also, if you are considering concrete block construction consider this: an 8 foot high wall built using 16" x *" x 12" blocks reqires 8 blocks for every 16" and at around $1 each thats $8 + the rebar and mortar, and labor for each 16" whereas metal studs at 16" on center will cost around $5 and go up alot faster with less than 50% of the labor cost.

That's why you see almost all the new commercial buildings using these and I see lots of truck loads of metal studs heading south out of Ensenada.

The other advantage of these is that 10 8 foot metal studs weighs about the same as 1 douglas fir wooden stud so you can probably haul all that you need in a single trip using a pickup with an 8 foot bed. In addition to the light weight the do not warp, twist or split when nailing and termites do not eat them.

All of the house plans I have drawn the the last 2 years are completely framed with metal and the exterior covered with fibergalass impregnated plaster board (DensGlass at Home Depot) that you just apply a thin coat of stucco over. Other advantages are that they come with openings to run your electric wiring and plumbing through (no need to drill holes) and due to their supperior strength metal 2x4s at 16" O.C. can be used as ceiling joists and rafters in leiu of wooden 2x6s. Send me a U2U if you want more information.
A friend built a beautiful house in Todos Santos using steel stud construction. Unfortunately, it was almost completely destroyed in hurricane Odile. I don't know if I'd recommend that type of construction on the East Cape.



















Metal studs

AKgringo - 12-3-2015 at 03:42 PM

I am a retired carpenter, and have worked with metal studs for years in commercial applications in Alaska. I prefer working with good straight lumber, but that isn't always an option, especially in Mexico.

I would consider using metal myself if I was building a new home, but only with an experienced designer and contractor. The problems show up in the fastening systems used, and skill of the workers. Load bearing and seismic/wind shear strength is easier to pull off with wood as well.

Good luck with the project, and keep on researching!

ncampion - 12-3-2015 at 05:10 PM

Quote: Originally posted by Alm  
Since those 20-40K solar systems built decades ago, prices of solar panels dropped tenfold. It now costs about $2-2.5 per watt if you install yourself. This includes panels, controller, cables - everything but labor. 3000W=6K-7K.

[Edited on 12-3-2015 by Alm]


Actually quality panels can be bought in US for below $1.00/watt, however that is not the cost of the system. My battery alone cost $13,000, plus inverters, charge controllers, AC and DC electrical panels with disconnects and breakers all add up. I'm not talking about a "camper" system that can run a few light bulbs, if you want to be comfortable in a decent sized home you need a competent electrical system.

greta-inbaja - 12-3-2015 at 06:47 PM

Hi, we are in process right now 10 km south of Cabo Pulmo. Check your U2.

ncampion

captkw - 12-3-2015 at 07:05 PM

13,000 dll battery ???? Do Tell !! I think We All would like to know more about that ????????:wow:

Paulclark - 12-3-2015 at 07:09 PM

Steel studs don't work in a hurricane----look at all the destroyed hotels which used steel studs and went through Odile. I have built with steel studs and it was the biggest construction mistake I made. Designed by an engineer for 140 MPH winds and the cladding was stripped off -- Densglass sucks.
The latest solar systems are economical and a good system for 1,500 sq. ft. house, with electric fridge and normal conveniences, except AC cost $15,000 complete with good batteries which should last 10 years.

Currently there are two construction options that are commonly used here. One is 3D panel which are strong and provide insulation and are very flexible or concrete block (post and beam) using pre-stressed joists and insulation or cast in place roofs with Styrofoam insulation.

Alm - 12-3-2015 at 08:35 PM

Quote: Originally posted by ncampion  

Actually quality panels can be bought in US for below $1.00/watt, however that is not the cost of the system. My battery alone cost $13,000, plus inverters, charge controllers, AC and DC electrical panels with disconnects and breakers all add up. I'm not talking about a "camper" system that can run a few light bulbs, if you want to be comfortable in a decent sized home you need a competent electrical system.

Solar system can't be competent. It a user that can - or can't :)... Or - installer.

It doesn't matter - camper or home. Total cost of solar system parts is $2 per watt. This doesn't include battery bank, this is a separate issue. You need a battery bank no matter whether you are on solar or on generator. The size of battery bank depends on both solar system size and usage pattern, i.e. how much energy you are going to use daily. The bigger the bank - the cheaper (usually) per AH of capacity, 'cause you can have bigger L16 rather than small T105 etc.

Having a bank too big is about same bad as having it too small, because you not only have a higher initial cost and replacement cost, but also a higher self-discharge current, thus losing more energy daily, and (possibly) shorter battery life 'cause solar wouldn't be able to charge it fully every time, and 90% full is not "good enough". I've seen people with 4*L16 and mere 400W solar on the roof, didn't ask why. They think (or somebody told them) that this is the bank they need, so ... let them be.

[Edited on 12-4-2015 by Alm]

ncampion - 12-4-2015 at 07:45 AM

Quote: Originally posted by captkw  
13,000 dll battery ???? Do Tell !! I think We All would like to know more about that ????????:wow:


A HUP Solar One battery. A single battery, 48 volts, 1150 ah. The only battery for solar applications that will actually do the job and last 10 years. No parallel connections, designed for solar. Pricey but worth it.

http://hupsolarone.com/

ncampion - 12-4-2015 at 07:50 AM

Quote: Originally posted by Alm  
Quote: Originally posted by ncampion  

Actually quality panels can be bought in US for below $1.00/watt, however that is not the cost of the system. My battery alone cost $13,000, plus inverters, charge controllers, AC and DC electrical panels with disconnects and breakers all add up. I'm not talking about a "camper" system that can run a few light bulbs, if you want to be comfortable in a decent sized home you need a competent electrical system.

Solar system can't be competent. It a user that can - or can't :)... Or - installer.

It doesn't matter - camper or home. Total cost of solar system parts is $2 per watt. This doesn't include battery bank, this is a separate issue. You need a battery bank no matter whether you are on solar or on generator. The size of battery bank depends on both solar system size and usage pattern, i.e. how much energy you are going to use daily. The bigger the bank - the cheaper (usually) per AH of capacity, 'cause you can have bigger L16 rather than small T105 etc.

Having a bank too big is about same bad as having it too small, because you not only have a higher initial cost and replacement cost, but also a higher self-discharge current, thus losing more energy daily, and (possibly) shorter battery life 'cause solar wouldn't be able to charge it fully every time, and 90% full is not "good enough". I've seen people with 4*L16 and mere 400W solar on the roof, didn't ask why. They think (or somebody told them) that this is the bank they need, so ... let them be.

[Edited on 12-4-2015 by Alm]


A properly designed solar power system must be balance, starting with projected power consumption. BTW whatever you figure you will use, multiply it by 1.5. I have lived off grid for 6 years with a system I designed and installed. I have all the power I need including AC in the summer time, without generator running. You do have to be mindful of power usage but otherwise a properly sized and balanced system can be transparent.

BTW, L 16s and T 105s are for RVs not homes.

[Edited on 12-4-2015 by ncampion]

ncampion

captkw - 12-4-2015 at 10:16 AM

thanks for the link...So, from what I read on their site its just a large flooded batt with old tech..for 13K you can get a LOT of 8D's and Nothing (so far) will beat fresh batterys..But I am more than open to learning more about these batts and why you think they are the way to go.....The first thing we do in designing a system is a "energy audit" and charge cap. and storage cap. RMS for a home/yacht.....So are u happy as a clam with this battery and what have you found to be the benefits ?? thanks for sharing this info and have a GREAT Day!!

Alm - 12-4-2015 at 10:50 AM

Quote: Originally posted by captkw  
thanks for the link...So, from what I read on their site its just a large flooded batt with old tech..for 13K you can get a LOT of 8D's and Nothing (so far) will beat fresh batterys..

Yep. $12 per 1 AH of capacity is way too much. D8 would work just fine. L16, T105 would work too, be it home or RV, at the cost ~$1 per 1 AH and average life 5-6 years.

Neither L16 nor T105 are marketed as RV battery, btw. T105 are normally referred to as Golfcart Battery, and L16 are more for industrial use. But people use them in offgrid homes. After having used AGM for some time, I'm not sure it was worth it, compared to cheaper flooded L16 or T105 that I see stacked in a "battery shack" of some houses .

A house for winter-only use, without A/C, say, 2000W solar and 2000 AH bank of multiple flooded batteries- total under $10K.
Energy audit is a must. Things like washer-drier or a walk-in fridge may throw the balance off.

[Edited on 12-4-2015 by Alm]

durrelllrobert - 12-4-2015 at 10:52 AM

Quote: Originally posted by Cancamo  
Check your U2U inbox.

Thanks for your interest. I sent reply.

durrelllrobert - 12-4-2015 at 11:06 AM

Quote: Originally posted by monoloco  
Quote: Originally posted by durrelllrobert  
Also, if you are considering concrete block construction consider this: an 8 foot high wall built using 16" x *" x 12" blocks reqires 8 blocks for every 16" and at around $1 each thats $8 + the rebar and mortar, and labor for each 16" whereas metal studs at 16" on center will cost around $5 and go up alot faster with less than 50% of the labor cost.

That's why you see almost all the new commercial buildings using these and I see lots of truck loads of metal studs heading south out of Ensenada.

The other advantage of these is that 10 8 foot metal studs weighs about the same as 1 douglas fir wooden stud so you can probably haul all that you need in a single trip using a pickup with an 8 foot bed. In addition to the light weight the do not warp, twist or split when nailing and termites do not eat them.

All of the house plans I have drawn the the last 2 years are completely framed with metal and the exterior covered with fibergalass impregnated plaster board (DensGlass at Home Depot) that you just apply a thin coat of stucco over. Other advantages are that they come with openings to run your electric wiring and plumbing through (no need to drill holes) and due to their supperior strength metal 2x4s at 16" O.C. can be used as ceiling joists and rafters in leiu of wooden 2x6s. Send me a U2U if you want more information.
A friend built a beautiful house in Todos Santos using steel stud construction. Unfortunately, it was almost completely destroyed in hurricane Odile. I don't know if I'd recommend that type of construction on the East Cape.





















By " almost completely destroyed" Iwould guess that you mean the roof was blown off and the same thing would have occured with a wood framed or concrete block house IF THE RAFTERS ARE NOT PROPERLY CONNECTED TO TOP OF THE WALLS (Using Simpson hurricane ties). Walls framed using metal studs are rated with a higher windshear than wooden stud construction is. The only other thing that a hurricane could do is to lift the whole house off it's foundation because the walls were not properly anchored (using the same Simpson tie downs used for wood construction).

durrelllrobert - 12-4-2015 at 11:21 AM

Quote: Originally posted by AKgringo  
I am a retired carpenter, and have worked with metal studs for years in commercial applications in Alaska. I prefer working with good straight lumber, but that isn't always an option, especially in Mexico.

I would consider using metal myself if I was building a new home, but only with an experienced designer and contractor. The problems show up in the fastening systems used, and skill of the workers. Load bearing and seismic/wind shear strength is easier to pull off with wood as well.

Good luck with the project, and keep on researching!


In regards to wind shear see my repy to Monoloco below and with regards to seismic shear this was my U2U reponse to Stickers: Even in earthquake prone california the required shear panels resistance comes from the plywood sheathing, applied to the interior or exterior, not the studs themeselves. When framing with wodden studs hard to find 3x4s are used aound each shear panel perimiter to provided more area for staged 8d nailing at 6" OC without splitting. With metal studs you just stagger the self tapping screws at 6" OC directly into a single metal stud. As far as shear panel tie downs to the foundation, the same Simpson hardware used for wood studs can be used on metal studs.
Proper sized self tapping screws hav a geater shear and tensile strngth tan 16d nails and they do not pull out. You are correct in that a certain amount of traing is required for the guy operating the screw gun but he need not be as skilled as a journeyman carpenter. The contractor that is currently building a house to my set of plans hesitated because he said that he cut his finger both times he worked with metal studs before. Wonder how many times he hit his finger with a hammer? and better keep him away fro a Skill saw.

durrelllrobert - 12-4-2015 at 01:19 PM

Quote: Originally posted by Paulclark  
Steel studs don't work in a hurricane----look at all the destroyed hotels which used steel studs and went through Odile. I have built with steel studs and it was the biggest construction mistake I made. Designed by an engineer for 140 MPH winds and the cladding was stripped off -- Densglass sucks.
The latest solar systems are economical and a good system for 1,500 sq. ft. house, with electric fridge and normal conveniences, except AC cost $15,000 complete with good batteries which should last 10 years.

Currently there are two construction options that are commonly used here. One is 3D panel which are strong and provide insulation and are very flexible or concrete block (post and beam) using pre-stressed joists and insulation or cast in place roofs with Styrofoam insulation.


My reply to Imlost stated:"Also, if you are considering concrete block construction consider this" and was only meant as an additional option.

I,m sorry for your mistake. However, if the structure was Engineered to withstand 140 mph winds metal stud framing will withstand those IF THE CONTRACTOR BUILDS IT IN COMPLIANCE WITH ALL THE SPECIFICATIONS, especially all of the fastening (Simpson hold downs to the foundation and hurricane ties to the roof structure.)

With regard to DensGlass and similar sheathing products The specified self tapping screws and spacing must be used without breaking the outer fiberglass surface. the head on those screws is nearly double the diameter of a 16d nail and will not pull out of a metal stud the way a nail will pull out of a wood stud.

With respect to "all the destroyed hotels which used steel studs" every pos Oldie picture I have seen shows the the metal framing survived in tact and only the windows were blown out (same as a concrete structure) and the unknown type of exterior sheathing was sucked off? making for an easy repair:







By the way, were any of the ICS 3-D PANEL SYSTEM houses down there damaged by Oldie?

imlost - 12-4-2015 at 01:37 PM

Thanks for the responses everyone. There's some great information offered here and I have a lot of thinking to do, thanks to you. I'm learning that building generally it takes longer & costs more money than most people anticipate, when compared to the US.

I've heard from other people with experience, that termites can be a problem with any wood construction in Baja. It seems that if even if a person used metal studs, that you'd still have to use plywood on the outside of that, right? Wouldn't the plywood be subject to termites? Seems like concrete construction might be the way to go.

[Edited on 12-4-2015 by imlost]

BajaUtah - 12-4-2015 at 02:09 PM

Quote: Originally posted by durrelllrobert  


By the way, were any of the ICS 3-D PANEL SYSTEM houses down there damaged by Oldie?


My tri-D panel house south of La Ribera made it through Odile with no damage to the envelope. We had just finished (second night in the house) and Odile hit. Unprotected US vinyl windows made it fine. US French doors and local built wood doors made it fine with a bit of water in where thresholds hadn't been installed yet.

The only problem was the palapa roof over the top deck was knocked partially over. We realize now we undersized the support structure. One pine pole in each corner have now been replaced by 3 poles in each corner and we have a cross bracing system that can easily be added pre-storm.

I can't say enough good things about the tri-D type system. It is cool and quiet and comfortable. I don't understand why people still build with block. Well I can understand the money part but it will pay for itself in a few years of AC.

hookemup - 12-4-2015 at 02:26 PM

Our 3D panel place in Cabo Pulmo was fine through both John and Oldie.

durrelllrobert - 12-4-2015 at 04:43 PM

Quote: Originally posted by imlost  
Thanks for the responses everyone. There's some great information offered here and I have a lot of thinking to do, thanks to you. I'm learning that building generally it takes longer & costs more money than most people anticipate, when compared to the US.

I've heard from other people with experience, that termites can be a problem with any wood construction in Baja. It seems that if even if a person used metal studs, that you'd still have to use plywood on the outside of that, right? Wouldn't the plywood be subject to termites? Seems like concrete construction might be the way to go.

[Edited on 12-4-2015 by imlost]


NO, PLYWOOD IS NOT THE MATERIAL USED AS SHEATHING ON METAL STUD FRAMING. A figerglass coated gypsum board is used that comes in 1/2" 4'x8' sheets. It is termite and fireproff and what you see used mostly in Baja is yellow in color (DensGlass available at Home Depot) but other manufactures color their's blue, purple or almost any other color. After you install it you apply a thin (about 1/8") stucco coat directly on it and you have a finished exterior.

durrelllrobert - 12-4-2015 at 04:45 PM

Quote: Originally posted by BajaUtah  
Quote: Originally posted by durrelllrobert  


By the way, were any of the ICS 3-D PANEL SYSTEM houses down there damaged by Oldie?


My tri-D panel house south of La Ribera made it through Odile with no damage to the envelope. We had just finished (second night in the house) and Odile hit. Unprotected US vinyl windows made it fine. US French doors and local built wood doors made it fine with a bit of water in where thresholds hadn't been installed yet.

The only problem was the palapa roof over the top deck was knocked partially over. We realize now we undersized the support structure. One pine pole in each corner have now been replaced by 3 poles in each corner and we have a cross bracing system that can easily be added pre-storm.

I can't say enough good things about the tri-D type system. It is cool and quiet and comfortable. I don't understand why people still build with block. Well I can understand the money part but it will pay for itself in a few years of AC.


Good to hear that

durrelllrobert - 12-4-2015 at 04:50 PM

Quote: Originally posted by hookemup  
Our 3D panel place in Cabo Pulmo was fine through both John and Oldie.


I THINK IT'S A GREAT SYSTEM OTHER THAN THE INITIAL COST AND FINDING A CONTRACTOR AND CREW THAT KNOW HOW TO BUILD WITH IT.As I understand it you really need a swiming pool crew to shoot the Gunite onto the steel mesh on both sides and the wiring and plubing need to be install behind the mesh before it is shot.

El Jefe - 12-5-2015 at 10:01 AM

Chalk up another 3D panel house that has stood up to ten year's of storms. We love ours. Yes, your contractor has to know how to use it, as would a contractor who did metal studs. Either might be hard to find for a given location. EVERYONE in Mexico knows how to do block. Best keep that as your realistic fall-back option.

3D panel

huesos - 12-5-2015 at 11:14 AM

When you guys are talking about 3D panel systems, does this included a steel post and I beam initial structure with the lath hung inside that? Or is this a system of wire cage freestanding?
I have found one of the former abandoned in my area. The steel frame is substantial and heavier than what I would construct for any residential purpose.

monoloco - 12-5-2015 at 01:57 PM

Quote: Originally posted by huesos  
When you guys are talking about 3D panel systems, does this included a steel post and I beam initial structure with the lath hung inside that? Or is this a system of wire cage freestanding?
I have found one of the former abandoned in my area. The steel frame is substantial and heavier than what I would construct for any residential purpose.
I have never seen 3d panel constructed around a steel post and beam framework. It would be totally unnecessary as the 3d panel construction is structurally very strong.

monoloco - 12-5-2015 at 02:04 PM

Another material worth considering is EF Block, high R value, lightweight, goes up with standard construction techniques, and is made locally.
http://www.efblockmx.info

[Edited on 12-5-2015 by monoloco]

3D panel

huesos - 12-5-2015 at 07:16 PM

Do you have a web reference ( link) or general direction that you can send me in to get a look at this 3D panel system? I am assuming that without a steel super structure, these panels must be manufactured somewhere. It would explain the sky high price per square foot figures being bandied about here.

El Jefe - 12-5-2015 at 09:23 PM

Check out this web site http://www.tridipanel.com/

We have been calling it 3D but really it is called Tri D

Here is how it goes. You pour the slab and footings. Re-bar is embedded in the footings where walls will be that sticks up a few feet. Then the tri-d panels are sort of impaled over the re-bar to secure it to the floor. The whole house is built by wiring together the panels, cutting holes for doors and windows, and running plumbing and electrical through the walls where the insulation has been cut or melted away etc. Once it is all put together it is strong enough that you can walk around on the roof.

Then they either throw concrete on it or shoot it on with a pump like they do swimming pools. Goes up fast. Makes for a great house. We are sure happy with ours.

roof forming

huesos - 12-6-2015 at 03:49 PM

That is different than the link that I found. The system seems similar. How do you form for the roof? Same as poured slab in block construction? If two story is a requirement, what carries the second floor slab?
From what I can see, these are foam core wire panels designed to be shot with gunite and trowel finished to specifications. How many unite contractors are there in this area? For that matter, how many small steel fabricators are there? In my area, there are a lot of small welding/steel fab guys who are good and not trying to make a killing on any single job which is why, so far, steel looks the best although soft wood lumber prices are coming down.

monoloco - 12-6-2015 at 04:21 PM

Quote: Originally posted by huesos  
That is different than the link that I found. The system seems similar. How do you form for the roof? Same as poured slab in block construction? If two story is a requirement, what carries the second floor slab?
From what I can see, these are foam core wire panels designed to be shot with gunite and trowel finished to specifications. How many unite contractors are there in this area? For that matter, how many small steel fabricators are there? In my area, there are a lot of small welding/steel fab guys who are good and not trying to make a killing on any single job which is why, so far, steel looks the best although soft wood lumber prices are coming down.
The Tri-D panel is strong enough to carry some pretty large spans without a beam, if a beam is needed, it is poured in place at the same time as the floor. The panels are wired together and a steel fabricator is not necessary to erect the panels. There is a special tool available that applies wire clips to join the panels. There are only a handful of contractors that have the pump to shoot the walls. Some guys will just plaster by hand, but it is inferior. I would never consider a house built of softwood because of termites and powder post beetles.

monoloco - 12-6-2015 at 04:27 PM

Quote: Originally posted by monoloco  
Quote: Originally posted by huesos  
That is different than the link that I found. The system seems similar. How do you form for the roof? Same as poured slab in block construction? If two story is a requirement, what carries the second floor slab?
From what I can see, these are foam core wire panels designed to be shot with gunite and trowel finished to specifications. How many unite contractors are there in this area? For that matter, how many small steel fabricators are there? In my area, there are a lot of small welding/steel fab guys who are good and not trying to make a killing on any single job which is why, so far, steel looks the best although soft wood lumber prices are coming down.
The Tri-D panel is strong enough to carry some pretty large spans without a beam, if a beam is needed, it is poured in place at the same time as the floor. The panels are wired together and a steel fabricator is not necessary to erect the panels. There is a special tool available that applies wire clips to join the panels. There are only a handful of contractors that have the pump to shoot the walls. Some guys will just plaster by hand, but it is inferior. I would never consider a house built of softwood because of termites and powder post beetles.
Actually, that would be the construction method for a roof, for an intermediate floor, they would normally be a solid pour or a casaton grid pour, but could be tri-d panel construction.

El Jefe - 12-7-2015 at 09:16 AM

The entire roof of my house was done with tri-d panel as well. There are some large poured in place beams that cross the ceiling of the great room. When it was all wired up together you could walk around on the roof panels before the pour. Pretty sturdy stuff.

Paula thought the window in one bathroom was going to be too small before they shot on the concrete. Our contractor said "Hey Juan!" and had Juan clip the wire and cut the foam to make the window opening bigger as we stood there watching. "How's that?" Pretty cool we thought.

BajaUtah - 12-7-2015 at 09:30 AM

We did a combination of post and beam with infilled panels and standalone panel and roof.




The slab has been drilled for rebar to locate the panels





You can see the poured posts and the rebar locating the panels




Reinforcing bits for corners, openings and flats. You can see the thicker panel used for exterior walls and roof and thinner interior partition walls




Rough openings for windows and doors. You can see wood bucks for attaching windows and doors. Rebar for roof to wall and panel to panel structure. Flat mesh at 45deg for corner stress relief. This section we used panel for the roof.




Wiring and liquid lines for AC




Classic caseton roof inside the post and beam area. You can see the transition to the panel roof. Poured out, the roof deck is 1 flat surface.




Inside caseton roof. You can see a bit of panel to post infill on the left.




We did all the mudwork by hand. My contractor was not comfortable with the truck/spray mix or the operators skills. Took a long, long, time but -




It looks great




Just about done. Needs Teja roof and a good clean up.




Upstairs deck with Sea of Cortez view. This was the only bit damaged in Odile. It was knocked over in the direction we are looking. My fault for approving the spindly single post supports. They are now 3 on a corner lag bolted and metal strapped together and I can now cross brace the entire roof with cargo straps.

The number of $140/sqft was right on for my project and that includes windows, AC, doors and kitchen bits from the US








[Edited on 12-7-2015 by BajaUtah]

TMW - 12-7-2015 at 11:05 AM

An excellent job for sure. Thanks for the pictures as it was going up.