Winter 2016 - 3 weeks to La Ventana and Back

Howdy folks,

This trip report covers my 2016 trip. It's becoming an annual tradition to come down around this time. This year we crossed on 2/27 and stayed about three weeks. I drove my '84 diesel high-top 60-series Landcruiser, and my friends joined for most of it in a stock 2011 Cherokee.

I had three goals for this trip: to see whales and whale-friends in Ojo de Liebre, to relax in a hot spring with a view of the bioluminescence on the Sea of Cortez, and to get some body work done on my truck.

I'll keep posting to this thread with details as I uncover them. If you want to skip ahead, you can see the entire photo album on Flickr.

Ensenada:
We left later in the morning than intended. Our goal was to arrive in Ensenada in time for fish tacos by the marina - a hard deadline of 8pm.

Just before walking out the door, I called the Hotel Santo Tomas to see if they had any availability. Still full. I tried the attached Motel Caribe - a grungier but still acceptable alternative. I like the parking lot they share, and the breakfast in Cazuelitas. They told me they had rooms, and then said something about 3PM. I told them I would be arriving late, after 8pm. They said something I didn't understand. I said something they didn't understand. I hung up, wondering if something was amiss.

We had an easy time at the TJ border crossing - we parked near the bus parking at the far right just before exiting for the highway to get our FMMs. Easy as can be. However, by the time we left the building it was after 8pm. The fish taco fallback plan was now in effect - tacos from Tequila's, usually good until ~11 or so.

We arrived in Ensenada late. The entertainment district was a madhouse. The Motel Caribe was, of course, full and did not have my reservation. We walked down the street to the Hotel Bahia, which also had guarded parking, and got a room there. The lot had a lot of cool vehicles, like the 3 Burros 4x4 van.


3 Burros 4x4 Van by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr

Once I reunited with my friends, we headed directly to Tequila's only to find out they were done serving food. We had conciliatory beers and tequila and more beers and made plans to meet Louie later at Galleria. The taco search continued, next bringing us to a sausage stand. These were, I chit you not, the greatest sausages in the world. I might have even said that while sober.


The best salchichas in Ensenada. by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr

I think we did eventually find street tacos, and then buckets of beer at Galleria, which was hosting some hard rock band. We never did see Louie though.

The next morning, after coffee, menudo, and manta ray machaca at Cazuelitas (this is my preferred Ensenada hangover cure), we headed out, stopping at Soriana to buy supplies. I warned everyone that this is the last big supermercado we're going to see for a while. We decided to buy extra dried peppers. Just in case.

Then, finally, the open road. At last it felt like we were on a Baja trip. Just past Ojos Negros, I saw the sign for the Cava del Queso. I'd never been there before. I signaled the Cherokee to stop and asked everyone, "do you want to see a cheese .... uh, cave?" We voted yes, and wandered up into Ojos Negros to find the road to the ranch.

It was pretty well marked, and we arrived to find a small farm, with a nicely landscaped garden, and a lot of cows. Within minutes I had a Michelada in hand, and was talked into taking a cheese tour. I won't bore you with the details, but I will say it's worth it. The cheese is damn tasty, the wine is endrunkifying, and it's kind of fun to let a baby cow suck on your hand.

[Edited on 2016-4-21 by WideAngleWandering]

San Felipe

Recounting this trip is an excruciatingly painful activity right now as I've just returned to work. I spend most of my time making spreadsheets and powerpoint slides when I'd rather be designing improvements to the baja travel rig.

San Felipe
We spent way too much time lounging around the Cava de Queso, enjoying cheese, wine and micheladas, so it was dark as we approached MX-5. The original plan had been to avoid some highway and drive across Laguna Diablo, but we aborted and stuck to pavement. Sadly I drove past the turn-off and on to the military checkpoint at the junction with MX-5. This second checkpoint was just as easy as Ojos Negros, and we drove on through with barely a delay.

We pulled into town and headed straight for El Capitan, just off the malecon, for a couple 575 peso rooms. The San Felipe 250 had just ended, so it wasn't hard to find a room, locate a case of beer around the corner, then drink the beer, and head out to the malecon.

A lot of people give San Felipe a bad rap, but I've always had a good time on the malecon ( ), especially on Saturdays/Sundays/holidays. I love it all - the good and the bad. The terrible-yet-enthusiastic musicians, the decrepit boats and failed developments, Danny Clamato's street micheladas, all the tacos, cheap tequila, jewelry sellers, street dogs, car stereos, ta ta coffee mugs, elotes ...

If you haven't been to the San Felipe malecon on a good night, you're really missing out.

Sadly it was just a short overnight for us, as the next morning we loaded up our rigs and headed south to spend a night in Gonzaga Bay. Before leaving I stopped to see Carlos at the body shop and made an appointment to come back in a couple weeks and have some body work done on the truck.

Then we stopped for fuel. The shops outside the Pemex - ahh, San Felipe, keepin' it classy!


Lolita & Ricky Phatass by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr

On the way south along the sadly paved road, we skipped Cow Patty's but did make a point of stopping to check out Shell Island. I'd never been out there and wanted to know where to find it for future camping trips. Fortunately the tide was low and it was easy to get up to the sand overlooking the beach.


The Entrance to Shell Island by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr

I'm looking forward to coming back - for the micheladas, the truck repairs, and someday, some secluded camping along Shell Island.

[Edited on 2016-4-21 by WideAngleWandering]

[Edited on 2016-4-21 by WideAngleWandering]

Quote: Originally posted by AKgringo

Looking forward to some details about the photos in your flikr album. It looks like you spent some time at Laguna Hanson.

Gonzaga Bay

Gonzaga Bay

I have kind of a love-hate relationship with this place. I love that it's beautiful. I hate how it seems to be getting harder and harder to find beach access. I also find it odd how Alfonsina's can charge $80 for a basic room now that the highway is paved. But if you're with people who don't want to camp, it's not a bad way to spend the night.

Anyhow, we arrived, gawked at the sunset, drank more beer, enjoyed some pretty decent pescado al mojo de ajo, talked with some other travelers, watched the stars, and got a great night's sleep.

The next day we were still on a mission heading south, but that morning we had to ask ourselves, do we really want to leave?

Morning on Gonzaga Bay by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr

We could camp from Papa Fernandez or even boondock or maybe rent a palapa from Beluga (or is it Sacrificio?) and see if the sky & the sea put on a show for us.

We let the dogs play in the sea and explored the tidal channel while we pondered.


Dog in Gonzaga Bay by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr


Happy Lab by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr


I see a bird! by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr


Shakin' Dry by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr

But in the end we decided to keep going, further south. To the whales!

On the way out, I saw a guy working on his helicopter. Great, now another hobby to add to my list.


Flying Machine by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr

[Edited on 2016-4-21 by WideAngleWandering]

[Edited on 2016-4-21 by WideAngleWandering]

Coco

It's now day 4 and I've spent the last 3 nights in hotels. It's time to do some camping. Tonight we should arrive at Ojo de Liebre. If we're lucky, we'll pass by Guerrero Negro in time to get the best fish tacos in all of Baja, at Tacos El Muelle.

But first, we stop to see Coco.

Coco's Corner


Coco's Cans by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr

At this point I know the routine. Arrive amidst a gaggle of motorcycle riders, semi drivers, off-road racers, and travelers. Accept the offer of a can of Pacifico. Look around and see what's changed in the junk collection from last year. Donate some underpants. Let Coco make lewd tongue gestures at any women in your party. Have another beer. Sign the guestbook. Hit the road.

There may or may not be a photo out there somewhere of me standing on a wooden table, nail in one hand, hammer in the other, dainty red panties dangling from my teeth, as I hunt for a place to to hang them.


Coco's Junk by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr


Coco's Toilets by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr


Coco's Ladies Room by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr


Coco's Big Red Panties. by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr

[Edited on 2016-4-21 by WideAngleWandering]

[Edited on 2016-4-21 by WideAngleWandering]

[Edited on 2016-4-21 by WideAngleWandering]

Ojo de Liebre

We rolled into Guerrero Negro after a speedy drive over the unpaved portion of MX-5 from Coco's to Laguna Chapala. My truck, with 33" BFG mud terrains, hauls ass over these roads. Eventually the Cherokee caught up.

In Guerrero Negro we expectantly drove down the main drag looking for Tacos el Muelle. It was nearly 5PM and he was already done for the day. Another taco fail. We had backup tacos at Tacos Poblano just east of the Pemex, which is never a bad option.

Ojo de Liebre

Sunset Over Outhouses by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr

I've been enthralled by this place since Shari first told me about it a few years ago. Since then it's been an annual trip for me.

We rolled into camp just as the sun was setting. Shari recognized my beastly old truck and stepped out of her camper for hugs and howdys. And just like that, I was back home with the tribe.

The next few days were brilliant. We spent hours exploring the beaches and tide pools with the dogs.


Dogs on the Beach by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr

We spent more hours in camp chairs at each others' sites - Shari, Beth, Dave & Nancy, Ken. Every year it's the same faces and I really dig that. We ate grilled octopus and shared bottles of tequila. We had a great dance party with Juan and the Asuncion band.

And of course, the whales.

It's flipping amazing to watch these ocean dinosaurs rise up from the sea and feel their seawater & whale snot rain down on you when they spout.


Whale Says Hi. by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr


Mother and calf spouting by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr


Whale Shower by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr


Mother and Calf by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr


Comin' Right For Us by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr


Gray Whale Calf by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr

[Edited on 2016-4-21 by WideAngleWandering]

[Edited on 2016-4-21 by WideAngleWandering]

[Edited on 2016-4-21 by WideAngleWandering]

What's that you say? You love this thread but just wish it had more whale pictures? Well, you're in luck then. These were all shot with a 1970s-era Canon F1 and some manual telephoto lenses.


Gray Whale Diving by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr


Gray Whale Tail Splashing by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr


Gray Whale Tail by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr


Spy Hop by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr


Grey whales are like ocean dinosaurs by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr


Spy Hop by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr


Grey whale spouting by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr

Bahia Asuncion to La Bocana

I'm at my desk but my mind is still in Baja.

After several glorious days soaking up the sun and wind and whales and Tecate in Ojo de Liebre, we set off again, this time along the coast through Asuncion, La Bocana, Abreojos, and on to the gulf side.


Bahia Asuncion

First stop, Bahia Asuncion for Ramon's tacos, aka the best shrimp tacos in Baja. Belly's full, we decided that maybe we'd like to stay a little while. We rented rooms from La Bufadora Inn, and kicked back to enjoy the views.


Bahia Asuncion Coast by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr

This little Lumia camera phone does a fine job in challenging light.


La Bufadora by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr

But I still have more fun with film.


La Bufadora at Sunset #1 by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr


La Bufadora at Sunset #2 by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr

And the swells kept getting bigger ...


La Bufadora at Sunset #3 by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr

We spent the rest of the evening with a bottle of Jimador, a case of Tecate, and a set of Cards Against Humanity. Not bad.

[Edited on 2016-4-21 by WideAngleWandering]

To Bahia Concepcion

We got up early, well-rested, slightly hungover, and after more of Ramon's tacos, ready to hit the road. We planned to continue along the coast until Abreojos, get back onto Hwy 1, take a break in San Ignacio, and continue on to to Bahia Concepcion to find a place to camp for the night.

Punta Prieta

I really enjoy this stretch of "road". The coastal views, the geology, the beach combing, hauling ass on long straight dirt roads, some easy trails ...


Landcruiser Near Punta Prieta by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr

The problem is, we're all easily distracted. I believe this beach is just outside of Punta Prieta, near Bahia Asuncion. There are abalone shell fragments, lobster-filled tidepools, cool rocks and beautiful sea views.


Beach & Tide Pools near Punta Prieta by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr


Waves Rolling In Near Punta Prieta by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr

So we let the dogs out.


Dogs on Punta Prieta by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr

... and did some beach combing and rock admiring.


Blue & Red Rock Layers near Punta Prieta by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr

But eventually we had to get moving. By the time we'd reached La Bocana, it was getting late and we decided to keep on trucking. Sorry Blanca - I really did mean to stop by on this trip. As we approached Abreojos we drove through the town dump. Yikes.

San Ignacio


San Ignacio Mission by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr

We rolled into San Ignacio before sunset, and decided to try and stay in town rather than look for camping at Concepcion in the dark. We tried the new hotel but it was full. We checked the Desert Inn. Full. We stopped by Ignacio Springs, which actually had a yurt available, but only because a palm forest fire had burned part of the grounds and lead to cancellations. It appeared to be the work of a local pyromaniac. Not wanting to risk a middle-of-the-night evacuation, and not in a good position to take advantage of the fancy property, we went out to the highway and got a cheap room at the Oasis.

And promptly witnessed a local family's dog get run over by a car. Sucktastic.

Now traumatized, we headed back to the square to look for tacos. There were no taco carts on the plaza (a bad omen?), so we took a seat outside a little restaurant. The friendly young woman brought us a basket of burnt tortilla chips and some warm beer. We guzzled the lukewarm Pacifico and asked if they had any cold ones. They'd just loaded the fridge so we moved on.

Further down the road is a place I'd been to before so we took a seat. And waited. And waited. They were completely swamped by a couple of whale watching tour groups. Eventually we got cold beer (!). An hour or so later we had some food. My buddy was served a partially raw lobster.

So far this stop was turning out to be a bust. Pyromaniacs, booked up hotels, tour groups, dead pets, warm beer, burnt tortilla chips, undercooked sea food. Damn.

The next morning we went back to the square and grabbed breakfast from a street stall. It was hot cheap and tasty. Our passengers spiked their coffee with rum and life was good again.

I took a short walk around the mission before we hit the road.


San Ignacio Mission by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr

I was greatly amused by the phrasing on the signs explaining the mission.

San Ignacio Mission by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr

San Ignacio Mission by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr

Jesus Hangin' by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr

Quote: Originally posted by BajaBlanca

I am so disappointed that you didn't say hi.....and share a beverage with us on the porch

Quote: Originally posted by WideAngleWandering

Quote: Originally posted by BajaBlanca   I am so disappointed that you didn't say hi.....and share a beverage with us on the porch This is the downside to group travel. Cat-herding and decision by committee. Next time for sure! Quote: David K: It is a place for people who need NOTHING in the form of amenities other than what Nature provides. It was perfect! I just wish I could have talked my companions into spending a couple nights there. This is my #1 camping destination near SF from now on. It's delightfully perfectly empty with just enough risk of getting stuck to make it interesting.

Perfection!

We left San Ignacio and headed for the Sea of Cortez. Even though it was daylight, the mugging of some other travellers just east of the San Ignacio checkpoint was on my minds. I just figured if someone tried to cut me off in an old pickup, I'd just let ol' Betsy run them down, bull-bar first. Of course, there were no issues.

Our first stop was in Santa Rosalia for a combination bathroom break and baguette shopping trip. I've always wanted to spend some time in this town, photographing the architecture and all the old industrial equipment. Maybe I'd even get a chance to find some interesting minerals outside of town in the old mine tailings. Not this time though. I had only a few minutes to check out Eiffel's church before we loaded up and headed out.


Eiffel's Mission by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr

Back on the road, we made a brief stop in Mulege to stock up on beer. I've always meant to stop and explore the place, but I'm afraid it's another spot I have to leave for another trip. I recently picked up a 1985 AAA guide to Baja. Here's how they described it:

Sounds like my kinda town.

Just past Santispac, south of Mulege, we pulled off to enjoy some time on the beach.


Playa Escondida by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr


Landcruiser at Playa Escondida by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr


Playa Escondida by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr

It was a very relaxing afternoon for us and the hounds. Originally I was hoping to spend the night camped along the coast, but lost time compelled us to move on. Next stop, Loreto.

Driving along Bahia Concepción is one stunning desert seascape after another. Despite the development, there are still places where you can find a bit of solitude. I dig it.

As we pulled in to Loreto, I heard a suspicious squeal from under the hood. I figured it had something to do with the power steering. Finally, my first mechanical failure of the trip. I have to admit, I love a good breakdown.

Still, we set vehicle repairs aside and drove into town to find Don and Karen, whom I hadn't seen in years. Don treated us to some fresh fish tacos while we talked about our trip, and plans, and life in Baja. After tacos and beer, the Cherokee friends set off to find a dog-friendly hotel with their hounds and we settled in for the night.

The next morning, we had breakfast at Orlando's, the same place where I always have breakfast in Loreto, and then wandered back to Don & Karen's to sort out my power-steering. Sadly it turned out to be a simple fix; the power-steering belt was coming apart. I had a spare and we were ready to get on the road within minutes.

Before heading out, I snapped a photo of Don's fantastic V10 Triton Samurai.


Triton V10 Suzuki by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr

On the way out of town, we stopped to ogle the incredible views of the Sea of Cortez. Stunning.


Sea of Cortez Views #1 by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr


Finally got some dirt on the Cherokee by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr

Sea of Cortez Views #2 by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr

Our next stop would be either La Paz or La Ventana, depending on the hour.

Quote: Originally posted by WideAngleWandering

Recounting this trip is an excruciatingly painful activity right now as I've just returned to work. I spend most of my time making spreadsheets and powerpoint slides when I'd rather be designing improvements to the baja travel rig.

Interesting!
When I get back from Baja, I love doing the trip report because it puts me back in Baja (mentally) all over again! Heck, I never want to leave Baja!
Thank you all for the time you do devote for sharing your trips with us, whenever you can!!

La Ventana's coming up next.

I think I have time to knock out one more post this morning before I go back to spreadsheets or some such nonsense.

'Till then, here's a bonus photo I just scanned from Baja 2015. This just goes to show how long it takes me to get around to the black & white film.


Essential Gear by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr

[Edited on 2016-5-17 by WideAngleWandering]

To La Ventana

We set off from Loreto, after a nice breakfast, and some sight-seeing, and started up to cross the Sierras yet again. This next leg is one of my least favorite drives, with that long-straight stretch though Insurgentes and Constitucion. Looking at the map, I realized I was driving right past the roads to Comondu and San Javier. I'll have to circle them for next time. Just like I did the last time.

My old truck may not look like much, but if I'm not fighting the wind, I can maintain 80 on a flat highway with the turbo running full bore. I prefer to back off a little and keep the boost pressure under 12psi but this stretch really tests my patience.

When we reached Constitucion, I pulled over and waited for the Cherokee to catch up. My buddy told me that the last time he'd driven through here, he'd had burro tacos at a street stall. We then drove very slowly through town, obeying every stop sign, hoping not to get rear-ended, while simultaneously looking out for overweight motorcycle cops and burro tacos. We spotted neither, and instead consoled ourselves at Carnitas "La Selva".

Back on the road ... making great time and enjoying the cloudscape. Everytime I've covered this stretch I've found myself driving along an endless highway with puffy clouds scooting overhead. It's really the only thing to look at around here.

We reached the edge of La Paz at about 4PM. I pulled over again and consulted with the Cherokee. We could either divert to La Paz for a night, spend the morning at the beaches up past Pichilingue, or keep on trucking. We decided to push on, which I have to admit I kind of regretted as I have fond memories of La Paz, but I reminded myself that with only three weeks, I wouldn't be able to see it all.

At this point I had to rely on the GPS to navigate us around La Paz and catch highway 286 southeast for the gulf. I love how many times I criss-cross the peninsula while heading south. Fascinating geography.

286 is an interesting road. It's in fairly good condition, paved and potholed, but very passable. It's definitely a secondary highway though. It basically goes straight up the mountains on one side, and straight down on the other. I don't think I used any fuel getting down the east side.

We finally pulled into La Ventana around 5:30. We had no plans other than a desire to find the tidal hot springs and camp hear them, hoping to relax in a hand-dug thermal pool while admiring the bioluminescence. My first impressions, however, were not great. There were a lot of ecohotels, and it all struck me as quite expensive. We drove through La Ventana, eventually finding a campground on the north end of town. It was getting dark though, and the skies were looking ominous. The Cherokee aborted to go find a hotel. We kept on, driving through El Sargento. We kept heading north on a dirt road winding along the coast, until we found a beach with a few 4x4 expedition vehicles parked, with the occupants inside avoiding the rain, which was steadily increasing.

I pulled over and asked some kids about the hot springs. They pointed to the far end of the beach, so we drive down through the arroyo to the beach, and followed the road to the far end. There we found a group of people sitting in a giant tarp-lined pit. The guys doing all the work to dig the whole and fill it with water were Australian. They worked for one of the ecohotels and were taking a group out for a "hot spring experience." I tried talking to them; most were frosty, but one of them explained how the springs work. You either dig or wait for low tide. If you dig, you can make a hole to sit in and a separate hole to get at the hot water, using buckets and pumps to get the right temperature water, or you wait for low tide and sit amongst the rocks, letting the tide dictate the temperature.

At this point the sun was setting and there was lightning in the far distance. I thanked the friendly dude and headed back towards town and cell phone reception to call the Cherokee friends. They were having a margarita. They'd found a hotel room but it was going to be pricey. I decided to stop at every place that looked like they had rooms for rent and inquire. Many were closed - this was the end of kite season. However, I did find a place in La Ventana that had a rack rate of nearly $100USD, but they offered it to me for 100 pesos. The grounds were beautiful, the restaurant closed for the season, and only one other room was occupied.

There are no photos at this point because today was spent mostly driving. I have to get back to the grind, but here's a teaser photo from the hotel parking lot.


Buggy and Landcruiser by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr

[Edited on 2016-5-18 by WideAngleWandering]

La Ventana

Sorry for the hiatus. Work. Life. Saving for the next trip. So little time it seems.

La Ventana, continued
After scoring a room to stay, we went up the road to a small restaurant with a big margarita sign out front, ordered some fish, and commenced drinking. Getting a hotel turned out to be a pretty smart move as a really ugly storm moved in and the steady rain turned into a downpour. After fish and beer and margaritas, we ran across the road to Playa Central, grabbed more delicious beer, and sat back on the couch to listen to the band. It was greatly amusing to hear them singing kite-surfing songs. I had no idea that genre even existed. After a while, the rain really started to pound, and the fugas in the metal roof started dripping on us. No worries though - at least we weren't in tents out on the beach. I was really surprised when the clatter on the roof turned even more metallic. Everyone in the bar went to the door and we were amazed to see hail coming down. Really that just kicked the party up a notch.

Eventually we retreated to the hotel. Only three rooms were occupied - two by us and one by a couple from Los Cabos. We chatted on the patio overlooking the ocean and watched the lightning strikes. They told me all about Cabo Pulmo, which is now officially circled on my map for next time. My map has a lot of circles on it. I need at least two more lifetimes to cover them all.

In the morning, sadly, the Cherokee friends had to head back north. We still had a week longer to spend, however, and it was a groovy week indeed.

Adios by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr

La Ventana & El Sargento

After waving goodbye to the Cherokee friends, we slipped back in to Playa Central to grab a beer from the bar and go out back and watch the kite surfers. The rest of the morning and afternoon drifted by. I paused the kite watching only to change film and change beer.


Kite Surfers in La Ventana by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr

I've seen people wind surfing in the Colombia River Gorge but this was the first time I'd seen any kite surfers up close. It looks like a ton of fun, but a pain in the ass to learn.


Kite Surfers Behind Playa Central (Cinestill) by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr


Kite Surfers Behind Playa Central (Cinestill) by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr


Kite Surfers Behind Playa Central (Cinestill) by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr

I'm told that in the high season, the coast is packed with kite surfers. This was a light day.


Kite Surfers Behind Playa Central (Cinestill) by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr

My favorite piece of kit, an old Canon F1 with a fixed lense. I zoom with my feet.


Photographing the Kite Surfers by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr

Eventually we headed back to camp on the far end of El Sargento. It was getting late to dig a hot tub, and we were not prepared with tarps and buckets. The tide was up and covering the tide pools, so we just relaxed by the sea, alone, quiet, and happy. After night fell, I spent a bit more time with the camera and the stars.


Ursa Major over Camp by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr


El Sargento Big Dipper Startrail by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr

Great!

Quote: Originally posted by Udo

Some of love Baja so much (after all the travels, rigors, winch-outs, broken equipment and flat tires, etc.) have decided to make this land our permanent home. You sound like such a candidate in the future as well!

That sounds like a great idea to me. If only I knew of a house for rent somewhere in Asuncion ...

The next morning, I got up early and photographed some more kite surfers, this time from where we camped at the hot springs.


Kite Surfers (Ektar) by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr

The tides was out, so conditions were right to finally check out the hot water. We stacked up some rocks in a spot that had clearly been used before and soaked while pondering the nature of the universe and what to have for breakfast. The water alternated from near scalding to quite cool as the waves rolled out and back in.

The views were outstanding, and we had the place all to ourselves.


Tidal Hot Springs at El Sargento. by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr


Geothermal Tide by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr

While we were still at the beach, we saw another 60-series Landcruiser. This one I recognized from Stockton, California, where I'd seen this very nice HDT-powered beast at Valley Hybrids. I love serendipitous Baja encounters.


Landcruiser Beach Camp by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr

Eventually we decided it was time to start meandering north. We booked it up to Ojo de Liebre, stopping for the night to surprise Shari and spend one last night on the lagoon. I didn't do any more photography though until we'd made it all the way back up to San Felipe. I'll save that for the next post.

I just finished processing some infrared film, and have some cool cactus shots coming up.

I just finished processing and scanning the infrared film. That's coming up shortly. But first, San Felipe.

I had a couple of purposes in coming to San Felipe. First and foremost, to get one of Danny Clamato's michelada's from outside the 7-11.


Danny Clamato by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr

But secondly, in the hopes of getting some body work done on my truck.

The last few times I've come to Baja, I've tried to get some work done at Taller Carroceria "La Curva", by the police station just past the arco going north out of town. Carlos Cruz Bejarano at "La Curva" was recommended to me by the dude at Taller Barney. Anyhow, the last few times Carlos has been too busy. This time I made an appointment on the way south, and stopped to see him on the way back.

Only this time, he came back and offered to do a crappy job for $500 USD, or a good job for some unknown amount after he started chopping it open. He seems to have a steady stream of RVs and gringo customers, but that was just a wee bit too much uncertainty for me. He doesn't seem to have much help around the shop so I was afraid this would turn into a drawn out job. If I lived in the area it would probably be different.

No worries though - I had a great michelada and nice views before we headed up to Laguna Hanson via Laguna Diablo.


San Felipe Beach by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr

[Edited on 2017-1-21 by WideAngleWandering]

[Edited on 2017-1-27 by WideAngleWandering]

After several nights at El Capitan, taking in the delicious micheladas, mediocre fish tacos (seriously, someone tell me where to get a good fish taco in this town), lovely views, and failing at body work negotiations, we decided it was time to start meandering north.

I've taken to using Laguna Diablo as a crossing point between highway 3 and highway 5. I've never stopped at Jose's, but I've been meaning to for a while now.

Here's Laguna Diablo in black & white infrared film, shot using my dad's old Canon F1 from the 70s:


Road to Laguna Diablo by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr


Ocotillo Cactus near Laguna Diablo by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr

We headed up north/west on Highway 3 until we got to the turnoff at Heroes de la Independencia. The dirt road took us up north, over the mountains, and down into the pine forests leading up to the national park.

We stopped to buy supplies just outside the park. Our first stop, to pick up some fresh cheese, was foiled because the owner wouldn't let them sell less than 1kg of cheese at a go. Being more cheese than we could wrangle, we tried to negotiate for a smaller wedge, but with no success.

We continued up the road and stopped again to buy beer. This time, sold by the can. The nearly deaf and blind old man that sold us the beer was far more flexible.

It didn't really matter though. By the time we set up camp, we were well stocked with all my favorite things.


Favorite Things by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr

Since I'm leaving on the Baja 2017 trip in just a few days, I'm going to go ahead and wrap this up.

I love Laguna Hanson / Parque Constitucion Nacional. On this trip, I was thrilled to see water for the first time.

I was shooting a mix of infrared B&W and color slide film.


Tree Among Boulders 3 by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr


Tree Among Boulders by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr


Infrared Tree by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr


Boulders at Laguna Hanson by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr

That evening we had a brilliant pastel sky.


Laguna Hanson Infrared Shoot by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr


Birds Over Laguna Hanson by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr


Laguna Hanson at Sunset by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr

The next morning I photographed the reflections in the still water over the lake, until I accepted the sad realization that it was time to go home. What lies over that next hill? What will this sky look like tomorrow? When will that cactus bloom? I may never know. 'cuz I gotta go home. It's a tough life I tell ya.


Laguna Hanson Fire Watchtower by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr

Reflections on Laguna Hanson. by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr

On the way out of the park, we took the dirt road towards Ojos Negros to pick up some gift cheese from the Cava de Queso.

I saw several signs for the Katap Kuatey. Has anyone been up there? I'm intrigued, but we didn't have time to explore.


Signs for Rancho Casa Verde and Kutap Kuatey by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr

After the cheese resuppy mission was complete, we drove up to the Guadalupe Valley to try and taste some wine and find a place to stay for the night.

That didn't exactly go as expected. But I'll post that tidbit later this weekend.

[Edited on 2017-2-11 by WideAngleWandering]

Nice photos! And awesome places too.

I get a lucky snap shot sometimes... but your stuff is very cool.

Quote: Originally posted by David K

Quote: Originally posted by WideAngleWandering   Quote: Originally posted by BajaBlanca   I am so disappointed that you didn't say hi.....and share a beverage with us on the porch This is the downside to group travel. Cat-herding and decision by committee. Next time for sure! Quote: David K: It is a place for people who need NOTHING in the form of amenities other than what Nature provides. It was perfect! I just wish I could have talked my companions into spending a couple nights there. This is my #1 camping destination near SF from now on. It's delightfully perfectly empty with just enough risk of getting stuck to make it interesting. Perfection!

The Last Stretch

Sadly, the time came to cross back. I prefer to do this at Tecate. It's mostly inertia.

In Tecate, I had two goals. First, to employ a little T&T to delay the border crossing as long as possible. There's a little spot along the road north of the plaza, about a block east, with great Tacos and a 7-11 nearby that sells Tecate.

Second, to get a car wash. I find that this simple step eases my border crossings considerably. It seems that CBP really doesn't like a muddy truck.

Tecate Car Wash by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr

Thanks for following along. If you want to see the full photo set, head on over to Flickr:

Baja 2016

Baja 2015

Baja 2014

Baja 2013

Baja 2012

Quote: Originally posted by WideAngleWandering

But anyhow, my new friends were talking with the guy in Spanish. I heard them say they only had 200 pesos left as they were crossing the border the next morning. I was about to reach into my wallet to spot them the 40 pesos, when the guy suddenly got very rude, and told them that if they didn't want to pay the price, we could all just leave. I don't know what that guy's problem was. I'm not opposed to going back, but with enough time to use the hot springs and the foreknowledge that the people living in that house are a little touchy.

Quote: Originally posted by Lee

You're taking this way to personally. You don't know what was said if you don't know Spanish.

Quote: Originally posted by ElCap

Great report and photos, as always. And awesome Baja Landcruiser rig - is that a turbo diesel? I used to have an '86 FJ60 that saw lots of Baja time, but sold it a few years back. Now I'm in a 4wd Tacoma, guess I'm getting old . . .