BajaNomad

New member -Baja at Christmas

ericcooke - 7-19-2016 at 05:57 AM

Good morning,

My girlfriend and I are planning a Christmas/New Years trip into Baja with our two dogs and I have a few (hundred) questions and I am open to any advice any of you wish to share. We will cross the border on Xmas day and work our way down through San Felipe, Puertecito, Gonzaga Bay, Bay of L.A. to Puerto San Francisquito before turning around and heading back through Catavina and into Guadalupe Canyon with several still unplanned stops along the way. We plan on a mixture of camping and renting casitas as we go. We will also be exploring the petroglyphs, ghost towns and missions along our trip (I have been reading a lot of David K's stuff). Here are a few of my questions-
1. The weather looks to be pleasant but I have noticed a few people say it is cold. Is tent camping out of the question on the beaches?
2. Since we will be travelling during/between two holidays should we expect more businesses to be closed? (We will have food for at least a couple of days when we cross)
3. Our dogs are large. Besides standard precautions and the permit are there any other things to consider?
4. Please share any recommended stops!
Thank you for suffering through this small book for my first post. :)

Eric

DENNIS - 7-19-2016 at 07:03 AM


Welcome to BajaNomad, Eric. Your adventure sounds like a good one. Stay tuned for a long list of suggestions.
Give lots of thought to your dogs. Hope others here will add to this.

David K - 7-19-2016 at 07:59 AM

Cool but not cold, except maybe at Cataviña (which is high desert) and is cold at night in the winter. Rain is also possible that week... Have stayed at L.A. Bay at got a lot of rain one day around Christmas/ New Years.

Guadalupe Canyon (hot springs, near Mexicali) or Guadalupe Valley (wineries and a mission, near Ensenada)?

I am happy to provide any details that I may have. As Dennis says, lots more advice will be coming down the line!

shari - 7-19-2016 at 08:03 AM

welcome to the sanbox Eric and pooches! Weather is a crap shoot depending on cold fronts coming down from the north. One thing to note that many people dont realize is that on the mid Pacific side, the water temps are actually warmer than the gulf side meaning it is warmer for camping on this side.

Our water temps in Bahia Asuncion are around 70 usually so the air is also warmer as we are situated with ocean all around the village. It is actually warmer here than Mulege, BOLA & Loreto! WE also have a fun expat Christmas party with potluck dinner and crazy gift exchange here you can meet our local Nomads!

Check your U2u mailbox for more details. Come on down and meet the pacside nomads!

[Edited on 7-19-2016 by shari]

honda tom - 7-19-2016 at 08:23 AM

The stores/markets along your route south will be San Felipe, Gonzaga, and BOLA, gas at these locations also. You can get anything you need at these stops.
after San Francisquito (if you are heading out to Hwy 1 through El Arco) you can travel into Guerrero Negro for markets again.. then camp Pacific side.
turn west 15.6 mi south of santa rosalillita turn off. you will see on Baja Almanac a 15 mile beach road full off campsites. This is a good spot as you are also a dirt road away from mission san Borja, and a very good seafood restaurant at Rosarito.
Good times!

honda tom - 7-19-2016 at 08:28 AM

To add...... The market at Gonzaga is a bit pricey. Typically i use it for ice or things we forgot to get in San Felipe.

SFandH - 7-19-2016 at 08:31 AM

We bring our dog food with us, even when we go south for a few months. It's more expensive and choices can be limited in Mexico. Put tags on your dogs that have a phone number you can contact. During the holiday week there will be fireworks set off at most beach side campsites. We need to keep our dogs leashed when folks are setting them off. Good leashes are required. Also, many Mexicans are really afraid of dogs. Keep that in mind and be considerate.

Chances of a flat tire are high. I once had a cactus spine go through the side wall of a truck tire. Real slow leak. Bring what you need to change a tire on loose dirt including a hefty piece of wood to put under the jack. I carry a two foot long 4x12 and it has come in handy a couple of times.

Get pesos at an ATM after you cross the border. Tell your bank you will be using the card in Mexico before you go. Best to have two ATM cards. I lost one once and it would have been a big problem if we didn't have another.

[Edited on 7-19-2016 by SFandH]

David K - 7-19-2016 at 08:35 AM

Good point about tires...
Get a good electric air pump (MV-50, etc.) and a tire plug kit.
The air pump will be used more for reinflating after you need to lower the air for deep sand or rough roads than for tire repairs, hopefully.

Bajazly - 7-19-2016 at 08:43 AM

Welcome aboard. I did almost the very same trip at the same time a couple years ago. Temps in the day were pleasant, the nights cool but the killer was the wind, that is the windy season down there. Las Animas is a nice protected cove for camping, it just gets kind of sandy on the road out there. I suggest skipping San Fancisquito, a pretty beach but that's about it and the people who run it now aren't really into keeping it up to the standards of the past. El Baril just to the south is a neat little town but not really much there.

As you head west across the peninsula, stay at Rancho Piedra Blanca, you can't miss it. They have 6 cabinas, a nice dinning area and great showers. It's a working ranch and when we were there we got to watch the rancheros process 8 cows that night. Not every bodies cup of tea but growing up on a farm, I was impressed at the machine that was 4 hombres and a few knives. 10 minutes west of the ranch there are some very nice petroglyphs up on a cliff too.

Have a good trip and enjoy.

SFandH - 7-19-2016 at 08:50 AM

You're right about the wind. I kept tract one winter month on Bahia Concepcion and about 1/3 of the days were windy, many times 3 days in a row. A windy day for me is when a regular beach chair gets blown over.

Welcome to the forum!

AKgringo - 7-19-2016 at 11:46 AM

I second the opinions offered about temps (pleasant on the beach, cool in the hills) and the wind being a bigger possible factor.

Expect coyotes along the route you have chosen. I don't consider them a danger, but if your dogs chase them, you could have problems. Be prepared for pulling thorns and cactus spines, and keep your dogs well watered and cool them down if they are panting in the car.

The two times I have needed a veterinarian SOB, I was pleased with the skill level, and cost. If you need one, local is better than a long drive with a sick or injured pet.

I have not spent Christmas in Baja, but the three times I did on the mainland, businesses were busy, not closed during the season.

If you don't like what is left of the camp on the beach at San Francisquito, check the fishing camp at the north end of the runway. It is away from the beach, but Beto had a few spots with showers, water, and ice available (Nov 2014)

Fuel may be available along your route, but don't count on it outside of the towns you pass through!

[Edited on 7-19-2016 by AKgringo]

toronja - 7-19-2016 at 12:42 PM

Welcome! We did a very similar trip a few years back, and have driven down with our two dogs numerous times since.

1) We didn't end up camping nearly as much as we expected - near Catavina, we experienced below-freezing temps at night and fierce winds along the Cortez coast are pretty routine at that time of year. We had better luck on the Pacific side for camping. That said, it's not out of the question, just bring layers and windbreakers. Fortunately quite a few hotels also allow dogs (search the forum for past lists) and they are quite affordable (typically $30-40/night).

2) SFandH made a great point about fireworks - even in small towns we are talking about hours of firecrackers etc. every night between xmas and mid-January. Our dog still hasn't forgiven us.

3) Other than that, I love bringing the dogs down. It entertains the guys at the border/military checkpoints and is a sure bet that no one will break into your car. Please do read up on past posts and make sure you have your health certificates and rabies records on hand, though hopefully no one will ask.

I second Shari's suggestions :)

How long of a trip are you guys planning? Enjoy!

bajabuddha - 7-19-2016 at 01:03 PM

Xmas / January in northern Baja can get down-right COLD; cool is nice, but I've seen it in the upper 30º's, even on the beaches. Also, if a high pressure forms over the 4-corners region of the US expect winds. I have also seen it stand up and blow for 13 days (and nights) straight. Beach tent-camping in COLD, WINDY weather is still doable, if you know what you're doing. Bring extra tie-down cords.

This isn't meant to scare you off, but appreciate one simple tactic; better to have and not need than need and not have. Load for bear, as they say. Your whole trip is in the northern country, and in some high elevations, so coats, long-ies, and heavier bags advised. Even beanies and gloves (that's toques, eh?).

Far's businesses being closed, xmas day will have some closed, and of course, the day after Amateur Night some are due to La Cruda (hangovers). Other than that, they get no paid holidays... they don't work, they don't eat. You shouldn't have any problems with supplies.

Have a safe and happy trip.

DianaT - 7-19-2016 at 01:09 PM

Dogs --- we always took our dogs, but we lived there part time.

1. Be sure they are on heart worm meds --- lots of heart worm especially near the border.

2. Be sure they are protected from parvo which is also common in Baja --saw too many dogs in Asuncion die from parvo and it is worse near the border. Watched too many dogs die from it when we lived in Calexico.

3. Beware of puffer fish in the Sea of Cortez --- just licking a dead one can kill a dog. Very poisonous.

4. Never worried about a Health Certificate for the dog, but had all of the shot records.

5. And as already mentioned, be careful with the coyotes. But if you have big dogs, they will probably scare them off. :-)

Maybe plan as you go and just watch the weather. We have seen it warm and nice on the Sea of Cortez side, and have also seen it cold and windy. The same for the Pacific side. There were some Decembers that were quite warm and wonderful, and some really cold --- ran up some good electric bills keeping warm.

There will be more traffic on the highway than normal so just be extra careful.

Have a great time and maybe just stay flexible as to where you go --- then again, that is the way we always travel.



[Edited on 7-19-2016 by DianaT]

bkbend - 7-19-2016 at 01:55 PM

It's going to be much warmer than Colorado and you won't have to shovel the driveway. Along either shore the water temps will moderate the air temps and even if it gets cold (mid-40's) at night it will be short lived. Daytime will be mid-60 to mid-70 and quite pleasant. When camping on the Cortez shore the winds will blow from the north (if they blow) so chose your camping spot to provide some shelter. I've camped several times over Christmas/New Years and never had a problem with the weather. The previous mention of freezing nights around Catavina is worth noting, I've also seen that while camping near there. I'll also second the suggestion of staying at Piedra Blanca rather than camping at San Francisquito, but you may have to work with them on the dogs. They ended up being OK with keeping the dog on a leash and sleeping in the truck.

ericcooke - 7-19-2016 at 02:44 PM

OK! So much information. Thank you all!
1. David K. We are planning on Guadalupe Canyon for the hot springs.
2. Shari. Thank you so much for the information and the invite. I think we are going to take Bajazly's advice and skip Puerto San francisquito and head to Rancho Piedra Blanco and then come see you in Bahia Asuncion. I will figure out the dates and get in touch to reserve the casita. What day will you do the pot luck do you think?
3. AKgringo. Thank you for the information about the veterinarians. That is very good to know.
4. SFandH. We will bring the dogs' food with us. Also, we have an onboard air compressor, full spare, tire plugs and sealant goo....I really hope to not need all of that. :)
5. Toronja. Thanks for the info on the hotels. We will be travelling 14 days total but only 10 days in Baja. It's a long drive back to Denver....not as long as Oregon though.
6. Bajabuddha. That is exactly some of the info. we need to know. long tent spikes and extra tie downs are on the list.
7. DianaT. Thanks for the info. on parvo. I will make sure we are covered. The dogs are already on heartworm prevention but I honestly don't know about parvo. I will check.
8. Bkbend. I will definitely keep that in mind while setting up camps on the beach. Thanks for the info on Rancho Piedra Blanco as well. We will have to figure that out.
We've travelled around the Yucatan and Riviera Maya many times but we are very excited to see Baja. Any suggestions on pacific side towns, etc. in Baja Norte?

BajaBlanca - 7-19-2016 at 02:58 PM

hello and welcome!

Defintely go to asuncion and have fun with the locals. there is an awesome campground if it is not too cold - Shari will get you situated. Be sure to take a day trip and come and discover La Bocana!

I understand that you are not allowed to take back any dog food into the US. Even if it is closed and even if you bought it there!

You are in for a wonderful trip.

ehall - 7-19-2016 at 03:07 PM

It's a long way from Catavina to Guadalupe hot springs. Are you planning on taking the dirt shortcuts or sticking to the pavement? What vehicle will you be in? Truck, motorhome, etc.

SFandH - 7-19-2016 at 03:14 PM

Quote: Originally posted by ericcooke  

Any suggestions on pacific side towns, etc. in Baja Norte?


Google/Google Maps Ejido Erendira (the coastline just north of there) and the campgrounds on the road out to La Bufadora, Punta Banda south of Ensenada.

[Edited on 7-19-2016 by SFandH]

StuckSucks - 7-19-2016 at 03:22 PM

What everyone else has said about cold (wimpy for CO standards) and the wind (substantial, for anyone's standards). A few years ago I camped a little north of Cataviña in November - the next morning I woke up with a layer of ice on my sleeping bag. Certainly manageable, but a little chilly. A tent with rain fly would have solved the problem.

ericcooke - 7-19-2016 at 03:39 PM

BajaBlanca. Thanks! we will add La Bocana to the list!

ehall- we will be travelling in a mildly outfitted Land Rover LR3. (lift, offroad tires, air compressor, sand traxx, etc.) We always prefer the dirt short cuts to pavement. Just seems to be more interesting. We won't go from Catavina to Guadalupe Canyon directly. We will split the drive up and explore some other things on the way. Suggestions?

Stucksucks. If we stay in the Catavina area we will decide on camping vs. hotel based on the weather.

SFand H. Thanks! I'll check those out.

toronja - 7-19-2016 at 03:50 PM

14 days is a great amount of time for that trip. For reference, we went all the way from Eugene, OR to La Paz and back in ~17 days, didn't drive at night much in Baja, and didn't feel particularly rushed (except we always tend to blow through CA both down and back).

I agree with the others on trying to keep flexible dates so that you can stay and explore the places you really like and maybe skip others depending on the weather.

Definitely go see Blanca in La Bocana, and don't forget your fishing rods. Who knows, we may see you in Asuncion ;)

David K - 7-19-2016 at 04:42 PM

Guadalupe Hot Springs should be your first nights or you last nights in Baja, as it is so near the border.

There is a dirt route (Baja 1000 course) south from the canyon to Hwy. 5, but it may be the roughest of your whole trip and instead would suggest you go back up to Hwy. 2 and then over to 5 and San Felipe or reverse if the last nights.

LR3 driver Roy ('The squarecircle' on Nomad) has taken his Land Rover 'Winston') into the worst areas to drive in Baja!
The Widowmaker, near Mission Santa María:







ericcooke - 7-19-2016 at 05:02 PM

We are planning on Guadalupe Canyon for our last night.

LR3s are pretty capable SUVs! Most people are just too afraid of denting or scratching them....not that I want any dents in mine either, but they're built to be used. I love those pictures.

David K - 7-19-2016 at 05:31 PM

Quote: Originally posted by ericcooke  
We are planning on Guadalupe Canyon for our last night.

LR3s are pretty capable SUVs! Most people are just too afraid of denting or scratching them....not that I want any dents in mine either, but they're built to be used. I love those pictures.


Roy, with help from Nomad TMW and others got his LR3 through an abandoned mine road in La Turquesa Canyon (between Gonzaga Bay and Coco's Corner) connecting Route 5 with Hwy. 1...














ericcooke - 7-20-2016 at 06:25 AM

How cool is that?! To take your vehicle on a route that was abandoned and probably to an extent "lost".

I need to reach out to Roy to see if he has ever needed an LR mechanic in Baja. Always something good to know.

ericcooke - 7-20-2016 at 06:49 AM

I just need to verify before I order it. The Baja Almanac that everyone refers to is this one- www.baja-almanac.com?

David K - 7-20-2016 at 06:56 AM

Quote: Originally posted by ericcooke  
I just need to verify before I order it. The Baja Almanac that everyone refers to is this one- www.baja-almanac.com?

Yes, was published in 2009. Baja Bound had some for sale.

ericcooke - 7-20-2016 at 07:17 AM

Thanks! Just ordered one from them.

I know I am not saying anything you don't already know, but the amount of inaccurate/incomplete Baja atlases and maps is impressive. I had not ordered anything because it seems all were lacking.

David K - 7-20-2016 at 08:10 AM

Quote: Originally posted by ericcooke  
Thanks! Just ordered one from them.

I know I am not saying anything you don't already know, but the amount of inaccurate/incomplete Baja atlases and maps is impressive. I had not ordered anything because it seems all were lacking.


True, all maps can have errors and some even on purpose (for copyright evidence).

The 2009 Almanac has many errors, with the latitude figures wrong on several pages being the big one found after we got them in 2009. The other errors are those from INEGI (Mexico's topo map people) with the wrong names for some arroyos and bays, as an example.

2009 Almanac latitude corrections to pencil in:

On Maps 5 & 6, the latitude changes to make: All the 31º figures needs to be 30º (the minutes are fine).

On Map 7: All the 31º figures need to be changed to 29º and the one 30º figure needs to be 28º.

Map 12 [RIGHT side only] latitude figures are wrong, they should be the same numbers as on the left side.

Map 18 degree figures on both sides are wrong: the 25º figures should all be 24º, and the 26º figures should all be 25º.

TMW - 7-20-2016 at 09:47 AM

Quote: Originally posted by ericcooke  
How cool is that?! To take your vehicle on a route that was abandoned and probably to an extent "lost".

I need to reach out to Roy to see if he has ever needed an LR mechanic in Baja. Always something good to know.


Well Roy could have used you in Jan. He had to replace the engine when he got it home. Read about it here, near the end.

http://forums.bajanomad.com/viewthread.php?tid=81801

honda tom - 7-21-2016 at 08:20 AM

ericcooke....... check your U2U

David K - 7-21-2016 at 08:56 AM

Here is the AAA map with the La Turquesa/ Squarecircle/ TW 4x4 shortcut drawn in:



[Edited on 7-21-2016 by David K]

Skipjack Joe - 7-21-2016 at 09:38 AM

The highs should be mid 60's to low 70's. The lows will be mid 50's on the coast and mid 40's inland.

Tenting is comfortable except when the winds get very strong. I've had stand up tents flatten down to my face during gusts. Wind will usually come in 3 day 'storms', the last day being the mildest. It will keep you off the water but otherwise unaffect your activity.

ericcooke - 7-23-2016 at 07:12 AM

David K- that sounded and looked like a great trip. So Roy had to completely replace an LR3 engine? I don't even want to consider the cost involved in that. Maybe I missed it but did he find out if it was a water pump failure or head gasket?
Side note: I am huge Land Rover fan but until we get the diesel versions in the states they will never be as rugged as Toyotas. Unfortunately.

BTW- I am not an LR mechanic. I was hoping he might know of any in Baja if the need arose....sounds like it needs to be towed stateside though.

Thanks for the 2009 Almanac corrections. Greatly appreciated.

David K - 7-23-2016 at 07:27 AM

Roy found a new engine (or rebuilt?) sitting in a warehouse, as I recall his story... Roy reads Nomad, but his computer gives him fits. I will give him a phone call this weekend and get the details for you... unless 'The squarecircle' himself responds here!



Roy getting lunch ready, near Valle de Trinidad, 2006.



Before the LR3, Roy had a customized 4Runner that was unstoppable.
Here we are in front of our vehicles... after doing pit support at the 2006 Baja 500.

TMW - 7-23-2016 at 10:01 AM

Yes Roy got the replacement engine at a good price. I think installed his cost was in the 3-4 thousand range. Problem with old engine was a leaking water hose near top rear of the engine. We never saw it with the cover off. The replacement engine had less miles then the bad one.

ehall - 7-24-2016 at 06:23 AM

Quote: Originally posted by ericcooke  
BajaBlanca. Thanks! we will add La Bocana to the list!

ehall- we will be travelling in a mildly outfitted Land Rover LR3. (lift, offroad tires, air compressor, sand traxx, etc.) We always prefer the dirt short cuts to pavement. Just seems to be more interesting. We won't go from Catavina to Guadalupe Canyon directly. We will split the drive up and explore some other things on the way. Suggestions?

Stucksucks. If we stay in the Catavina area we will decide on camping vs. hotel based on the weather.






SFand H. Thanks! I'll check those out.




Another couple dirt roads. About 10 miles south of San vicente, very scenic road to valle de trinidad. From valle t go west for about 30 miles. Just before ojos negros go north passing thru the forest and by laguna hanson and end up in la rumorosa. Another very nice drive.

BajaMama - 7-27-2016 at 07:14 AM

I always travel with a full sized spare (my SUV has a stupid donut). I like to get pesos from my bank - good exchange rate, a $7.50 shipping charge. Personally I don't like putting my ATM card in the machines down there. Bring your dog's vaccine records for crossing back into the USA. I never get asked, but just in case... I'm sure you already heard the drill for FMMs, Mexican insurance, etc. A passport is mandatory. You can get a pet health certificate from the AVID site, (I know I know this is not "kosher" I fill it in myself and print it out, saves me about $150). But we have only ever been asked for it the one time we flew into Loreto with our dog. Have fun planning, you have lots of time.