BajaNomad

Old Baja

fishbuck - 12-2-2016 at 09:47 PM

I know change is inevitable. The only thing that is constant is change and all that...
How much old Baja is left and how long will it last?
Where is the best place for that old baja feel?
Anybody got any favorites?

David K - 12-2-2016 at 09:58 PM

Anywhere away from a paved road!
We have lost Gonzaga, Asuncion, Abreojos, San Juanico, Comondú, La Purísima, San Javier, San Pedro Mártir, etc. to paved roads the past 10 years.

My favorite 'old Baja' place? Any where still not paved and really that is still most of Baja!

fishbuck - 12-2-2016 at 11:49 PM

I will share a little.
I wanted to go to Jardine's restuarant.
The road to the Old Mill is paved now. It is already bumpy and about to start breaking up. A cheap paving job for sure.
I make the turn to Jardine's and back to dark lonely dirt road. I love that feel.
In the distance beer signs shine like a beacon of welcome.
I walk in and there's that warm friendly feel. The place is lively.
I go into the bar and it's almost full and the tables too. I noticed it's been changed a little. Bar is bigger and the classic horseshoe and moved back a little. Kinda sports bar like.
I find a stool and sit. I look around and I'm the only gringo in the place.
I order a coke. The bartender gives me a look. It evolves in a fraction of a second from confusion to almost contempt. What kind of man orders a coke in a bar. I've just been called out for my lack of macho!
I love it.
I order a carne asada plato. Deliocioso!

The crowd is all local and all rancho. I'm a novelty to them.
The band starts the rancho music. Apparently several of the patrons know the words. And I am serenaded and quite loudly.
An hombre across from me even knows the classic baja " ya ha ha ha! " He gets even better ( and louder) with each shot of tequila!
There are quite a few ladies and some very pretty ones too. Soon it's time to dance.
Mexicans love to dance and be happy.
I almost joined in. I stayed latter than I wanted and made a few friends.
My dinner with 3 cokes... 210 pesos or about 10-11 bucks.
A tip to the bartender and a snarl for the road and I'm gone.
Feeling all warm and fuzzy I vow to return as soon as I can. The dirt road is dark and lonely but my soul is smiling and so am I.

ehall - 12-3-2016 at 07:14 AM

Love the story. If the bartender was the young clean cut kid he wanted you to challenge him. He wants to make you the best margarita , serve you the coldest beer, give you the best tequila. Their food is so good.

wilderone - 12-3-2016 at 08:34 AM

Punta Baja is old style and if you feel comfortable on the road south along the coast there is wonderful (some soft sand and erosion gaps); roads to Mision San Javier and the Comondus are classics -- the ranchero families around Palo Chino are a delight with their way of life and hospitality. Beyond the mission on that road going west, there is a designated protected biosphere area along a bedrock stream with a settlement and ranchos along the way. Toward the end of the road it becomes more open (more away from the casas), but true old Baja feel. The stretch between Asuncion and La Bocana will give you that Baja Feeling. Still plenty of places left, but 4WD becoming more and more necessary. So glad my '66 VW van (and the grace of God) took me to places back in the day when I got Baja fever.

AKgringo - 12-3-2016 at 08:39 AM

Of the towns that I have visited over the years, I think Mulege has changed the least.

Skipjack Joe - 12-3-2016 at 11:01 AM

The Civil War ended in 1865 and the nation turned its attention to the West. By the time Wounded Knee occurred in 1890 all Indians were on reservations and the buffalo were gone. The American West had been transformed.

Bajas's transformation started in 1974 with the paved transpeninsular highway. :no:

mtgoat666 - 12-3-2016 at 11:24 AM

Quote: Originally posted by Skipjack Joe  
The Civil War ended in 1865 and the nation turned its attention to the West. By the time Wounded Knee occurred in 1890 all Indians were on reservations and the buffalo were gone. The American West had been transformed.

Bajas's transformation started in 1974 with the paved transpeninsular highway. :no:


Baja has never been static, it's always in flux...

Baja's transformation started several centuries earlier when the padres killed off natives via disease, and stomped out native cultures and religions

The next big transformation was various revolutions and land reform.

Then came the paved road to connect the peninsula, followed by tourist masses.

Then came cell phones.

Then came facebook that is now how everybody stays in touch in their dispersed families and communities.

Also, throughought the 20th century the fishing industry changed from industrial-scale harvest of the sea to small-scale scraping by, followed by perhaps a bit of resurgence by seafood farming.

Also, the last 20 years have seen rise of narco criminals and organized crime,,... don't yet know how that transformation will play out,...

Skipjack Joe - 12-3-2016 at 01:10 PM

There's a reason why Krutch titled his book "The Forgotten Peninsula". Well, since then (1961), it's been remembered.

sancho - 12-3-2016 at 03:21 PM

Hopped off a bus at the Cape from TJ in '83, there were a couple luxury
Hotels, Twin Dolphins, Solmar, what's the name of the one
the hill overlooking the Solmar? Stayed at the Mar de Cortez
downtown, somewhere around $14, I think many streets were
dirt. That time was probably when things started to develop.
Back in those days, it was impossible to get info. except
the Baja Book 3 and the AAA baja book. Lack of info. did
lead to adventure around every corner







[Edited on 12-3-2016 by sancho]

fishbuck - 12-3-2016 at 04:08 PM

Punta Baja is very old school Baja. I love it out there.