The Posada at Plaza Artes y Tradaciones, where I live, is the most incredibly quiet back courtyard in all of the city of Oaxaca. This quiteness is
just a few blocks up from one of the most famos zocolos in the westen world and a block and half from Santa Domingo Church, both of these locations
are hubs of activity day and night.
After many years of taco grabbing off the streets, my day of bacterial revenge was due. Last time I recall a serious bout of tourista was mid 70?s for
crine out loud. So, yep, last Monday night a few hours after 3 tacos de pastor and 1 taco de gringa at my favorite taco stand up by the bus station, I
wiped out with a case of samonelia that gave me visions of death. Sure slept more on than off for 3 days, pretty much fell into total isolation,
couldn't even keep down fruit, but of course I was to cheap to go to see a doctor. And quite frankly, at one point, I couldn't even have made it out
the door to go find one.
This isolation lasted until Thursday. I lived in total darkness, fading in and out of conciousness, total quite with the exception of an ocasonal
check by my dear friends Armando and Xot's, who daily brought me fresh papaya-carrot juice mixed with aloe vera gel, a sure firer healer put togeather
for me by the best, bless Lupe and Geri at Angeles Juice stand up at the neighborhood market. But, not even all their good intentions could I barely
swallow, what more keep down.
So finally, I come out of my simi-consious state on Thursday with a sure fired conviction that the world has abandoned Oaxaca. I wander down to the
Zocolo to find a hub of Triqui indians, (the women wear in the most beautiful red wool huipals), are mounted all over the Zocolo, there are 100's in
town for what I am sure is a most justified protest, (always is, isn't it?).
And of course intemingling amongst the pow wow of these groupings of angry indians sitting in circles here, there, everywhere are 100?s of gringo
tourist, all marching around with their name tages on strings hanging around their neck. And of course I reflect that these two groups who never
interereact (unless it is over a monerary transaction in regard to the Triqui's pension to be ethnic clothing merchents and the gringos fasicanation
with the artisana of such wares), are somehow completly where they belong and there doing what they should be doing, and really everyone is just fine,
comfortable as all gid-out with the exisitence of one another.
And then, there in the middle of this turmoil of this coexisting bubbling over of humainity stands Don Luis playing his heart out on the saxaphone
"They asked me How I knew if Our True Love is True", and it just couldn't have been a more perfectly Oaxacan cross cultural moment, and I wondered if
anyone else was getting the perfect hamonious picture of the situation.
I wandered back up towards home, and just as I crossed Santa Domingo, here is a parade starting up, with the giant dancing paper mache dolls flopping
and dancing around, and 4 teenagers in tux and evening gowns on stilts, and the umpapa band going full board, and loads of little kids dressed in red
and white and traditional costumes, encircled in tons of red & white ballons everywhere and it is just a little tiny parade in celebration of Love of
Humanity. A tear rolls down my cheek, it is just all to sweet, and I smile and chuckle as I wander back to bed in the quiteness of the Posada where I
live; I tell ya, I just Love this town, it is equally as corny as me, yep, I think I am where I need to be.
[Edited on 2-20-2005 by Eli]
[Edited on 2-21-2005 by Eli]woody with a view - 2-20-2005 at 07:42 PM
madam, as usual, your vivid recollections bring back a flood of my own visions, now permanently locked in the vault.
Quote:
I just Love this town, it is equally as corny as me, yep, I think I am where I need to be.
i relish the thought that you are "where you need to be". so many of us know where we need to be, yet few realize their dreams.
buenas noches amiga!
Eli - 2-20-2005 at 09:05 PM
Woody, glad to bring back good memories that aren't real so far locked away, just need a little dust shook off of them, and they are as good as new.
Yes, I agree, I am very very lucky to have found this time in my life. Although, reflecting on it, it was pretty much (not always) fun the whole road
to get here. For me, it has been a grand adventure, this simple life of mine.Mike Humfreville - 2-21-2005 at 11:17 AM
What a pleasure to wake up on a day off work and find your story. It sounds from your thoughts, though, that you might be wrestling with your
decision to get back to Baja???
Write on.Eli - 2-21-2005 at 08:28 PM
Glad you enjoyed the words Mike.
Yes for sure I am going home week from Tuesday. Just may have discovered that I have two homes. Here and Los Barriles. Or, when I get there, I may
discover that I only have one, Oaxaca.
