BajaNomad

Mountain Roads around Loreto

Gscott - 11-3-2017 at 08:46 PM

I'll be flying to Loreto later this month.. I'd like to try to explore the mountains west of Loreto a bit, at a minimum, and hopefully drive through to the Pacific Side. I'd prefer to make the Hwy 1 loop through La Purisima and out, down to Ciudad Insurgentes, and back up the inside. But obviously I'll be doing it in a rented car or perhaps a 4x4 like a stock jeep wrangler or toyota tacoma.

What is the condition of the gravel "Hwy 1" road north of Loreto at KM 59 west through San Isidro and La Purisima? Will a standard rental car make this trip, even at a grueling slow pace? (with new tires and careful driving). The jeep?

Or, what about the gravel road continuing south out of San Javier? How far will I get in a rental car before running into trouble crossing streams and such? Is a rental jeep fine to make this trip to Santo Domingo?

Anyone have suggestions to get up in the hills to explore a little bit?

Last year I went as far as San Javier, Mulege and Tripui but never left the pavement. Maybe I missed some opportunities?

Or do I need to stay on pavement until I can get my own vehicle down there? Thanks!

[Edited on 11-4-2017 by Gscott]

David K - 11-3-2017 at 09:42 PM

See my Trip #2 trip report for a lot of the route you seek. The road from Hwy. 1 to San Isidro is very very rough after 10 miles plus the Baja 1000 is using it in a couple weeks.

Gscott - 11-3-2017 at 10:32 PM

I did read your report from last February and enjoyed it. I had been there in January this year and visited many of the same locations between Puerto Escondido and Mulege and San Javier. Thanks for that. I do remember you said the road to San Isidiro was rough, but just re-read and you said trucks only. How much ground clearance is required? I will be there just after the 1000 is complete. What is their impact to the road conditions, exactly? At this point I'd have to assume a wrangler or tacoma will be able to complete this road but not a rental sedan.

From your report and others I believe the road from San Javier to los Comondus is straight out of the question. I won't have tools but for the jack and will be solo. So I don't want to get too silly.

That leaves the road south from San Javier. And I don't believe that is covered in your report. Anyone have a report for that route this time of year?

Were there many bad storms this year that affected roads? I didn't hear of anything too bad, but am interested in more recent information if it exists..

David K - 11-4-2017 at 09:56 AM

Quote: Originally posted by Gscott  
I did read your report from last February and enjoyed it. I had been there in January this year and visited many of the same locations between Puerto Escondido and Mulege and San Javier. Thanks for that. I do remember you said the road to San Isidiro was rough, but just re-read and you said trucks only. How much ground clearance is required? I will be there just after the 1000 is complete. What is their impact to the road conditions, exactly? At this point I'd have to assume a wrangler or tacoma will be able to complete this road but not a rental sedan.

From your report and others I believe the road from San Javier to los Comondus is straight out of the question. I won't have tools but for the jack and will be solo. So I don't want to get too silly.

That leaves the road south from San Javier. And I don't believe that is covered in your report. Anyone have a report for that route this time of year?

Were there many bad storms this year that affected roads? I didn't hear of anything too bad, but am interested in more recent information if it exists..



The Hwy. 1 (south of Bahía Concepción) to San Isidro ( next to La Purísima) road is just pure hell unless you are in no hurry. I am sure some local sedans go over it, but shouldn't. It is definitely for pickups or SUVs. Especially after the Baja 1000 tears it up even more.

The road from San Javier to Comondú was reported fixed after my February trip. A Nomad reported about the bulldozer operator fixing the road (in March maybe?) drove it off the road and rolled it? In any case, that really bad grade up, then down between Palo Chino and El Horno was the only 4WD part of the road and it may have been fixed since I was on it.

That being the case going to Comondú is probably fine in a 2WD truck now. It is a better drive than the San Isidro to Hwy. 1 road we just talked about! The Comondú to San Isidro road is very good... only bumpy for a couple miles as you climb out of the Comondú valley.

I did not drive the San Javier south to Santo Domingo area road but others here have. A few stream crossings but nothing needing 4WD is what I gathered. Remember, you have paved roads going to La Purísima, San Isidro, and San Miguel Comondú, from the south, and San Javier from the east. The only road I would not recommend is the San Isidro to Hwy. 1 road.

I look forward to your trip report and photos!

AKgringo - 11-4-2017 at 10:45 AM

Just after Thanksgiving last year, I drove all three roads you are talking about. I would agree with Davids assessment of the roads going north from the San Javier road, and west from highway one, with one concern. Tropical storm Lidia washed that area pretty good at the end of August. I don't recall reports of damage or repairs since then.

The road south and west from San Javier was in pretty good shape, and I never felt a need to put the hubs in, but as DK mentioned, there are numerous arroyo crossings! None of them were deep enough, or soft enough to be a problem, but again there are no recent reports of damage or repairs.

The road running north to La Purisima was my favorite, or you could head west through San Miguel Commondu on a paved road. Maybe do a loop headed north and west, then south to the turn off near Santo Domingo, then west back through San Javier to Loreto again.

KurtG - 11-4-2017 at 11:10 AM

Quote: Originally posted by David K  
Quote: Originally posted by Gscott  
I did read your report from last February and enjoyed it. I had been there in January this year and visited many of the same locations between Puerto Escondido and Mulege and San Javier. Thanks for that. I do remember you said the road to San Isidiro was rough, but just re-read and you said trucks only. How much ground clearance is required? I will be there just after the 1000 is complete. What is their impact to the road conditions, exactly? At this point I'd have to assume a wrangler or tacoma will be able to complete this road but not a rental sedan.

From your report and others I believe the road from San Javier to los Comondus is straight out of the question. I won't have tools but for the jack and will be solo. So I don't want to get too silly.

That leaves the road south from San Javier. And I don't believe that is covered in your report. Anyone have a report for that route this time of year?

Were there many bad storms this year that affected roads? I didn't hear of anything too bad, but am interested in more recent information if it exists..



The road from San Javier to Comondú was reported fixed after my February trip. A Nomad reported about the bulldozer operator fixing the road (in March maybe?) drove it off the road and rolled it? In any case, that really bad grade up, then down between Palo Chino and El Horno was the only 4WD part of the road and it may have been fixed since I was on it.

That being the case going to Comondú is probably fine in a 2WD truck now. It is a better drive than the San Isidro to Hwy. 1 road we just talked about! The Comondú to San Isidro road is very good... only bumpy for a couple miles as you climb out of the Comondú valley.


That was my report from March, it was not a dozer but a large front end loader that lost its brakes near the top of the grade. The young operator put it on its side and skidded to a stop against the cliff side. Only had a few scratches but plenty of adrenalin. He had a very close call. I have heard nothing about that road since the summer rains. There is a good possibility that I will be on that road in two weeks and if so will post conditions. I agree that the road east from San Isidro was in very bad shape. I was in low range for many miles. A friend was pre-running that section this week and is due home today. I asked him to call me about that section and if I learn anything I will post it. I am leaving Monday, motorcycling to Mulege/Loreto where I am meeting a friend who keeps a 4wd Bronco there which we plan to take on that route. That should be around 11/13-14.

David K - 11-4-2017 at 12:23 PM

Thank you, both (Kurt and AK) for supplementing!
I look forward to the updates.
Baja Nomad is a fantastic resource because many of us take the time to share here!

Gscott - 11-4-2017 at 10:12 PM

Thanks for the input all.
I had read Kurt's report, I believe, if he was riding a moto. It sounded pretty rough, and since there haven't been recent reports I had ruled it out. Maybe that will be an option after all.

Beagle - 11-5-2017 at 11:01 AM

Not sure you asked about it but we just did the dirt road from Comondu to La Purisima/San Isidro. We were in a rental Jeep Wrangler. Trying to connect mission to mission on a loop we were doing. It was pretty gnarly back in there. Slow going and high clearance. Would not attempt in anything lower than a Jeep or truck. Only traffic we saw were 2 KTMs. Sure was gorgeous in there though.

KurtG - 11-5-2017 at 11:05 AM

Quote: Originally posted by Gscott  
Thanks for the input all.
I had read Kurt's report, I believe, if he was riding a moto. It sounded pretty rough, and since there haven't been recent reports I had ruled it out. Maybe that will be an option after all.


No moto on that trip, I was in our old 4wd Explorer.

Sweetwater - 11-5-2017 at 06:15 PM

Quote: Originally posted by Beagle  
Not sure you asked about it but we just did the dirt road from Comondu to La Purisima/San Isidro. We were in a rental Jeep Wrangler. Trying to connect mission to mission on a loop we were doing. It was pretty gnarly back in there. Slow going and high clearance. Would not attempt in anything lower than a Jeep or truck. Only traffic we saw were 2 KTMs. Sure was gorgeous in there though.


Yup, that's what I'd expect.
I went through both Comondu and La Purisima in March and the roads were gnarly then. With weather and the Baja Mil, I can cross them off this years list. The road west from San Javier hasn't ever been as gnarly in the years I've been riding through.

tehag - 11-5-2017 at 06:57 PM

Loreto to La Purisima on pavement since the August rain is OK in any car. That said, the locals discouraged us in a GMC Yukon from trying to continue to Comondu through San Isidro. They said the washes were still pretty bad.

Tried on another day in a big Ford Diesel 4WD to go from the turnoff from the San Javier road to Comondú and bailed out with a very iffy turnabout after maybe 10 miles. Not water, just very eroded roadbed.

South route through San Javier will probably still have some water fording issues in the first 10 miles from SJ, but should be OK the rest of the way to Santo Domingo. I think that's 68K of big gravel and washboard. Not a very nice thing to do to your car to get somewhere that has much easier access.

As far as after the 1,000 goes; all bets off, they can leave a hell of a mess that takes weeks to get back to normally bad.

AKgringo - 11-5-2017 at 08:06 PM

Quote: Originally posted by Sweetwater  


The road west from San Javier hasn't ever been as gnarly in the years I've been riding through.


Sweetwater, do you mean that the road west hasn't ever been as gnarly as the other roads, or as it is right now?

I believe that I was fortunate to drive that route then north to the Commondus after it had been repaired enough to run a race on it.

The same thing happened on the run from San Isidro over to hwy 1 in 2014. It was reported to be 'impassable' after Norbert and Odile, but emergency repairs were made to get it open enough for the Baja 1k.

David K - 11-6-2017 at 10:55 AM

To help with any confusion about what roads are being discussed...



I traveled the dirt roads here last February and the paved roads to La Purísima and Comondú last August.

The small section I labeled '4WD' between Palo Chino and El Horno may have been repaired since February. The rest of the road from San Javier to Comondú was perfectly fine for 2WD.

The road from Comondú to San Isidro (La Purísima) was very fast except for a couple of rough miles leaving the Comondú valley.

The road northeast from Comondú was abandoned and had no traffic on the north end, near the junction to Rancho San Juan (and to the Comondú Viejo ruins).

The road from San Isidro (near La Purísima) to Hwy. 1, north of Loreto was VERY BAD, rocky, rough, slow, not maintained... except for the 10 miles nearest Hwy. 1, which were smooth.

[Edited on 11-6-2017 by David K]

David K - 11-6-2017 at 10:59 AM



As noted, the road from Loreto to San Javier is paved and maintained. The road from San Javier on west to near Santo Domingo is graded dirt.

y2kbaja - 11-6-2017 at 04:23 PM

I think that was me that reported the rolled tractor between Comondu and San Javier as I was there in March and there was a rolled tractor. I would not recommend this road by yourself in a rental vehicle. It was very rock and used by local off-road race series. With a travel buddy and off-road tires and a couple spares it's a fun section.

David K - 11-6-2017 at 04:42 PM

Quote: Originally posted by y2kbaja  
I think that was me that reported the rolled tractor between Comondu and San Javier as I was there in March and there was a rolled tractor. I would not recommend this road by yourself in a rental vehicle. It was very rock and used by local off-road race series. With a travel buddy and off-road tires and a couple spares it's a fun section.


Thanks!
I hope to hear from anyone who has driven between San Javier and Comondú since March to confirm the road has graded up and down that mesa. It was pretty gnarly last February, but only on those two grades.

AKgringo - 11-6-2017 at 04:50 PM

When I drove that section last year, the washed out areas had been repaired, or at least made passable for a race. The couple of gnarly spots that I remember on the steeper section were down to bed rock. A grader can't do much with that!

Desertbull - 11-7-2017 at 07:21 AM

just drove this last week in my dodge 4WD w/37's and it was easy ... nothing different and no grading but it didn't really need it ... the steep section is hard rock and it wasn't gnarly just go slow ... the rest was, "well Baja beauty" ... always love it because it sees such little traffic ... also ran thru the No Wimps on the same trip in the truck for the first time in a year or so and its all cleaned up WITH a grader

Desertbull - 11-7-2017 at 07:31 AM

K59.5 to La Purisma ... That's backwards on the Baja 1000 course ... their will be race traffic on that until Nov 18/19 as race vehicles are recovered etc...and after it will be chewed up from the race traffic ... 2 weeks ago I went thru San Javier to Insurgentes and their were many water crossings and the rocks at the crossings were loose but I am sure by the time the race is complete they will be fine. It was green green and more green back there.

Quote: Originally posted by Gscott  
I'll be flying to Loreto later this month.. I'd like to try to explore the mountains west of Loreto a bit, at a minimum, and hopefully drive through to the Pacific Side. I'd prefer to make the Hwy 1 loop through La Purisima and out, down to Ciudad Insurgentes, and back up the inside. But obviously I'll be doing it in a rented car or perhaps a 4x4 like a stock jeep wrangler or toyota tacoma.

What is the condition of the gravel "Hwy 1" road north of Loreto at KM 59 west through San Isidro and La Purisima? Will a standard rental car make this trip, even at a grueling slow pace? (with new tires and careful driving). The jeep?

Or, what about the gravel road continuing south out of San Javier? How far will I get in a rental car before running into trouble crossing streams and such? Is a rental jeep fine to make this trip to Santo Domingo?

Anyone have suggestions to get up in the hills to explore a little bit?

Last year I went as far as San Javier, Mulege and Tripui but never left the pavement. Maybe I missed some opportunities?

Or do I need to stay on pavement until I can get my own vehicle down there? Thanks!

[Edited on 11-4-2017 by Gscott]

David K - 11-7-2017 at 09:34 AM

Thanks Tim, so it sounds like to go from San Javier to Comondú, a 4WD may still be needed for the mesa climb/drop?

JZ - 11-7-2017 at 11:05 AM

Quote: Originally posted by Desertbull  
just drove this last week in my dodge 4WD w/37's and it was easy ... nothing different and no grading but it didn't really need it ... the steep section is hard rock and it wasn't gnarly just go slow ... the rest was, "well Baja beauty" ... always love it because it sees such little traffic ...


What part are you talking about right now, San Javier to Comondú/La Purisima.

Or La Purisima to Hwy 1?

We have been jumping around and just want to be clear.

Tehag indicated Javier to La Purisima to be pretty difficult right now.


[Edited on 11-7-2017 by JZ]

David K - 11-7-2017 at 11:22 AM

JZ, he was responding to the San Javier to Comondú road question with that answer.

Tehag was talking about different roads and he did not say when locals discouraged him from the Comondú to San Isidro drive. I can tell you once you were out of the Comondú valley drainage you were 'flying' on the mesa top to San Isidro last February. How often 'locals' drive these roads vs the trend to be polite and provide an answer is worth thinking of too.

JZ - 11-7-2017 at 11:36 AM

Good. We are going ride our bikes through there, truck following, in the next couple weeks.



[Edited on 11-7-2017 by JZ]

AKgringo - 11-7-2017 at 03:41 PM

Quote: Originally posted by JZ  
Good. We are going ride our bikes through there, truck following, in the next couple weeks.


I sure hope you are able to avoid rush hour. When I did that route last Thanksgiving, I encountered two German tourists on bicycles!

They said that it was part of a published trekking route called "The Baja divide"! I can envision bicycles getting jammed up at some of the technical areas, tempers flaring, trek rage, the works! :tumble:

On edit; That was the only traffic I encountered

[Edited on 11-7-2017 by AKgringo]

tehag - 11-7-2017 at 04:39 PM

All my updates were in the past 2 months.

David K - 11-7-2017 at 04:43 PM

Thanks tehag.
Too bad if that road advice caused you to not see La Purísima. Once you were out of the Comondú canyon, it was one of the better roads in Baja I have been on this year.

JZ - 11-7-2017 at 06:03 PM

Quote: Originally posted by tehag  
All my updates were in the past 2 months.


So were you saying San Javier to Comondú is pretty tough right now?

David K - 11-7-2017 at 06:20 PM

Just the grades up and down the mesa (between Palo Chino and El Horno).

Desert Bull said (above) it was no problem, although, like me, he drives a 4WD truck (his is much bigger and heavier). Just use low range and go slow over the rough spots... it is Baja, after all.

If it wasn't improved by that skip loader or anyone else, then it is probably how I reported it in February (see my map above where it says 4WD). tehag didn't drive his GMC over it, he turned back.

JZ - 11-7-2017 at 10:44 PM

We are going to find out soon. Got about 6 rides planned out over 12 days.




[Edited on 11-8-2017 by BajaNomad]

y2kbaja - 11-8-2017 at 07:14 AM

I guess I should add when we came upon the rolled dozer in March the car in front of us was a local in a Honda CRV.

David K - 11-8-2017 at 09:57 AM

Quote: Originally posted by y2kbaja  
I guess I should add when we came upon the rolled dozer in March the car in front of us was a local in a Honda CRV.


Locals drive all sorts of cars into places tourists would never try! :light::lol:

Gscott - 11-11-2017 at 08:43 PM

Well. Thank you everyone for the input. I'm not sure what to make of it all, however. I guess I'll either go for it or I won't.

I wanted to go to La Purisima / San Isidro but I'm just not interested in driving all the way around on pavement, at least not both ways. I really wanted to get into the mountains. And most of the westside road looks horribly boring.

Maybe I'll go to South out of San Javier and if I have to turn around I will. It sounds like that is the best option in a rental sedan.

And thanks David for the map. It helped put it all together. I am pretty unfamiliar with the area and the town names and get confused easily. But let me ask; what is the difference between 'rough' and '4wd'? Does 'rough' require high clearance or just slow going? I assume '4wd' requires high clearance, 4x4 and low range?

David K - 11-11-2017 at 11:30 PM

Quote: Originally posted by Gscott  
Well. Thank you everyone for the input. I'm not sure what to make of it all, however. I guess I'll either go for it or I won't.

I wanted to go to La Purisima / San Isidro but I'm just not interested in driving all the way around on pavement, at least not both ways. I really wanted to get into the mountains. And most of the westside road looks horribly boring.

Maybe I'll go to South out of San Javier and if I have to turn around I will. It sounds like that is the best option in a rental sedan.

And thanks David for the map. It helped put it all together. I am pretty unfamiliar with the area and the town names and get confused easily. But let me ask; what is the difference between 'rough' and '4wd'? Does 'rough' require high clearance or just slow going? I assume '4wd' requires high clearance, 4x4 and low range?


'Rough' means rocky roadbed and slow driving for most of us... but 2WD is fine, however no low sports cars, naturally.

Pickups and SUVs are what anyone driving off the pavement in Baja should have, 4WD if you want to have extra insurance you can get through without drastic measures or damaging your vehicle since 4WD allows you to crawl slowly up steep grades whereas 2WD requires a run at it for momentum.

'4WD' means steep grades up or down. 4WD low range makes the worst parts easy for the experienced. Tire placement is crucial to have a safe drive. Always put your tires on the high parts of the road so you give the underside of your vehicle maximum clearance from rocks or high crown centers. Save the oil pan, gas tank, muffler, driveline!

The Rough Road from San Isidro east to Hwy. 1 was really just no fun to drive and I would avoid it. The best part was the view of the Purísima Valley and El Pilón from the grade climbing out of the valley.

The 4WD parts of the road between San Javier Hwy. and San José Comondú means that if they didn't regrade it since my trip last February, you really should have 4WD, but locals in pickups (or Honda Pilots) apparently get through.

The road from Comondú north (or northwest) to San Isidro/La Purísima was very good, recently repaired as of last February with only the first couple of miles climbing away from Comondú being 'rough' driving. I think it is all detailed in my Trip #2 report.

You can make some interesting pretzel-like driving loops to see all the oasis towns and avoid the 4WD or long rough section I mentioned. Don't let Bad roads stop you having a Good time! Just drive slow, don't be in a hurry when you arrive... I was on a time schedule and only over-nighted in La Purísima at the tiny semi-rustic motel there, it was quite fine with 300 channels of satellite TV, even! Spend time in both Comondú villages as well around La Purísma. They have installed many informative signs and whitewashed rock-lined paths to see the mission dam and oasis. More done when I was there last August from last February.

Gasoline: Have plenty, top off at the closest Pemex. Independents do sell gas out if cans in San Miguel Comondú (and other places), but you need to ask (quietly)where, as the governor still has ruled this activity illegal (but highly necessary do to the void of Pemex stations.

[Edited on 11-12-2017 by David K]

Marc - 11-19-2017 at 08:28 AM

Rent a Jeep and be sure you are insured for off pavement. The road from San Javier to San Isidro was OK in my 4X4 Tundra last April. Hotel in Comondu is very nice. Hotels in S Isidro less so. Return south on paved roads with many really bad potholes on the main highway. Go slow there.

liknbaja127 - 11-19-2017 at 09:20 AM

We will be doing the road San Javier, to Comondu, to San Isidro, to
San Juanico. next week. We did the same last year, road was great
with the Bronco. Also saw the Germans on the bicycle's! Crazy"s!


David K - 11-19-2017 at 09:39 AM

Looking forward to your trip report!

Gscott - 11-20-2017 at 05:34 PM

Quote: Originally posted by Marc  
Rent a Jeep and be sure you are insured for off pavement. The road from San Javier to San Isidro was OK in my 4X4 Tundra last April. Hotel in Comondu is very nice. Hotels in S Isidro less so. Return south on paved roads with many really bad potholes on the main highway. Go slow there.


You can reserve a jeep wrangler 4x4 in Loreto. Having a reservation will have no bearing on whether there is actually a jeep wrangler 4x4 available, however. Ask me how I know. I did arrange for a 2wd jeep liberty later this week. I think. Supposedly.

So we'll see how that goes. Thanks for the tips!


EDIT: Nope, the rental car company failed to provide the 2wd jeep too. So no off pavement adventure for me, disappointed. No report will be forthcoming.

[Edited on 11-28-2017 by Gscott]