BajaNomad

Never Been on HWY 5

TLBaja79 - 8-14-2018 at 01:31 PM

Been going to Baja for 30 years now and always gone down on Hwy 1. We are going to mix it up and go down Hwy 5 this time. Probably cut over from Ensenada on Hwy 3.
I'm familiar with many hotels, restaurants, gas station rip offs, road intricacies, etc on Hwy 1
Looking for info on Hwy 5 (How far south can I count on getting gas? Good restaurants along the way? Places to stay as far south as possible, Gonzaga Bay? etc.....)

Is Alfonsinas a legit spot to stay? Eat? What would you compare it to? Jardines? as far as cleanliness and security and quality?

Thanks for the info in advance

JZ - 8-14-2018 at 01:40 PM

Alfonsinas is a way better location that Jardins. It's right on the beach with a spectacular view.

They have gotten a tad pricey lately and started an all inclusive style this year, where you get a couple meals.

Their food has always been very good. Service/hospitality was better in the past.

If you are just getting a room for a day or two, you should go for it.

Btw, the drive down the 5 is much better than the 1.

rts551 - 8-14-2018 at 02:24 PM

Hard to compare the 2. HWy 1 has lots of restaurants and hotels. HWY 5 haqs San Felipe and then very little below that except for Rancho Grande/Gonzaga. We will not stay at Alfonsinas. They are very overpriced and the food has gotten lousy. There is gas there.

Nothing between San Felipe and Bahia Gonzaga with the exception of a few fishing campos, some of which rent rustic rooms.

David K - 8-14-2018 at 02:33 PM

Apple and Oranges, TL.
Hwy 5 is a desert road with few population centers, just the opposite of Hwy. 1. That's in-part why it is a faster corridor from north to south. Great ocean (sea) views.

San Felipe is the one city, with everything.

At km. 35-36 is a small town of Colonia Delicias with good food places (Chelo's) that service the many vacation homes along the coast.

At km. 73 is CowPatty, the gringo cantina for Puertecitos area vacation homes... they serve hot dogs.

At km. 74.5 is the paved side road into Puertecitos, a village on a cove. Hot Springs at in the tidal zone out near the end of the point. 200 pesos to enter the area.

At km. 83 is Bahia Cristina with a weekend restaurant.

At km. 133.5 is the road 1 mile to La Poma, good food!

At km. 143+ is the road to Papa Fernandez', 1.1 miles, good food, Gonzaga Bay.

At km. 147 is the gas station and road to Alfonsina's, 1.8 miles.
The Rancho Grande market is just past the road, and on the right.

Last year, pavement ended in 12 more miles, at Km. 167 with construction and some paved sections on to Laguna Chapala on Hwy. 1, about 20 additional miles by the new highway.

Hwy. 5 photos

David K - 8-14-2018 at 03:02 PM


Nearing Km. 0, six miles/10 kms. south of San Felipe Traffic Circle


Km. 20.5+


Km. 31


Km. 32


Km. 35.5


Km. 99


Km. 114


Km. 143 (view of Gonzaga Bay)


Km. 143+


Km. 147+, from the south.


South from Gonzaga, looking north.


South from Gonzaga, looking north.


Km. 167.5 (end of pavement in 2017)

I have photos of what is on the coast, in from the signs I posted above, too. See my Trip Report #1 from 2017, as well.

Hook - 8-14-2018 at 03:16 PM

Assuming a San Diego departure point, what is everyone's opinion on which route would be fastest and which would be slowest to the end of Hwy 5 at Nuevo Chapala? Hwy 1 or Hwy 5? Or taking Hwy 3 from Ensenada via Hwy 1 from SD?

JZ - 8-14-2018 at 03:29 PM

If I was already in SD I'd probably go the 1. Coming from LA the 5 for sure. Avoids SD and TJ, and all the traffic of Hwy 1. Hwy 5 is wide open, desert driving.




[Edited on 8-14-2018 by JZ]

[Edited on 8-22-2018 by BajaNomad]

SFandH - 8-14-2018 at 03:32 PM

IMHO, starting in San Diego and taking any other route than crossing at San Ysidro and taking highway 1 all the way down doesn't make much sense. I think it's the fastest and shortest. TJ is no problem, there is not even one stop sign between the border and the toll road and you can sail through Ensenada if you leave early Sunday morning.

[Edited on 8-14-2018 by SFandH]

MMc - 8-14-2018 at 03:45 PM

Most days it's 10 to 15 minute different to Chapala from my house, I chose to take 1. I have been on 5 and find it so, so. No support, not much gas, few hotels, I'll take to change the drive, the road itself is pretty crappy over all.

If I had not been on 5 before I would take it. Sure is better than the old road. IMHO

[Edited on 8-14-2018 by MMc]

Russ - 8-14-2018 at 05:25 PM

I just made the drive up Mex 1. I saw more cows on the road than I have for years. At least 12 different places. Also deer bob cat and a few coyotes. Yes. most of those were during the dark hours and I kept the speed around 50 so I could stop within the head light range. The BAD was after San Quintin more traffic than I can remember and the slow cars really backed up traffic around all the pueblos. The not so newly built northern check point backed traffic up about one hour and cars were almost to the to of the hill when I started down. Oh, they wern't using the covered area at all for their searches just did it all on the highway. I may consider hwy 5 for the next trip. Border wait was over 2 hours at TJ.

thebajarunner - 8-14-2018 at 06:18 PM

Do a circle route!!
I always try to take a different track returning from any destination when available.
Why repeat a route when new territory is available???
See all that you can see.....

boe4fun - 8-14-2018 at 06:51 PM

I would not, under any circumstances, stay at Alphonsina’s. Stayed there a couple of years ago. At first they denied that I had made a reservation, but finally they agreed to get us a room. Food at the restaurant was so so. After all of this they wouldn’t start the generator for the A/C until 8 PM. The room was like an oven and the little A/C unit underperformed. In addition they don’t have any wall plugs so no C-PAP machine that night. All in all a most miserable experience. Never again.

JZ - 8-14-2018 at 07:13 PM

Quote: Originally posted by boe4fun  
I would not, under any circumstances, stay at Alphonsina’s. Stayed there a couple of years ago. At first they denied that I had made a reservation, but finally they agreed to get us a room. Food at the restaurant was so so. After all of this they wouldn’t start the generator for the A/C until 8 PM. The room was like an oven and the little A/C unit underperformed. In addition they don’t have any wall plugs so no C-PAP machine that night. All in all a most miserable experience. Never again.


Take this input with a huge grain of salt op.

Agree in hot months you might want to avoid, particularly if you don't deal well with heat.

But this guy had one bad experience and is one of those types that extrapolates from there.

JZ - 8-14-2018 at 07:15 PM

Quote: Originally posted by Russ  
I just made the drive up Mex 1. I saw more cows on the road than I have for years. At least 12 different places. Also deer bob cat and a few coyotes. Yes. most of those were during the dark hours and I kept the speed around 50 so I could stop within the head light range. The BAD was after San Quintin more traffic than I can remember and the slow cars really backed up traffic around all the pueblos. The not so newly built northern check point backed traffic up about one hour and cars were almost to the to of the hill when I started down. Oh, they wern't using the covered area at all for their searches just did it all on the highway. I may consider hwy 5 for the next trip. Border wait was over 2 hours at TJ.


This isn't that uncommon on the 1. We drive the 5 all the time at night. Very little traffic.

bajaric - 8-15-2018 at 08:06 AM

I have not driven south of Maneadero for years, but gather that the traffic is pretty heavy around San Quintin, and that is after you get past all the traffic signals in Ensenada and twisty mountain roads. The 5 by comparison is an easy drive, very little traffic, relaxing kind of driving. (take it slow on the vados and dirt sections) The road from Ensenada across to El Chinero on 3 is kind of sketchy for the first ten miles, narrow, twisty, and lots of trucks; after Ojos Negros it is easy. I think faster to take the 8 to Mexicali unless you want to avoid Mexicali. The main issue with taking the 5 is that once you are south of San Felipe there is a dearth of lodgings and services; expensive Alphonsina's with its mixed reviews is the only hotel other than some "rustic" cabin places that may or may not be open on any given day and some Palapa campgrounds. Camping along there is nice if you like the desert; lots of stars, quiet enough to hear the wings of the birds as they fly by, and the Sea of Cortez can stunning in its blue brilliance. Can also be windy and buggy. Another option is to stay in San Felipe and push through to Guerrero Negro the next day. Some people don't like San Felipe, don't know why, you can get a clean room with a pool and a bar, what more do you need?

As far as safety, there have been some ongoing theft issues in the "South Campos" but they seem to target vacant houses more than campers. A lot of people with houses there leave them vacant in the summer....because it is HOT. I never drive at night in Baja, to me that implies poor planning, but if I did, it would be on the 5.

willardguy - 8-15-2018 at 09:54 AM

if you've never been on hwy5 you're due, 50 mile stretch from Puerecitos to Gonzaga Bay is lovely, the rest, well you decide.
Alfonsina's? well they gotcha.

TLBaja79 - 8-15-2018 at 04:13 PM

Thanks for the info
Sounds like the highway part is pleasant on the 5. Maybe camp on the beach somewhere down close to Gonzaga Bay...
Alfonsina's isn't the best but its the only hotel in the area. Maybe we'll camp out that night

TLBaja79 - 8-15-2018 at 04:35 PM

What about camping in Punta Final?
Or Calamuje?

Safe, Secure for the night? Nice place to camp? Are others around, camping, fish camp....

willardguy - 8-15-2018 at 05:02 PM

I like Calamujue......but I wouldn't camp there without a group of people. Papa's campground is spartan but safe. grab a spot all the way to the north end.

bajaric - 8-15-2018 at 05:13 PM

Calamuje has a bad reputation. You can search for info on Punta Final camping on this forum, also DK posted a trip report with descriptions of the established campos around the Gonzaga area. (Beluga, Rancho Grande, Papa Fernandez) Not many people around in the summer, the fish camps pack up and leave. Have fun!

David K - 8-17-2018 at 08:31 PM

Just back from driving Hwy. 5 all the way to the south end, using the newest sections that are passable.
The dirt section is shorter but the road surface is pretty bad, again. No motorhomes recommended! In addition, there are 7 unpaved detour miles north of Puertecitos.
I will provide a detailed report soon. Just got home.



Alm - 8-20-2018 at 09:43 PM

TLB, you didn't miss anything if you haven't been on (unfinished) Hwy 5 yet, and this wouldn't be the best time to start doing it. There were reports of robberies on unfinished stretch near Coco's. Wait until they finish, there will be more traffic, maybe even polizia once a day.

https://www.facebook.com/vocescruzadasbcs/photos/a.918348341...

JZ - 8-21-2018 at 02:56 PM

Quote: Originally posted by Alm  
TLB, you didn't miss anything if you haven't been on (unfinished) Hwy 5 yet, and this wouldn't be the best time to start doing it. There were reports of robberies on unfinished stretch near Coco's. Wait until they finish, there will be more traffic, maybe even polizia once a day.

https://www.facebook.com/vocescruzadasbcs/photos/a.918348341...


JFC, and smdh at ppl like this.

Alm - 8-21-2018 at 10:58 PM

Quote: Originally posted by JZ  

JFC, and smdh at ppl

Never met them.
TLB was the author of post #1.