BajaNomad - Paddling South

Paddling South

Graham - 11-20-2018 at 09:08 AM

Continuing my Sea of Cortez paddle south from Loreto after I enjoy Thanksgiving in Bahia de los Angeles. No goals, no hurry, just getting away from it all and re-living hiking the same coast back in 1983-1984. Had a few problems on the Loreto to La Paz stretch.

Now on my rather overloaded sit-on-top Cobra Tandem I can carry a lot more than I did backpacking... including a hand pump desalinator and, of course, my SPOT satellite transmitter which tells the world where I am... and hopefully that I'm OK.

Started in Bahia Gonzaga a few Novembers and two kayaks ago and made it safely down sticking close to shore and only paddling when seas are calm or ideally with a moderate tail wind. Unbelieveably beautiful. But always conscious that with one bad decision or medical emergency it can all go wrong.

IMG_1132a.JPG - 71kB

sd - 11-20-2018 at 09:13 AM

Great to hear from you Graham!

Your trips are always fun to read about.

Have a Happy Thanksgiving and great paddle.

Scot

David K - 11-20-2018 at 09:22 AM

Have a safe and wonderful adventure Graham.
Watch out for rabid burros near Los Dolores!
I gladly will post your location as you move on down the coast (per our email exchange) so we Nomads can all provide at least spirited support from our warm and dry homes!
Happy Thanksgiving and I hope you find a Guinness along the way!

Graham - 11-20-2018 at 09:37 AM

Thanks Scot and David. Will be interesting to see if the fisherman who shot that burro for me are still around.

image209.jpg - 40kB

TMW - 11-20-2018 at 09:42 AM

Another wonderful adventure, thanks for sharing and have a great trip.

motoged - 11-20-2018 at 09:57 AM

Graham,
I wish you a most splendid adventure.....again.

Your first book was part of my inspiration for my first Baja trip in 1989...10 days unsupported kayaking on west side of Espiritu Santo.

Thank you. Smile at the dolphins for me, please.

ehall - 11-20-2018 at 11:31 AM

That sounds like alot of fun. Enjoy.

John Harper - 11-20-2018 at 01:01 PM

Quote: Originally posted by Graham

Thanks Scot and David. Will be interesting to see if the fisherman who shot that burro for me are still around.

Good luck on your voyage. Why did the fisherman shoot the burro? A vicious attack burro?

John

BornFisher - 11-20-2018 at 03:06 PM

Hey Graham-- Wishing you fair seas and a following breeze. Fresh fish, fresh water, sunshine, good health and a great adventure!

David K - 11-20-2018 at 03:42 PM

Quote: Originally posted by John Harper

Quote: Originally posted by Graham

Thanks Scot and David. Will be interesting to see if the fisherman who shot that burro for me are still around.

Good luck on your voyage. Why did the fisherman shoot the burro? A vicious attack burro?

John

Quote: Originally posted by David K

...
Watch out for rabid burros near Los Dolores!...

It was a big story, in his first book... I highly recommend every Nomad read 'Into a Desert Place' by Graham Mackintosh.

Graham - 11-20-2018 at 06:39 PM

Thanks everyone for the good wishes... and BornFisher I would definitely love those fair seas and a following sea. The black burro was foaming at the mouth and chasing anyone who came near... as I found out.

inspiration

joerover - 11-20-2018 at 06:59 PM

Our man in the kayak wrote one of the books that gave me inspiration for my first trip to Baja, 12 or so years ago. Crosby was the another.

I searched for the oldest book on Baja in the library. The fed sent a man to take a look at Baja and report back as to what it was. He ran out of water and was saved by the indains. He went ack to Washingon and lied for them, so the fed would leave them alone. I sure can not remember the name of that 1850 ish book,13 years later.
but,
If it is worth lying for, there must be something good here. He told the fed it was a useless waste land, to protect his new friends.

That is not why I am posting here today,
I want to know something.

Mr kayaker,
That is a small looking boat, are there sharks out there bigger than your boat?

- - - - - -- -- - - ---- - - ------

What if he gets stranded on Isla Monserrate with very little beer?

[Edited on 11-21-2018 by joerover]

BajaBlanca - 11-21-2018 at 02:44 AM

You are VERY courageous and we wish you the bestest trip ever!

I am going to reread Into a Desert Place. Don't remember the foaming at the mouth burro.

Martyman - 11-21-2018 at 07:42 AM

Tell us a little more about your pump desalinated please.

Don Jorge - 11-21-2018 at 07:43 AM

Quote: Originally posted by Graham

The black burro was foaming at the mouth and chasing anyone who came near... as I found out.

You thought they were serving machaca rapido not machaca rabiado!
Safe travels.

Bubba - 11-21-2018 at 08:20 AM

Looks like an awesome adventure. Safe travels!

David K - 11-21-2018 at 08:39 AM

Hopefully, all these kayaking adventures will be combined into a future book!

Books by Graham Mackintosh:

1988

2001

2003

2008

joerover - 11-21-2018 at 08:44 PM

A boat might be eaiser to care for than a donkey,

but

I am scared,

of

giant sharks

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F8fRTt0rRtw

Mexitron - 11-21-2018 at 09:36 PM

Have a great expedition Graham!

Graham - 11-22-2018 at 10:15 AM

Thanks everyone. Have a great Thanksgiving.

Will be thankful if my paddle is gentle and easy and uneventful... of course, it never is in Baja. More worried about getting beyond Loreto and where to land in La Paz than giant sharks... would hate for one to get a Tandem kayak stuck in its throat.

Grateful to have my SPOT, Katadyn Survivor 35 desalinator, and Marine VHF radio... could have done with those on my 1980s walk around Baja.

Thanks David... book planned, maybe an ebook this time. But just happy to be relaxing and experiencing the Sea of Cortez while the world gets by without me.

advrider - 11-22-2018 at 12:14 PM

Gona have to add a couple more books to the Baja library!!!

David K - 11-25-2018 at 10:03 PM

Graham's first Spot signal has come in from where he is beginning his next high adventure!

Loreto to La Paz is a rugged and remote coast... most of it has no parallel coast road between Ligui and San Evaristo.

I will post the location maps starting now:

11-25-18 Juncalito Beach (north of Puerto Escondido)

Graham 11-25-18.jpg - 196kB

[Edited on 11-26-2018 by David K]

sd - 11-26-2018 at 10:22 AM

Thanks David!

Graham is a great guy, and does trips that I would someday like to do.
I am looking forward to following his latest adventure.

I have read all his books, lots of fun.

Scot

ehall - 11-26-2018 at 01:54 PM

I thought he was leaving from BOLA?

David K - 11-26-2018 at 05:52 PM

No, he was just warming up there.

David K - 11-27-2018 at 02:50 AM

No signal sent on Nov. 26.
Maybe the wind came up or maybe he forgot to push send?
In the past, he sent a location at least once a day even if he hasn't moved.

Here was his Punta Final (Gonzaga Bay) to L.A. Bay trip of 2015: http://forums.bajanomad.com/viewthread.php?tid=80586

Graham went from L.A. Bay to Mulegé in November 2017: No Nomad postings other than seeking a ride north from Mulegé and mentioning his Spot at Las Animas.

Mulegé to Loreto trip of 2017: http://forums.bajanomad.com/viewthread.php?tid=88201

ehall - 11-27-2018 at 04:34 AM

Quote: Originally posted by David K

No, he was just warming up there.

Ok. Wondered how he got so far south so fast. Thanks.

11-27-18

David K - 11-27-2018 at 05:26 PM

At 11:29 am PST today:

Graham 11-27-18.jpg - 190kB

I should add, for those who don't know, that is the bay of Puerto Escondido, south of Loreto that Graham is near the entrance to.

[Edited on 11-28-2018 by David K]

11-28-18

David K - 11-28-2018 at 10:26 AM

At 7:35 am PST, off Ensenada Blanca/ Villa del Palmar.

Graham 11-28-18.jpg - 193kB

ehall - 11-28-2018 at 10:35 AM

That's a long way in less than 24 hours. Must have a tailwind.

11-28-18 PM

David K - 11-28-2018 at 02:35 PM

Graham has either a super tailwind or the Spot signals from yesterday were delayed?

Graham 11-28-18b.jpg - 197kB

At 12:55 PM PST today (Wed) he is halfway between Ensenada Blanca and Agua Verde.

ehall - 11-28-2018 at 06:42 PM

What size motor he running? Lol

11-29-18

David K - 11-29-2018 at 12:35 PM

11:30 AM PST nearing Agua Verde.

11-30-18

David K - 11-30-2018 at 12:57 PM

Graham 11-30-18.jpg - 142kB

At 11:51 AM PST.
Graham made it to Bahía Agua Verde!

ehall - 11-30-2018 at 02:54 PM

Still moving fast. Weather must be in his favor.

Hook - 12-1-2018 at 06:11 AM

Generally speaking, the tides have been in his favor for daylight travel. The highs have been peaking in the early AM hours, so the flow out of the Gulf has helped him for much of the day.

I am sure that was the plan, when he selected his dates.

On many days per month, the middle of the Gulf gets only one high and one low tide. I have always assumed that is because incoming and outgoing water from the conventional four tides per day, cancels out two of the tides.

12-1-18

David K - 12-1-2018 at 02:13 PM

Graham sent in a new Spot location a half hour ago. He is about 10 miles south of Agua Verde.

Graham 12-1-18.jpg - 248kB

AT 12:52 pm PST.
Note the scale bar below the image/ map.
I will be switching to a larger scale to show reference points in the next day's map.

[Edited on 12-3-2018 by David K]

12-2-18

David K - 12-2-2018 at 08:37 PM

Graham 12-2-18.jpg - 245kB

8:55 am PST. Note this map is a larger scale than the previous ones so you can see known points as reference marks.

12-3-18

David K - 12-3-2018 at 06:53 PM

Graham 12-3-18.jpg - 244kB

At 8:16 am PST. It appears that Graham is taking a break for a day.

12-4-18

David K - 12-4-2018 at 09:09 PM

Graham 12-4-18.jpg - 200kB

At 10:02 am PST

BajaParrothead - 12-4-2018 at 11:41 PM

No movement for a few days. :?:

Do you suppose he's pinned down due to winds?

David K - 12-5-2018 at 09:01 AM

Don't know but he has taken 3 day breaks during previous trips. If he had an inReach, he could let us know or I could ask. He is sending the standard I'm OK signal.

BajaParrothead - 12-5-2018 at 06:26 PM

Quote: Originally posted by David K

Don't know but he has taken 3 day breaks during previous trips. If he had an inReach, he could let us know or I could ask. He is sending the standard I'm OK signal.

Interesting adventure. Thank you for keeping us in the loop.

tobias - 12-5-2018 at 06:40 PM

Quote: Originally posted by BajaParrothead

No movement for a few days. :?:

Do you suppose he's pinned down due to winds?

My guess is good fishing

12-5-18

David K - 12-6-2018 at 10:23 AM

At 5:52 pm PST Wednesday... the first image is brought out to the 10 km. scale so you can see familiar places and Graham's location now (midway between Agua Verde and San Evaristo):

Graham 12-5-18.jpg - 242kB

This next image is zoomed way in, 2 km. scale:

Graham 12-5-18a.jpg - 197kB

12-6-18 Today on foot!

David K - 12-6-2018 at 02:45 PM

Graham has hiked up the canyon to the mission ruins of Los Dolores. This was the hike where the burro with rabies occurred back in the early 80s, as told in his first book.

Graham 12-6-18.jpg - 195kB

At 12:19 pm PST

What he is seeing today:

Photo from Nomad 'Ashek' in 2014.

[Edited on 6-16-2024 by David K]

12-6-18 PM

David K - 12-7-2018 at 07:03 AM

Graham sent another Spot signal when he returned to the beach from visiting Mission Nuestra Señora de los Dolores Apate.

Graham 12-6-18a.jpg - 174kB

At 4:45 pm PST Thursday

12-7-18

David K - 12-7-2018 at 04:13 PM

Graham 12-7-18.jpg - 194kB

At 2:25 pm PST, Graham is midway between Los Dolores beach and San Evaristo.

12-8-18 and 12-9-18

David K - 12-9-2018 at 12:25 PM

Graham 12-8-18.jpg - 201kB

At 11:51 am PST Saturday

Graham 12-9-18.jpg - 189kB

At 6:27 am PST Sunday

12-10-18

David K - 12-10-2018 at 10:01 AM

Graham 12-10-18.jpg - 157kB

At 8:51 am PST Monday

12-11-18

David K - 12-11-2018 at 03:49 PM

Graham 12-11-18.jpg - 207kB

Graham at 1:41 pm PST Tuesday

Bubba - 12-11-2018 at 04:36 PM

So, if I'm reading this correctly, he traveled 20-25 km over the past day?

David K - 12-11-2018 at 05:30 PM

Hi Bubba. Just eyeballing it I get just under 20. I can do some Google track lines and get a better estimate. When Graham did the Gonzaga to L.A. Bay trip, I did that. He must have the wind at his back or really smooth conditions?

Bubba - 12-12-2018 at 05:50 AM

Ok, think I got it. Yes, looks like he's making great time.

12-10 to 12-11 distance estimate

David K - 12-12-2018 at 11:13 AM

On Google Earth, using the two Spot locations then drawing the route that Graham may have paddled between the two, I get a distance of 12.7 miles or just over 20 kilometers.

Graham 12-11-18a.jpg - 158kB

Bubba - 12-12-2018 at 02:53 PM

Making very good time!

12-12-18

David K - 12-12-2018 at 11:58 PM

Graham 12-12-18.jpg - 231kB

At 5:18 pm PST Wednesday, Graham is inside of Bahía de la Paz. The scale of this image is zoomed out to the 10 km scale bar to show his location in relation to La Paz.

12-13-18

David K - 12-13-2018 at 11:52 AM

Graham 12-13-18.jpg - 204kB

At 9:42 am PST, Graham's Spot location. This image is back at the 5 km. scale. As you can see, Graham is just south of the shrimp farm, which is along the road to San Evaristo, 39 miles north of Hwy. 1 near La Paz.

12-14-18

David K - 12-14-2018 at 12:09 PM

Graham 12-14-18.jpg - 173kB

At 6:38 am PST Friday, Graham was still near the shrimp farm.

Bubba - 12-14-2018 at 02:57 PM

Thanks for the updates, I'm enjoying following this.

David K - 12-14-2018 at 03:56 PM

I am glad you are... I think there are many Nomads and non-registered 'lurkers' who are as well. It is still nice to see the feedback from you!

Graham will be done soon (if he stops at La Paz) and we can look forward to his stories and photos of the journey.

wessongroup - 12-14-2018 at 05:23 PM

What an adventure .... way cool

David K - 12-15-2018 at 06:25 PM

About 15 minutes ago, Graham transmitted from San Juan de la Costa. I will add the new map when I get on my PC later.

4x4abc - 12-15-2018 at 07:07 PM

any Graham reception/celebration in La Paz?

12-15-18

David K - 12-15-2018 at 10:53 PM

At 5:08 pm PST (6:08 local time) Saturday, Graham was on the beach at San Juan de la Costa. If he doesn't take any more rest days, he could be on El Mogote or La Paz in 2 days.

JZ - 12-15-2018 at 11:03 PM

How old is Graham, roughly?

David K - 12-15-2018 at 11:26 PM

Quote: Originally posted by JZ

How old is Graham, roughly?

About 67, I think... I was at his big 50th birthday party and that was in 2001, I think?

EDIT: Amazing how much is on the Internet:

Graham Mackintosh once described himself as the least adventurous person in the world. Some 30 plus years later, he can look back on adventures that most people would never dream of. Mackintosh was born in London in 1951 of a Scottish father (Inverness)and an Irish mother (Kilrush, Co. Clare), he grew up in Slough, Berkshire, and received a BA Hons degree in Sociology from the University of Leeds. In 1983 he was a lecturer at a college in England teaching social sciences and special education to unemployed teenagers. Hoping to show his students that a shoestring expedition could be the adventure of a lifetime, Mackintosh, who described himself as the “least adventurous person in the world,” set out to walk around the beautiful but dangerous coastline of Mexico’s Baja California peninsula. He was out to to show his students that “the adventure of a lifetime” could be enjoyed on a shoestring budget. Two years later, he completed his 3.000 mile (4,800-kilometer) circumnavigation walk on foot around the entire coastline of Baja California. He wrote a book about his experience called Into a Desert Place and subsequently won an award for Adventurous Traveler of the Year. It turned out that one adventure wasn’t enough for the unadventurous Mackintosh, who embarked upon another Baja expedition in 1997, walking 1,000 miles (1,600 kilometers down the mountainous interior of Baja California from the border all the way to Loreto. Journey with a Baja Burro, Mackintosh’s second book, tells the tale of the hike. Two more books have followed: Nearer My Dog to Thee, the 2001 story of his four months with two street dogs in the Baja mountain range, Sierra San Pedro Mártir, and Marooned with Very Little Beer, which followed a two-month kayaking trip in the Sea of Cortéz, where he also hiked the island, Isla Angel de la Guarda. Another adventure in 2013 hasn’t yet produced a book, but it is written up on Mackintosh’s website (http://www.grahammackintosh.com/). It was to be one of his biggest challenges — climbing 9,800 foot (3,000-meter)-high Picacho del Diablo, Baja California’s tallest mountain. He admitted he wasn’t a climber, but allowed that he didn’t undertake such challenges without considering every possibility for things going wrong. Plus, a bit of tension and anxiety, he said, is a good thing. “You really need a little fear, a little pressure to keep you focused and alert. But not too much that you feel overwhelmed.” Mackintosh, who now resides in San Diego, California, says all his Baja adventure have begun with that uncomfortable tension, which turns into confidence as he settles into the trip. He admitted that climbing Picacho del Diablo, or Devil’s Peak, might be beyond him. “But I will at least try and see what happens and be prepared to leave it for another day if necessary.” As it turned out, he did have to leave it for another day after one of his climbing companions, aged 72, decided en route that he’d best not continue. Mackintosh notes that the journey is sometimes more important than the destination. He should know, he’s seen a thing or two. Mackintosh as written a couple of other great books about his adventures, and his bio, photos and all his books are available on his Amazon page.

[Edited on 12-16-2018 by David K]

Bubba - 12-16-2018 at 06:27 AM

Quote: Originally posted by David K

About 15 minutes ago, Graham transmitted from San Juan de la Costa. I will add the new map when I get on my PC later.

Gotta love technology.

David K - 12-16-2018 at 02:03 PM

About 30 min ago, 12:30 PST, Graham was still at the same place as yesterday.

12-16-18

David K - 12-16-2018 at 05:56 PM

Graham 12-16-18.jpg - 164kB

12:30 pm PST Sunday, Graham at San Juan de la Costa.

Graham - 12-16-2018 at 06:34 PM

Windy, white caps, wild surf. Not sure I can safely launch. Will assess tomorrow before dawn. Might be stuck here till Friday, then 3-4 days to La Paz. True heroes are folks at Earth Oceans Farms who have graciously let me use their facilities. Beautiful Baja people.

Graham - 12-16-2018 at 07:00 PM

159EA841-2CBD-4A25-AABB-3F6B0D264C65.jpeg - 125kB

David K - 12-16-2018 at 07:23 PM

Great to hear from you!

fishbuck - 12-16-2018 at 07:52 PM

Hey Graham
Cool fish farm.
Ride with the tide!
Try La Choncha in La Paz. Nice beach bar there!

sd - 12-17-2018 at 08:18 AM

Good to hear from you Graham! Thanks for having David show us your travel as you go.
I am in Los Barriles, and yes has been a bit breezy on the water. Take your time, and good to hear of the hospitality you are receiving.
Hope to hear you speak about your travels.

Scot

Bubba - 12-17-2018 at 02:39 PM

Quote: Originally posted by sd

Good to hear from you Graham! Thanks for having David show us your travel as you go.
I am in Los Barriles, and yes has been a bit breezy on the water. Take your time, and good to hear of the hospitality you are receiving.
Hope to hear you speak about your travels.

Scot

Ditto, would love to hear more!

12-17-18

David K - 12-17-2018 at 02:55 PM

Graham 12-17-18.jpg - 225kB

Graham a couple hours ago (11:52 am PST, Monday).
Not sure if Harald or Karl can get to him for a visit and take him some beer, but I left the GPS in, just in case. I noted that his friend Mike E. had been posting the GPS for Graham on Facebook.

12-18-18 LA PAZ IN SIGHT!

David K - 12-18-2018 at 12:47 PM

Graham 12-18-18.jpg - 198kB

At 11:23 am PST (12:23 pm local time), Tuesday, Graham is looking at La Paz from the tip of El Mogote.

[Edited on 12-18-2018 by David K]

fishbuck - 12-18-2018 at 12:54 PM

How far is it in 1 day?

David K - 12-18-2018 at 12:59 PM

Quote: Originally posted by fishbuck

How far is it in 1 day?

The scale bar is at the bottom of most of my image posts... looks like close to 25 kms. or 15 miles...

[Edited on 12-18-2018 by David K]

fishbuck - 12-18-2018 at 01:01 PM

I sure hope that is down swell and down wind on an outgoing tide!

[Edited on 12-18-2018 by fishbuck]

Graham - 12-18-2018 at 05:06 PM

Had to start at 4:30 am. Paddled with a pair of whale sharks this AM. But now a beer in La Paz. Finished for now.

David K - 12-18-2018 at 05:09 PM

Quote: Originally posted by Graham

Had to start at 4:30 am. Paddled with a pair of whale sharks this AM. But now a beer in La Paz. Finished for now.

Congratulations Graham! :bounce:

Graham - 12-18-2018 at 08:17 PM

Thanks David. Great to know you were following... just in case.

sd - 12-18-2018 at 09:25 PM

Incredible Graham.

Always fun watching your adventures!

Scot

Desert Rat - 12-19-2018 at 01:33 AM

Congratulations, Graham. Way to go! I'm always happy to see you start an adventure and always happy to see you complete an adventure. You are amazing.

Cappy - 12-19-2018 at 05:52 AM

Congratulations. Amazing journey. Thanks for the updates David

Bubba - 12-19-2018 at 06:49 AM

Quote: Originally posted by Graham

Had to start at 4:30 am. Paddled with a pair of whale sharks this AM. But now a beer in La Paz. Finished for now.

I'm sure that beer tasted good! Congratulations!

SDROB - 12-19-2018 at 10:18 AM

Congratulations Graham. And thank you David. I really enjoyed following your progress. This seems like a bucket list trip for me some day.

lewmt - 12-20-2018 at 08:24 PM

Thanks for posting! Really looking forward to reading your books Graham!

Geo_Skip - 12-21-2018 at 08:59 AM

Happy solstice Graham!

Graham - 12-22-2018 at 08:29 PM

Looking back... great trip, away from it all. Loved the colors of sunup on the kayak... and thanks to the yachties for occasional water top-ups. Whale sharks near Agua Verde. Wind stayed down as I rounded the worst points... and passed the highest cliffs. Came close to misjudging the tide a couple of times, and there were days after two hours packing and getting ready I decided to stay where I was, but overall inspite of the winds and a couple of surprise downpours it was Baja wonderful.

DSCF8727a.JPG - 187kB

sd - 12-22-2018 at 09:37 PM

Nice photos Graham!

Merry Christmas.

Scot

fishbuck - 12-22-2018 at 10:24 PM

Epic!
Thanks for sharing
Merry Christmas Graham!

4x4abc - 12-22-2018 at 10:58 PM

jealous!

lewmt - 12-27-2018 at 06:55 AM

Honestly, your 1st book Graham is one of the best I've ever read. Not just because of my interest in Baja or adventure, but you truly have a keen sense of when to reminisce & describe in detail and when to motor on. I can't wait to read the rest. Thanks for doing what you've done and sharing it with us! Gifted inspiration!

Bubba - 12-27-2018 at 08:10 AM

Wow, what an adventure!

David K - 1-10-2019 at 11:22 AM

Part 1 of his article on this trip: http://www.discoverbaja.com/2019/01/10/kayaking-loreto-to-la...

Bubba - 1-10-2019 at 03:14 PM

Quote: Originally posted by David K

Part 1 of his article on this trip: http://www.discoverbaja.com/2019/01/10/kayaking-loreto-to-la...

Thanks for the link!