BajaNomad

Let's talk about jacks; What jack(s) do you take with you on trips to Baja

JZ - 7-22-2020 at 09:21 PM

Bottle jack, high lift jack, exhaust jack?

mtgoat666 - 7-22-2020 at 09:52 PM

Stock bottle and scissor jacks, and a few short pieces of 2x6 timber.

Friend carries an offroad floor jack, a bit heavy/bulky, but nice and fast the few times we needed it.

JZ - 7-22-2020 at 10:16 PM

I did not know they made offroad floor jacks. Just watched several videos on them.

Thinking this is what I want to upgrade to.

https://youtu.be/EOs1dwIo1o4

https://youtu.be/-O9-fRbF2ZY



[Edited on 7-23-2020 by JZ]

4x4abc - 7-22-2020 at 10:16 PM

exhaust jack is a cool concept - used on occasion
it mostly failed what it was supposed to do

4x4abc - 7-22-2020 at 10:18 PM

off road floor jacks are great
have one - light aluminum
BUT - it uses a lot more space than a bottle jack

defrag4 - 7-22-2020 at 11:10 PM

carry both a bottle jack and a small floor jack, usually just use the bottle jack but have been in incidents where the bottle jack was too tall and the floor jack saved my arse

Maderita - 7-22-2020 at 11:45 PM

A very relevant topic for Baja and offroad JZ.

My 1-ton 4x4 van always has a hydraulic bottle jack on board. It's probably a 6 or 8-ton jack. Lesser capacity jacks seem a little flimsy, and some have less vertical travel. The bottle jack is good for changing tires. Their advantage is in lifting one tire off the ground. By lifting under the spring or axle, the amount of vertical lift required is only a few inches. (As opposed to a bumper jack which must overcome several inches of suspension travel before the tire begins to raise.)

If going anywhere with 4WD, or offroad mud/snow conditions, I bring a Hi-Lift jack. Usually the 48", all cast iron jack (vs. cheaper stamped steel). If I'm getting serious, then the 60", or on rare occasions, both. That compliments the 12,000 winch.

I made a plywood base approx. 18" x 24", doubled up 3/4" plywood, drilled to match the foot of the Hi-Lift, with 2 bolts and wing nuts. This prevents the jack from sliding off the base, if things become off-angle. An "accessory kit" in a tool bag for the Hi-Lifts contains a clevis slip-hook, clevis grab-hook, short lengths of chain, and quick links. Also a can of spray lube (Liguid Wrench or WD40) for the "climbing" pins if they become gritty or muddy.

For those unfamiliar with Hi-Lifts (aka: sheepherder's or farm jacks), they are highly versatile and a cost-effective piece of equipment (under $100). They are capable of lifting the entire front or rear of a truck 2' off the ground. One trick, employed many times, is to lift the entire end of the vehicle into the air, then push it over sideways. Needless to say, this is potentially quite hazardous. These jacks are not friendly to modern OEM plastic bumpers, lower valances, or flimsy steel bumpers. There are accessory hook & strap devices for attaching to a wheel for a lifting point. The Hi-Lift can also be used as a come-along, to slowly winch your way out of a stuck situation.

Research thoroughly about safety do's and don'ts. There should be numerous YouTube videos and web pages on the subject. They are unstable enough when one wheel is off the ground. With two wheels in the air, about as stable as a drunk stumbling out of Hussong's Cantina.

Rebuildable and parts are available. Gave a new bright red 60" to a rancher amigo for Christmas. He had need for it twice in the subsequent week.

A desert/duning buddy had an expensive Australian "X-jack" inflatable (by exhaust gas). Seemed like a great concept. He was more than disappointed when it popped the first time he needed it. No doubt, user error. Undercarriages have all sorts of pointy things. So I handed him my faithful Hi-Lift, purchased from Dick Cepek's Offroad in the 1970s.

John Harper - 7-23-2020 at 05:00 AM

I have a scissors jack mounted to a piece of 2x10 for stability and a larger footprint.

John

Great looking in theory

John M - 7-23-2020 at 05:57 AM

Saw this some time ago. I've been watching reviews and I'm still not sold due to what may be unsolved leakage issue. At around $65.00, it seems to be priced ok.



One of my thoughts on this particular set up is that jacking up a vehicle isn't always about changing a tire. if you need to do repair under the vehicle, I think the locking mechanism would provide a much better level of security.

edited to add website:
https://www.powerbuilt.com/products/3-ton-all-in-one-jacksta...

John M



[Edited on 7-23-2020 by John M]

advrider - 7-23-2020 at 06:28 AM

https://safejacks.com

Just ordered a bottle jack with the aluminum base from the above company. Not cheap but I really like the adapters and base that come with it. If it gets me unstuck or makes changing a tire safer, it's worth the money!
I've used my hi-lift many time on my lifted jeeps. Almost always ended with the jeep or jack in and unsafe position at one point or another, but always got the job done.

PaulW - 7-23-2020 at 06:42 AM

For the Jeep I carry a 20 ton bottle jack and a Hilift.
The Hilift is a specialize device and has seldom been used. The bottle jack is for tire changes and getting parts lifted off the rocks.
It is true I also carry several blocks of wood and I have the large base for the Hilift to use in the sand. I would never use the Hilift for a tire change.
For any of my other collection of trucks and cars used in Baja I use what they came with.

pacificobob - 7-23-2020 at 06:55 AM

i carry a bottle jack..the right size for the job. not oversized. also a 60" hylift...although I really hate to use it. at times it is the only solution...they will try to injure the careless operator. like stated above, some 2x6 scraps are handy as well.

Mulege Canuck - 7-23-2020 at 07:24 AM

I use a 12 ton bottle jack. With the weight of my Bigfoot camper, I need a jack that will lift all that weight easily. I use 2’x 2’ 3/4” plywood for a base for the Jack when on sand.

msteve1014 - 7-23-2020 at 11:50 AM

i carry a bottle jack, and the hi-lift. I have receivers front and rear., makes for a good place for the hi-lift. first on a F-350, now a chevy diesel, both heavy.

TMW - 7-23-2020 at 12:23 PM

I carry a 10 ton bottle jack, a Hi Lift jack, and the jack that came with the vehicle. Plus a couple of 2 inch thick 8 by 8 wood pieces to put the bottle jack on. Only used the Hi Lift once or twice.

I also had an exhaust bag jack at one time and it did work except the last time I used it I placed it too close to the edge of the body panel where the sheet metal comes together and when raising it cut the rubber and all was done. John M saved the day with his jack.

I gave it to a neighbor. He was going to see if he could fix it.

David K - 7-23-2020 at 12:30 PM

I just have the factory hydraulic jack that comes with my Tacoma. Only once have I needed to put on the spare of all the flats I have gotten!

I have a tire plug kit and an air pump (of course) and have almost always repaired my tires while on my truck. Most of those flats from sharp rocks came when I did not deflate the pressure for dirt roads (only for deep sand). I finally wised up and now drop the pressure if I have any kind of distance to drive off the pavement.

[Edited on 7-23-2020 by David K]

pacificobob - 7-23-2020 at 12:45 PM

a bottle jack capable of lifting 40,000 lbs,[20 tons] is just not required to lift a wheel on a 5k lb vehicle ....

TMW - 7-23-2020 at 12:58 PM

Sometimes it's not our vehicle that needs lifting and it's not always a vehicle.

JZ - 7-23-2020 at 01:38 PM

I don't want to fool around with the dangers on using a high lift jack. Plus don't have the lift points anyway.

Convince me that an off-road floor jack isn't a lot better?

PaulW - 7-23-2020 at 03:23 PM

The off road floor jacks are the favorites for prerunners and racers. These guys spend a ridiculous amount of dollars modifying to suit. The most compact ones have no wheels, but have a skid so they don't sink in the sand. Most users have a special bracket custom made to allow it to be stored in a convenient place. All the ones I have used are heavier than my 20 lb bottle jack and very awkward to use. I hate them. IMO they are totally unnecessary and I could never find a place to locate a bracket. Without the dedicated bracket the things take up way to much space to be practical.
For use in the pits I have seen much larger units with fat tires to prevent sinking in the sand and they still have a flat skid when using for lifting. Way impractical due to size and the lift height it is very high and the minimum or collapses height wont work on any thing with normal sized tires.
Then there is the issue of finding a floor jack that is light and actually works. Any of them that are smaller than what the local tire shop uses are terribly unreliable and fragile.

JZ - 7-23-2020 at 03:38 PM

Quote: Originally posted by PaulW  
The off road floor jacks are the favorites for prerunners and racers. These guys spend a ridiculous amount of dollars modifying to suit. The most compact ones have no wheels, but have a skid so they don't sink in the sand. Most users have a special bracket custom made to allow it to be stored in a convenient place. All the ones I have used are heavier than my 20 lb bottle jack and very awkward to use. I hate them. IMO they are totally unnecessary and I could never find a place to locate a bracket. Without the dedicated bracket the things take up way to much space to be practical.
For use in the pits I have seen much larger units with fat tires to prevent sinking in the sand and they still have a flat skid when using for lifting. Way impractical due to size and the lift height it is very high and the minimum or collapses height wont work on any thing with normal sized tires.
Then there is the issue of finding a floor jack that is light and actually works. Any of them that are smaller than what the local tire shop uses are terribly unreliable and fragile.


Watch the video I posted. It comes with skid so it won't sink in the sand/mud. It also comes with a mounting backet. There is an extension that lets it lift higher than a normal floor jack. I have a big 3/4 ton with a rack. Lots of room.

Bottle jack isn't great for the sand. Hi lift jack is super bulky and super dangerous.

Think a bottle jack + a good offroad floor jack is the best combo if you have the space.


[Edited on 7-23-2020 by JZ]

Barry A. - 7-23-2020 at 04:45 PM

On my F-250 4x4 extended-cab pickup with a 1000 lb. steel Callen camper on it, I want strong stuff to lift and pull it. I carry a stubby 20 ton bottle jack, with a custom made 10" x 15" 3/8th steel "pad" with non-skid steel projections on the bottom as a platform for the bottle-jack & a high-lift jack. Plus of course the factory jack, which I have never used. I also normally have a 60" Hi-lift jack attached to the steel rack on top of the Callen Camper, which also uses (fits) the custom-made steel pad as previously described. I have never needed more than that-------but they are heavy. I also have a Warn 9.5K lb. elec. winch (steel cable) which can be easily moved to either the front or back trailer-hitch assembly's along with a heavy-duty snatch-block for really heavy duty winching. I learned the hard way to be prepared in back-road Baja where we always spent our time and are sometimes solo. What some described as "over-kill" I called "peace of mind".



[Edited on 7-24-2020 by Barry A.]

mtgoat666 - 7-23-2020 at 04:48 PM

Quote: Originally posted by JZ  
I don't want to fool around with the dangers on using a high lift jack. Plus don't have the lift points anyway.

Convince me that an off-road floor jack isn't a lot better?


I use my jack about once every three years. I like the stock jack in my truck that stays in it’s place out of the way...
A floor jack would just be in the way... pain in the a$$ to haul things in the truck that rarely get used...


mtgoat666 - 7-23-2020 at 04:51 PM

Quote: Originally posted by JZ  
Quote: Originally posted by PaulW  
The off road floor jacks are the favorites for prerunners and racers. These guys spend a ridiculous amount of dollars modifying to suit. The most compact ones have no wheels, but have a skid so they don't sink in the sand. Most users have a special bracket custom made to allow it to be stored in a convenient place. All the ones I have used are heavier than my 20 lb bottle jack and very awkward to use. I hate them. IMO they are totally unnecessary and I could never find a place to locate a bracket. Without the dedicated bracket the things take up way to much space to be practical.
For use in the pits I have seen much larger units with fat tires to prevent sinking in the sand and they still have a flat skid when using for lifting. Way impractical due to size and the lift height it is very high and the minimum or collapses height wont work on any thing with normal sized tires.
Then there is the issue of finding a floor jack that is light and actually works. Any of them that are smaller than what the local tire shop uses are terribly unreliable and fragile.


Watch the video I posted. It comes with skid so it won't sink in the sand/mud. It also comes with a mounting backet. There is an extension that lets it lift higher than a normal floor jack. I have a big 3/4 ton with a rack. Lots of room.

Bottle jack isn't great for the sand. Hi lift jack is super bulky and super dangerous.

Think a bottle jack + a good offroad floor jack is the best combo if you have the space.


[Edited on 7-23-2020 by JZ]


Bottle jack works great in sand if you put a board or wide rock under it.

SFandH - 7-23-2020 at 05:10 PM

Quote: Originally posted by mtgoat666  

Bottle jack works great in sand if you put a board or wide rock under it.


I used to carry two 18" 4 x 12s with me. One worked great as a bottle jack base, and two worked for leveling off the truck/camper when parked.

Lee - 7-23-2020 at 07:19 PM

2 bottle jacks for the Class C. Nothing for the Class A as a pro needs to change the tire (22.5'' wheel).

With hydraulic levelers on the Class C, I can raise the tires off the ground if they need replacing.

WestyWanderer - 7-23-2020 at 07:45 PM

Can’t beat a floor jack, especially the aluminum ones. I carry a 3 ton with a collapsible handle, a 1’x3’ sheet of plywood, and 2’ 4x4. Really doesn’t take up much room at all and is 1000x better than a bottle jack or high lift for 99% of the issues you’ll run in to. If you can’t find room for a small floor jack you’re taking too much stuff.

WestyWanderer - 7-23-2020 at 07:47 PM

Also JZ, lot easier to work on a dirt bike on a floor jack than a bottle jack or high lift, if you have too.

JZ - 7-23-2020 at 08:02 PM

Quote: Originally posted by WestyWanderer  
Also JZ, lot easier to work on a dirt bike on a floor jack than a bottle jack or high lift, if you have too.


Good input, thank you.

I'm gonna to try to mount it to the bottom of the rack. About 2/3'rds of the way into the bed. A space we would never use. Put it in a nice water proof bag or something.




[Edited on 7-24-2020 by JZ]

WestyWanderer - 7-23-2020 at 08:18 PM

Sounds awesome. Probably don’t even need the bag if you get the aluminum one unless you’re gonna leave it in your truck 100% of the time.

Two things I don’t leave home without anymore: a floor jack and a full size shovel. Tired of digging from my knees with some short handled thing and I’ve crawled under enough cars to set my bottle jack to change a tire. Worth their weight and space in gold in my opinion.

How about a high lift bottle jack?

AKgringo - 7-23-2020 at 08:22 PM

It got me out of a sink hole I caught with my right front wheel just north of Datil!

I tried to post a pic, but failed! I can forward it to an e-mail address if someone wants to try and post it, U2U would be best.

JZ - 7-23-2020 at 09:45 PM

Quote: Originally posted by AKgringo  
It got me out of a sink hole I caught with my right front wheel just north of Datil!

I tried to post a pic, but failed! I can forward it to an e-mail address if someone wants to try and post it, U2U would be best.



Fun stuff!





Maderita - 7-24-2020 at 12:19 AM

Quote: Originally posted by JZ  
I don't want to fool around with the dangers on using a high lift jack. Plus don't have the lift points anyway.

Convince me that an off-road floor jack isn't a lot better?

A floor jack is nearly perfect for one thing: raising either one corner, or one end of a vehicle, vertically. (And, if on concrete or asphalt, you can scoot an end of the vehicle sideways). A hydraulic bottle jack is good for raising one corner, though unstable for raising one end of a vehicle.

A Hi-Lift is versatile for a multitude of tasks, including, lifting, moving the end of the vehicle sideways, pulling/winching. Just a few of the tasks I've done: Lifting then pushing the vehicle sideways several feet, winching (albeit slowly) out of a stuck situation, pulling/removing fence posts, straightening steel cattle gates and corral panels, lifting trailer tongues, realigning the roof of a woodcutting shed, straightening tie rods w/o removal, unseating tire beads, lifting timbers, tensioning wire rope (w/ a Haven's grip), moving boulders and high-centered vehicles.
No doubt there are dozens of other uses shown on the internet.

Put another way, a bottle jack is like having a wrench in your tool bag. A floor jack is like having a big adjustable wrench in the bag. A Hi-Lift, along with a few simple accessories, is like having the bag of tools at your disposal.

A Hi-Lift is not for someone who is unlikely to study instructions for use and safety, or who does not maintain situational awareness while working with loads and equipment. It is better suited for vehicles with real offroad bumpers or dock bumper. It will likely scrape the paint off the bumper, and it will also get you unstuck and back on the trail again.

Would I go four-wheeling in Baja without a winch? Yes. Would I go without a shovel? Yes. Would I go without those new-fangled plastic traction boards? Yes. Would I go without a Hi-Lift? Absolutely not!

pacificobob - 7-24-2020 at 06:14 AM

there are situations where a hylift jack is the correct tool. i carry one... and use it as infrequently as I can.....

David K - 7-24-2020 at 07:47 AM

Quote: Originally posted by Maderita  
Quote: Originally posted by JZ  
I don't want to fool around with the dangers on using a high lift jack. Plus don't have the lift points anyway.

Convince me that an off-road floor jack isn't a lot better?

A floor jack is nearly perfect for one thing: raising either one corner, or one end of a vehicle, vertically. (And, if on concrete or asphalt, you can scoot an end of the vehicle sideways). A hydraulic bottle jack is good for raising one corner, though unstable for raising one end of a vehicle.

A Hi-Lift is versatile for a multitude of tasks, including, lifting, moving the end of the vehicle sideways, pulling/winching. Just a few of the tasks I've done: Lifting then pushing the vehicle sideways several feet, winching (albeit slowly) out of a stuck situation, pulling/removing fence posts, straightening steel cattle gates and corral panels, lifting trailer tongues, realigning the roof of a woodcutting shed, straightening tie rods w/o removal, unseating tire beads, lifting timbers, tensioning wire rope (w/ a Haven's grip), moving boulders and high-centered vehicles.
No doubt there are dozens of other uses shown on the internet.

Put another way, a bottle jack is like having a wrench in your tool bag. A floor jack is like having a big adjustable wrench in the bag. A Hi-Lift, along with a few simple accessories, is like having the bag of tools at your disposal.

A Hi-Lift is not for someone who is unlikely to study instructions for use and safety, or who does not maintain situational awareness while working with loads and equipment. It is better suited for vehicles with real offroad bumpers or dock bumper. It will likely scrape the paint off the bumper, and it will also get you unstuck and back on the trail again.

Would I go four-wheeling in Baja without a winch? Yes. Would I go without a shovel? Yes. Would I go without those new-fangled plastic traction boards? Yes. Would I go without a Hi-Lift? Absolutely not!


For me, the one tool I would not go to Baja without is a tire pump (air compressor). I have never needed a winch, traction boards, or high-lift jack. I do have a folding army shovel in my truck along with a tow strap (to help other people who do get stuck... because they didn't deflate).

RFClark - 7-24-2020 at 10:44 AM

A $120 exhaust jack lifts several tons 30” or more. That’s enough to place boards or mats under the wheels. It’s easy to store as well. We carry a full set of tools to unstick ourselves and others including a winch.

advrider - 7-24-2020 at 11:45 AM

JZ, I think the jack you posted the video is a good choice for home but not sure for travel? If it's in the bed it's taking up some space and needs to be locked down to prevent theft.
A bottle jack and some kind of base metal/wood, would be easier to store and take up less space. If you running a shell or bed toper it probably wouldn't matter as much?
No kids in my life so I took the rear seats out of my crew cab and built a box to store tools and gear such as a jack. The dogs love the carpeted box and our luggage and ARB fridge are always safe inside. I'm sure most people use the rear seat as a seat.

David K - 7-24-2020 at 12:35 PM

Quote: Originally posted by JZ  
Quote: Originally posted by AKgringo  
It got me out of a sink hole I caught with my right front wheel just north of Datil!

I tried to post a pic, but failed! I can forward it to an e-mail address if someone wants to try and post it, U2U would be best.



Fun stuff!







Ah yes... "GOPHER HOLES"! (or any tunnel making critter) Is what we called that...

I remember my early days of four wheeling in a Jeep, out by the Superstition Hills, Imperial Valley... sandy hills just like in the photos and then just FLOP... sink down several inches! Fortunately, my Jeep had Quadra Trac with the 'Emergency Lock-out' feature (Center differential locker) and I powered out okay...

AKgringo - 7-24-2020 at 02:23 PM

It possibly started as a critter hole, but the heavy rains of 2014 turned it into a manhole, with a thin layer of roots and dirt to hide it. The Kia was resting on the frame and bumper with the right front wheel hanging, and the left rear almost off the ground!

I had to jack up the front just to get a shovel under it! The bottom photo shows the fill I packed into the hole to give me something to set the car back down on.

It didn't help that I was pulling a trailer (just visible in the top photo). I disconnected it and rolled it out of the way until I was mobile again.

At least I didn't get stuck! I mean, I did not need help to get back on the road, so I was just "delayed'.

By the way, I am not lifting the front by that plastic bumper. The jack has hooks for a chain that passed through the bumper and hooked to the frame.

[Edited on 7-24-2020 by AKgringo]

Don Pisto - 7-24-2020 at 03:24 PM

a jack you say! what would you recommend here? (from peter geller on fb)

Barry A. - 7-24-2020 at 04:53 PM

Don----------Hmmmmm, I sky-hook might work. That is a really sad predicament!

David K - 7-24-2020 at 05:13 PM

Quote: Originally posted by AKgringo  


At least I didn't get stuck! I mean, I did not need help to get back on the road, so I was just "delayed'.

By the way, I am not lifting the front by that plastic bumper. The jack has hooks for a chain that passed through the bumper and hooked to the frame.



I used the term "temporarily immobile" if the ground benief my tires didn't cooperate! Letting more air out of my tires always worked!

Maderita - 7-24-2020 at 05:28 PM

Quote: Originally posted by Don Pisto  
a jack you say! what would you recommend here? (from peter geller on fb)



You're probably joking, but if you want a serious answer:
Dig under the rear bumper. There is likely a 2" receiver hitch. If so, dig down enough to place a plywood base for the jack. If no plywood, the spare tire is an option. Lift the rear with the Hi-Lift. Fill in the holes where the tires were. Air down to 6 or 8 psi. Then hope that you have a 4x4 with a winch. Attach a snatch block to the receiver hitch and run the wire rope back to the winching vehicle to double the line pull (twice the pulling power, but at half the speed). Dig the 4x4 in using 2WD, then 4x4 so that it sinks into the sand. Otherwise the winching vehicle will slide forward. Pop the hood up to prevent shackle/wire rope flying through the windshield. Weight the wire rope with a tool bag on a carabiner, or use whatever you have. Engine running for higher voltage to the winch = more power. Make sure that the stuck vehicle is in neutral, parking brake released. Front tires pointed straight ahead. If no winch, then a hefty recovery strap. Keep the bystanders well out of the way. Designate a person to monitor that because there will be dozens drinking beer and sticking their noses into dangerous business.

This is a deep stuck situation with sand filled all around. Particularly bad as the tires are completely blocked with sand and their will be suction to overcome. It might take a couple winches simultaneosuly or 2, even 3 vehicles with tow straps. Might involve digging down to reach axles for attachment points. This vehicle is unibody contruction, so there may not be strong attachment points on the sheetmetal subframe. Cross fingers and hope that parts don't rip loose before this SUV comes out.

I've recovered a few near San Felipe that were stuck this bad. More muddy than sandy. Almost always prefer to rig multiple tow straps to other trucks. I dislike risking my vehicle by using the winch in a tidal zone or getting salt water on my undercarriage.

This is one situation where an exhaust jack might work well for the initial raising to the point where it can be winched or pulled.

How would other Nomads approach this stuck situation?

AKgringo - 7-24-2020 at 05:47 PM

Report it stolen? :?:

SFandH - 7-24-2020 at 06:28 PM

Sign the pink slip over to the highest bidder. You might get a couple hundred dollars.

JZ - 7-24-2020 at 06:40 PM

Quote: Originally posted by Maderita  

You're probably joking, but if you want a serious answer:
Dig under the rear bumper. There is likely a 2" receiver hitch. If so, dig down enough to place a plywood base for the jack. If no plywood, the spare tire is an option. Lift the rear with the Hi-Lift. Fill in the holes where the tires were. Air down to 6 or 8 psi. Then hope that you have a 4x4 with a winch. Attach a snatch block to the receiver hitch and run the wire rope back to the winching vehicle to double the line pull (twice the pulling power, but at half the speed). Dig the 4x4 in using 2WD, then 4x4 so that it sinks into the sand. Otherwise the winching vehicle will slide forward. Pop the hood up to prevent shackle/wire rope flying through the windshield. Weight the wire rope with a tool bag on a carabiner, or use whatever you have. Engine running for higher voltage to the winch = more power. Make sure that the stuck vehicle is in neutral, parking brake released. Front tires pointed straight ahead. If no winch, then a hefty recovery strap. Keep the bystanders well out of the way. Designate a person to monitor that because there will be dozens drinking beer and sticking their noses into dangerous business.

This is a deep stuck situation with sand filled all around. Particularly bad as the tires are completely blocked with sand and their will be suction to overcome. It might take a couple winches simultaneosuly or 2, even 3 vehicles with tow straps. Might involve digging down to reach axles for attachment points. This vehicle is unibody contruction, so there may not be strong attachment points on the sheetmetal subframe. Cross fingers and hope that parts don't rip loose before this SUV comes out.

I've recovered a few near San Felipe that were stuck this bad. More muddy than sandy. Almost always prefer to rig multiple tow straps to other trucks. I dislike risking my vehicle by using the winch in a tidal zone or getting salt water on my undercarriage.

This is one situation where an exhaust jack might work well for the initial raising to the point where it can be winched or pulled.

How would other Nomads approach this stuck situation?


Very thorough answer.

My answer would be, go get a tractor.


[Edited on 7-25-2020 by JZ]

mtgoat666 - 7-24-2020 at 06:42 PM

Quote: Originally posted by Don Pisto  
a jack you say! what would you recommend here? (from peter geller on fb)



It’s illegal to drive on the beach.

Karma.

I would drive by that chit show w/o stopping, you cant fix stupid.

advrider - 7-24-2020 at 09:18 PM

I agree, tractor or excavator! Probably a little to late...

John Harper - 7-25-2020 at 04:55 AM

It's not stuck at all, it's just a hoax.

John

RFClark - 7-25-2020 at 07:14 AM

In the old days (‘70s) when you could drive and camp on the beach South of Pismo (which is West of Los Angeles). Such sights were very common!

The gas station in Pismo next to the beach as I remember it, had a military Wrecker built on a duce and a half chassis. It had a PTO winch with a hundred or so feet of steel cable on it! For a few hundred dollars and more than a few acerbic comments from the other 4 wheelers who gathered to drink beer and shout “encouragement”, the “dead Head” driver would retrieve your “mistake“ and drag it back to the paved road in town!

Sadly, those days are gone, but the “stupid” lives on. “Darwin and Murphy” never sleep, “It’s a 4X4! It won’t get stuck!” is as great a lie as “I’m from the government and I’m here to help you”! Carry several jacks and shovels always! A winch and a deadman are nice too! Don’t forget to bring lots of beer and water!

Mulege Canuck - 7-25-2020 at 07:50 AM

I have a large come along that a welder made for me. It has a removable 4Ft pipe handle. It has 200 ft of 5/16 Amsteel on the drum and I have a snatch block I rig up to get a 2 to 1 mechanical advantage. I also carry a danforth anchor that I use as a dead man.

I have only needed it a couple of times but I was very glad I had it. 5/16 Amsteel is rope that is as strong as 3/8 steel cable and moves through a block smoothly. Great stuff. I would swap out the steel cable on your winches with this product. Buy it at a commercial fishing store. It will be cheaper there than anywhere else.


Pacifico - 7-25-2020 at 08:14 AM

JZ, I carry the Pro Eagle and have the mount and skidplate from Solo Motorsports. Great combo if you have the room to mount it. I drilled a hole in mine and added a lock to it so that my jack doesn't walk off. They also make one for the cheaper Harbor Freight jack. Here is the link:

https://solomotorsports.com/shop/parts/general-parts/pro-eag...

Ken Cooke - 7-31-2020 at 04:15 PM

I carry tire plugs and tire cement in both Jeeps. Dual compressors/Air Tank in TJ and CO2 in Gladiator. The TJ has a Hi-Lift and a Hi-Lift Base. I'm thinking about buying another Hi-Lift for the Gladiator, but that ARB hydraulic lift is what I really want.

I like to air down my tires to 8 psi on sand and on the trails on both Jeeps.



Pole Line Road - Rich T. plugged a cut sidewall on Saturnino Valdez's Bronco. This went really fast, and Saturnino made it back home to Mexicali that evening on the repaired tire without incident.



I have only sliced one sidewall, requiring a full tire replacement on the trail over the past 20 years. On a day trip south of Bay of L.A. to look at the mangrove area, Tom Severin of Badlands 4x4 had to turn back and return to camp after his BFGoodrich AT sidewall was completely destroyed on the trail south of L.A. Bay. I believe that he also used a Hi-Lift to remove the unrepairable tire on the trail.

Airing up after Calamajue Wash/Pioneer Trail - February 2019. Everyone on the run had on-board air of some type.


Doctor Dave's on-board setup had a special t-split that allowed for continuous pressure at all four tires. He was really proud to show me this system that he produced for the 'El Imposible' trail run - February 2019.




[Edited on 7-31-2020 by Ken Cooke]