BajaNomad

Sierra San Francisco Cave Paintings Trip 10/2021

Bajaboy - 10-16-2021 at 09:56 AM

Just a quick report about our trip to see the cave paintings. While a trip has been on my mind, this was definitely a last minute adventure. My wife and I were in the process of finding someone in Vizcaino to build some circular stairs for our new addition (we found an awesome guy from Oaxaca) when my buddy Beto reached out to me about my contacts up in SSF.

Beto found out he had a week off from work and wanted to finally see the cave paintings for his birthday. I looked at my lovely, beautiful wife and without hesitation she insisted the kids and I join Beto. My wife just picked up two teaching gigs and had to stay behind.

I had three days to prepare our meals and get packed. Beto drove down from Ensenada and arrived at our place in Bahia Asuncion on Sunday. We normally stay the night before at Santa Teresa but the cabins are not available. I'm not sure but I think this might have to do with Covid. We woke up early and made the 2.5 hour drive my place. The sunrise was awesome!

This was my third trip down into the canyon but Beto's first. My kids rode mulas while Beto and I hiked. The trail was really rough due to the recent rains, lack of trips, and that they normally clean the trail in January. I was surprised when my friend/guide Chico told me he hadn't been down into the canyon in over two years.

In all we spent three days in the canyon. The weather was perfect and we had a blast. In addition to our two guides, Chico's son Rodrigo joined us. My kids had played with him before but it was wonderful to watch Chico teach his son how to guide.

I'm just going to leave a link to our photo album. It's long but I figured some might enjoy it. https://photos.app.goo.gl/tFWaijeiyFUucRKs7

David K - 10-16-2021 at 10:23 AM

Super time, indeed... Great photos, Zac!

4x4abc - 10-16-2021 at 11:10 AM

great pics!

TMW - 10-16-2021 at 11:20 AM

Wow what a wonderful trip. Pictures are great, thanks.

BajaBlanca - 10-16-2021 at 12:20 PM

Those photos are EPIC!

Bajaboy - 10-16-2021 at 02:45 PM

Thanks everyone. Fyi, it's 250 pesos per day per mula/burro and 500 pesos per day per guide. There is a small entrance fee and charge for each camera.

BornFisher - 10-16-2021 at 03:12 PM

Great report and pics. Love the burro with the cooler (beer burro?).
Bummer about the guide having no trips for 2 years.
What kind of food did you prepare?

Bajaboy - 10-16-2021 at 05:25 PM

Quote: Originally posted by BornFisher  
Great report and pics. Love the burro with the cooler (beer burro?).
Bummer about the guide having no trips for 2 years.
What kind of food did you prepare?


We learned after our first trip to take more beer than we think we'll need.

For breakfast, we took Costco muffins and coffee. In the past, we made a big breakfast but we realized it took valuable time away from the day. For lunch, my kids made pizzas and I made a smoked marlin pasta salad. For dinner the first night, we had chicken chili and the second night a hearty red lentil with Italian sausage stew. Costco cookies were a hit for after dinner. Oh, Amiga Paulina suggested we make our meals in advance and freeze them. This is a wonderful suggestion both for keeping beer cold but also for ease of preparation.

advrider - 10-16-2021 at 09:06 PM

Amazing photos and information! The hiking part really got my attention, I'm an avid hike but don't care much for horses, they feel the same about me. My wife on the other hand is a 5th generation cattle rancher and loves horses, This could be the perfect trip for us.

Thanks for posting.

Bajaboy - 10-17-2021 at 04:57 AM

Quote: Originally posted by advrider  
Amazing photos and information! The hiking part really got my attention, I'm an avid hike but don't care much for horses, they feel the same about me. My wife on the other hand is a 5th generation cattle rancher and loves horses, This could be the perfect trip for us.

Thanks for posting.


It's just over 6 miles from Guadalupe, where you drop off your car, to camp. The climb out is about 2.5 miles and climbs 1300 ft. If you're in good shape and feel comfortable on rocky terrain, go for it!

Mulege Canuck - 10-17-2021 at 05:34 AM

I am going to have to put that place on my list.

Great report

Thanks

Santiago - 10-17-2021 at 08:15 AM

Thanks Zac, those are great photos and glad to hear things are re-opening. Good idea to post the fees, but what's the deal with a camera fee?

AKgringo - 10-17-2021 at 08:27 AM

Quote: Originally posted by Santiago  
Thanks Zac, those are great photos and glad to hear things are re-opening. Good idea to post the fees, but what's the deal with a camera fee?


Really....and does a smart phone count as a camera?

Aside from taking pictures or selfies, I can't think of a better time and place to leave the phone behind!

[Edited on 10-17-2021 by AKgringo]

David K - 10-17-2021 at 08:48 AM

Quote: Originally posted by Santiago  
Thanks Zac, those are great photos and glad to hear things are re-opening. Good idea to post the fees, but what's the deal with a camera fee?


In 2019, with Cameron's Trail of Missions Recon trip TV team, we were informed about the camera fee and had to negotiate or limit the cameras at San Francisco de la Sierra (Cueva del Ratón). They also had a rule about one guide needed for every 6(?) people (we had three guides).

Down near Mulegé, same trip, I don't think we had a camera restriction at San Borjitas and one guide was all that was required.

surfhat - 10-17-2021 at 11:28 AM

Baja Nomad comes through again thanks to Zak and the generous people here.

New bucket list item for the future.

After driving myself and some old college day friends to Cuevas Raton, and later guided by Zihul, thanks again to Shari, to Cuevas Del Carmen, this burro trip has sparked a further desire to see what the world was like thousands of years ago from this particular perspective.

That these opportunities are available again, with certain requirements that should respected, is a blessing for us and for those who live in these purposely insulated back country locales. Somehow they knew to back off for the time when they could be reassured to not have to suffer the pandemics consequences.

May it only continue to be so. Vaccinate, if not for yourselves, consider any who you come into contact with. These people of the earth deserve nothing less from us.

Rant over, for all the good it will do to some. Peace out.

4x4abc - 10-17-2021 at 12:58 PM

I have done the Cueva Pintada trip endless times the last 35 years
not enough cold drinks was always the problem
one time we convinced some guys from Rancho Santa Teresa to go get beer for us
they ran up the canyon wall
they were back in 3 hours
the beer wasn't cold - but divine nonetheless

trip about 25 images in
https://carlosnpainter.smugmug.com/Travel/Baja-California-Ma...

elgatoloco - 10-17-2021 at 02:11 PM

A bargain at any price! IMEO. :coolup:

True on beer. :lol:

shari - 10-18-2021 at 10:20 AM

Thanks for the trip report amigo! This is something that everyone should do at least once in their life! It is an experience like no other.

Great tip about freezing meals to use as ice in the cooler...brilliant!

bike4mee - 10-19-2021 at 07:31 AM

If we drive up the road to guadalupe will there be
1. A place to camp
2. safe place to leave truck camper while we hike to cave paintings
3. Local guides to hire
4. Should we set this up before driving up the road
gracias

nbentley1 - 10-19-2021 at 08:35 AM

Great report and certainly been of the bucket list for a few years now.

Bajaboy - 10-19-2021 at 01:42 PM

Quote: Originally posted by bike4mee  
If we drive up the road to guadalupe will there be
1. A place to camp
2. safe place to leave truck camper while we hike to cave paintings
3. Local guides to hire
4. Should we set this up before driving up the road
gracias


Yes, there is a place to camp. I didn't lock my truck while down in the canyon for three days.

If you plan on going down into the canyon you need to set this up in advance. I'm happy to share my guide/friend's whatsapp number if want.

[Edited on 10-19-2021 by Bajaboy]

wilderone - 10-20-2021 at 09:06 AM

"I made a smoked marlin pasta salad." wow - I'm impressed. Looks like the kids had the time of their lives. So enjoyed your photos.

I went with a group from Ensenada - we carpooled in one van - 10 of us! Anyway, we camped the evening before, and set up IN the road near one of the ranchos. If you're just a small group, could probably camp on the rancho of your guide. When we finally came up from the canyon at the end of the trip, an enterprising guy had a cooler of cold cervezas - $2 ea.
Is getting permit still done in the small INAH office in San Ignacio? You are assigned a guide. Then you go up the cerro into the village of San Francisco, and check in. Your guide will be contacted and you can make arrangements with him at that time. The guide needs to see how much gear you have in order to know how many mules he needs. If you want to hike instead of ride, you still need mules for gear and one for evacuation purposes. Depending on how long the preparations take, you might be heading into the canyon the next day.

David K - 10-20-2021 at 09:36 AM

In 2019, permits and getting guides was all taken care of at the Hostel Buenaventura, 1 km. before the village of San Francisco. There is a 2-way radio that connects to the homes and ranchos in the area. Guides serve on rotation so money is evenly distributed, we were told.

4x4abc - 10-20-2021 at 11:17 AM

can you stay at the Hostel Buenaventura?

Bajaboy - 10-20-2021 at 11:50 AM

Quote: Originally posted by 4x4abc  
can you stay at the Hostel Buenaventura?


It was closed I believe due to Covid. Normally we stay there the night prior and have Yadira make up fried chicken in a disca...fantastic!

Bajaboy - 10-20-2021 at 11:52 AM

Quote: Originally posted by David K  
In 2019, permits and getting guides was all taken care of at the Hostel Buenaventura, 1 km. before the village of San Francisco. There is a 2-way radio that connects to the homes and ranchos in the area. Guides serve on rotation so money is evenly distributed, we were told.


That is how they handle guides to Cueva Raton. If you want to go into the canyon, you can pick your lead guide but the assistant guides are done on rotation as well.

David K - 10-20-2021 at 03:33 PM

Quote: Originally posted by Bajaboy  
Quote: Originally posted by David K  
In 2019, permits and getting guides was all taken care of at the Hostel Buenaventura, 1 km. before the village of San Francisco. There is a 2-way radio that connects to the homes and ranchos in the area. Guides serve on rotation so money is evenly distributed, we were told.


That is how they handle guides to Cueva Raton. If you want to go into the canyon, you can pick your lead guide but the assistant guides are done on rotation as well.


Where do you get the permits, then? The guide at his ranch sells them (like for San Borjitas)?

David K - 10-20-2021 at 03:42 PM

Quote: Originally posted by 4x4abc  
can you stay at the Hostel Buenaventura?


Here is their contact info:



The website url is dead.
Here is other info. Note that Hostel is spelled Hostal...
https://www.sierradesanfrancisco.inah.gob.mx/hospedaje.php
https://mapcarta.com/HOSTAL_BUENAVENTURA_3196024

David K - 10-20-2021 at 03:48 PM

Trudi Angel (Saddling South muleback tours) just posted photos from San Francisco de la Sierra on her Facebook page:

"A fantastic first-trip-of-the-season, with incredible views and beautiful people, as always. More pics and maybe a video coming soon!"
https://www.facebook.com/saddling.south.7

Bajaboy - 10-20-2021 at 04:06 PM

Quote: Originally posted by David K  
Quote: Originally posted by Bajaboy  
Quote: Originally posted by David K  
In 2019, permits and getting guides was all taken care of at the Hostel Buenaventura, 1 km. before the village of San Francisco. There is a 2-way radio that connects to the homes and ranchos in the area. Guides serve on rotation so money is evenly distributed, we were told.


That is how they handle guides to Cueva Raton. If you want to go into the canyon, you can pick your lead guide but the assistant guides are done on rotation as well.


Where do you get the permits, then? The guide at his ranch sells them (like for San Borjitas)?


Yes, you get the permits at the hostel/restaurant at St. Teresa. Chico and Yadira live there. I have hired Chico three times now and would recommend him. He can be contacted via Whatsapp at 52 615 103 3490

They now have wifi via repeaters as well and I noticed a power line going up to one of the hills.

David K - 10-20-2021 at 04:28 PM

Thanks Zac... Any new website to replace the one that is offline? www.sierrasanfrancisco.com or www.sierrasanfrancisco.com.mx do not work.

Bajaboy - 10-20-2021 at 06:22 PM

Quote: Originally posted by lencho  
Quote: Originally posted by Bajaboy  
...fried chicken in a disca...fantastic!

What's a "disca"?


It's a big metal pan that they use to fry food in...think of an oversized wok. Yadira fries the chicken for a long time over mesquite in the disca....fantastico!

elgatoloco - 10-20-2021 at 10:09 PM

Quote: Originally posted by Bajaboy  
Quote: Originally posted by David K  
Quote: Originally posted by Bajaboy  
Quote: Originally posted by David K  
In 2019, permits and getting guides was all taken care of at the Hostel Buenaventura, 1 km. before the village of San Francisco. There is a 2-way radio that connects to the homes and ranchos in the area. Guides serve on rotation so money is evenly distributed, we were told.


That is how they handle guides to Cueva Raton. If you want to go into the canyon, you can pick your lead guide but the assistant guides are done on rotation as well.


Where do you get the permits, then? The guide at his ranch sells them (like for San Borjitas)?


Yes, you get the permits at the hostel/restaurant at St. Teresa. Chico and Yadira live there. I have hired Chico three times now and would recommend him. He can be contacted via Whatsapp at 52 615 103 3490

They now have wifi via repeaters as well and I noticed a power line going up to one of the hills.


Chico IS the man! :cool:

elgatoloco - 10-20-2021 at 10:12 PM

Quote: Originally posted by Bajaboy  
Quote: Originally posted by lencho  
Quote: Originally posted by Bajaboy  
...fried chicken in a disca...fantastic!

What's a "disca"?


It's a big metal pan that they use to fry food in...think of an oversized wok. Yadira fries the chicken for a long time over mesquite in the disca....fantastico!


That chicken was delish! I will say that the whole time I watched her work the coals and adjust the temperature I was wondering how the carnitas out of that disca would taste. :dudette:
Next time!

LancairDriver - 10-20-2021 at 10:57 PM

Quote: Originally posted by David K  
Trudi Angel (Saddling South muleback tours) just posted photos from San Francisco de la Sierra on her Facebook page:

"A fantastic first-trip-of-the-season, with incredible views and beautiful people, as always. More pics and maybe a video coming soon!"
https://www.facebook.com/saddling.south.7


I was happy to work with Trudi coordinating with the ranchers earlier this year and financing purchase of feed for a few months when the ranchers were having trouble keeping their cattle alive due to lack of feed. The lack of rain caused a bad situation for them. Thankfully the rain came and got things back on track. Several others helped out also. Well worth keeping their traditional lifestyle going.

[Edited on 10-21-2021 by LancairDriver]

Bajaboy - 10-21-2021 at 07:15 AM

Quote: Originally posted by elgatoloco  
Quote: Originally posted by Bajaboy  
Quote: Originally posted by lencho  
Quote: Originally posted by Bajaboy  
...fried chicken in a disca...fantastic!

What's a "disca"?


It's a big metal pan that they use to fry food in...think of an oversized wok. Yadira fries the chicken for a long time over mesquite in the disca....fantastico!


That chicken was delish! I will say that the whole time I watched her work the coals and adjust the temperature I was wondering how the carnitas out of that disca would taste. :dudette:
Next time!


We asked Chico and Angel, our guides, their favorite way to eat goat. They both said "disca". Time for me to try some. When you coming down?

David K - 10-21-2021 at 10:06 AM

Quote: Originally posted by LancairDriver  
Quote: Originally posted by David K  
Trudi Angel (Saddling South muleback tours) just posted photos from San Francisco de la Sierra on her Facebook page:

"A fantastic first-trip-of-the-season, with incredible views and beautiful people, as always. More pics and maybe a video coming soon!"
https://www.facebook.com/saddling.south.7


I was happy to work with Trudi coordinating with the ranchers earlier this year and financing purchase of feed for a few months when the ranchers were having trouble keeping their cattle alive due to lack of feed. The lack of rain caused a bad situation for them. Thankfully the rain came and got things back on track. Several others helped out also. Well worth keeping their traditional lifestyle going.

[Edited on 10-21-2021 by LancairDriver]


Very cool... I spoke with her over the phone a few years ago when she was visiting with our very own Nomad mule-lady, Baja Bucko (Teddi). I also know of the situation at Rancho San Francisco and Santa Marta (Martha) during the 'Covid killing' of tourism that many were assisting with. Andy Schouten of https://www.makeacommitment.org/ was also helping bring food donations to the mountain people of Baja.

mule trip

esemjay1956 - 10-24-2021 at 02:07 PM

My wife and I made the trip three years ago with Trudy and Saddling South (which I strongly recommend) as we live in Loreto. The most amazing trip of my life which I won't do again...
The guides were totally amazing, the food fabulous but it was 90 and the small mexican saddles with stirrups that didn't fit my long legs made it tough. That said a truly cosmic experience, my wife would go every week if she could.
I encourage everyone who can see this, it's a lifetime experience! The hows,
whys, and whens of these paintings will boggle your mind. Some of the pics might look a little like aliens.....

wilderone - 10-25-2021 at 09:29 AM

Hostel Buenaventura - now on My List. Thanks for the info.

Bajaboy - 10-26-2021 at 06:36 PM

One of our son's school assignments was to write about his trip to Sierra San Francisco. He just finished and posted it. Let me know what you think....I'm pretty impressed...he's 13.

http://bajaboyadventures.blogspot.com/2021/10/a-trip-to-sier...

shari - 10-27-2021 at 11:51 AM

Quote: Originally posted by LancairDriver  
Quote: Originally posted by David K  
Trudi Angel (Saddling South muleback tours) just posted photos from San Francisco de la Sierra on her Facebook page:

"A fantastic first-trip-of-the-season, with incredible views and beautiful people, as always. More pics and maybe a video coming soon!"
https://www.facebook.com/saddling.south.7


I was happy to work with Trudi coordinating with the ranchers earlier this year and financing purchase of feed for a few months when the ranchers were having trouble keeping their cattle alive due to lack of feed. The lack of rain caused a bad situation for them. Thankfully the rain came and got things back on track. Several others helped out also. Well worth keeping their traditional lifestyle going.
[Edited on 10-21-2021 by LancairDriver]


The ranchers have indeed fallen on hard times so it's always lovely to bring something special for them when you visit, things they cant get...they love seeds, magazines, books, batteries, solar stuff, yarn, thread for embroidery etc. non perishable food stuffs, canned yummies, goodies.

I am really enjoying Zac and his kids blog musings about living in Bahia Asuncion....so cool to hear their neat prospective.

[Edited on 10-27-2021 by shari]

Doug Landolfi - 3-27-2022 at 12:26 PM

Hey Zac!! Mi amigo :) Looks like you had a wonderful trip! The pictures are great, and you and the kids look good!

Bajaboy - 3-27-2022 at 04:01 PM

Quote: Originally posted by Doug Landolfi  
Hey Zac!! Mi amigo :) Looks like you had a wonderful trip! The pictures are great, and you and the kids look good!


Doug, let me know when you want to go. I'd love to share the canyon's beauty!