Santiago - 5-20-2022 at 09:31 AM
A few weeks ago four of us did a 2-day wine valle trip after a year away, found that some things are rapidly changing while others are still the same.
Reservations required at many of the larger venues; you can no longer just drive around without a ‘plan’ backed up with reservations. We could
not get into the following wineries as we did not make reservations: Bruma, Las Nubes, Mogor. Lechuza has always required reservations and we had
them, their website makes it very easy as they use OpenTable. The other three did not have a user-friendly way of making reservations requiring
direct email or calling them. I suspect that many other wineries may also have the same requirements.
These wineries we were still able to show up and get served: Decantos, Sol Y Barro, Tres Mujeres, Alximia, and Venidos Malagon.
The highlight of the trip was a fluke. We stayed at Rancho Maria Teresa (Posada Inn) in the two cabanas at the back of their property. This is a
great place for two couples as they have a firepit out front just for the two cabanas and it’s separated from most of the motel rooms. On our 2nd
day, after getting turned away from Mogor around 2:00pm, we said “phukit, let’s go back to the Rancho and play cribbage”, drink some wine and
eat all the snacks our friends brought (awesome cold-smoked salmon). Maria Teresa had closed their wine tasting room last year, it’s now a small
gift shop with coffee and teas.
When we parked, it was in front of where they used to make and store the wine and out walks a guy. One in our group has never met a stranger, walks
up to him and asks if we can taste some of the Rancho’s wine. Turns out the guy is Maria Terresa’s son-in-law and is restarting their wine
operation. He takes us into a tasting room behind the office, pulls out a bottle of 2012 Nebbiolo and pours three fingers for each of us. Just us 5,
all very chatty, and everyone raises the glass for a taste.
Not trying to be overly dramatic, but the room got very quiet as we all knew that this was special. We all take another sip just to make sure we
aren’t nuts, set our glasses down and turn to stare at son-in-law. He’s grinning like a Cheshire cat, knows what he has and starts into a long
dissertation on how Nebbiolo was brought over by the Italians and turns out to be just perfect for the valle. Best wine we have ever had in the valle
and maybe anywhere for that matter. They do have some 2013 for sale, but only a handful of cases left. You snooze, you lose.
The reservation requirements have resulted from a crush of people showing up in vans and buses over-powering the venue’s ability to offer a positive
experience to their visitors. Some are changing what they do. For example, Bruma requires you to reserve an hour slot where they give you a winery
tour followed by 3 different flights. You can not buy a glass or bottle and drink it on site, trying to get away from the bar-hopping crowd.
Mateo-Feo - 7-12-2022 at 02:43 PM
Too bad it's getting so busy but good for their industry. It was definitely nice to visit in the sleepy days when tastings were free or cheap and you
could buy a bottle and just hang out all day. Some of the smaller places outside the Valle are pretty cool too. I guess we need to start branching out
mtgoat666 - 7-12-2022 at 04:10 PM
Reservations required? Yuck!
I suppose best to go off-season weekdays, eh?
Don Pisto - 7-12-2022 at 04:30 PM
yup hit it on the off season when most are closed and enjoy the many xlnt craft breweries in ensenada!