BajaNomad - Anyone ever done or thought about doing a van conversion to create a Baja rig?

I'm on my 4th Baja van (third 4x4 van), so definitely have some opinions. I am budget-minded and do most of my own modifications. Definitely not one to plunk down $100K+ for something to beat up in Baja or have every thief eyeballing it.

That is a good start with a van on a truck (ladder chassis) frame. Ford E250 (3/4 ton) or better, an E350 (1 ton). The extended "Supervan" is nice for camping and extra gear. The rear overhang and compromised departure angle are limiting when it comes to rockcrawling.

You wouldn't be disappointed in the power of the V-10 engine, but if you will be hurting at the gas pump @ 7-9 mpg. A 5.4L V-8 should be more economical while still providing plenty of power.

If you can acquire an older van with a 7.3L diesel (Ford discontinued the 7.3 around 2004), a buddy got 16 mpg highway with conservative speeds. Research carefully before considering a diesel engine; the newer engines have mixed reviews, expensive repairs and maintenance, and ever more restrictive emissions requirements.

OEM axle gearing would ideally be 3.73 ratio for up to 33" tires. But if you doing the labor to install locking diffs, the additional parts to regear to 4.10 is only a few hundred dollars. With a lift and some liberal trimming, you might be able to run 35" tires. Research that as I can't say for sure.

Front axle for the conversion should be OEM Ford parts. Dana 60 preferred, but a Dana 44 will do the job. Manual locking hubs, not automatic locking. Warn Premium Hubs (the basic model will grenade, don't ask how I know).

Install locking diffs front and rear, Eaton E-Locker (electro-magnetic ball-ramp mechanism for engagement) are durable and trouble free. ARB is also good but problematic to retain pneumatic pressure and internal oil seal (again, don't ask).

Bumpers don't have to be exotic. I see a lot of 4x4 vans with $8-10k in bumpers. "Aluminess" in Santee makes nice looking aluminum bumpers. Nice looking for mall-crawling, that is. I refused to put my Hi-Lift jack under a friend's for fear of bending his expensive bumper. Steel bumpers can be repaired or modified with a stick welder or MIG.

What's with all the vans with the ladder mounted on the side? I laugh at the sight every time one drives past! It screams "wannabe". My apologies to any Nomads who have one. I would have destroyed dozens of ladders by now or left one on numerous trees/chaparral. Either mount it to the rear door, or learn to climb!

Warn 12,000 or 15,000 lb. winch. I prefer steel wire rope for infrequent use and durability/longevity. At least one, if not two high strength snatch blocks in the recovery kit to double your line-pull power. You could try a Chinese knockoff, such as, Harbor Freight's "Badlands" for 1/2 or 1/3 the cost. It might work when you are in a desperate situation.

Get black or dark blue exterior paint if you want to look "cool". Get white, silver or desert beige if you want to be cool.

I heard from someone recently planning to convert an E350 to 4x4 by a company in Utah. So, that may be Advanced Four Wheel Drive. iirc, $12-15k now, up from $8-10k a decade ago. http://advanced4x4vans.com/4x4-van/ford-4x4-van-conversion/

Quigley of Pennsylvania produced a lot of 4x4 conversions on new (from the factory) vans. You find these on the used market. They used a solid front axle with coil springs. Many problems with the steering geometry. A decade or more ago, Quigley switched over to solid axle with leaf springs, like everyone else. Leaf springs are certainly my preference, as I can modify the spring rate to my liking by adding or subtracting a leaf.

Sportsmobile does the fiberglass camper top conversions. Not without some minor problems. They camper-ized Quigley 4x4 conversions years ago, then started doing their own 4x4 conversions.
If money is no object, Sportsmobile will work with you on a custom build to your specs.

For Baja, you will want an onboard air system, incl air fittings front and rear. Definitely a larger aftermarket fuel tank. A 20 gallon OEM tank drains quickly. I believe Transfer Flow has a good one. https://www.transferflow.com/

My choice is BFG All Terrain KO2, load range E tires. Of course, opinions will vary.
Fox 2.0 emulsion shocks (rebuildable) and a steering stabilizer. Agile Offroad in Santee can get the right tune for the shocks. https://agileoffroad.com/

Install an ABS cutoff switch for offroad use. With ABS active it will take 2x or 3x the distance to stop your heavy van on dirt and gravel roads (again, don't ask how I know).

Add alarm system with ignition kill, install a fuel pump cutoff switch, locking lug nuts, insure the hell out of it, and have your big dogs protecting the investment.

Hey Maderita, I really appreciated all this detailed and excellent advice! Thank you for taking the time to write it out.

[Edited on 2-4-2024 by JZ]

JZ - 2-4-2024 at 02:46 PM

Quote: Originally posted by RFClark

JZ,

If this is a design project consider going electric. Flexible solar panels are much litghter and don’t use glass. You probably need 1000W+ worth of panels 4 - 12V Li ion batteries and a 4-5KW inverter/charger. Add a shore power plug for park camping.

The flexable panels can be designed into a sun shade and installed on the roof if you do a rased roof van. If you go with a diesel consider a diesel hot water and heating system.

Show us what your son designs.

Will definitely look into it.

PaulW - 2-4-2024 at 04:36 PM

And if you want to go faster on crappy Baja roads the the place to deal with that is:
https://agileoffroad.com/
The shock upgrade is the best thing the sell. Last I checked the were a Fox distributor. The lead guy, Glen, was the ones that designed and built my 96 and my 72 bronco suspension
And of course the sell all kinds of aftermarket special items for mostly vans.

JZ - 2-4-2024 at 06:58 PM

And if you want to go faster on crappy Baja roads the the place to deal with that is:
https://agileoffroad.com/
The shock upgrade is the best thing the sell. Last I checked the were a Fox distributor. The lead guy, Glen, was the ones that designed and built my 96 and my 72 bronco suspension
And of course the sell all kinds of aftermarket special items for mostly vans.

Nice, appreciate the info Paul.

Maderita - 2-4-2024 at 07:52 PM

de nada JZ

advrider - 2-4-2024 at 10:21 PM

The other thing about panels is that they need sun. Portable one's mean you don't have to be roasting in the sun to get power, lay they them out and park in the shade.
Good suspension is key to bad roads. Leaf springs can be made to work pretty good, but coils are king, but$$$ as well.

bajaric - 2-5-2024 at 12:17 PM

I have looked at vans, would be nice to not have to crawl in and out of the back of a pickup truck with a camper shell. The problem is the price. There are tons of old beat-up high mileage cargo vans on the market for cheap, but most of them have live a hard life. To get a late model van the cost is the same as a truck, then you have to do a whole bunch of custom work to the suspension to get the same performance as a stock 4x4 truck you can buy off the shelf. I can't even afford one of those! Well I could but I am way too cheap to fork out sixty grand for a vehicle when I have a perfectly serviceable low mileage 2WD f150 that cost 29K new in 2016 and gets 25 mpg on the highway. I will admit I have occasionally had to turn around and wished I had 4x4, especially in sand or on really steep grades.

[Edited on 2-5-2024 by bajaric]

Maderita - 2-5-2024 at 03:10 PM

bajaric,
Impressive fuel mileage! Do you have the 5.4L, V8?

If you have never had a locking rear differential in a 2WD, you'd be amazed at the difference it makes. I frequently engage my selectable rear locker, saving 4WD for "insurance" to be used only when 2WD locked does not provide enough traction. Those instances are rare.

I have to admit, it's a bit of a game with me as to what I can do in 2WD with a rear locker. I've encountered a few situations where conventional 4x4's with open diffs couldn't climb the hill and I had little difficulty. That is the case in two distinct situations:

Where there is little traction on one side (either passenger side or driver's side) of the vehicle, conventional 4WD and open diffs will spin both tires on that side. The tires on the side with better traction do nothing to assist.

The other situation is hills or obstacles with staggered holes. Trails often develop holes/ruts where open diffs have caused a front right and left rear tire to spin, and vice versa. The 2WD with a rear locker may achieve better traction. It helps that when climbing a hill, more weight shifts to the rear axle.

A limited-slip differential (aka: Positraction) is better than an open diff, but nowhere near as effective as a locking diff. Selectable (part-time) lockers are best for most folks. Unless the primary purpose and frequent use is for serious offroad. I've had full-time lockers, and their highway manners need getting used to.

An Econoline van with a suspension lift, offroad shocks, a locking rear diff, and all-terrain tires might just serve you well, and on a reasonable budget.

bajaric - 2-5-2024 at 06:25 PM

Hi Maderita, that is some good information to ponder. I am going to have to start researching locking rear differentials and suspension upgrades for a 2WD van.

To be truthful my truck might get 25 mpg on a flat road with a wind behind it, usually it is closer to 23 on the highway. It is a basic stock F150 regular cab with a 2.7l turbocharged "ecoboost" engine, around town it gets maybe 18. However, that tiny little engine puts out 300 plus horsepower. It is pretty quick when passing etc. though I am not sure how much towing I would do with it, no substitute for cubic inches.

The other thing is that it came with stock street tires, and they do not make all terrains to fit that size rim. So not a super hard core offroad machine by any stretch, though the long wheelbase and rear wheel drive will get it a lot of places. Basically, anywhere a Mexican rancher can get to, which is a lot of Baja.

My dream rig would be an innocuous looking van like an e250 with the upgrades you suggested and a little ebike dirtbike. Then park the van in the campground and go off exploring on the ebike.

Maderita - 2-5-2024 at 07:38 PM

bajaric,
I've had vans since the late 1970s. Always liked to be able to pull over and sleep, keep my gear out of view and locked up, have lots of cargo space and a long rooftop for kayaks, etc. I've always maintained a second 4x4 for lighter/faster trips or rockcrawling/dunes - various Jeeps and full-size Broncos mostly.

Lifting the rear suspension of an Econoline is easy. Just add a pair of lift blocks, and the longer U-bolts. Look for blocks with the built-in taper, or use degree shims to maintain correct pinion shaft angle. Add longer shocks, which you would want to replace anyway for offroading.

I haven't lifted the front of an Econoline, though I imagine it is much the same as lifting a 2WD F-series pickup.

Check out the Eaton E-Locker here.
https://www.eaton.com/us/en-us/catalog/differentials/eaton-e...

Eaton has some good basic info here:
https://www.eaton.com/us/en-us/products/differentials-tracti...

Don't even think about using a drop-in type of locker to save money.
It will cost waaay more when it grenades and you end up having to rebuild the entire axle (don't ask how I know).

pacificobob - 2-6-2024 at 05:26 AM

Don't forget to include conspicuous sand ladders. Preferably orange in color.
Perhaps an overpriced silly fuel container or two.

sandpoint - 2-6-2024 at 10:48 AM

I believe U-Joint Off Road sells one of the best engineered 4wd conversion kits for the Ford Vans.

https://www.ujointoffroad.com/products/e-series-4x4-conversi...

Marty Mateo - 2-6-2024 at 09:06 PM

I’m a building lifted 2wd Chevy Express 2500 long wheel base. My focus is a separate garage area for a couple of dirt bikes and for use as a sealed area for coatings used by my business.
This is after the 4” Weld Tech lift kit was installed and taller tires.
I’m not putting much camper type stuff in it, just a bed/couch setup and carry a portable fridge and stove but plan to eat out mostly especially in Baja. I looked at a few 4x4 vans but they’re pretty rare up here and usually not for sale at a reasonable price. I figured I’d be on my bike by the time things get really rough , but I would like to install a locker. I’m interested to know more about air vs electric as I thought air would be better as I’d have a compressor on board for airing up the tires.

IMG_2068.jpeg - 135kB

Maderita - 2-7-2024 at 01:18 AM

Quote: Originally posted by Marty Mateo

...I would like to install a locker. I’m interested to know more about air vs electric as I thought air would be better as I’d have a compressor on board for airing up the tires.

Hola Marty,

Nice van and a worthwhile project.

ARB of Australia produces the "Air Locker". It is a selectable (part-time) locker, activated with pneumatic pressure. In addition to the mechanical unit, it requires a 12v compressed air supply connected by flexible tubing to the axle housing. The axle housing is drilled to accommodate a fitting. Air pressure is required to maintain engagement. The cost of the unit is about the same as electrically operated lockers. However, the additional need for a compressor and the extra cost of plumbing installation can add a few hundred dollars.

Opinions vary. I haven't heard complaints about the durability of the unit. Complaints are typically about three things:
1. Air leaks anywhere between the pump and differential housing causing loss of pressure. The flexible airline can snag or pinch or break.
2. A small seal can fail inside the diff housing, causing gear oil to backflow up the air line and leak.
3. The air compressor fails or wears out and needs to be rebuilt or replaced.

I have experienced each of these failures. Parts were available in the USA from Seattle for an air piston rebuild kit. My ARB compressor fills its attached pint-size attached air tank. By opening a 1/4-turn ball valve, a frame mounted 5 gallon air tank is pressurized when desired. That large tank is in turn connected to air fittings front and rear for attaching hoses to fill tires, etc.

Electrical power to the compressor is operated from a toggle switch under on the lower dash. A toggle switch next to it controls a solenoid which releases air to activate the air locker.

My compressor is mounted to the frame, near the rear axle. A modification is to add a rubber hose which goes through the sheet metal floor of the van to the cargo space. The compressor draws clean air, rather than sucking dust from the undercarriage.

It's convenient to have on board air. But due to multiple past failures, I still carry a Viair 350C for a backup compressor.

The Eaton (parent company to Detroit) E-Locker is electronically activated. I believe the Detroit Locker was the original, full-time, locking diff. Always a strong reputation as far as I'm aware.

My first experience with lockers was in the 1970s on a rockclimbing trip in the Sierra de Juarez. We had a heavy van mired in mud to the axles. Walker Evans happened to be prerunning nearby. He drove a 2WD race truck with a Detroit Locker and snatched us out with extreme roost from BOTH rear tires, powered by a built V-8. My buddy recognized Walker, the number one offroad racer of the era, famous for winning in 2WD trucks.

Since that day, I've had a Detroit Locker in Broncos, Jeeps, and 4x4 vans. The handling characteristics of a full-time locker are objectionable unless you learn to love them in some misguided way. When I installed a Ford 8.8" rear axle in a 260 HP Wrangler, I chose the selectable Eaton E-Locker. Droving it hard rockcrawling and sand duning, there were zero disappointments.

The E-Locker is activated by a lighted toggle switch on the dash. That signals an electromagnetic ball-ramp mechanism in the unit. No fuss, nothing to maintain. And no air leaks, ever.

I have not used other brands but have heard that the newer, cable- activated Ox Lockers are durable. Others brands to check out may be Yukon "Grizzly" and Auburn Gear.

Find out which rear axle is under your van, also the gear ratio. Then see which brand of locker is available for that axle. If not satisfied with the gear ratio, install a new ring & pinion set with the locker to save on labor. The parts for the re-gearing should be about $300-$400.

If you have OEM 3.42 to 3.50 ratio, that's probably good for gas mileage and OEM tires. For your bigger tires (are they 33"?) most likely 3.73 gears or even 4.10 ratio. Do some research on that with your specific engine/trans.

Hope this helps. Be sure to get back to us with your build. And photos, or "it didn't happen".

BooJumMan - 2-7-2024 at 08:31 AM

Speaking of lockers, the OEM Ford E-lockers will drop into older Sterling 10.5 axles. I bought mine new for $700ish from a 2011+ Ford Super Duty and put it into my 2001. All you need is a switched 12V source and to route the wires into the diff.
I've never had air lockers but have heard the mean time between failures are higher than an E locker.

PaulW - 2-7-2024 at 09:28 AM

A locker is for serious obstacles. A limited slip may be more appropriate for a van conversion?
I would think a Trutrac front and rear would be a better solution.
Agree the Air locker were certainly the way to go back in the day, but now the electric ones are superior.

AKgringo - 2-7-2024 at 09:57 AM

This would not be as worrisome for Baja travel, but if you anticipate driving that van on icy roads, a locker can spin you out in a heartbeat. I had one in a Suburban with 35-inch mud tires that was damned scary if the front axle was not engaged on an icy road.

For what it is worth, I don't like leaf springs. You may need them for a heavy rig, but my favorite off road vehicle have all had coils, torsion bars, or a combination of both.

[Edited on 2-7-2024 by AKgringo]

geoffff - 2-8-2024 at 12:32 AM

What's with all the vans with the ladder mounted on the side? I laugh at the sight every time one drives past! It screams "wannabe". My apologies to any Nomads who have one. I would have destroyed dozens of ladders by now or left one on numerous trees/chaparral. Either mount it to the rear door, or learn to climb!

Then again I've ripped off about five passenger-side mirrors over the years, so perhaps I tend to cut it a bit close.

[Edited on 2-8-2024 by geoffff]

JZ - 2-8-2024 at 12:37 AM

I know, really!?!? Sure it looks cool, but that thing would get torn off on any of the road trips I've done. No one understands this when I try to point this out. Anyway, when I added a ladder, I put it on the back.

Then again I've ripped off about five passenger-side mirrors over the years, so perhaps I tend to cut it a bit close.

Give me your thoughts Geoff. Love the pics of you traveling with your van.

geoffff - 2-8-2024 at 12:45 AM

I've had my van for 20 years now, and many of its offroad miles have been in Baja. Feel free to ask me about it.

Mine is a 2004 Sportsmobile 4x4. (Sportsmobile now calls itself "Field Van"). Note the side-ladder [:eyeroll:]

[Edited on 2-8-2024 by geoffff]

geoffff - 2-8-2024 at 01:09 AM

I've loved having my van over the years.

The size is (regular body van) is a good compromise between interior space, and the ability to turn around on the trail.

Being a van means the front seats (which flip around) become part of the living space when camping. And I can easily grab a drink from the fridge while driving.

It's not quite a Jeep, but I can take it almost anywhere. It's fun to surprise the ATVs on the trail. And then I get to camp all alone at amazing remote locations.

The large double-side doors means the van feels like part of the environment while I am camping. The camper merges with the outdoor campsite. Compare this to most campers, which have narrow single doors – in these, you're either inside or you're outside.

The pop-top means I can stand up while parked, and still drive under low-hanging branches (8-foot high).

The pop-top means an amazing tent-like bed with panoramic views and cross-breeze. I love it – except for the fact that I can't leave the bed made while driving. I have to remove and put away all the sheets and blankets every time I lower the pop-top to break camp. This was fine for a while, but after hundreds of camping nights this has started getting old.

Some more criticisms:

The suspension is harsh because the front end has very little up-travel. The front axle is only an inch below the engine, so there's very little room absorb any bumps on the trail. Unless I air the tires way down, the ride is very harsh offroad, and so I'm often crawling along at 10 MPH on trails.

My most significant van problem these days is that the van's body is littered with cracks from frame-flex abuse over the years. The van just wasn't designed for frame flex, like a pickup truck would be. I keep trying to weld up the cracks as I see them, but there are more I can't see. Not sure what I can do about all this except think about starting over with a new van soon. 20 years is a good run. Also, I tend to break engine mounts and radiator mounts.

ARB air locker -- I have one of these. Nice when it works (and I use it very rarely), but the air compressor fails and needs replacing about once a decade. It's a harsh environment down there under the van.

[Edited on 2-8-2024 by geoffff]

JZ - 2-8-2024 at 01:12 AM

I get the laughter at the side ladder.

Will say one thing. I think the newer ones don't stick out near as much on travel. You can push them up to lay flat against the side of the van.

pacificobob - 2-8-2024 at 06:00 AM

ARB lockers front&rear 10+ year , zero problems

JZ - 3-2-2024 at 08:42 PM

I've loved having my van over the years.

The size is (regular body van) is a good compromise between interior space, and the ability to turn around on the trail.

Being a van means the front seats (which flip around) become part of the living space when camping. And I can easily grab a drink from the fridge while driving.

It's not quite a Jeep, but I can take it almost anywhere. It's fun to surprise the ATVs on the trail. And then I get to camp all alone at amazing remote locations.

The large double-side doors means the van feels like part of the environment while I am camping. The camper merges with the outdoor campsite. Compare this to most campers, which have narrow single doors – in these, you're either inside or you're outside.

The pop-top means I can stand up while parked, and still drive under low-hanging branches (8-foot high).

The pop-top means an amazing tent-like bed with panoramic views and cross-breeze. I love it – except for the fact that I can't leave the bed made while driving. I have to remove and put away all the sheets and blankets every time I lower the pop-top to break camp. This was fine for a while, but after hundreds of camping nights this has started getting old.

Some more criticisms:

The suspension is harsh because the front end has very little up-travel. The front axle is only an inch below the engine, so there's very little room absorb any bumps on the trail. Unless I air the tires way down, the ride is very harsh offroad, and so I'm often crawling along at 10 MPH on trails.

My most significant van problem these days is that the van's body is littered with cracks from frame-flex abuse over the years. The van just wasn't designed for frame flex, like a pickup truck would be. I keep trying to weld up the cracks as I see them, but there are more I can't see. Not sure what I can do about all this except think about starting over with a new van soon. 20 years is a good run. Also, I tend to break engine mounts and radiator mounts.

ARB air locker -- I have one of these. Nice when it works (and I use it very rarely), but the air compressor fails and needs replacing about once a decade. It's a harsh environment down there under the van.

I've always loved your van Geoff, very impressive all the places you you taken it.

Marty Mateo - 3-3-2024 at 01:57 PM

Not much change other than the graphics. Got a few pieces in the garage for the interior but this project is down on the priority list for a bit . Gotta get my priorities straight, only swung my leg over the dirt bike once this year 🤦‍♂️

IMG_2790.jpeg - 111kB

AKgringo - 3-3-2024 at 02:16 PM

Building a custom camper van is a worthwhile project, and could be a lot of fun. Since I was a kid, I have always loved tinkering with things. It drove my dad nuts over some of the things I just had to take apart!

My problem was always finishing the project before something else got my attention. One would think that retirement would allow me time to get things done, but honestly, I am worse now than ever!

I am better off taking ownership of someone else's dream mobile.

PaulW - 3-3-2024 at 05:37 PM

Geooffff wrote'
The suspension is harsh because the front end has very little up-travel. The front axle is only an inch below the engine, so there's very little room absorb any bumps on the trail. Unless I air the tires way down, the ride is very harsh offroad, and so I'm often crawling along at 10 MPH on trails.
=== =
How Agileoffroad got into business was to resolve the solid axle travel and harshness.
The fix is Coil overs spring/shocks and Twin traction beams combined with Fox Shocks
The company was formed between a highly skilled fabricator and a Fox insider.

Marty Mateo - 3-3-2024 at 07:22 PM

Quote: Originally posted by AKgringo

Building a custom camper van is a worthwhile project, and could be a lot of fun. Since I was a kid, I have always loved tinkering with things. It drove my dad nuts over some of the things I just had to take apart!

My problem was always finishing the project before something else got my attention. One would think that retirement would allow me time to get things done, but honestly, I am worse now than ever!

I am better off taking ownership of someone else's dream
mobile.

Yep, “squirrel syndrome” is a challenge for me too 😂 When I was on my first drive down Baja in 93 I was thinking of what type of vehicle would work best. We were driving a 68 Monaco which was a great conversation starter and got us down all the beach roads. I had the idea to put a sixties chev panel on a late model truck chassis but with no workshop or yard space that plan didn’t go far 😂
It took me many years to get back to Baja and then a further few years to find the time to drive down again. We did two winters with a truck and toy hauler combo which worked great when we were staying in one place but quite often was too big to explore off the tarmac.
We’ll give the van a go and see how that goes up here and down south

Maderita - 3-4-2024 at 05:25 PM

Geooffff wrote'
The suspension is harsh because the front end has very little up-travel. The front axle is only an inch below the engine, so there's very little room absorb any bumps on the trail. Unless I air the tires way down, the ride is very harsh offroad, and so I'm often crawling along at 10 MPH on trails.
=== =
How Agileoffroad got into business was to resolve the solid axle travel and harshness.
The fix is Coil overs spring/shocks and Twin traction beams combined with Fox Shocks
The company was formed between a highly skilled fabricator and a Fox insider.

Geoffff & PaulW,
That must be a very expensive, though agile solution. A much less expensive solution is finding a new set of leaf springs, with softer ride characteristics and proportional to the weight of the van.

A buddy complained that the front suspension of his new (used) Sportsmobile 4x4 E350 was way too stiff and uncomfortable. So bad that his wife wouldn't ride in it. I believe 2004 or 2005 year model. I looked under the front of the van and was surprised to see that the very pricey Deaver springs had eleven leaves! Those springs had about 1" of compression travel to the bump stops. With both of us pushing down on the corner of the bumper, the springs deflected less than 1/2".

I had him take a ride in my E350 Advance 4WD conversion (not a Sportsmobile), with aftermarket leaf springs for comparison. He said,"I want the ride that yours has." I did the research and found a set of Skyjacker "Softride" at $290 each on eBay, free shipping. After installation in my backyard, his van had over 3" of compression travel to the bumpstops, and a much smoother ride over bumps and potholes. His rear suspension was fine, and his Fox 2.0 Emulsion shocks were noticeably superior to my Rancho RS9000's. Problem solved for $750 and 1/2 day of wrenching. His wife then made me the best chocolate-chip cookies.

Geoffff, your van might or might not (edit: DOES NOT) have the same length front leaf springs. Here's what we installed on his van to replace the Deavers:
https://www.4wheelparts.com/p/skyjacker-softride-leaf-spring...

(Edit: You will need shorter springs than the F840S part #. I searched for your post on the broken spring event from 2018 in San Felipe. You reported a 50" leaf spring. These Deavers are 53.5" unweighted.)

You would also need a new set of urethane bushings for the springs and shackles. I recommend replacing the U-bolts during the installation. Sourced those on eBay, $51 for the 4.

Deaver 11-leaf spring, now in my junk pile:

Front spring on my E350 as it sits w/ V10 engine, heavy steel bumper and 12k winch.

That short plate under the spring pack has an offset locating dowel. I moved the axle forward 1" to accommodate the spring lengthening rearward, upon compression.

[Edited on 3-5-2024 by Maderita]

surfhat - 3-5-2024 at 09:19 AM

While my 18 year old Sprinter limo van is not 4wd, I did improve the bottoming out with Sumo bump stop replacements on all four corners.

The difference this makes when bottoming out, as we all will do at some point, is helpful with the mitigating the jolt.

I have seen some hydraulic actuated bump stop replacements that looked even better. When certain suspensions have little room for travel, some softening of the bottoming out is golden.

Coil overs are the bomb. I don't have them on my Sprinter, but Agile Offroad did swap out my original struts and shocks with Fox in the rear and Monroe Magnum struts in the front. Their choice at the time. They added a 2" body lift along with engine and transmission skid plates at the same time. The larger tire size that were put on later have never rubbed the fenders, even when bottoming out on the Sumo bump stops. Thank you Agile Ofroad in Santee, Ca. less than an hour away.

The improved handling has always been appreciated for such a high profile van.

Now back to the pros out there with their real 4wd vans going where I never would or could. Being able to crawl at times is crucial along with always keeping momentum in mind.

Air bags

AKgringo - 3-5-2024 at 09:52 AM

I am probably the only person who would put air bags in the rear coil springs on a little 2 door, rag top Kia Sportage, but they come in handy! I have a tongue heavy off road trailer that tows well, but was too much for the springs on that itty bitty car.

I found that even without the trailer, the airbags improved the performance of the Sportage off road, and on winding paved roads.

They developed a leak over time, but are fairly cheap to replace if you can't find and fix the leak. I did the same thing with my Isuzu Trooper, and it levels out pretty well even when loaded down with firewood.

By the way, I also make the Kia haul wood sometimes.

Salsa - 3-5-2024 at 11:29 AM

Airbags are an excellent solution. They increases the preload without increasing the spring rate much at rest while increasing the rate near the stops.

I built a Baja Squareback using the stock springs and my (Motorsport air shocks) as both spring rate enhancers as well as shocks. The shocks stiffened when the spring rate increased.

Good luck with the project.

Don

geoffff - 3-5-2024 at 11:37 PM

How Agileoffroad got into business was to resolve the solid axle travel and harshness. The fix is Coil overs spring/shocks and Twin traction beams combined with Fox Shocks. The company was formed between a highly skilled fabricator and a Fox insider.

Yeah I've looked longingly at the Agile Offroad's 4x4-conversion using the twin I-beam instead of solid axle.

This van pictured below has the Agile Offroad 4x4 conversion. See how nice and low it sits -- it looks stock -- and the front end still has more suspension travel than my van.

Too bad Agile Offroad no longer does these conversions. Their website says they stopped in 2020 due to lack of Twin I-Beam Dana 50 availability.

And I have also read the Twin I-Beam may not be as beefy as a solid axle.

geoffff - 3-5-2024 at 11:45 PM

A buddy complained that the front suspension of his new (used) Sportsmobile 4x4 E350 was way too stiff and uncomfortable. So bad that his wife wouldn't ride in it. I believe 2004 or 2005 year model. I looked under the front of the van and was surprised to see that the very pricey Deaver springs had eleven leaves! Those springs had about 1" of compression travel to the bump stops. With both of us pushing down on the corner of the bumper, the springs deflected less than 1/2".

I had him take a ride in my E350 Advance 4WD conversion (not a Sportsmobile), with aftermarket leaf springs for comparison. He said,"I want the ride that yours has." I did the research and found a set of Skyjacker "Softride" at $290 each on eBay, free shipping. After installation in my backyard, his van had over 3" of compression travel to the bumpstops, and a much smoother ride over bumps and potholes. His rear suspension was fine, and his Fox 2.0 Emulsion shocks were noticeably superior to my Rancho RS9000's. Problem solved for $750 and 1/2 day of wrenching. His wife then made me the best chocolate-chip cookies.

Thanks for the info, Maderita.

If I understand this, you ended up lifting the front of the van an additional 2" to increase the total compression travel from 1" up to 3", right?

Maderita - 3-6-2024 at 01:28 AM

Thanks for the info, Maderita.

If I understand this, you ended up lifting the front of the van an additional 2" to increase the total compression travel from 1" up to 3", right?

Yes, that is correct.
That is the modification that I did to my van, my friend's van, and to numerous other 4x4s.

It is likely that your springs had little free arch to begin with. Additionally, springs sag over time. Your springs, guessing, have lost 1" of free arch from the time they were new.

Simply replacing your springs with a set having greater free arch will result in a suspension lift.
https://www.eatondetroitspring.com/measuring-leaf-spring-fre...

Aftermarket leaf springs are typically listed as ride height vs. factory/stock height. For example: 2", 4", 6" above factory height. Because our vans were not factory OEM 4x4 conversions, those numbers don't make a direct comparison with a new, unmodified 2WD E350. What you can do, is measure the amount of free arch in your spring and purchase a set one "size" up (2" greater free arch).

With most of these aftermarket springs, Skyjacker "Softride" being one example, the result will be an additional 2 or 2.5" inches in ride height. My experience is that, when driving, the initial inch or two of compression will give a softer ride. The new springs will be less stiff over the rough, smaller bumps and potholes, while still absorbing the big bumps.

The down side to a suspension lift is increased center of gravity and more body roll. That is probably a trade-off that you will gladly accept for more travel and a smoother ride.

Keep in mind when measuring overall spring length that the unweighted new spring will be shorter than your existing spring. Maybe 1" shorter. With the van sitting on a flat, level surface, the spring shackles should be straight up an down. Are yours angled to the rear, now that your springs have settled? Another thing to be aware of when searching for the correct springs, is that the "center bolt" is sometimes in the center of the spring. Other times, the center bolt may be offset, which creates a front and a rear eye of each spring.

I almost hesitate to mention, because it is less than ideal, but you could install an add-a-leaf below each spring pack. The cheapest way to gain an extra inch, about $100. If you aren't aware, it's a single, thick, tapered leaf with more arch which supports the existing spring. Most times you can get by without replacing the shocks. And to be really cheap, sometimes get by without new, longer U-bolts. It will give you more ride height and prevent bottoming out the suspension so easily. I doubt that it would soften the ride, and could make it harsher.

After installing new leaf springs, drive it a while (100 miles?) and re-torque the U-Bolts. I prefer to repeat that after another few hundred miles as springs settle and wear in like a new pair of shoes. Note that I use a high-nut and then double-nut with a regular nut for a lock. That also protects the threads for the next time I have to remove the nuts.

I hope to see your van, proud and tall once again! E350 4x4s rock!

PaulW - 4-16-2024 at 09:48 AM

Battery for overlanding
I went down that rabbit hole and found
https://kickassproducts.com.au/products/kickass-slim-12v-170...
They also have a 125AH version
I thing the battery would be a good choice due to the mounting flexibility
Has anyone hear of the manufacturer?

mtgoat666 - 4-16-2024 at 10:30 AM

Battery for overlanding
I went down that rabbit hole and found
https://kickassproducts.com.au/products/kickass-slim-12v-170...
They also have a 125AH version
I thing the battery would be a good choice due to the mounting flexibility
Has anyone hear of the manufacturer?

Weight is 45 kg. Yikes! Go with lithium or a bank of smaller lead batteries…

DosMars - 4-26-2024 at 01:59 PM

Hey... Let's not hate on the side-ladder crowd! If you're ripping things off your rig you're not paying attention to your mirrors!

Great summation of all the reasons we love the van and the layout we have. Especially the description of having both doors open while camped out. Very nice transition between inside and outside.

I'll add that the lowered pop top when on the road lets us go through most drive-throughs which can be convenient.

Our 4x4 was done by Quigley. As I understand it, all parts sourced from other Ford models so any Ford Dealer can work on it.

I've loved having my van over the years.

Being a van means the front seats (which flip around) become part of the living space when camping. And I can easily grab a drink from the fridge while driving.

It's not quite a Jeep, but I can take it almost anywhere. It's fun to surprise the ATVs on the trail. And then I get to camp all alone at amazing remote locations.

The large double-side doors means the van feels like part of the environment while I am camping. The camper merges with the outdoor campsite. Compare this to most campers, which have narrow single doors – in these, you're either inside or you're outside.

The pop-top means I can stand up while parked, and still drive under low-hanging branches (8-foot high).

The pop-top means an amazing tent-like bed with panoramic views and cross-breeze. I love it – except for the fact that I can't leave the bed made while driving. I have to remove and put away all the sheets and blankets every time I lower the pop-top to break camp. This was fine for a while, but after hundreds of camping nights this has started getting old.

We use a fitted sheet and comforter up top. When we're ready to hit the road, I just fold it once each long and short-wise so it fits on the big half of the bed (that lifts with the top when not in use). When you drop the top, the bedding squeezes down and just travels, sandwitched up there.

[Edited on 2-8-2024 by geoffff]

Santo Thomas Spring Break '17 (600 x 450).jpg - 69kB

Maderita - 4-26-2024 at 07:29 PM

Quote: Originally posted by DosMars

Hey... Let's not hate on the side-ladder crowd! If you're ripping things off your rig you're not paying attention to your mirrors!

Nice rig DosMars. Do you have the Dana 60 on coil springs up front? Which engine?

No disrespect to your van. The side ladders may be perfectly fine for you on highways, wide dirt roads, open desert, and beaches. When driving through tight mountain trails and canyons, overgrown chaparral, or pinyon forest as geoffff and I do, a side mounted ladder with attached sheet metal is vulnerable.

Some "desert pinstriping" is unavoidable while squeezing a full size van between obstacles. I try to remember to fold the side mirrors in, before the branches have a chance to do it for me.

geoffff - 4-26-2024 at 10:16 PM