BajaNomad - Tires again....

Tires again....

surfer jim - 4-16-2005 at 10:01 PM

Will be needing new tires for my 4x4 soon....245 75r 16....I like bfg's a/t but they cut gas mileage about 2 mpg on my old truck....was wondering what else is available/recomended...got some ideas?....

David K - 4-16-2005 at 10:14 PM

Futura Dakota H/T mfg. by Cooper and sold at Pep Boys... simular tread style to All Terrain T/A'S but 1/3 to 1/2 the price.

Bedman introduced me to them, and I am very happy as they are quiet... and cheap (compared to BFG). I have 265/70-16" on my Tacoma.

Neal Johns - 4-16-2005 at 10:24 PM

The problem with David K's choice is like most tires, Cooper's only have two ply sidewalls. BFG t/a's and some Goodyear's have three. His argument is Cooper;s are cheaper and you can get a warrantee for road hazard. I am willing to pay more and have less trouble in the middle of nowhere. You pays your money and makes your choice. Any tire, if larger, will reduce your gas mileage.

Diver - 4-17-2005 at 06:39 AM

Michelin ATX E-rated come with 4 ply sides and 6 ply treads.
They are quiet, get good mileage and last forever.
I've never had a flat (other than a nail) in two sets of these tires on my F250 4x4. Much of the mileage was with heavy camper off roading as well.

Spend the money ! They last longer and the value of not having to change a flat in the cold mud is invaluable !

bajaloco - 4-17-2005 at 07:39 AM

Bite the bullet and go for the BFG's. Buying tires is kinda like auto insurance...you get what you pay for when you really need it.

bajalou - 4-17-2005 at 08:02 AM

I've changes sizes from 235 85r16 on my F250 to 265 75 R 16 and it doesn't affect the speedometer at all. The larger tire with lower profile is the same height. Have checked this with my GPS to make sure of my speed. The extra width helps in sandy areas.

:biggrin:

surfer jim - 4-17-2005 at 08:35 AM

The problem with tires is that 95 % of driving is done on the highway and you must put up with noise and reduced gas mileage until you finally get the benefit they provide off-road.....used to have two sets...one street and the other BAJA....same size ...different tread pattern.....this works well but you have to change them back at the end of a trip....will look at your suggestions.....

Tires

Barry A. - 4-17-2005 at 08:41 AM

I agree with all these posts below David K. (sorry David) You usually get what you pay for. (first time I do not agree with David K.)

On my F-250 ext. cab w/heavy 1000lb Callen Camper I went from 235's by Dunlop to 285R-75X16's BFG's (much wider, and lower tire pressure, which ='s much more flotation in sand, and much more comfort on washboard/rocky roads) and they did not effect my gas mileage one iota with the HUGE 460 engine (stick shift)----10mpg no matter what I do. I love those BFG's!!-----quiet, and wear like iron. I carry 45 lbs in rear, 35 in front on the pavement,----- dropping them down to 30 rear and 20 front in heavy sand or in the rocks. (even lower if I am getting stuck).

Truck rides like a dream (Bilsteen front and KYA shocks in rear, with add-a-leafs fore and aft, but no "overloads").

David K - 4-17-2005 at 09:37 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Neal Johns
The problem with David K's choice is like most tires, Cooper's only have two ply sidewalls. BFG t/a's and some Goodyear's have three. His argument is Cooper;s are cheaper and you can get a warrantee for road hazard. I am willing to pay more and have less trouble in the middle of nowhere. You pays your money and makes your choice. Any tire, if larger, will reduce your gas mileage.

>>> Futura Dakota H/T mfg. by Cooper and sold at Pep Boys... simular tread style to All Terrain T/A'S but 1/3 to 1/2 the price.

Bedman introduced me to them, and I am very happy as they are quiet... and cheap (compared to BFG). I have 265/70-16" on my Tacoma. <<<

Never had a sidewall leak on 2 sets of the Dakotas or 2 sets of BFG Rugged Trails (also 2 ply sides) I had first. However, I am always seeing sidewall leaks on the All Terrain T/As.. it seems!

Neal, remember Amo Pescar's brand new All Terrains that got a sidewall leak (on a sandy road near Yubay)? We were plugging it at the camp we shared with you near San Gregorio.

Anyway, if money is not an issue, get the BFGs. However, if you want a recommendation for a cheap tire that is good in Baja and quiet on the highway, then go to Pep Boys and check out the Dakotas. :light:

[Edited on 4-18-2005 by David K]

OK, David----I bow to your experience----for now, anyway (-:

Barry A. - 4-17-2005 at 10:35 PM

BajaNomad - 4-17-2005 at 11:03 PM

Too many problems with BFGs All-Terrain TAs for me - especially with blown sidewalls - and no problems (except driver error issues) with Bridgestone Dueler A/T tires.

The number of sidewall plies isn't indicative of the strength of the sidewall. Depends on many factors, including the materials in the ply, the thickness of the ply, etc.

At Tire Rack, the fav is the Dueler A/T Revo:
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/surveyresults/surveydisplay.js...

--
Doug

Bruce R Leech - 4-18-2005 at 07:31 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by BajaNomad
Too many problems with BFGs All-Terrain TAs for me - especially with blown sidewalls - and no problems (except driver error issues) with Bridgestone Dueler A/T tires.

The number of sidewall plies isn't indicative of the strength of the sidewall. Depends on many factors, including the materials in the ply, the thickness of the ply, etc.

At Tire Rack, the fav is the Dueler A/T Revo:
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/surveyresults/surveydisplay.js...

--
Doug

the last set of BFGs All-Terrain TAs I bought ended with 3 blown sidewalls and one tread separation. 100 % highway use. and always proper presser.

Past Experience rules

Barry A. - 4-18-2005 at 07:35 AM

It is much clearer to me now why all these tire companies stay in business-------past experience dictates people's preferences.

Viva la difference!!!! (-:

(of course, I still think I am right)

Bruce R Leech - 4-18-2005 at 07:35 AM

When replacing worn-out tires, many people simply rely on the recommendation of the salesperson at the tire retailer when making their purchase decision. If you want to make a more informed choice, it's helpful to know something about the alphanumeric codes that are printed on the sidewalls of all commercial tires. This series of numbers and letters may seem baffling at first, but it's actually fairly simple to decode, and each element conveys some useful information. If you don't want to commit all of the codes to memory, simply ask your tire retailer for a brochure or leaflet that explains them. Retailers are required by law to make this information available.

Bruce R Leech - 4-18-2005 at 07:49 AM

Tire codes

Looking at the sidewall of a tire, you'll see a series of raised numbers and letters such as P 205/55 R 16 88V. Following is a summary of the information you can gain from those markings.

Type of vehicle. The letter at the beginning of the series (figure A) designates the type of vehicle for which the tire is intended to be used. The P in our example indicates that the tire is intended for a passenger vehicle. Other designations include "LT" for light truck and "T" for a temporary or spare tire.

Tire width. The first number in the series denotes the width of the tire, measured across the tread from sidewall to sidewall (figure B). The measurement is expressed in millimeters. In our example, the tire is 205 millimeters wide. The appropriate tire width relates to the width of the rim on which it will be mounted.

Aspect ratio. Following the slash mark, the second number in the series (figure C) denotes the ratio of the tire's sidewall measurement to its height. In our example the 55 means that this tire's height is 55 percent of its width. Tires with lower numbers are referred to as low-profile tires.

Tire type or construction. The second letter in the series is known as the construction code and indicates the type of tire. More specifically, it indicates the type of ply construction in the tire's casing. In our example R indicates that this is a radial tire. Most tires today are steel-belted radial tires, meaning that the cords that make up the belt are made from steel. It also means that the cords making up the belt run radially around the tire -- at an angle perpendicular to the tire's bead. (The bead is the steel hoop made into the inner perimeter of the tire that holds the tire securely on the wheel-rim.) Other possible designations include "B" for belted-bias tires, "D" for diagonal or bias-ply tires or "E" for elliptical. These latter designations are far less common in contemporary tires.

Wheel diameter. The next number is the diameter of the wheel's rim, measured in inches. In our example 16 means that the tire is made to fit on a wheel that is 16 inches wide.

Load index. Following the wheel diameter is a number that corresponds to a maximum load capacity (figure D) -- the amount of weight the tire can safely carry assuming that each tire is filled to maximum inflation capacity. Finding the weight associated with each number requires looking up the number in a load-index chart. In our example, a tire with a load index of 88 has a maximum load-carrying capacity of 1,235 pounds. Most passenger-vehicle tires fall within a load-index range between 75 and 105. That index-range corresponds to load capacities ranging from 853 to 2,039 pounds. The load index is often given in association with a speed rating.

Speed rating. Following the load index, some tires list a speed rating (figure E). This designation generally appears only on performance tires and indicates the maximum safe speed for which the tire may be used. The speed rating uses an alphabetic code with specific speeds associated with individual letters. Higher speeds are generally associated with letters toward the end of the alphabet. In our example, V indicates that the tire is certified for speeds up to 149 mph. Contrary to the assumption made by many consumers, the speed rating does not pertain to the tire's performance capabilities at high speeds. Rather, it is solely a measure of the tire's ability to withstand the heat generated by driving at high speeds. Tires with lower speed ratings will deteriorate faster as a result of heat if the vehicle on which they are used is frequently driven at high speeds. Not all tires are speed-rated, but if your car originally came with speed-rated tires, replacements should also be speed-rated. Following is a list of letters used in speed ratings and the speed in mph associated with each.

F = 50 mph
G = 56 mph
J = 62 mph
K = 68 mph
L = 75 mph
M = 81 mph
N = 87 mph
P = 93 mph
Q = 100 mph
R = 106 mph
S = 112 mph
T = 118 mph
U = 124 mph
H = 130 mph
V = 149 mph
Z = 149+ mph

The tire code may contain one final element that is simply the manufacturer's name or a descriptive designation for the tire.

Bruce R Leech - 4-18-2005 at 07:52 AM

Additional information
In addition to the large, raised figures that make up the tire code, there is additional relevant information that you may find printed on the tire's sidewall. These remaining indicators will probably be embossed on the tire in smaller-size print along its inner or outer perimeter (figure F).

The temperature rating is an indicator of how well the tire withstands heat buildup. "A" is the highest rating; "C" is the lowest.

The traction rating is an indicator of how well the tire is capable of stopping on wet pavement. "A" is the highest rating; "C" is the lowest.

The tread-wear rating gives a comparative rating for the useful life of the tire's tread. A tire with a tread-wear rating of 200, for example, could be expected to last twice as long as one with a rating of 100. Tread-wear grades typically range between 60 and 600 in 20-point increments. It is important to consider that this is a relative indicator, and the actual life of a tire's tread will be affected by quality of road surfaces, type of driving, correct tire inflation, proper wheel alignment and other variable factors.

The DOT code indicates that the tire complies with safety standards set out by the U.S. Department of Transportation and is approved for highway use. The DOT code contains specific information about where and when an individual tire was made.

David K - 4-18-2005 at 07:59 AM

Hmmmm... isn't this interesting. I am sure there has been an extensive discussion on BFGs before... I do remeber that Bajaboy was very happy with his Mud Terrain T/As that seem to last forever and never get flats... but some sacrifice to road noise. Cooper/Futura has their version of it, as well.

Just to be clear, I am not putting down BFGs except for their price and 3 ply bragging... as they are profiting greatly from being the noted best tire in Baja. I went to Discount Tires to buy them, and for my 16" tires they were $170 each. I went to Pep Boys and the Futura Dakotas were $65 each!!! The second set saw an increase to $80... but that is almost $100 per tire savings, or more than half the price cheaper than BFGs.

I have heard from others about the fact Doug brought up, that the side wall material is more important than the number of sidewall plys. If 2 plys of brand C are a total of 6 mm thick and 3 plys of brand B are only 4 mm thick then 2 plys are better than three in this example, right? I am not a tire expert, so don't know if that is actually the case... Maybe worth investigating.

I will admit to seeing that All Terrain TAs seem to last longer... I am just not sure if they last 3 times longer which would be necessary to be a better value than the cheaper American made Cooper/Futura Dakota tire. I replaced the first set of Dakotas between 25,000 and 30,000 miles. I do know the BFG 3 ply sidewall is not puncture proof, by a long shot.

surfer jim - 4-18-2005 at 08:32 AM

David...why did you replace at 30K miles?.....under warranty?....

My current tires came with the truck when new...38K miles...but several tires losing air...sidewall cracks...some cuts in the tread....and a patched sidewall puncture (in baja)....tread still good for the most part....

Have been thinking that with low mileage driving that the age of the tire is more important than the mileage...sort of like a motorhome....makes a case for cheaper tires that get replaced every 3-4 years.....

Bruce R Leech - 4-18-2005 at 08:39 AM

Look at the tread wear code It will go from a low of 50 to a high of 800. the bench mark i 100 a tire with this rating will last about 12 000 miles. the new tires I just bought for my explorer have a rating of 600 that figure means they will wear about 6 times as much as a 100 rated tire. the other important code is the temperature rating. for Baja don't buy any tire with Les than an A rating . temperature is the big silent enemy of tires when they git hot they disintegrate. B and C ratings are for people that only drive to the store and back.

triarts - 4-18-2005 at 09:05 AM

i followed tire racks recommendations and got the revos. have had them since august 2004 and put 12,000 miles on them with no problems. they are very quiet at highway speeds. i go to san quintin one a month but had only one ocassion to go off road, but they did better than my stock generals.

Skipjack Joe - 4-18-2005 at 09:23 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Bruce R Leech
Tire codes
Tire width. The first number in the series denotes the width of the tire, measured across the tread from sidewall to sidewall (figure B). The measurement is expressed in millimeters. In our example, the tire is 205 millimeters wide. The appropriate tire width relates to the width of the rim on which it will be mounted.

Bruce,

Does this mean that if I wanted to purchase a tire that is wider I might have to purchase a new wheel to go with it?

Bruce R Leech - 4-18-2005 at 09:30 AM

possibly yes. each tire has a specification for the min. and max rim width that it can be used on . If you git out of the specs the tire will not perform properly and can even be vary dangerous.

Neal Johns - 4-18-2005 at 12:13 PM

Here are the BFG T/A KO tire sizes including rim width range. I find that I can put a bigger tire on a rim that is one inch too narrow (by BFG recommendations) with no problems. YMMV

http://www.bfgoodrichtires.com/assets/pdf/all_terrain_ta_kd....

Bruce is right that temperature is the enemy. The tire heat build up is caused by the tire flexing and is also dependent upon the pavement temperature. Therefore, you can run lower pressure at slower speeds (same number of flexes but more time to disipate the heat) and over dirt/sand roads which are not as hot as pavement. The recommended tire pressure on the door jamb is for full load at high speed on pavement. The Max Pressure on the tire sidewall is the maximum pressure to which the tire can be safely inflated.

The advantages of lower pressure off-road are: Greater traction, less chassis vibration (bumpers and spare tires have fallen off on washboard roads), and less beer spilled (Mountain Dew in my case). :lol:

[Edited on 4-18-2005 by Neal Johns]

David K - 4-18-2005 at 04:58 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by surfer jim
David...why did you replace at 30K miles?.....under warranty?....

My current tires came with the truck when new...38K miles...but several tires losing air...sidewall cracks...some cuts in the tread....and a patched sidewall puncture (in baja)....tread still good for the most part....

Have been thinking that with low mileage driving that the age of the tire is more important than the mileage...sort of like a motorhome....makes a case for cheaper tires that get replaced every 3-4 years.....

YES Jim, the Pep Boys Futura Dakotas have a 50,000 mile pro rated warantee... about 25,000 + miles the thread was minimal for Baja (or here), so I replaced all four at HALF PRICE (about $40 each)!!! How can you beat that? The next set lasted about 30,000 and that is exactly how long the BFGs lasted.

Here is my tire history on my 2001 Tacoma:

0-30,000 mi. BFG Rugged Trails (came with Tacoma)

30,000-60,000 mi. 2nd set BFG Rugged Trails ($85 ea. at Discount Tires). I bought 2 before my 15 day trip the length of Baja and got many flats (only on the 2 I didn't replace)... got the other two upon my return.

Went in to Discount for All Terrains for set #3, but at $170 each, I declined, then asked about Rugged Trail TAs but their price jumped to $130 each! I went to Pep Boys...

60,000-85,000 mi. 1st set of Dakotas ($65 ea. new price)

85,000-115,000 2nd set of Dakotas (I paid $35 ea., pro rated, $70 new price)

115,000- present (126,000 mi.) 3rd set of Dakotas (I paid $40 ea. pro rated, $80 new price)

HotSchott - 4-18-2005 at 07:27 PM

BFG
BFG
BFG
A T

pappy - 4-18-2005 at 09:35 PM

well, i am on my second set of goodyear m/t's(d rated)285/75/16's.trips up and down state(ca.), into the mountains and various baja locations with zero problems, and great wear and milage. cooper has just released their new mud terrain tire caled the STT- (has a three ply sidewall )recieved a very good write up in four wheeler magazine.i use to be in the tire biz, and according to my friends who still are, this new cooper is going to be the hot ticket, and is about $30.00 less per tire than the goodyear m/t's.

Mexray - 4-18-2005 at 10:26 PM

Let's face it guys...most popular tire treads are a compromise in order for the tire to perform over a range of different roadbeds...and as such, you will get less performance/wear/mileage than a tire directly suited for a specific type usage...IE, highway tread for your I-5 stuff, and off-road tread for playing in the dirt, studs for the ice & snow, etc...

Surfer Jim is right, if you want the most of your tires, get two sets - one for your daily driver on the hard stuff going to work back home - another set for the back country on on the soft stuff. Most of us can't do this...so it's off to the rubber salesman to select the black donut we like the best, or the new one that's splashed inside 4x4 magazines this month.

Buy a more aggressive tread, and put up increased wear when commuting to work on the pot-holed freeways, or more highway-friendly tread and put up with slipping and sliding on the trails when the going gets rough!

If you do lots of driving, sometimes a cheaper tread designed tire may be less money in the long run as David K has mentioned. If you drive less, a more costly tread/tire might be a better choice. There are definitely quality differences in tire materials and how they are built - for the most part, the better tires just plain cost more!

I've used cheapies and not-so-cheapies...today I like the BFG ATKO's, but with only about 10K miles, it's too soon to tell how long they'll last. I like them in the outback - and they are OK on the hard stuff, unless it's raining hard when they will hydroplane something bad, until you slow down! Radial grooved tires are better in a hydroplane situation, but that's another compromise...as I said at the beginning...

rob - 4-19-2005 at 10:09 AM

Ok - it's all been said, but here's 2 cents more.

Went through 3 Cooper Discovery Mud tires on one Baja trip - all with torn sidewalls, one definitely my fault, the others . . . never again.

One of my workers bought 4 almost new BFG All Terrains, and they lasted less than a year on our less-than-freeway-quality Pacific coast roads.

I have used BFG mudders ever since my Cooper disaster 5 years ago, and nary a sidewall problem (had punctures natch).

comitan - 4-19-2005 at 10:24 AM

More, here in La Paz if you look at the 4wd vehicles the mexicans are driving the majority are usuing BFG T/A thats what I bought 1 trip to states and off road every chance I get. They look like they were put on yesterday.

bufeo - 4-19-2005 at 11:51 AM

BFG Rugged Trails came stock on our truck (F250 HD SD 4X4). They will come off and BFG ATs will go on after a few more miles.

I pay more attention to shocks. Lousy shocks, which include the vast majority of OE stuff, will reduce the longevity of a tire as quickly as loosing track of tire pressure. The so-called Heavy Duty F250 came equipped with a name-brand shock with "Baja Racing History", but they were absolutely worthless on the dirt roads we drive. I've replaced them with Bilstein 7100 series reservoir shocks. Now that's a shock absorber.

As to tire brand loyalty, I don't have it. I've had good performance from BFGs--the odd nail through the sidewall, notwithstanding--and from Goodyear and Michelin. We're talking lots of miles here, both dirt/gravel miles and pavement. I remember in the '60's and '70's we were touting Armstrong "Rhinos" or any number of the dozen or so models Dick Cepek offered.

Then too, we could discuss the advantages/disadvantages of steel-belted (better traction on the flat and longer life) or the bias-ply (stronger sidewalls), but the trend has been to the radial tires because most drivers judge a tire by the number of miles traveled on them in the end.

To me, the total number of miles I travel on a set of tires is of less importance than the performance of the tire while traveling those miles. I remember the Yokohama Mud Diggers I had. For a great traction tire the "Dog Bone" was exceptionally quiet, but for some reason I didn't buy them again after selling our Jeep they were on. :?:

Advice from James Crow and Spencer Murray twenty years ago is still worth reviewing:

No matter how much you know about tires or how much you spend on them, it's the way you use them that makes the real difference....you be good to your tires and they'll usually be good to you.

Arthur - 4-19-2005 at 12:24 PM

A couple of people early on in this string were assuming that larger-diameter tires get worse mileage. I've never been able to see why this should be true. Sure, they will probably throw your odometer off slightly, but it seems to me what they're bound to do is affect your gear ratio. Won't larger-diameter tires raise the ratio just a bit, so you'd get slightly better mileage on the freeway and slightly less of a low when you're going slow?

bajalou - 4-19-2005 at 01:01 PM

Larger tire diameter means less turns to the mile but more effort to make those turns.

:biggrin:

comitan - 4-19-2005 at 01:23 PM

Therefore if you have the horsepower you should get better fuel economy.

Arthur - 4-19-2005 at 06:52 PM

Yeah, but for the purposes of discussion we've got to keep something constant. So I agree with this, but (with all due respect) I think the last two replies above that don't reflect the way things actually work. I could be wrong, of course, but that's the way I see it at this point.

bajalou - 4-19-2005 at 07:46 PM

Using more horespower to turn the wheel uses more gas.

On a level road, you might get better mileage, but pulling up hills etc, it takes more horsepower to turn the wheels.

:biggrin:

Not sure what the best overall brand is.....

Hook - 4-26-2005 at 12:56 PM

.....as I have been happy with Duelers on rice burners and Michelins and ONE set of BFGs on trucks by the American mfgrs.

But I can tell you that I am suspect of the q/c at BFG, due to all the tread separation and sidewall blowouts I have seen over the years. In some cases, the tires never saw any off-road conditions.

I am about 30k into a set of Michelin LTX MS 10 ply tires on my F350. It has had a 2400# Lance on it for about 1/3 of that 30k and has also done a bit of towing. Looks like I will get another 10k on them. Very impressive, IMO, for applications this heavy. I am usually between 70-80 psi. They were 160.00 each at Costco during the very regular Michelin rebate program they run.

As you can imagine, the ride is not the greatest on full leafs. I am currently running Rancho 9000s that I run on the softest settings in front and the mid setting (3) in the back. Yes, even with the Lance on the back, setting 5 is too stiff. Would welcome any recommendations about a shock combo that might improve my ride. Had Bilsteins on my old RV and loved them. What's the reasoning on the KYBs in back? I loved my KYBs on my rice burners!

What, no reminiscing about Gates Commandos?

[Edited on 4-26-2005 by Hook]

radial Baja

eetdrt88 - 4-26-2005 at 03:56 PM

i bought my truck used almost 1 yr. ago,it came with tires that say WIDETRACK Radial Baja on the sidewall...i dont know who makes these but they kick ass,i've driven about 20,000 miles,thats including about 4 baja trips(2 trips with over a couple hundred miles of offroad driving)and they still have quite a bit of tread and no blow-outs yet,i'm wondering which mnfr. makes these???

Dick Cepek

David K - 4-26-2005 at 05:18 PM

In the 1970's (when I started driving), Dick Cepek is where you went to get 'Baja Proven' tires! This was before he had his own name brand on the side walls (with DC on the side tread repeating)... He promoted Armstrong tires... First was the Armstrong 'Hi Way' floatation tire... smooth, non aggresive tire with simple grooves... like airplane landing tires. They worked great in the sand... I had them on my Myers Manx rear tires (my dad had a set for his Wagoneer).

Next tire Dick really pushed was the Armstrong TRU-TRAC for big rigs and Armstrong NORSEMANs for light rigs. I put Tru Tracks on my Cherokee Chief when the Goodyears it came with needed replacing... Tru Tracs were awesome.

Dick Cepek had a great catalog full of Baja Proven products, including camping gear, guidebooks, and naturally tires, lights, and shocks... They started in South Gate, and expanded... the store for San Diego County was in El Cajon.

Sadly, after Dick suddonly died (in England on a business trip), his son Tom let things go or ? The retail stores closed up... Off Road Warehouse is the closest thing down here to what Dick Cepek's was like. I still see Dick Cepek brand tires in some catalogs...

Off road & Baja cartoonist Dave Deal (lives nearby) was the creator of the cover art for the original Dick Cepek catalog... It was an orange Chevy Blazer, with 'Big Deal' Dave behind the wheel. Anyone remember the Cepek catalogs?

[Edited on 4-27-2005 by David K]

Baja Angel - 4-26-2005 at 07:08 PM

I remember the Cepek catalogs! I used to run the Tru Tracs on my CJ5...
that was a long time ago. I used to get mine at the old Price Club in Santee. :saint:

TMW - 4-26-2005 at 07:31 PM

A couple of things that help to prevent flats off the paved road. Don't let your tread depth get low. I replace my tires at about 1/2 depth. While it won't keep a nail out it does help against sharp rocks. When dricing off-road especially in rocks use 4 wheel drive to prevent wheel spin. Quite often rear wheel spin in sharp rocks will result in a flat. For side wall care know where your placing your wheels. Ride over the rock instead of against it. For a smoother ride off road and better wheel articulation on IFS disconnect your anti-sway bar. Mark Naugle did an article on this and I think it's still on the Off Road web site at www.offroad.com. I did this on my Toyota for the Pole Line Road run and noticed an improvement right away down the wash board road at Laguna Salada.

As to tire brands I've had good luck with Goodyear, Remington and BFG. BFG is my choice but dollars do play a part. Bad luck with Dunlap. Bruce listed all the codes etc. My 04 GMC Z71 came with Bridgestone P265/75R16. I usually run them between Baja trips because they are not as noisey and I want to save my LT285'75R16 BFG AT KOs for Baja.

The problem with too narrow a rim is the tread will be rounded and wear mostly in the center. Lowering the pressure helps but does not solve the problem, get a wider rim.

One of the biggest problems I have had is getting a good wheel alignment. Most shops put or leave too much positve camber in. I started doing my own camber adjustments a few years ago. If your front tires are wearing mostly on the outside the camber needs to be reduced. It should be 0 degrees to maybe 1 or 2 degrees positive at normal ride height. Negative camber will cause the tires to squeel on turns.

Bajaddict - 4-26-2005 at 07:54 PM

I put 32 x 11.5 BFG All Terrain T/A KO's on my stock Tacoma at 50,000.... the odometers showing 120K right now, it looks like I'll need to fork out for another set in a year's time! I will put nothing else on my truck.

These tires have made many a "fast" beer run down the arrow-strewn Gonzaga/San Felipe road - and arrived each time with sidewalls intact. The abscence of freeway hum is nice too, as this is unfortunately where these meats have stacked the most miles.

The only semi-failure that I have suffered was a nail - picked up in Long Beach.... the plug is still holding after 2 years.

[Edited on 4-27-2005 by Bajaddict]

surfer jim - 4-27-2005 at 08:59 AM

Still didn't get any tires yet...too much other stuff always comes around....did look at the Dakota ....$73 for the "P"....and $103 for the "LT"....tread looks like the BFG a/t....

Where is the best price for BFG A/T?.....

[Edited on 4-27-2005 by surfer jim]

Bajaddict.....

Hook - 4-27-2005 at 09:05 AM

....I wouldn't consider simply owning one set, a ringing endorsement that would cause me to own nothing else. Thirty-five years of tire observations and conversations have led me to conclude that it is just a matter of time before you are dealt a lemon BFG. Others on this board have observed it too, apparently. But when they work, they perform well.

70,000 on a light duty truck is not unusual, but it is very good. Your alignment must be spot on as well your inflation.

Anyone remember the old Cepek awnings? They were the best at the time; very resistant to strong winds. I prefer the swap meet type now.

TMW - 4-27-2005 at 11:25 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by surfer jim
Still didn't get any tires yet...too much other stuff always comes around....did look at the Dakota ....$73 for the "P"....and $103 for the "LT"....tread looks like the BFG a/t....

Where is the best price for BFG A/T?.....

[Edited on 4-27-2005 by surfer jim]

Jim in Bakersfield usually Carrols or Big Brand have the best price. An Lt 265/75R16 sells for $169. However with any store it is the total cost which includes balancing, road hazzard etc. Discount Tire usually has as good a price as any.

TW

Neal Johns - 4-27-2005 at 05:45 PM

Like Bajaddict, I have 32" BFG T/A KO tires on my 120k mile Tacoma.
$104 each at Walmart six months ago. They are special order and took 20 minutes for them to do the paperwork, delivery in a week or so - but I'm retarded, oops, retired, and can afford the wait. :lol:

One set Hook?

Bajaddict - 4-27-2005 at 06:03 PM

Actually... this is the third rig that I've ran these tires on - my old CJ-7 and '63 F100 (never saw dirt, but the meats sure looked sweet on her) sported BFG's many moons ago. It seems, from reading this thread, that others haven't had the same luck. I'll just keep knockin' on wood and going with what has worked for me! :biggrin:

I'll have to agree that my alignment is spot on, I've only flattened one stop sign! And when airing back up I follow a simple formula: one beer chugged per tire - no more, no less.

[Edited on 4-28-2005 by Bajaddict]

pappy - 4-27-2005 at 07:02 PM

bajaaddict- i like your air-up formula.seems to be just about right-time wise!:moon:

Dick Cepek catalogue---Armstrong tires

Barry A. - 4-27-2005 at 07:19 PM

David-----I sure do remember the Dick Cepek catalogues and all the good stuff, much of which I still own.

My last set of Armstrong Norsemen 235's was about 7 years ago just before Armstrong was acquired by Parelli (I think) and the Norsemen became a thing of the past. I loved the Norsemen, and never had any problems with them on my '89 Isuzu Trooper. They did not wear as well as BFG's though-----only got about 30K miles on them. They now (2 of them) are on one of my trailers, and the other two on the front of our Baja Bug.

Cepek catalogs...

Mexray - 4-27-2005 at 11:04 PM

Boy, I used to love to get the Cepek catalog in the mail...I couldn't resist buying some little 'goodie' when ever a copy found it's way to my door! He collected stuff for his catalog that nobody else carried...

...remember those brackets he had made to mount military 'jeep' fuel cans to the side of your vehicle - yeah, I bought a few! The odd camping items were great, and cheap to buy! I just couldn't resist - and was like a kid a Christmas time waiting for the carton to arrive!

I've still got one of his catalogs around here in the den somewhere...and it's still fun to look through the pages that bring back memories from a time gone forever...and yes, those drawings were unique!

Neal Johns - 4-28-2005 at 12:00 AM

Cepek? What's a Cepek? Must be something you old guys know about. :biggrin:

My first set of off road tires from Dick was Tru-Tracs and my second set was non-radial BFG All Terrains (remember those?).

The Tru-Tracs gave you a better ride on wet asphalt than a surfboard would. Exciting! Unless you wanted to stop.

[Edited on 4-28-2005 by Neal Johns]

Cheap tires!

El Camote - 4-30-2005 at 11:34 AM

I wonder if you old tire(d) dogs can give this young pup some advice

The rear baloneys on my Baja bug have bitten the dust. Not so much from wear but cracks from drying out in the desert. Other than keeping them out of the direct sun, anything you can do to tires to keep them from drying out while stored? A little Nivea perhaps?

Also, I've been shopping for the replacements and refuse to spend a lot of dough for a vehicle that's so lightweight, gets driven, maybe, 2K miles a year, and never exceeds 60 mph and then only for short durations. On the low side, I checked out the Pep Boys Futura Scrambler for under $50 ea. Anyone have experience off-road with them? All the other LT and off-road tires started at around $80. How about the Pirelli Scorpion AT?

The size is 225/75/15. I saw some mildly used (Wilderness HT?) that were 225/70/15, how much lower profile would they be than the 75s? Or how much height would I lose?

Muchas llanta preguntas, ha? :spingrin:

[Edited on 4-30-2005 by El Camote]

Tires drying out....try this

John M - 4-30-2005 at 03:20 PM

Spray the sidewalls with good 'ol WD-40. The added advantage is that on dirt roads the WD-40 seeps on down to the tread and no dust is kicked up with WD-40 saturated tread. Why, we've followed Neal for miles and miles on dirt roads and have yet to see any dust off his tires. And,...to borrow a line from Mr. Johns, "trust me!"

Bruce R Leech - 4-30-2005 at 03:48 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by John M
Spray the sidewalls with good 'ol WD-40. The added advantage is that on dirt roads the WD-40 seeps on down to the tread and no dust is kicked up with WD-40 saturated tread. Why, we've followed Neal for miles and miles on dirt roads and have yet to see any dust off his tires. And,...to borrow a line from Mr. Johns, "trust me!"

that is a good one John. :lol:

Arthur - 4-30-2005 at 04:04 PM

Hmmm. You're kidding, right? I can see putting something like Armor All on a tire, but a penetrating oil? Oil is death on rubber.

Neal Johns - 4-30-2005 at 05:09 PM

That rotten John M is kidding. Any oil is indeed death on rubber.
He is just mad because I won't follow him anywhere 'cause he is Directionally Challenged; and not too bright - runs Ultra Marathons.

Poco Camote, you would lose 7% of your ride height (70/75).

comitan - 4-30-2005 at 05:32 PM

How do you know that WD-40 is oil.

Neal Johns - 4-30-2005 at 09:20 PM

comitan
Because I am a husband - and husbands know everythingggg Ouch! Don't hit so hard, honey.

From their website: "What does WD-40 contain?
While the ingredients in WD-40 are secret, we can tell you what WD-40 does NOT contain. WD-40 does not contain silicone, kerosene, water, wax, graphite, chlorofluorocarbons (CFCs), or any known cancer-causing agents."

From their label: "Contains: Petroleum distillates." i.e., oil.

We tested WD-40 (a light oil +?) against similar products at the Naval Missile Systems Engineering Station and WD-40 lost out to other products for protection in a salt atmosphere environment. The winner? LPS-1 and LPS-2 http://www.lpslabs.com/

TMW - 4-30-2005 at 09:53 PM

The water or juice from a barrel cactus will keep the tires fresh and like new for years. It's a secret I learned many years ago from a Mexican friend.

surfer jim - 4-30-2005 at 10:49 PM

Maybe I can just keep my old tires and juice them up a little

......heard it also makes the tread grow....come on TW maybe an urban legend (baja style)..... :lol:

El Camote - 4-30-2005 at 11:29 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by TW
The water or juice from a barrel cactus will keep the tires fresh and like new for years. It's a secret I learned many years ago from a Mexican friend.

Just as long as I don't have to drive over the cactus to apply the juice, it may be worth a try.

Barrel Cactus Juice??

Bedman - 5-1-2005 at 01:02 AM

Camote, try this.....

Find a dead black cat.
Then, swing it around your head while saying TIRES, TIRES, TIRES, TIRES.
Then Spit on each tire 4 times. (or was that Urinate??) I'd do them both, just to make sure it works!

For this to work, you muct have documented proof of completion.
Have the Ms. take digital photographs and post them here.

Bedman

Neal Johns - 5-1-2005 at 06:35 AM

I'm with Bedman, but remember; Documentation is everything! Trust Me.

I used the juice on Hope, my inflatable doll, forgot to document things, and she whished right out the window. :!:

comitan - 5-1-2005 at 06:48 AM

Ok I already knew it doesn't last, but it smells good.

The ONLY product......

Hook - 5-3-2005 at 09:55 AM

.....recommended by most tire manufacturers as well as inflatable boat mfgrs is 303 Protectant. Most do NOT recommend Armour All as it has been shown to actually dry out rubber.

You can buy this stuff by the gallon at Camping World and other places. About 50.00/gallon. It is basically a UV protectant for rubber. On tires, I dont wipe it off as the directions say. I just let it dry and it gives tires the same clean look as Armour All.

If I lived in the desert, I'd probably use it about 2-3 times a month on ANYTHING made of rubber, plastic, canvas, etc.

Barry A. - 5-3-2005 at 02:31 PM

I agree with HOOK.

I have been using 303 for about 10 years and it works for me. I put it on my tire cover on the back of my 1989 Trooper about every 3 months and the tire cover, tho a little ragged, is still very usable. It is the original tire cover and it has been in the sun 100% of the time since late 1988.

I also use it on my wind shield wipers, and they seem to last much longer than without it. Good stuff!!!!