BajaNomad

JULY 2012 BAJA TRIP TO THE TIP and beyond! ALL 15 DAYS POSTED!

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David K - 8-16-2012 at 03:58 PM


1967


1969


1982 Note the villa in the background.


1987

Now, here are Google Earth Satellite views of San Pedrito from close to high up, taken in 2009... starting at the general's villa:









[Edited on 11-13-2015 by David K]

AmoPescar - 8-16-2012 at 05:40 PM

EXCELLENT JOB DAVID...

Really wonderful reports and pictures. As usual...great details, maps, descriptions and commentary!!

Thanks for taking the time to do the reports and for sharing your trip with us!!

Happy that you and Elizabeth had such a fun trip!



Miguelamo :yes: YES :yes: YES

David K - 8-16-2012 at 05:48 PM

Thank you Michael! I really wish to see you back south with your big happy face on!



San Gregorio Trail, April, 2001

[Edited on 8-17-2012 by David K]

capt. mike - 8-17-2012 at 10:39 AM

great history on san pedrito. i don't think it is in existance now? the todos santos airport now is not that close to the water. it is now being developed by the owner of another baja info site who is working with DGAC in mex city and the ejido.

Jack Swords - 8-17-2012 at 03:34 PM

Just north of San Pedrito is a little bay called Puerto Algodones, visible in your photos before the big beach off Todos Santos. When we lived in Todos Santos I rode my Honda 90 trail motorcycle up over the hill down to the remains of the pier for diving. The pier was for offloading sugar cane (I know, algodones = cotton, Mexico!). The casa at San Pedrito was vacant in the '80s and we camped there many times. We were told that passion fruit was raised to the east (there are concrete waterways). The freshwater lagoon behind the beach was increasing in size killing the palms. We netted some fish from this lagoon could not identify them...strange ones. There was a fresh water spring on the southside of the beach near the rock ruins with "agua" written on the cliff face. Now, I heard, parking is risky due to breakins. Swimming from the panga haulout on Todos Santos' beach (Punta Lobos) around to San Pedrito is full of life (lobos) and in season you can hear the whales singing underwater. Nice blowhole there too.

Thanks David for the great trip photos. You outdid yourself! You should write a book...

David K - 8-17-2012 at 10:56 PM

Thanks Jack!

[Edited on 8-18-2012 by David K]

David K - 8-18-2012 at 09:56 PM

It has been a real pleasure bringing this trip report to you... Being there is better, so go!!! If you can't, then I hope you get your fix here, on Baja Nomad...

If there are any details I left out or unanswered questions, just ask!
Here or u2u or email to: info*AT*vivabaja.com (make sure Baja is in the subject line).

David K - 8-27-2012 at 11:28 AM

Got an email from Barry, and I believe he did finally see the photos. They are hosted on Photobucket, not Nomad... in order to post more than one at a time. If anyone cannot view the photos, please let me know!

Marc - 9-2-2012 at 05:28 PM

Thanks again DK.

David K - 9-2-2012 at 06:46 PM

My pleasure Marc...

I welcome any questions on the sites, the trip, the truck, whatever!

koolaukid - 9-17-2012 at 06:02 PM

THAT was a killer trip report.

Spent the last couple of days digesting the report, trying to follow your narrative on a map and looking into some of the interesting "extras" that were also mentioned like the Rancho Naranja between Todos Santos and San Jose Del Cabo. As a pilot, thought it interesting and quirky (and fascinating) to have included the airport plates, a lot like the modern ones. Loved your photos and the dialog really took us along for the ride. Learned a lot about Baja from your report.

You may recognize my username, my daughter and I drove the length of Baja (our first visit) last Christmas and I posted a trip report to this forum. Well to make a long story short I loved it so much a buddy and I are going to ship our bikes from Hawaii and ride dual sport motorcycles down Baja this February. So I'd like to ask a few questions.

What kind of printed map do you carry?
What maps are best for the GPS? I have a Garmin.
How can I find the route of the old main road prior to MX-1? And finally,
Do you have GPS tracks for this trip? I hope you don't mind my asking these questions but just following your trip report with the anecdotal mentions of local history, animals and sites to visit was educational.

Anyway great report, I probably spent more time reading it and researching things you mentioned than it took you to write the thing, lol.
Scott

David K - 9-17-2012 at 06:48 PM

Aloha Scott and Mahalo for you nice words!

It was a great trip indeed... and not only did the Nomads get a break from me posting here for two weeks, but I got to give them this big report! :tumble:

The runway photos are from Arnold Senterfitt's Airports of Baja California (several editions) and San Pedrito seems to have been a special place for Arnold to stop and measure the runway! I have flown over some of Baja once in a single engine (Alfonsina's to Calexico), but never got my license... I enjoy the aerial photos for a 'bird's eye view' of Baja! Sadly, most of the great runways that Arnold had in his books have been ditched by the military to reduce drug pick up points.

I don't really use a map much on the road, as I already am very familiar with much of the peninsula, however, for reference or discovery, I use the Baja California Almanac (topo map book) available from http://DiscoverBaja.com or http://BajaBooksAndMaps.com or even http://BajaAlmanac.com plus I have the handy folding road map from the Auto Club (available maybe from the first two sources I gave or the AAA office to members).

I don't have a GPS track, but I did proved a few maps where I thought the details were needed. ... Once you get a map, take out a highlighter and follow us:

Crossed south at Tecate, used the toll road (2-D) all the way to Hwy. 5, then south to Coco's Corner (with an overnight at Shell Island, Km. 26 south of San Felipe... that is 3 miles south of Laguna Percebu on the map).

At Coco's, we turned EAST on the Baja 1000 course then south to Calamajue Canyon to Hwy. 1 at El Crucero. Hwy. 1 all the way to La Paz (with a few nights at Bahia Concepcion along the way).

We did a day trip to Los Barriles after stops at El Triunfo, San Antonio, the Real de Santa Ana. Back to La Paz via Punta Pescadero.

We did a day trip Todos Santos, San Pedrito, Cabo, Santiago, Bat Cave at Las Cuevitas, and back to La Paz. This was using Hwy. 19 and Hwy. 1.

Coming north, we used Hwy. 1 and stayed a night at Bahia Concepcion, then on north past Santa Rosalia and just west of San Ignacio taking the paved road to Punta Abreojos then the salt flat to La Bocana then the dirt to Bahia Asuncion for a couple nights at Juan y Shari's Bed & Breakfast (the best!). Went fossil hunting one day... found some sharks teeth from prehistoric times... many miles from today's ocean shore.

From Asuncion we took the paved road to Vizcaino at Hwy. 1, then a few miles north we turned on the dirt road signed for Guillermo Prieto (now a ghost town), then north from there, across the state border and visit to Mission Santa Gertrudis (1752). Then we went back west towards El Arco and up to Pozo Aleman ghost town, then went east with a side trip to see the huge cave art site... then on east to Punta San Francisquito Resort (too windy and run down looking), so north to Bahia San Rafael for the night, camping on the beach.

The next day we continued north to Bahia de los Angeles to have lunch with Nomads Mary Ann, Paulina and Dern, then on out to Hwy. 1 and north to Laguna Chapala, then onto the dirt for Coco's Corner, Gonzaga, pavement just a few miles north and to Shell Island for the last night.

The way home was Hwy. 5 to the toll road to Tecate and cross into the US at Tecate. EASY!:light:

Here is a great question, I didn't cover above:

David K - 9-17-2012 at 07:17 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by koolaukid

How can I find the route of the old main road prior to MX-1?
Scott


I have posted an entire series on finding the old main Baja road from El Rosario to San Ignacio... PART 1 is HERE: http://forums.bajanomad.com/viewthread.php?tid=48770

The old main road, just beyond Bahia Concepcion, also went south via San Jose Comondu or La Purisima and NOT through Loreto... Although one could drive up to San Javier from Loreto and out to Santo Domingo to meet the road from Comondu.

koolaukid - 9-18-2012 at 09:41 AM

Wow David really appreciate the time and effort you made to post such a complete reply. The old road is interesting and I'll try to follow it on a map, I hope for this to provide some alternative routing and exploring when we go.

Another questions, how does the old road relate to the original El Camino Real that linked the missions?

David K - 9-18-2012 at 10:03 AM

Now you really know how to keep me on a computer, don't you!

Basically, from Tijuana to El Rosario, Hwy. 1 is very close to the Camino Real.

From El Rosario to San Fernando, it is south of Hwy. 1/ and the old road.

From San Fernando to Agua Dulce it is on or just south of the old road & Hwy. 1.

Then it goes north of Hwy. 1 and out to Santa Maria then down towards Gonzaga where Hwy. 5 is on or near the Camino Real to near Coco's Corner. South of Coco's it goes to Calamajue through a mountain canyon and south in Calamajue Canyon then out and along the foot of the Sierra La Asamblea to Yubay... along the L.A. Bay road route (but north of it) until it crosses it as it heads south to San Borja.

From San Borja it goes south, in the mountains to come out near Rancho La Union, crosses the El Aco/ San Francisquito road to get to Santa Gertrudis, then back in the mountains agian to San Ignacio. There are actual multiple Camino Reals that were used depending on the time of year and visitas that were needing services, along the way.

Look at the links, and for the most part there is no connection between the Camino Real and the old road or Hwy. 1 south of San Agustin/Agua Dulce. The Camino Real was for foot or mule traffic, and autos needed easier routes.

I have posted the El Camino Real maps and satellite images as well...

I linked them all on my Baja Missions pages at VivaBaja.com to make finding them on Nomad easy at the end of Part 3, Visitas:

http://vivabaja.com/missions2/page13.html

There you will see the following, but hotlinked:

EL CAMINO REAL (satellite images and maps)

ECR-1 Santa Maria to San Borja

ECR-2a San Borja to Santa Gertrudis (Sierra route)

ECR-2b San Borja to Santa Gertrudis (Golfo route)

ECR-3a Santa Gertrudis to San Ignacio (Pacifico route)

ECR-3b Santa Gertrudis to San Ignacio (Sierra route)

ECR-4 San Ignacio to Guadalupe

ECR-5 Guadalupe to Comondu

ECR-6 Comondu to Loreto

HARRY CROSBY's 1977 ECR Notes and Maps

HOWARD GULICK's 1954 ECR Maps

koolaukid - 9-19-2012 at 01:26 PM

David,
On our earlier trip with my daughter you had recommended visiting Bahia de los Angeles. When we got there it was a cold, windblown day, there was no one around the the place looked deserted. We had lunch and blew out of town but I always felt bad because you provided so much help for our first trip.

This new information you've provided will keep me busy for a couple of days, you've been a great source of info and write a helluva trip report. Thanks again.

David K - 9-19-2012 at 02:18 PM

Cold, windblown? Sounds like winter! When did you go?

I have many many side-trips based out of Bahia de los Angeles just for such times... as it is very hot in the summer and fall, for many. Driving in an AC car makes summer visits tolerable, but when it is cold or windy is an ideal time to see the many sites that are not involved with being on the beach or on the bay. When you can't go fishing... go exploring! SEE http://vivabaja.com/tours to design a self guided tour to the many many points of interest centered at various Baja destinations.

Hope you go in a warmer time or just get lucky and miss any wind or rain.

We were at Bahia de los Angeles on New Years when it rained one day... it was beautiful the next, so be patient and remember you are in Mexico and THE word is mañana which does not mean 'tomorrow', but instead means 'not today'!

SF through BOLA or Los Arcos

preston - 9-21-2012 at 02:07 PM

David:

Another epic series of posts and full of useful information. When you are ready to publish your book, let me know.

Quick question: I'm planning a trip to San Francisquito in early October and was wondering about the best approach (BOLA or Los Arcos). I have a 2WD Tacoma with the stock wheels. Distance through BOLA would be less ... but is it more risky given my vehicle?

An opinion would be appreciated.

Thanks

David K - 9-21-2012 at 02:15 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by preston
David:

Another epic series of posts and full of useful information. When you are ready to publish your book, let me know.

Quick question: I'm planning a trip to San Francisquito in early October and was wondering about the best approach (BOLA or Los Arcos). I have a 2WD Tacoma with the stock wheels. Distance through BOLA would be less ... but is it more risky given my vehicle?

An opinion would be appreciated.

Thanks


Book is being published in mass, next week: http://oldmissions.com

If you mean a book about my Baja trips and explorations... well, maybe someday, after this mission book pays for itself!

Just about 2 months ago we went to San Francisquito and used both roads (most of)... The drive in from the south via Mission Santa Gertrudis was fine, and easy 2WD driving. We didn't go through El Arco, but instead through Guillermo Prieto from Hwy. 1 just a few miles north of Vizcaino.

The road to Bahia de los Angeles from San Francisquito is a bit rougher, less used... but, as you say, shorter from the U.S. and you can stop at Pancho's Bahia San Rafael. 2WD as well, but there is the one big grade along the way.

Lot's of photos in my July trip report (link below)!

San Francisquito was real windy and not very attractive, sadly. We camped at San Rafael beach instead... a couple miles north of Pancho's.

preston - 9-22-2012 at 12:37 PM

Thanks for the information on the 2 options to SF. I think we will do the same as you, but in reverse.

Just purchased your book .... hope to get it before I leave on my trip on October 4th!

David K - 9-22-2012 at 03:10 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by preston
Thanks for the information on the 2 options to SF. I think we will do the same as you, but in reverse.

Just purchased your book .... hope to get it before I leave on my trip on October 4th!


Thank you for that... Oct. 4 is cutting it real close if we are mailing it to you. If you don't have it before you leave, email me and I will send you the info. sheets on any missions you might be near, if you like.

Bat Cave

Mika - 10-10-2012 at 06:23 AM

Hi David,

Thank you for a great report. I am getting ready for my trip to BCS now so this is very helpful. I didn't know about the bat Cave near Santiago, and I would love to get to there. If you could give me a detailed direction, I appreciate it very much. We will be likely to have just a front wheel drive rental car, is it possible to get to it?

David K - 10-10-2012 at 08:36 AM

Sure... Take the paved turnoff for La Ribera and almost immediately turn onto the dirt road that heads for the Hwy. 1 bridge over the big arroyo... the road goes under the bridge and up the arroyo... the bat cave is ahead on your left... not far. I need to run, but if you like, I can do a Google Earth image of it later... :biggrin:

Mika - 10-10-2012 at 07:05 PM

Great! Thank you!
I just used Google map (street map) and I can clearly see the unpaved turn off at the highway bridge. Google Earth will be helpful too.

I also did some more web search and found various pictures with water in front of the cave. A bit worried as we won't have a truck or 4WD. . . .

David K - 10-10-2012 at 09:26 PM

It was bone dry in July before the rains. The track was well traveled and done in 2WD.

David K - 10-11-2012 at 04:38 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by Mika
Great! Thank you!
I just used Google map (street map) and I can clearly see the unpaved turn off at the highway bridge. Google Earth will be helpful too.

I also did some more web search and found various pictures with water in front of the cave. A bit worried as we won't have a truck or 4WD. . . .


I have a short article coming up at BajaBound.com on the Bat Cave, and from Google Earth here is the GPS and the directions:

To find the bat cave, turn off Highway One onto the paved side road for La Ribera and Cabo Pulmo. Almost immediately, turn off the La Ribera road onto a dirt road going into the wide arroyo, and drive under the Highway One bridge that crosses the arroyo. It is about ½ mile to the cave, over on the left side of the arroyo. GPS at the cave is N23º31.80, W109º40.65 (WGS 84). The village nearby is called Las Cuevas, for obvious reasons.

David K - 10-11-2012 at 04:55 PM

First View Looking South from the road junction with the paved La Ribera road next to the Hwy. 1 bridge...






Next view Looking NORTH from the Bat Cave...


David K - 10-14-2012 at 12:11 PM

Hope that helps!

watizname - 10-14-2012 at 04:59 PM

Loved it. Thanks. Nice to live it vicariously when your'e stuck at home for a while.:cool:

David K - 11-12-2012 at 06:35 PM

I hope this and other Nomad trip reports cause a strong enough draw that it overcomes the fear caused by media bias against Mexico. There is just so much great thing to see and do, and wonderful people in Baja when you go to where people are. You could spend days in Baja without seeing another person, as well... just what ever you want!

BornFisher - 12-23-2012 at 10:51 PM

Hey David-- Thanks for the report. Think you will like this video of the painted cave you visited on day 13. Check it out!---
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ngkx4MLxOR4

David K - 12-23-2012 at 11:47 PM

Good to see more people not fearing travel in Mexico... the best thing for our Baja friends.

Bob H - 12-24-2012 at 01:13 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by David K
I hope this and other Nomad trip reports cause a strong enough draw that it overcomes the fear caused by media bias against Mexico. There is just so much great thing to see and do, and wonderful people in Baja when you go to where people are. You could spend days in Baja without seeing another person, as well... just what ever you want!


This is soooo true... go South and enjoy!!

cjesme - 12-28-2012 at 08:17 AM

David, Beautiful Trip Report. I have been talking to Michael younghusband about doing a horse and wagon trip from La Mision, Ensenada to Loreto and then to Tecate, Ranch La Puerta and then back to La Mision. Mike is going to map it out and it will be for the awareness of animal care. I am going to try and get sponsors for signs on the wagon. We have a lot of planning to do but i think it is feasible. What do you think?

David K - 12-28-2012 at 10:36 AM

Quote:
Originally posted by cjesme
David, Beautiful Trip Report. I have been talking to Michael younghusband about doing a horse and wagon trip from La Mision, Ensenada to Loreto and then to Tecate, Ranch La Puerta and then back to La Mision. Mike is going to map it out and it will be for the awareness of animal care. I am going to try and get sponsors for signs on the wagon. We have a lot of planning to do but i think it is feasible. What do you think?


If it is in your heart to do, then do it! Nothing ventured, nothing gained... and all that! Are you going to be using the highways or stick to the back country, old or ranch roads? Obviously more visibility on the highway, but will passers-by even know what they are zooming past or just get angry at the delay on the curves? Best wishes!!!

Kgryfon - 4-7-2013 at 07:52 PM

Just wanted to add my thanks fro a wonderful trip report! I plan on sending naysayers to this report to give an alternate perspective on Baja. Who could view this and not want to go?

David K - 4-8-2013 at 03:25 PM

That's the idea... seeing is believing... and going to Baja is not a life and death decision anymore than going to Disneyland (maybe safer)! Glad you enjoyed the report Kgryfon...

David K - 10-17-2014 at 06:49 PM

So the word I hear from non-Nomads in Los Cabos and East Cape is to come on down, they need our business and the infrastructure is back in place after the Hurricanes of 2014.

I am looking forward to a return to Baja Sur!

güéribo - 10-18-2014 at 08:56 AM

Thanks for the detailed trip report, David. I especially loved the historic mining photos and the "insider view" of the painted cave near Gertrudis. And I must add . . . the ever-smiling Elizabeth looks like the nicest, most positive person on earth!

In addition to the structures and buildings, thanks for including all the landscape and road photos, which really give a sense of place. Can't wait until you take another trip and post another report! Quite a pleasure to arm-chair along with you guys until I can get back to Baja myself.

David K - 7-3-2015 at 10:57 AM

Just getting some ideas for this year's trip back to Baja Sur, our first chance to head that far south since this 2012 awesome trip.

Not going south for the 4th weekend so we can have more energy for the big trip later this month.

Comondú and La Purísima are in my ideas book!

Ken Cooke - 7-3-2015 at 08:53 PM

That sounds like a fun trip you're planning. Have fun!

WestyWanderer - 7-30-2015 at 09:31 AM

David, I am in the market for a new, more detailed Baja map, my AAA map is good but I would like better. Do you have any recommendations? I have done a little research online and it looks like the Baja Almanac is popular but they are out of stock. Any other recommendations?

BTW, thank you thank you thank you for your epic report, I have been reading it over the past few days and loving every minute of it, its giving me new ideas for baja travel!

David K - 7-30-2015 at 03:26 PM

Hi Westy! This 2012 trip to La Paz and Cabo was really fantastic. Our hosts in La Paz ('BajaTripper' Steve & Zully) just made it one of the best vacations my wife and I ever had. They really should be in the tourist business!

Please enjoy my new 2015 trip report, I am writing this week, 3 parts of the trip posted as of now (we got back from 9 days in Baja, just 3 days ago): http://forums.bajanomad.com/viewthread.php?tid=79730

The Baja California Almanac is the best all purpose road map, and with the corrections you can pencil in on the latitude degree number errors, it is pretty darn good.

It is available at Baja Bound Mexican Insurance Services in San Diego, as well as other locations... perhaps Discover Baja Travel Club (also in San Diego area) office as well?

Next might be the National Geographic Baja Adventure Maps?
The AAA map is still the most informative if just main paved and dirt roads are needed... Pencil in the new paving that is changing Baja forever.



[Edited on 3-27-2022 by David K]

WestyWanderer - 7-31-2015 at 08:31 PM

David,

Thanks for the link, I look forward to reading your latest adventure! Ok, I will go ahead and grab the Baja Almanac and use that in addition to my AAA map. Really, we are looking to start adventuring off the pavement because we have done the trip to Cabo from Southern California 3 times now and while always amazing, its time to start seeing things on the road less traveled!

Thank you for your patience in sharing your love and knowledge of Baja, its so enjoyable to read as my fiance and I both have a deep passion and respect for the peninsula.

David K - 7-31-2015 at 09:59 PM

The is fantastic... you have the Baja Bug, indeed!
The maps get you into an area, but so much isn't shown on them.
When you come to a fork in the road, take it!
All dirt roads in Baja go to someplace interesting!

David K - 5-29-2016 at 09:10 AM

This July 2012 trip to Cabo and back remains one of the finest Baja vacations Elizabeth and I have had and when JZ posted yesterday asking about La Paz, that got me to review it.

In July 2015, we only went as far south as Bahía Concepción...
We (including our bedding and clothes) got soaked from a cloud burst our first day there with its hurricane force, sideways rain for maybe 30 minutes!
Then being accused of having marijuana, at the San Ignacio military checkpoint, and to end up camping at Nuevo Mazatlan because my air pump broke (which prevented camping on Shell Island), where I got bit up (stung-up?) by fire ants.
Yep, 2012 was totally awesome and 2015 could have been a lot better! LOL

TMW - 5-29-2016 at 09:29 AM

You better be careful around fire ants. The other day a woman in Texas died from being bit several times by fire ants. she had an allergic reaction.

David K - 5-29-2016 at 02:11 PM

Quote: Originally posted by TMW  
You better be careful around fire ants. The other day a woman in Texas died from being bit several times by fire ants. she had an allergic reaction.


Thanks, Tom, no allergy here... Just annoying itching/pain for several days. Some relief by applying tea tree oil, which I keep in my Tacoma.

The fire ants are tiny and when the camp owner drove up just after dark I must have been standing on their nest next to one of the salt cedar trees while chatting with him (no shoes on). They got my feet and ankles really good. Never had problems with ants before at Nuevo Mazatlan (or anywhere else in Baja). I did get attacked by Africanized bees on Shell Island a few years ago (as they migrated north) and got stung a couple times! Those things are aggressive and chase you! LOL Tea tree oil to the rescue again then.

David K - 7-4-2020 at 09:05 AM

I would have to say this 2012 trip to Cabo and back, with all the side trips included, is probably the best Baja trip that Elizabeth and I did together. Hard to believe it was 8 years ago and so much has changed!

A huge thank you to Baja Tripper, Blanca, Shari, Paulina, and Mary Ann Humfreville, for showing us a great time.

I want to hope there will be more Baja camping trips in our future, but maybe not... Getting old sucks!

David K - 3-27-2022 at 09:27 AM

This great 2012 trip is now a trip photo album page: https://vivabaja.com/p712/
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