BajaNomad

My first "real" Baja vacation: First impressions

Bagheera - 12-1-2003 at 07:19 PM

I just returned from my first trip south of Ensanada. I spent 4 days driving down Highway 1 from San Diego to Loreto, and 2 days driving back. I've been back in San Diego for about 6 hours, and these are my initial impressions.

I didn't enjoy the trip as much as I thought I would, and I think I made a few mistakes along the way. I hope those who have more experience than I can offer me some good feedback.

Ok, a few random impressions:

--Shoulda brought a truck. I drove down in my '95 Cavalier. I don't own anything larger (I have an MR2, but that wouldn't last 5 minutes on Hwy. 1). The Cav did Ok on the main highway, but almost every single road off the highway was dirt, gravel, rock, or just a mess. There were a lot of places I wanted to see but couldn't, because I would have had to park my car on the side of Hwy. 1 and hike 20 miles to get there.

--Driving at night is actually pretty safe. Granted, you have to stay really alert (no rumble strips to wake you up before you wipe out), but it's not the death wish some people make it out to be. Drive about 10 mph slower than you do during the day, keep your eyes open, and you'll be fine.

--Sleeping by the side of the road is safe and fun. On my first night, I pulled over somewhere past Catavi?a (that's Spanish for "the middle of frickin' nowhere") and laid out under the stars. Christ, I had forgotten there were so many stars in the sky. No one stopped my car; no one even slowed down. I stayed safe and warm, I saw a beautiful night show, and I saved 50 bucks.

--San Ign?cio is the Garden of Eden. Wow. My favorite stop on the whole trip. The mission is beautiful. The people are beautiful. The date "forest" is beautiful. The canal is very beautiful. The contrast between the desert and the valley is just, well, beautiful.

--San Ign?cio Springs is the best B&B in Baja. The owners are 2 Canadians who retired to the valley last year. Their rooms are inexpensive and very comfortable. I give them the highest recommendation. http://www.ignaciosprings.com

--The guy who runs Eco Mundo is a jerk. Eco Mundo is a beachfront palapa stand/kayak rental in Bahia Concepcion, between Muleg? and Loreto. Maybe it was because everybody else in Baja, from the waiters to the Army officers, were so courteous and friendly that this fellow came off as arrogant and rude. The accomodations were cheap and somewhat comfortable, but the owner needs to learn a few things about customer service. Have you ever stopped at a gas station late at night, and dealt with the half-asleep clerk who's ticked off becuase he has to do his job instead of reading a magazine? Then you've met the owner of Eco Mundo.

--Muelg? is tourist hell. Santa Rosalia to the north and Loreto to the south had their share of gringos, but all of Muleg? felt like Tijuana's Revolucion. I could tell that the locals were getting fed up. They were a little more testy, and a lot less patient with my poor Spanish, than the residents in the other 2 towns.

--A little wind can ruin a long trip. A strong wind blew onshore from Cortez, raising chop and whitecaps all up and down the shore. I came to snorkel the reefs, but the only snorkeling I did was in sandy Bahia Concepcion. Que malo.

Well, I didn't have a great time, but I didn't have a bad time, either. I think going to save up my pennies for an old 4 Runner, thne go back again in a few months. Any recommendations on what I should do differently?

Bajaboy - 12-1-2003 at 07:53 PM

Sounds to me like a great trip to me. I agree a truck or suv will expand your possibilities. But, there are so many things to explore along the way.

For example, just post something like "what is your favorite taco stand in San Quintin" on Nomad and wait for the miriad of answers. Or, "what was the funniest experience you've encountered at a military checkpoint?" Get my drift....

Glad you had an "okay" trip. I leave in 19 days for a 2 week trip.

Zac

Neal Johns - 12-1-2003 at 07:54 PM

What to do next time? You had it right, just drive off on any interesting side road. Buy a Baja Almanac (really just many pages of maps with all the small side roads) and you are all set. Make sure you stock it with tools, fanbelts, water, etc. and um, Mountain Dew. :bounce:

With a 4Runner, you probably should camp off the highway to be a little safer.

David K - 12-1-2003 at 08:01 PM

Thanks for your trip report!

I do not recommend driving at night (not for safety reasons so much), but so you don't miss some fantastic scenery! The world's most awesome desert garden, for one!

Good to point out the poor treatment you got at Eco-mundo and the great treatment at Ignacio Springs. There is always some bad with the good, it seems.

I am surprised by your Mulege impression... That is new and too bad. Like San Ignacio, Mulege is a rare oasis surrounded by desert.

Sleeping under the stars is awesome, but can get chilly this time of year. Rancho Santa Ynez (just past Catavina) has cheap bunk rooms with showers, and great food.

Thanks again... The 4Runner is a good call... Every dirt road in Baja goes 'somewhere'!

Driving at Night

capn.sharky - 12-1-2003 at 08:54 PM

I do not recommend it either. It is not safe as you are traveling through open range. Cows and Burros are hard to see at night. I can personally tell you that I have seen the results of hitting these animals and it is not a pretty sight. However, those that want to drive at night should do so with extreme caution. It is a free world. I would never presume to tell someone what to do with their lives. I will even help build a little cross and put candles by the road for the less fortunate night drivers.

Great Introductory Trip

Mike Humfreville - 12-1-2003 at 11:58 PM

Sounds like you'll be back to Baja with improved transportation and I wish that for you. Just your wanting to take that "road less traveled" says a lot.

While it's not for everyone, few in fact, Baja has something to offer that exists no where else. While some of us worry that Baja will soon be overcome with folks from the north and elsewhere, I often ponder just how many folks would truly enjoy the central desert and often consider how many people can be adequately supported there because of natural limitations, e.g., water and weather conditions.

But my main thought is that Baja isn?t for too many of us by its natural barrenness and stark landscapes. I?ve never seen statistics on the number of first time Baja visitors versus the percentage of returnees, but I could make a wild guess that most don?t come back.

And then you have to consider the places the masses visit. It obviously isn?t the locations you chose for your first. The majority go to Mexico?s most expensive turf, Cabo. They don?t venture into the outback like you did; they fly in, prepaid and roundtrip. While I very much enjoy Constitution, La Paz, Los Barriles and the cape, Todos Santos, all as towns having their own unique characters, I, like many others, prefer the outback.

There is nothing like driving 30 miles down a worn and weathered dirt track, two tirelines in the dust, to arrive at a seaside fishing village with rabbits and children scampering to see who?s coming, to smell the surf and seaweed and the searing fish on an open grill, to lay back and listen to the sea pounding the dunes and toss a bag down before the fire goes out only to see that it won?t die until it?s replaced by the million stars in the sky and you can discover the heart of Baja and your own heart can restore itself from a land of too much somewhere up north.

This last October my wife and I spent time in several places along the east coast between San Felipe, Gonzaga Bay and Bahia de Los Angeles. We hooked up with friends at every stop, friends we had met on the Internet over the past several years. At our final campsite, of almost two weeks, we were 4 miles south of the village at Bahia de Los Angeles. The camp was filled with friends, new and old and of all ages and backgrounds and it was a wonderful time. We were alone and yet together when we wanted to be. We shared experiences, advice, specific academics, i.e., geology, physics, and we found once again that we ALL had values. We shared meals when we wanted, raced back and forth to town and just had a great time. And we captured a few e-mail addresses to add to the growing number of the ?select few? who love the central desert of Baja.

So, I guess that is my suggestion for you, for your next trip. Since you apparently are from the San Diego area, take your new-to-you truck or SUV south to Tecate. Cross there and drive Mexico 3 south to Ensenada (paved). Then continue on hwy 3 east to San Felipe. In San Felipe fill up your tank and head south to Puertecitos (leaving the pavement about here and onto dirt). Continue south along the dirt coast to Gonzaga Bay and enjoy a much needed shower at Alfonsinas hotel and camp a mile or so south unless you decide to spend $45 for a room. Enjoy the pure and unclutterd view of the small bay and lagoon there. Spend a night with others at the Restaurant, so remote and unique, one of the most calming shores in the peninsula.

Then continue south to Coco?s Corner and just beyond to Mexico 1. Have a meal along the way at the local restaurants when you can find them and absorb the local flavor. From Laguna Chapala take the pavement south and when you approach the turnoff to Bahia de Los Angeles take it. Visit the village, make friends, spend a single night in a small hotel ($20 - $60/night) and hang out. People will find you. Spend at least a calming week there. The surf is milder than the west coast and you throw your bag down now in a different environment. The small ripples of a calm night let pass the sounds of seals, dolphins and whales working the coastline, of birds working the bait late into the night, of the small campfires of winter with idle human chatter.

I?m done lecturing now, not qualified to begin with but we do love Baja. I know by reading your post you?ll be back and encourage it. There are so few of us that endure well the harshness.




[Edited on 12-2-2003 by Mike Humfreville]

San Felipe, Puertocitos

Travelbuff - 12-2-2003 at 09:08 AM

The route suggested by Mike sounds interesting. Would we have any problems driving it with our 4x4 Ford 350 with a 9'6" camper on top?

[Edited on 12-2-2003 by Travelbuff]

Anonymous - 12-2-2003 at 09:21 AM

Thanks for the report Bagheera. It's always interesting to read a first time visitor's Baja experience.

Mike---I agree with you post. The best part of Baja is off the main highways. ... "El Mochilero"

Skeet/Loreto - 12-2-2003 at 09:48 AM

erra: Great Trport from a first timer. the Land and its People.What you observed and experienced is just Baja in the Raw. A 4w Truck with a small camper would be the best bet and go over to the Pacific Side South of G. Negro.Just do again what you did on this trip and stay away from the Tourists Traps. good luck Skeet/Loreto

Baja And The Mainland Are Two Different Animales

DavidE - 12-2-2003 at 12:58 PM

One of the things that strikes me most is that no two trips are the same. It may well be that your internal "defence structure" was working overtime and this can certainly color a perspective sometimes to the degree of flavoring an entire trip.

As for driving at night. Reliable federal Mexican statistics indicate that over ninety percent of highway deaths occur between the hours of dusk and dawn on Mex 1. What happens when a flat tire occurs and you cannot pull off onto the shoulder? Points to ponder...

Also a point to consider is to sit down and list (objectively) those specific points about Baja you wish were there, and weren't. Baja is not the mainland, and some folks desperately wish to camp beneath swaying coconut palms and gorge on tropical local fruit. This would be the mainland from Mazatlan southward. But the mainland isn't Baja either -- it isn't a desert (south of Mazatlan), but it is green as can be with more beach palapas than you can shake a stick at. The beauty of it all is that you can find -somewhere- in Mexico to address one's needs no matter what!

Catavi?a is also noted for some shack restaurants that serve up some spectacular "cordoniz" (quail) dishes. A mile or so down the side road to Sta Inez is a campground for just a few dollars a night. I absolutely do not recommend that you or anyone else spend the night sleeping alongside Mex 1 no matter where it might be. Off of the road, out of sight is far safer. I've counted more than a dozen robberies alongside Mex 1 after nighfall in the last half dozen years. Baja loses a certain amount of charm when tempered with the image of a drunk midnight macho pounding on your door with a pistola in hand. When you consider that four Tijuana "tourist cops" had the stupidity to rob and rape just recently any argument about camping alongside a highway just doesn't hold water. Be safe, be un-paranoid, but don't be a statistic either.

Travelbuff

Mike Humfreville - 12-2-2003 at 03:34 PM

No problem with your 350 4x4 and camper. Most of the road is heavy washboard so it'll be slow going between Puertecitos and return to the highway at Laguna Chapala, but it's mostly occasionally graded and wide. Good luck.

Mike????????

Debra - 12-3-2003 at 01:32 PM

Interesting post from the guy that left "pieces of POT" all over that road :spingrin:

I don't think I'd want to take my camper on that route (unless of course I traveled about 2mph and had 4 days to do it!, DON'T SAY IT MIKE!) It IS BEAUTIFUL THOUGH!

First Trip

hyme7of9 - 12-3-2003 at 05:07 PM

I agree with David,Cap Sharky and David E about driving at night.This is the voice of experence talking from guys in the know.Also I wouldn't sleep off the side of the road.It's not 1973 anymore.Those days are gone.However, I would park in front of a hotel and crash for the night.Safety in numbers.Adios.Hyme

Neal Cox - 12-3-2003 at 05:21 PM

Seems like not too long ago on another board we had many posts about driving at night, some of which involved shooting lights out and being totally unconcerned about the safety of one's family and loved ones. I for one, seldom drive at night, but back to the subject.

I also think that most first time visitors to Baja are not prepared for what they find, as some of you have mentioned. I know I was not, but am one of those who loved it even though it was different than I anticipated.

I don't mean for this to sound accusatory, but sometimes the reception you get is related to the attitude and manner that you project. I have visited Eco Mundo and found the fellow who ran the place very accomodating and friendly. Mulege is still on of my favorite towns to visit (along with most other towns in Baja), but I often wonder what it would be to live in Baja as a native and have to deal with the onslaught of people from the USA and other areas. I have run into every extreme from the typical "tourist from hell" to the true "baja traveler". It would be interesting to step into the shoes of a native.

My suggestion would be to take some more trips, try to take longer if possible. Getting off the main road is good, but if your vehicle does not allow it, there are many great places accessible by regular vehicle. I would not tie too much cash up in a vehicle for Baja. I have been some amazing places in a VW bug and even more in a VW Van. Just a good old pick up will get you lots of places, 4X4 is good. Keep on traveling.

Bagheera - 12-6-2003 at 04:48 PM

Regarding driving at night: I guess I was just impatient. I mean, it got pitch black and freezing cold at 5pm, and it didn't brighten up for another 12 hours. Still, I won't drive at night again (at least, not much ;)).

Regarding sleeping at night: In the central desert area, I'd rather not stay at a hotel. I'd really prefer to sleep by the side of the road, either in my car or out in my coffin bag. What if I were to drive off onto the rancho roads, so I'm out of sight from highway 1 and not within sight of the ranchos. Safe?

Regarding Eco Mundo: The owner was rude to me and to several other people there. I wouldn't have mentioned his attitude if it was just a little poor. It was really bad. An example: I had paid for a rented kayak, but he hadn't yet gotten my paddle or vest. While we're talking about the bay, a friend of his walked in. He dropped my conversation and started talking with his friend. He didn't get the paddle, or mention the bay. He just ignored his *paid* customer and chatted with his friend. He totally ignored me. I just left to change into my wetsuit. When I came back, he was gone-just a paddle and a life vest sitting on the counter. :mad:

Regarding Mulege: I live in San Diego, so I know what it's like when tourists take over your town. But I can hardly imagine what it's like when tourists invade a twon 1/100th the size of mine. It must be hell. The locals in Mulege certainly seemed impatient with the Amis around them.

Two contrasting examples: I got breakfast one morning somewhere south of San Ignacio in a roadside diner that looked like a converted house. There was no menu; the waitress just told me what she had. The waitress spoke no English, and my Spanish is very basic, so it took us a full five minutes to figure out what I wanted. Yet she was patient and courteous-a little frustrated, but she understood that I was trying my best to communicate on her terms. Despite my toddler Spanish ("I want breakfast" "Yes, napkins here, please"), the waitress was happy to help.

Two days later, I was in Mulege at the restaraunt (whose name I forget) at the end of Rio Mulege. When I was finished, I asked the waiter, "Cuantos cuesta mi lunche?" I was expecting a number in response, but he said something else so fast I couldn't understand it. I said, "Como?" He replied in English, "**It will be just a moment, sir. I'm very sorry I don't speak English!" in the tone that said he's lost all patience with me.

The difference between the first and second example? In the first case, I was the only gringo around. In the second, the waiter was surrounded by tourists who spoke about as much Spanish as the Taco Bell dog. I sympathized with the poor guy.

Beware of Instant Friends - 12-6-2003 at 11:19 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by Bagheera

--Driving at night is actually pretty safe. Granted, you have to stay really alert (no rumble strips to wake you up before you wipe out), but it's not the death wish some people make it out to be. Drive about 10 mph slower than you do during the day, keep your eyes open, and you'll be fine.


Wtach out! Some people here will hang you for driving at night. Then again, the same people rarely drive in baja at all.
Quote:

--Sleeping by the side of the road is safe and fun.
On my first night, I pulled over somewhere past Catavi?a (that's Spanish for "the middle of frickin' nowhere") and laid out under the stars. Christ, I had forgotten there were so many stars in the sky. No one stopped my car; no one even slowed down. I stayed safe and warm, I saw a beautiful night show, and I saved 50 bucks.


Hint:

Be safe. go to Rancho Sant Ynes and save "$40".
Quote:

--San Ign?cio is the Garden of Eden. Wow. My favorite stop on the whole trip. The mission is beautiful. The people are beautiful. The date "forest" is beautiful. The canal is very beautiful. The contrast between the desert and the valley is just, well, beautiful.


Welcome to the real Baja. Just watch out for the "Steeker Mongers" during race seascon.
Quote:

--The guy who runs Eco Mundo is a jerk.


Not surpising. The entire "eco movement" is a royal scam.
Quote:

Eco Mundo is a beachfront palapa stand/kayak rental in Bahia Concepcion, between Muleg? and Loreto. Maybe it was because everybody else in Baja, from the waiters to the Army officers, were so courteous and friendly that this fellow came off as arrogant and rude. The accomodations were cheap and somewhat comfortable, but the owner needs to learn a few things about customer service. Have you ever stopped at a gas station late at night, and dealt with the half-asleep clerk who's ticked off becuase he has to do his job instead of reading a magazine? Then you've met the owner of Eco Mundo.


Welcome to Baja!

Quote:

--Muelg? is tourist hell. Santa Rosalia to the north and Loreto to the south had their share of gringos, but all of Muleg? felt like Tijuana's Revolucion.


OKAY: Your are a know nothing purist with ZERO experience. Mulege simply "ROCKS". The Best of Baja has been there and continues to flourish, to this day. I'll give 1 day of my life for an hour at the bar in the evening at Serinidad any day.
Quote:

--A little wind can ruin a long trip. A strong wind blew onshore from Cortez, raising chop and whitecaps all up and down the shore. I came to snorkel the reefs, but the only snorkeling I did was in sandy Bahia Concepcion. Que malo.


WAAAAH!

Quote:

Well, I didn't have a great time, but I didn't have a bad time, either. I think going to save up my pennies for an old 4 Runner, thne go back again in a few months. Any recommendations on what I should do differently?


Baja isn't a canned vacation. Get used to it and you might grow as a person to really like it.

pangamadness - 12-8-2003 at 08:14 PM

If you did not like it you don't need to try it again. Too many people now as you learned through Eco Tours. If you do go again just an FYI. The people who tell you you should not drive at night are the people who drove at night enough to know. They speek from experience!. If you are lucky you too will aquire this wisdom.

We had such a nice rest......

Debra - 12-8-2003 at 09:13 PM

Tom.....you really seem to be a nice guy most of the time, you seem to be hurting about something.....I mean this sincerely, if you need someone to talk too, U2M...I'm told I'm a good listener. Debra

Bajabus - 12-9-2003 at 08:29 AM

BOIF, why not give up the rest of your life and spend it all at a bar, it's where you seem to really belong and fit in.
you may want to see a doctor about having the corn cob removed from your A*S*S*

JESSE - 12-9-2003 at 03:04 PM

Sounds like a good first Baja experience, if you get a better car the next time, your second trip will get a lot better.

yakfish - 12-10-2003 at 02:33 AM

wife and I drove our toyota echo all over East Cape last summer 10 days with two Kayaks on top also drove out to Mag Bay there are alot of dirt roads that dont need 4x4s to drive on most of the locals dont have 4x4s and they do just fine. we stay away from touristy areas for the most part. we Drive to Loreto every year stay south of town at Juncilito we have driven down in many differant cars not 4x4s and been to some wonderful places Guerrero Negro area and Jesus Maria on the pacific side wow!,In Spring time. Also Bay Of L.A. the most beautiful view of the Sea of Cortez is on the road just before you come down into Bay of L.A. IMO. :bounce:

San Felipe to Mexico Hwy1

ferdic1 - 12-14-2003 at 06:24 PM

My wife and I are in our early 60s and own a new Ford Expedition FX4 (underbody shields, 4x4), and plan on taking the road from San Felipe to Mex 1 Dec. 23 on our way to Loreto. We fell in love with Baja last Christmas, when we drove out 37ft motorhome, towing a Saturn, from Tecate through Ensanada and on to Mulege. The road was too narrow for our comfort (the motorhome is a widebody), so we thought we'd take the Expedition this time to scout out Loreto and points south.
Rather than take exactly the same route again, we thought the San Felipe way sounded attractive -- until we read about that 42-mile stretch south of Puertecitos that AAA says will take 4 hours! That's 10 mph average. Is the road that terrible? What did the summer monsoons do to it? Is there much traffic on that section?
If we were to break down, what are the chances of getting any help? Should we take a CB, and if so, what channel might there be English-speakers on (we don't speak Spanish)?
We have done some extreme off-roading in the Arizona desert, so aren't easily intimidated by rocks and sand, but we'd be totally out of our element down there and alone.
Any advice?

David K - 12-14-2003 at 09:17 PM

The road south of Puertecitos was just graded and in great shape... I was on it over Thanksgiving. The nearly 50 miles to Gonzaga took 90 minutes in my truck... small motorhomes can drive it and we saw one near Huerfanito.

The BAD part is the pot holed pavement for 25 miles just north of Puertecitos... worse than a dirt road.

Gonzaga on to Laguna Chapala on Hwy. 1 is 36 miles and should be fine. Stop and visit with one legged Coco and sign his guest book, halfway between Gonzaga and Chapala. Coco sells beer and soda and tells stories.

You won't be all alone... busy time of year for Baja travelers. C.B. is probably not very helpful unless you are traveling with others.

At Gonzaga there are restaurants at Papa Fernandez' (see photo of John Wayne and Papa), and Alfonsina's 3 miles south (awesome garlic shrimp and fish dinners, plus a bar and motel). At the turnoff for Alfonsina's is a closed Pemex and across the street is Rancho Grande (sells gas usually) with tire repair service and a store/satellite phone.

[Edited on 12-15-2003 by David K]

Driving at Night

academicanarchist - 12-14-2003 at 09:42 PM

I would not drive at night anywhere in Mexico, including Baja. On a quick trip with several friends in 1976, the driver at the time almost ran into a group of burros crossing on the road in the middle of the Central Desert, and nearly ended the trip.

I have traveled across Mexico many times, including on buses that run at night. I have friends who have been killed driving on Mexican roads. Besides, you miss the scenery as David K. points out.

Sounds like it was a fun first trip. However, I would not be surprised by the reactions of some Mexicans who have to deal with the occasional "ugly American."

bufeo - 12-14-2003 at 10:41 PM

ferdic1,
We came back last Friday (12th) from Punta Bufeo. The winds of a week ago have blown a bit of the sand away in spots around Huerfanito south, so the washboard is coming back, but it's nothing compared to a couple of months ago.

CBs are used but very few persons monitor them. If you feel like you want to have some kind of communication along, purchase a hand-held marine VHF. Anywhere from San Felipe down through Gonzaga you should be able to hail someone. We monitor Ch 8 at Pta Bufeo; Gonzaga uses 16 mostly; 9 and 18 can be useful also. I know the folks in the El Dorado area at San Felipe use 72. In any case you'll be able to make contact if you have an emergency.

We've not had any question about permits for the radio from the military or the police. In fact, a year ago we ran a search-and-rescue from our house and had all kinds of marine-band radios in use (even a NAVCOM) and the police and navy thanked us. Their attitude seems to be that "Para la emergencia, cualquier cosa trabaja. "

We'll be in residence by the 27th, but it sounds like you'll precede us a few days.

?Buen viaje!

Anonymous - 12-15-2003 at 12:18 PM

Bufeo, what type radio would you suggest for someone who would be hitching and hiking along Baja? What would be best---a handheld marine VHS or a handheld C.B. radio? I was thinking that if I carried a handheld C.B, then I could introduce myself through the radio and possibly get a ride. I know, sounds crazy, eh?..."El Mochilero"

bufeo - 12-15-2003 at 01:35 PM

from Anon-
Quote:

...what type radio would you suggest for someone who would be hitching and hiking along Baja?

I'm not sure I have a good answer for that. Hitch-hiking is so different from running along in your own vehicle and communication needs would vary.

Travelers moving along in a group of several vehicles may prefer CBs and you will see numerous caravans along Hwy 1 with CB antennas poking out of vehicle roofs. In that case, you will be better off with a CB.

On the other hand, residents (local and us part-timers) nearly all use marine-band units both permanently mounted in vehicles and homes and portable hand units. Emergency communication, that which I was implying above, in most cases is more effective with marine-band.

Handhelf marine-band VHF radios can run from $80 to $200 (maybe more, maybe less), whereas a very good CB can be purchased for less than $50.

For hitch-hiking, you'll have to think about carrying extra batteries. If you are "introducing" yourself, i.e. transmitting, you'll use up your power fast. In a car, a 12V power cord mitigates the need for a lot of extra dry-cells.

Both types of radios require permits in Baja, but in our nearly 40 years of driving down there we have never been asked to show our permits. One soldier expressed much "admiration" for my NAVCOM and a small Mag-Lite? but he did not press the issue, and I made no attempt to appease his hankering

Sorry, this is such a long non-answer. Maybe someone else will want to wade in with a recommendation, but I guess in your situation I would suggest a cheap CB and a bunch of dry cells.

hitching and hiking......

bigaton - 12-15-2003 at 02:17 PM

If you would like to introduce yourself, your best bet would be to start from a PEMEX or one of the check points where tourists are stopped. I got a ride from the military check point just north of SAN IGNACIO ... earlier this year, all the way to TIJUANA, on an 18 wheeler. It was a 12 hour ride.

Marine radios

ferdic1 - 12-15-2003 at 03:45 PM

Bufeo,
Thanks for the info on handheld marine radios. What sort of range would we need to have in a unit? Power? Is 5W good?

bufeo - 12-15-2003 at 05:04 PM

ferdic1,

I think that all hand-held marine-band VHFs are now equipped with 5w/1w capability. There may me some that are 5w only, but I'm not aware of them. Usually if battery supply is an issue it's a good idea to leave your radio on the 1w since that uses much less power to transmit. Disadvantage is that you severely reduce your distance.

For all intents and purposes, range even on the max 5w setting is only a couple of miles--or, in the case of having altitude on your side, i.e. being up on a mountain, line of sight is the factor. Often, using our hand-held on 5w we talk to our neighbors at Pta Bufeo from the southernmost crest of the "Sisters" near Huerfanito. That's a distance of approximately 15 air miles. On the flip side, we have been blocked by terrain when only ? mile apart.

As an example, last year we stopped to help a fellow about 10 miles north of Pta Bufeo. He had blown both of his mc tires. I tried to hail anyone from our beach with a hand-held and standing roadside. No response. I walked about 50 meters over to a little rise that had a better view of the campo and Bingo! In a few minutes two mc nobby tires were on the way.

Some folks install fixed-mount VHFs in their vehicles, and I think that I'll probably do that also. That way you have the benefit of 25w/1w and with a good high-gain antenna you get much added distance. With our fixed-mount in our house, we have had conversations with folks at Puertecitos, about 32 air miles. Then, the mountains between us and Papa Fernandez prevents us from directly communicating with friends there. We rely on friends at Alfonsina's to relay msgs for us. Since it's all much like a party line, it makes having eventual contact easier.

Good antennas make a real difference on the fixed-mount radios. I don't recommend trying to cut corners by getting a good radio and then plugging in the cheapest antenna.

Of course with hand-held units you are limited to using the antenna supplied, or in the case of a couple of the more expensive models you can get an adaptor that allows you to utilize a roof-mounted vehicle antenna.

BTW, I'm no expert in any of this stuff. That's probably evident, but all of my information comes from using the equipment.

Handheld marine radio

ferdic1 - 12-15-2003 at 07:02 PM

Bufeo,
Many thanks for the info. I think we'll purchase the 5W unit and try it out. Maybe we'll contact you that way as we pass through circa Dec 23-24 on our way to Loreto. It would be good to get together and swap some stories and experiences in Baja!

Road to Loreto

ferdic1 - 12-15-2003 at 07:46 PM

David Kay:
Will you be in the San Felipe-Puertecito-Loreto environs Dec 23-Jan 1? We'd like to swap stories/experiences.

bufeo - 12-15-2003 at 08:22 PM

ferdic1,
Check your U2U msg box.

El Mochilero, A quick note....

Bedman - 12-15-2003 at 10:14 PM

If your going to try and hail autos via Marine or CB radio you'll have to factor in all the channels that are avaialable, you could call all day and if theyr'e on another channel you might as well yell at them as they pass. Maybe hold a sign up with the channell and band your using?.
CB has 40 different channels and Marine, I think has over 70 channells.
I think you would have better luck talking to people at the Pemex's like Bufeo said. If I were using VHS I'd suggest channels # 6, 16, 21 and 22. CB probably 11, 19 and 20. And don't forget there is the FRS radios too!! Another 15 or so channels, it's almost staggering to think of the combinatios.

What ever you do...Have a Great time and Merry Christmas!!

Bedman

David Kay?

David K - 12-16-2003 at 12:18 AM

ferdik1... is it me you want to meet? Sure... I love meeting people crazy about Baja (I don't feel so strange and alone that way). I was going to Bahia de los Angeles for New Years week, but a recent big problem is probably going to ruin that plan. You are welcome to stop by my Oceanside casita if the timing is right and a wall full of Baja maps and books doesn't scare you, HA! Email me via my web site... my u2u here is not working.

Anonymous - 12-16-2003 at 10:13 AM

Thanks Bufeo, Bigaton and Bedman for the suggestions. Think I will just check in at the Pemex's whenever possible.. And Happy Holidays to you!..."El Mochilero"

Ferdic1

Nikon - 12-16-2003 at 10:32 AM

The most ironic Baja road is the one between Puertecitos and Gonzaga. You break down and you feel like the only person on the planet, particularly at night. But the truth of the matter surfaces when you finally arrive at Rancho Grande or Puertecitos, and discover that the mechanics had been told of your dilemna by serveral people. I waited 18 hours, from 12 noon till 7 a.m., but when help did arrive it was from Puertecitos and was the deputy in the police truck who moonlighted as a mechanic. Another time it was fishermen from a nearby camp who took me to their camp and fed me while they worked on my truck. It ain't the 405 that's fer sure.

marla - 12-16-2003 at 11:58 AM

I had a suicidal cow walk right in front of my car on Hwy 1. By slamming on my brakes I was able to avoid hitting it by about 1 inch, because I was travelling at a safe speed already. That cured me of any desire to EVER drive at night, when I would have been less likely to have seen the stupid bovine. People who fail to take sage advice from others who have been there in high-risk situations are called "deceased." Or "paraplegics."