| Pages:
1
2 |
Bagheera
Newbie
Posts: 9
Registered: 11-7-2003
Member Is Offline
|
|
My first "real" Baja vacation: First impressions
I just returned from my first trip south of Ensanada. I spent 4 days driving down Highway 1 from San Diego to Loreto, and 2 days driving back. I've
been back in San Diego for about 6 hours, and these are my initial impressions.
I didn't enjoy the trip as much as I thought I would, and I think I made a few mistakes along the way. I hope those who have more experience than I
can offer me some good feedback.
Ok, a few random impressions:
--Shoulda brought a truck. I drove down in my '95 Cavalier. I don't own anything larger (I have an MR2, but that wouldn't last 5 minutes on Hwy. 1).
The Cav did Ok on the main highway, but almost every single road off the highway was dirt, gravel, rock, or just a mess. There were a lot of places I
wanted to see but couldn't, because I would have had to park my car on the side of Hwy. 1 and hike 20 miles to get there.
--Driving at night is actually pretty safe. Granted, you have to stay really alert (no rumble strips to wake you up before you wipe out), but it's not
the death wish some people make it out to be. Drive about 10 mph slower than you do during the day, keep your eyes open, and you'll be fine.
--Sleeping by the side of the road is safe and fun. On my first night, I pulled over somewhere past Catavi?a (that's Spanish for "the middle of
frickin' nowhere") and laid out under the stars. Christ, I had forgotten there were so many stars in the sky. No one stopped my car; no one even
slowed down. I stayed safe and warm, I saw a beautiful night show, and I saved 50 bucks.
--San Ign?cio is the Garden of Eden. Wow. My favorite stop on the whole trip. The mission is beautiful. The people are beautiful. The date "forest" is
beautiful. The canal is very beautiful. The contrast between the desert and the valley is just, well, beautiful.
--San Ign?cio Springs is the best B&B in Baja. The owners are 2 Canadians who retired to the valley last year. Their rooms are inexpensive and very
comfortable. I give them the highest recommendation. http://www.ignaciosprings.com
--The guy who runs Eco Mundo is a jerk. Eco Mundo is a beachfront palapa stand/kayak rental in Bahia Concepcion, between Muleg? and Loreto. Maybe it
was because everybody else in Baja, from the waiters to the Army officers, were so courteous and friendly that this fellow came off as arrogant and
rude. The accomodations were cheap and somewhat comfortable, but the owner needs to learn a few things about customer service. Have you ever stopped
at a gas station late at night, and dealt with the half-asleep clerk who's ticked off becuase he has to do his job instead of reading a magazine? Then
you've met the owner of Eco Mundo.
--Muelg? is tourist hell. Santa Rosalia to the north and Loreto to the south had their share of gringos, but all of Muleg? felt like Tijuana's
Revolucion. I could tell that the locals were getting fed up. They were a little more testy, and a lot less patient with my poor Spanish, than the
residents in the other 2 towns.
--A little wind can ruin a long trip. A strong wind blew onshore from Cortez, raising chop and whitecaps all up and down the shore. I came to snorkel
the reefs, but the only snorkeling I did was in sandy Bahia Concepcion. Que malo.
Well, I didn't have a great time, but I didn't have a bad time, either. I think going to save up my pennies for an old 4 Runner, thne go back again in
a few months. Any recommendations on what I should do differently?
|
|
|
Bajaboy
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 4375
Registered: 10-9-2003
Location: Bahia Asuncion, BCS, Mexico
Member Is Offline
|
|
Sounds to me like a great trip to me. I agree a truck or suv will expand your possibilities. But, there are so many things to explore along the way.
For example, just post something like "what is your favorite taco stand in San Quintin" on Nomad and wait for the miriad of answers. Or, "what was
the funniest experience you've encountered at a military checkpoint?" Get my drift....
Glad you had an "okay" trip. I leave in 19 days for a 2 week trip.
Zac
|
|
|
Neal Johns
Super Nomad
Posts: 1687
Registered: 10-31-2002
Location: Lytle Creek, CA
Member Is Offline
Mood: In love!
|
|
What to do next time? You had it right, just drive off on any interesting side road. Buy a Baja Almanac (really just many pages of maps with all the
small side roads) and you are all set. Make sure you stock it with tools, fanbelts, water, etc. and um, Mountain Dew. 
With a 4Runner, you probably should camp off the highway to be a little safer.
My motto:
Never let a Dragon pass by without pulling its tail!
|
|
|
David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 65109
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
Member Is Offline
Mood: Have Baja Fever
|
|
Thanks for your trip report!
I do not recommend driving at night (not for safety reasons so much), but so you don't miss some fantastic scenery! The world's most awesome desert
garden, for one!
Good to point out the poor treatment you got at Eco-mundo and the great treatment at Ignacio Springs. There is always some bad with the good, it
seems.
I am surprised by your Mulege impression... That is new and too bad. Like San Ignacio, Mulege is a rare oasis surrounded by desert.
Sleeping under the stars is awesome, but can get chilly this time of year. Rancho Santa Ynez (just past Catavina) has cheap bunk rooms with showers,
and great food.
Thanks again... The 4Runner is a good call... Every dirt road in Baja goes 'somewhere'!
|
|
|
capn.sharky
Senior Nomad
Posts: 686
Registered: 9-4-2003
Member Is Offline
|
|
Driving at Night
I do not recommend it either. It is not safe as you are traveling through open range. Cows and Burros are hard to see at night. I can personally
tell you that I have seen the results of hitting these animals and it is not a pretty sight. However, those that want to drive at night should do so
with extreme caution. It is a free world. I would never presume to tell someone what to do with their lives. I will even help build a little cross
and put candles by the road for the less fortunate night drivers.
If there is no fishing in heaven, I am not going
|
|
|
Mike Humfreville
Super Nomad
Posts: 1148
Registered: 8-26-2003
Member Is Offline
|
|
Great Introductory Trip
Sounds like you'll be back to Baja with improved transportation and I wish that for you. Just your wanting to take that "road less traveled" says a
lot.
While it's not for everyone, few in fact, Baja has something to offer that exists no where else. While some of us worry that Baja will soon be
overcome with folks from the north and elsewhere, I often ponder just how many folks would truly enjoy the central desert and often consider how many
people can be adequately supported there because of natural limitations, e.g., water and weather conditions.
But my main thought is that Baja isn?t for too many of us by its natural barrenness and stark landscapes. I?ve never seen statistics on the number of
first time Baja visitors versus the percentage of returnees, but I could make a wild guess that most don?t come back.
And then you have to consider the places the masses visit. It obviously isn?t the locations you chose for your first. The majority go to Mexico?s
most expensive turf, Cabo. They don?t venture into the outback like you did; they fly in, prepaid and roundtrip. While I very much enjoy
Constitution, La Paz, Los Barriles and the cape, Todos Santos, all as towns having their own unique characters, I, like many others, prefer the
outback.
There is nothing like driving 30 miles down a worn and weathered dirt track, two tirelines in the dust, to arrive at a seaside fishing village with
rabbits and children scampering to see who?s coming, to smell the surf and seaweed and the searing fish on an open grill, to lay back and listen to
the sea pounding the dunes and toss a bag down before the fire goes out only to see that it won?t die until it?s replaced by the million stars in the
sky and you can discover the heart of Baja and your own heart can restore itself from a land of too much somewhere up north.
This last October my wife and I spent time in several places along the east coast between San Felipe, Gonzaga Bay and Bahia de Los Angeles. We hooked
up with friends at every stop, friends we had met on the Internet over the past several years. At our final campsite, of almost two weeks, we were 4
miles south of the village at Bahia de Los Angeles. The camp was filled with friends, new and old and of all ages and backgrounds and it was a
wonderful time. We were alone and yet together when we wanted to be. We shared experiences, advice, specific academics, i.e., geology, physics, and
we found once again that we ALL had values. We shared meals when we wanted, raced back and forth to town and just had a great time. And we captured
a few e-mail addresses to add to the growing number of the ?select few? who love the central desert of Baja.
So, I guess that is my suggestion for you, for your next trip. Since you apparently are from the San Diego area, take your new-to-you truck or SUV
south to Tecate. Cross there and drive Mexico 3 south to Ensenada (paved). Then continue on hwy 3 east to San Felipe. In San Felipe fill up your
tank and head south to Puertecitos (leaving the pavement about here and onto dirt). Continue south along the dirt coast to Gonzaga Bay and enjoy a
much needed shower at Alfonsinas hotel and camp a mile or so south unless you decide to spend $45 for a room. Enjoy the pure and unclutterd view of
the small bay and lagoon there. Spend a night with others at the Restaurant, so remote and unique, one of the most calming shores in the peninsula.
Then continue south to Coco?s Corner and just beyond to Mexico 1. Have a meal along the way at the local restaurants when you can find them and
absorb the local flavor. From Laguna Chapala take the pavement south and when you approach the turnoff to Bahia de Los Angeles take it. Visit the
village, make friends, spend a single night in a small hotel ($20 - $60/night) and hang out. People will find you. Spend at least a calming week
there. The surf is milder than the west coast and you throw your bag down now in a different environment. The small ripples of a calm night let pass
the sounds of seals, dolphins and whales working the coastline, of birds working the bait late into the night, of the small campfires of winter with
idle human chatter.
I?m done lecturing now, not qualified to begin with but we do love Baja. I know by reading your post you?ll be back and encourage it. There are so
few of us that endure well the harshness.
[Edited on 12-2-2003 by Mike Humfreville]
|
|
|
Travelbuff
Newbie
Posts: 5
Registered: 12-2-2003
Location: Federal Way, WA
Member Is Offline
|
|
San Felipe, Puertocitos
The route suggested by Mike sounds interesting. Would we have any problems driving it with our 4x4 Ford 350 with a 9'6" camper on top?
[Edited on 12-2-2003 by Travelbuff]
|
|
|
Anonymous
Unregistered
Posts: N/A
Registered: N/A
Member Is Offline
|
|
Thanks for the report Bagheera. It's always interesting to read a first time visitor's Baja experience.
Mike---I agree with you post. The best part of Baja is off the main highways. ... "El Mochilero"
|
|
|
Skeet/Loreto
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 4709
Registered: 9-2-2003
Member Is Offline
|
|
erra: Great Trport from a first timer. the Land and its People.What you observed and experienced is just Baja in the Raw. A 4w Truck with a small
camper would be the best bet and go over to the Pacific Side South of G. Negro.Just do again what you did on this trip and stay away from the Tourists
Traps. good luck Skeet/Loreto
|
|
|
DavidE
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 3814
Registered: 12-1-2003
Location: Baja California México
Member Is Offline
Mood: 'At home we demand facts and get them. In Mexico one subsists on rumor and never demands anything.' Charles Flandrau,
|
|
Baja And The Mainland Are Two Different Animales
One of the things that strikes me most is that no two trips are the same. It may well be that your internal "defence structure" was working overtime
and this can certainly color a perspective sometimes to the degree of flavoring an entire trip.
As for driving at night. Reliable federal Mexican statistics indicate that over ninety percent of highway deaths occur between the hours of dusk and
dawn on Mex 1. What happens when a flat tire occurs and you cannot pull off onto the shoulder? Points to ponder...
Also a point to consider is to sit down and list (objectively) those specific points about Baja you wish were there, and weren't. Baja is not the
mainland, and some folks desperately wish to camp beneath swaying coconut palms and gorge on tropical local fruit. This would be the mainland from
Mazatlan southward. But the mainland isn't Baja either -- it isn't a desert (south of Mazatlan), but it is green as can be with more beach palapas
than you can shake a stick at. The beauty of it all is that you can find -somewhere- in Mexico to address one's needs no matter what!
Catavi?a is also noted for some shack restaurants that serve up some spectacular "cordoniz" (quail) dishes. A mile or so down the side road to Sta
Inez is a campground for just a few dollars a night. I absolutely do not recommend that you or anyone else spend the night sleeping alongside Mex 1 no
matter where it might be. Off of the road, out of sight is far safer. I've counted more than a dozen robberies alongside Mex 1 after nighfall in the
last half dozen years. Baja loses a certain amount of charm when tempered with the image of a drunk midnight macho pounding on your door with a
pistola in hand. When you consider that four Tijuana "tourist cops" had the stupidity to rob and rape just recently any argument about camping
alongside a highway just doesn't hold water. Be safe, be un-paranoid, but don't be a statistic either.
|
|
|
Mike Humfreville
Super Nomad
Posts: 1148
Registered: 8-26-2003
Member Is Offline
|
|
Travelbuff
No problem with your 350 4x4 and camper. Most of the road is heavy washboard so it'll be slow going between Puertecitos and return to the highway at
Laguna Chapala, but it's mostly occasionally graded and wide. Good luck.
|
|
|
Debra
Super Nomad
Posts: 2101
Registered: 10-31-2002
Location: Port Orchard Wa./Bahia de Los Angeles BC
Member Is Offline
|
|
Mike????????
Interesting post from the guy that left "pieces of POT" all over that road 
I don't think I'd want to take my camper on that route (unless of course I traveled about 2mph and had 4 days to do it!, DON'T SAY IT MIKE!) It IS
BEAUTIFUL THOUGH!
|
|
|
hyme7of9
Junior Nomad
Posts: 31
Registered: 11-10-2003
Member Is Offline
|
|
First Trip
I agree with David,Cap Sharky and David E about driving at night.This is the voice of experence talking from guys in the know.Also I wouldn't sleep
off the side of the road.It's not 1973 anymore.Those days are gone.However, I would park in front of a hotel and crash for the night.Safety in
numbers.Adios.Hyme
|
|
|
Neal Cox
Newbie
Posts: 21
Registered: 8-28-2003
Member Is Offline
|
|
Seems like not too long ago on another board we had many posts about driving at night, some of which involved shooting lights out and being totally
unconcerned about the safety of one's family and loved ones. I for one, seldom drive at night, but back to the subject.
I also think that most first time visitors to Baja are not prepared for what they find, as some of you have mentioned. I know I was not, but am one
of those who loved it even though it was different than I anticipated.
I don't mean for this to sound accusatory, but sometimes the reception you get is related to the attitude and manner that you project. I have visited
Eco Mundo and found the fellow who ran the place very accomodating and friendly. Mulege is still on of my favorite towns to visit (along with most
other towns in Baja), but I often wonder what it would be to live in Baja as a native and have to deal with the onslaught of people from the USA and
other areas. I have run into every extreme from the typical "tourist from hell" to the true "baja traveler". It would be interesting to step into
the shoes of a native.
My suggestion would be to take some more trips, try to take longer if possible. Getting off the main road is good, but if your vehicle does not allow
it, there are many great places accessible by regular vehicle. I would not tie too much cash up in a vehicle for Baja. I have been some amazing
places in a VW bug and even more in a VW Van. Just a good old pick up will get you lots of places, 4X4 is good. Keep on traveling.
|
|
|
Bagheera
Newbie
Posts: 9
Registered: 11-7-2003
Member Is Offline
|
|
Regarding driving at night: I guess I was just impatient. I mean, it got pitch black and freezing cold at 5pm, and it didn't brighten up for another
12 hours. Still, I won't drive at night again (at least, not much  ).
Regarding sleeping at night: In the central desert area, I'd rather not stay at a hotel. I'd really prefer to sleep by the side of the road, either in
my car or out in my coffin bag. What if I were to drive off onto the rancho roads, so I'm out of sight from highway 1 and not within sight of the
ranchos. Safe?
Regarding Eco Mundo: The owner was rude to me and to several other people there. I wouldn't have mentioned his attitude if it was just a little poor.
It was really bad. An example: I had paid for a rented kayak, but he hadn't yet gotten my paddle or vest. While we're talking about the bay, a friend
of his walked in. He dropped my conversation and started talking with his friend. He didn't get the paddle, or mention the bay. He just ignored his
*paid* customer and chatted with his friend. He totally ignored me. I just left to change into my wetsuit. When I came back, he was gone-just a paddle
and a life vest sitting on the counter. 
Regarding Mulege: I live in San Diego, so I know what it's like when tourists take over your town. But I can hardly imagine what it's like when
tourists invade a twon 1/100th the size of mine. It must be hell. The locals in Mulege certainly seemed impatient with the Amis around them.
Two contrasting examples: I got breakfast one morning somewhere south of San Ignacio in a roadside diner that looked like a converted house. There was
no menu; the waitress just told me what she had. The waitress spoke no English, and my Spanish is very basic, so it took us a full five minutes to
figure out what I wanted. Yet she was patient and courteous-a little frustrated, but she understood that I was trying my best to communicate on her
terms. Despite my toddler Spanish ("I want breakfast" "Yes, napkins here, please"), the waitress was happy to help.
Two days later, I was in Mulege at the restaraunt (whose name I forget) at the end of Rio Mulege. When I was finished, I asked the waiter, "Cuantos
cuesta mi lunche?" I was expecting a number in response, but he said something else so fast I couldn't understand it. I said, "Como?" He replied in
English, "**It will be just a moment, sir. I'm very sorry I don't speak English!" in the tone that said he's lost all patience with me.
The difference between the first and second example? In the first case, I was the only gringo around. In the second, the waiter was surrounded by
tourists who spoke about as much Spanish as the Taco Bell dog. I sympathized with the poor guy.
|
|
|
Beware of Instant Friends
Newbie
Posts: 12
Registered: 11-11-2003
Location: Newport Beach, Ca
Member Is Offline
|
|
| Quote: | Originally posted by Bagheera
--Driving at night is actually pretty safe. Granted, you have to stay really alert (no rumble strips to wake you up before you wipe out), but it's not
the death wish some people make it out to be. Drive about 10 mph slower than you do during the day, keep your eyes open, and you'll be fine.
|
Wtach out! Some people here will hang you for driving at night. Then again, the same people rarely drive in baja at all.
| Quote: |
--Sleeping by the side of the road is safe and fun.
On my first night, I pulled over somewhere past Catavi?a (that's Spanish for "the middle of frickin' nowhere") and laid out under the stars. Christ,
I had forgotten there were so many stars in the sky. No one stopped my car; no one even slowed down. I stayed safe and warm, I saw a beautiful night
show, and I saved 50 bucks.
|
Hint:
Be safe. go to Rancho Sant Ynes and save "$40".
| Quote: |
--San Ign?cio is the Garden of Eden. Wow. My favorite stop on the whole trip. The mission is beautiful. The people are beautiful. The date "forest" is
beautiful. The canal is very beautiful. The contrast between the desert and the valley is just, well, beautiful.
|
Welcome to the real Baja. Just watch out for the "Steeker Mongers" during race seascon.
| Quote: |
--The guy who runs Eco Mundo is a jerk.
|
Not surpising. The entire "eco movement" is a royal scam.
| Quote: |
Eco Mundo is a beachfront palapa stand/kayak rental in Bahia Concepcion, between Muleg? and Loreto. Maybe it was because everybody else in Baja, from
the waiters to the Army officers, were so courteous and friendly that this fellow came off as arrogant and rude. The accomodations were cheap and
somewhat comfortable, but the owner needs to learn a few things about customer service. Have you ever stopped at a gas station late at night, and
dealt with the half-asleep clerk who's ticked off becuase he has to do his job instead of reading a magazine? Then you've met the owner of Eco Mundo.
|
Welcome to Baja!
| Quote: |
--Muelg? is tourist hell. Santa Rosalia to the north and Loreto to the south had their share of gringos, but all of Muleg? felt like Tijuana's
Revolucion.
|
OKAY: Your are a know nothing purist with ZERO experience. Mulege simply "ROCKS". The Best of Baja has been there and continues to flourish, to this
day. I'll give 1 day of my life for an hour at the bar in the evening at Serinidad any day.
| Quote: |
--A little wind can ruin a long trip. A strong wind blew onshore from Cortez, raising chop and whitecaps all up and down the shore. I came to snorkel
the reefs, but the only snorkeling I did was in sandy Bahia Concepcion. Que malo.
|
WAAAAH!
| Quote: |
Well, I didn't have a great time, but I didn't have a bad time, either. I think going to save up my pennies for an old 4 Runner, thne go back again in
a few months. Any recommendations on what I should do differently? |
Baja isn't a canned vacation. Get used to it and you might grow as a person to really like it.
|
|
|
pangamadness
Nomad
Posts: 378
Registered: 9-22-2003
Member Is Offline
Mood: Under H20
|
|
If you did not like it you don't need to try it again. Too many people now as you learned through Eco Tours. If you do go again just an FYI. The
people who tell you you should not drive at night are the people who drove at night enough to know. They speek from experience!. If you are lucky you
too will aquire this wisdom.
|
|
|
Debra
Super Nomad
Posts: 2101
Registered: 10-31-2002
Location: Port Orchard Wa./Bahia de Los Angeles BC
Member Is Offline
|
|
We had such a nice rest......
Tom.....you really seem to be a nice guy most of the time, you seem to be hurting about something.....I mean this sincerely, if you need someone to
talk too, U2M...I'm told I'm a good listener. Debra
|
|
|
Bajabus
Senior Nomad
Posts: 892
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: Elias Calles B.C.S. or NC USA
Member Is Offline
Mood: My friends..it's good.
|
|
BOIF, why not give up the rest of your life and spend it all at a bar, it's where you seem to really belong and fit in.
you may want to see a doctor about having the corn cob removed from your A*S*S*
"Preventive war was an invention of Hitler. Frankly I would not even listen to anyone seriously that came and talked of such a thing."
Dwight David Eisenhower
|
|
|
JESSE
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 3370
Registered: 11-5-2002
Member Is Offline
|
|
Sounds like a good first Baja experience, if you get a better car the next time, your second trip will get a lot better.
|
|
|
| Pages:
1
2 |
![[*]](images/xmbforum/default_icon.gif){kind=icon}
