BajaNomad

Holiday weekend trip; Sea of Cortez & El Rosario (41 pics)

BajaNomad - 11-28-2006 at 01:55 AM

Took off for the holiday weekend. Yaay!

Didn't actually leave until Thursday (Thanksgiving) morning, and returned late Sunday evening.

While we had a (camping) destination in mind, we had no reservations anywhere along the way, and nothing was "set in stone." Michelle and I just wanted to enjoy some Baja "getaway time" - and to spend some direct time with our boys. So we left when we were ready and made the most out of each day.

By mid-afternoon Thursday we had meandered as far as Puerto Nuevo and decided our Thanksgiving meal would be Puerto Nuevo-style this year. So, we stopped at Chela's - and besides some gentlemen in the corner sipping tequila with Mariachi's playing for them, we were the only ones there at this point. Had our pick of seating - and were able to sit by the big sliding doors upstairs overlooking the ocean... we enjoyed this seating there very much. My pictures don't do it justice - and yes I can make a better exposure next time.

:P




By the time we finished, we decided to make a run for it all the way to El Rosario and the Baja Cactus Motel for the night before continuing south on Friday. When we arrived in the early evening, we were surprised to find out that Antonio, wife Lorenia and daughter Lorenia were all there as well. We enjoyed visiting with them outside for quite some time.

In the morning we were all able to have breakfast together at Mama Espinoza's - which I had not done before, as I'd only had dinner there in the past. Prices for breakfast were very reasonable considering, and everyone enjoyed what they ordered (I had the Nopalitos Mexicanos with egg - I think it was US$4.50 - and coffee).

Afterwards Antonio helped me find some replacement tubing for my Scribner gas can to use as a filler hose - as my current one was becoming brittle and likely to turn the small cracks in it to big cracks... and after a quick stop at the Baja 2000 parts store (no dice), the Hermanos J... (?) store (Corona sign) came to the rescue. 1 foot of tube - 4 pesos. Thanks Antonio.

While there, also stocked up the cooler a little more with ice and refreshments... headed back to the Pemex to top up, and back to the Baja Cactus to grab Michelle and the kids... and we were headed south!

We arrived at our Sea of Cortez destination a little later than desired - just as we were starting to lose a little light, and had wind - that while expected - was just a little stronger than hoped for. So, we had to deal with some blowing sand - and setup camp accordingly as best we could.

This bay we were at is a favorite because of the extreme tide action across the sand. As it's a inlet/bay, I don't know if you'd call it a shoal here or not? Essentially that's what it is though... a sandbar that crosses this area with a back, shallow, sand-bottom bay. The sandbar is covered by water at high-tide, and is a great beach as the tide goes out.

When we arrived Friday afternoon, the tide was waaay out. By morning it had come in and filled the back bay and at sunrise was getting close to exposing the sandbar again within a couple of hours.

The boys were up, and we all went for a walk across the back part of the bay where the water had mostly retreated from already... made it to the other side and then followed the sandbar across as it became exposed.

Our 6-year old had a blast running all over the sand and exploring some of the items he found - like the dead crab pictured.

There were MANY rays in the shallows off the sandbar as we walked back - and I asked Andrew (16) what the green "thing" was over by him - to which he replied "just kelp on a rock." As I approached it, his rock started moving away - and he then realized it was a decent sized crab that was partially dug into the sand. Ryland, the 6 year-old, was ecstatic.

After returning later in the morning and having some breakfast ... the boys explored some more with Mom, and I snoozed by the truck.

In the afternoon we took another walk along the sandbar to the opposing bluff where there was a rocky shore the boys were able to explore (and the bluff blocked the wind considerably)... so I snoozed a little bit more even.

When the tide began to start rising again, we headed back in the direction of camp, and decided that we'd enjoyed the bay at it's best times, and would make our way back towards El Rosario instead of dealing with the wind again through the night. And besides, I admit the thought of a hot shower and a comfy king-size bed did appeal to me somewhat. The boys weren't so sure they wanted to leave, but when I reminded them of the carne asada tacos in El Rosario and that they'd get to see Antonio, Lorenia & Lorenia again, they said "okay, lets go!"

So we made it back to El Rosario Saturday evening. The boys allowed me to clean up (read: hot shower) first, and then I took them all over to Tacos El Poblano for carne asada tacos. After, we returned back to the room and called it a night early (go figure!). Sunday morning Lorenia and Antonio invited us to have breakfast with them in the courtyard at the motel, which we accepted. Michelle and the kids aided Lorenia in making some hot cakes, eggs, bacon, avocado & nopalitos. During breakfast Antonio said they were going out to investigate a "recreation" area he had been invited to for the past year, but had never visited.

I wasn't sure on time if that was going to work out - but the thought of hurrying to get in the border-wait versus more relaxing time with Antonio & Lorenia became clear... and we accepted.

I'm not quite sure how the gentleman that owns this rancho with the "recreation" area will make it into a feasible business, but it was interesting to see none-the-less.

Here are other photos from the trip (taken by both Michelle & Doug):

Shallow bay...




Tracks of an unseen coyote visitor:




Just after sunrise:

































Andrew, the "miniature crab hunter":




Sunday morning, one of the shells the boys collected decided to walk off the table in the room... a couple of times before they realized what was going on... a hermit crab getting its nerve up to make an appearance...


Antonio, Sunday morning.... teasing me.... "hey Doug - do you want to know what's happening on the Baja Nomad Forums???" Actually, I didn't want to know anything other than if the site was up and running or not.



Our Sunday side trip to the "recreation" area:

First, turn off the highway here (km 82? south of El Rosario):


Then keep going - about 6 miles. Here about a mile off the highway, there's some soft stuff:


Then turn right around this cirio/boojum:


Pass these cardons and the dead boojum:


And past these tall cardons:


Then through the fence... and keep going further back....


...past the cirio shack...


...until you get here:


Where they have birds:


You can try to catch one if you want... here Ryland trying to have a late turkey for Thankgiving... and he was serious about catching one of these birds...


Our tour guide through the fruit trees (limon/guayaba), el gato gordito - who actually followed us everywhere around there:


What is this on the cardons?:




I think everyone enjoyed - even a little - the relaxing time away:



...We were also able to say hi to Anthony from Diamante del Mar at the Pemex Sunday afternoon. Anthony says they're still busy with the Cabo location - and communicated some interesting things they're doing because of challenges in getting grass for their golf courses.

...point of fact.. the Army checkpoints were unmanned through this weekend as well - all of those we passed in the north anyway - both heading down and back.

Th-th-that's all folks! ;D

--
Doug




[Edited on 11-28-2006 by BajaNomad]

FARASHA - 11-28-2006 at 03:08 AM

WHAT A LOVELY TRIP!! Thanks for the beautiful photos, what great pristine beaches, I envy you and your family.
You deserved such a TIME OUT after all.

Cypress - 11-28-2006 at 05:54 AM

That's what I'd call one-heck-of-ah Thanksgiving. Thanks.

Bruce R Leech - 11-28-2006 at 06:36 AM

sounds like you had a good Baja experience with your family. thanks fo sharing it with us Doug.

Oh yes Hose A did a good job.:o

David K - 11-28-2006 at 09:09 AM

What a great Baja weekend!

Glad you got to that perfect beach... will have a great impact on the boys, for sure!

It was really nice that you had time with Antonio and Lorenia, too...

Thanks Doug!

Doug

Baja Bernie - 11-28-2006 at 10:54 AM

Thanks for the trip. Really enjoyed sharing your kids with you.... brought back many happy memory's of my kids and grandkidsin Baja. They even run differently in Baja.

Good on you for the naps.......did you lose a bit of the bags around the eyes.

You really deserved the trip and should take as many of them as you can when you can. Perfect attitude about the Nomad Board!

Thanks Jefe!

Bajagypsy - 11-28-2006 at 12:12 PM

Great pictures, and it sounds like you had a great trip!!

Hook - 11-28-2006 at 12:34 PM

Nice trip, to be sure, and some great photos as well.

Are you being purposely vague on where your "Sea of Cortez" destination is (I understand completely) or did I just miss it? I think I know, though.

We got a little wind in Borrego on Saturday (and into Sunday, on the road) but our location was pretty protected. I'll attach a pic tonite and we'll see if anyone can identify the spot.

[Edited on 12-5-2006 by Hook]

Thanksgiving morning in Anza Borrego

[Edited on 12-5-2006 by Hook]

Nomad-borrego-campsite.jpg - 44kB

bajaandy - 11-28-2006 at 12:42 PM

Doug,

Excellent trip report and photos! I was salivating when you said you had carne asada tacos at Taco Poblanos in El Rosario. Mmmmmmmmmm.

I loved all the photos... especially the one of the boys walking towards you on the wet beach. You captured some great images of the weird sand formations created by the tides. And waht a cool little camp spot nestled in the dunes. Too bad it was windy.

And how cool that you got to spend time with Antonio and family! As I read your post, I began to realize just how wonderful it is to have the Baja Cactus motel as a rest point along the way. It seems to me that it is living up to Antonio's expectations to be a place to call home for the night as one continues their explorations of Baja.

Thanks again for the little day dreaming get-away while reading your trip report.

Doug----

Barry A. - 11-28-2006 at 12:45 PM

try as I might, I cannot identify the "bay" you are camped beside positively-----------is it a "secret place", or can you clue us all in???

I am thinking somewhere in the vacinity of BOLA (the south end?), because of all the offshore islands, but I really do not recognize anything. It is not Animas, is it?? Gonzaga? (tho I see no "snoopy")??? I thought I had camped everywhere, but I sure don't recognize exactly where you were. :?:

Iflyfish - 11-28-2006 at 03:30 PM

Great post, wonderful pics of those happy faces. Wonderful experience for those kids. Lucky!

HoseA did not let me say *** on my post. Thought you would like to know. He was on top of his game!

Iflyfish when not trying to slip a donkey through the moderator

[gotcha]

[Edited on 11-29-2006 by Hose A]

David K - 11-28-2006 at 05:28 PM

This might be a neat game to play: Guess where Doug was?

Intersting guesses so far... :lol::yes:

The ranch in the desert I was told about by Antonio, but haven't been there or know where it is... That looks interesting, like an oasis in the desert... with turkeys and guavas, no less!!!

Here's my guess.

Bajamatic - 11-28-2006 at 05:58 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by David K
This might be a neat game to play: Guess where Doug was?


I'll not name the area to keep the guesses rolling in (I asked Doug for the name and got no response, so I'll let him decide when to let it out).

the spot.jpg - 21kB

bajamatic------

Barry A. - 11-28-2006 at 07:47 PM

----you guys are driving me nuts----------now where is THAT bay????-------again I do not recognize it and I thought I knew ALL the bays within a days drive from Antonios. :lol:

Wiles - 11-28-2006 at 09:18 PM

It's been 25 years but let me see. mmmmmm......angle from the beach looking towards la guardia puts it north of Bahia mmmmm...... tidal range tells me it's a very shallow back bay.mmmmmmmm.....do I see the cone of Isla Coronado in the background mmmmmmm.........I say Remedios

Iflyfish - 11-28-2006 at 09:42 PM

Good one JoseA

Iflyfish

Wiles-------

Barry A. - 11-29-2006 at 12:00 AM

----I think you have nailed it!!! I have only been there by boat, but I believe it fits what I remember, and the Smith (Coronado) Island volcano peaking over the point is the clincher.

I am jealous!!! I always wanted to camp here. Mike Humfreville whould have known it instantly. (assuming we are correct) :?:

David K - 11-29-2006 at 12:24 AM

To confirm just use the Google link for Guadalupe/Remedios and zoom in on the shore line, follow it with your mouse...:biggrin: Providing Bajamatic's sat. image is correct!;D

BajaNomad - 11-29-2006 at 12:42 AM

Remember, it's a large back bay. ;)

bay.jpg - 18kB

Tomas Tierra - 11-29-2006 at 09:36 AM

so we should still be guessing?? or was Wiles correct...



(way cool stuff Doug. great report! Ahhhhh, solitude)

Edit:
Doug, do you recall if the turn to the "recreation area" was past El progresso?? or closer to the Catavina area?? Looks like a cool place to take the kids some day..and maybe a cool place to get off the highway and spend the night, rather than the catavina area..
Tomas

[Edited on 11-29-2006 by Tomas Tierra]

Ensenada Alcatraz????? (to be specific)

Barry A. - 11-29-2006 at 09:38 AM

-----and I believe that Wiles aerial photo is of Alcatraz.

There just are not that many "back bays" along this coast between Gonzaga and San Francisquito. (s. end of Gonzaga----- s. end of BOLA----- sw side of Animas------nw side of Animas------Bahia Remedios/Guadalupe------Boca Grande-------) that is all I can think of.

David K------I went to your website but I cannot figure out how to access your site-specific sat photos. What am I doing wrong??:?:

[Edited on 11-29-2006 by Barry A.]

Hook - 11-29-2006 at 10:01 AM

Barry A., you need to use Google Earth.

Assuming Doug is not trying to throw us off track with his image, it is the northernmost of the three small coves just north of Isla Alcatraz.

Pretty impressive to drive in there as a single vehicle with the family no less, Doug.

[Edited on 11-29-2006 by Hook]

Thanks, Hook-----

Barry A. - 11-29-2006 at 12:26 PM

I do have GOOGLE EARTH and I went there and confirmed all you say.

I just could not find David K's site-specific list of SAT photos, which I guess are from Google Earth.

Anyway, I found all I needed--------that is a place that I HAVE to explore by vehicle----only been there by 12 ' alum boat about 23 years ago, but even at that time there were vehicle tracks at the s. end of the northern most rocky beach (first major rocky beach s. of Punta Remedios). We went ashore at each of the baylets south of there but saw no veh. tracks at that time around any of them----only at the north rocky beach. For years and years we wondered how those vehicles got there, and now we know. Amazing, and yes Doug was pretty gutsy going in there on that "rush" trip alone. Perhaps he was not alone????

Barry

BajaNomad - 11-29-2006 at 02:28 PM

Barry: David, I believe, is referring to his list of links to Google Maps in this thread:
http://forums.bajanomad.com/viewthread.php?tid=10620

And yes, we were solo.

Hook: The picture posted is the place we were - no sleight of hand.

I'm curious which possible situation/risk/danger made this "impressive" or "gutsy" to you?

(edit to add): While I pondered current safety issues beforehand ( http://forums.bajanomad.com/viewthread.php?tid=20860 ), most of the troubles seemed to have a common denominator of proximity to the highway - and I went with the philosophy that bad roads bring good people.

Although windy, I like this area, and wish to further explore the bays to the south towards Isla Alcatraz off the southernmost point of this series of bays. The sandbank/sandbar "beach" by where we were doesn't disappoint though.

I've never seen a name for this actual inlet on any map. "Bahía de los Nómadas" now perhaps? (or is it supposed to be "las Nómadas"?)

Tomas: The "rec" area turnoff from the highway was only about - maybe - 15-20 minutes south of El Rosario. I think Km. 82. Then about 6 miles from the highway. They looked to be making it into a camping location. I wouldn't take an RV or long trailer in there though, at least not with the present road (some very soft/steep places).

Andy... thanks for your comments. :)

--
Doug



[Edited on 11-29-2006 by BajaNomad]

Thanks, Doug-----

Barry A. - 11-29-2006 at 02:42 PM

----I am thinking the "gutsy" part is that I have always thought that it was a rough road into that area (an almost "unknown", in fact) and that therefore it did not receive much traffic, so if you break down you are a long way from possible help. Maybe that simply is not so. I sure want to visit that place sometime.

I did not know that it even existed (the road/trail/track?) until joining the "NOMADS" board.

BajaNomad - 11-29-2006 at 03:26 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by Baja Bernie
Really enjoyed sharing your kids with you....
You can always babysit some time if you'd like me to "share" them more.

(just teasing you there "Bern-dog") ;D

Quote:
did you lose a bit of the bags around the eyes
Possibly. But they'll be back by the end of this week. :lol:

Thanks Bernie. I do appreciate your comments.

Regards,
--
Doug

Hook - 11-29-2006 at 06:10 PM

Ditto on what Barry A. said, in terms of the potential for trouble. Car trouble, not people trouble.

David K - 11-29-2006 at 07:00 PM

Doug drives a 4WD TOYOTA TACOMA... 'nuff said!:biggrin:

Barry A. - 11-30-2006 at 12:23 PM

David------

That is what worried me. My automatic tranny blew up without any warning at 65K on my Toy Camry-----and yes, it had always been serviced by the dealer, exactly as the manual suggested.

Poof, $3,200 gone----2 months out of extended warrantee.

You just never know, for sure, even with a Toy-----------:lol:

Hook - 11-30-2006 at 02:50 PM

I also wasnt aware that Toys were also immune to flat tires. All it would take would be ONE flat in deep sand and you could have a heck of a time jacking it up to even get a spare on. I hope Doug carries some kind of platform for this. Fix a Flat doesnt work in ALL cases.

bajaandy - 11-30-2006 at 03:27 PM

Doug, I applaud you for your sense of adventure. Sometimes you just have to have a little bit of risk involved to make it FUN.

I am reminded of a quote from the movie SandLot.... (Which, by the way, is one of the best and funniest movies ever made....)

"Anyone who wants to be a can't-hack-it pantywaist who wears their mama's bra, raise your hand. ":moon:

(JUST KIDDING!!! Hook and Barry)

[Edited on 12-1-2006 by bajaandy]

Bob H - 11-30-2006 at 03:41 PM

Doug, your photos and trip report were outstanding. Seems like one heck of a great 4-day trip it turned out be with "nothing set in stone".... Fantastic memories you and your family will have if you keep this up.
Thanks for sharing.
Bob H

bajaandy--------

Barry A. - 11-30-2006 at 04:14 PM

I applaud Doug, too------that is exactly what we said in our posts, so not sure where you are coming from.

Still, I don't have to have "risk" in my life to have fun-----in fact risk and responsibility make me a little nervous when on vacation-----I had enough of that on my job.

But if "risk" is what makes your day, then go for it. But please don't cry out for help from me when you get in trouble.

bajaandy - 11-30-2006 at 05:18 PM

Barry,

My post was meant in jest. No offense meant.... I must have mis-interpreted your post. It sounded like you thought going out to someplace remote with only one vehicle was bad idea.

And please note.... I said a LITTLE bit of risk makes it fun. Hope you'll still be there for me if I need you.

:biggrin:

andy-----

Barry A. - 11-30-2006 at 05:25 PM

----not "bad", just gutsy!!!

I guess I am just being a little "sour grapes" as I spent a good part of 30 years helping get folks out of "risky" situations in the "wild"------makes one a little judgemental, I suppose. :(

I have done things just as "risky" myself, but sometimes look back in wonder at my "luck". :lol:

Just call-------and I WILL come!! :yes:

David K - 11-30-2006 at 06:13 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by Hook
I also wasnt aware that Toys were also immune to flat tires. All it would take would be ONE flat in deep sand and you could have a heck of a time jacking it up to even get a spare on. I hope Doug carries some kind of platform for this. Fix a Flat doesnt work in ALL cases.


I hope you know I say these things about Toyota for fun and laughs... It is about the best I have seen for both being trouble free and able to go anywhere... Neal Johns got me thinking Toyota... specially when the Ford dealer didn't want to help me get out of my Plymouth van. I am sure glad I went to Toyota.

But, yes even mighty Toyota Tacomas can break in Baja! Do you guys remeber what happened to Neal Johns somewhere between La Virgen and El Marmol a few years ago? Thank goodness for his satellite phone!

http://vivabaja.com/neal2




[Edited on 12-1-2006 by David K]

Bajamatic - 11-30-2006 at 07:59 PM

A little bailing wire and some gum and i could fix that thing right up.:yes:

windsurfeddy - 11-30-2006 at 08:52 PM

Ok, I just need to know the road conditions after the 13 hours of rain they got from the last hurricane, and in particular the condition of the dry lake bed and arroyos. Also, I windsurf and kite, so did you get an "el norte" wind? We have camped at the La Gringa area since '87, but Don Roberto sold out and the word is that our old spot is fenced and gated...thus the interest on your "secret" spot, thanks. ciao.

David K - 12-1-2006 at 12:36 AM

Quote:
Originally posted by windsurfeddy
Ok, I just need to know the road conditions after the 13 hours of rain they got from the last hurricane, and in particular the condition of the dry lake bed and arroyos. Also, I windsurf and kite, so did you get an "el norte" wind? We have camped at the La Gringa area since '87, but Don Roberto sold out and the word is that our old spot is fenced and gated...thus the interest on your "secret" spot, thanks. ciao.


When the kids and I camped near Doug's secret beach and again at Candeleros to the north over New Years week, 2003 both dry lake beds had water on them (puddles, not covered) and the road across Laguna Agua Amarga stays mostly to the left (west) side of the lake heading north from the L.A. Bay highway...

The surface was firm and 4WD wasn't used.

The sand washes through the canyons were easy to drive on (Arroyo Mesa de Yubay, etc.).

The second dry lake that was wet (Laguna Seca) also presented no problem even though the road north to Candeleros crossed over the middle of that lake.

A couple pictures at http://vivabaja.com/1202

GPS of these routes are in my GPS web page at VivaBaja.com

[Edited on 12-1-2006 by David K]

windsurfeddy - 12-1-2006 at 10:55 AM

Thanks David K., your road info helps cure pre-trip anxieties which seem to go away soon as you hit the road! I will get the GPS coordinates from your site...got some already from the Becknoning web site {go to Google, enter Bahia Guadalupe}. Again, thanks. ciao.

David-----

Barry A. - 12-1-2006 at 11:13 AM

----(1) is the "beach" at the mouth of Los Candeleros cobbles or sand (or both)?

(2) can you drive right to the waters edge? (or real close)

(3) do you think, or did you see, or do you know, if there is any way to access by vehicle the wash complex of ASAMBLEA and SALSIPUEDES to the north of Los Candeleros?? (ala Erle Stanley Gardner in "HOVERING OVER BAJA")

Filesharing Garmin files

Hook - 12-1-2006 at 12:02 PM

Since I am a newbie Garmin GPS owner, please bear with me if this is a rather elementary discussion.

Rather than entering the individual waypoints for route creation, shouldn't those of us using Garmin's version 2 .gdb files be able to actually share routes and tracks via email?

I am thinking that one could open someone else's .gdb file in a new gdb document, copy the individual routes/tracks, paste them into our own personal "master" gdb document and upload them into the individual unit. Anyone game for this? David?

As a precaution, maybe use a gdb file that doesnt have your "home" as a waypoint in the document. What a great feature that would be on your website, David......to be able to download a Baja master file with individual routes and tracks.

BTW, I didnt notice a waypoint where the road to Bahia Guadalupe left the BOLA pavement. Do you have that?

[Edited on 12-1-2006 by Hook]

David K - 12-1-2006 at 01:05 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by Hook
Since I am a newbie Garmin GPS owner, please bear with me if this is a rather elementary discussion.

Rather than entering the individual waypoints for route creation, shouldn't those of us using Garmin's version 2 .gdb files be able to actually share routes and tracks via email?

I am thinking that one could open someone else's .gdb file in a new gdb document, copy the individual routes/tracks, paste them into our own personal "master" gdb document and upload them into the individual unit. Anyone game for this? David?

As a precaution, maybe use a gdb file that doesnt have your "home" as a waypoint in the document. What a great feature that would be on your website, David......to be able to download a Baja master file with individual routes and tracks.

BTW, I didnt notice a waypoint where the road to Bahia Guadalupe left the BOLA pavement. Do you have that?

[Edited on 12-1-2006 by Hook]


The turnoff to go north from the L.A. Bay Hwy. is listed on the section Hwy. 1 to L.A. Bay... The road north to Guadalupe Bay and Candeleros is listed just below and in that list I did not repeat the turnoff waypoint...

Here is the L.A. Bay Hwy log to the Guadalupe turnoff off my GPS web page:

To Bahia de los Angeles (& Mision San Borja)

Highway 1 and L.A. Bay Jcn: 29°02.75'/ 114°09.13'

Road north to Desengaño & Yubay (see log below): 29°04.30'/ 114°02.37'

Old L.A. Bay Road in from north in Arroyo Yubay: 29°03.64'/ 114°00.22'

Road north to Bahia Guadalupe and Pta. Candelero (see log below): 29°01.27'/ 113°47.76'



[Edited on 12-1-2006 by David K]

David K - 12-1-2006 at 01:13 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by Barry A.
----(1) is the "beach" at the mouth of Los Candeleros cobbles or sand (or both)?

(2) can you drive right to the waters edge? (or real close)

(3) do you think, or did you see, or do you know, if there is any way to access by vehicle the wash complex of ASAMBLEA and SALSIPUEDES to the north of Los Candeleros?? (ala Erle Stanley Gardner in "HOVERING OVER BAJA")


1) All cobble and tons of driftwood for fires! Also lots of palm trash I suspect came down the coast from La Asamblea because I explored up Candeleros and found no palms.

2) Yes.. well to the cobble berm anyway... It was windy so we drove across the arroyo to the north side for a wind break... See the photo of my truck and tent. You are across from the north tip of Angel Island... very cool to drive all that way north from L.A. Bay on a road that isn't on any maps!

3) I have talked a lot with BillB on this as it is his ambition to get his Rokon scooter in the way Erle and company did 40 years ago... Going north from the second dry lake to Salsipuedes... The road to Candeleros beach goes east from the north end of that dry lake and drops into Candeleros arroyo... I didn't see any 'road' to the north.

Hey you and Hook are lucky I came back home to pick up some things... I am still 'at work'! LOL

Off to Discover Baja for the Christmas Party tonight!

BajaNomad - 12-1-2006 at 09:17 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by Barry A.
I have always thought that it was a rough road into that area... if you break down you are a long way from possible help.


As concise as I can be: No; and sort of, as it's subjective.

24 miles one-way in about an hour. Negligible elevation change - from the highway down to the Sea essentially.

If you break down and can't recover - your longest walk (as I was not packing a Sat Phone) is 12 miles from the midpoint. There's traffic on the highway, and we saw three pangas come closely by the bay on Saturday that could've been waved down if necessary.

I doubt there was any other traffic along that road the time period we were there (could've been though, but unlikely). When the fisherman are at the shack just north on B. Guadalupe, I believe the truck to see them comes out once a week or so. Last time I visited "fisherman" at the shack they were actually diving for sea cucumbers at the nearby ridge - one was the diver, and the other man was responsible for running the breathing apparatus for the diver.

Yes, I do have wood in the back of the truck as a bed that can also be used to make a platform in sand if necessary. Maybe I need one of these too/instead?:
http://www.cabelas.com/prod-1/0010048520776a.shtml?hasJS=tru...

Probably had enough water (some of it as small water bottles that could be carried in a backpack if necessary) - maybe even food - for at least a week beyond our stay.

Regarding the Toyota: It's my third small Toyota truck. All of them manual transmission. They have been very, very good to me - and I drive them hard. I also maintain them well. The first one I sold after it reached 250,000 miles.

Tires and driving style: As noted, I drive hard. More so in the past than the present though. Having done so in Baja for quite a few years now, I've had my share of issues. Usually tires. I take my tires (and air pressure) pretty seriously - and the best, most reliable tires I've found for a vehicle the size I'm driving in Baja are the Bridgestone Desert Duelers. I will NOT use BFG All-Terrains even if they gave them to me for free. Just too many problems with the All-Terrains and too much risk from my experience (I've never used the Mud T/As or Baja T/As). I've mentioned this before on more than one occassion when the topic of tires comes up - but I don't think people realize my emphasis on this recommendation:
http://forums.bajanomad.com/viewthread.php?tid=2565#pid17383
http://forums.bajanomad.com/viewthread.php?tid=18885#pid1644...

FYI:
http://forums.bajanomad.com/viewthread.php?tid=5135#pid37810

I did on this trip (not before) note that my front tires were probably not of the condition I was most comfortable with, and will be replaced before any other significant upcoming off-road destination(s).

Regarding driving solo: I think the only time I've traveled with another vehicle off-road in Baja (together as a group) was last year's El Rosario Festival (other exceptions I now think of are at the same event, traveling with SquareCircle to La Lobera - and the trip to the "rec" area this past holiday weekend with Antonio, et al). My travels in Baja and the style of travel I have pursued are what prompted the moniker carried by this website: Baja Nomad. I like to wander, usually solo. Don't stay in one place very long. Like to drive, and like to cover some ground in doing so.

This is all about risk. Here's more: This was Ryland's first time on a (somewhat) significant outing such as this. The first time he's seen the Cortez. He's six. Why? Because when he was small I decided I wasn't comfortable taking him into the remote parts of the peninsula the way I like to travel. I thought there might be too much risk in his surviving in case we did get stuck somewhere. I wanted to wait until he was older. About a year or more ago I determined he was ready in my mind for a trip like this, only in building my business, I haven't been ready.. until this past holiday weekend.

Yaay.

Now, here's a quote from one of my favorite articles of all-time, written by Randy Wayne White for his column in Outside Magazine; January, 1997:

"If there is risk in what we do--and an active life always involves risk--then we have the option of throttling back and living safe but dull lives, or we have the option of embracing those risks and trying to manage them as best we can."

I quoted this long ago on the bottom of this now obscure page:
http://www.bajanomad.com/articles/more.htm

And the whole article is now here:
http://outside.away.com/magazine/0197/9701out.html

While I have "throttled back" a bit by being a father and the process of maturing over time - there's still moments in time where I'm on the gas. Another quote from the above RWW article:

"That bastard Grim Reaper is loose in the room and moving targets are harder to hit."

Could something have happened. Yep, sure.

Did I personally view it as "impressive," "gutsy," or of significant risk? No, not really.

I appreciate your concern greatly however. Thank you.

--
Doug Means

BajaNomad - 12-1-2006 at 09:24 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by windsurfeddy
Ok, I just need to know the road conditions after the 13 hours of rain they got from the last hurricane, and in particular the condition of the dry lake bed and arroyos. Also, I windsurf and kite, so did you get an "el norte" wind?


Road conditions already (vaguely) addressed.

Wind was offshore from the west. Blew hard enough for my six year-old to complain a couple of times about the blowing sand stinging his ankles.

--
Doug





[Edited on 12-2-2006 by BajaNomad]

BajaNomad - 12-1-2006 at 09:45 PM

Addenum:

I also only carried one spare tire on this trip, when sometimes I'll carry two.

And in further hindsight, I could've indicated to Antonio more specifically where I was going in case he didn't see me come back by Sunday or Monday to know there might be an issue for us.

Ken Cooke - 12-1-2006 at 09:56 PM

Our friend Tom Severin blew out an All-Terrain sidewall the size of your fist on his way to Animas Bay from BofLA on our trip a few weeks ago. With a complete set of BFGs, he was worried that he would make it up the rough road from Laguna Chapala to San Felipe. His was the only blowout on the entire trip, but you could imagine his anxiety if he were traveling alone. You never know, except, carry plenty of extra food and water...and perhaps a good tent or sunshade...

Doug-----GREAT POST----

Barry A. - 12-1-2006 at 11:49 PM

Your de man!!!!!

Personally I have been travelling in the dirt on BFG TA's for years and years with few problems other than those that can be fixed with a Plug kit. A few times I have destroyed one that was essentially worn out anyway.

I always carry two spares, but have had to use the 2nd one only four times in 50+ years. I was glad I had them those times.

90% of the time I have had at least one other veh. with me.

My son usually uses Bridgestone Desert Duelers and loves them, and usually accompanies me in his tricked out and ancient 76 ' FJ-40. I know that he has spent $1000's on that vehicle over the years----it has everything----he has had it for about 20 years.

Thanks for your detailed response. Fun stuff.

BajaNomad - 12-3-2006 at 12:24 PM

Barry,

You make my point in your post. :)

I too have had few problems with the BFGs over many miles, but of the few problems I've had, a couple were scary sidewall blowouts. After many miles now on the Bridgestone Duelers, no scary problems at ALL (only driver error in once not properly airing down causing a rock to poke a hole through the tread near the Comondus - and a defective tire [which held together and did NOT come apart] in the U.S. that was replaced for free by Firestone/Bridgestone).

As with you and the second spare, same with me recognizing I don't have those few bothesome times of replacing a destroyed BFG any longer. At least not yet anyway.

:::::knock on wood::::: ;D

Bob and Susan - 12-3-2006 at 08:45 PM

thanks...
now i have to go to Americas Tires tomorrow...
little bumps on the sidewalls..
all i need is a sidewall blowout:fire:

David K - 4-30-2012 at 06:56 PM

This was such a great trip report (from 2006), it deserved another look... Good job BajaNomad/ Doug!

Ateo - 4-30-2012 at 07:07 PM

I love Chelas in Puerto Nuevo. Times are tough there these days.....last time we went we were the only people there, being served by the owner, not a waiter.