Copper Canyon

Hello Nomads! I have been absent for comment for some time as I have been traveling for work, that said I must confess that when it was cold and rainy I always came back to get mt Baja fix here. THANK YOU!

I know this is a little off topic, but as many of you have explored the mainland of Mexico I thought that I would ask for advise and opinions on driving Copper Canyon.

I plan on leaving from Tucson and entering Mexico at Nogales. I have found a few helpful sites on the route, but personal expirences are always more reliable.

Have any of you driven in this area, and if you have can you list some "not to miss" sites or "be sure to miss areas"?

I wont be leaving until January...not set on the date yet.
Thanks in advance for you input, and thanks for letting me "warm up" here from time to time. BT

I've been there twice now and plan to go back as soon as I can. Both times I went I have traveled by train. Once from Los Mochis to Creel and back and the next time was from Los Mochis to all the way to Chihuahua, with stops at Divisadero and Creel.

I really like the train trip as it lets you relax and enjoy the scenery. Once you get near the canyon rim near Creel the road follows the tracks; but, the dirrect road west down to Los Mochis that most closley follows the train tracks is very treacherous, requires a river ford, goes through drug country, and was considered non-existent/mule trail for years.

If you are driving from Nogales to the Copper Canyon area you will most likely head east out of Hermosillo on Mex 16 to get to Creel. Just before the turnoff south to Creel check out Basaseachic Falls.

Creel is known as "the gateway to Copper Canyon" I've stayed at both the Margarita's Hotel and Hostel in town. Both were excellent; but, different.
They have an ATM in town; and, all around Creel is pretty touristy nowdays. Helicopters fly in and out taking scenic tours, etc..

Still Creel is a nice little funky mountain town with some great places to see right around it. Just outside of town is a Tarahumara reservation with a nice lake. I'm not sure how the fishing is; but, I'd hire a driver to take you to the, "Valley of the Monks" for some photos, then hike up the wash to the right for about 1/2 mile to an overlook into the Rio Chinipas (The same valley where Pancho Villa often hid out)

Also near Creel... Cusarare Falls is worth the short/easy 2 mile hike to them.

A road down to the canyon bottom to a nice little town named Batopillas is possible. The road is now much improved from when I rode on the roof of the bus (so I could jump off) down to the bottom of the canyon years ago. Nonetheless the road is still very narrow, filled with switchbacks, rocks, ruts, extreme drop offs, etc.. A bus made it down; but, don't try to tow your 5th wheel. Near Batopillas the Lost Mission at Satevo is worth a visit if you are there. You can also hire people to guide you out to local native villages from here.

There are many other little towns in the area worth a visit. Some I know of and some I don't. You might see if you can take the train from Creel to Temoris or so. Temoris is not much of a town; but, the train heads through some nice country in that stretch; although, my favorite is between Temoris and Loreto(near El Fuerte) The train is best traveled West to East to see the scenery; but, a day down to El Fuerte, then back to Creel the next might be worth your while. (Forget your seat and stand between the rail cars with your head hanging out like a dog.)

I'm envious, and need to get back. Take a warm jacket, gloves, and warm hat for night and early morning up around Creel. It can be cold there during the winter. It will be hot at the canyon bottoms.

Have a great trip!

Bring your wide angle lens: (To big for any camera)


Valley of the Monks:



As bajajudy said, lots of nice baskets for sale:

I traveled there via 4WD in December '06 through January '07. I would recommend 4WD as it makes the trip much more safe, although the dirt roads turn into mud, and there ARE NO GUARDRAILS on many of the dirt roads. In addition, the roads tend to freeze over at night, so please exercise cautiuon.

As a potential traveler to the Copper Canyon, you will see that people tend to be "buttoned-lipped" about routes taking you into and through the canyons. Coming from an experienced Baja traveler, I find this to be nonsense. Doug Rhodes of Paraiso Del Oso is able to plot your route via email, and his guest ranch was excellent. His ranch was able to set up nice horseback rides for me and others at the ranch, and I had an excellent time. The food his staff served was also great. I loved the drinks there as well during their '07 New Years celebration.

Doug Rhodes can be contacted at: Doug@OnlyMyEmail.com

Enjoy your trip, be safe, and take lots and lots of pictures. Also, the town of Creel is your major jumping off point. Be sure to travel in and out of Creel when there are no major snowstorms in the forecasts. Also, be sure to carry tire chains as these roads turn into ice very quickly.

Here is what the locals have to endure in order to get into town. Mud is everywhere during daytime hours.:




Be ready for scenes like these where 2WD vehicles are backing up the icy, snowy roads:




The basketweavers of Divisadero:




There ain't no Pemex stations in El Fuerte :



The view from Paraiso Del Oso:



[Edited on 11-5-2007 by Ken Cooke]

Was your weaver taken at Mirador?

The food at Divisadera was really good.

We had a great time in Chihuahua. This little boy caught my eye.

Instrucciones:
First, you travel to Bisbee, AZ for a good nights sleep (via Hwy 80).
Next, you wake up real early - say, 7 a.m., and drive down to Douglas, AZ where you will cross into Agua Prieta, Sonora). You stop at the border (inside Mexico), get your tourist visa and vehicle permits. Then, you drive clear to Creel, Chihuahua - hoping to make it before sunset (since you will be driving in the forest w/o streetlamps to light your way). Then, you will have reserved your motel somewhere in Creel. From there, the next day, you can drive to Divisadero in about 2 hours.




From Divisadero (where you can shop for plenty of Tarahumara-made items), you can travel into the canyon, but beware of iced over routes and thick mud that will stop you, or possibly throw you towards or possibly over a cliff!

The 4WD group I traveled with stayed at Paraiso Del Oso, Cerocahui, Chihuahua, Mexico ("Where Horses Climb Mountains")


Paraiso Del Oso, Cerocahua, Chihuahua, Mexico






Mile Description
0.0 Pemex station on south side of Creel
1.0 Right turn marked for San Rafael
17.1 Pass Pitorreal turnoff - continue straight
28.0 Continue straight - left turn goes to Divisadero, the Posada Barrancas train station, and the Tarahumara Mansion Hotel.
31.0 Turn right
34.7 Asphalt pavement ends, concrete pavement continues to railroad crossing.
34.9 Straight across railroad tracks at San Rafael
38.9 Turn right - "low road" continues left here. The low road is more scenic but use caution during the rainy season. Drop down 6 rows for the low road option road log.
39.4 Road stops climbing (~7840' elevation)
42.0 Turn left by a small group of houses
58.8 Turn left - Bahuichivo is visible on the left
59.1 Low road rejoins here - continue straight
59.6 Cross railroad tracks at Bahuichivo train station

Good luck, and enjoy your drive!


[Edited on 11-5-2007 by Ken Cooke]

Eating some good snacks at Divisadero:



Shopping like a fool in Divisadero:



Horseback riding with Angelia and Brad!!!:



The view from Divisadero in late December '06:



[Edited on 11-5-2007 by Ken Cooke]

Here is what a "Wild Night On The Town of Creel, Chihuahua" looks like!!




Searching for spare tires in Cerocahui looked like this. Exactly. No OEM direct-fit tires for miles!



I videotaped every inch of our adventure. From tire-spinnin' action on ice to baskets being woven in slow-motion. Maybe NBC or ESPN will buy the videotapes for $50 million???