BajaNomad - VIZCAINO TO BAHIA TORTUGA

VIZCAINO TO BAHIA TORTUGA

Udo - 8-3-2008 at 12:27 PM

This last February my wife Jana and I decided to bite the bullet and take the long road from Vizcaino to Bahia Tortuga. My last time there was over 30 years ago. The town has not changed much, and the only progress that shows was the addition of two Pemexes, one with diesel.
Many of you yellow tail fishermen, may be familiar with the place because they host a very large yellow tail tournament every year. Others may be familiar with it as a respite bay for wary sailors. Punta Eugenio is the actual name of the point and I was fortunate enough to meet the great grandson of the person whose name the point was named after. His name also was Eugenio. Everyone in this little town is involved in either fishing from the bay, or lobster & octopus fishing from Playa Malarrimo.
The town prides itself in their honesty, and they brag about their being able to leave their keys in an open car and it still being there in the morning. The town has nothing but very small dirt streets and most of them are one way. The town has a ten room motel for about $30.00 per night. The rooms were adequate. There is a restaurant/bar across the street that also houses the hotel’s registration desk.
Playa Malarrimo is about 20 miles away via a paved and good dirt road. There are two fish camps there, but don’t be fooled by the shacks. The fishermen live in Bahia Tortuga and most are well off. I was fortunate to get to know Eugenio and was invited to their house for coffee. Cozy on the outside but nicely decorated inside complete with vitage photos of the town and kids, as well as numerous infamous glass fishing floats.
The road from Vizcaino is paved to the Bahia Asuncion turn-off, but the next 60 miles is graded dirt with many loose talcum powder deep spots and some wash-outs. It’s the kind of road you either drive at 15mph or over 45mph. We drove it in a Toyota FJ and we chose the 50mph route with full air pressure. The last 20 miles into Bahia Tortuga was nicely paved and they were feverishly paving the area to meet the blacktop at Bahia Asuncion turnoff. I am guessing that it will fully be paved by summer 2009.
Here are a few photos of the more scenic spots. I will have to post this in two or three postings because after four photos from photobucket, the posting just disappears. This is my fourth attempt at this posting, including having to save this writing in WORD and pasting it in the post.
The road from the Asuncion turnoff (the good part):

Our Motel

[Edited on 8-5-2008 by BajaNomad]

Udo - 8-3-2008 at 12:33 PM

More photos of Bahia Tortuga:

Church at the bay

Looking at the pld cannery on the bay

The pier without railings

The cannery

pulling out a panga @ low tide

[Edited on 8-5-2008 by BajaNomad]

DianaT - 8-3-2008 at 12:47 PM

Nice---getting the picture thing down! Good.

I really liked that church in Tortugas but with where it sits, it is difficult to get a full picture of it.

I am not real clear as to where the hotel is? And do you happen to know if they would accept dogs?

We went out there just on a day trip last January and do want to spend some more time there.

Also, next time, if you want a different route, take the dirt road from San Jose Del Castro to Bahia Asuncion---can get a little rough, but it is a beautiful drive.

Thanks for the report and the pix.

Diane

David K - 8-3-2008 at 12:51 PM

Thanks Udo!!!

Cypress - 8-3-2008 at 12:55 PM

udowinkler, Thanks for the pictures and the report. :spingrin:

Udo - 8-3-2008 at 01:26 PM

Diane,
Here is another photo os the church...cool design. I had taken so many church and mission photos in the past that I didn't feel I needed to add more to my collection.
The motel is directly at the end of the paved road as you enter the town. Since it is the only two story building in town, it's hard to miss it.
Next time we are there, around whale season next year, we will try the dirt road you suggested, Diane.
Directly behind the church is a restaurant/bar...there is a fine line between Saturday night and Sunday morning!

Shows restaurant/bar and church in background.

[Edited on 8-5-2008 by BajaNomad]

Udo - 8-3-2008 at 01:35 PM

One more photo:
The restaurant/bar/registration desk next to the motel. The famous walls (to the locals) depict the history of the town as well as great catches from the ocean. This part of the wall also features all beers available in Mexico.

DianaT - 8-3-2008 at 02:20 PM

Yes, we definitely want to spend more time there and exploring around. Since we were on a day trip and stopped at San Pablo, we basically went into Tortugas, took a few pics, ate lunch and headed back to BA. It was winter time and we don't like driving those roads after dark!

What was the name of the Hotel---do you remember? I have heard there are two in town and one can be dog friendly.

Here are a couple of pix from the back road (short cut) to BA--just gives the idea of some of the scenry.

OH, one more question---do you run your FJ Crusier on regular gas??

Thanks
Diane

bajalou - 8-3-2008 at 02:32 PM

Just to get it straight in my mind, are the pictures of the town of Bahia Tortuga? You mention Punta Eugenio which is a town at the point.

Bajaboy - 8-3-2008 at 03:18 PM

I don't recall the name of that restaurant but I've many great meals there. Nice people as well.

Zac

Quote:

Originally posted by udowinkler
One more photo:
The restaurant/bar/registration desk next to the motel. The famous walls (to the locals) depict the history of the town as well as great catches from the ocean. This part of the wall also features all beers available in Mexico.

Udo - 8-3-2008 at 03:32 PM

Diane, I believe the motel's name was Motel rendon. I did not ask about dogs, but there were some local full timers that had two dogs in their room, so I assume they are OK there.
The FJ, we have driven it about a year-and-a-half on regular, 38K miles, plus about 40 tanks of Mexican magna sin. 0 problems. Average about 20 MPG. The suspension is absolutely superb. It was like driving a very high end SUV no matter what type of road we got into. The 4WD was flawless. When needed, we could lock all four tires in 4WD on the very softest dirt, and it was unnecessary to drop the air presure. HOWEVER...I am a very experienced off-roader and know the "off-road feeling" if you get what I mean. Just like a sailor can feel the wind when holding the sheets in one's hand; which I have done also.

Bajalou...the photos are of the town of Bahia Tortuga. The point itself is a few miles to the west via a dirt road like the ones Diane has shown. Generally there are no wash-outs on that road, but you have to consider hurricane rains that may reach the area as well as winter rains. Winter time is fairly cold on the peninsula.

Udo - 8-3-2008 at 03:38 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Bajaboy
I don't recall the name of that restaurant but I've many great meals there. Nice people as well.

Quote:

The restaurant's name was the same as the motel...RENDON. I gues it is someone's last name. The other motel was the Nancy at the east end of town.

Zac

Quote:

DianaT - 8-3-2008 at 03:45 PM

Thanks for the info on the FJ. We have considered one as our Tundra has lots of miles---but our last 4WD Toyota had over 200,000 when it was stolen and it was going strong.

We thought the "only use premium" might be not really necessary. We just wish Toyota would come out with something with better milage---something, that is, that is good for Baja.

You said it can get cool in the winter? Yikes, with the wind, it gets down right COLD. Then again, I prefer the cold over the hot!

Diane

Udo - 8-3-2008 at 04:07 PM

Diane,
As you already know, cold weather is somewhat relative. I live in snow country and we get about 21' (feet, not inches) a season, and when we come down during the winters is is reasonably warm for us. But when I see the locals wearing the heaviest clothing they can get a hold of, plus gloves. It is cold! (Although balmy, indian summer for us). We always bring our left-over clothing to leave at the church of whatever town we visit. Generally we bring at least 4 large bags of clothes. When we come near Christmas, we bring toys & bikes. We are happy to recognize some or our old clothing worn by the locals no matter where we end up. We loved Bahia Tortugas, and wish we were members of this group when we were there this past winter and for sure we would have dropped by for a howdy in Asuncion. What a great hideaway. I hope they never pave your road!
When we retire in 5 years, we have 6 places in Baja Sur that we plan on rotating our stays while in our Monaco, and Asuncion is one of them!

Terry28 - 8-4-2008 at 08:35 AM

21 feet of snow in running springs???? What country is that in??

BAHIA TORTUGAS: APRIL, 1955

David K - 8-4-2008 at 08:46 AM

Photo from Howard Gulick...

[Edited on 8-5-2008 by BajaNomad]

DianaT - 8-4-2008 at 08:57 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by David K
Photo from Howard Gulick...

Nice picture-- looks like the same pier as today.

Udo,
Yes, cold is relative, but 21 feet of snow in Running Springs? Maybe you are in a different Running Springs than I remember.

One thing we learned recently was that Tortugas used to be the main delegacion but then it changed to Bahia Asuncion.

Also, you mentioned that some of the fishermen seemed fairly well off. In Tortugas, the coop members can fish for both of the big money items, lobster and abalone whereas in Bahia Asuncion and the other fishing villages on the peninsula they have to choose one or the other. Makes a big difference in income.

Diane

[Edited on 8-5-2008 by BajaNomad]

Iflyfish - 8-4-2008 at 09:02 AM

Great post. We have been curious about this place, it is on our bucket list!

Thanks,

Iflyfish

Udo - 8-4-2008 at 05:42 PM

It is nice to see what an off-the-wall post will bring out our members.

Thanks for the old photo David K. This is what I feel that the Nomad site is supposed to be about. This photo gives me some perspective between my trip of the early seventies and my last one.
I wish I could figure out (let's not get Diane started) how to convert my old Baja slides into digital photos so I can then downsize them to transfer them to photobucket so I can post them on Nomads.

Diane:
our 21' of snow is an accumulation from the beginning of the season. The most I ever remember having snowed at one time was in 78 when we ended up with 8'. But snow accumulation is kinda like a rain gauge. At the end of the season you push the cumulative total on the weather station and you get what you get.

I was not aware that the co-op fishermen in Tortuga were different than
in other areas. (for those who don't know, fishermen generally turn in their catches to a broker[the co-op] who then sells it to markets, restaurants, fish markets, etc. allover the peninsula). I did spend a couple of days getting to know these people and they did seem secretive about their dealings and prices of the co-operative.

When I visited Eugenio's house, it was modest on the outside, but the inside was very nicely decorated. Mom's kitchen was four time bigger than mine. The total square footage of his house was about 1600.
I think Eugenio also owns part of the cannery because he sells canned caracol with his name on it. He also gave me a half a dozen cans to take home. One thing I have to introduce him to is brewed coffee. My next visit I'm bringing him a drip brewer, a coffee grinder, and roasted beans. |I'm the type that buys green beans from Africa, and South America, roast them in a tumble roaster, and grinds the roasted beans in an Italian stone grinder the night before the brewing. This family was very proud of their instant coffee and I did not say anything about their coffee or about mine. I'll just bring the package as a surprise next time.

It is nice to know that some of us relative newcomers can still bring appreciated posts (Iflyfish) to the board.

Sunman - 8-4-2008 at 06:17 PM

Great post, spectacular drive south from there to Asuncion, Hipolito, and Abreojos. Made the same trek last September which led to a great meeting with Juan and Shari.

I remember spending a wonderful night out on playa Clambey as well as taking one of those "wrong turns" that led to the neatest, unexpected afternoon with a family out at Puerto Escondido.

Terry28 - 8-4-2008 at 06:52 PM

Dude, I just can't let this slide...Your saying your season snow total is 21 feet??? I live in Big Bear and I call B.S. ( but I do it with a smile, as opposed to some others on this board)

openeyes - 8-4-2008 at 06:54 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Terry28
Dude, I just can't let this slide...Your saying your season snow total is 21 feet??? I live in Big Bear and I call B.S. ( but I do it with a smile, as opposed to some others on this board)

Terry,

Did you ever get out of that place in the bay. How is your beautiful wife and daughter doing these days.

Terry28 - 8-4-2008 at 06:59 PM

Openeyes,

No, we still have the place at Buenaventura, and the family is well...now the big ??? is ' who are you?" We will be there in Oct. You?

openeyes - 8-4-2008 at 07:01 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Terry28
Openeyes,

No, we still have the place at Buenaventura, and the family is well...now the big ??? is ' who are you?" We will be there in Oct. You?

Met you in the bar there couple of years back. My wife and 10 year son were with me. Names Bob and I live in Point Loma.

Udo - 8-4-2008 at 07:32 PM

Quote:

Terry, I drive to Big Bear every Thursday to both Bear & Summit ( I sell stuff to the lifts) and we are always comparing notes on snow, and on the average Running Springs gets somewhat more snow than Big Bear. Just add it up: 20 storms of 6-12" and throw in a few two footers, and it's not hard to come up with 20' at season's end. BUT...21' is the average, some years we get 12', as was this past season. I did not make that stuff up. Our Running Springs water department is the one who posts the snow statistics. And you guessed it...I sell stuff to them also

Udo - 8-4-2008 at 08:42 PM

Parrot at bar in San Buenaventura

Motel San Buenaventura

Motel @ San Buenaventura

Motel @ San Buenaventura

with beach view and RV park

Enjoy! Terry

[Edited on 8-5-2008 by BajaNomad]

dtbushpilot - 8-4-2008 at 10:12 PM

Hey udo, great pics of Buenaventura. This was the first place we camped in Baja, before the hotel was built and the bar only had the pool table. The part where the tables are now was outside. It was impressive watching the workers build the hotel. All the concrete was mixed in gas powered mixers and the rocks were carried over from across the road one pick-up load at a time. We stayed there a couple of times back in the old days but prefer camping. I probably have some good pictures from Buenaventura and Punta Conception from our trip last month but will have to wait for Jill to return from San Diego to download them from the camera. Until then, here's one of the bird.....Jill makes friends everywhere she goes...

Udo - 8-5-2008 at 08:15 AM

Looks like the same exact bird.
I own an African Grey and I also make friends with any and all parrots.
Also looks like we hit the same spots when traveling in Baja, DT.
The bar at Buenaventura was a nice rest area. The Hotel was equally nice, but the trucks on the highway were somewhat noisy when they used their jakes down one hill and accelerated up the other hill. Absolutely gorgeous beach to camp and Kayak from.

dtbushpilot - 8-5-2008 at 11:28 AM

We also drive an FJ cruiser to Baja when we don't take the truck or plane.....
The last time we were there I dug up a large bowl full of clams with my toes and Jill made spagetti with clam sauce....dt

[Edited on 8-5-2008 by dtbushpilot]

Cypress - 8-5-2008 at 11:35 AM

dtbushpilot and udowinkler, Thanks for sharing the pictures. :yes:

About the bird. :tumble:

Had a c-ckateil once, a coon ate it.

Terry28 - 8-5-2008 at 01:22 PM

Udo,
Nice pictures...the parrots name is "George" and he does bite...as for the 21 feet, all I can say is I think you have found a profession that does not involve drug testing!!! and my question is, " When do I start?" I own the funkiest house there on the front row...the only one with a palapa roof..we really like it there.....

dtbushpilot - 8-5-2008 at 02:05 PM

Then you must know Stan. Our first trip to Baja was about 15years ago (+-). We were towing a pop up camper behind our "79 Jeep. We camped on the beach, I knew it would be hot but didn't realize just how uncomfortable it would be without AC. Stan ran an extention cord out to the camper so that we could run a box fan....what a guy. As I recall thre were only 3 houses on the beach at that time. We stop there whenever we pass, weather camping or just to have a beer with Marco and Olivia....

Yes, the bird does bite but he doesn't bite Jill. She reaches for him unafraid and with confidence and he steps right up on her finger....I, on the other hand get the s&%@ bit out of me when I try it......they can smell fear.....dt

Terry28 - 8-5-2008 at 05:30 PM

Stanley Valentine, about 6'8 and very tan...yeah, he is our next door neighbor, and I agree a very nice man. Stanford all- american I think. He helped develope that place with Mike George.( Oliva's prior husband) Hence the name of the parrot. A pretty special place. Ever meet David Chaney?? T28

dtbushpilot - 8-6-2008 at 07:11 AM

Not sure if I know David Chaney or not. We know a lot of folks by sight but not name. I knew Mike pretty well, nice guy, quite a salesman. Went fishing, snorkeling and flying with him from time to time.....dt

Udo - 8-6-2008 at 08:07 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by dtbushpilot
Then you must know Stan. Our first trip to Baja was about 15years ago (+-). We were towing a pop up camper behind our "79 Jeep. We camped on the beach, I knew it would be hot but didn't realize just how uncomfortable it would be without AC. Stan ran an extention cord out to the camper so that we could run a box fan....what a guy. As I recall thre were only 3 houses on the beach at that time. We stop there whenever we pass, weather camping or just to have a beer with Marco and Olivia....

Yes, the bird does bite but he doesn't bite Jill. She reaches for him unafraid and with confidence and he steps right up on her finger....I, on the other hand get the s&%@ bit out of me when I try it......they can smell fear.....dt

Quote:

I think parrots may know who is and is not a bird person. I was told that George doesn't like males. But I keld him and played with him for 1/2 hour while waiting and drinking a margarita. Other baja racers have also told me of George's drawing blood. I think it's how you talk to the bird prior to offering a hand to pick him up. Additionally, many birds like to be picked up by one hand or the other. And if you offer up the wrong hand, you get nipped. If the bird at your offering a right hand, try the left.

Martyman - 8-6-2008 at 08:29 AM

Nice adventure Udo;
But...you should have stayed in Monterey Park!

dtbushpilot - 8-6-2008 at 10:02 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by udowinkler

Quote:

I have a feeling that I would have two bleeding hands instead of one....
You mentioned "other" Baja racers....are you a Baja racer too?...dt

Von - 8-6-2008 at 08:32 PM

How many miles is it bahia tortuga from bahia de los angeles?

Just curios might want to go if its scortion hot in BOLA my wife and two girls

might want some cooler weather so Im thinking of going to the pacific side

for a few days mmmmmm?

DianaT - 8-6-2008 at 08:52 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Von
How many miles is it bahia tortuga from bahia de los angeles?

Just curios might want to go if its scortion hot in BOLA my wife and two girls

might want some cooler weather so Im thinking of going to the pacific side

for a few days mmmmmm?

Please don't take this as abosolute, but more as approximate---we are not the types who keep exact miles, etc.

Bahia de Los Angeles to Guerrero Negro---the state line, according to one map is 124 miles.

It is about 45 miles to Vizcaino from Guerrero Nego,and then it is about 100 miles to Tortuga---not a fast 100 miles.

Now, if you want another cool get away and decide to try Bahia Asuncion, it usually takes us about 1 1/2 +/- hours from Vizcaino to Bahia Asuncion---it all depends.

Not really that far and it is a lot cooler!

Diane

Udo - 8-7-2008 at 08:27 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by dtbushpilot

Quote:

Originally posted by udowinkler

Quote:

I think parrots may know who is and is not a bird
person. I was told that George doesn't like males. But I keld him and played with him for 1/2 hour while waiting and drinking a margarita. Other baja racers have also told me of George's drawing blood. I think it's how you talk to the bird prior to offering a hand to pick him up. Additionally, many birds like to be picked up by one hand or the other. And if you offer up the wrong hand, you get nipped. If the bird at your offering a right hand, try the left.

I have a feeling that I would have two bleeding hands instead of one....
You mentioned "other" Baja racers....are you a Baja racer too?...dt

Quote:

I Used to be a Baja racer many moons ago, but now I have many friends who do the racing, plus I supply hardware for car building to some of them. Rod Hall, in Reno is among my friends.

dtbushpilot - 8-7-2008 at 09:02 AM

We (my son and I) have been racing off road motorcycles for some time but I don't compete much these days. We did race the 2007 Baja 1000 and had a great time and actually finished pretty well. Being the senior (read sponsor) member of the team I was chosen to ride the last leg into Cabo. What a hoot! We will be competing in the Vegas to Reno race later this month....dt