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Udo
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VIZCAINO TO BAHIA TORTUGA
This last February my wife Jana and I decided to bite the bullet and take the long road from Vizcaino to Bahia Tortuga. My last time there was over 30
years ago. The town has not changed much, and the only progress that shows was the addition of two Pemexes, one with diesel.
Many of you yellow tail fishermen, may be familiar with the place because they host a very large yellow tail tournament every year. Others may be
familiar with it as a respite bay for wary sailors. Punta Eugenio is the actual name of the point and I was fortunate enough to meet the great
grandson of the person whose name the point was named after. His name also was Eugenio. Everyone in this little town is involved in either fishing
from the bay, or lobster & octopus fishing from Playa Malarrimo.
The town prides itself in their honesty, and they brag about their being able to leave their keys in an open car and it still being there in the
morning. The town has nothing but very small dirt streets and most of them are one way. The town has a ten room motel for about $30.00 per night. The
rooms were adequate. There is a restaurant/bar across the street that also houses the hotel’s registration desk.
Playa Malarrimo is about 20 miles away via a paved and good dirt road. There are two fish camps there, but don’t be fooled by the shacks. The
fishermen live in Bahia Tortuga and most are well off. I was fortunate to get to know Eugenio and was invited to their house for coffee. Cozy on the
outside but nicely decorated inside complete with vitage photos of the town and kids, as well as numerous infamous glass fishing floats.
The road from Vizcaino is paved to the Bahia Asuncion turn-off, but the next 60 miles is graded dirt with many loose talcum powder deep spots and some
wash-outs. It’s the kind of road you either drive at 15mph or over 45mph. We drove it in a Toyota FJ and we chose the 50mph route with full air
pressure. The last 20 miles into Bahia Tortuga was nicely paved and they were feverishly paving the area to meet the blacktop at Bahia Asuncion
turnoff. I am guessing that it will fully be paved by summer 2009.
Here are a few photos of the more scenic spots. I will have to post this in two or three postings because after four photos from photobucket, the
posting just disappears. This is my fourth attempt at this posting, including having to save this writing in WORD and pasting it in the post.
The road from the Asuncion turnoff (the good part):
Our Motel
[Edited on 8-5-2008 by BajaNomad]
Udo
Youth is wasted on the young!
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Udo
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More photos of Bahia Tortuga:
Church at the bay
Looking at the pld cannery on the bay
The pier without railings
The cannery
pulling out a panga @ low tide
[Edited on 8-5-2008 by BajaNomad]
Udo
Youth is wasted on the young!
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DianaT
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Nice---getting the picture thing down! Good.
I really liked that church in Tortugas but with where it sits, it is difficult to get a full picture of it.
I am not real clear as to where the hotel is? And do you happen to know if they would accept dogs?
We went out there just on a day trip last January and do want to spend some more time there.
Also, next time, if you want a different route, take the dirt road from San Jose Del Castro to Bahia Asuncion---can get a little rough, but it is a
beautiful drive.
Thanks for the report and the pix.
Diane
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David K
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Thanks Udo!!!
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Cypress
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udowinkler, Thanks for the pictures and the report.
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Udo
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Diane,
Here is another photo os the church...cool design. I had taken so many church and mission photos in the past that I didn't feel I needed to add more
to my collection.
The motel is directly at the end of the paved road as you enter the town. Since it is the only two story building in town, it's hard to miss it.
Next time we are there, around whale season next year, we will try the dirt road you suggested, Diane.
Directly behind the church is a restaurant/bar...there is a fine line between Saturday night and Sunday morning!
Shows restaurant/bar and church in background.
[Edited on 8-5-2008 by BajaNomad]
Udo
Youth is wasted on the young!
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Udo
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One more photo:
The restaurant/bar/registration desk next to the motel. The famous walls (to the locals) depict the history of the town as well as great catches from
the ocean. This part of the wall also features all beers available in Mexico.
Udo
Youth is wasted on the young!
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DianaT
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Yes, we definitely want to spend more time there and exploring around. Since we were on a day trip and stopped at San Pablo, we basically went into
Tortugas, took a few pics, ate lunch and headed back to BA. It was winter time and we don't like driving those roads after dark!
What was the name of the Hotel---do you remember? I have heard there are two in town and one can be dog friendly.
Here are a couple of pix from the back road (short cut) to BA--just gives the idea of some of the scenry.
OH, one more question---do you run your FJ Crusier on regular gas??
Thanks
Diane
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bajalou
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Just to get it straight in my mind, are the pictures of the town of Bahia Tortuga? You mention Punta Eugenio which is a town at the point.
No Bad Days
\"Never argue with an idiot. People watching may not be able to tell the difference\"
\"The trouble with doing nothing is - how do I know when I\'m done?\"
Nomad Baja Interactive map
And in the San Felipe area - check out Valle Chico area |
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Bajaboy
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I don't recall the name of that restaurant but I've many great meals there. Nice people as well.
Zac
| Quote: | Originally posted by udowinkler
One more photo:
The restaurant/bar/registration desk next to the motel. The famous walls (to the locals) depict the history of the town as well as great catches from
the ocean. This part of the wall also features all beers available in Mexico.
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Udo
Elite Nomad
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Diane, I believe the motel's name was Motel rendon. I did not ask about dogs, but there were some local full timers that had two dogs in their room,
so I assume they are OK there.
The FJ, we have driven it about a year-and-a-half on regular, 38K miles, plus about 40 tanks of Mexican magna sin. 0 problems. Average about 20 MPG.
The suspension is absolutely superb. It was like driving a very high end SUV no matter what type of road we got into. The 4WD was flawless. When
needed, we could lock all four tires in 4WD on the very softest dirt, and it was unnecessary to drop the air presure. HOWEVER...I am a very
experienced off-roader and know the "off-road feeling" if you get what I mean. Just like a sailor can feel the wind when holding the sheets in one's
hand; which I have done also.
Bajalou...the photos are of the town of Bahia Tortuga. The point itself is a few miles to the west via a dirt road like the ones Diane has shown.
Generally there are no wash-outs on that road, but you have to consider hurricane rains that may reach the area as well as winter rains. Winter time
is fairly cold on the peninsula.
Udo
Youth is wasted on the young!
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Udo
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| Quote: | Originally posted by Bajaboy
I don't recall the name of that restaurant but I've many great meals there. Nice people as well.
| Quote: |
The restaurant's name was the same as the motel...RENDON. I gues it is someone's last name. The other motel was the Nancy at the east end of town.
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Zac
| Quote: | Originally posted by udowinkler
One more photo:
The restaurant/bar/registration desk next to the motel. The famous walls (to the locals) depict the history of the town as well as great catches from
the ocean. This part of the wall also features all beers available in Mexico.
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Udo
Youth is wasted on the young!
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DianaT
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Thanks for the info on the FJ. We have considered one as our Tundra has lots of miles---but our last 4WD Toyota had over 200,000 when it was stolen
and it was going strong.
We thought the "only use premium" might be not really necessary. We just wish Toyota would come out with something with better milage---something,
that is, that is good for Baja.
You said it can get cool in the winter? Yikes, with the wind, it gets down right COLD. Then again, I prefer the cold over the hot!
Diane
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Udo
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Diane,
As you already know, cold weather is somewhat relative. I live in snow country and we get about 21' (feet, not inches) a season, and when we come down
during the winters is is reasonably warm for us. But when I see the locals wearing the heaviest clothing they can get a hold of, plus gloves. It is
cold! (Although balmy, indian summer for us). We always bring our left-over clothing to leave at the church of whatever town we visit. Generally we
bring at least 4 large bags of clothes. When we come near Christmas, we bring toys & bikes. We are happy to recognize some or our old clothing
worn by the locals no matter where we end up. We loved Bahia Tortugas, and wish we were members of this group when we were there this past winter and
for sure we would have dropped by for a howdy in Asuncion. What a great hideaway. I hope they never pave your road!
When we retire in 5 years, we have 6 places in Baja Sur that we plan on rotating our stays while in our Monaco, and Asuncion is one of them!
Udo
Youth is wasted on the young!
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Terry28
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21 feet of snow in running springs???? What country is that in??
Mexico!! Where two can live as cheaply as one.....but it costs twice as much.....
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David K
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BAHIA TORTUGAS: APRIL, 1955
Photo from Howard Gulick...
[Edited on 8-5-2008 by BajaNomad]
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DianaT
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| Quote: | Originally posted by David K
Photo from Howard Gulick...
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Nice picture-- looks like the same pier as today.
Udo,
Yes, cold is relative, but 21 feet of snow in Running Springs? Maybe you are in a different Running Springs than I remember.
One thing we learned recently was that Tortugas used to be the main delegacion but then it changed to Bahia Asuncion.
Also, you mentioned that some of the fishermen seemed fairly well off. In Tortugas, the coop members can fish for both of the big money items,
lobster and abalone whereas in Bahia Asuncion and the other fishing villages on the peninsula they have to choose one or the other. Makes a big
difference in income.
Diane
[Edited on 8-5-2008 by BajaNomad]
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Iflyfish
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Great post. We have been curious about this place, it is on our bucket list!
Thanks,
Iflyfish
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Udo
Elite Nomad
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It is nice to see what an off-the-wall post will bring out our members.
Thanks for the old photo David K. This is what I feel that the Nomad site is supposed to be about. This photo gives me some perspective between my
trip of the early seventies and my last one.
I wish I could figure out (let's not get Diane started) how to convert my old Baja slides into digital photos so I can then downsize them to transfer
them to photobucket so I can post them on Nomads.
Diane:
our 21' of snow is an accumulation from the beginning of the season. The most I ever remember having snowed at one time was in 78 when we ended up
with 8'. But snow accumulation is kinda like a rain gauge. At the end of the season you push the cumulative total on the weather station and you get
what you get.
I was not aware that the co-op fishermen in Tortuga were different than
in other areas. (for those who don't know, fishermen generally turn in their catches to a broker[the co-op] who then sells it to markets,
restaurants, fish markets, etc. allover the peninsula). I did spend a couple of days getting to know these people and they did seem secretive about
their dealings and prices of the co-operative.
When I visited Eugenio's house, it was modest on the outside, but the inside was very nicely decorated. Mom's kitchen was four time bigger than mine.
The total square footage of his house was about 1600.
I think Eugenio also owns part of the cannery because he sells canned caracol with his name on it. He also gave me a half a dozen cans to take home.
One thing I have to introduce him to is brewed coffee. My next visit I'm bringing him a drip brewer, a coffee grinder, and roasted beans. |I'm the
type that buys green beans from Africa, and South America, roast them in a tumble roaster, and grinds the roasted beans in an Italian stone grinder
the night before the brewing. This family was very proud of their instant coffee and I did not say anything about their coffee or about mine. I'll
just bring the package as a surprise next time.
It is nice to know that some of us relative newcomers can still bring appreciated posts (Iflyfish) to the board.
Udo
Youth is wasted on the young!
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Sunman
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Great post, spectacular drive south from there to Asuncion, Hipolito, and Abreojos. Made the same trek last September which led to a great meeting
with Juan and Shari.
I remember spending a wonderful night out on playa Clambey as well as taking one of those "wrong turns" that led to the neatest, unexpected afternoon
with a family out at Puerto Escondido.
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