BajaNomad

Photo trip report- How We Spent our Summer Vacation - June 17 - Aug. 17 '08

Paulina - 8-24-2008 at 11:38 PM

Dern and I spent two months in Baja this summer. I've been fussing with photos and trying to sort out a trip report in my brain for the past week since we've been back. It was a fun filled, work filled, busy trip that went by way too quickly.

I'll start from the beginning, we left SLO headed for the house in Punta Banda after making a quick stop at our favorite toy stores, Squid Co. and West Marine. No problems with our visas at the San Ysidro border, nothing to declare, our Llave card still worked at the toll booths, we were on our way.

We got to Maneadero to find no Diesel fuel. We returned to the rip off station before the La Buff turn off and secured a spot in line where we waited 30 min. for our turn at the pumps. They were down to their last 100 liters when we pulled up to fill up.

A quick stop at El Recreo for dinner, then to Dern's favorite El Indio for road sodas, then on to Sharkeys to check in with Dennis.

We unpacked and repacked the truck that night, and headed for San Felipe the next morning.

At the turn off from Hwy 3 at El Chinero, we stopped at the military check point. The guys were in good spirits and invited us to join them for a cool slice of sandia. It was a nice break.

We headed into town and checked into El Capitan where we were meeting friends to go on a long range fishing trip on the Andrea Lynn. This was my first trip of this kind and would do it again in a heart beat. In fact, another trip is already scheduled for next summer with the same group of guys.



I hadn't been in San Felipe for over 25 years. I was glad to see my old friend Club Bar Miramar was still there.

Our guide "Chorty" was the best ever. Yes, we're towing in our buddy Todd in this shot.


Chorty quickly warmed up to our friend Ava and had her stapped to the engine in no time. She rode there for the remainder of our trip, until I found her swimming in the bait tank towards the end of the trip.


Ava got the looks, but we got the fish.


On our way home from San Felipe we stopped at the military checkpoint to return the favor of the sandia by giving them some Yellowtail filets for their dinner.

We donated our fish to Agua Viva in Cantu/Maneadero. Thanks to our friends Todd and Pat for pitching in some of their catch as well. They could have used more, as they feed over 150 mouths a day. Next year we'll fish harder!

After three days of sleeping in, trying to make up for lost sleep on the Andrea Lynn,



...and driving back and forth to Arjonas for spare motor parts that we had on order, we packed up again, this time heading for Bahia.

I never, ever, ever will get tired of this view:


I just have to get used to the power lines.



Our first week was spent moving out the old and moving in with the new.




Dern is returning mid Sept. to demolish the old decks, and begin new construction.



That first week was all business, getting the vast majority of our chores over with so we could get on with our summer-selves.

My favorite part of the day is around 5am. It's so cool then (temp wise, mid 80s). The first seagull starts fussing around 5:30. The wind is blowing slightly from the water, the sun is still sleeping behind the mountain. I love it.



I would lie there in bed, up on the deck and hear our neighbors walking by on their morning 5:30 walk. I kept thinking to myself, "I'll get up and surprise them with my walking shoes on tomorrow morning." It never happened.

Mary Ann ended up back at her place after car problems in Catavina. She and her dog Dedo would walk by in the mornings, sometimes stopping in for a visit.

Some mornings we took the panga out.



We got our fare share of fishing on the Andrea Lynn so we weren't jonesing to get out every day. We'd catch dinner and let the rest go.

One of the lucky ones:


Sometimes we'd visit Don Juan cove for a quick breakfast of fresh oysters.






On our way in the cove one day we came across a bottlenosed dolphin, looking after his buddy. I'll post more photos of this pair on another thread.




After fishing off of Piojo one morning, we headed for Smith Island to check out the Sperm Whale that was on the beach. On our way we spotted a Finback Whale so we stopped to take a look.



We were treated to quite a show, a lunch date of sorts.









When the whale moved on, the inflatable motored over and long story short, I reconnected with an old college friend from the early 1980's marine biology days in Bahia. Baja is a small world.

We motored over to the Sperm Whale. We first saw it when the Andrea Lynn had come into the bay a few weeks earlier, although I didn't take photos of it at that time.

It was still pretty "fresh", the rocks were quite slippery with whale goo.









I was hoping to find some teeth, but the "Island People" had beat everyone to them.

There were quite a few Whale Sharks in the bay. Most of them were in the south end, but there were a couple of days where there were at least two or three of them in front of town.











We visited with the Whale Sharks almost every day we took the panga out.



Pablo's daughter Nieves and I get a closer look:


Dern has his turn:


We would usually end our afternoons on the water by landing in front of Casa Diaz, pulling the panga up on the beach.



Dern would run in for a cold six pack of TKT and a bag of ice while I hung out with our Pelican friends.





After an easy beach retrieve we would clean up the boat, clean the fish and maybe take a siesta if we had time before heading in to town.

"Office hours" at Casa Diaz are around 4pm, give or take. We'd quad into town with Ava to meet the other office staff to lie about fishing, and talk about what ever else that should happen to cross the patio. It's how we keep up on the Coconut Telegraph.







We took a break to head over to the Pacific side to cool down a bit as well as to hit up the ATM in Guerrero Negro and buy another Rotoplas while we're there.







We stayed overnight at the Malarimo. Our dinner in their restaurant cost more than our hotel room. It didn't matter, the food was good, there was wireless internet in the bar, and the shower felt wonderful.



Our new Rotoplas ended up not fitting into the back of the truck, so we had to loosen the back half of the camper shell in order to shove it in for the ride back to Bahia.



We stopped at La Casita in Jesus Maria for Tortas to go.
Yum-o!




We returned to Bahia in time for the summer fiesta, soft bol, horse races, rodeo, dances, greased pole and pig wrestling. We only made it to the races and the rodeo. See my other posts in the trip reports section for photos.



Dern got a bad ear infection. He refused to go to the doctor until we returned from G.N. We drove into the clinic to find the doctor m.i.a. With the help of the new police in town, ( I jumped in his truck and he and I went searching), we tracked the doctor and his assistant down at Guillermo's. Dern was given a huge shot. The assistant only had to say, "Dude" to know where that shot was headed. He got a weeks worth of pain meds and 2 weeks worth of antibiotics for $20.00. The doctor looked so young that we named him Dougie Houser.

(Center with the sunglasses on)

We had dinner many times at Pablo's house as well as with our neighbor Phyllis and Jim. Mia and Tony had us over for dinner one fun night with the Ocana family.

We also visited with the ugliest rooster in town, who happens to live at the community market. We were told he's a "Churkey", a cross between a chicken and turkey. He hasn't any feathers on his neck, breast or on his meaty drumsticks. Poor guy.


No one had to eat crow this trip, although we were prepared should the need arise:


There were days that we hung out on Paradise Island:




And wrestled for 2 days with the old mining train turn table as we cleaned out the cactus garden. That monster is heavy.




The weather for the most part was bearable. The nights were in the mid 80s. We only took the ice chest to bed with us one night. The hottest it got was 110 in the shade. Counting falling stars is a fun way to fall asleep. The lightning show over the islands at night was non stop on some nights. We had rain, thunder and lightning too. One night the lightning felt so close that the hair on our arms felt like it was standing on end. That night we decided to move our bed down, off of the deck.

The sunsets were wonderful. One night in particular the sky was three colors; bright blue, purple and pink. Jimmy Buffett was playing a live concert on our satellite radio. Dern mixed two c-cktails that we took with us down to the water, which was 94 degrees. We waded in, enjoying our drinks, the sky, the music when out towards Horsehead Island a whale breached. Not only once but three times!

We saw it all.

What more could one ask for to end a perfect evening?



Dern tried to get Mary Ann's other car working but couldn't. We ended up towing her Trooper back to her garage from town. We fashioned a tire bumper on the front of our truck to gently push her Trooper and Jeep back into her garage for safe keeping.



She and her crew kept us company in the back seat of our truck on our way back to Punta Banda on Aug. 8th.


We caravaned up with Phyllis and Jim. Kevin arrived the next day to pick up Mary Ann. Jim and Phyllis stayed with us for the weekend before they headed north.

Dern spent the rest of the week finishing the wood windows on the house, visiting with our neighbors, unpacking and re-packing in preparation for heading back stateside.

We cleaned fish for the Punta Banda Yacht Club's fishing derby. That was a fun day.





On our last day in Baja we helped judge the chili cookoff at Gordo's in La Buff. Then it was time to head back to the states.

As always, it was too fast, most of my tan washed off in the shower, and I'm homesick for Baja already.



P<*)))>{

[Edited on 25-8-2008 by Paulina]

elgatoloco - 8-25-2008 at 01:12 AM

Nice trip report(s)! :dudette:

Thanks! :cool:

Great trip report

Keri - 8-25-2008 at 06:41 AM

Loved it sometime I want to try swimming with the whale sharks looks like a lot of fun. You got some great photos . I think Marv is looking for some of the sharks for his calendar this year. Glad you guys had such a great time and thanks for sharing it with us,k:yes::yes:

Ken Bondy - 8-25-2008 at 06:56 AM

What a fantastic report!! I scrolled through it several times, savored every photo and every word. I am living vicariously through you guys Paulina y Dern. Thanks sooo much for taking the time to put this together. ++Ken++

PS: I was on the Andrea Lynn for my white shark trip to Isla Guadalupe last year (out of Ensenada). Funky old boat, nice crew.

Cypress - 8-25-2008 at 07:03 AM

Paulina, What an adventure!!:bounce:Thanks.

Bajalover - 8-25-2008 at 07:08 AM

Paulina, ONE AWESOME trip. Wow. Can't beleive the power lines. Last time I visited BOLA they were putting up the metal sails monument at the cross roads.
Seeing your report makes me want to can everything I'm doing and head to Baja.
Wow!!!

David K - 8-25-2008 at 07:10 AM

Paulina, you get an A+++ for that trip report!!

Thanks for taking us Nomads along!!

baja-spirit - 8-25-2008 at 07:11 AM

Thanks for sharing. Where was the picture of you sitting in the rock circle at? I haven't seen that before. Your pictures make me anxious to go. But have to wait until the middle of Sept... thank you so much for taking the time to share your trip with us....

Bajagypsy - 8-25-2008 at 11:36 AM

looks like you had a wonderful time, I'm counting the days till we can get back. Loved the whale shark pictures, we got to snorkle with them last year.

Don't you hate it when your tan washes off, I always tell Mr. Gypsy, I'm not having a shower, till I'm back in Baja!!:lol:

Yakfishing - 8-25-2008 at 03:15 PM

Paulina,
WOW - great write up.
Thanks for taking the time to document it all and share it with us.

When are you headed back?

El Camote - 8-25-2008 at 09:07 PM

Paulina, wonderful! Just like being there. I just showed Charlie the whaleshark pics before he went to sleep - I think he's going to dream about them.

Paulina - 8-25-2008 at 10:13 PM

Baja-spirit, that was over on the Pacific side.

Yak- I most likely won't be back to Bahia until New Years, but Dern is heading back in a couple of weeks.

El Camote, give that big boy a big whale shark hug from me. I bet he'd LOVE to see one in person...

Thank you for all the kind replies, they are appreciated.

P<*)))>{

David K - 8-26-2008 at 07:25 AM

Quote:
Originally posted by baja-spirit
Thanks for sharing. Where was the picture of you sitting in the rock circle at? I haven't seen that before. Your pictures make me anxious to go. But have to wait until the middle of Sept... thank you so much for taking the time to share your trip with us....


Last year, Cardon posted several photos, a map and directions of/to The Arch at 'The Wall', look here: http://forums.bajanomad.com/viewthread.php?tid=16663

[Edited on 8-26-2008 by David K]

Paulina - 8-26-2008 at 12:46 PM

From the link David provided:

Quote:
Originally posted by oladulce
...You know, pot smokers always seem to find the best arrowheads and sharks teeth because they can stare at the ground for hours. That might be a clue to this artisan(s) also !


Upon closer inspection of this oven at The Wall, we found exactly what oladulce was talking about to be true.



Arrowhead points and scraps were littered on the oven rocks, obviously collected by someone with the ability to stare at the ground for hours...



P<*)))>{

vivaloha - 8-26-2008 at 02:45 PM

Ahhh...your text and photos just took us right back to the source...
Its a lifestyle down there and you guys were living it up!
Thanks so much for sharing your trip and photos with all of us!

Much Aloha to you and th Dern Man!

Vivaloha

Natalie Ann - 8-26-2008 at 02:50 PM

Brava!!! Excellent trip report, Paulina.

Nena

DianaT - 8-26-2008 at 02:54 PM

Enjoyed this very much ----thanks.

Diane

tripledigitken - 8-26-2008 at 03:13 PM

Great report and photos, especially the crow on the fork.:lol::lol::lol:

Ken

Bajaboy - 8-26-2008 at 04:38 PM

You obviously know how to make the most of Baja...my type of trip.

Zac

aha baja - 8-26-2008 at 09:46 PM

Hola PyD Great trip photos! I recognise the ravens head on a fork! Nice to know it found a new home. Maybe you should name your digs " Racho de la Cabeza Raven":lol:Looks like the place is really begining to shape up.Saw the guy in the doorway of the old "casa con llantes" Quen es. Also really liked the new "floaty toy" youv'e aquired! Oysters, muy delicioso! Call you soon... still have your Mexican Bird Of Paradice I need to drop by. Hasta out.........

BAJACAT - 8-26-2008 at 10:38 PM

wOW thats what I call a trip report, thanks PAULINA

CaboRon - 8-30-2008 at 06:33 AM

Paulina,

Thanks for a great trip report ....

And the photos were awesome !!

CaboRon

oladulce - 8-31-2008 at 05:17 PM

Thoroughly enjoyed your report Paulina.

Favorite picture: Dern petting his spotted buddy.

Favorite story: Wading in 94° water sipping c-cktails after dark while a whale breaches in the distance. You can't make up that kind of stuff.

Sorry I missed: Seeing a whale shark, let alone swimming with them!

Not sorry I missed: 110° and the smelly whale on the beach.

CasadeSuenos - 9-3-2008 at 11:23 PM

LOVED the report.....i am sure our 10-2 week trip will sail by. You in SLO county CA??? that's where i'm from:) spending the nite manana Thurs in Pizmo Beach. Plan to head south of ze border Friday am to make it deep into Baja hopefully San Qunitin or El Rosario and then Mulege by Sat. or we may stroll a leetle slower. Thanx for sharing! fabulous-o!!!!!!!!!

Skipjack Joe - 9-9-2008 at 04:53 PM

Somehow I missed this report. Enjoyed it very much. It's very Paulinaesque. Examples: raven head on a fork, the ever present Ava, and the empty truck with waves rolling across it's internals.

The whale sharks are something I really want to see someday. Ditto for the finback whale, but that is more unlikely.

All in all, I'm jealous.

Quote:
Originally posted by Paulina
I never, ever, ever will get tired of this view:




I never do either. I'm sorry to see the power lines as they weren't there when we came by. But there were signs of changes.


Quote:
Originally posted by Paulina





Didn't realize that Fitzcarraldo had made his way to baja:

fitzcarraldo.jpg - 35kB

Paulina - 9-9-2008 at 09:09 PM

Igor,

You need to come down next summer, in August. The whale sharks will be there as well as the Finbacks. The feeding whale that I photographed this summer was in the exact same place we saw one feeding last summer. I believe I posted photos of that one last year. They're there, we just need to get you there too.

Thanks for the smile regarding the Fitzcarraldo. Those boats, they have a mind of their own to go where they want to go...over hills, over islands...you never know. As long as I don't eat a rubber oyster at her stern I'll be happy.

Now if you show up in a white linen suit and straw hat, that will be the icing on the cake. I might even let you take a photo next to my raven head.

P<*)))>{

[Edited on 10-9-2008 by Paulina]

marv sherrill - 9-10-2008 at 02:40 PM

Awesome Paulina - missed you again - Next time stop by - it looks like the place is coming around! We're heading out Friday - where was the sperm whale carcass located? We were all over the place and never saw it - thanks - Marv

Paulina - 9-10-2008 at 03:05 PM

Hi Marv,

We'll catch each other one of these trips. Dern was just there a couple of days ago, planning to return on Monday the 15th. It sounds like he'll just miss you too.

The sperm whale is on the north/west side of Smith, I believe the first cove south of the tip, but not as far down as the reversing water fall.

P<*)))>{

Wiles - 9-10-2008 at 03:15 PM

Paulina

You just put a GIANT smile on my face. Great report. Muchas, muchas gracias.

p.s. I did gringe a bit with seeing the power lines. Change is good, but with those changes comes the loss of so much that made Bahia such a special place.

Skipjack Joe - 9-10-2008 at 04:07 PM

Paulina,

Are the whale sharks and the whale a summer phenomena? We missed them when Alex and I were there (late june / early july).

We have trouble with the heat in BOLA during the July-Sep time frame. I think being in a camper is hotter than in your set up. I recently came across an air conditioning unit made by Coleman that runs on batteries. It said you have to keep feeding it ice somehow and it creates a 'cold mist'. Have you heard of or tried something like that? It would be great to sleep at night on the roof somehow but that's not one of our options.

Ken Cooke - 9-10-2008 at 06:13 PM

Great photography! :yes:I loved this trip report!:spingrin:

Paulina - 9-10-2008 at 07:55 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by Skipjack Joe
Paulina,

Are the whale sharks and the whale a summer phenomena? We missed them when Alex and I were there (late june / early july).

We have trouble with the heat in BOLA during the July-Sep time frame. I think being in a camper is hotter than in your set up. I recently came across an air conditioning unit made by Coleman that runs on batteries. It said you have to keep feeding it ice somehow and it creates a 'cold mist'. Have you heard of or tried something like that? It would be great to sleep at night on the roof somehow but that's not one of our options.


The whale sharks are definately a summer time attraction. The later in the summer, the better. I'm not sure what to tell you about the whales. I've seen them there year round, but being that we spend the most time on the water during the summer, that might be why we usually see them in larger numbers during that time of the year. Maybe someone with more experience/knowledge of whales can jump in here.

As far as the whale feeding spot, (the southern end of Smith), there must be an upwelling there or something that makes it a popular spot for the hungry guys? Don't know for sure, other than that's where we often see them.

We spend 99.9% of our summer living out of doors. I think we only use our trailers to sneak something out of the fridge or to powder our noses. Right now we have a deck that we sleep on, but as of next week it's going to be torn down.

When my kids were little we used to sleep inside with the air cond. running off of the generator, but we haven't used it in years.

I've never heard of the Coleman unit you mention. I think having to keep that much ice on hand during the summer would be difficult and expensive, and the town does run out.

We are thinking about hooking box fans up to our solar set up next summer for those nights when the breeze off the water doesn't bless us with it's company. Hopefully we'll have a newer/bigger deck by then so you and Alex can join us.

P<*)))>{

Diver - 9-10-2008 at 08:37 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by Skipjack Joe
I recently came across an air conditioning unit made by Coleman that runs on batteries. It said you have to keep feeding it ice somehow and it creates a 'cold mist'. Have you heard of or tried something like that?



Here is a picture;
You fill a cooler with ice and it has a fan that blows the air through.
$40 if you think it will do any good.
.

KoolerAire_Unit1.gif - 16kB

Paulina - 9-10-2008 at 09:24 PM

Diver,

It's both an ice chest AND an air conditioner? On really hot nights we take our ice chest to bed so we can dip our sheets into it. If it could sit there and blow cool air on us at the same time, we'd be in heaven!

P<*)))>{

Skipjack Joe - 9-10-2008 at 10:47 PM

Yes I just looked it up myself. How long would the ice last in BOLA if you're sucking in August air? Maybe 1/2 hour?

Perhaps a large fan would be better. Found one by O2 with a 10 inch blade that runs on 8D batteries. That should generate a decent breeze. On the other hand last August I was in the internet kiosk with all the fans going. It was unbearable.

Perhaps it's just something you have to just get used to it. I used to go on those Tony Reyes trips myself, Paulina, in late July. There was no air conditioning. You just slept on the top bunks on the upper deck. And it wasn't too bad, actually. The crew never slept in their cabins. All were on deck. We would sit at night under the lights and fish for anything that came to our floating island. The stars were so clear and distinct. I'm rambling ...

guero_con_taco - 12-6-2008 at 12:04 PM

Wow, great TR. Those photos of the whale sharks blew me away. Thanks for posting!